Asia - Page 64

An international team of mountaineers under the general leadership of the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov began preparing for expeditions on K2 in the summer of 2021 and winter of 2021-2022. During this time, teams train separately in their own mountains. The national team of Kyrgyzstan held training camps in their native mountains, in the Ala-Archi region in the period November-December. In 14 days in November and 11 days in December, the team members completed a total of 7 routes.

 The national team of Kazakhstan trains now, on December 6-20,  in the Tuyuk-su area (Tien-Shan).

The Russian national team leaves for the Caucasus on December 18. They set a goal to pass the traverse of Elbrus in winter from West to East. From the pass to the valley Hatutu Riccati 5-6 winter overnight stays in the Alpine zone.

Photos from the training camp of the Kyrgyz team:

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest in 2016 can be called historical. After all, it hosted the main shooting of the future film "The High-Altitude Gene", which will become our presentation  for many years to come. The ascent was difficult, the conditions were severe, and there was everything that was required to create a decent story for film.

In a time when most Western companies have come to  Everest with  mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with  22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!

11th of April. Kathmandu

April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

1. Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
2. Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
3. Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
4. Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
5. Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
6. Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
7. Irena Kharazova. Russia.
8. Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
9. Lay Kwai Chung. China.
10. Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Denis Provalov. Russia.
2. Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
2. Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
3. Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
4. Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
2. Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
3. Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
4. Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
5. Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
6. Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
7. Elena Abramova. Russia.

 A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Christine Kozlova. Russia.
2. Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
3. Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.

During the expedition the group RD  studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.

 The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

The team of the 7 Summits Club was invited to the gala evening, where the Prime Minister of Nepal honored the family of our Sirdar Mingma. They (he and two sisters) have three Guinness Recorda. In addition, Mingma  was eight times on Everest, and he is the first Sherpa on Mount Elbrus.

 The head of our expedition Alex Abramov was appointed to the company of champions and honorable citizens, who have made great contribution to the development of Nepal. And he said a good speech. We are proud of!

14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.

Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.

Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.

April 16^th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...

pril 18^th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.

April 24^th.   Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in  the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.

 The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.

 Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.

 In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.

April 25^th Lyudmila Korobeshko:  the Puja ceremony  was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb  in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.

 The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.

 Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.

 After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.

In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.

Today we have a day of complete rest,  we went down  1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and  dance on the ruins of castles ...

May 6th. The  Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came  down to rest in the base camp. Members  who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their  altitude records!

 Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb  to an altitude  of  about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down  in  the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

  Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

 Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9^th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

Leaders of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko made a short trip to Pakistan. The main goal was to get acquainted with the country and the local operator, a partner in the organization of the expedition on K2. Let us remind you, that we are planning two sports expeditions on the second peak of the World, in summer and in winter. As part of a short trip, Alex and Luda made an attempt to climb Mount Khosar Gang (6200m). The summit was not reached due to strong wind and lack of equipment. However, in general, they come back in full delight with the country, people and mountains.

Day 3. Climb from base camp 3800 to camp 1 at 4800.

The night at the Base camp went well. It was a little chilly, maybe near zero. But we threw bottles of hot water in our warm sleeping bags, and the local kids made us thick mattresses.

We woke up around 7 am. The Sun came out only at 8.30, but immediately warmed up sharply. We had a delicious breakfast. Around 10 am, we went upstairs. The climb to the first camp took 4 hours and 1000 m of drop. The views were beautiful again. We walked along the ridge mostly, so the wind saved us from the heat. By 14.00 we came to camp 1 at 4800, had a cup of tea, and even found some Internet.

Tomorrow, the plan is to move to the camp at 5300 and try to storm the summit on the same night. We are afraid of the strong wind that was forecast. Let's see what happens at the top…

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club from Pakistan:

Greetings from Pakistan, or rather from the capital of Baltistan - Skardu! We were warmly welcomed by the five brothers Said, the Lela Peak company managers.  

 We managed to walk around Skardu, all the people here are very friendly and hospitable. Tomorrow we start climbing Khosar Gang. On the first day, according to the plan, we should reach the base camp at 3800.

