Asia - Page 32

Artem Rostovtsev, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Georgia:

A group with an unexpected name "Dog’s Heart ", began its expedition to Mount Kazbek. Late yesterday evening, with a little adventure, we gathered in Gudauri at the Marco Polo Hotel. And today we have already moved from the town of Kazbegi to the refuge at an altitude of 3000m.  Tomorrow we will step on the ice and climb up to the Meteostation Refuge. And here's the thing, it turns out we get to a important date – the 100th anniversary of the first Soviet expedition on Kazbek.

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! On the second day, the "Children of Arbat" began the acclimatization part of the program. Without fuss and haste, "yavosh-yavosh", as they say here, we went up by cable car to the alpine hotel "Tochal" at an altitude of 3500 m. They passed a mandatory medical examination and settled in. We had lunch with delicious chicken kebab, let's say, as an introduction to the basics of Iranian cuisine, where a wide variety of kebabs prevail. After lunch, we rested, went for a walk to the summit of Tochal. Again, slowly, at a calm pace, we went to the top, spent half an hour there, and slightly tired, but satisfied, returned to the hotel. I think that a hot shower and a soft bed at 3500 m will make our acclimatization even more comfortable. Tomorrow we will move to Larijan, a village with hot springs and authentic kebab.

The Omatikayi group made an attempt to climb to the top of Khan Tengri on August 22. As the weather worsened (snowfall and strong wind), the only right decision was made to turn around and go down to the assault Camp -3.

If we had stayed on the slopes for another couple of hours, we would have been hit by a squall wind that tore us off our feet. After the descent, the wind continued all night. Tents were torn. There was enlightenment in the morning, but the strong wind continued.

On August 23, there was a long and dangerous descent down through the so-called "bottleneck". The clouds did not allow us to see those terrible snow eaves that hung over us. A couple of hours and we exhaled, went down to a flat glacier. And then we walked 10 km along the glacier to the base camp on South. And there, finally, delicious food, a warm bed and a view of the beautiful Peak Pobeda (Victory)!!!

On August 24, departure to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek.

Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.

Salam from Iran!   The group "16 happy Persian Lions" of the 7 Summits Club is finishing its program of climbing the Damavand volcano! Time flew by like a flash, but we managed a lot! We got acquainted with the sights of Tehran and the national cuisine.

We visited the Tochal ski resort and climbed two acclimatization local peaks of 3860m and 3964m.  We visited the Iranian mountaineering federation and rested in the hot springs of Larijan at the foot of Damavand. We passed high-altitude acclimatization and met fellow countrymen of servicemen who participated in international army climbing competitions on Damavand (similar ones are held in Russia, on Elbrus). We enjoyed delicious food from our chefs and tasted perhaps the highest mountain buffet.

We climbed the highest volcano in Asia, the peak of Damavand and tasted sweet melon there, which was brought by our doctor Sergey (his hundreds of stories throughout the program kept the whole team in a great mood). By the way, he spent examination right at the top by measuring pressure, oxygenation and pulse on Prof.equipment!

After going down to Tehran, they held an award ceremony.  Everyone is happy!

And yet, we have a tour of the ancient capitals of Persia ahead of us! So, the journey continues!

Guides Valery Myasoyedov and Evgeny Fedyunin.

Salam from Iran!  Today, the group of "16 happy Persian Lions" of the 7 Summits Club made an ascent on the Mount  of Damavand (5671 m), the highest volcano in Asia! The dome was smoking fumaroles today like never before… Unfortunately, at 5100 one participant stopped climbing.

The rest of the group at 12-30 was standing at the maximum height of the crater!  I was surprised by Dr. Sergey, who unexpectedly treated everyone to a delicious melon on the top of the volcano!

Guides Valery Myasoyedov and Evgeny Fedyunin.

 Salam from Iran!  Today, the group of "16 happy Persian Lions" of the 7 Summits Club started in the direction of the Demavend base camp called Bargoh-E-Sevom (4150 m).

At first, there was a drop of up to 3000 m on local jeeps. In a camp with a mosque of 3020m, luggage was loaded onto mules and trekking started. “Pole pole” tactics were correct again, we walked without choking and without losing our breath. Now there are more people on the hut, there is a large tent camp around.

