Carstensz Pyramid(4884) - Page 3

SUMMIT!  

March 17, the night before the ascent I could not sleep. At first it was chill, after midnight the moon came out, illuminating everything around as in a daytime, in the morning it began to rain. But we decide to go on the route.

 March 18, 2017 at 4:30  it was a light breakfast and at 5:30 we leave for an assault. We walked calmly. During the day the weather changed rapidly, then the sun, then fog, then rain, then snow. By noon the whole team had successfully climbed to the top of the Carstensz Pyramid (4884 m)!

 First thing I called home, to my loved ones! I told my dear wife Olga that we had climbed and started the descent. Thanks to IEC Telecom Kazakhstan, satellite communications connect our family regardless of distances;)

 On the descent, we were in a thunderstorm and wet snow. We descended into the inner corners, along which streams flowed. Through wet, we went down to the base camp.

Everything is fine ;)

Ludmila Korobeshko: Early this morning, a helicopter flew in the Yellow Valley  for taking  us. So our the fast expedition to Pyramid Carstensz ends quickly, successfully and cheerfully.

P.S. Maksut Zhumayev is with us, but for some reason he is not in the photo again. Probably, he loads things in the helicopter.

  Alex Safonov, Dmitry Parpiev, Vasily Shakhnovsky, Valery Rozov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, helicopter pilots and a local guide ...

Ludmila Korobeshko:  The first night, today, March 18, we climbed to the top in 5 hours and 15 minutes. Then we descended in the pouring rain along the riverbeds. Now I know what canyoning is! We are waiting for the helicopter tomorrow.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, guide and director of the 7 Summits Club: Today we stood at 4.30. At 5.00 we were already at breakfast. All the night it was raining. But we hoped that by the time of our flight it will stop. However, this did not happen. Waited in stand-by mode until 13.00. Then we relaxed. Then we again gathered with strength and conducted classes on horizontal and vertical fixed ropes. Tomorrow we will rise again at 4.30 and try to fly to the base camp of Carstensz. We are stubborn!

This morning at 6:00 the main team came  to Timika. We quickly overloaded everything into a helicopter. There was a lot of  cargo, so the helicopter must became as easy as possible. When they took off the back door, I felt somehow uncomfortable. When we loaded into the salon, in the center of it we saw a big hole - also the consequences of relief. For 15 minutes, the pilots warmed up the screws. Finally, we took off. After 20 minutes, not far from the landing site, we got into a very dense fog. The altimeter showed 3800. I realized that there were a number of mounts about 5000. It became completely creepy. We sharply gained altitude to 5000. Then the sharp icing of the salon began. We were forced to return. The next attempt is scheduled for tomorrow.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, expedition guide and company director of the 7 Summits Club: Today, Monday, March 13, the expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Pyramid Carstensz begins. This is the most mysterious and hard-to-reach mountain from the 7 Summits project.

 This morning  the main part of the team and most of the expeditionary cargo depart from Geneva. In the plane there will also be a legend of world basejumping and baseclimbing Valery Rozov.

I personally already have halfway to the goal of our trip - the island of Papua New Guinea - specifically, I am in Hong Kong.

And one more participant of our expedition and a part-time star of world mountaineering, a man who made  no oxygen climb on all 14 eight-thousanders - Maksut Zhumayev - is already waiting for us on that island, in the town of Timika, where he arrived this morning.

The next day we all should meet in Timika and go straight to the foot of the Pyramid of Carstensz. We'll see how it goes. Follow our news!

The 7 Summits Club Expedition of the Pyramid of Carstens, the highest point in Australia was held from October 20 to November 6, 2016.  Leader Alexander Abramov. All memberss underwent a difficult trek through the jungles of New Guinea and then climbed to the top of the rocky route.

 Please find some photos from our summit day. Carstenzs expedition 2016 led by Alex Abramov.

Our Indonesian partners are famous for their trademark technique - inscribed flags on top of the mountain and certificates. Therefore, the awarding   procedure can be regarded as the end of the expedition. Though it may be, we still have to go home. But  to leave heat in South-East Asia for the cold of Russia is not very desirable.

Our team on the Pyramid Carstensz returned to the paradise island of Bali, to relax and to heal the wounds. Mission accomplished - passed through the jungle, met with the Papuans, climbed to the top. Now  we have memories and stories for a lifetime. But so far only photos:

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov, from the base camp of Carstensz Pyramid. Today, our team (all members) climbed to the top. We climbed in record time, 5 hours from base camp to the summit. We were very lucky with the weather.

One of our members, all of you know, Irena Kharazova thus completing the Seven Summits project. And we lost another customer. LAUGH!

In general, everything is fine, we are now sitting in the base camp. We went down, the weather is beautiful, everyone is happy. We send greetings to family and friends! ...

Details we write tomorrow when we shall be on Bali. Now we are waiting for the helicopter. Bye!

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from Papua Province, from the 7 Summits Club expedition to the Pyramid of Carstensz. This morning the weather was beautiful, which is very rare in these parts of the World. We were ready to start, but it turned out that the porters did not want to go. And they had a very long meeting, it was all due to our yesterday's meeting with the armed guerrillas.

 The porters were afraid to go out, but, nevertheless, at ten o'clock still started to collect things. We have lost time, so we had to go the whole day again. We got to the fourth camp very late, in darkness. This is the last camp before the base camp, tomorrow we will have a sufficiently long march climbing about one kilometer, partly over rocks.  And we must come to the base camp.

