Asia - Page 34

July 20. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The suspense with the fixed ropes is already pretty boring. Therefore, in the morning we went with Abramov to the camps to talk with the leaders. We had a very productive conversation with Ozzy (an Ecuadorian from SST, we had just been to Makalu with him). As a result, at 14.00 in BC K2, a general meeting of all the leaders was held, at which a new team was assembled for hanging the ropes and the release dates of this team were determined - July 22 so that they would come to the top on July 24.

 Based on this, we have developed our plans.

1. Team 1 - Bogomolov, Moskalev, a high-altitude operator and 3 Sherpas are released on July 20. The peak is July 25.
2. Team 1.1 - The twins and Bartek are released on July 21. The peak is July 25.
3. Team 2 - all others are released on July 22. The summit is scheduled for July 26.

By the evening, the first three were on their way.

 The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Greetings from Pakistan from the team "Don't even think!", which got its name closer to the end of the program!  We have reached the goal of our incredible trip to Pakistan: we visited the K2 base camp, met with a team of climbers, our favorite leaders — Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko, shook hands with Sergey Bogomolov, for whom we are very sick and worried!

Together with our trekking group, Valdis Pelsh reached the Base Camp and yesterday the RD Studio crew began shooting eyeliners for the film "High Altitude Gene-2"!

The day before yesterday we moved from Concordia Camp to K2 Base Camp, admiring the stunning views of K2 and Broad Peak on the way, from one look at these mighty giants breathtaking!

We were very warmly welcomed at the camp, the evening was soulful: together with a team of climbers, we played guitar and sang songs.  In the morning, the expedition's doctor, Andrey Selivanov, walked with us to the memorial dedicated to those who died on K2 and Broad Peak.

We spent two nights in the camp, had a good night's sleep and rested before returning.

And now we are back at Camp Concordia and tomorrow we will move to Urdukas.

The guides of the 7 Summits Club are Svetlana Kotlyar and Alexander Spirin.

Deputy head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "Hшпр Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

After breakfast, Alex Abramov arranged oxygen classes. Refreshed our memory of how to use oxygen equipment. And after lunch, the second group of trekkers, led by Sveta Kotlyar and Sasha Spirin, came to visit us. Yead of the RD Studia Valdis Pelsh also arrived with this group. He plans to stay with our expedition and make some live broadcasts for Channel One. The way to us was not easy - 6 long marches under the scorching sun and rains. But the team  overcame it!

In the evening, a "Guitar in a circle" evening was held in a large tent - the trekkers brought with them a guitar bought in Islamabad. We knew that Sveta sings well. But the fact that Dmitry Moskalev has a good voice and a cool repertoire has become a revelation for many.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of the Pamir mountains from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we actively rested. We went for a walk to the lakes, swam and played a little with pebbles, and also fried potatoes... Tomorrow is another day of rest and, according to the plan, on the night of 19-20, we will go to the second camp.

July 12. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The most persistent celebrated the meeting on the Elbe all night - the meeting of our expedition and trekkers. In the morning it snowed again.

The trekkers decided to try to pass through Gondogoro La after all and left our camp at 11 am. And we just got some not very good news from above - our entire Camp-2 was blown away by the wind. 8 tents are missing. 5 seem to have remained. The gas is all gone.

In general, we decided to postpone the exit for one more night. 

 July 13.

Due to the lack of tents, we decided to go out in two groups. The first is 9 participants and 6 Sherpas. This morning, immediately to Camp-1, overnight, then to Camp-2, overnight, then exit to Camp-3 and immediately down. The second group of 3 participants and 2 Sherpas - ABC, C1, C2, down.

 The hurricane raged all night. Our tents were almost torn in the camp. The toilet was torn after all. We got up at 4 in the morning. They tried to put a toilet. In vain. Let's go wake up Vladimir Kotlyar and congratulate him on his birthday. He seemed pleased. At 5 a.m. we went out with a strong wind. By 7 in the morning they came to ABC. We rested a little and went to the first camp. In 4-5 hours we went from 5300 to 6100. There's a problem with places here. There is nowhere to put tents - about 10 tents were barely huddled over the abyss. We were accommodated in 3 tents for 3 participants. And two more Sherpas.

We rest, eat, acclimatize. Tomorrow we will go higher.