The highest peak of Karakoram, the second highest mountain in the World, the majestic K2 is one of the most desirable climbing goal for climbers. The difficulty and high risks of routes, the unpredictability of the weather, the history full of tragic pages – all this excites, but also attracts. And to be the first to reach the summit in winter means to enter the history of mountaineering. Isn't this a worthy goal? The 7 Summits Club and RD Studio initiated a large PROJECT WINTER K2  2021/2022 that will unite the efforts of mountaineers from four countries at once.

 The main goal of the project is to solve the "last problem" of high – altitude mountaineering, the first ever winter ascent of K2. It should take place in the next winter season - 2021/2022.

We invite climbers from Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Ukraine to join our team.

Project leader: President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov.

Head coach: Pavel Shabalin.

Deputy leader - Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan).

In the winter of 2020/2021, we plan a joint winter training camp on Elbrus in order to meet and select the main team.

In the summer of 2021, we plan training ascents on K2 along two routes as part of a large expedition of 32 climbers from 4 countries. The climbs will take place, among other things, in order to choose the most suitable route for winter.

In the winter of 2021/2022, an attempt to climb K2 will be made, in which 16 main and 8 reserve members will take part.

The project site https://projectwinterk2.com/

Alexander Abramov, Director of The 7 Summits Club and at the same time the group's guide:

The team "Eleven friends of Vera" climbed Mount Ararat. All 11 friends reached the highest point. The weather was not pleasant. The trail was covered in ice. Plus there was a strong wind. All people did a good job. On the descent, we were covered in fog. But it ended well! Everyone is happy to win and celebrate success!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and guide of the group from Turkey: Yesterday the group arrived in Van. The expedition of the 7 Summits Club has 12 members. Today, our team reached the Base camp of Ararat at an altitude of 3300m.

One member didn't get his luggage. And we should stay in Van until noon to buy equipment. And only at 9 PM in the dark we got to the tents in the base camp. We were waiting for a delicious dinner. The evening was a success. Tomorrow - acclimatization rotation on 4200!

On September 16, a large group of the 7 Summits Club expedition led by Alexander Abramov reached the summit of Mount Ararat. Wonderful climb, great group!

 Farewell photo with Mount Ararat

The author of the video is Lyudmila Korobeshko:

Lyudmila Korobeshko from Turkey:

Today our team "Turkish Gambit" - all 26 people - climbed the summit of Mount Ararat. Now we all went down to the base camp and celebrate our victory.

Lyudmila Korobeshko from Turkey:  Greetings from the slopes of Ararat from the Turkish Gambit team! Our large group (26 people) climbed to acclimatize to the height of 4200. We walked for less than 4 hours from 3300 to 4200, it is good speed! On the way, you can see wonderful views of Little Ararat. We spent 40 minutes in the assault camp on 4200. There we drank tea and ran down to the delicious Turkish soup and Oriental sweets. We're resting now. In a couple of hours, according to the plan, there will be roast lamb and a continuation of yesterday's Banquet. It was the Grand opening of the new camp of the 7 Summits Club on Ararat.

Tomorrow we move with things on 4200 and in the same night we go to storm the summit.

The 7 Summits Club guides Alex Abramov, Serge Avtomonov and Lucy Korobeshko were in touch.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko and guide Sergey Avtonomov completed their mission to set up a base camp for a large group that is coming tomorrow. The Club President Alex Abramov personally checked the readiness of the camp. The weather on Ararat is excellent, we hope for a successful ascent. Tomorrow - group meeting in Van.

In fact, the Nepalese leadership has different opinions about quarantine measures, and it is possible that we will receive encouraging news from Kathmandu in the near future. There are already exceptions to the rules (the Qatari expedition on Manaslu) and we hope that our authority earned over the years will allow us to claim for the same as well. Now the 7 Summits Club is actively negotiating with the Embassy of Nepal in Russia to get permission to organize an expedition on Manaslu. We are also waiting for the borders to open in October and still recruiting groups for trekking programs. Stay with us and stay optimistic!

 The next expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest in 2014 was prepared in normal mode. As always, the leader was Alexander Abramov, and the Sirdar of the Sherpas was Mingma Gelu. Most of the members were from Russia. The company was large and proved to be a successful combination of representatives of different cultures and ages. It was one of the most friendly teams in the history of our expeditions. The expedition consists of 15 climbers and 4 guides.

 A new Everest expedition on the 7 Summits Club is beginning. Alex came to Nepal with a guide of our Tent Peak expedition Vladimir Kotlyar. They were met by the 7 Summits Adventure director Mingma Gelu...

