2012. April, 8.  Alexander Abramov from Kathmandu, Expedition Everest - 2012. Today, Sergei Larin was due to arrive, but his flight was detained. He is still in Delhi. Yesterday 20 of our Sherpas had already left to the base camp. They will establish a base camp. And with them went our guide Noelle Hannah. Tomorrow the first members of the expedition began to arrive. This two Americans, Nathan Schneider and Jozeff Pratt ... And the next day all of our expedition arrives. It's about 25 people, all gathered in Kathmandu. The 12th we all fly to Lhasa, and from there to the base camp. Good-bye! We are all well.

With Valery Babanov

2012. April, 10.

Tonight most of the 7 Summits Club expedition members took off from rainy Moscow in the direction of Nepal. According to the plan, tomorrow they should be solemnly met at the airport in Kathmandu. And on the 12th April we have tickets to the capital city of Tibet Lhasa. From there it begins the path to the base camp of Mount Everest on motor vehicles. The first group of Sherpas from our expedition had already gone to arrange the base camp.

Guides and members of the expedition:

Permit Everest:

Guides (4):
Expedition leader Alexander Abramov (48), Sergey Bogomolov (61), Noel Hanna (Ireland, 45), guide and doctor Sergei Larin (51).

Members (16):
Visa Yusupov (60), Leila Albogachieva (42), Aznor Khadzhiev (40), Vladimir Korenkov (56), Magomed Aushev (59) Musa Hadziev (57) - a team of Ingushetia.

Ludmila Korobeshko (37), Ivan Dusharin (64), Maxim Shakirov (44) - Team "Alpari on the tops of the world."

Berdychowski Zygmunt Wladyslaw (Poland, 51), Schneider Nathaniel Raymond (U.S. 33), Pratt III Joseph Hyde (U.S. 56)
Igor Kadochin (42), Cyrille Muraviev (40), Fyodor Konyukhov (60), Vladimir Zaitsev (58).

Permit Changse (North Peak of Mount Everest) - 2.
Semen Deyak (50), Sergei Schekoldin (56).

Trekking Permit - 3.
Marian Surunchap (50), Machuca Tomochkanov (37), Maadyr-ool Khovalyg (64) – Tuva Republic Team

On April 10, after a sleepless night, our team finally landed in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Our layover in Delhi turned into a battle with the representatives from Jet Air, who, after rummaging through our luggage, decided that we were carrying dangerous cargo and told us that they couldn’t take our equipment any further. We told them about our expedition to Everest and explained how important that hardware is to us.

We finally got them to come around, but only after giving them our autographs and a couple of Alpari t-shirts (and showing their managers the site).

When we got into Kathmandu, we were met with a flurry of commotion, rickshaws and rain.

This evening we are going to unwind with a nice dinner. Tomorrow we’ll pack up our things. On April 12, we fly out to Lhasa, Tibet.

-Lyudmila Korobeshko

Five minutes after we got the message from our captain, Maxim called to describe the team’s emotional state. Not everything he told us is suitable for print, so we’ll leave you with a few choice excerpts: “unpleasant”, “over weight”, “couldn’t get any sleep”, “Dusharin has gingivitis”.

We hope a decent meal will help cheer you guys up.

2012. April, 12. 

Today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club visited the Potala, the former palace of the Dalai Lama. All members were delighted. We note a good attitude, hospitality of Tibetans.Everything in this country seems unusual. Even the World Map they have unusual ....

Alex Abramov and Mingma (Director 7 Summits Adventures) visited the STMA - Tibet Climbers Alliance, which organizes our Everest expedition. We met with the chairman of the STMA Mr. Chang. And the manager, whose name is Tsedron. The meeting was held in a friendly atmosphere.

 2012. April, 14.

The Everest expedition 7 Summits Club Everest meets the Easter holidays in the heart of Tibet. We spent a day in the city of Shigatse (3900m). It was very successful day. Nice sunny weather favored sightseeing tour, acclimatization, food intake and religious reflection on the eve of Easter. Next stop is Xegar (4200m).

 2012. April, 16.T oday there was a lot of things "at first"

First, we made the first serious acclimatization climb. Hooray! Shegar Dzong was climbed to the top (4800 m). This mountain name is translated as Fortress Xegar and it is very unusual. At its base there is an ancient Buddhist monastery school gelukpa - Xegar. And on the top we met a stupa and prayer flags. The last few tens of meters to go the top led by a very steep scree slope. And from the top we have a stunning view of the Himalayan mountain range and on ...

Yes, yes - this is the second "first" ... we saw Mount Everest. The majestic pyramid with a huge white flag. Probably a strong wind blows the snow off the slopes.

We hope that to the time of our climb the storm will be over.

Tomorrow we go to the base camp of Everest. That is, tomorrow we'll spend the night in 5100. With headaches of course, what would be a good for acclimatization.

A trip to Tibet inevitably ends up arriving at the base camp. As the most exciting moment in which we remember the first sight of Everest, from the pass. Here, each participant would like to part with the old life and makes a decisive step into the future.

Puja ceremony was held this morning. It was a prayer for the success of the expedition. Wind was blowing to the top - up the hill. So, it is time to go up. Now cooks prepare our traditional borshch (beet-root soap). The first group goes up to an intermediate camp, and tomorrow to the Advance Base Camp at 6400m altitude. Today, Semion Deyak has to come back from Dzhangmu. We sent him down with symptoms of acute mountain sickness. We think it is all good now. Alex Abramov.

Today, May 12th, the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillman’s Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 – 17 of May a weather "window" is expected and our Sherpas plan to finish supply of goods and equipment to the camp at 8300m. And we (Alex and Mingma) probably go up to the Changtse in this brief moment of calm. Weather forecast promised after 22 May good conditions and we plan to climb the main Peak on these days ...

Alex Abramov

Thanks to Alex there was a meeting of generations: 13-year-old Jordan and Nicholay (a legend of Mount Everest, aa  www.jordanromero.com)

Changtse, South Ridge

Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours, the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although Northern ! "

The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the expedition continues.

May, 17. On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.

Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.

First group: guide Noel Hanna, Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry, James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Second group. Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.

Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.

May, 20. The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second group remains in the camp ABC. Waiting on Everest, tedious, anxious - it is a heavy need. The main thing is not to get sick, save a form. Wind is expected to become moderate already the next night. However, in the coming days are expected with snowfalls. Would it be a good window for climb?

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.

Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day.

May, 22.  The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), Unfortunately, there is first loss. For reasons of health, Pole Krzysztof Ginalsky went down, he has very bad cough. This morning 13 - year-old Jordan Romero reached the summit. We are in anxiety about our American friends and are waiting for them on their way down.

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., before getting dark. It looks as a new word in tactics of Everest climb. According to our calculations, our group should reach the top of Everest in the 4-30 - 5-00 a.m. local time. The second group came to the camp 7700 meters, everything is OK.

First group: guide Noel Hanna (Ireland), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky (all – Russia), Steve Berry (UK) , James Wilde (USA).

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

May, 24.  At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

May, 26. Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

List of members

Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)

Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)

Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)

James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)

Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)

Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)

Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)

Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Russia (1970)

Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)

Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)

Steven BERRY, UK (1955)

Guides

Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader

Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide

Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide

Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition

Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor

Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)

Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)

Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)

Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)

Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)

On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the leader of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and director of Asian Trekking - Dawa Steven Sherpa.