 July 14th.

The night in Camp 1 passed quietly. The wind died down. It was even hot. In the morning, everyone woke up long before 7 o'clock - it was at this time that the general rise was planned. We had breakfast and left before 8 am. On the way, we admired the views, who could. The ascent became steeper, there were many rocky areas and mixed. By 11-12 days we came to Camp-2 under the fireplace. It was hardly possible to place 5 tents here. The toilet is a quest again - on a steep slope you have to somehow manage to do something.

After lunch, we decided to make an acclimatization rotation. We climbed 300 meters vertically. On the way, I had to climb the chimney  - everyone was impressed here - 50 meters of almost vertical mixed climbing with flowing ice. But the rest of the route was much simpler and the views are very beautiful - both Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, Chinese Summits were opened…

We went down to dinnertime to our Camp-2. Having dinner, getting ready for bed at 6600. Tomorrow morning we will go down to the BC to rest and prepare for the decisive assault on the summit.

 July 15th.

We woke up at 6600 in Camp-2, again earlier than planned. At 6 o'clock there was a start according to the plan, but most did not sleep well at this height and at 5 in the morning they were ready to go down. The weather in the morning was not very cloudy and windy.

Around 7 a.m., the descent began. Near the first camp we met our second group with Sergey Bogomolov, Dmitry Moskalev and Volodya Kotlyar. They walked briskly up. By 10 a.m. we were at ABC. We drank tea and rode to the sun for lunch. Kristina was waiting for us here with a film crew, Coca-Cola and - most importantly - with compote!!!

We returned almost whole and healthy.  Only Arno was slightly touched by a stone on the descent, another whistled very close to Daniil, and I managed to fall into a crack not far from BC - I got off with one wet foot!

As it turned out, during the three days of our absence from the camp, the popularity of our expedition doctor Andrei Selivanov increased significantly - a Pakistani princess began to come to his office - that's how we dubbed her. In fact, this is a famous Pakistani climber from the family of a Pakistani government official, Naili Kiani. She has already climbed 8 out of 14 eight-thousand meters. Of the Pakistani ones, only Broad Peak remained to her.  And the next morning news came that rescue work was underway on Broad Peak…

 July 16.

In the morning, everyone slept off after a difficult acclimatization exit. Although the weather forecast was expected to be good, it started raining in the morning. By lunchtime, our second group - Sergey, Dmitry and Vladimir - came down to the camp. The guys worked out their program well and returned satisfied with the results.

After lunch, Alina Pekova came to visit us. This modest girl has gone 5 eight-thousand meters in three months and tomorrow she goes to the sixth - Broad Peak. And then - it looks like K2 and further on all 14. What to say? You can only take off your hat!

A beaming doc came to dinner and boasted that he had just pulled out a tooth of one of the Sherpas, who had been suffering with a bad tooth for a long time. In general, our expedition doctor Andrey is a resuscitator. But here in the camp under K2 he has to face various problems to restore the health of participants in fact of all expeditions:

Yesterday I did a blockade to a Pakistani who fell and got a compression fracture; I was struggling with the asthma of a participant from Estonia who went 4 eight-thousandths without oxygen and now wants to go to K2 without oxygen too…

 July 17.

The morning began at 4.00, when a messenger from the trekking group from the Goro II camp came running and said that oxygen and a doctor were urgently needed, as one of the group was ill. Oxygen was sent urgently, and the doctor came down later.

There was a lot of fuss and commotion, but when mobile communication appeared, it turned out that our group of trekkers was already doing well and they were moving normally to Concordia.

In the afternoon, we held talks with our sirdar about plans for installation of high-altitude camps. So far, the ropes are only up to the Camp-3 (7400 m), plus 8 tents and gas flew away from us in the last bad weather, so it's difficult to plan the upper camps. And according to the forecast, the weather will worsen again soon.

But in the evening, the twin sisters pleased us - they cooked stuffed peppers and mimosa salad!

In touch - the leaders of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 Dasha Sivova, guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Already in the capital of Pakistan, we summed up the results of this incredible journey in numbers:

 ⁃ More than 130km has been covered;

 ⁃ Maximum height reached: Gondogoro Pass 5480m;

⁃ Longest crossing of Khuspang-Khushe: 26km.

