Asia - Page 23

Greetings from Iran, from the assault camp on the slopes of Demavend! Our group "The Third Mountain" went to the final acclimatization rotation today and is now preparing to storm the summit. The ascent takes place in difficult weather conditions. They plan is to start in two groups. The ascent will start earlier than usual in order to catch the maximum weather window.

Fingers crossed and good luck!

2.06, 3rd day.  All salom from Iran!  The group of the 7 Summits Club "Third Mountain" continues its acclimatization program before climbing Damavand.  After a morning high-altitude exercise and an excellent breakfast, we went down by cable car to Tehran and rode by comfortable minibusus to the foot of Damavand.

On the way, we had lunch at our favorite Adam and Eve restaurant, tasting delicious kebabs and fresh salads. Then we visited the House of the Iranian Mountaineering Federation and issued the necessary permits for climbing Damavand.  On the way to Larijan, a local thermal spring resort, we stopped at the poppy meadow for a branded local photo shoot.

After staying at the hotel, we visited the pool with thermal waters and enjoyed seven types of kebabs at dinner in the local kebab shop, everything is very cool!

Well-fed and satisfied, we took an evening walk around Larijan, and then went to bed. Tomorrow is going to be a hard day - climbing to the assault camp at 4200m.

Take care of yourself!

See you in the mountains!

All the weather and good luck!

Guides Valery Myasoedov and Evgeny Fedyunin.

All salam from Iran! Today, our group called "The Third Mountain" went up to the Tochal ski resort to the alpine hotel of the same name – Tochal.  To a height of 3500m, for primary acclimatization.

The ascent was not difficult, as we used the "technical support" of the local cable car.

After lunch, the weather began to deteriorate, and we decided not to waste time and instead of the Shah Neshin mountain (3800m) go straight to the Peak of Tochal - 3964m. We managed, before the thunderstorm, which came as soon as we entered the hotel.

We went in “pole-pole”, in a very comfortable aerobic mode! After trekking, we did stretching and rest on the eve of dinner.

Guides Valery Myasoedov and Evgeny Fedyunin.

Greetings to all from Iran! A new group of the 7 Summits Club has arrived in Tehran to climb the highest volcano in Asia, Mount Damavand 5671m.

Today there was a sightseeing tour of the city with a visit to the mirrored halls of the Golestan Palace and lunch at a restaurant located in the ancient building of the first Tehran bank.

And in the evening, we had a welcome dinner in the panoramic restaurant of the Milad TV tower at an altitude of 280 meters. We met and discussed the name of our group.

Guides Valery Myasoedov and Evgeny Fedyunin.

Valery Myasoedov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

 Salom from Iran! Yesterday, the group "Three by three" in full force made an ascent on the summit of Damavand.  In my memory, the most difficult climb, the most difficult weather conditions, all the most unusual… We went out to storm at 23.00, whereas before, all our groups went out at 4-5 in the morning. This was due to the thunderstorm front, which has been steadily covering the Damavand area for the past few days in the afternoon. Safety is always a priority for us, wherever it is, on any mountain. We spent more than a day on our feet, just a couple of hours of rest after dinner, the participants showed a full understanding of the situation and the mood to achieve the goal. As a result, at 6.45 am we were all standing at the top, very tired, but also very happy from this moment of being on the highest volcano in Asia. After almost 8 hours of work in difficult conditions, the snow was knee-deep in places, it was completely uncharacteristic for the June Damavand, in fact, it was like a winter ascent. The indomitable character and willpower of the band members are admired. The guys are great fellows, real fighters! Now we are already in Tehran, resting and recovering. There will be a gala dinner and an award ceremony in the evening.

Valery Myasoedov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! The group "Three by three" continues its climbing program on Damavand. Today was the third day, which we tentatively called Kebab Day the day before. Great name, fully justified. After breakfast at the Tochal Mountain Hotel, we took a cable car down to Tehran and started moving to the foot of Damavand. On the way, we had lunch planned at our favorite Adam and Eve restaurant. A non-Muslim name, say, but nevertheless…  And they also started celebrating Kebab Day there. Lamb on a bone, lamb kebab, several fresh salads and snacks with beer and doug, milk drink. A great start!

   Later we stopped at the House of the Iranian Mountaineering Federation to apply for permits. And how they would have been decorated. But, in fact, they did not get their hands on it, since the big boss was not in the office. We left copies of our passports, paid for them, and were formally given the go-ahead to move on. Thanks to the time saved, we then drove to the poppy meadow. We spent an hour there. This is some kind of poppy paradise... Look at the photo and you will understand.

Next, we reached Larijan, a hotel with thermal springs. We settled in, took a walk, rested, and finished the Kebab Day at a local kebab shop. Liver kebab, pork fat kebab, bone kebab were insanely tender and delicious, they even asked for an addition. Well-fed and satisfied, we took an evening walk around Larijan and went to bed. Tomorrow is a hard day, climbing to the camp at 4,200 m.

