Vinson(4892) - Page 16
New group to Antarctica stays in Punta Arenas, waiting for depart
Vinson.
Igor Grishkov came in this Chilean city the first from this group. He should go with Alex Abramov to the highest volcanoes of the Antarctic continent, Mount Sidley. Then he, with Andrei Belov (a pilot of IL-76), met the rest of the group, ...
Igor Grishkov came in this Chilean city the first from this group. He should go with Alex Abramov to the highest volcanoes of the Antarctic continent, Mount Sidley. Then he, with Andrei Belov (a pilot of IL-76), met the rest of the group, going on Mount Vinson. This is Michael Karisalov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Nikolai Stepanenko, Mikhail Turovsky.. In this group, all members are experienced hikers and climbers, so they are easy to learn in this southern city, visited penguins, well, the best local restaurants. As long as everything goes according to plan and perhaps a few hours later they were already fly to Antarctica.
Alex Abramov with Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri rest on the base camp of Union Glacier. In warm and comfortable conditions, they are preparing for a new challenge, flight to the enigmatic volcano Sidley. Alex Abramov have a lot of talking with the guides from other companies. So Abramov is discussed with Vern Tejas a new idea: to sail to Antarctica on a yacht, then to ascend the Erebus and then go by ski to the South Pole. Cool idea !
Maxim Bogatyrev remains at the base camp of Vinson, protets tents and waits for an arrival of friends. .
Everything is in order in Antarctica, we congratulate Maxim Bogatyreva with Seven Summits !
Vinson.
January 6, Alexander Abramov, passed the information from the base Union Glacier .. The Polish part of the group had already flown to the mainland. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri are resting on the base. They are waiting ...
January 6, Alexander Abramov, passed the information from the base Union Glacier .. The Polish part of the group had already flown to the mainland. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri are resting on the base. They are waiting for a new group, which is scheduled to be flown the 10 th of January and ready to fly to the area of the volcano Sedley. Maxim Bogatyrev stayed at the base camp of Vinson.
By the way, we congratulate Maxim Bogatyrev with a completion of the project Seven Summits! We wish him to replenish his collection of summits, climb its for second and third time, reach Carstensz, and the Poles!
Our international team climbed Vinson!
Vinson.
Actually, it is the entire message. We are very pleased and we congratulate our guides Alexander Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev. And the team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala ...
Actually, it is the entire message. We are very pleased and we congratulate our guides Alexander Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev. And the team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all – Poland), Crina “Coco” Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimeri (Italy).
We hope that all arrive safely at the Union Glacier Base, and then their ways will separate. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri will fly to the other side of Antarctica, to climb the highest volcano of the continent Mount Sidley. Maxim Bogatyrev will our next group on Vinson and the Polish team will fly home.
Good luck!
Alex Abramov: New Year Party among the snow
South Pole.
Hello! It is Alex Abramov, from Antarctica. Beautiful weather. December, 31 has been changed to January 1, 2011 ... Yesterday we flew to the base camp of Mount Vinson ... Rangers from ALE company gave us a super holiday party. They laid a ...
Hello!
It is Alex Abramov, from Antarctica. Beautiful weather. December, 31 has been changed to January 1, 2011 ... Yesterday we flew to the base camp of Mount Vinson ... Rangers from ALE company gave us a super holiday party. They laid a table just on the snow, out of tents. Can you imagine: the New Year party, which takes place in the sun, among the white snows of Antarctica, among the mountains. View of the Vinson, the weather is pretty ... Vern Tejas played harmonica. All danced who could, we drank champagne, bottles of 6-7, then throw the whiskey in the pot. Here are a few teams: Alpine Ascents, Adventure Consultants, International Mountain Guides ... In general, all Americans, and only we – not Americans. We have a team of Polish, Russian, Romanian and one Italian. Well, in general, international team, mostly talking in Russian, English, Polish, Romanian and Italian .. In general, all are very happy. And tomorrow we're going to move to High Camp. Well, in general, we have fun here ...
Super.
Goodbye!
Photos from 20056 expedition
Alexander Abramov from the Union Glacier: partings and meetings
Vinson.
Hello, today the 29 th of December. Ilyushin came ... Some of our clients has departed, a part of our team, part of the Ukrainian, has remained in Antarctica ... to work on their plans. Now a new group arrives, I'll be working with them on ...
Hello, today the 29 th of December. Ilyushin came ... Some of our clients has departed, a part of our team, part of the Ukrainian, has remained in Antarctica ... to work on their plans. Now a new group arrives, I'll be working with them on the Mount of Vinson, two weeks. January 10th expedition to the highest volcano of Antarctica Mount Sidley will starts. Good mood, I was able to bathe, wash, even socks and underwear ... some... So, life is good. In Antarctica, the weather is fine, the sun is shining, no wind. Everything is super.