But the most important thing is the team that has come all this way together!

We discovered the most beautiful places in Pakistan, which took your breath away. We have passed paths that only a few people have walked. Wild and pristine.

Now our team has finally agreed that you need to go trekking to the K2 Base Camp at least once in your life! And this is the most beautiful trekking in the world!

 The group "Me and my young team" led by the highly experienced guide Viktor Volodin entered the walking part of the route on July 6, 2023. First day - transfer to Jula camp (3300 m). The route ran along the Braldu River.

July 7. Transfer to Paiju Camp (3383m). A rocky, sometimes dusty trail rises from the riverbed to the Paiju Glacier. Along the way, there is a view of Paiju Peak (6,600 m) and the Cathedral Towers (6,017 m).

July 8. Exit to the glacier and trek to the Urdukas camp 4050m. The longest march. Rain and lack of visibility prevented seeing the famous Trango and Muztag Towers.

July 9. Trek to the other side of the glacier to the Goro II camp. The weather has improved, some views have opened (Broad Rick, Gasherbrum -IV) M. Goro II is located at an altitude of 4382 m.

July 10. Not a very long walk to the Concordia camp (4600 meters).

July 11. March to the Base camp K2 (5100 m). Meeting with the participants and guides of the expedition on K2.

July 12. Day of rest at Base Camp K2.

July 13. Трек to Ali Camp. At night, exit to the Gondogoro pass (5480 m).

July 14. Descent from the Gondogoro pass. Descent to Huspang.

July 15th. Descent to Saicho, transfer to Skardu. Completion of the trek.

The second trekking group of the 7 Summits Club came very close to its goal – the K2 base camp. They're spending the night at Camp Concordia tonight. Tomorrow is not a very long climb and a meeting with the main team of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. There will be a celebration!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Dasha Sivova reports from Pakistan:

Salaam from Islamabad from the group "Me and my young team"!  Well, we did it! Trekking to the Base Camp K2 and return through the Gondogoro pass has been completed!

Today in the capital of Pakistan, we summed up the results of this incredible journey: in numbers:

 ⁃ More than 130km has been covered

 ⁃ The maximum height has been reached: Gondogoro Pass 5480m

⁃ The longest Khuspang-Khushe crossing: 26km.

 But the most important thing is the team that has come all this way together!

We discovered the most beautiful places in Pakistan, which took your breath away. We have passed paths that only a few people have walked. Wild and pristine.

Now our team has finally agreed that you need to go trekking to the K2 Base Camp at least once in your life! And this is the most beautiful trekking in the world!

We are happy to share the long-awaited photos and videos! And we heartily congratulate all participants! We did it!

P.S. We spent today in Islamabad, resting from a long journey. A meeting with representatives of the Russian Embassy in Islamabad was also a pleasant surprise. We continue to build friendly relations with diplomatic missions in the countries where we send large expeditions, and we sincerely thank you for a pleasant acquaintance!

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group "Everything goes according to plan" safely descended to the first camp of Lenin Peak at noon. The third acclimatization rotation is completed. Now rest and wait for the weather. A few days... and for the final assault.

The 7 Summits Club guides Svetlana Kotlyar and Alexander Spirin: Salaam from Pakistan!  Today we are another 20 km closer to the goal of our trip – the K2 Base Camp! The day turned out to be difficult, but the most intense for emotions and impressions! We walked to the Urdokas camp on the Baltoro glacier, crossed mountain streams and rivers. Today it was a little cloudy and not so hot. The views surrounding us never cease to amaze with their beauty. In the evening, we celebrated the birthday of our participant Yulia Kotova with a festive dinner. Our local assistants baked the chicken and made a cake, and we cooked buckwheat. In the evening we looked at the stars from a height of 4000 meters……

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Camp-3 on Lenin Peak, from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we left our cozy dome at 5350 and climbed 6100 in 5.5 hours. The morning turned out to be sunny and hot, but after arriving at the camp it began to snow. After a little rest and eating pilaf and solyanka, we went to the summit of Razdelnaya 6140. We are waiting for the sunset and cooking borscht for dinner. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will descend to the first camp. They promise snowfall.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Our group - on summit of Ararat, we went all right! The mountain let go and let go down. The weather was great: the sun, almost no wind. The road was not easy, but we mastered the ascent. Alas, not all of them. But ten people were standing on top of the mountain. Now everyone has gone down to the hotel, we are resting. Part of the group goes further by car to Russia, and tomorrow we will go to Akhtamar Island. And this is the end of our journey. 

