Asia - Page 24

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 May 11th. Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Yesterday, half of the camp went down. It was a fairly large Indian expedition (about 10 participants and the same number of Sherpas). They spent a month and a half on the mountain and after another unsuccessful attempt to hang the ropes (on May 8-9, the national team tried to do this, but only reached 7,400), they decided to curtail the expedition.

As a result, our team of 6 people remained at Dhaulagiri, and another international team of 7 people.

As of yesterday morning, the input data was as follows

  In fact, there are no fixed ropes. Those that the team re-(!) hung up to 7,400 a day ago are already under the snow. It needs to be re-hung, and from C1 - there are many cracks opened.

  The condition of the site from C2 to C3 is very avalanche-prone.

  The ropes are all used up, we need to bring new ones from Kathmandu.

  And the main thing is the weather. Snowfall is expected daily for the next 8-9 days…

After weighing all this, we decided to wind down. The members of the international team said they were waiting for our decision (they have almost no Sherpas for making the route). And they were very happy when they found out that we were winding down. They said that everything was correct. By the way, there are very interesting characters in the national team. Anna Tybor from Poland, who planned to ski down from the top of Dhaulagiri.  Arjun is a Hindu who became the youngest climber to descend Lhotse and Everest in 2010. He is making a 14X8000 project. He says that he has agreed on the possibility of entering Pakistan, and this is the main problem for Hindus. He hopes to become the first Indian to climb all 14 eight-tiers. Aiden is a climber from Turkey who has climbed 10 out of 14. This is his third time on Dhaulagiri. And some more interesting characters. We've become friends here.

After making a difficult decision, we had a farewell dinner.

We've been waiting for a helicopter to fly to Pokhara all morning.   By 13.00 he almost reached us, then everything was covered with clouds and heavy snow began to fall.

We hope to leave tomorrow morning now… Some participants have ideas to try to rush to Kangchenjunga and Lhotse. But first we need to get to Kathmandu.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

The Everest-24 team, led by Alexander Abramov, finished their vacation in Namche Bazaar.

On May 12th, we all fly to the Everest Base Camp. On May 13th, we have rest and preparation. On May 14th we will start at Camp 2. On May 15th - Camp 3. On May 16th - Camp 4 on the South Col and on the night of May 16th to 17th we go out to storm Everest. Wish us good luck!

Valery Babanov and Eduard Kubatov also rested here in Namche Bazaar. Valera plans Everest without additional oxygen, Eduard – Lhotse, also without additional oxygen.

Alla Mishina conveyed the following information.

Kangchenjunga, 05/11/2024.  Message from Sergey Seliverstov:

"Yesterday at 19.30 everyone went out to storm the summit. We turned around from 7700m - a lot of snow, avalanche danger. We went down to the Base Camp".

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Yesterday, on May 9, our team was able to fly from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar with great difficulty in very bad weather. The flight was extreme. In conditions of very poor visibility, we flew very low. We are currently vacationing in Namche. Bars, massages, food and sleep.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 8000 Club, reports from the Everest base camp:

Good afternoon! Today, the 8000 Club team went up to the helipad from morning to early, after a rest, hoping to fly to the base camp. At first, there was no light and no hint that we would get to the base camp today. But less than an hour later, our yellow helicopter loomed in the sky. And within an hour, the whole group was delivered to the Base Camp. Here, as usual, we were warmly and well received, and accordingly, we were well fed. Then we held another class on the use of oxygen equipment. Each participant independently tried this wonderful device on himself. Tomorrow we have a day of preparation and training for entering the high-altitude area.  And on the night of May 12th, we go out to storm. All feel good. Wish us an easy and safe road, and an easy descent to the base camp, and then home!

Nepal, Base Camp Everest - Lukla - Kathmandu

Hello everyone from cool Kathmandu! Yes, it's not hot in Kathmandu right now either, just like in the Everest base camp, as well as in Moscow!

Today was a busy day, it's also a holiday on May 9th.

The trekker team spent their reserve day at the Everest Base, watching the chess "tournament of the century" and getting to know the life of Everest expeditions closer and deeper.