Goodbye!
Good luck!
Happy New Year, Happy New Year!
The new team arrived. Coco cried: her dad stayed on the continent, now his role should be to take on Alex Abramov.
Thу Team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all – Poland), Crina Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimeri (Italy)
Unloaded, settled and began to celebrate the anniversary of our second gude Maxim Bogatyrev.
Maxim Bogatyrev turned 35 !
We send heartfelt congratulations to him ! We wish to successfully climb to the top of the seventh!
Max - a real hero, a great climber, guide, big fan of the sport, bright and strong personality.
Good health and good luck to you!
The flight must be 29th of December
Vinson.
The management of ALE announced that a flight of the aircraft from Punta Arenas to Antarctica will be held on December 29. On the eve of the last of team members arrived in this Chilean city. It is "the best rating (18 points) of the ...
The management of ALE announced that a flight of the aircraft from Punta Arenas to Antarctica will be held on December 29. On the eve of the last of team members arrived in this Chilean city. It is "the best rating (18 points) of the members of the 7 Summits Club” 58-year-old Italian, Mario Trimeri. & Summits Club international team led by Maxim Bogatyrev finalized preparations and awaits commands.
Good luck to you !
Group members: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all Poland), Crina Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimer (Italy). Guides: Alex Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev.
Alex Abramov: a call from the summit of Vinson
Vinson.
We stay on the highest peak in Antarctica: Alexander Abramov, Dmitry Kolotiy and Andrey Podolyan. We have a strong, powerful team, climbing was done very quickly. The weather is perfect, I never have seen such weather on the Vinson. Now ...
We stay on the highest peak in Antarctica: Alexander Abramov, Dmitry Kolotiy and Andrey Podolyan. We have a strong, powerful team, climbing was done very quickly. The weather is perfect, I never have seen such weather on the Vinson. Now we're going to undress from the waist up for making pictures. Undress completely is impossible because of the harness. Ten minutes later Donetsk team will begin to approach. For Sergei Kovalev it will be the completion of the program "Seven Summits". This evening and at night we hope to celebrate this event already in the base camp. We have there 4 bottles of vodka. On the way we collect intermediate camps, and leave all equipment at the base camp for the next our group. We want to fly the 28 th to the Union Glacier and we have a chance ...
Best regards !
Thank you for your support!
Photos from the expeditions of previous years
Alex Abramov: Great mood and excellent weather in the High Camp…
Vinson.
Hello ! Today, 26th of December. The full team climbed to the High Camp and now ... the main thing is, that we all got it, and tomorrow in the morning, at 9 a.m., we start for climbing the summit. To raise flags sponsors on the ...
Hello !
Today, 26th of December. The full team climbed to the High Camp and now ... the main thing is, that we all got it, and tomorrow in the morning, at 9 a.m., we start for climbing the summit. To raise flags sponsors on the top, who has this flags. Well, in general, the weather is excellent, the mood is perfect, we ate, drank ... well, not without it…
Dima showed enthusiasm, broke a saw and two shovels, digging up our tents from ... from the snow ....
Well, in general, everything is OK, tomorrow at 9 a.m., we go. The mood is great. And 27 th of December we want immediately to get down to the base camp. We hope to fly next day to the Union Glacier.
Bye, everyone !
Good luck !
Meanwhile, a new Antarctic team came to Punta Arenas ...
Sidley.
A young Romanian climber Crina (Coco) Popescu and her father Ovidiu arrived December 26 in Punta Arenas, with a day late. The same day, the Polish part of our new team got (also adventure) to this Chilean town. This Zygmunt Wladyslaw ...
A young Romanian climber Crina (Coco) Popescu and her father Ovidiu arrived December 26 in Punta Arenas, with a day late. The same day, the Polish part of our new team got (also adventure) to this Chilean town. This Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala. Such is the international composition of our next team, that goes to the highest peak in Antarctica. A guide of 7 Summits Club Max Bogatyrev looked for all them in the local airport two days. In the sky of the planet happen terrible things, flights delayed and extended, this information does not manage to reach. So Max spent a lot of time at the airport before he could tell us "all fed, put to sleep. " Prior to departure of the ice continent, the group will be at least three days. To purchase products and take a course "antarkticologia" in the company of ALE...
Coco and Ovidiu Popescu
Alex Abramov: A quiet Christmas night ended with a crazy morning
South Pole.
