Asia - Page 38

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Iran:

Greetings to all from hot Persia! So our summer season has started on Damavand. Today we met our first group, an already well-coordinated team. Most of the members have climbed Elbrus and Kilimanjaro together before.

The day turned out to be eventful and full of impressions. The acquaintance with Tehran began with a tasting of a local traditional dish - dizi. The most famous restaurant is located in the Grand Bazaar area in a historic building where the very first bank in Iran used to be.

A shared photo with the owner of the restaurant is attached. Of course, we visited Golestan, reviewed all the shah's palaces of the Qajar era, the tombstone of the last Shah, copies of thrones, the diamond hall, gifts of the shah, for which a separate building was built.

We were introduced to Tehran by the beautiful Maryam, professor of the Russian language department at the university and an expert in local history.

The evening and the welcome dinner were held in the panoramic revolving restaurant of the Milad TV tower with a view of the evening sparkling Tehran.

We discussed all the details of tomorrow and, of course, congratulated Viktor Alexandrov on his birthday! We are very glad that he decided to spend his BD with us!

The guides are in touch with you - Valery Myasoyedov, Evgeny Fedyunin, Anastasia Kuznetsova.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Ararat is in touch!  The group "Masha and the Bears" came to the base camp today. In the morning we got up and had breakfast at the hotel. Then three hours by car to the foot of the mountain. Now a new road has started working. The walk has become a little less, the camp is only 7.5 kilometers away.  We walked slowly with a tea break, a little faster than 4 hours. Everyone feels great. On the way, we chatted and looked at the beauty of the Ararat Valley. Tomorrow we will go to the assault camp for acclimatization. There's still snow there, so we dress warmer.

The guide of the 7 Summits  Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Greetings to all from the glorious city of Van!  Today we arrived in this city, located not far from Ararat. We gathered at the hotel, chatted. We remembered the previous ascents, had dinner together, discussed plans for tomorrow and went to the museum.

Vladimir Belkovich climbed to the top of Lhotse accompanied by sherpa Dava. Thus, Vladimir, within the framework of the 8000 Club programs, did a "double" - in one season he climbed two eight-thousand-meter Makalu and Lhotse.  After his return to Kathmandu, our season can be considered over. And completed successfully!

 On May 21, 2023, an unprecedented event for Russian mountaineering took place: "Snow Leopard", climber Vitaly Lazo became the first Russian to use skis to descend from the highest point of the planet. He started from a height of 8845 meters, which is only three meters below the top.

The ascent, organized by the 7 Summits Club, was made by Vitaly together with the Snow Leopard Anton Pugovkin, his friend of the Freeride in the Death Zone project (climbers storm the highest mountains of the planet, followed by skiing). Everest became the fifth eight-thousandther.

The team climbed on the summit with a special mission, which you can learn about by watching the documentary "Oxygen 2. Everest", which has been shooting for more than three months in partnership with Gazprom-Media Holding and its companies: Central Partnership and Red Media.

On the descent, Vitaly Lazo needed medical help, he was evacuated from Camp 2 to a hospital in Kathmandu. Anton Pugovkin feels well.

⠀Vitaly Lazo (VK): Hello everyone!  Our latest news is on May 22, I was evacuated from a height of 6500 meters to Kathmandu. Now I am in the hospital with a diagnosis of "cerebral edema" ... I am much better... I am on the mend, I will be discharged in a day and on the 26th, in the morning, I already plan to be in Moscow…

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the 8000 Club team "We are just tourists"! On May 19, our friendly team ascended to the highest point of the planet — the summit of Mount Everest!!!!

This ascent was not easy for all of us. A very difficult and harsh mountain. On the day of the ascent, the wind reached 40-45 km / h, but none of the participants turned around, everyone reached their dream! I had to struggle with the weather conditions and with myself.

We were very tired, we gave it our all. After the mountain, the last participants returned to the second camp at 6400 only by 10 pm.

We will write more detailed news later. Now we are already at the base camp, celebrating the ascent. Our Sherpas have prepared a delicious cake, we communicate, share our impressions, received certificates and medals for our ascent!

Congratulations to Alexander Abramov on his twelfth ascent to the highest peak of the planet! And also with the successful leadership of the group with one hundred percent summits!   This time, most of the ascent took place during daylight hours and the filming turned out to be more than usual. Watch and listen…

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

So, today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club flies from BC to Kathmandu. I want to sum up. A difficult expedition. Everyone was sick. Not everyone was able to recover. 6 people at the top. 11 people have already died this season. 100 got frostbite.

Our expedition is the best. Not a single injury. Probably due to the colossal experience of the organization. I have the 12th ascent of Everest. I was even praised for it. We will continue to work. And ahead of K2, where our team of 17 participants is starting in 3 weeks.