But, there are no reserve days left, we need to get out to civilization, and the weather is so-so. We decided not to take any chances and go out early in the morning towards Feriche, where there are more chances to catch the summer weather. A little bit of hassle, expectations and our team, as well as the chess team, were in Kathmandu in the evening, by the pool in Hyatt. Although there was no doubt about it.

In the evening, there was a festive farewell dinner at the delicious La Sherpa restaurant, where the participants were awarded and many warm words were said.

It's nice to realize that in such a short period the team has rallied, received a lot of unforgettable (in a good way) impressions and the participants take with them only bright and positive memories.

Have a good trip home and see you again!

Yours are Valery Myasoedov, Andrey Berezin, Anastasia Kuznetsova

Nepal / Kathmandu 2024.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from the members of the expedition from BС Dhaulagiri! Today we had a double holiday - Victory Day and the Birthday of Igor Smirnov, a member of the expedition.

Our morning started with the song "Victory Day" and active holiday exercises.

At breakfast, we congratulated Igor with a cake, deciding that we would arrange a more serious celebration later in the evening. But then the participants of the neighboring expedition came to our dining room with congratulations and gifts for Igor. So we opened the champagne and started celebrating all at once. Then the male half of our exp went for a walk, and Ira and I had a bath day.

Before lunch, the fix-ropes team came down. They barely managed to climb from C2 to C3 in a strong wind and snowfall in 14 hours (usually 5-7 hours). Avalanches swept by several times, one even slightly touched them. At night, they even made an attempt to climb above Camp 3, but quickly turned around due to the avalanche-prone situation and bad weather.

Besides us, there is only one more expedition here near Dhaulagiri - a team of Indians with Pioneer company. But after these events, they decided to curtail the expedition.

In general, we are still looking at forecasts - but there will be snowfall in the next 8-10 days. Tomorrow we will gather a consultation and decide how to live on.

The weather in BC is average - either snowfall or wind. But sometimes the sun comes through. All the participants of our expedition are cheerful and hope for the best.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of Mount Lobuche!  We had no communication while we were in the assault camp. In the morning, we left the village of Lobuche and went up to the assault camp in three hours. The weather turned bad there, and we held training sessions in a tent under the snow! We rested before going out. At midnight we had breakfast and went up. Due to the snowfall, the road was very slippery and heavy. By dawn it got better, we went to the beginning of the ropes and ice. We put on the crampons and started climbing the ropes. As a result, we climbed to the top in 9 hours. Then we had a long descent to the Lobuche Lodge. We didn't get there until 9 p.m. And now we have gone down to Lukla by helicopter and are waiting for a flight to Kathmandu.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Today, the first ever chess tournament was held at the Everest base camp – Ever Chess. Chess players from Russia and Nepal took part in it. Grandmaster and mountaineer Alexander Ryazantsev won.

 Official information about the Russian Chess Federation tournament

The results of the Ever-Chess tournament have been summed up.

According to the results of the additional games, grandmaster Alexander Ryazantsev became the winner of the tournament, beating Yuri Kalinichenko by only half a point. Vladimir Shumilin won the bronze medal.

The prize fund was also divided among themselves in descending order: Andrey Minkov, Yulia Kholodnova, Andrey Fedorov, Peter Minkov, Alexander Abramov, German Koshelev, Gennady Dutov.

Ever-Chess was the first tournament that was successfully held at the highest point in the world (5360 meters, Everest Base Camp).

The tournament was held in a friendly and fun atmosphere. Among the spectators were citizens of Japan, Russia, the USA and Nepal.

The tournament was organized by the 7 Summits Club with the support of the Russian Chess Federation.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from BC Dhaulagiri from our cheerful team!

Today we had a day of preparation for the summit assault. In the morning, we did exercises with elements of Turkish breathing exercises, which was conducted by our Turkish friend from the neighboring expedition. After breakfast, high-altitude meals were distributed by day and personal belongings were collected.

But by lunchtime, the advance fix-ropes team got in touch. They reported that the weather is bad (snow and wind) and the condition of the route is very difficult - deep dry snow. In 12 hours they did not manage to get from C2 to C3…

In such a situation, it was decided to postpone our exit for a few days. According to the forecast, the nearest window is probably May 14-15.

But we were very pleased with the video message from our friends from Transglobal Car. They even dedicated poems to us! So we try not to lose heart and wait for the weather to improve.