When I woke up in the morning, it rattled in the tent. When I looked out, I saw as our kitchen tent was dropped. A morning in the Low Camp usually starts at 12 o'clock, when the sun comes out. At 12 a.m. we get a weather forecast for the ...
When I woke up in the morning, it rattled in the tent. When I looked out, I saw as our kitchen tent was dropped. A morning in the Low Camp usually starts at 12 o'clock, when the sun comes out. At 12 a.m. we get a weather forecast for the next day, usually for a couple of days. So, this morning started badly, it was a hurricane ...
I called all my boys and from 12 a.m. to 4 p.m., we built snow walls. The wind was blowing very strong, ripped shovels from our hands. By lunchtime, when we built all these walls of snow, the wind completely calmed down. We started to think about tomorrow, how we go to the High Camp, and the next day to climb to the top of Vinson. But now it is evening, and again the blizzard began. According to the forecast, tomorrow we expected a weakening of wind and the next day - perfect, perfect weather. It will be December 27.
We sit together in the kitchen tent, laughing. The wind howled outside the tent. We hope that tomorrow the weather will improve. And probably the day after tomorrow we will go to the top of the Mount Vinson.
So, wait for messages from Antarctica and not get bored.
Bye!
Alexander Abramov: On Christmas night, the weather miraculously established
Vinson.
27/12/2010 Hello! December 24 - the day before Christmas night. In the morning there was a terrible storm, a hurricane roared overhead, on the ridge. The wind reached a speed of 80-100 km per hour. Within days, there was no connection ...
27/12/2010 Hello! December 24 - the day before Christmas night. In the morning there was a terrible storm, a hurricane roared overhead, on the ridge. The wind reached a speed of 80-100 km per hour. Within days, there was no connection with the High Camp, where seven people left. We all worried, but today, at 12 a.m. they came to a connection. They said that there are a few broken tents, one tent flew away. But in general, everything is OK.
When we were in the High Camp and went down, I joked that at Christmas the weather must be good. And now, the Christmas night, at 2 a.m. the peace was established between heaven and earth. Deathly silence, the sun is shining. Here in Antarctica, the sun always shines. Just perfect weather, perfect visibility. Deathly silence. Probably tomorrow, seven climbers who spent several days in the High Camp, go on climb. We also have a plan. Tomorrow morning, we will hear the weather forecast, and if all goes well, tomorrow we leave for night in the High Camp. And the next day, probably December 26, we plan to climb Mount Vinson.
God help us !
Goodbye !
Coco Popescu leaves on Antarctica expedition
Vinson.
Tomorrow, 26th of December, we are waiting for her in Punta Arenas. Crina Coco Popescu will see her dream come true on Christmas Eve when she will leave for Punta Arenas to complete her most important expedition till now, „Antarctica ...
Tomorrow, 26th of December, we are waiting for her in Punta Arenas. Crina Coco Popescu will see her dream come true on Christmas Eve when she will leave for Punta Arenas to complete her most important expedition till now, „Antarctica 2010-2011”.
Crina will begin the new year by climbing the Mount Vinson (1-10 January 2011), then she’ll take the Romanian flag on the Sidley’s peak (14-23 January 2011). On 22nd of February she will return to Bucharest as „the youngest woman to complete the Volcano Seven Summits”. We are crossing our fingers for her and we’ll wait for her to come back home.
You will be keep you updated with news from the expedition on the Journal section. But, just so you know how will the Coco’s life adventure will look, here’s the schedule of the „Antarctica 2010-2011”:
24th of December: departure from Bucharest, on the route Paris – Atlanta – Santiago de Chile – Punta Arenas;
26th of December: meeting at Punta Arenas with the organizer’s agents, 7 Summits Club and Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions;
27th of December: expedition’s briefing with the agents of 7 Summits Club and Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions;
28th of December: the equipment’s verification;
29th of December: the take-off on the route Punta Arenas – Patriot Hills (the base camp in Antarctica);
1st of January: flight with an easy airplane Cesna, from the base camp in Patriot Hills to the base camp in Mt. Vinson;
1st of January – 10th of January: climbing on Mt. Vinson;
11th of January: coming back to the base camp in Patriot Hills;
13th of January: close up flight in Mt. Sidley, departure from Patriot Hills camp;
14 th of January – 23th of January: close up march, ski and climbing on Mt. Sidley;
24th of January: coming back to the base camp in Patriot Hills;
25th of January: coming back to Punta Arenas (Chile);
30th of January: departure from Punta Arenas to Santiago de Chile;
1st of February – 18th of February: Climbing on Ojos del Salado (Atacama), acclimatization program for Everest (the climbing is due for spring 2011);
20th of February: departure from Chile;
22nd of February: arrival to Bucharest
Antarctica will be the first serious expedition without his father
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My name is Crina Imola Popescu but everyone knows me as Crina COCO Popescu. My dear friends simply call me COCO. I ‘m 16 years old and I’m a climber.