These competitions were designed as a team competition between expeditions. Therefore, the participation fee in the amount of $ 10 per person were paid no Sherpas, but by leaders of expeditions. 11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club and 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from the team of Jamie McGuinness took part in the competitions.

Competitions were held on speed, as pair races without time fixing (elimination system or knock-out system). As a result, 1-st place (as well as 3 and 4) got the Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club, second place went to a Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The winners received prize money provided by the organizers: $ 200 for 1-st place, 100 for second, 50 for 3rd and 50 for 4 th place.

After the competition, all participants ate dalbat and discussed the competition and their results.

Numerous spectators, journalists of the leading Nepali newspapers, legendary climbers were all delighted with this event. President of Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tsering offered to make it as an annual event and hold them between all the expeditions, departing on Everest.

Great Sherpa Apa (in green) is going for the 20 th climb the summit of Everest. At this time his mission is to place the ashes of Mt Everest conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary on the summit of the world's tallest mountain

April, 8

Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the remaining members team - all 16 people. They landed with a delay of 8 hours, committing an additional landing in India.

In the evening we had a "Familiarization briefing”, goes into a festive dinner. Alexander Abramov showed participants a slide show with their nearest future. Then the team members a little drunk, but happy, had gone to rest in the famous Hotel Yak and Yeti.

April, 9

In the morning we all went to the bus tour of Kathmandu, along with the best guide, whose name was Varvara. That evening there was the distribution of team jackets and shirts. Then we moved to the best restaurant in town named "Kaiser" ...

Tomorrow, April 10, according to the plan we purchase of personal equipment and packing goods. April 11, we must fly to Lhasa.

 For two days the team spent in the capital of Nepal. Kathmandu is changing, becoming more and more European city. Many Russian to meet. Team members visited all the main attractions, including the best restaurants.

April 11:  we said goodbye to the hotel and went to the airport.

During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and family are: “What are the hotels like?” and “What do you guys eat every day?” That said this entry is not about Everest but about the food we are eating and what we will plan to eat.

 The staple of the Nepali and Everest Climb diet is the famous Mo Mo. Mo Mos come in a variety of shapes and flavors and resemble what most people will recognize as a Spring Roll. The are Yak MoMos, Chicken MoMos, Mystery Meat MoMos, and, my favorite, Veg MoMos. MoMos can be steamed or fried. Any which way you have them, MoMos are great and have an even better name.

 The standard Everest breakfast has many variants (the Russians love to use this word), but there some standard building blocks. The building blocks are chapatti / pancakes, eggs, some form of meat, and bread. Sometimes there is porridge. The variety of egg styles changes every day. Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are scrambled, sometimes they are boiled.

 Dinner is also always very good. Fresh meat and vegetables are served every day. Sometimes we have pizza even. All in all from a food perspective we are well taken care of at the main camps. Above the North Col, we will be eating tea crackers, soup, chocolate, and drinking lots of hot tea and water--- as will most other at the high camps.

 Today the group went to Shegar and walked through the new and old parts of the village. We made our way up to the monastery. After a short visit to the monastery, the team proceeded up to the top of the hill. Everyone was in good form and made the top.

 Now we have free time until dinner at 8 and will begin tomorrow at 8 o’clock on the ride to base camp. The truck is filled with all sorts of goodies for base camp, and the team is anxious to get there.

Best regards from Shegar,

Jamie (photo in the middle)

On behalf of the 7 Summits Club team

The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move up to ABC in a few weeks.

 For some out there, Everest Base Camp is something very hard to comprehend. 5200 meters is higher than Mont Blanc, and the barometric pressure (oxygen level) is about 60% of that where most of us normally reside. Nights at base camp are warm in the group tents, and people think that with all the luxury provided on such an expedition that this is an easy undertaking. The truth is that we must all head back to our tents and sleep in sub zero temperatures for the next 40 days!

 The one great thing going for us is that we have Alex and his guides looking out for us. We have a good level of comfort. The food is well prepared and the corners are not cut here. There are two doctors with us and we are all being monitored closely. The program is well structured and the first rule here is all about safety.

 So what is base camp like to live in? Well, currently there are 100 people waiting and acclimatising. There is a LOT of gossip going around. The big talk this year is of the boy who wants to climb Everest. Some think it is a publicity stunt, some who know the family think it is pressure from the parents to pick up where they left off, and some really dont give a damn. In any case this is the story on the north side.

 During our time in base camp, we will go for short walks, eat, read books, watch movies and avoid getting ill. There will be much speculation as to what teams have the best acclimatisation schedule, when the weather window will come, and which team is strongest.

 Our base camp is pretty well up the Rongbuk, just below the morraine dam. This keeps us isolated well from both the fierce Everest wind as well as rumors. It also is a shorter walk up to IBC, which is a great benefit...

 In any case all is well and we are all settling in. I am sure that everyone in the team wants to thanks their friends and family for allowing them the opportunity to pursue this great dream. We are all thinking of you.

 Best regards from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

Jamie (on behalf of the 7 Summits Club Team)

Let’s hydrate the world!

James Wilde
Managing Director & Founder
Global H2OAbout the Foundation

 One day members of the expedition visited the monastery of Rongbuk. There our Dr. Igor Pokhvalin performed miracles with the help of simple tablets. And the other team members trained on the sacred rock. So we all deserve a miracle. And in the evening the miracle happened… at the base camp. Huge glowing pylon rose up between the tents. It was a miracle worthy deeds of the Gods. If it had happened a hundred years ago, all of Tibetian fell to the feet of Alexander Abramov. But even now, we feel that respect for our leader among Tibetans have risen.

3 May.

Alexander Abramov reports from the camp ABC. Our Everest expedition went to the ABC camp. Climbers successfully carried out an acclimatization ascent to the North Col. Guide Sergey Larin with three members Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov and Andrei Perepelkin stayed on an additional night at the North Col. After three nights of rest, we'll go for a second acclimatization ascent, this time to the height of 7700 m. All goes as planned, the weather is normal: with snow almost every day after lunch. And now it's snowing, in spite of the forecast.

ABC: when it is a good weather

6 May.

In recent days, there was a peak of bad weather. In the morning, on May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. We, four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin, Noel Hanna, after consultation, decided to turn the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises to bad weather and the forecast is justified.

Snow falls in the base camp too. We must wait till end of this attack of monsoon. Thus, the process of acclimatization is complete. We decided to organize rest for the team until May 9 holiday, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.

Climb North summit, we also plan to climb after May 9. We are now 16 climbers and 12 Sherpas. Everybody felt fine.

10 May.

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.

We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.

The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.

Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.

Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .

People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!

About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.

But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.

Best regards,

Alex Abramov

President of "7 Summits Club"

May, 15.  We are proud to report that the entire team has successfully reached the summit yesterday shortly past midday! Team pictures were taken on the summit of .... Kala Patthar at 5550m. Since we all were stuck at the Base Camp for several days in a row because of bad weather, all felt that something needed to be accomplished, a short break from the camp had to be taken, and some work must be given to our muscles which got way too used to tent-ridden horisontal positions.

Hense, we took a 1.5 hr hike to Gorak Shep, the last permanent outpost of "civilization" before the Base Camp, and onto Kala Patthar, a nearby summit offering magnificent panorama of the Khumbu glacier, the Base Camp and the Everest Summit, together with the North Col and the south Col of the mountain. A few minutes after we summited a strong winds from the nearby Pumori "blew" us down to Gorak Shep where we had a little celebratory lunch.

