Asia - Page 28

There are only a few days left before the start of our Everest 2024 expeditions. Sherpa teams are busy preparing the route, setting up the base camp. And future climbers are going on a long journey, completing work and family affairs. Now we have the opportunity to present the participants of the ascent of Mount Everest under the program "VIP Ascent of Mount Everest (8848 m) with a man of legend - Alexander Abramov.

Andrey Golov. An IT entrepreneur. "I'm going to the top for the third time to put an end to this story. Last time I reached 8,300, but Abramov gave me a medal, I'm going to repay my debts!"

Mountain experience: Elbrus, Kazbek, trekking in Nepal, all the main volcanoes of Ecuador, Lenin Peak, touching Everest.

Elizaveta Berezina. Lawyer. "I'm going to Mount Everest because I believe in my strength. This year everything has coincided - there is an opportunity, time and desire." Mountain experience: 2nd grade in mountaineering, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Lenin Peak

Galymzhan Kuspanov. Businessman. "The goal is to see our beautiful Planet with your own eyes from the highest peak of the world, feel the Greatness of the Creator and give praise to the Almighty! To do an important, meaningful and unforgettable thing in your life. This will be the fourth peak, if God wills, and there are three more ahead." Mountain experience: Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua.

Andrey Nybauer. "I want to complete the 7 PEAKS project"

Mountain experience: Elbrus, Kazbek, Cala Pathar, Island Peak, San Francisco, Ojos Del Salado, Aconcagua only up to 6000m, Kilimanjaro

Alexey Aksenov. Mountain experience: Vinson Massif, Lenin Peak, Ararat, Aconcagua

Herman Koshelev. Businessman. "I'm going to Mount Everest to make sure that the impossible is possible!" Mountain experience: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Island Peak

Nikolai Shipilov.

Andrey Fedorov. Director of the Zemberi Real Estate Agency. "Because it's scary." Mountain experience: Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Island Peak, Aconcagua.

Dmitry Moskalev.  President of the Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing of the city of Moscow. Mountain experience: Everest climber, Shisha Pangma, K2. Completed the 7 Summits project.

The guide team:

Alexander Abramov is a guide, the head of the expedition, a twelve–time climber of Mount Everest.

Elena Abramova - Base Camp Manager

Andrey Selivanov is a doctor.

Ilya Gladkikh is a videographer.

The group, which will work under the program of the Club 8000 project with the head Viktor Volodin, will work in parallel with the team of Alexander Abramov.

Viktor Volodin – guide, head of the expedition, climbed all the Pamir seven thousand meters, pioneered the northern wall of Mount Everest; pioneered the Lhotse Srednaya; pioneered the Western Wall on K2, was twice on the summit of Mount Everest, Manaslu.

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Denis Grachev. Organization and security. "Expectations are to climb to the Top and go down to the bar"

Mountain experience: Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Denali, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Pichincha, Ilinica Norte, Chimborazo, Vinson, Kosciusko.

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Konstantin Simon. Director of the company for the construction of fiber-optic communication lines. "I am waiting for a new experience and unforgettable impressions from climbing"

Mountain experience: 1st class in mountaineering, Lenin Peak, Khan Tengri, Peak of Communism.

Leonid Korablev. I am engaged in construction. "I want to go there, climb to the top and descend safely"

Mountain experience: Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Aconcagua.

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Sergey Mikhalev. A pensioner of the Ministry of Internal Affairs,

Mountain experience: 1st class in classical mountaineering, Korzhenevskaya, Communism to Dushanbe, Lenin, Elbrus in January.

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Adrian Ahritculesei - Romania.

Mining experience: completed the project of 7 Volcanoes, ascended Aconcagua.

