Asia - Page 33

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Ararat is in touch! It's been a long day. We went up to the assault camp, spent the night there, and at two o'clock in the morning went out to climb. We had the safest possible team: two guides and two participants. As a result, having split up, everyone reached the top at their own pace. Then there was a descent to the assault camp, where we rested a little, packed up and went to the base camp. Tonight we will spend the night at the base camp.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

 Ararat is in touch, we continue our ascent. Today we went out for acclimatization. Our small group feels confident. We go well, admire the views, chat. We came to the assault camp, rested and went down. At the base camp, they cooked a ram and set a table for us outside. So we had a barbecue in nature. In the evening, as usual, we chatted before going to bed. There was also a group of Iranians in the camp. They added a lot of color, tried to teach us Iranian, but we didn't succeed. Tomorrow we go to a group camp and then to the top.

This morning our team left the base camp and began the long journey back home. They will have to walk the familiar path along the Baltoro glacier to Ascole, the first settlement to which the highway approaches. We remind you that on July 27 and 28, two teams of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ascended to the top of K2 in the number of 8 participants, 2 high-altitude operators and 10 Sherpas. There are 20 people under the leadership of Lyudmila Korobeshko. The ascent took place in bad weather, with a poor condition of the route. A lot of material has been shot for the future film "The Hшпр Altitude Gene 2. K2". We are waiting for the heroes at home!

Group No. 3 consisting of Lyudmila Korobeshko, Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev and Arno Ter-Saakov safely descended to the base camp today. The weather on the mountain predictably and finally deteriorated, the descent against the background of incredible fatigue was not easy. But now when everyone is assembled, you can celebrate, receive awards and congratulations. And get ready to go home in a good mood. We are waiting! The participants of the first-second group have already started the trek down the glacier.

 Photos and videos from the RD Studio team.

There is still a little time left before the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 will be completed. It is necessary that the third team (Lyudmila Korobeshko, Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev, Arno Ter-Saakov and their escorts) descend safely from Camp-2, where they stay after reaching the summit, to the base camp. The happy winners from the first two groups, Ekaterina Safronova, Maria Oglobleva, Dmitry Moskalev and Bartolomey Pachosky, have already been welcomed at the base. Before relaxation, there is a little patience and a little luck left. We are waiting for the heroes!

On July 27 and 28, two teams of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ascended to the top of K2 in the number of 8 participants, 2 high-altitude operators and 10 Sherpas. There are 20 people under the leadership of Lyudmila Korobeshko. The ascent took place in bad weather, with a poor condition of the route. But we did it. The start was from the Camp-3, as the weather did not allow the route to be fully processed before the start. 

Nevertheless, the whole team of climbers reached the top.

This is a great achievement, since Mount K2 is the most difficult eight-thousandth mountain in the world. And this is the most massive ascent of K2 in the history of Russian mountaineering.

Tonight, third part of our team started for the summit push. The group consisting of: Lyudmila Korobeshko, Arno Ter-Saakov, Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman and our high-altitude operator Luis Lopez.

The summiters of K2 of the first wave Ekaterina Safronova and Maria Oglobleva safely descended to the Camp-2.  Dmitry Moskalev and Bartolomey Pachosky stayed overnight at Camp 3. Everyone is resting. Tomorrow they plan to go down to the Base Camp.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Hooray! Ararat let us in and let us go! Today at 7 am the whole team was standing on the top of Ararat!!! Despite the fact that it was not easy for everyone, but we got there quickly enough - in 5 hours! The weather pleased us, at first there was a light wind, and when we reached the top it ended and it gave us more time for a photo on the top. True, there were a lot of people, but this is a small problem. On the descent, the weather got a little worse, but it didn't change our mood. We were very tired during the ascent, so we descended slowly and carefully. As it turned out, not in vain. A member of the German team fell and injured his head while we were there. In the evening we went down to the base camp. We're spending the night here today, and tomorrow we're going to the hotel.

Message from RD Studia: There is a K2 summit! Maria Oglobleva, Ekaterina Safronova and high-altitude operator Vladimir Kotlyar just now have climbed to the top of the most difficult eight-thousandth mountain in the world! Good luck to them on the descent!

A little bit later. Dmitry Moskalev and Bartholomew Pachosky are on top! The weather is getting worse, they are waiting for an unsafe descent. We pray!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:.

 Ararat is in touch. Today we went up to the assault camp. We were walking at a good pace, even faster than yesterday.  At night we go out to climb. Not everyone, alas, feels well, but we are preparing for the ascent. In the evening we watched a beautiful sunset. The weather promises to be good! We drove the crampons, packed up, went to bed to go to the summit at night. We plan to leave at 2 a.m.

Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition on K2, reports from Pakistan, from Camp-3:

At 18:00, the first team left the third camp to storm the summit. Right in front of them is a team of Sherpas hanging ropes. There is a lot of snow. The Sherpas failed to set up Camp 4 due to bad weather. The season on K2 is very difficult. Weekly snowfalls. Short windows of good weather. Now the weather is average lousy. It's snowing at Camp 3. Although all the surrounding peaks are open. We pray for the friends. Good luck today!

The second team is planning an assault tomorrow evening.

