Asia - Page 52

While Valery Myasoedov's group is acclimatizing and gathering strength before storming the summit, Alexander Slesarev and Olga Poriyadochnykh are completing the program. Today they climbed to the top of the highest volcano in Asia - Damavand (5671 m). Congratulations with the Summit! It was unforgettable!

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey:

Today we went to the assault camp for acclimatization.  There was sun, snow and fog, though without rain.  The weather in general was not pleasant, but the forecast promises good conditions for the next few days. Tomorrow we will move to the assault camp already for summit climbing. It feels like all the participants are in good enough shape to go to the top. Let's hope for good weather and great views on the ascent!

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey:

Greetings to all from the slopes of the holy Mount Ararat.  We've had a long day today. First we left the city of Van and drove along the shore of the lake of the same name towards the city of Dogubayazit. Then we changed the car there.  Another 30 minutes on a dirt road and the first ascent in our program began, in the form of a move to the base camp. We reached it  in an average pace - of 4 hours. Everyone feels good. Tomorrow we continue acclimatization and go to the upper camp at 4100.

Valery Myasoedov, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Iran:

The first team for the Damavand of the 2022 season has arrived in Tehran! Even a night flight and an early morning arrival cannot reduce the emotional mood for the long-awaited meeting with Iran! Well, Aeroflot, as always, is on top!.. Already at 6 a.m., Tehran begins to seethe, 15 million inhabitants, almost like in Moscow... A short rest at the hotel and departure for an excursion: a visit to Golestan, literally translated as the "palace of roses", the residence of several dynasties of rulers of Iran and, of course, acquaintance with Iranian cuisine. Dizi-e Sangi - stewed meat with vegetables in a stone pot.  Everyone appreciated and admired the delicious dish with the original serving. Sharbat is also a traditional drink, with a bunch of herbs and additives, but non-alcoholic, with alcohol in Iran in any way, is prohibited...

 Our organisms demanded rest, returned to the hotel, regained their senses, and in the evening went to a gala dinner at the Milod Tower. It is one of the highest towers in the world, with a rotating restaurant at an altitude of almost 300 m. The tower itself is amazing, and the panorama of evening Tehran, and the wonderful cuisine for every taste. There are a lot of local visitors, they are all so elegant and beautiful, it is clear that this is an event for them, to visit the famous landmark. And what kind of tea with saffron is there!..

The 7 Summits Club Guide Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey: Greetings to all from the glorious city of Van!  Today begins the first program of the 7 Summits Club on Ararat this year. The day turned out to be calm, all the participants flew to the city of Van normally. We rested a little after the flight, discussed plans for the next few days and went to rest. Tomorrow will be a difficult day, we go to the base camp.

The night at the camp 2 was a bit hectic.

The first time I woke up at about ten o'clock in the evening from the fact that B. was hopelessly crying out in the next tent:

- Oxygen! Bring me oxygen! Will someone eventually bring me oxygen?!

And from another nearby tent, Dr. Larin answered melancholically:

- Yes, I'm coming, I'm coming. I'm already putting on my shoes.

Then all night I woke up from a terrible thirst, it's good that there were water supplies at hand as usual. And also from unpleasant sensations in the throat, which began the day before and now turned into some kind of sleep-disturbing cough.

In general, so-so night.

By the morning it turned out that B., who took off his glasses every now and then during the descent, burned his eyes and now sees nothing. A helicopter was about to arrive for him.

The rest of the members of the Khumbu Walking Club gradually woke up and crawled out of the tents.

Whole text is in Russian. Detailed description of the ascent on Everest…

 Photos of Olga Rumyantseva. Everest expedition. The Summit! The Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club has ended. Eight participants, two guides and 11 Sherpas have reached the summit! Read more in our chronicle…

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest. Day 28. May 16. Move to the camp on the South Col. The height is about 8000 meters.  Climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4. Olga Rumyantseva, who usually works as a guide for the 7 Summits Club company, is on the expedition as a participant this time. She reached the South Col with her personal Sherpa Nima at three o'clock in the afternoon.  And at eight o'clock the start of the decisive attempt has already been scheduled…

 Source: Life as an Adventure… (detailed diary of the expedition in Russian)

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 That's the end of our Everest-2022 expedition. Today we had the last presentation of medals to those members who have not yet left Nepal…

 And today I have already discussed with the 10-time Everest climber World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa a new project - The World Woman Everest Expedition WWEE.

Olga Rumyantseva, a team member, Everest summiter:  The morning was unfairly early. At half past six I was woken up by passing yaks, and immediately the morning  wake-up-tea, which I refused as usual. Getting out of a warm sleeping bag into an ice tent was especially disgusting. The consolation was that it had to be done for the last time.

And it also had to be done quickly. Because by seven-thirty in the morning it was necessary to pack all things in bags and prepare for a possible departure.