Now that the weather has stabilized (knock on wood) we are finally bound for the ultimate summit push. Needless to say everybody is psyched and is busy checking the inventory of everything one might need on the mountain. We are scheduled to head up the Ice Fall before dawn tomorrow morning (May 16), with subsequent stops at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the way to the Summit. Provided everything runs smoothly, we will be on the mountain during the next 7-10 days.

May,16.

Today Seven Summits Club started summit attempt. Thay plan to climb to Summit of Everest 20 and 21 of May. 8 clients, 4 guides, 11 Sherpas and doctor went to Camp 1. It took 4 hours. The mood and feeling of all are excellent. The weather is good.

Tomorrow entire team will go to Camp 2.

May, 19.

Message from Alexander Abramov. A few hours ago, Abu Elmezov made a successful ascent to the top of Everest, becoming the first Balkars at the top of the world. At this point, he come down, have gone beyond the South summit.

Seven Summits Club warmly congratulates him on this achievement!

Alexander Abramov and the first group of 7 Summits Club’s expedition located in the South Col (8000m) and has less than 2 hours - 8 pm today (May 19) for Nepal (about 6 pm in Moscow) is planning to go to the summit.

The list of participants of the group:

Alexander Abramov (Russia) - head

Bobok Victor (Russia) - a guide

Khutorovsky Vladimir (Russia)

Karpenko, Andrew (Moldova)

Dmitry Nikitin (Russia)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Netherlands)

MARIN Michael James (U.S.)

We are waiting for further developments and to keep kids fists!

May, 20.

Today the first team of 7 Summits Club’s expedition successfully reached the summit.

List of summiters:

Alex ABRAMOV (Russia) – head

Viktor BOBOK (Russia) – guide

KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)

KARPENKO Andrey (Moldavia)

NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)

MARIN Michael James (USA)

KARPENKO Andrey is the first Moldavian reached the Everest summit.

May, 21.

This morning the second group of 7 Summits Club in full force reached the Everest summit!

This group was led by legendary Russian climber Nicholay Cherhy.

These are the people who stood at the highest point of the planet:

SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)

HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)

HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)

Nikolay Cherny (Russia) - guide

Maksim Bogatirev (Russia) - guide

In total, during the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov 12 people reached the Summit: 8 participants and 4 guides.

We warmly congratulate all with this achievement!

In the course of our 7 Summits Club Everest 2009 expedition the following records were registered:

 - Andrey Karpenko became the first Moldavian to stand on top of Everest

 - Lynne Hanna and Noel Hanna became the first married couple from Ireland to get to the top of Everest together

 - Patrick Singh became the first Gyuanian born to climb Mount Everest

 - Nickolay Cherny for the second time became the oldest Russian on top of Everest

Today both groups are descending to Base Camp (5100m) for a couple of days rest and then will proceed to Lukla and Kathmandu.

From the point of view of science, from the point of view of practice and common sense, before attempting to climb the highest peak of the World, Everest, you need to get some experience of working at extreme heights. That is, simply put, to test yourself by taking part in an expedition to a lower and simpler eight-thousander. This is not only a test of physical capabilities, but also gaining experience  working in the expedition team, just the practice of staying in conditions "close to combat". If you want to participate in the ascent of Mount Everest in 2021, the 7 Summits Club strongly recommends that you take part in our autumn expedition to the eighth highest peak in the World, Mount Manaslu (8156 m). In it, you will get to know the participants of the future expedition to Everest, guides and our irreplaceable partners Sherpas.

Program of ascent on Manaslu in the fall of 2020

By the end of the 2007 Everest expedition, it was clear that the next year would be difficult. The Chinese clearly stated that only one team would go to the top from their side. The one that will carry the Olympic flame. Therefore, there was no other option but to prepare an expedition to Mount Everest from the South. However, closer to the start, it turned out that the Chinese were not limited to closing their side. They convinced the Nepalese that until the Olympic flame reaches the top, no one should be on the route from the South. As a result, it was announced that all work on preparing the route from the Nepalese side will begin after May 10. After learning about this, Alexander Abramov decided to postpone the expedition to the next year.

 Most of the failed 2008 expedition members were determined to go to Everest from the South. In addition, it became known that there was unrest in Tibet. And in General, the trust in Chinese bureaucrats was undermined. So the 2009 expedition was initially prepared from the South.

 March 20, the advance team of Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition started off for Katmandu. The team consists of: Abramov Alexander (leader), Nikolay Cherny (guide), Maxim Bogatiryov (guide). They arrived in Nepal before the whole group, to prepare everything necessary for the expedition. Then Nicholay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov will go to the Everest Base Camp for arrangement for the arrival of participants.

The expedition will take place from 20 March till 10 June 2009.

For Alexander Abramov (Captain of the Seven Summits Club and permanent Leader of Seven Summits Club Everest expeditions) it is the seventh Everest expedition. But this expedition is unique in many ways. It is the first time when Seven Summits Club conducts the expedition form the South (from Nepal). Secondly, this year major part of the group consists of the citizens of other countries.

The list of participants of the expedition:

KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)

CARPENCO Andrey (Moldavia)

NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)

Mr Philippe Burlet (France)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)

MARIN Michael James (USA)

CRELLIN John Anthony (Great Britain)

SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)

HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)

HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

Guides:

Nikolay Cherny (Russia)

Maksim Bogatirev (Russia)

Viktor Bobok (Russia)

Doctor and base camp manager:

Avaz Makthalikov

***

4 April. Alex Abramov from Kathmandu:

 Yesterday all participants of the expedition came to Kathmandu. There is the list of participants of the expedition:

Guides

Russia Abramov Alexander

Russia Bogatyrev Maxim

Russia BOBOK Victor

Russia CHERNYY Nikolay

Dr. Uzbekistan Matkhalikov Avazkhon

Participants

Russia KHUTOROVSKIY Vladimir

Moldova CARPENCO Andrei

Russia NIKITIN Dmitry

France Mr Philippe Burlet

Dutch RAVENSTIJN Erik

US MARIN Michael James

UK CRELLIN John Anthony

Canada SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine

UK HANNA Lynne

Irish HANNA Noel

4 guides + 10 members + 11 Sherpas + 4 cooks and 2 assistants cook

Total 32

 At this moment the whole expedition’s cargo has already arrived at the Everest Base camp. 9 Sherpas and 3 cooks came to the Base camp too. We are working to clear areas in the Khumbu(5100m), and the installation of tents. We have TV and DVD with Karaoke in the Base camp. We will be singing "Katyusha" to drum up all women`s expedition. In connection with the homeland, we have brought and set up satellite modem for the Internet.

This is something that is already in the mountains ...

 Yesterday it was a meeting in Kathmandu in Nepal`s Tourism Ministry, where we handed to Permit and introduced to Lisan officer, which should help us to organize the expedition.

 We hope fly to Luklu on April 4. Weather in Luklu is bad, and 2 days did not fly airplanes. A huge queue established of people and goods. We are trying to resolve this problem.

***

5 April

Yesterday we went to the airport in order to fly to Lukla. We passed the queue other expeditions, draggled our trunks, got into a small plane. After 15 minutes we were asked to go out and wait, because the weather in Lukla became bad. But five minutes later we again went to take off. Weather deteriorated completely, and the plane turned over Lukla, after 20 minutes we were back in Kathmandu. Now we find ourselves at the end of the queue. 