I was born in Rasnov, a town close to Brasov and I have been climbing mountains since I was 6. At first I climbed around my hometown: the Bucegi Mountains and Postavarul. Then I’ve wanted to climb higher mountains…and I did it. When I was 11, I went to the Alps and climbed the 4000 m high Dente del Giante. Next there were other dreams accomplished: the Olympus, Ararat and Mont Blanc.
At only 12, I went for the first time in Nepal on Kalapatar. When I first saw the Himalayan giants, I fell in love with them: I realized that I want more. Slowly, what was more of a hobby turned into a real passion. At 13 years old I have seen my dream accomplished on Kazbek in the Caucasus, Damavand and Alam Kuh in Iran.
I didn’t have only successful attempts. The failures convinced me that, without passion and efforts, you can’t reach for the highest high, both in life and on mountains. An important lesson that I’ve learned was when I first attempt to climb on Aconcagua and a cold hold me back. From that moment on, I learned that precaution must represent an objective for me in order to continue my dream.
Searching for new objectives, I found out about Seven Summits and Volcanic Seven Summits. I said to myself: this is what I want to do!
In 2008, when the Altitude Mountain Club was born, my dream spread its wings. In late 2008 I went on the Ojos del Salado in the Atacama, the world’s highest volcano. In January 2009 I was on Aconcagua – the South American giant. They were followed by Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus. I already had three peaks of the Seven Summits and four of Volcanic Seven Summits. For these achievements I received the title of “Master of Sports”, a great honor for me.
In autumn 2009 I received a new lesson that prepared me for the future: I had decided to climb Cho Oyu, but due to an imperfect acclimatization we decided to descend from an altitude of 6700m, putting safety before everything. In January 2010 I went to Oceania where I climbed the mount Kosciuszko, Carstensz Pyramid and Giluwe. In June 2010 I climbed Pico de Orizaba in Mexico and McKinley in Alaska, highest volcano and summit in North America.
What I've climbed so far...
From December 2010 to February 2011 I’ll be in South America and Antarctica. I’ll climb on Vinson and Sidley and in April 2011 I’ll be on Everest.
Until now I have already conquered five peaks of the Seven Summits and six peaks of the Volcanic Seven Summits. Plus other six records in alpinism.
I wouldn’t have succeeded this performance if my father hadn’t been extremely supportive with me. He imbued me with his passion for the mountains and made me fall in love with nature. I don’t have enough words to thank my parents for their support and all their efforts. But I’m trying hard to make them proud.
Many thanks to all the people from the Club! Because of them, I now have the hope to fulfill my dream: I want to become the youngest woman to climb the Seven Summits and Volcanic Seven Summits.
Alex Abramov and his team went down to the Low Camp
Vinson.
Hello! Now at 9 pm on Chile, the 22-th of December. Our team went down to the Low Camp. The weather at the top is bad, the forecast for tomorrow is worse than for today, and the next day - worse than tomorrow. Therefore, a minimum to 24-th, ...
Hello! Now at 9 pm on Chile, the 22-th of December. Our team went down to the Low Camp. The weather at the top is bad, the forecast for tomorrow is worse than for today, and the next day - worse than tomorrow. Therefore, a minimum to 24-th, our team will be in the Low Camp. We did not reached the summit of Vinson, as none of the climbers, who came with us. And now 90% of climbers who pretend to climb Mount Vinson stay in the Low Camp. We have just a small chance in short-term, up to 29 th December. The weather is really bad at the top, a very strong wind. We have taken a short attempt to climb today. But failed. Very cold, that is, you begin to feel cold just 15-20 minutes after leaving the tent and the likelihood of frostbite was very high today.
Wind speed was of 20-25 knots now - it's approximately 40 kms per hour, tomorrow - 30 knots - it is somewhere 60 km / h .... The day after tomorrow 40 knots - sometimes 80 km / h ...
That is a very severe frost and strong wind. So we sit down, but ready to leave if the weather suddenly…..
Alexander Abramov: climbing process on Mount Vinson goes on
Vinson.
Alexander Abramov, from Antarctica (the message was sent in the late evening on December, 19 at Chilean time). 15th of December our team have returned to the base by a plane, from the pole to the Union Glacier camp. On December, 16 a new ...