Our Everest Sherpas Team in the office of 7 Summits Adventure

Alex with his tennis coach...

The new store Red Fox was opened recently in Kathmandu. And Luda Korobeshko represents a major showcase...

Alex joined his wife (in fact, she is in Moscow) in the showcase window. Right on seen the royal palace...

Alex and Israfil Ashurly in the store Red Fox in Kathmandu...

Israfil with Firuz Dadashov (right) goes on Shisha Pangma. All purchases made, and nonsymbolic...

Sherpas expedition 7 Summits Club are preparing to travel to Everest...

Guides 7 Summits Club Sergei Larin and Dmitry Ermakov fly to Nepal...

Today - there was the official day of start of the 7 Summits Club expedition to Everest. The main part of members of expeditions arrived in Kathmandu today. Everything is going normally. Expedition is large, probably the second or third largest on both sides of Mount Everest, the biggest on the North side.

The expedition : 15 climbers and 4 guide.

And numerous group of Sherpas , led by Mingma Gelu.

Traditional reception at the Russian Embassy . With us Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashov from Azerbaijan who go on Shishapangma.

14.04 

Our expedition flew to Lhasa. The trek to Mount Everest begins.

Alex mer his friend Nima Tsering, the Ministr of Sport of Tibet, Everest summiter.

 Entertement in Lhasa.

15.04.2014

Almost all team at once...

Farewell to Lhasa....

Good morning Xigar!

A bit windy....

20.04

Easter and puja were in one day - an amazing coincidence

Photos from the base camp of the 7 Summits Club expedition...

23.04

Alex: Because I had a bad cough and to prevent bronchitis, I went down for treatment at 1000 m below the base camp. To breathe "oxygen" and sleep in the warmth of the village of Old Tingri (altitude 4200m) .

There I suddenly met a team of Alpine Club of MAI (Moscow Aviation University), which just drives into the base camp Cho Oyu. They are 6 climbers led by Misha Volkov. The meeting was held at the high and even higher than the high level and ended warm parting. They went on their way, I stayed in my den.

Tomorrow I go up to the base camp.

Today, our team made the first acclimatization rotation to the Middle Camp, at 5800m. There was strong winds. It was very cold at night, but we survived. Everyone could feel like in the drama on Everest hero, 90 years before, attempts to climb Mallory and Irvine ...

Lake near Middle Camp

26.04

Hello! It is Alex Abramov from the Everest expedition, the camp ABC, at 6400 meters. There, of course, real fridge yet. Very cold, wind . Today we went here without acclimatization. Since in the South all the expedition were canceled, now we are the great common hope. Because in the north there are about 100 climbers, of which 19 people – from the team of 7 Summits Club. Now we are the biggest expedition on Everest .. .... Descend to the base camp, then we will see. Tomorrow our Sherpas start to set up a camp on the North Col, at 7000 meters ... Goodbye!

29.04

Alex Abramov from BC:

Today, 11 members left in Old Tingri to lick their wounds. And remaining in the base camp 8 members staged bath.

Sergei Larin - aka Doc, senior in the group, departing down. He gives instructions on how to behave in a civilized society and how to protect yourself from bird flu ...

Almost all members of the group Everest climbers from 7 Summits Club took part in the competition. The event was held on the system "each with each" to 3 sets. Games stretched for almost the whole day. Chief judge of competitions was Ivona Zadarnovska-Wingert from Poland (by the friendly nickname "merry Pole").

By the end of the competition day by scoring we identified leaders who again played each other for prizes. As a result, Vladislav Lachkarev from Siberian Irkutsk won first place, second place went to Irishman Derek Mahon, and third place – for charming Muscovite Natalia Matusowa.

Evening at the banquet table, the winner was awarded a prize - a bottle of expensive wine. Vladislav first wanted to retire with this bottle in his tent, but decided to split the prize between all team members. As Vlad said during a toast : "Better to be first in the base camp than on Everest a second ! "

Now, the team members are trained for the next competition - are preparing in billiards.