 Today we have a remarkable event. Today Evgeniy Kravt is 41. He put the bottle of whiskey, very good quality. And on the occasion, our Indonesian cooks and guides made cake, chocolate cake.

 Now the rain continues to pour. Everything is as usual, and by the morning rain subsides. We hope that this tradition will continue, and we will be able to start early in the morning.

 So far, all are good. Everybody is happy....

Hello! Alexander Abramov from Papua. We are fine, all alive and healthy. Constantly pouring rain. We now come to the third camp, there is still a camp 4 and the base camp. Then we will climb up the mountain.

One moment overshadowed today our travel. We were stopped by some local people with machine guns and pistols. They demanded money from us. We gave all that we could - it is about 1500 dollars. And we were released, thank God. Things could have been much worse, probably. But the expedition continues ... everything is good, in general, nothing bad has not happened yet. Okay ... well, all are alive and well and  have good appetite at all.

All good-bye!

Hello! There is Alexander Abramov, the Pyramid of Carstensz. Yesterday we finally went into these terrible, wet jungle and moved in it until evening in the pouring rain. Torrential rain it is a rain that just breaks through not only jackets or coats, but also tents, where we spend the night. Dirt, of course, to the knee. The guys really did not expect this. And their surprise has no limit. All the time asking how long it will last? Yes, this dirt will continue to the base camp Carstensz Pyramid. Today we could not get the camp 2 and stopped in the intermediate camp.

 In the morning we started with the desire to reach the camp 2, but within an hour we came to a place where they were to pass the bridge.  The bridge appeared crushed, destroyed. And so for about two hours our Papuans made for us a new bridge. They cut down a tree, threw it into the water, pulled the rope. And we walked along the tree through which poured rage whitewater, belayed by  a rope...

Later in the jungle, we just started to climb on tree roots. You walk through the jungle ... in the air, at the height of half a meter. This endless climbing, endless mud, and we were not able to reach the camp 2 ...

 However, the team does not lose good spirits. Everybody is happy.

Alex Abramov:

Group took off from Timaka in Sugapa with a delay of 4 hours. In Sugapa we were waited for the crowd of Papuans with spears and bows. However, they met another plane, but we were impressed.

35 motoriders took us and our cargo and took up on a very bad road. Papuans three times stopped us and demanded money. But the policeman who was with us, decided this issue.

We finally got to Suanggama (2000 m), a village consisting of 5 houses. Three of them belong to the headman  and he posted three of his family. And two plank house built by the guides for the reception of expeditions to Carstensz. The houses of the headman  is a round hut with a grass roof. And dirt floors, as at Masai people in Africa. Our two cottages are two barn of rough-hewn boards.

We sleep on the floor and eat under a canopy of grass overlooking the whole village.

At the end of the day we witnessed an ugly scene. Men beat  one of wives of the headman  (third and youngest), she allegedly cheated on him with a white tourist. I think they even wanted to kill her. The Papuans are clearly threatened to our group. Anxious.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 summits Club, a guide of the expedition: the 21st October, our team gradually gathered in a heavenly corner of the planet, which is called the island of Bali. This is probably one of the best places on Earth. Before hard work it is always required to relax. Here we rested from the hustle and bustle of Moscow, and before the rainy, ruthless Irian Jaya.

 It is difficult to estimate how many lobsters were killed in the bellies of our climbers. The evening of 22th October was illuminated by our noisy departure to the country of Papuans. Everything was checked, loaded and the plane dragged us to the glorious town of Timika in the South of the island of New Guinea...

Today, Alexander Abramov went to the Papuans. He is the guide of an expedition to the Pyramid Carstensz and President of the 7 Summits Club.

 Alex started a few days earlier the entire group to thoroughly prepare for this difficult expedition.

And the rest of the participants will arrive at the point of collection - Bali - 21 October. And eating seafood and having been filled with the sun, they will go deep into the island of Papua New Guinea adventures. The team gathered this times numerous - 10 PAX.

Hello everyone! This is Olga Rumyantseva from an expedition to Carstensz Pyramid. As I said, the day before yesterday we all by our friendly team in quite difficult conditions climbed (Pyramid) Cartenzs. Igor Stolyarov completed the Seven summits program, what made him for the second day very happy...

We are now on the way home, already nearly reached the third camp. So hopefully soon we will be in Sugapa. And go to Bali, it is time - some participants became similar to the Papuans, speak their language, eat their food, chew red poppy, etc... Bye!

According to a guide of 7 summits Club Olga Rumyantseva, today's climb was successful. The whole team descended to base camp. Tomorrow they begin the return journey through the jungle. We congratulate all participants and leader! And especially, that is, separately, we congratulate Igor Stolyarov with successful completion of the program 7 summits!

Igor Stolyarov - on the right

We received two messages from the head of the expedition to the Pyramid Carstenzs (Indonesia, the island of Papua New Guinea) a guide of 7 summits Club Olga Rumyantseva.

Sunday 12 April:

"We came to camp 4. On the way we enjoyed the beautiful views. After he arranged the camp and had lunch, we held a technical training with elements of the jumar ascends and Tyrolean traverse (that's all we will meet very soon on the ascent"

Monday 13 April:

"We got to base camp. All is well. And if the weather permits, today we will go on summit climbing"

A few photos from past expeditions

Beautiful views on the way to and from base camp

Base camp

Tyrolean traverse