At that time, two guides 7 Summits Club Nikolay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov and Sherpas establish a Base camp. Already they made a dining room, mess-room with TV, karaoke, and Internet and a washhouse. 

Here are some photos sent from Khumbu Glacier.

9 April The team reached Namche Basar by helicopter

***

13 April

Today all the participants of the Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov arrived to the Base Camp. They had a holiday dinner on this subject. During the lunch Alex Abramov announced the program for the following days. In the next two days, participants will have a rest, check the equipment and training on the ice. And then they will go to the ABC (6400m). 

***

 15 April.

Buddhist puja ceremony this morning officially opened our camp and the blessing was given to the climb, the climbers and climbing gear. Now buddhist prayer flags criss-cross the camp. 

In the afternoon the climbing team made its first incursion to Khumbu Ice Fall. The roundtrip took 3 hours during which the equipment was checked, and tested. We crossed crevasses, two of them with the help of alluminium ladders. Today`s short climb offered spectacular panorama of the basecamp and surrounding peaks.

***

19 April. The entire team returned to the base camp today after successfull acclimatization trip to Camp 1 at 6000m. 

Crossing Khumbu Icefall was the first serious exercise of the trip. The Icefall is constantly moving, so we had to leave early before the sun started to melt the ice formations, some of which reach the hight of a 5-6 storey building. The reward at the end of the trip was an awesome view of Mt Everest (which can`t be seen from the Base Camp), the Western Cwm, which we will have to cross during the climb, and the peaks of Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, Pumori and Nuptse. We stayed overnight at Camp 1. 

Just prior to heading back down the Icefall at 5:30 am we learned that there was an ice avalanche overnight, so half of our trip down the Fall took place accross the terrain that was changed beyond recognition from the previous day. Here near Mt Everest one is truly confronted face to face with the nature`s awesome might.

***

22 April. As the days are getting longer and the Sun is becoming warmer we are getting ready to head up for our second acclimatization trip tomorrow. Given earlier sunrise we are planning for a 5 am start up the Icefall. We will spend next two nights in Camp 1 (6000m)and Camp 2 (6400m) before heading back to Base Camp on Saturday. 

Today is the rest day.

***

27 April.

It is a rest day at the Base Camp after going to Camp 2 - Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Our ABC is located right at the foot of Mt. Everest`s Western wall and overlooks other camps at the location. From ABC one looks straight at Western Cwm - a giant amphitheater made up by the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse wall. From ABC we could also see our future route climbing Lhotse face, crossing the site of Camp 3 (7300m) and continuing across the Yelow band (a distinct layer of light rock crossing the black wall from left to right). The route then crosses Geneva Spur (7600m) and leads onto South Col - a saddle between Everest and Lhotse at roughly 8000m, and the site of our future Camp 4, the summit camp. 

It was windy at times during the trip, but overall everybody made it fine through this acclimatization trip and through spending a night at Camp 1 and another at ABC. Our time of crossing Khumbu Ice Fall was significantly better - about half of the time it took us the first time around. Today we learned that high winds raked Western Cwm and some of the tents at ABC got flattened by it, so the camp has to be partially reconstructed in the coming days. 

We plan our next climb after several days` rest, probably towards the second half of the week of April 27.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

ABC

28 April.

A couple of days ago the entire group bid farewell to Phillipe Bourlet, who left the climb for his native Grenoble, France. For further climbs two sub-groups were formed:

Team One: Andrei, Vladimir, Dmitry, Michael and Eric

Team Two: Lynn, Noel, Patric and John.

Team One is heading up the Ice Fall tomorrow, April 29, for the final acclimatization trip that will go through C1 and ABC to Camp 3 (7300m) and on to Geneva Spur (7800m). Team two will take the same route one day later. Both teams will attempt the entire route without use of supplemental oxygen. 

The wind has died overnight and it is a beautiful sunny and hot day at the Base Camp. Reports from ABC are that all the supplimentary hardware and other material has been brought up to the camp. Thus, the fly-away kitchen tent, toilet tent (with the barrell?), and collapsed dining tent and member tents should all be restored by the time Team One reaches ABC on April 30. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.

8 May. 

While most participants of Everest expeditions rest and gain strength in the woods, Seven Summits Club`s guides and other members of the expedition did not lose time for nothing.

Base Camp

RAVENSTIJN Erik

MARIN Michael James

Seven Summits Club`s guide Nikolay Chernyi masters technological innovation

May 9, Seven Summits Club expedition celebrated Victory Day in the Base camp of Everest. Preparations for the festive evening took the entire day. Club Guides Max Bogatyryov and Viktor Bobok set generator and karaoke. Sherpas prepared food and drink. 

But suddenly the holiday was threatened. And the Seven Summit Club’s expedition almost lost its leader. In anticipation of the celebration of the Victory Day, Alexander Abramov came round the base camp, inviting guests from other expeditions. On the road from the Alpine Ascents BC to Seven Summits Club’s BC Alex fell into the crevasse filled with water. Only the cap remained dry. He tried to communicate with his guides on the radio, but radio got wet and did not work. "It is insulting to die at the base camp" - thought Alex and with great difficulty got out of the crack. He squeezed out thermal underwear and puff. Abramov had to drink 200 grams of vodka, and drink after 100 grams of whiskey to the end that didn’t get ill. 

Just an hour later started festive evening devoted to the Victory Day. The evening was held at a high level. There were many distinguished guests: guides of Russell Bruise, Karri Kobler, Dawa Stiven and his customers, Kazakh expedition lead by Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky, Boris Korshunov and Abu Elmezov. 

This evening completed a week of rest. Seven Summits Club expedition on Everest entered to the final stage. In the coming days, participants will be on the ascent.

Max and generator

Set karaoke

Alex Abramov and Viktor Bobok

Party

The 7 Summits Club decided to support its regular Sherpa workers in difficult times. Due to the lack of work in the spring season, many of them found themselves in a difficult financial situation. And our help came very, very timely. The guys are grateful "from the heart".

 According to information from the head of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal, our good friend Mingma Gelu, the country will be fully open to tourists from August 1. The epidemiological situation in Nepal has long been considered quite favorable for this. It remains only to agree on the air transportation system, rules and procedure for returning to normal life.

 The 7 Summits Club is optimistic about the prospects for the autumn season in Nepal. We have already prepared expeditions to the eight-thousandth Manaslu  and Makalu, which you can still join. And all our traditional programs will be held, including Ama Dablam, Mera peak, Island peak, trekking to Everest Base camp, etc…

May, 15. 2007 АВС Camp, Everest from the North, 6400м.

 Alex Abramov:  Today May, 15. A fourth day we are in АВС waiting for a start of climb upward. 12-th and May, 13-th a lot of climbers has left АВС for an ascent. Today the first groups reached the top. Since morning, even to the naked eye, it was possible to see on a snow triangle under the top tens people going upwards and downwards. On hearings, today from 150 up to 200 person has left on storm. At noon we could see, that under the summit some rescue operation have begun. It it is no wonder when it is so many climbers. By the way, the younger sister of our sirdar Mingma Gelu has summited Everest. She was the youngest person in 15 years climbed Everest in 2003. According Mingma, she has reached the summit one of the first, at 5 a.m. climbing alone. And she saw two climbers which, having reached the top from the North, have begun descent to the South. 