02.05

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from a height of 6400 meters, from advanced base camp. Today the first team (8 people) is here . We had breakfast, now it will be held ice classes. We will train ascending on fixed ropes, because tomorrow is our first team goes to the North Col of Everest in order to spend the night at an altitude of 7000 meters. The second team of 11 people spent the night in the Middle camp , and now rises toward the ABC camp. Tonight should all meet here. All feel fine, acclimatization goes according to plan, that is, sufficiently smooth, soft acclimatization.

Tonight snowed 5-10 sm. Everything is covered in white snow, very beautiful.

Tomorrow Sherpa and Lama will hold the opening of the camp ABC – puja. I will be prayer, etc… A general, all is perfect, the weather is nice, the sun shines. Justafternoonsometimes snows . Andsoallgood. Goodbye!

04.05.

Yesterday the first half of our team spent a night at 7 thousand on the Saddle (North Col). The second team left there today. A cold wind blows. But we do not lose heart. Everything else, internet modem is broken. So that do not wait images in the coming days. And in general, all is well. The food is good, the people are nice..... Goodbye!

05.05.

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from the Advanced base camp at the height of 6400 meters, on Everest. Our second team descended from the North Col. Their overnight on 7000 was quite good. Unfortunately, we were forced to send down Konstantin Umrilov, he fell ill. Expedition proceeds. Tomorrow the first team again is going to go on the North Col. To spend the night and the next day to try to climb on 7500. After that the second team does the same heroic feat and by May 9th all members and guides have to gather in the base camp. On May 9 we plan a traditional party where we invite usually all base camp. Weather is so-so, again brings down snow. Now we had dinner and very quietly dispersed on our tents. All, good-bye!

06.05.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov. I 'm on the ice wall near the exit to the North Col. Beautiful weather, no wind, heat. I want to report that all is well with us. The first team is now climbing to the North Col , in order to go on to a height of 7500 meters, with the purpose of acclimatization. The second team is at an altitude of 6400 meters ... However, there are changes. Kostya Umrilov is down to the base camp. Also our “merry Pole” Ivona Zadarnovska is going now down to the base camp, she has a strong cough. And Vladimir Voronin from Ukraine is also descending , he has a fever. But I hope that after week at base camp, they should get better. The remaining members of the expedition all cheerful, happy, and ready to conquer Everest . It will take approximately 15 to 19 th of May, or it can be from 19 to 23 th May. That'stheinformationwehave. Hi!

10.05

Alex Abramov: Yesterday, the 9th of May the 7 Summits Club provided the party of friendship and acclimatization, devoted to the Victory Day.

It passed in a real warm atmosphere!!!

All members of different expeditions come to us. All, who were in the Base camp. We sang, and ate, danced and played together.

Now our team, all 19 people, went down the valley to rest for 2 nights.  Then we will  return to the base camp and proceed to the main part of our climb.

See below in the original video today's historical statement made by Valdis Pelsh and Alexander Abramov. The 7 Summits Club and RD Studio will prepare two expeditions on K2, the second highest peak in the world, the only eight-thousand-meter peak never climbed in winter.

 As a warm-up, the main Director of the series "The High-Altitude Gene"  Kristina Shamiryan will go to climb Mount Ararat with Alex in two weeks.

Transcript of the video.

Valdis Pelsh: Dear friends, a historic decision has just been made, it is without exaggeration: we are beginning to prepare for the shooting of a new film "The High-Altitude Gene -2". It will be dedicated to climbing expedition on Chogori, also known as K2, the most difficult mountain in the World ... We are currently deciding who will be part of this expedition, but the main decision has been made and we are beginning to work hard… First in order to find the money...

Alex Abramov:- I have a very difficult task, to assemble the world сlass team, and to conquer this peak in the summer, and then in the winter…

- Amen!

- To climb, not to conquer.

- All right, climb the summit of K2 in the summer and then climb it in the winter. Valdis promises to make two films.

- No, no, it will be one movie. And what movie will be the third in our series " The High-Altitude Gene " you will find out after a while, watch the ads!

- URAH-Ah-Ah!

