Asia - Page 51

Now Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko are on acclimatization rotation on the slopes of Broad Peak.  We bring to your attention photos from trekking to the base camp.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the city of Osh! Our program of climbing Lenin Peak begins! Today the participants arrived, and before lunch they were recovering from a sleepless night on the plane. We checked our equipment, got acquainted with the peculiarities of the local mentality, and went to the pool! Then there was dinner, we celebrated the meeting! Tomorrow we are scheduled to move to the base camp at an altitude of 3600 meters.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, from Pakistan:
We came to the base camp of expeditions on Broad Peak. This is already good news. The bad news is that so far not a single person has climbed Broad Peak. Today, Furtenbach's team has already gone home after an summit attempt. It ended a little above Camp 3 due to the large amount of snow and no fixed ropes.
It looks like Lyuda and I came just in time. Everything is just beginning.... By the way, the food here is excellent. And the camp is very comfortable.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Greetings from Pakistan from Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko! Have you lost us? We were out of touch for 4 days. The satellite failed. And the local connection appeared only on July 7, in Concordia. So, from July 4 to July 7, we moved from Ascole (a village at 3050) to Concordia (a camp at 4500 with a view of K2 and other eight-thousandths). On the way we spent the night in the camps of Jola, Payu, Urdukas. The last two crossings were the longest - 9-10 hours on the Baltoro glacier. But the beauty is indescribable! Tomorrow we plan to make a short trip to the base camp of Broad Peak. Then - rest and acclimatisation rotation on Broad Peak.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Exploration expedition on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Day 3. The third of July. Hurray! The documents are finally ready. In the morning we left Shigar in the direction of Ascole. On the way, we slowed down in almost every village - our driver greeted his friends and proudly showed that he was carrying foreign tourists. Two hours later we stopped to buy chickens. For the first time we saw how live chickens are put on the scales and discuss weight and prices for a long time, and chickens calmly flaunt on the scales. Around lunch, we had a snack with traditional food of the Baltu peoples - rice, lentils, vegetables and meat - essentially the same Nepalese dalbat. In general, the Baltu, Sherpa and Tibetan peoples are very close, languages and traditions are similar.
About two o'clock we stopped, before reaching Ascole a couple of kilometers - the road was washed out here. We had to move things to other Jeeps. We walked a little bit to Ascole - the views are gorgeous! The village is very picturesque, with sharp snow peaks all around.
This is the last major settlement on our way. There will probably be no further communication until the very BC - day 4-5. See you soon! Don't lose us!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan.  Day 1. The first of July. At 4 a.m. we landed in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan, where we were warmly welcomed by one of the brothers Saed - Anwar. A few cups of Pakistani tea (mixed tea with milk and cardamom), a few photos for memory, and we are already flying further to Skardu (2450), a town in Baltistan, from where expeditions to the Karakoram mountains begin.

It's also hot here - about +25-30 (well, at least not +45, as in Islamabad). The road from the airport is blocked by strikers, we are going to detour. Half an hour later we arrive at the Summit Hotel in Skardu, give the documents to the military to obtain permits and fall asleep.

We wake up around 15.00, have a snack with mixed fried rice, which we have loved since Tibet, and go to buy gas and other small things. However, Friday evening is a Muslim day off - many shops close early. Therefore, we just decide to relax and go to the barber shop to clean up. Sasha shaves, I take pictures, five more locals just sit next to each other and talk to the hairdresser and us. The owner of our hotel brought us to the barbershop. On the way, he told me that three years ago in the winter, a Russian expedition to K2 stopped with him (apparently, it was with Artem Brown).

A short walk before going to bed - through the noisy streets of Skardu, very close to the noise of the Indus water ... Tomorrow, if the documents from the military are ready, we will go to Ascole. Or we'll wait here for another day.

P.S. We met Nims on the way to Pakistan. First on the poster, and then in person.  We agreed to meet again in a week under K2 and Broad Peak.

News of the Mountain Fever project – traveling with local guides.   Guests from Russia, participants of the 7 Summits Club program made a fantastic ascent to Demavend (the highest volcano in Asia from the 7 Volcanoes project). This trip was one of the most wonderful events in their lives! Everything was fine, thanks to the well-coordinated work of the local team. Guide Hossein is a great professional and clever, thanks to his care, the ascent was as comfortable and interesting as possible. Thanks to Maryam, who discovered for guests a lot of the country's culture, introduced them to Tehran and its residents. See you again in the mountains!