We are waiting, when this first wave will subside. Now there are problems with free places on 8300 meters. Probably, tomorrow, our first group will leave for camp of 7000 m and for the further ascent. And next day the second group will start. Under the plan the first group will leave for the summit bid from the camp for 8300 m on May 19, and the second group - on May, 20. Under the forecast that is available here, on May 19 and 20 the wind will decrease and it should be clear.

The first group:

- Hannah Shields

- Curt Myers

- Dirk Feige

- Israfil Ashurly

- Maxim Shakirov

- Sergey Kofanov (guide)

- Sergey Larin (guide)

And also 6 Sherpas.

The second group:

- Bill Tyler

- Sergey Batura

- Andrey Ivanov

- Sergey Dashkevich

- Lyudmila Korobeshko

- Alexander Abramov (guide and expedition leader)

- Alexander Bichenko (guide)

And 6 Sherpas.

Yesterday we have risen up to a stock of equipment, after dinner we have checked up masks, a reducer, have fulfilled tactics of movement in groups and the charge of oxygen on mountain. Tomorrow - up in a way. We shall try to send you information during the climb.

May, 16.

Today our first team led by Sergey Kofanov and Sergey Larin has gone on an ascent. Also with them 5 person: Maxim Shakirov, Israfil Ashurly, Hannah Shields, Curt Myers, Dirk Feige from Germany. Also with them 6 Sherpas, led by Mingma Gelu, 5-times Everest summiter. Today the first team has risen on North Col. Two tents from eight are broken by a bad weather. There is still enough places, we have also a kitchen and a dining tents, and also a toilet. Previous climbers which has passed already about 200 person, have stolen only 2 oxygen cylinders. From 18 cylinders which laid on the Saddle, now remained only 16. It is not very terrible yet, we have some stock of oxygen. But it will be really bad, if we shall miss some oxygen in high camps on 7700 and 8300 meters.

The second team led by Alexander Abramov and Alexander Bichenko, it is five person Andrey Ivanov, Sergey Batura, Sergey Dashkevich, Bill Tyler and Lyudmila Korobeshko. A strong team from six Sherpas goes with us, led by Pemba which works with us three seasons, (he is 6 times Everest summiter) . The second group leaves tomorrow in the morning, May 17-th.

The Weather should be quite good.

May, 15 and May, 16 a plenty of people has climbed Everest. Probably, more than hundred. From different expedition as Summitclimb and Kari Kobler and the Indian Military expedition. Also, a plenty of sportsmen which participate in small expeditions. One of the first, Nima Dolma the sister of ours sirdar has summited. First time she has climbed Everest in the age of 15 years in 2003, it is a record for all climbers.

A little bit about sad, two persons was lost for these two days. One - the Japanese, 67 years, he has died at the Second step. And the second is the Czech climber. He was lost today. He has left in the morning on an ascent, then has returned to camp of 8300 m, has felt badly and there has died. The information is informal.. We hope, that at us all will pass well, normally, without any incidents. Our team is strong, we have a good Sherpas. This year, as against the past, each member has an individual Sherpa. And if the last year we used three cylinders of oxygen this year we use six cylinders as the base offer. Communication also works well. In general, all is normal, there would be a good weather, health and good luck.

May, 18. 2007 Camp 7700 m, Everest from the North.

Our first our team will spend a part of night in camp of 8300 meters, it is assault camp. At night they will leave on storm of the summit.

The second team now is in the camp of 7700 meters and tomorrow under the plan should rise in the camp of 8300 meters. There we should meet a going down first team and next night go on an ascent. Everybody feel healthy, all 14 members and 12 Sherpas. One unpleasant moment: in the high camp, four cylinders of oxygen were stolen. But we have six more spare which we now again lift upward.

Such is Everest - people rescue his life due to others.

I think, that tomorrow in the morning, at 9-10 a.m. all will be known. The first team should reach the top to this time. Naturally, that will be only half of way, still it is necessary to go down - on the Everest usually this is most difficult.

Forum 7summits.com:

May 18th: Bill Tyler: happy at camp 2, 7700m

« on: Today at 16:07:44 »

Hope these are getting annoying but i wanted you all to have as much info as i do during bills summit push! He called me this morning around 630am, they were just getting ready to go to sleep. He made it to a new high for himself! Yippee! 7700 meters! WOW. It took him 4 hours to get there, apparently they climbed through a pretty heavy snow storm...but the weather still looks good for summit day. He climbed on oxygen which helped. When he called me he said he had been off the oxygen for a few hours and was feeling good. He is going to sleep on oxygen and then tommrrow they will head up to camp 3! (they go for summit from camp 3! 8300meters) He said he will call me when he wakes up....(this afternoon for us).

May, 19.  2007 Camp 7700 – 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Morning call (6 a.m. in Moscow):

Now in Tibet is 10 a.m... The First team has gone down from the summit to the Second step. Now they have already passed descent from the Second step, as a key place. Now the team sits on … breakage of connection …. 12 person reached the top and now sit on "mushroom", it is a rock as a mushroom which is at the basis of the Second step. This place where usually rest and leave spare cylinders. On the spot …. breakage of connection …. The weather favours.

The second team will begins an ascent on camp of 8300 m in one hour, on road we should meet the first team.

7 p.m. Tibetan time

Alexander Abramov from slopes of Everest

Now our second team under my leadership is at height of 8300 meters. The first team, today having made a successful ascent on Everest, has already gone down to the North Col. The majority of its members have gone down already to camp ABC, 6500 meters.

Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.

Our second team is now in the camp 8300. We prepare for an ascent. In 5 hours, at 12, the exit is planned. Here there is no opportunity to sleep, we do want to eat, just waiting.

I hope tomorrow we send you new information, on how will be finished our climb.

Wish good luck us good luck !

May, 20.  2007 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Today the second group have summited Everest. We have left at midnight and in 8 a.m. were at the top of Everest. Now it is 11:30, at eleven we all has reached the camp 8300 m. We plan to begin descent in 10-15 minutes. Up to height … we want, as a minimum to pass by camp of 7700 meters, to go down in camp of 7000 meters, or even better in АВС. I want to name summiters:

Alexander Bichenko, guide, from Kamchatka;

Alexander Abramov (second time Everest);

Sergey Batura, Nakhodka Russian Fer East and Byelorussia;

Andrey Ivanov, from Kamchatka;

Sergey Dashkevich, from Kamchatka;

Bill Tyler, an American.

My wife, Lyudmila Korobeshko became the first woman from Moscow and third of Russia on Everest. We were the first married couple from Russia at the top of Everest.

Well, we have not gone down yet. While we are in the camp of 8300 m.

A new expedition to Everest from the 7 Summits-Club  under the leadership of Alex Abramov started March, 21. This year our team will be include 17 climbers, the head, four guides and a doctor. 23 persons alltogher. Approximately as much will be the attendants, including group of high-altitude porters led by our favourite sirdar Mingma.

  The main group takes off March, 28. This time a way of expedition in the base camp will pass through Lhasa, capital of Tibet where participants of expedition will be delivered by plane from Katmandu. This variant is more expensive, but saves forces and allows to avoid possible troubles on road. Plus to everything, all members dream to visit the capital of Tibet.

 The route of an ascent - classic, system of an arrangement and maintenance of camps will be similar last year`s. The current information will be transferred by the satellite phone, in particular to the Risk.ru site.