Our chefs never cease to amaze! Baked stuffed chicken is, of course, SOMETHING for 4150! Now we are resting and preparing for tomorrow's acclimatization day.

Guides Valery Myasoyedov, Evgeny Fedyunin.

Greetings from Iran! Today, the group of "16 happy Persian Lions" of the 7 Summits Club climbed our second acclimatization peak - Tochal (3964m) in the morning. The majestic Damavand and the stunning beauty of the Elburs mountain range opened up to us. After the photo shoot, we went down to the cable car and along it to the valley of Tehran.

Now we are moving closer to our main goal - the volcano Damavand.  Not far from the shelter of the Iranian Mountaineering Federation in Polur, where they usually spend the night before the start of the Damavand, we stopped for lunch at the best restaurant serving the juiciest lamb on a bone.

An info briefing and a traditional group photo with the owner of the shelter took place in Polur.

An hour later we found ourselves in hotels with hot springs.  At dinner, in a cool kebab shop, we congratulated our guide Valera on his birthday!

Your guides are Valery Myasoyedov, Evgeny Fedyunin.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

The group "Van Cats" was returning to the city of Van today. We woke up in the morning, had breakfast and went to Ishaq Pasha's palace. Then we walked around the Bayazet fortress. We took everything we needed for a picnic and went to Lake Van to swim, barbecue and drink whatever we want. And in the evening, after we bought up, we went to a restaurant to receive well-deserved medals! All who ascended the summit got their due. We're going home tomorrow. At the same time, we are finishing the season in Ararat and I am also returning home!

The guide of the 7 Summits  Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from Iran:

All Salam from Tehran!  A new program of climbing the Damavand 5671m has started. Today was an oversaturated day full of impressions. A short rest after an international flight and a full immersion in the flavor of the hot eastern city.

National cuisine in the oldest restaurant of the capital, in the Grand Bazaar area, in the historic building of the first bank in Iran.  Golestan Palace with diamond and mirror halls, royal gifts for the Shah - very impressive for its luxury and immodesty!

Our Maryam, professor of the University Department of the Russian language and an expert in local history, as always at the height of his professionalism! The welcome dinner, without breaking the tradition, was held in the panoramic restaurant of the Milad TV tower, overlooking the evening lights of Tehran, at an altitude of 290m. Tomorrow we start the active part of the program!

The guides of the group are Valery Myasoyedov and Evgeny Fedyunin.

The guide of the 7 Summits  Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

 Ur-raa!  The group "Van cats" ascended on the summit of  Mount Ararat. Today was a beautiful weather and we quickly climbed to the highest point! At the top we took out a bottle of "Ararat" and tasted it well! We started thinking that the name of our band could be changed. The group did not ascend in full, but everyone is happy.  In the evening we continued tasting different types of alcohol!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Greetings to all from the slopes of Ararat! Today, the group "Van cats" continued to acclimatize. We had breakfast and went out to 4200. It was very hot again today. We walked, drank a lot of water and tried not to hurry. Admired the views, filmed them. We reached the assault camp in 4 hours, then two hours down and came to the base camp. There was even a hot shower in the camp.  We ate, bathed and began to relax. In the evening there was a delicious barbecue dinner and now a full rest.

News from Khan Tengri Peak (from August 15). "Greetings to all from the Khan-Tengri base camp from the Omatikayi group! We went down from the acclimatization rotation. We managed to climb up to the level of 6000 meters. Yesterday there was a strong wind on the descent. We felt like flying snakes on the fixed ropes, there was a feeling that the mountain wanted to throw us off its slopes. Today is our day of rest. The sun is shining again."

Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

The group "Van Cats" from the slopes of the sacred Mount Ararat.  I'm not a cat myself, but they chose the name, so they chose it. Today we saw Ararat for the first time and immediately went up to the first camp at 3200. We were tormented by terrible heat all day, but we stubbornly went up. However, almost at the base camp, we were offered to get to the first camp by car. And part of the group took advantage of this offer. But it won't affect acclimatization, so it's not a big deal. In the evening we had a delicious meal and checked the state of health. Everyone feels good, some participants have even higher oxygen than me! Tomorrow we will go to acclimatization for 4200. The weather promises to be hot again!