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Our whole big group of different ages, of different characters, but united by one goal, successfully reached the top of Mount Demavend yesterday! The ascent was not easy. At first, everyone was rocking, walking at a slow pace, then, as they say, they woke up, gained cruising speed.  The second half of the climb was faster, which is quite rare. Just before the summit, a strong wind blew, not at all according to the forecast. He raised sulfur dust so that many people's eyes watered, but we overcame this discomfort as well. Almost simultaneously, with a difference of 15 minutes, the whole team pulled up to the top. Congratulations and a traditional photo shoot. But our young participants Misha and Sergey, who were 14 years old at the time of the ascent, received special compliments! How they worked on the route! How they grasped comments and tips on the go!  Well, it's just incredible, at such an age, and such efficiency, and dedication!

  The day turned out to be very difficult, almost a day on feet.  We agreed that we would strive to go down as low as possible on the day of the ascent, and if possible, then to Tehran. And we were able to do it! At three o'clock in the morning we checked into the cozy rooms of Espinas Palace, the best hotel in Tehran. A well-deserved finale of a difficult day and the whole program as a whole!  Today there will be an award ceremony and a farewell dinner at the Milod Tower, the best panoramic restaurant in Tehran. Guides Alexander Spirin and Valery Myasoedov.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Today is the most colorful day of our entire tour! Endless slopes of scarlet poppies! At the end of June, they bloom even brighter and open above the Mosque to a height of 3,300 m. We didn't look at the time, everyone was keen on the photo shoot, which is why we came to Borgoh-e Sev almost an hour later. We didn't regret a bit, it happens once in a lifetime, to visit Iran and capture the period of flowering poppies. In the camp, as always, the best "rooms" were occupied for us, a delicious soup for a late lunch and the national dish lyubie-polo and bahlava for dinner completed this colorful day. Tomorrow, a short acclimatization to 4600 m and preparation for the ascent.  Guides Alexander Spirin and Valery Myasoedov.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, reports from Turkey:

Today Ararat has shown us its strength! During the day we saw all the manifestations of bad weather: strong wind, snow, hail, rain - but still we climbed to the top in very poor visibility! Then there was a long descent in an ongoing blizzard and without visibility! With difficulty we went down to the upper camp and made a strong-willed decision to go down to the hotel today! Then a few more hours of descent to the first camp, there we took a little breath and another 8 kilometers down, in places in the rain, watching a thunderstorm! But now we have reached Van and are resting in a hotel, not in tents!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, the group's guide, reports from Iran:

News from the group "Forward to the past" from Iran from the summit of Damavand, 5670m. Today the team, consisting of 11 participants and 5 guides, heroically ascended on the summit. A lot of impressions. The weather was great. We were lucky.  We started around 7 am. There were clouds of sulfur near the top, because this is an active volcano. And at 19:30 all the participants went down to the shelter. The whole team is happy! This year, the 7 Summits Club has many groups in Iran. The people here are wonderful, the attitude towards us is excellent. And the mountain is great. Come here! Guides Alexander and Denis Abramov.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, reports from Turkey:

Ararat continues to "delight" us with the weather. Today we went up to acclimatize to the base camp. The camp was in complete fog, met us with cold.  We sat for a while, drank tea and went downstairs. Upon returning, it began to rain almost immediately!  The cooks cooked our meat on the fire in the tent! After dinner, we danced a little and went to rest before going to the assault camp for the night!

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey:

News from the slopes of Ararat! Today we moved out of the hotel in the city of Van towards Ararat! With excellent views, we reached the foot, went on foot to the base camp. By the middle of the way we were caught in the rain. We were lucky and for some time we waited out the downpour in a tent with the Kurds.  There we were offered tea and a light snack of cheese and tortillas. As soon as the rain stopped, we went out to the camp.  But we didn't have time to reach the camp without rain. Not far from it, snow and rain began to fall and we finally got to the camp, frozen and soaked! It was difficult, but we managed! Tomorrow we go out for acclimatization to the assault camp and hope for the favor of the weather!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, the group's guide, reports from Iran:

Today our team "Forward to the future" started climbing volcano Damavand in Iran. Long journeys and shifting loads were compensated by a gorgeous view of the mountain and fields of red poppies. By 6 pm we reached the refuge at an altitude of 4150m. Tomorrow is the day of acclimatization and preparation for the ascent. The summit is getting closer!