 The most part of members sets as the purpose to climb Mount Everest, but there are persons which have limited itself to rise on North Col. Maxim Shakirov will carry an Olympic flag of the city of Sochi (Olympic Games 2014) to the summit. And in same time the Chinese climbers will work on the slopes. They prepare for realization in 2008 of relay race of Olympic fire. So two flags can meet in the area of summit.

The list of participants of expeditiont:

 - John Delaney, Ireland

- Maxim Shakirov, Russia

- Israfil Ashurly, Russia - Azerbaijan

- Andrey Zajtsev, Russia

- Andrey Ivanov, Russia

- Sergey Dashkevich, Russia

- Sergey Batura, Russia

- Hannah Shields, British

- William Hazelton Tyler III, USA

- Curt Myers, USA

- Dirk Feige, German

- Armenak Tigranian, Russia

- Dmitry Zjuz`, Ukraine

- Armen Rshtuni, Russia

- Bruce Matthews, New Zealand

- Rafael Nagapetianz, Russia

- Alexander Kibalko, Russia

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

Guides:

- Sergey Kofanov, Russia

- Alexander Bichenko, Russia

- Sergey Larin, Russia

- Lyudmila Korobeshko, Russia

Doctor and base camp manager:

Andrey Selivanov.

April, 4. 

Yesterday, April, 3 we have left hospitable Nepal and in one and a half hour we have landed at the airport of Lhasa. Height 3600м, we have felt it at once. On words of Hanna, which was here 14 years ago, the capital of Tibet has transformed beyond recognition. Lhasa now is modern City with wide prospectuses, supermarkets… But if to deviate in lateral narrow streets - as at once you get in completely other world. Here there are old Tibetan small houses painted in five colors with flat roofs, monks and Tibetians in national clothes, in each second court yard- Temple or Buddhist stupas.

Today, since morning we have visited the main relic of Tibet - Potala, a palace of Dalai Lama with its 13 floors and 999 rooms. On the top floor one Chinese woman has felt very badly. The doctor by a trade of Hanna Shields has come to the aid and has rescued her. The altitude is felt, in every room of our hotel there are artificial oxygen. 

At this time Alexander Abramov bought yoghurts, beers, milk and - the most important - a tennis table for base camp!!

In the evening we have gone to the Tibetan restaurant with evening show. Show was pleasant unexpectedness: on a stage in dance and with songs was the Tibetan rural life is reproduced in details. Even yaks were on a stage. All this - under monotonous fight of drums. And toward the end all people were united in joint dance around of tables. 

While we enjoyed the Tibetan delicacies, Abramov battled at office China Mobile. Local agents very badly understand English, but all necessary SIM-cards for base camp were bought. Аlex has won!

Tomorrow we leave in Shigatse (3900м). And therefrom we shall go in Shigar. Under the plan to the evening April,8 should reach the base camp. 

Korobeshko Lyudmila from Lhasa, Tibet.

Yesterday, April, 8 the main group (14 person + Lyudmila Korobeshko) has arrived to the Base Camp at height 5200 m. We were met by Sergey Kofanov, Alexander Bichenko, Andrey Selivanov, which here already about one week here. They had time to prepare all camp with the maximal comfort for our arrival. Here was also Alexander Abramov, he has arrived in BC day prior to us that to be convinced of readiness of camp.

 In the evening we have sat behind dinner in honour of the official beginning of a sports stage of expedition. Before it we had time to put a special tent ("sports hall") with a tennis table inside and even have carried out some matches.

 The first night on 5200 m was disturbing. The guide Sergey Kofanov unexpectedly fall severely ill. Early in the morning, doctor Andrey Selivanov has gone together with Sergey on a jeep in Xegatse, to the regional hospital. There is a suspicion on appendicitis though it is possible, that this simply strong food poisoning. His friend Armen Rshtuni accompany them. If it will be necessary he will stay with Sergey, and doctor Andrey Selivanov should return in BC. Today in the morning April, 9 Armenak Tigranian has left our expedition. To regret, he has fallen a victim to mountain illness. Anything dangerous. Soon he should arrive to Moscow healthy, though tired.

 Other members of expedition feel like more or less normally: today since morning we have taken a walk down to Old Rongbuk. The day after tomorrow we leave up to 5800 m - Intermediate Camp - and there we spend a night. Then we shall go downwards and after rest we shall go on 6400 m – to АВС.

From Bruce (www.7summits.com)

 …We arrived at Base Camp yesterday at around lunch time...lunch consisted of mushroom soup, grilled chicken and cold slaw and fruit salad. There are always cases of Coke, Sprite and Beer available as well as pringle chips, biscuits fruit juices and naan bread. Supper was much the same in that it was a three course meal. Most members of the expedition who have done other climbs are amazed at the fare and accommodation etc. Unfortunately, our pool tabe met it`s demise on one of the passes and is now shattered. However, the ping pong table is set up in its own tent next to the entertainment tent which has two tv`s, games, dart board etc!

 Base Camp has been described by some as bleak...and then by those returning to recover from higher, as paradise! The camp is situated at the end of the Central Rongbuk glacier and runs North from that point. Everest is behind you and the camp slopes downhill. As it is a morain, it is like being on a large dried river bed with mostly stones and sand and very few big rocks. If you can visualize standing up at 7Summits-Club camp, up against the high end of a rocky glacier, the base camp runs down the west boundary for approx 1/3 kilometers and narrows a bit at the bottom. The North boundary and South boundary are roughly 500 meters each and the east boundary about 1 kilometer. It is large abd there are presently 13 different expeditions. I walked the boundary yesterday and that was 3 kilometers and took an hour...this indicates how slowly one needs to move her to adapt….

 From Bill (www.7summits.com)

 Me and a guy named Arman climbed up the back side of the monastery up to about 4100m for good excercise. But I was glad to move on from there yesterday to here. the hotel was the same as I remember. Cold at night. On the way Alex bought a pool table for basecamp, A POOL TABLE!! I think that is a first for Everest But it broke on the trip. But good try. The road took us over a 5200m pass, where we stopped for a few minutes and took in the sights. We did get to see Everest off in the distance at a point on the road, and she was looking formidable.

 Tomorrow we head up to base camp, to settle in and start the actual expedition. this year there are over 30 teams on the north side alone, including a huge Chinese team of 120 summit permits. We all are worried that we will get trapped behind some of these other expeditions and have to turn back because they are too slow. But only time will tell.

April, 18 2007 Everest BC from the North, 5200м.

 Yesterday we have gone down from АВС (Advanced Base Camp), 6400м. Upwards up to Intermediate camp we went on the average 4 hours, up to Advanced - 4,5 hours. In the evening April, 16 after arrival in АВС we have left under a wall of North Col. Sherpas have already fixed cords, we saw group of 4 person on the wall. In the same evening Maxud Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov called on us. They plan go up to the North Col or is even higher in the first exit.

 Next day April, 17 all of us have gone down in base camp to beer, to voblas, to a bath and club where it is possible to look films and to work in internet.

 In the morning April, 18 Armen Rshtuni and Bruce Matthews have left our expedition. Both on family circumstances, not having finished their program "Ascent on North Col".