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:
Greetings from Iran! A new season has started on Damavand! Hurray! How we've been waiting for this!.. The first group arrived yesterday, the visa was processed quickly, and in less than an hour we were at the hotel. Almost 5 whole hours of rest after a night flight were very useful. Tehran greeted us with a heat of +38, but this is normal for this time of year, we were ready for it. On the first day of the program, as always, we have a sightseeing tour of the city and lunch at a restaurant located in an ancient building where the first Tehran bank once stood. Traditionally, they tried "dizi sangi", a dish in a pot with mutton and vegetables. We haven't had time to get hungry yet after a hearty breakfast at the hotel, however, we got an idea about the peculiarities of cooking this dish and Iranian cuisine in general.

Then, accompanied by our guide, the magnificent Mariam, we proceeded to the Golestan Palace, where we examined numerous expositions and artifacts of the Qajar and Pahlavi dynasties. We are very lucky that Mariam is our city guide again this season, she is already our mascot, sets a good positive mood for the whole program. In the evening, a welcome dinner was held in the panoramic restaurant of the Milod TV tower at an altitude of 280 m. We got to know each other better and came up with the name of our group. We are now called "Three by Three". Why? I will explain in the next news. Today we are going up to the alpine hotel Tochal for acclimatization.

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest has been successfully completed and has gone down in history. This time we tried to make more video recordings, and professional ones at that. Ilya Gladkikh joined the team for this purpose. We have already published some of the materials in the chronicle of the expedition. Now it's time for the final processing and publication of the part of the filming that could not be processed on site.  Your attention is drawn to the page of the expedition diary. The first acclimatization rotation with the first overcoming of the legendary Khumbu icefall.

The 2024 expeditions of the 7 Summits Club (led by Alexander Abramov) and the 8000 Club (led by Viktor Volodin) on Everest have been successfully completed.  The vast majority of the participants achieved their goal and climbed to the highest peak of our planet. Once again, we congratulate them and intend to congratulate them at least twice more: at the event of our Club and at the evening of the Russian Mountaineering Federation.

Thanks to everyone who helped us organize the expeditions!

Thanks to our Sherpa friends, without whose strength and skill the picture would be somewhat different!

The ascents were very difficult. The 8000 Club expedition was simply blocked by strong winds for one day at the assault camp on the South Col. And the next day, the team made the ascent in far from the most favorable conditions. As well as the team of Alexander Abramov (7 Summits Club).  We did not receive ideal conditions. It was hard, but we managed.  We invite all participants to join us on new journeys! Especially those who didn't get Everest this time.

17 May

Mr. Denis Grachev 7:22 AM

Mr. Sergei Mikhalev 7:22 AM

Mr. Adrian Ahritculesei 7:22 AM

Mr. Konstantin Simon 7:22 AM

Mr. Pemba Nurbu Sherpa 7:22 AM

Mr. Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa 7:22 AM

Mr. Lakpa Sherpa 7:22 AM

Mr. Nima Dindu Sherpa 7:22 AM

18 May

Mr. Aleksei Aksenov 6:30 AM

Mr. Andrei Golov 6:30 AM

Mr. Andrey Fedorov 6:30 AM

Ms. Elizaveta Berezina 6:30 AM

Mr. Andrei Naibauer 6:30 AM

Mr. German Koshelev 6:30 AM

Mr. Nikolai Shipilov 6:30 AM

Mr. Rinjen Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Dawa Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Dawa Geljen Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Ngima Thindu Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Lakpa Galu Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Mingdukpa Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Chhiring Tashi Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Pasang Gelu Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Milan Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Ngima Tenje Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Nima Dorchi Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Chhewang Sherpa 6:30 AM

Mr. Pasang Sherpa 6:30 AM

LEONID KORABLEV 7800 m  15 May

VICTOR VOLODIN 7900 m  15 May

ALEXANDER ABRAMOV 18 MAY 8600 m

Successful ascent of Mount Everest as part of the 8000 Club group (head Viktor Volodin) Denis Grachev has completed a program of ascents to the highest peaks of all continents -The Seven Summits. Congratulations! Denis did it "according to Kosciuszko's version." Therefore, we not only congratulate him, but also invite him to join our expedition to the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid next year.

Denis is 50 years old, a Muscovite, a veteran of law enforcement agencies, and professes a lifestyle that is sympathetic to us. That is, adventures of various kinds. Motorcycle, parachute, mountaineering…

 On May 10th, about ten days ago, an assault attempt was made on Kangchenjunga. The expedition members followed the ropes group from camp 7300. But from the height of 7800, everyone went down - huge snows, the danger of avalanches, stormy winds. The mountain was never hung with fixed ropes to the top.

On May 18, four Sherpas tried to break through from Camp 2 (6,400) to Camp 3 (7,300), and double-check the ropes that had gone under the snow. They couldn't. Today, the enlarged ropes team tried again - unsuccessfully.