Alexander Abramov, from Antarctica (the message was sent in the late evening on December, 19 at Chilean time). 15th of December our team have returned to the base by a plane, from the pole to the Union Glacier camp. On December, 16 a new team arrived: Anatoly Ezhov, Andrey Podolyan, Dmitry Kolotiy. And an Ukrainian team led by Sergei Kovalev, with whom we will work in parallel. And literally on the same evening, 16th of December we went by plane to Vinson Base Camp. It was too much overloaded freight this day, as a result, Anatoly Yezhov felt pain in his back. On December 17 the whole team, except Ezhov, went on acclimatization outing with sleds.
... Yesterday, the 18-th, we tried to get to the assault (High) camp and pull a part of our materials. But the weather was bad, we did not succeed, and we left part of materials on the way. We made a hole and left it there. Today we have reached in the high camp and left half of materials needed for climbing assault .... Link was broken
Richard Parks starts for his challenge, but he is still in the Union Glacier
South Pole.
FORMER rugby star Richard Parks has made it to the Antarctic in the first leg of his mammoth challenge to climb the highest peaks in all seven continents and reach the three poles in seven months. Parks left Cardiff Bay on ...
FORMER rugby star Richard Parks has made it to the Antarctic in the first leg of his mammoth challenge to climb the highest peaks in all seven continents and reach the three poles in seven months. Parks left Cardiff Bay on December 12, flying to Punta Arenas in Chile for a connecting flight to Patriot Hills, Antarctica, where he began his trek to the South Pole on Thursday. On Friday he made it to the Union Glacier base camp with temperatures at minus 12, and is expected to reach the South Pole around December 27.
He will spend Christmas Day trekking in temperatures of minus 30 and head winds of up to 30 knots.
Parks will then have to camp out at the pole over the New Year, because he has to reach all nine peaks and poles in the same calendar year for his challenge to count as a world first. Parks aims to raise £1 million for Marie Curie Cancer Care with his record-breaking attempt.
After the South Pole, he will across the Antarctic to climb Mount Vinson, which stands at 4,897 metres.
The seven summits Parks will tackle over the next seven months are Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Aconcagua in Argentina, South America, Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa, Carstensz in Indonesia, Australasia, Mount Everest in Nepal, Asia, Denali in the USA, and Elbrus in Russia representing Europe.
The three poles are the North Pole, the South Pole, and the summit of Everest. You can follow Parks at
737challenge.com
The latest update from Richard in Antarctica
19TH DECEMBER 2010
Weather bad, low visibility, we can’t fly for another 2 days to 89 degrees to start. On a trial expedition for 2 nights around Union Glacier base camp. All good.
17TH DECEMBER 2010
In Union Glacier base camp. One guy has dropped out already with frostbite, now only 4 of us. Here at Union Glacier base camp its -12 but at 89 degrees south its -30 with a 30 knot plus headwind.
16TH DECEMBER 2010
We're on standby to fly today, waiting for the weather window. We have to be ready to leave in half an hour. More patience and waiting!!
I'm in a team of 4 to ski to the pole. Facts - the pole is on NZ time, GMT +13 and Union Glacier is Chile time gmt-4! The average temp in the last degree over the last week ahs been -26 degrees C and at Union Glacier it's been between -15 and -5c air temp. The pole is at around 3000m so we have to battle altitude acclimatisation when we get dropped at 89 degrees. Frostbite of the face is the highest risk as we're skiing into a head wind, which can reduce the wind chill considerably, down to the -40 region! That combined with the sticky dry snow and heavy loads is why physically it's so tough - a marathon a day!
15TH DECEMBER 2010
I've negotiated all the airports, transfers, customs, time differences, de-briefing meetings, bag weighing, breakfasts and an almost complete lack of Spanish to be here in Punta ready to fly on to Antarctica tomorrow, weather window permitting!
I've met 2 of my 3 other team mates for the last degree, the fourth is still stuck in Santiago waiting for his lost gear! They're cool.
I had my de-brief today which was awesome and has sharpened my mind somewhat. To be sat in a room with so many great explorers, mountaineers and scientists was really cool. I've met some old and new faces already.
All my gear is sweet, in fact I'm 6kgs UNDER my allowed limit on to Antarctica which is refreshing in light of my lucky escape at Heathrow!
Speak soon
Rich.
Our congratulations: Quebecer Franсois Langlois conquers the Seven Summits
Elbrus.
A member of 7 Summits Club François Langlois has reached the top of Antarctica's Vinson Massif, marking a decade challenge to climb the seven summits - the highest mountains of each of the seven continents: Mount Aconcagua, ...