The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on K2 spent the night in Camp-2 at an altitude of 6560 meters. Starting early in the morning, all participants went down to the base camp by 13 o'clock. At this point, the acclimatization rotations are completed, the team will wait for a favorable weather period to storm the summit.

Alexander Abramov: Mount K2 is exhaustingly difficult and heavy. It seems there are no direct difficulties, but the whole day the climb is at 45 degrees and the relief is mixed. Snow, rocks and ice at an altitude above 7000 m.  In the photo, Camp 1 is perched on a rocky ledge. All night there's ice flying from above, well not rocks. Stones were flying on the ice that year.

On July 13, at 5 a.m., the group of the 7 Summits Club "GenKa2" left the base camp. After 2 hours we came to the ABC camp.  Then, at 8 o'clock, we started climbing and at 12:30 we reached Camp-1 at an altitude of 6100.  The weather was sunny, but there was a strong wind.

 After the rest, on July 14, the group continued climbing at 8 a.m. and by 12 o'clock reached Camp-2 at an altitude of 6550-6600 meters.  Everything is going great so far. Tomorrow, a small ascent up, presumably to the end of fixed ropes and descent to the base camp. And then there will be preparation for the assault on the summit.

Camp 1

We drink teas with sherpas in C2 for 6600. 

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! At night we managed to enjoy the starry sky. And today is another sunny day, which means that soon there will be no weather, just for our acclimatization.  But we are not discouraged and are preparing to go out! Today we held ice classes, remembered how to use descenders and jumars correctly. We walked in crampons on slopes of different steepness and learned to work as a single rope. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we go to the second camp, there will be no connection, unless the crazy Internet suddenly breaks through, but we use it to write to our relatives! Wait for news after the descent.

The participants of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 went out early this morning for the next, according to the plan, final acclimatization rotation. The whole team safely ascended to Camp-1 at an altitude of 5500 meters.  Everyone feels good. The combined team of the best Sherpas continues to equip the route. Tomorrow our group goes up to Camp-2, where it will spend the night and on July 15 everyone should go down to the base camp.

Kristina Kozlova: We didn't sleep all night today. There was a strong squally wind, even the toilet was blown away. But this did not change our plans, and early in the morning the team went to the last acclimatization rotation!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

  Today we went to acclimatize to the assault camp 4200. Not everyone could make it, but we fought! It turned out to be not quite an easy walk for half of the group. Today it became clear how we will go to the top!  We lost one participant who decided to stop climbing and go down to the hotel. Everyone else reached the camp. Not quite fresh, but they got there. Then we went down, and everyone felt much better. A hot shower and lunch were waiting for us at the camp. And it helped to pass into yourself! We plan to get some sleep and go up to spend the night in the assault camp. The weather favors us, we hope it will continue to be the same!

News from Iran from our mini-team. Congratulations to Alexander and Anatoly on the SUMMIT! On July 10, 2023, the team stood on top of the highest volcano in Asia - Damavand (5671 m). According to Alexander: "... and there's not much to tell. In a good way! That is, everything took place exactly in accordance with the program. Expectations were met, the 7 Summits Club company is on top (with us!)".

Svetlana Kotlyar, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:

 Greetings to all from Ascole! Today our team left the hospitable Skardu. Early in the morning we left for Ascole, a village at an altitude of 3000 m. Here we are housed in large comfortable tents, we also have a personal kitchen and dining room. The conditions are excellent! Here, as at a campsite, there are many climbers from different countries.

The members of our group feel great, we will soon have dinner and relax after a long move. Tomorrow is the first day of trekking. We have to walk 20 km to the Jola Camp. The guides of the group are Svetlana Kotlyar and Alexander Spirin.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! The weather whispers - go to the mountain! Well, we went - to acclimatize we climbed to the peak of Yukhin 5100. After lunch, we played cards, read books, slept, rested. We also have a generator "dead" in the camp, but this is not a hindrance for us, and the evening disco will take place! Ice climbing classes are planned for tomorrow.