 Sergey Seliverstov and Alina Pekova continue to stay at the base camp at 5500. Alla Mishin was taken out successfully and literally by accident on an insurance sanitary flight. The treatment in Kathmandu went without problems, but it is impossible to return back in a reasonable way: the mountain is too far away, difficult, high and unpopular. There are no passing flights, a separate flight costs $ 6,500 and there has been no weather that will allow it to fly a very long distance, four five thousand passes along the way, for a week. As a result, Alla dropped out of the Kanche team. Sergey and Alina continue to keep fit, making training rotations to 6200, still waiting for the weather window.

All namaste from the Himalayas! Due to the lack of communication, and sometimes even strength, it was not possible to transmit information. So, the 8000 Club group went to Camp 1 on May 12 and, having successfully overcome the Khumbu icefall, reached its goal. On May 13th, we slowly move to Camp 2, the weather is pleasant and hot. On May 14th, the march is simple at first, and then we arrive at Camp 3 on steep ice. What is pleasing is that there are practically no people on the route. May 15th is one of the hardest and longest days, but nevertheless, we reach the South Col. However, not all of us.  Leonid, before the Camp of Route 4 on Lhotse, decides to stop climbing and go down. Everyone else reaches Camp 4 safely on a Saddle. And then it began: a strong wind tearing the tents that day does not even allow us to stick out our noses, let alone go out to storm. On May 16th, in the morning, we sit and hold tents, the wind has played out in earnest. According to the forecast, there should be a lull in the evening, and we decide to start a storm at 21 o'clock. Unfortunately, as often happens, the Hydrometeorological Center slightly failed. The wind is still strong. We don't have the energy, time, and everything else to wait any longer. And we decide to move out into the night. The frosty wind, burning our face and fingers, tries to stop us, but the thirst for victory and the desire to see the whole world from a height of 8848 m pushes the team to the top. And at 7.40 Nepali time on May 17th, Adrian, Denis, Konstantin and Sergey, as well as the Sherpas accompanying them, climbed to the top. Further, the strong wind does not stop and the long but pleasant road down to home, family and friends. Descent to Camp 2 and 1, Base camp, flight to Lukla and Kathmandu. The team's guide is Viktor Volodin.

Alexander Abramov, Expedition Leader, President of the 7 Summits Club: We're all at Base Camp. And we are already waiting for the helicopter in Kathmandu. Everyone is happy. The team is great!

Dmitry Moskalev on Lhotse

The Everest climbers from the 8000 Club team with their leader Viktor Volodin safely descended from Camp 2 through the icefall and arrived at the Base Camp. A solemn meeting was arranged for the heroes here and in the evening they received diplomas on climbing the highest peak in the World. Alex Abramov's team descended from the summit of Mount Everest after successfully climbing to Camp 2 for the night. Dmitry Moskalev came down here from the summit of Lhotse.  We are waiting for everyone at the Base Camp tomorrow!

 This morning we received a message that Alexander Abramov's team climbed the summit of Mount Everest and began the descent. They reached the camp on the South Col.

Dmitry Moskalev reached the summit of Lhotse. He is also on the descent. We are waiting for further information.

 This morning, the ascent on the summit of Mount Everest was made by members of the 8000 Club group Adrian Ahritculesei (Romania), Denis Grachev, Sergey Mikhalev and Konstantin Simon. Now this group, together with Viktor Volodin, spends the night in Camp 2 at an altitude of 6500. Alex Abramov's group went up to the assault camp and was already supposed to go on the ascent. Dmitry Moskalev also went up to the assault camp. But he has a different aim and a different camp. He must go out to storm the summit of Lhotse. Good luck to everyone!

News from Everest. Viktor Volodin's group (8000 Club) is going to storm Mount Everest from Camp 4 on the Southern Saddle at 9 p.m. today. The wind, due to which there have been no ascents for three days, is subsiding. As it was predicted. Unfortunately, Leonid decided to end the expedition. He has already safely descended to the base camp.

 Alex Abramov's group (the 7 Summits Club) in full force went up to Camp 3 and is now resting.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

There's a very strong wind up there today, it's been blowing all night. Our team decided to spend another day at an altitude of 6500m in Camp 2.

Viktor Volodin's team went to Camp 4 on the South Col. I think there is a strong wind there now.

We will go to Camp 3 tomorrow. We are resting today.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 After a good rest, our team went out to storm Mount Everest. Many expeditions to 8000 meters were canceled or ended in failure. We hope that our experience will help us.

 So, our schedule:

May 14 - Camp 2

May 15 - Camp 3

May 16 - South Saddle

May 17 ascent and descent to Camp 2

May 18 descent to the Base Camp

On May 19th, wait for us in Kathmandu.

On May 8, 2024, a historic chess tournament was held at the Everest base camp, which was attended by professional chess players and amateurs, climbers and walkers, Russians and Nepalese. It is very important that the competition was held according to all sports rules, under the close supervision of professional referee Sergey Moiseev. The parties had a very strict time limit, but they were not only recorded, but also broadcast over the Internet. All possible difficulties were overcome, and in the end we got an event that we at the 7 Summits Club have the right to be proud of.

Full gallery (171 pictures)

Full tournament record from the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Fragments of a chess tournament

Awarding