A member of 7 Summits Club François Langlois has reached the top of Antarctica's Vinson Massif, marking a decade challenge to climb the seven summits - the highest mountains of each of the seven continents: Mount Aconcagua, Argentina, 2000; Mount Everest, Nepal, 2001, 2009; Mount Logan, Canada/Mount McKinley, U.S., 2003; Mount Elbrus, Russia, 2008; Carstensz Pyramid, Indonesia, 2008, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, 2009; Vinson Massif, Antarctica, 2010. The glorious mountaineering quest was realised by Langlois with a noble purpose - to raise money for children's charities.
“I was born prematurely at 4 pounds, with underdeveloped lungs. I spent the first 5 weeks of my life in an incubator, dropped to 2 pounds and had multiple blood transfusions, jaundice, basically fighting off a whole slew of illnesses, fighting for my right to stay! 35 years have now gone by and with my fully developed lungs; I had the privilege to set foot a top of the world’s highest mountain; Everest. In those beautiful 15 minutes that I stood there, gazing at our amazing world, I made a promise; to help give back the gift I received. Recently, we found out that the pain in my chest was in fact a 2 pound benign tumour the size of a grapefruit on my left lung. It seems that I have carried this tumour with me since birth and climbed with it over the years. It was with me on Everest. As they removed the tumour, it burst, spilling a pint of fluid outside instead of in my lungs. I was spared from a pulmonary oedema that while on the Everest, would have been fatal. I enjoy with what eyes I see the world today!“ exclaims François Langlois.
Langlois supports, among other, Fondation Centre de cancerologie Charles-Bruneau, Child Haven International, The Montreal Children’s Hospital (McGill University Health Centre), The Make-A-Wish Foundation and World Vision.
Alexander Abramov reports from Antarctica, information of 4 December
South Pole.
December 3, a team of 7 Summits Club landed in Antarctica. This is the first our team of the season. We follow the Program Skiing to the South Pole, a length of 111 km. The program is also called the "Last Degree». Band members: Alex ...
December 3, a team of 7 Summits Club landed in Antarctica. This is the first our team of the season. We follow the Program Skiing to the South Pole, a length of 111 km. The program is also called the "Last Degree». Band members: Alex Abramov (guide), Alexander Orlov, Arvydas Avulis (Lithuania).
So we flew to Antarctica. All day yesterday were gathering in Punta Arenas, it was a question to fly or not. Good weather was already 10 days and it began to deteriorate. Therefore, the flight was scheduled for the night. As a result, at 2 o'clock in the morning we were informed that we fly. At 5 a.m. the plane took off, and somewhere at 9 a.m. we were at Union Glacier.
This is a new airport, which the company ALE built at the new location. I can tell you: what made it fundamentally different from what was at Patriot Hills. At Patriot Hills was not bad, but here is just amazing. They brought a large number of new modules.
They are not simply shifted the airfield from place to place, they are completely modernized their camp.
Toilets now- a large modules with a metal frame with plastic trim. Inside, some pumps, all very civilized, cool. I think that in Antarctica there is no well-ordered place. Only at the South Pole, Amundsen Base - Scott .. There are cooler, of course. But the Union Glacier - this is a temporary camp, gradually approaching to civilization.
Union Glacier - a very interesting place, mountains are on all sides, very beautiful scenery. Strange, but there always windless, they say that since the opening of the camp there was no wind.
Approximately 50 people flew with us on the plane. Most of them were go to Mount Vinson (35 persons), several people go to the South Pole. We were told that one group is already working on our route, they came out 3 days ago.
Everything is going according to plan. Now we go to bed. The sun never sets, it continues to go, just becomes a night just below.
We got good skis and sleds. Tomorrow afternoon will be entirely devoted to preparation. The day after tomorrow (December 6) in the morning we will depart on 89-th degree and enter the route.
Richard Parks ready to take on the world
South Pole.
In the third of his BBC columns, Richard talks about his final preparations for his '737 Challenge' during which he aims to climb the highest mountain on each continent, plus reaching both the South Pole and the North Pole for charity - all ...
In the third of his BBC columns, Richard talks about his final preparations for his '737 Challenge' during which he aims to climb the highest mountain on each continent, plus reaching both the South Pole and the North Pole for charity - all within seven months in a bid to raise £1m.
The clock is now ticking towards 12 December when I fly to South America and then Antarctica on the way to the start of this most gruelling of challenges.
It's just mind-blowing to think how quickly the challenge has come round from conceiving it 15 months ago. I'm both scared and excited, but just want the whole thing to start.
I've done all the training now and I don't think I can do any more. I feel physically and mentally prepared for the challenge, which if successful will see me become the first person to stand on the continental summits and the poles in the same calendar year.