 Since morning guide Sergey Larin with his mini-team Rafael Nagapetianz and Alexander Kibalko (the well-known skater) have left on the first acclimatization exit. In some hours after them guide Sergey Kofanov has gone upwards. He should finish installation АВС - medical tent, to complete electrification. Then he will help ours Sherpas in upholding our interests on North Col and in high-altitude camps. Our Sherpas one week ago have noted by tags places for our tents in all camps above 6400. But young Sherpas from other expeditions have ignored our tags. It will be necessary to find mutual understanding.

 For all others today was a day of rest – take a bath, play tennis etc. And we drive on a motorcycle which Alex Abramov has hired for the period of expedition.

 The day after tomorrow - we leave upward. We plan to reach the Saddle and to spend a night on 7000м.

April, 30 2007 From Base Camp Everest from the North, 5200м.

Now at 11 a.m. over China. Now we wait with excitement of a radio communication with Маxut Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov. Yesterday April, 29 in 10 p.m. they have left from 7900 on the summit of Everest. They go without oxygen, without using fix-ropes. For last 3 weeks together we have become close friends, and guys became practically a part of our collective.

 Now the most part of our team goes down on rest from АВС. April, 28 we All have left on the final stage of acclimatization from АВС on North Col (7050м). But before of steep part Ludmila Korobeshko and Andrey Zajtsev were forced to turn back on a state of health. This very day we have gone down on 5800. By the way, here in the Middle Camp we have met the interesting Austrian who is going to go solo without oxygen on Hornbein couloir.

 Other group under A.Abramova`s management, with S.Kofanov and A.Bichenko has successfully reached the North Col. After night there, they has left on acclimatization up to 7700 m. At this time Maxud and Vasia have gone on 7900 to establish assault camp. About 7 p.m. they have informed by radio and confirmed the intentions in 10 p.m. to leave on storm. Today in the morning our Sherpas saw small lamps above 8300м.

 All day April, 29 I, Andrey Zajtsev and Sergey Larin sat at a portable radio set. We listened, as Sasha Abramov drove all up to the mark of 7700 meters. They have reached it almost all and this very day they have gone down in АВС. Today we are waiting for all in ВС, 5200. Now under the plan we will have a week of rest before deciding attempt.

Seems like the first Everest summit this season has just taken place! One our ago, at 6 p.m. Chinese time, Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have called on the radio from the summit of Everest ! The two climbers launched a summit push from 7,900m last night at 10 p.m. They have topped-out with no supplementary O2 or Sherpa support.

Maxut and Vassily had already launched a summit push last week, which was twarted by bad weather conditions at the North Col. By Friday they were back in ABC — but not for long. 

Тhe Kazakhs reached the summit at approximately the same time HiMex`s Sherpas fixed ropes on the upper sections of the route. Maxut and Vassily are currently descending, hoping to go down as low as possible and stop by nightfall. "At the worst case, they will sleep at 8,300m.
The weather conditions are currently good, with no strong wind. 

Bill Tyler: back from NC and first 2007 summits on Everest (brief variant)

The trek up to ABC sucked as usual, and I was glad that my times improved dramatically. SO I felt that maybe there is something to training before a trip. We spent 3 days at ABC, 1 due to weather. I felt fine the whole time, with little headaches and short of breath to really make life interesting. It took a few days for mr to sleep longer than 3 hours. We got snow and wind, but I was fine. Warm as heck to say the least. 

The north col is quite steep. Talking with the sherpas and other who have been there last year indicate that it is much steeper than previous years. Nice thing is that is makes it a short distance to go. But it is steep! up to 95degrees in several places. I got on the lines and it took me about 5.5 hours. It was a struggle. Basically you pull yourself up a step, then rest, the do it again, all the while dealing with the wind, snow, and other climbers. There are a lot this year. It just seemed to go on forever. 

I was really glad to finally make the top and see tents. The whole of the tent site is on top of a serac, which someday is going to come crashing down. Lets pray not this year! Again I had no issues with altitude, just a dehydration headache… 

So after the first time at the Col, we spent 2 days resting in ABC. Played a lot of chess and tried to sleep as much as I could!

So I left off after the first time up the north Col. Just as a point of reference, The north col is a bridge between the main mass of Everest, and the North summit of the mountain, called Changste (I will make sure that is the right name for that part of the mountain). This "bridge" allows the climbers to set up a camp to continue to climb. The flank of Everest has no place to camp really, although it has been climbed before. 

After the night at the north col, we dropped down the 400m face by rappelling and walking using the ropes fixed in place. It took 30 mins to go down the face that took 5.5hrs the day before. Sleeping at 7000m really means that you try to find a comfortable spot and then relax enough to let the min drift. There is no deep sleeping. Maybe for some, but no one I know! Sherpas maybe. 

The next three days we spent just resting at ABC. I mean resting. Lay in the tent, look at the roof, roll over and stare at the walls. Eat as much as you can, although there really is no appetite at this altitude either (6400m). If you move and forget that you are this high, You spent a few minutes gasping to regain control. I got pretty good at moving slowly. Ever time I got out of my tent though, I would gasp away. 

So generally the days pass pretty fast, even though we did no do much at all. But I sure could not wait until the next trip up the ropes. I am really glad that the team decided to get all of the acclimatization done at once, instead of retuning to BC and then going back to the north col over that long approach. I hate that! 

So after the three days, up to the north col we went again. I must admit the second time was easier. Maybe because of the mind games, but it was not so bad. I beat my time a little and felt pretty good. But, I got the cough!!! Nothing like last year, where I was coughing up lung chunks, but nonetheless I got the high altitude cough. That night, we mashed down the floor to give us a smoother surface, which helped. One of the reasons that I slept so bad the previous time was because the floor was so bad the three of us ended up with sore backs and spooning on top of each other the whole night. No one could move or turn without disrupting the other two. 

Again I did not sleep a wink. The coughing and thin air just make the night one long trial or endurance.

Up in the morning to head up the long snow ramp to 7500m. at this point, one is actually on the mountain. I felt strong, but a real problem cropped up. 

We started out in our down suits, and the heat was so bad I felt like I was in a hot sauna. No wind, which is very unusual. The down suits are to help us with the wind, but there has got to be some wind!!! I was sweating my brains out, which is exactly what I do not want. I prefer to move as cold as I can stand it, to keep fluids from sweating out. 

The problem that I have is my feet were frozen. I have the best boots money can buy for this sort of thing, but my feet were like lumps of ice. I stopped after about an hour to tell the guides about it and I felt I should go down. I felt strong and had no altitude issues, but I did not want to lose anything. I waited for about 45 mins for Alex to come by. We talked about it and actually called a doctor (we have a new doctor now) and discussed it by radio. At first he thought it was due to a bad heart, but after the talk decided it was due to cold boots. So Alex got me up and moving higher. 

I moved to 7250m and felt really good. I knew that I could have caught up with the team struggling ahead of me. I actually was only one rope length away from the last team members I was moving so fast. But my feet were lumps of ice. I stopped and noticed that one of the team was on his way down. So I waited and Curt came down due to stomach problems. At this point, I told Alex I was going down. I had no issue with it because it was to prevent any damage to my feet. I felt good about going further because I was physically feeling strong, but I needed to figure out what was going on with my feet. 

So we two headed down to the north col, taking out time. Once we got there, we then packed up and headed down to ABC. The ropes were no problem, and we got down to ABC in 1.5hrs. So we were doing well. My feet started to warm up once we got to crampon point, about 6500m. So I am wondering if maybe there is an altitude issue with my feet. 