Artyom Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

 Hello to the 7 Summits Club! A ski-touring expedition to Asia's highest volcano, Mount Demavend, has ended. The weather has repelled our attempt at climbing, but we will be back. The team is already going home today. Yesterday we spent time on tours of Tehran, mostly wandering around the Grand Bazaar. And in the evening, at a gala dinner, we celebrated our successes and gained invaluable experience.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

 Greetings from Iran from the ski-tour team of on Demavend! Today was the most important day of our trip - we went out early in the morning to storm the summit. The weather forecast showed some kind of small window with a decrease in wind strength. So it was, but only for an hour. And then the storm started. They retreated at about an altitude of 5150m. There is a reserve day tomorrow, but perhaps not - the wind is 95km/h in the forecast. But none of the participants were upset, it was interesting and there is a reason to return.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

 Hello 7 Summits Club! The skitur Damavand expedition continues. We spent the second day in the vicinity of the Tochal ski resort. We caught good weather again in the afternoon, walked the species ring through the nearest ridge. And after dark, we checked our readiness for a night out on the Demavend - we went to the top of the Mount Tochal. Caught wind gusts up to 60km/h. As a result, we are ready to start climbing Damavand.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

 Ski-tour expedition on Damavand. We had the first active day of the expedition. Already in the mountains. In the morning, we had a little skiing at pistes of the resort. And after lunch we climbed on ski the nearest peak.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Iran:

Greetings to the 7 Summits Club from Iran! We are opening the climbing season on Demavend.  We coped with the first task - we arrived and walked around Tehran. The palace, the national museum, a TV tower with a rotating restaurant. And now let's go to the mountains. By the way, on skis, we still have a ski expedition to Demavend!

 Preparations have begun for our huge expedition to Mount Everest this year. 25 Sherpas are collecting cargo. The day after tomorrow, they fly to the Everest Base Camp. The Sherpas still have to level the glacier and set up camp. They will have a whole month to do this.

And our participants arrive only on April 12th.

It all started with an August 2022 video message to me from Alexander Abramov and Fyodor Konyukhov.

They were then "sitting" with a group of climbers on Mount Damavand in Iran. And, as usually happens, there was a conversation about the 14x8000 program, its implementation in the world and in our country. It turned out that I had been the leader of this program for 21 years and there was "no one close", but at the same time I had "stopped" high-altitude mountaineering since 2016.

 They called for "shaking up the old days", making another attempt to climb K2, and took over the organization and financing.

I replied to him: Alex, hello everyone! I am glad to see and hear! You don't let me live up to my age!

Yes, let the young people be puzzled by the question and solve it! It's so cool!

And I'll bend over there and fuck who needs it! I will also make a negative image for Russia! Hugging everyone!

In previous years, there were also conversations on this topic, with the same Abramov, with the famous athlete and guide Sergei Baranov. Sergey, addressing me, said - Listen, now mountaineering has become not the one that you "walked". Everything has become easier, go ahead, and I'll find the money.  But the brakes were "sitting" inside me and I refused.

 But this time Alex convinced me - Listen, Serega, I saw how some girls could not overcome the Baltoro glacier, walked, "died". And then I find out that they climbed K2! The mountain has changed, everything will be fixed, you will be helped by Sherpas to carry the cargo, plus oxygen. This year (2022) 180 people did it!

The last phrase especially impressed me.

- How is it, did they put an "elevator" there!?

I was all in doubt and decided for myself that I needed to "check" my body. Judging of the Kazbek races was scheduled for September. And I decided to make a full-fledged ascent to the top from the Karmadon gorge along the standard route 2B of the difficulty category.

Polish climber Bartholomei (Bartek) Paczoski has climbed with the 7 Summits Club not the first time. Both on Everest and on K2, he proved himself a reliable comrade, a strong athlete, a friendly and sociable person of high culture. We are extremely grateful to him for his loyalty to our friendship, for the fact that he joined the Russian company without any apparent doubts. Well, for the photos! We didn't even expect such a gift! A great warm-up before the upcoming premiere of the film "The High Altitude Gene 2. The Mountain of all Mountains"

 The full gallery is here…

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! The trekking part of the program ended, then the climbing part of the program began. A part of members of the group "SpeakegsY" climbed the summit of Lobuche East. An interesting and technical route.  Lots and lots of fixed ropes. By which we have successfully ascended to the goal. The weather was just ringing today: sunny and windless. But we still had to work hard. Now we are already in the village of the same name Lobuche. Next, we plan to fly to Lukla, and from there to Kathmandu.