The challenge consists of the South Pole, Mount Vinson (4,897m), Aconcagia (6,962m), Mount Kilimanjaro (5895m), Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), the North Pole, Mount Everest (8,850m), Mount Denali (6,194m) and Mount Elbrus (5,642m).
If all goes to plan I'll be at the South Pole on 1 January and finish up at the top of Mount Elbrus on 31 July.
Over the last few months, and especially my final training on Cho Oyu in the Himalayas, I have developed this toolbox of mountaineering skills that will give me the best chance of success. But ultimately we are in the hands of mother nature and she could put a spanner in the works!
Since coming back from the Himalayas in October there has been no let up in attempting to boost my aerobic capacity. I competed in the Cardiff half marathon and then took part in the Cardiff Burn - a 10k run, a 42k bike and a 3k kayak. That was hard, but great preparation.
Everest would seem to be the biggest challenge but we have highlighted Denali as the toughest leg because in it's a brutal mountain in its own right
But I did have a setback when I lost my training partner on a run on the Ogmore coastal trail. Unfortunately my dog Ben fell down a hole and broke his leg. He's feeling a bit sorry for himself but he'll be okay.
The last couple of weeks I have been trying to taper down the training and have given Kevin Morgan, the former Wales international full-back who is helping me train, something of a poser.
I told him I want to be fit and fat before I go! I want to maintain my fitness but also to go into the challenge carrying a bit of extra weight with a big intake of carbohydrates.
A lot of my energies have been put in to the packing and sorting my gear out. I have to pack bags now that will be air freighted on to Everest base camp. Packing for nine legs over seven months is pretty challenging to say the least.
And on the other hand is the charity. I recently visited the cancer day care centre which was a real humbling experience and gave me some real inspiration for my trip.
I have spent every penny I have and every waking hour of the last 15 months on this unique challenge because I am very serious about it and its integrity. I was very down after my rugby career was ended with a shoulder injury and this has given me something to focus on.
At half-time during the Wales v New Zealand international at the Millennium Stadium I was presented with a special badge by Carwyn Jones, Wales' first minister, and WRU chief Roger Lewis. To get the ovation I did from the 70,000-odd fans in the stadium was a real lift.
After leaving on 12 December I don't get much thinking time because I'll be in Antarctica on 14 or 15 December and straight into the challenge. The plan is we get to the South Pole on 28 December.
And that poses a problem because I will have to wait there until 1 January so it qualifies with the calendar year requirements of the challenge. That has been one of the logistical hurdles I've had to overcome and I will have to get a flight back on my own on a supply plane.
Then it's back to Mount Vinson on Antarctica and then on to Aconcagia in South America - the highest mountain outside the Himalayas.
The crux of the challenge is further down the line - the North Pole, followed by Mount Everest and then on to Mount Denali. The North Pole presents the highest risk of cold or frost injury, and every day we are battling the north pole we are missing a day acclimatising on Everest.
Everest would seem to be the biggest challenge but we have highlighted Denali as the toughest leg because in it's a brutal mountain in its own right. Extreme weather systems and I will be doing it at my weakest mentally and physically because I will be coming straight off Everest.
We are aiming to be on Everest in April and May. Statistically the highest summit success rate is early May and after that we are looking at four to six days to climb Denali.
The aim then is to reach the summit of Mount Elbris before 31 July.
Richard Parks was speaking to BBC Sport Wales' Richard Thomas
Source:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/rugby_union/welsh/9239634.stm
Dan Mallory has one last mountain to climb
Vinson.
The local insurance broker has climbed the highest peak of just about every continent with family members. Two years ago, the Mallory family made headlines as the first family to reach the summit of Mount Everest. "The goal that was set 10 ...
The local insurance broker has climbed the highest peak of just about every continent with family members. Two years ago, the Mallory family made headlines as the first family to reach the summit of Mount Everest. "The goal that was set 10 years ago, was that I climb the highest mountain of every continent with at least one member of my immediate family," said Mallory, who lives in Utopia. The last mountain could well be the most challenging. But Mallory, 59, won't be going at it alone. He'll be joined by Laura, 23, and Adam, 28.
Laura, now a nurse working in Parry Sound, became the youngest Canadian woman to successfully climb Everest. Adam is an electrical engineer in Mississauga.
Second son, Alan, 25, won't be involved in this climb, but he'll be close by.
Newly married, the mechanical engineer took a job in Santiago, Chile. There could well be a family reunion when the climbing trio stops there en route to Antarctica's Mount Vinson.
Dan's wife, Barbara, won't be climbing, but she is making her own arrangements to support the climbing family, likely from a base in Chile.