Camp-3

Today, the third group of our expedition went up from Camp-2 to Camp-3. In the photo, overcoming the Black Pyramid

Photo from RD Studio. The weather is good below, all the mountains are open, except K2

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

News from Ararat today we went for acclimatization to 4200 to a high-altitude camp. While we were going hard, we came up with the name of the group, but they never came up with it.  We reached the camp quickly in 3 hours, the group is cheerful, all well done, we walk in a friendly company. We sat, rested in the upper camp, went down, got caught in the rain a little, but not much.  We had a delicious dinner and are now resting before going to the assault camp tomorrow. Tomorrow we will spend the night in the upper camp and go out to climb.

Well, the ascent continued. The first two groups spend the night in Camp-3 (7400), the third – in Camp-2 (6600). The path to Camp 4 has already been trodden and equipped with fixed ropes. Tomorrow, the leading team of Sherpas will continue processing the route in order to reach the top on July 27.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko (Group-3):

They went out to storm, moving to Camp 2 on 6600. There was no good weather for a week. It seems to be getting better now.

Now at lunchtime on July 25, we came to Camp 2 on K2.

Vladimir Kotlyar, high-altitude operator (Group-1):

Today, according to the forecast, there should be bad weather, but to our joy, the forecast has not yet been justified.

At six in the morning, we got out of the tents, put on the crampons and harness, then and climbed up in the hope for the best.

If this weather lasts for four days, then we have every chance. There is a mountain, you have to climb!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Ararat is in touch, we continue climbing. The program of the new group has begun. We gathered in the city of Van, spent the night in a hotel and moved to Dogubayazit. We drove along a picturesque road along the lake to the mountains. We changed the car, got to the horses and then walked for 4 hours to the base camp, where we had a delicious lunch and rested. In the evening we admired the lights of the city and now we are resting before tomorrow's acclimatization rotation. And we are thinking about the name of the group.

We haven't waited for good weather yet, but there is still hope. Today our third group went up to Camp-1. And groups 1 and 2 continued to "sit out" in Camp-2.

Tomorrow is a key and decisive day - either up or down to rest and wait for the weather window.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan:

Greetings from Tajikistan! Sorry for the long forced silence, there was a problem with the Internet in a remote mountainous area on Moskvin's Glade. It's time to call our group "In search of Wi-Fi". During this time, we completed the acclimatization program and on July 22 we climbed the Peak of Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m. Acclimatization went according to plan, the day of the assault was chosen correctly, almost the entire group successfully reached the top. Unfortunately, one participant felt unwell in the third camp at 6300 m and nobly refused the assault, saying that he would not prevent the main group from reaching the top. The first half of the day delighted us with fantastic landscapes at the Peak of Communism and the entire ridge route of Korzhenevskaya Peak. And in the afternoon, on the contrary, it was covered with clouds, which made it easier for us to descend. The team showed indomitable character and willpower. Together with six other climbers, we were practically the first commercial group of this season on the summit that day. Before us, only a team of guides and Aksai Travel porters came to the top. As communication improves, there will also be a video as a separate block. In the meantime, we are happy and enjoying our rest at the Base Camp.

Greetings to all from Ascole from the "Don't even think" team!

Since we left the K2 base camp, our trek has been going through torrential rains every day. But everyone has their advantages: firstly, there is no sweltering heat, and secondly - the mountains surrounding us, wrapped in clouds, look quite gloomy, but no less beautiful.

Yesterday was a long and physically energy—consuming day - we walked 22 km from the Urdukas camp to Paiju. Before reaching a couple of kilometers to the campsite, we made a big halt on the river bank, spread out the mats, lay, chatted, drank tea and looked at the turbulent flow of the dark waters of the river. It was great!

Yesterday we spent the last night in tents, and early this morning we went out towards Ascole. We walked 14 km at a brisk pace in the rain, and then switched to jeeps, which brought us to our destination.

Our caring local partners have sent us the ripest and juiciest mango from Skardu for dinner!!! So today we have a real holiday! Tomorrow we leave for Skardu!

Svetlana Kotlyar and Alexander Spirin were in touch.

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! On 22.07.23, the group in full force at 13:30 stood on the peak with a height of 7134 meters. For many, this height has become a personal record, at which none of the participants is going to stop! We left Camp 3 at 2:00. An unpleasant wind was blowing, but the sky was starry, it remained to trust our gut and forecast. At 8:00 we climbed the 6800 "knife", the sun came out, and life immediately got better. The wind died down, and we began to roast our carcasses, slowly wandering to the top. The ascent from the Plateau of Parachutists was not easy, especially these takeoffs, behind which, as you think, there should be a peak, and there turns out to be another takeoff. And here it is!!! The summit! And on the descent, a bonus was waiting for us - a climb from the jumper to the third camp, to the long-awaited tents... And today our team is already at the height of 3600 in the bar.

Bad weather has descended on K2 again. Rain in the base camp, snow along the route. The first and second groups are together in Camp-2, and the third remained in the ABC Camp. While waiting for news. There is a very strong company of Sherpas on the route, whose task is to make a route to the top. And it is possible that they will succeed.

Today, the final, third group headed by Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko set off on their way to the summit of K2. They will spend the night in the ABC camp and tomorrow they will presumably go up to camp-2.

The first and second group are in Camp-2. Everything is fine with them, tomorrow they will go to the Camp-3.

Vladimir Kotlyar, high-altitude operator: We are in the second camp, altitude 6550. The weather is bad, for the second day in a row. A lot of snow has fallen. Yesterday there were several avalanches along the route, but we were not hooked, almost. We are idling in a tent, baiting stories. Tomorrow we will make our way to Camp-3.