Guides Alexander Abramov and Denis Abramov.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, the group's guide, reports from Iran:

This morning we woke up and boldly moved towards the goal of our acclimatization hike: the Tochal Mountain 4000m.  The top has been reached. And then the weather turned bad, it almost snowed. Therefore, a quick descent to Tehran was necessary.

But in Tehran, two fully cooked sheep were waiting for us. And a toast for the successful ascent. True, everyone was clinking glasses with what they could: juice, ayran, water and delicious non-alcoholic beer.

Tomorrow we will move to the hot springs, to warm clogged muscles and joints battered by climbing.

Guides Abramov Alexander and Abramov Denis.

 Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, the group's guide, reports from Iran:

Today, the Back to the Future team tried a new way of acclimatization program. We took the cable car up to the Ski hotel situated at 300 m from the top of the mountain Tochal 3960m. Then, having had a delicious lunch, we went on an acclimatization ascent to the summit of Shah 3800m. And now all the participants are tired and go to bed. Tomorrow morning we plan to climb on the summit of Tochal and descend to Tehran.

Details about the ascent of Asia's highest volcano Damavand (included in the 7 Volcanoes project) from the guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov.

 Summit day is the most difficult one. Here, in addition to good acclimatization, motivation and strong-willed qualities play an important role. A late start at 5.30 am justified itself, a strong gusty wind would complicate the ascent in the early hours. We went out without lanterns, we took a leisurely pace, comfortable for all participants. Friday is a day off in Tehran, there were many local climbers on the mountain. When they see foreigners, they greet them, it was nice. We went smoothly and steadily, which is important.  The second half of the climb was completed at approximately the same pace as the first. And in less than 7 hours, almost simultaneously, all the participants reached the top! Strong-willed qualities also proved to be on top!

 We went down the climbing path, crampons and ice axes were not needed. But this does not always happen, it was the decision of the Iranian guides. On the descent, everyone was tired, but the desire to run down as soon as possible and go down to Polur, to a comfortable 2.200 m, was even stronger. As a result, there was further descent to the mosque, moving to Polur, and we are in relatively comfortable conditions. And after taking a shower, everyone noticeably moved away and cheered up, still a set of 1400 m and a descent of 2600 m on their feet is a decent load for the day!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, the group's guide, reports from Iran:

A new program of the 7 Summits Club of climbing Demavend has started today in Iran. Two Abramovs will be guides: Alexander and Denis (son). The command is called "Back to the Future". The team members and I walked through the "hot spots" of Tehran. These are the markets, the palaces of the Iranian shahs and ended the evening with dinner on a TV tower.

Everyone is delighted with the country. Especially from beer with 0.0% alcohol of lemon and apricot flavor. Generally, in Iran, the people are wonderful, the food is very tasty.

Tomorrow, according to the plan, we have an acclimatization ascent to the mountain Tochal 4000m and an overnight stay at an altitude of 3700 m.

Yes... now we live in the best presidential hotel in Tehran.

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey:

 Today we climbed on the top of Mount Ararat with a full team! The weather was far from the best, but we gathered all our strength and ascended! Now we have gone down to the base camp to rest and realize what happened to us! Tomorrow we go down to civilization.

 Valery Myasoedov, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Iran:

The fourth day of the program initially did not seem difficult. Not the earliest rise, slept off, for the first time, as they say, took a breath. Breakfast in one of the restaurants of Larijan, a leisurely transfer to Gusfand-Saro, or also this place is called a Mosque. On the way, a fantastic photo shoot of Svetlana against the background of a Demavend. A short rest, loading things on mules and getting out to Borgoh-e Sevvom. This is the last shelter on the route, from where all already go to the mountain. We gained 1200 meters at a good pace, reached the camp in less than 4.5 hours. The conditions in the camp are Spartan, but we managed to get the best "rooms". Surprisingly, in such conditions, our Iranian friends manage to cook amazingly, the highest class!

Today we have a very simple day in terms of load, we made an acclimatization exit for 400 meters along the assault trail in the direction of the summit, but a very important day for rest and morale for tomorrow. And tomorrow we have an assault on the summit of Demavend. Wish us good luck!