Last weekend, the leaders of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko visited the village of Fyodor Konyukhov. They were invited as guests of honor at an open-air meeting of the Directors' Club (Association of Independent Directors) held there. The friendship with the outstanding Russian traveler and his family began with the acquaintance of Alexander Abramov and Fyodor Konyukhov back in the 90s. It became stronger after climbing Mount Everest together in 2012. And now we have started a new joint project with Fyodor Konyukhov. As may be you know, he was the first in Russia who managed to finish the Seven Summits program.  And now Fyodor is trying to climb all highest peaks of continents by second time. Already re-climbed Everest, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus, next – Aconcagua with the Russian camp of the 7 Summits Club. But that's not all, in 2021, we planned to realize his old dream – climb the biblical Mount of Ararat. Alex Abramov, who recently returned from climbing this mountain, brought and solemnly handed Fyodor Konyukhov stones from the top of Ararat.

By the way, you can climb Ararat with Alexander Abramov this year. The new expedition under his leadership will start on September 12.

The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Mount Ararat and safely descended from the summit to the base camp. There were 19 members and 5 guides on the top of Ararat today. For several persons, Ararat became the first summit in life. We reached the top at the same time according to the idea of our leader Alexander Abramov. By all our friendly team. We celebrated all this on a green meadow with a spontaneous picnic with Ukrainian lard, Turkish bread and Mexican tequila while waiting for the horses for expedition's cargo.. Tomorrow we leave the mountains and go on an excursion program.

On August 16, a large group of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov arrived in the city of Van. On the first day, the group visited local attractions and took a tour on the lake. August 17, after breakfast with overlooking  the lake of Van, all went together to the city of Dogubayazit. There they changed vehicles and reached the start point at 2300 m. The cargo was sent on horseback, and the members climbed with stops for photos and acclimatization to 3,300 m, where the first camp is located. All the people were distributed to the tents and had a "candlelit" dinner. Then they discussed plans for tomorrow, and the acclimatization rotation on 4200 meters is planned.

 Valery Rozov group of 11 people was working in the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Among them, his constant companions for the most extreme expeditions: Alexander Ruchkin, Thomas Senf and Sergey Krasko. The group was acclimated, has prepared the site for a touchdown and a shooting on North Rongbuk glacier. Time was short, and Valery decided to jump at the first opportunity, on May 5 of 2013.

And it was a complete success - the highest ever BASE jump!

  We are proud that this new achievement of the outstanding Russian athlete was made within the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alex Abramov.

Red Bull:

The Russian extreme sports star Valery Rozov has made the highest ever BASE jump after leaping off Mt Everest from an altitude of 7,220m. Rozov made the jump on May 5th after almost two years of planning and training.

The ascent began on the Chinese side on the famous north route. Rozov had selected a spot for his leap at an altitude of 7,220 meters. It took him four days to climb from base camp to the jumping location, assisted by a team of four Sherpas.

At precisely 2:30 p.m. local time on May 5th, with temperatures at -18 Celsius, he jumped. Because the cliff at the top was not very high, the initial moment in the rarified high altitude air was extremely precarious.

Initial moment the most critical

Rozov needed more time than usual in the thin air to transition from freefall to flying. But after that he flew for nearly a full minute at speeds of about 200 km/h down the north face before landing safely on the Rongbuk glacier (5,950m).

Thank you, Red Bull !

Pictures by Denis Provalov

Alex Abramov from Everest base camp: Today, May 8. The whole team  came down to the Base Camp. Today, 14 people - Valery Rozov and his team and a team of climbers on Changtse left for Kathmandu, and then to go home. Now, only 10 climbers on Everest and 4 guides were left in the camp.

Sherpas will continue to set the upper camps. Weather forecast is disappointing, it promises a hurricane for 11-12 and 14-15 of May.

So now we are getting ready to go down to 4200 to rest.

Alex Abramov:  After 3 days of rest down in the valley we are back in the base camp. It was  avery important part of expedition, we should  be fit. Many were hurt by a throat, there were other problems with health. Now all it seems in norm, all are ready to climb. The weather forecast promises daily decrease in a wind.

Sherpas are working to equip camp with all necessary. They promise that the first group will be able to go up to the North Col at May 16.

Now we were divided into 2 groups. The first will try to reach the top on May 19, the second – on 20th.

Here is our plan.