The first helicopter was expected at eight in the morning. However, looking out of the tent in the morning, we found that the promised bad weather seems to have happened, and the helicopter cannot fly, neither the first nor the second. Everything was shrouded in dense fog.

But a miracle happened, and at nine in the morning, a small yellow helicopter flew to us through a veil of advancing and retreating clouds.

And then, even more miraculously, along the route Base camp - Periche - Lukla - Kathmandu, we teleported to a completely different world.

And already at one o'clock in the afternoon we were sitting in the hotel restaurant.

However, only half of the participants were so lucky. But I hope that the second half will also reach us today.

By the way, part of our team acted even more cunningly. They arrived at the second camp, boarded a helicopter, flew to the base camp. And they were in Kathmandu yesterday, while we were stomping on the Khumbu glacier.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 The expedition is coming to an end. The entire program of acclimatization and climbing Mount Everest was completed in 30 days. It's fast. Firstly, it is an experience of organizations. The 7 Summits Club has organized more than 30 Himalayan expeditions. Secondly, we had a great team this year. And of course, we were lucky with the weather, the weather window on Everest lasted more than a week.

You can say as in a joke: "just lucky!"

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

That‘s all! The final descent on the Khumbu icefall. And the whole team is already in the Base Camp. The evening turned out to be a great party. Participants and Sherpas gathered. The summit cake was served. Tomorrow we plan to fly by helicopter to Kathmandu.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 Today, on April 17th at 4:00 am, 8 participants, 2 guides and 11 Sherpas were standing on the top of Mount Everest. Daniel Wolfson and Dawa Sherpa also climbed to the top of Lhotse at 2:30 a.m. 

Immediately after the descent, at 9 am, the weather deteriorated sharply. That's what we were counting on.

Also today is Natalia Bykovskaya's  birthday. Let's congratulate her!

Daniel Wolfson, a member of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club, left the assault camp yesterday at 20-20 (May 16th) together with the guide Dawa Sherpa.  At 2-20 local time May 17th, they were at the top of the fourth highest mountain in the World, Lhotse (8516 m).  Congratulations to our friend, an Israeli mountaineer born in the USSR!

 At 4:10 Nepal time, a message from Alexander Abramov came over the radio:

 Everyone who came out of the saddle (8 participants, 2 guides and Sherpas) reached the top!!!  There is a descent ahead - congratulations are accepted only at the base camp.

List of climbers:

Alexander Brychkin

Natalia Bykovskaya

Veronika Zaripova

Kovalenko Lilia

Kuprichenkov Fedor

Manevich Boris

Motorkin Sergey

Rumyantseva Olga

Guides:

Alexander Abramov

Artem Rostovtsev.

Dmitry Ermakov and Mikhail Kozlov did not go on the ascent for health reasons.

Sherpas guides:

1          Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

2          Lakpa Sherpa

3          Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa

4          Ngima Dorchi Sherpa

5          Dawa Sherpa

6          Ngima Nurbu Sherpa

7          Dawa Temba Sherpa- LHOTSE SHERPA

8          Rinjin Wongel Sherpa

9          Ngima Thindu Sherpa

10        Nima Dindu Sherpa

11        Nima Ungdi Sherpa

12        Ngima Ongda Sherpa

13        Dawa Chhiring Sherpa

14        Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

15        Mingdukpa Sherpa

16        Milan Sherpa

17        Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa

18        Ngima Ongdi Sherpa

19        Rinjen Sherpa

20        Pemba Nurbu Sherpa

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

The group climbed to the assault camp at an altitude of 8000 meters.  This is the South Col. The participants are resting and preparing for the decisive assault.  The start is scheduled for 21:00 local time (in Moscow it is 18:00, soon). Wish us good luck!

According to Svetlana Kotlyar, her group climbed to the top of Lhotse (8516 m) directly from Camp 2, located at an altitude of 6500 meters. That is, without spending a night in two intermediate camps 3 and 4. An excellent achievement! We are delighted! Congratulations to our wonderful social media manager, our beauty with the first eightthousander! Svetlana made the ascent according to the program of the Gornyashka Club, in the group of our partner company "14 Summits Expedition".

Alex Abramov from the slopes of Mount Everest:

The group got to Camp 3. The tents are standing well. We have eaten well and are resting. Tomorrow at 7:00 the exit to the assault camp at 8000m. Wish us good luck!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

Today, the whole team safely reached Camp 2. Everyone feels good, everyone is determined. After lunch, we plan classes on interacting with Sherpas while moving on a fixed rope and using supplemental oxygen. Tomorrow we move to the Camp 3.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

We are already in the Camp 1 at 6000 m. We walked fast, someone for 8 hours, I - for 9.5. The first time the group went 13-19 hours. This is probably the result of acclimatization, although the path does not feel easier. Heat. Not a little wind. I want to sleep now, but it's hot everywhere. It was a good lunch, we are waiting for dinner. I'm going to take a nap, tomorrow the move to the Second camp. We have satellite Internet with us. Expensive, but we are in touch.