In the spring of 2024, an International Chess Tournament will be held on Everest with the support of FIDE.  According to the scheme "Mountaineering + Chess". The tournament will begin at the Everest Base Camp with 1/4 finals. Then each new round will take place in the next high-altitude camp. The finalists will play in the Everest assault camp and then will have the opportunity to climb Everest. The prize fund of the tournament is $ 150,000

If you want to participate, register on the website of the 7 Summits Club.

The organizers are "7 Summits Club" and "Security Code".

 The video shows the President of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov and the CEO of the Security Code company Andrey Golov.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! Our group "SpeakegsY" reached Gorakshep. We went to the Everest base camp yesterday, and this morning we climbed Kala Pathar. Now a group is already in Lobuche.  Part of the group completed the program and went by helicopter to Lukla, and from there to Kathmandu.  The rest of the participants will climb into the assault camp of the Lobuche East tomorrow.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! Another day of trekking, and another new altitude. Today, the group "SpeakegsY" reached the village of Lobuche, height 4900. On the way, we visited the memorial to the lost climbers on Everest and Ama-Dablam.  Tomorrow we go to Gorakshep, from where - to the Everest Base Camp. 

 The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! Our group continues walking towards the Everest Base Camp.  In the morning we left Namche Bazaar and went to the village of Deboche. The path ran through rhododendron forests. The trail is very busy, along the way and a lot of tourists were moving up and down. Tomorrow we have to reach the village of Periche.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal!  Another day was spent by the group "SpeakegsY" in Namche Bazaar. The day was devoted to exploring the surroundings. First we went up to the Everest View Hotel, which offers a view of Everest. Then we went down to Kumjung, a village located near Namche Bazaar. Also in the local monastery they looked at the scalp of a yeti. Then we returned to our hotel in Namche Bazaar. Tomorrow we have a move to Deboche.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! A new group of our company gathered in full force in the capital of Nepal, and early this morning went to Lukla by plane. And then on foot we reached the village of Phakding. After lunch, we also visited the Taktul Monastery. Tomorrow we go to Namche Bazaar, where we will spend two days.

On October 24, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800 m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places."

Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru ): The route "Katana" to Rovaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword…

 When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fangi in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks.

 Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sl. M4, M5. we all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.

 The idea of the first ascent in Rowaling is not the only idea, I have a lot of them.  Perhaps this idea, despite the crazy logistics, vibrated the most strongly and Alexey was easy on the upswing.

 In general, he is an outstanding climber, I do not understand why he is underestimated in the St. Petersburg Federation, probably, as always, personal motives.

Thanks to Vento, Bask Co and personally to my friend Konstantin Babkin, who ordered me a painting, and then helped me a lot in financing this expedition!

 Go to the mountains as to a temple and do not look for dividends, Its will decide for themselves how sincere you are, there is not for  money and fame here, but moreover, super-existence....

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

 Namaste from Nepal! The group "UFO and He" today, October 27, early in the morning climbed to the top of Mera Peak with a height of 6461 meters. The weather was almost perfect. From the summit, we had views of 5 Himalayan eight-thousand-meter Summits: Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest and Cho-Oyu. After the summit, we descended, with a short stop at the assault camp, to the village of Khare. The flight to Lukla is scheduled for tomorrow.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal! Today our super-group "Gornyashki" finished the program by climbing the Kala-Pathar mountain (5642m). A night out and a frosty morning gave us an unforgettable view of the majestic mountains Everest (8848), Lhotse (8516), Nuptse (7745), Ama Dablam (6814) and Pumori (7161). But there was one more bonus as a flight to Kathmandu by helicopter. Unforgettable views of mountainous Nepal accompanied us throughout the flight. See you in the mountains! The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from Nepal! Today our super-group "Gornyashki" has reached its goal, we have climbed to the Everest base camp (5364m.) And tomorrow early in the morning, we will have another bonus - climbing Mount Kala Pathar (5500m.). The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.