In the world there are many ideas to surprise mankind. Among them, it is possible to carry a record of difference of height of climbing up to mountains and descent down in a cave. Now it isn't known who is a leader in this category. A guide of the 7 Summits Club Denis Provalov is trying to become the first. His plan - 11000 meters was declared few years ago. On Everest he can reach 8848 meters. In the cave – Kruber's - Voronya Denis was already at a depth of 2140 meters. In the sum – 10988 meters. It will be impossible to climb higher than Everest. And it is possible to go down, probably, still more deeply. On 12 meters it is so precisely, because his colleagues already reached 2170 meters (world record).

Today Denis Provalov will start for a climb ofMount Everestfrom the base camp.

 17.05.2013

Murad Ashurly: 7700 camp 25000 feet, very windy, now push to camp 8300 (27000 feet) few hours rest and go to summit 29000 feet. Will fight hard wind! I am with David Roeske from NYC here! He is brave man!

First group: Sergei Shevchenko, Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma.

18.05.2013

We are at 8300. It is OK. Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma. Wind is very strong. Start at midnight. Sergei Shevchenko went down from 8000 m. At 8100 m a corpse of a Sherpa lies. Probably the accident happened after hard climb on 15th of May...

 19.05.2013

Alex Abramov called from the summit of Everest

App. at 2:00 a.m. Moscow Time four members  (Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich), guide Alex Abramov and Sherpas has reached the summit !

20.05.2013

Today the second group of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. Three members: Sergey Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Vladimir Rychenko. Two guides: Noel Hanna (6th time) and Denis Provalov. At 11-30 Moscow time the group went by the camp 7700 m.

Altogether in this expedition Everest was climbed by seven members and three guides.

21.05.2013

 All members of the expedition who climbed the top of the World met at the ABC camp. It was the time for final dinner at Everest.

On behalf of the members of the expedition representatives of Kazakhstan Konstantin Morozov and Yaroslav Sabyrbaev  from the company Heydelberg Tsement (Heidelberg Cement) we expressed gratitude to the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and personally for the excellent organization of the expedition and successful ascent of Mount Everest in 2013

 27.05.2013.

In Kathmandu the gala evening was waiting at Rum Doodle, with awarding diplomas. Then all members went home. As a result of the expedition the summit of Mount Everest was climbed by 10 Europeans and 9 Sherpas. A total of 19 people. And 3 members climbed the North Peak of Everest (Changtse).

We crossed the border. Denis Provalov and Vladimir Rychenko even managed to jump with badges.

26.03.2013.  In two days Alexander Abramov will fly to Nepal to Kathmandu to do on-site preparation for the great expedition of 7 Summits Club on Everest. This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in the preparation of the season.

In the expedition of 7 Summits Club 13 members will climb with permits for the summit of Everest, 4 guides will work with them, 7 pax have permits for Changtse, 2 – for North Col (1 guide), 6 persons have the right to go up to camp ABC.

Besides the main ascent, Alexander Abramov plans to re-try a new route: traverse Changtse - Everest.

Generally 7 Summits Club sends toNepalthree large groups: forIslandPeak, for MeruPeakand for the classic trekking to Everest base camp.

01.04.2013. Alex was met by our Nepal chief Mingma (7 Summits Adventure Co) and his friends Nima and Pemba.

This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in the preparation of the season.

In the expedition of 7 Summits Club 13 members will climb with permits for the summit of Everest, 4 guides will work with them, 7 pax have permits for Changtse, 2 – for North Col (1 guide), 6 persons have the right to go up to camp ABC.

Besides the main ascent, Alexander Abramov plans to re-try a new route: traverse Changtse - Everest.

07.04.2013. On Sunday in Nepal there is a general strike. The strike almost paralyzed the country's life. Maoists so begin preparation for the general elections to the constituent assembly of the country.

Meanwhile, we need to work. In Kathmandu, all expedition guides arrived: Sergei Larin, Denis Provalov and Noel Hanna. Preparation enters on the final stage.

10.04.2013. In the airport.

for the beginning of a briefing.

A speech of Alex.

 General  and official photo: 31 members and guides.

Dinner in the Royal Palace

13.04.2013

Thank you Nepal! We had busy days and wonderful evenings, we had fun in our beloved Kathmandu. But now we are landed in the capital of Tibet, at a new altitude. The journey to Everest begins.

Photos of Denis Provalov

15.04.2013. 

One group (main) under leadership of Alex Abramov started from Lhasa. The second group with Noel Hanna (guides and sherpas) goes with a baggage via Nialam and Jangmu.