Good news: China has confirmed permission to conduct an expedition on Mount Everest from the north. And we are already accepting applications for the spring of 2024! Dreams come true!

From 2003 to 2019 (with a couple of breaks), the 7 Summits Club organized expeditions to Mount Everest from the North Side, from Tibet. Naturally, for 15 seasons we have lived in these places so much that they have become our own, home. The cataclysms of recent years have forced us to relocate to the South Side. Of course, we have settled in here enough. But everyone remembered the past years with some nostalgia. When we left, we promised to return, and we will fulfill this promise. Join our expedition!

The route from the north is very different from the route from the south. They actually have little in common. So those who walked from the south may well supplement their acquaintance with Everest by visiting its northern slopes.

What are the advantages of Tibet.

Firstly, actually in the opportunity to get acquainted with this Tibet. And  this Tibet, is unique and unforgettable. We start our route in its capital Lhasa and the way to the base camp passes through places where the old and the new, primitive and high-tech, bizarrely overlap.

A highway approaches the base camp from the north. What advantages it gives can be listed for a very long time, without naming everything. In any case, the accommodation here is more comfortable and the rest in the base camp is of higher quality. We are free to go down on rest and buy everything we need.

The route from the north (Mallory and Irvine's way) is longer and physically more difficult than from the south. But it is practically devoid of objective dangers, which are in abundance on the other side of the mountain.

It is practically guaranteed that there will be an order of magnitude fewer climbers on the northern route than on the southern route. And this is important both in terms of security and in terms of personal emotions.

News from Khan Tengri: Omatikayi Group sends greetings from Khan Base Camp! The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the streams are murmuring, apparently spring has come! Today we worked out the fixed ropes equipment for descent and ascent, learned what a carabine brake is on descent and slow gas on ascent. Everyone feels good. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will go to Camp-1 with an overnight stay. Wait for messages! Guides: Viktor Volodin, Nikita Slotin.

Greetings to all from the Northern Inylchek Base Camp from the team of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 CLUB!

"Yesterday we moved from Bishkek to Karkara. Our road ran along the Chui Valley past the beautiful Issyk-Kul Lake (translated as "hot lake"). Today, our team flew by helicopter to the Khan Tengri base camp. We settled into our comfortable camp, had lunch and dismantled the equipment. Today we are resting, and tomorrow, as an acclimatization, we plan to walk higher to the Camp 1. Congratulations to everyone on the International Mountaineering Day! Group guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin".

 "Greetings from the Base Camp in Moskvin's Glade, which is located in distant Tajikistan! We are already warm and safe, and on August 3 we stood at Summit of the Peak of Communism (7495 m) — the highest point of the Soviet Union!

The ascent was not easy: the Base Camp - Summit - Base Camp route takes 8-9 days, but successful acclimatization, competent planning, and most importantly, the weather factor were on our side. It was the right decision to unite with other groups on the day of the assault, snow this year is waist-deep almost all over the route, a small group cannot overcome such an obstacle.

19 people stormed out of Camp 4 under Dushanbe Peak at an altitude of 7000 m. Up to 7400 m we walked all together, and then our group, having passed the most difficult section first, reached the Crest and at 12.40 (local time) were the first to reach Summit!

The panorama from the Roof of the World, as the Pamirs are called, was amazing! Imagine, our 8000 Club flag didn't even need to be stretched, it was almost calm... This doesn't happen very often.

There was no limit to the delight and emotions of our Anastasia Panfilova!  She managed to make both peaks this season: the Peak of Korzhenevskaya and the Peak of Communism. The photos turned out great, for the first time I decided to number them so that our friends of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club could appreciate the beauty of each moment"

Guide Valery Myasoedov

 At the Peak of Communism on August 3

 Selfies on top

 The Passage of the Summit Ridge. Requires maximum concentration

 Descent from the Summit Ridge. The most dangerous place

 The beginning of the descent from the peak, 7495 m

 Exit to the Ridge, 7400 m

 Assault camp under the Peak of Dushanbe, 7000 m

 At the Base Camp, a few minutes after returning. Happy climbers

 Peak of Communism from the crest of Korzhenevskaya Peak