The head of the Makalu expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Yesterday, a solemn celebration of the Makalu climbers took place in the Makalu BC. They were awarded certificates and medals. And then the unofficial part began - with a cake from our chef Dandy and dancing from our Sherpas. By the way, we also solemnly presented the main sirdar and Guinness Book record holder Lakpa Makalu from our 8000 Club with a commemorative medal for Makalu (this year he climbed to this peak 7th times). This morning, part of the group was able to fly to Kathmandu. 5 participants were stuck in Lukla due to bad weather (Simone Moro personally settled everyone in good hotels and promised to take them to Kathmandu tomorrow). One participant, Volodya Belkovich, flew to the Everest BC and plans to climb Lhotse in the coming days. We hope that tomorrow, on May 20, everyone will gather in Kathmandu - both Makalu and Everest teams and celebrate our successful ascents!

 Congratulations to the brave climbers!  On May 17, six climbers from the 8000 Club team climbed the summit of Makalu.

List of summiters:

Lyudmila Korobeshko - head of the expedition;

Israfil Ashurli – deputy leader;

Igor Smirnov;

Yuri Lukyanov;

Vladimir Belkovich;  

Valery Babanov.

At the Base Camp, the climbers received certificates and honorary badges-medals.

On May 17th, the team of the 8000 Club climbed on the summit of Makalu 8,485 m:
Lyudmila Korobeshko - head of the expedition;
Israfil Ashurli - ascended on the second attempt, took part in rescue work;
Igor Smirnov;
Yuri Lukyanov;
Vladimir Belkovich;
Valery Babanov.
Now the whole team is in the Base Camp.

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Anton Pugovkin:  There are 44 days of the expedition behind me and we already want to put an end to it. Therefore, after 6 hours we go to Camp 2, at 6300. Then, according to the plan, on the 19th C3 (7100), on the 20th C4 (8100), on the night of the 20th to the 21st we go out to storm the summit, well, there's a matter of technique. What we need, yes, in principle, everything is there, except that a little bit of luck definitely won't hurt. See you later!

Friends, we received a message via satellite that Alexander Abramov's team has climbed Everest!  Alexander Abramov became a 12-time Everest summiter today!

Now there is a descent, so detailed information will be later.

 The president of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The whole team has climbed 8100m. We are going to storm at night. At 22:00 local time (19:15 Moscow time), the team starts to climb the highest mountain on our planet!

 The Assault Team of the 7 Summits Club:

 Alexander Abramov - head of the expedition

Ilya Alyoshkins

Andrey Golov

Kazbek Gulmagomedov

Alla Mishina

Andrey Polyakov.   

This morning on May 17, the 8000 Club team led by Lyudmila Korobeshko was able to climb to the top of Makalu 8485m! Now the group is coming down, everyone is healthy and safe. Details will come later.

Today, the 8000 Club group led by Lyudmila Korobeshko climbed to Camp 3 at a height of 7,400 meters. The weather is very bad, a hurricane-force wind is blowing. In such conditions, climbing to the top is impossible. We need to wait for the weather to improve.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

We are in Camp 2. View of Camp-3 at an altitude of 7100 m, the crest of Mount Everest and the summit of Lhotse.

The second day of good weather, which is promised for at least another week.  And the second day of climbing to the top of Mount Everest. Our group is going up to Camp-3 tomorrow. Everything is according to plan and without haste.

Sergey Bogomolov went down yesterday from Camp 3 to Base Camp. Full of emotions. Alexander Abramov shot a video with him, who had not yet had time to take off his overalls.  Sergey Georgievich climbed to a height of 7100 meters. "It doesn't happen easily", ahead of the continuation of preparations for the summer expedition to K2.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings from the Everest Base Camp from the team "We are just tourists!" of the 8000 Club! This morning we left Namche Bazaar after four full days of rest and flew to base camp, which has already become so dear to us in a month! After breakfast, we attended a briefing, at which we approved the plan for the next 6 days:

May 15: Camp 1 — 6100

16th of May: Camp 2 — 6400

May 17: Camp 3 — 7100

May 18: Camp 4 — 7900

May 19: 8848 Everest summit and 6400 descent

May 20: descent to Base camp

We went to the camp of the 7 Summits Club, where Alex Abramov gave us a practical lesson on the use of oxygen equipment.

After lunch, we charged gadgets, collected snacks and other things. The whole team is in a pleasant excitement! We're finally getting to the finish line!

Wish us good luck!

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Our vacation is over. Yesterday, the whole team returned to the Everest Base Camp.  The wind was blowing hard. The wind has calmed down today. And today, the Sherpas have posted a route to the top. And already the first climbers set off on their way to the top of Mount Everest. Our team does not want to get into traffic jams on the mountain. According to the forecast, 10 days of good weather are ahead. Therefore, our exit is scheduled for May 15 and according to the plan, the top is on the 18th. While the whole team is in the ranks. We are preparing for a heroic assault.

Guide Alexander Abramov, Lena Abramova, Andrey Selivanov.