The climbers are leaving Barrie Dec. 11 and hope to summit Mount Vinson sometime around Christmas.
For Laura, it's a trip of a lifetime that she agreed to go on only last week.
"I almost missed this opportunity," she said incredulously. "I was considering not going because of a job. I should have said yes right away, without thinking about it. It can change your life forever."
It all worked out in the end. She was offered to fill a maternity leave in February, a month or so after the family's return from the climb.
Antarctica is considered the bottom of the world circling the South Pole. It is almost entirely covered by ice, has no government and no permanent population, although it is something of a magnet for researchers, attracting up to 5,000 people to research stations scattered across the continent.
While Mount Vinson isn't considered the toughest of the highest peaks to climb, it is perhaps the least accessible.
"This one has a number of unique challenges," begins Mallory.
Because it is so remote, it will cost the Barrie-area family just about as much to get to as Everest did. The cost of the Everest climb for each Mallory family member was between $40,000 to $45,000, substantially less than the average $75,000 to $100,000 most people shell out to reach the top of the world.
So far, the plan is to fly to Santiago where the Mallorys will catch another flight to Punta Arenas, a city close to the size of Barrie. There the Mallorys will spend about five days getting supplies, organizing their gear and making final arrangements.
From there they will board a Russian propeller plane and land on a blue ice runway at the Patriot Hills encampment, run by an expedition support and touring company. It is a seasonal camp populated by tents during that continent's summer, from November to January.
From there, they board a smaller plane for a one-hour, 15- minute flight to Mount Vinson where they will begin their climb of the 16,200-foot mountain.
Flying from Punta Arenas costs $25,000 per person.
Oxygen isn't necessary for the climb, but there are challenges related to the air. The lower barometric pressure so close to the South Pole means the air is less dense and could feel like a mountain more than 5,000 feet taller than it actually is.
The Mallorys are preparing for the possible physiological impacts. While they each suffered from altitude sickness to some degree at Everest, none advanced to pulmonary or cerebral edema, so they're hoping their bodies will adjust on Mount Vinson as well.
The biggest challenge could well be the wind.
"I'm suspecting the winds are going to be the most unique thing we're going to be dealing with," said the senior Mallory. "But we might be lucky.
"I'm hoping for a clear day, without any wind and we'll get a magnificent view of the Ellsworth Mountains."
It's known to get as cold as -- 125 F, but it will likely be closer to -30 F during their venture.
Just the same, the Mallorys expect their experience at Everest to serve them well.
Certainly much of the gear and clothing they gathered for the Himalayan climb will, once again, be useful.
"I think we could probably live in a freezer with the gear we've got," he laughs.
The advantage is the 24 hours of sunlight.
Just the same, the weather has got to be optimal for the actual day of the climb.
Typically, the Mallorys don't use guides.
This approach served them well at Everest -- there is no better group on which to rely than family members who you trust, know and understand. Unlike solo climbers, who each have individual goals, the Mallorys know they can rely, implicitly, upon each member of their own group. No one Mallory triumphs over another.
The Mallorys have found reliance upon their own judgement to serve them well. But to get to the mountain at the bottom of the world the Mallorys have to use an outfitter and are obliged to take a guide. They will be joined by a climber from Japan. While climbing the Seven Summits was the original goal of the senior Mallory, the plan to include family members in all the climbs leaves the door open for the three children to follow in their dad's footsteps. Afterall, they've all conquered Everest.
"It's actually a feasible goal for me," said Laura, who will have four of the summits under her belt by the end of the year. "I just need someone to climb with for the others."
"I have to be the luckiest dad in the world to have all my family members interested in doing the activities I love so much," said Dan Mallory.
"We can illustrate to others that you can have this relationship with your kids and your family."
thebarrieexaminer.com
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The Seven Summits
At the beginning of this year, 275 people had climbed the seven summits - the highest mountains on the seven continents. By the beginning of next, Dan Mallory expects to add his name to that list. His accomplishments will include:
2002-- Mt. Aconcagua (6,962 m/22,841 ft.), highest mountain in South America;
2004-- Mt. McKinley (6,193m /20,320 ft.), highest in North America 2005-- Mt. Kosciuszko (2,228 m/ 7,310 ft.), highest mountain inAustralia;
2006-- Mt. Elbrus (5,642 m/18,510 ft.) -highest European peak; 2006-- Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,895 m/ 19,342 ft.), highest mountain inAfrica; 2008 - Mt. Everest (8,848 m/29,029 ft.), highest mountain inAsia; 2010 - Mt. Vinson (4,892 m/ 16,050 ft.), highest mountain inAntarctica.