Official publication on the website of the Russian Chess Federation:

In total, from the city of Lukla to the base camp, the chess players had to overcome 50 kilometers and climb from a height of 2,860 meters to a height of 5,364 meters during seven days of the hike.

Tomorrow, from 8:15 Moscow time and 11:00 Nepal time, the chess tournament starts at the highest natural altitude.

The chess players will have to play 9 games according to the Swiss system with a control of 10’+3”.

Recall that the competition will be held at the highest altitude, not counting the chess games played in space. The tournament will feature a prize pool of 7 million rubles.

The games will be broadcast on the channel of the Russian Chess Federation.

Hello everyone! Koniyaki group is in touch! Tonight, part of the bravest group conquered the panoramic peak of Kala Patthar. After that, our friendly team went down to the village of Lobuche, where it was time for us to split up.

The trekkers went down Dingboche, and a group of climbers to the summit of Lobuche East stayed in the village of Lobuche.  They wanted to hold training classes, but it started snowing heavily and they decided to postpone it. Tomorrow, the climbing team ascends to the Lobuche base camp and there will be no contact with them for several days.

Nastya Kuznetsova, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Nepal Everchess 2024, Ferice 4200 m - Lobuche 4900 m, trekking to the Everest base camp.

Snow greetings from the Himalayas!  Today we woke up to the sound of helicopters in the village of Feriche at 4,200 m. The morning was sunny and the helicopter companies operating communications throughout the valley between the Everest base camp and Lukla took advantage of this. Helicopters scurried back and forth across the valley like bumblebees over a sunflower field.

We are gaining further heights. The trees have already disappeared, followed by creeping coniferous shrubs with tiny flowers of Alpine meadows. The height in the cafe was fixed at 4600 m. Then a long climb is already under the snow to the memorial complex of the dead climbers. Every time we pass through here, we visit our friend Valery Rozov.

The village of Lobuche met us with snowdrifts and snowfall. Here we also met our guys from the team that goes to the summit of Lobuche with Sergey Avtomonov.

In the late afternoon, nature gave us a gift and showed us the surrounding Summits in the sunset light. Tomorrow we should reach our main destination - Everest Base Camp. Part of the group will go there with climbing at Kala Patthar, the other part will go directly to BC.

Your guides are Valery Myasoedov, Andrey Berezin, Anastasia Kuznetsova.

Nepal, Lobuche 4900 m.

Greetings from distant Papuasia! Today, our large friendly company was forced to split up, some of the participants went towards home. But the other half continued their journey through this wild island. After spending several hours on the road, jumping on bumps and placing a decent amount of dirt, we found ourselves in a heavenly place, in a lodge under Mount Willhelm. We were greeted as the most honored guests! Mistress Betty couldn't hold back her tears, we managed to become friends last year, when I spent a lot of time on her property. Here we were waiting for a great service, which you absolutely do not expect in this remote part of the world. A huge number of flowers, paths strewn with hydrangea petals, a new lodge where each participant got a personal room, delicious trout from his own farm! I don't even want to go to the mountain tomorrow. But of course we will go. First, we will have a few hours of  walk to the base camp and swimming in a clear lake.

Guides Boris Egorov and Olga Rumyantseva.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, head of the 8000 Club expedition on Dhaulagiri, reports from Nepal:

 If you suddenly lost us, know that everything is fine with us! From 4 to 6 May, the previously slightly ill head of the group, Lyudmila Korobeshko, went to catch up with acclimatization, for two nights in C1 (5700) and C2 (6300). The main part of the expedition to Dhaulagiri, which had previously completed the entire acclimatization program, also did not waste time. We explored the surroundings under the guidance of Igor Smirnov. We built stone towers under the leadership of Volodya Belkovich (although we expect something else from him).  Rocks and crashed helicopters were explored under the guidance of mountaineering geologist Vasily Kernitsky. We tried to lead a more sporty lifestyle under the guidance of the snow leopard Yuri Lukyanov. We spent a shock Easter with colored eggs and cakes, and also shot films under the guidance of the indefatigable Irina Zisman.

Today, immediately after my descent to the base camp, our sirdar and I made plans for the assault. So far they are very optimistic and look like this.  Early tomorrow morning on May 7, the fix-rope team and our sirdar with several Sherpas go up and will try to reach Camp 3 and hang ropes to the summit by May 9.

We are going out on May 9th with the expectation of being on top on May 12th. The forecasts are not the most rosy yet - from today it snows every day, but there is almost no wind. Let's hope for the best 🙏

Hello everyone!  Koni-Yaki's group had a busy day today. First, we got to the Garakshep settlements, had a meal and then went to the EVEREST base camp. There we were greeted with delicious cookies with condensed milk and tea. (We ate everything). Someone even had a check-up with Dr. Selivanov. On the way back, the weather turned a little worse, but this did not prevent us from returning to the lodge.  Tonight, part of the group goes out to Kala Patthar.

The guides Sergey Avtomonov and Daria Goryacheva were in touch.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition, reports from Nepal:

Christ is risen! Today, Alexander Abramov's team on Everest made an acclimatization climb to the base of the section of the route called "Lhotse wall". It started snowing. Visibility is gone. We went down to Camp 2 and celebrated Easter here.

The entire Lhotse wall was covered in ice. And stones were flying down the slope. Now everything is covered with snow. It's good. The stones will not fly. But it will be avalanche-prone.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Good afternoon, dear friends!

  For some reason, I couldn't transmit the information in time, but we, the 8000 Club group, are doing well. So, I'm reproducing the chronology of current events. At that time, when everyone was still asleep, our group of workers went to the parade at the crack of dawn on May 1 with the slogans "peace, labor May", but got lost and climbed the Khumbu icefall at night. So with jokes and a good mood, and favorable weather, we came to the first camp. In the evening, the wind picked up, which fluttered our tents and banners all night. By morning, the vestibule of only one tent had burst. Marching so joyfully and merrily, we met our holiday. 

 May 2 turned out to be a good day too, the weather is not very hot, otherwise you can roast yourself on this section of the way. The site is quite simple and safe, we come to the second camp (6500), everything is organized at the highest level and plus faster Internet.

  May 3 turned out to be a good day too, we're just lucky.  We get up slowly, have breakfast and go to the third camp. The task is not easy, it is necessary to overcome a steep ice slope, and most importantly, do not get hit by free-flying stones. But it bypassed us, and we successfully cross the boundary of 7 thousand above sea level. We safely descend to Camp 2 and have a second overnight stay at 6500. The third camp has not been set up due to strong winds and will be set up just before the assault. 

  On May 4, we collect our clothes, ourselves, have breakfast and slowly begin the descent to the base camp, where we are met by the camp administrator Lena, a hot shower, and delicious food.

  May 5 is a holiday - Christ is risen, and we are greeted festively in the morning by Sherpas with decorated Easter eggs. After a long and hard work, especially since the weather is starting to deteriorate, we decided to fly to Namche Bazaar for a vacation. The loss of height of two kilometers and the restoration of strength is necessary for high-altitude ascents. The participants feel great.

The 7 Summits Club has always been at the forefront of the technical development of the Everest base camp. The first attempt to conduct Internet broadcasts from a high-altitude base was carried out back in 2006. These are already legends. A new step has been taken this year. High-speed Internet has reached not only the base camp, but also Camp 2 at 6600. We get an absolutely television picture from the base camp. A fantasy that has become reality.

Nastya Kuznetsova: news from Nepal, the Everchess 2024 team or "Your own board".

Nepal, Everchess 2024 team, Namche – Deboche.

Today was a rhododendron fantastic trek! The team made the march from Namche Bazaar (3450 m) to Deboche (3850 m) through a rhododendron flowering forest. According to the participants, it was an easy route compared to yesterday's acclimatization (aka rest day).

Later in the evening, another dream of some participants came true. First, we could have a cup of freshly brewed coffee with fresh pastries.

And secondly, we visited the famous Tibetan monastery of Tinboche, where we managed to see the footprints of the lama on the stone, and we also received a blessing from a Buddhist monk for our team.

In the evening after dinner, the trekker team decided to hold their alternative highest-altitude tournament at the Everest base camp, but not in chess, but in dixie cards.

Tomorrow we will go to Feriche (4,200 m). Your guides are Valery Myasoedov, Andrey Berezin, Anastasia Kuznetsova.