My personal no oxygen high point is 7250m, I think it is ok. Next time I am even near there, I will be on ox and it wont matter.

Today we have celebrated Day of the Victory. 12 participants of travel on motobikes (a route Lhasa - Katmandu) have risen to us in the base camp. They arrived yesterday in Rongbuk, and today came to us to dinner. Dmitry Rysin and Igor Kulishov (heads of expedition) told us about their adventures on road from Lhasa. Some accidents have taken place, basically because of collision with animals. Anybody from bikers has not suffered seriously. They were forced to leave their motorcycles in Rongbuk - any type of transport, except for horses and special jeeps could go through the Chinese check-point .

A festive lunch was perfect, with toasts for the Victory, for Mountain, for "mad people" (i.e. people such as climbers and motorcyclists), all team was photographed at finish. Then guys have left to Rongbuk camp.

For the evening dinner we have called for Russell, Jamie, Ronnie Muhl - the member of our last year`s expedition from South Africa. Russell has brought a message that this day 17 Chinese have reached the Everest summit. Though the strong wind complicated an ascent. Ronnie, Jamie and Mr. Chvan (the owner of company " Аrun-trek ") came a bit later. There were again toasts for the Victory, songs about war and peace. And when it darkened, we have arranged fireworks in honour of a holiday.

May, 10 - day of rest and preparation. May, 11 all team goes upward. First in АВС, then - as soon as weather will allow - upward by two groups. Today after breakfast, doctor Sergey Larin has made medical survey of all participants who have come back from rest. All is normal, everyone can go on an ascent.

Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club of 2006 was led by Alexander Abramov. In General, the results of the 2005 expedition were rather positive. And this became a good basis for assembling a large expedition for the next year. A competitive price and a good level of service helped attract new customers from all over the world. Dutch Harry Kikstra (7summits.com), who realized his dream of reaching the summit in 2005, did not lose enthusiasm and joined several projects at once. All this made it possible to assemble a truly gigantic expedition: 28 members, six guides and a doctor who is going to climb. At the same time, foreigners made up the absolute majority - 23 people plus 4 as video crews.

Expedition guides:

 - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader, Everest Summiter, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

- Nikolay Cherny, Russia (guide, co-leader, Everest Summiter, 6 other 8-thousenders)

- Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, Everest summiter)

- Harry Kikstra, the Netherlands ( guide and co-leader, Everest summiter)

- Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiter)

- Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

- Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

- Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

- Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

- Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

List of expedition members:

Lande Vladimir Russia

Rozhkov Ilya Russia

Ryzhenko Arkadiy Russia

Plyushkin Igor Russia

Pushkarev Vladimir Russia

Lorenzo Gariano UK

Kirk Wheatley UK

David A. Lien USA

Ron Morrow USA

William Hazelton Tyler III USA

Slate Stern USA

Ronald Kevin Muhl South African

Noel Richmond Hanna UK

Petter Kragset Norway

Torbjørn Orkelbog Norway

Henrik Andre Olsen Denmark Johnny Brevik Norway

Thomas Weber (blind climber) Germany

Vince Bousselaire USA

Richard Harris Australian

Christopher Harris (son) Australian

Michael Charles Dillon Australian

Lincoln Ross Hall Australian

John Delaney Ireland

Frode Høgset Norway

Barbara Tyler USA

Patrick Hugh Flynn Ireland

Gariano Giuseppe Italian

20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

18th of May. Ludmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov from АВС, 6400м.

The main event of last days: Vladimir Lande successfully summited Everest - May, 15 at 9.00. He has spent, from 8300 up to the top, about 6 hours, very good time. Vladimir climbed together with Nima Sherpa, then they have successfully gone down. Yesterday (May, 17), Vladimir has left for Katmandu by an evening jeep. Two days before our senior guide Nikolay Cherny and climber Vladimir Pushkarev have left expedition through illness.

Yesterday May, 17, all first group has gathered in АВС. Abramov, Kofanov and Коrobeshko have decided, that they are the cleverest, and came in АВС not for 2 days, as all normal people, but for one. As a result, Kofanov is very tired, Ludmila is simply exhausted. Only for Alex Abramov it is good, he feels most better.

Yesterday at supper, we have together celebrated the national holiday of Norway - Day of Independence. After supper Alex Abramov has lead a briefing. He addressed to the group leaving upward, once again told about dangers of Everest. Except for that, all people checked and put on masks, reducers, oxygen cylinders. It was cheerful.

Now in the morning, we go for breakfast. After it the first group –

Ilya Rozhkov, Russia

Arkadiy Ryzhenko, Russia

Igor Plyushkin, Russia

Lorenzo Gariano, UK

Kirk Wheatley, UK

David A. Lien, USA

Slate Stern, USA

Ronald Kevin Muhl, South African

Noel Richmond Hanna, UK

Petter Kragset, Norway

Henrik Andre Olsen, Denmark

Johnny Brevik, Norway

with guides Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov leave on the North Cole. And further under the plan of an ascent. Weather forecast is quite favorable now, on the nearest days 5-6.

Today May, 21, at 8 a.m. Tibet time ( 4 a.m. on Moscow ) the first climbers from our expedition have reached the summit of Everest. There were a guide Sergey Kofanov (Russia), sirdar Mingma Gelu Sherpa (it is his 6 ascents), 3 more Sherpas. Slate Stern (USA), Henrik Olsen (Denmark), Arcady Ryzhenko (Russia) and 2 more Sherpas have summited after them a bit later.

At 10.00 Igor Svergun (a guide of expedition from Ukraine) has transferred by a portable radio set, that he is on the summit, together with Noel Hanna (Ireland), Kirk Weatley (England) and Lorenzo Gariano (UK - Italy) and 2 more Sherpas have joined them soon. In total we have 16 summiters today. Now all members and guides go down. The weather is rather good, but the wind is more strong as in the morning.

In АВС all did not sleep since seven mornings - we were on communication with climbers. A summit attempt began at midnight. Thus, the first climbers came on the top for 8 hours. Before breakfast all of us by turns looked in a telescope at a summit triangle where rather precisely we saw all ours climbers.

For breakfast Simone Moro has come to us on a visit. He has congratulated our team on success. Only yesterday he has made a traverse from the South through the summit of Everest and has gone down to the North. For now he has decided to live in our camp and gives interview about his feats with pleasure.

Norwegian Vikings Peter Kragset and Johni Brevik, and also David Lien yesterday have gone down in АВС from the height of 8000 m. On a portable radio set guides have informed also, that three more members who have left today on attempt - Igor Plushkin, Ilya Rozhkov and Ronni Muhl have reached the height about 8700 m.

Now the second group leaves upward from АВС. These are four Australians: Chris - 15-years climber, his father Richard, 2 more operators - Lincoln and Michael, and also Harry Kikstra and Тhomas Weber (blind climber), Alex Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. So, taking into account ascents of Vladimir Lande and Nima Sherpa, we have 18 persons have risen the summit of Everest on our expedition now.

From Harry’s blog: Sunday, May 21. 2006

SUMMIT!

we have been watching the team all morning, here is the first unofficial 7summits update. Mingma Gelu & Sergey K summited quite early as planned and waited for the rest of the clients. Apparently Slate Stern summited soon after and was going down quickly after, in good speed. Henrik Olsen also summited in good time and finished his 7 summits!

Ilya was having problems at the 3rd step and sat there for a long time, but our team is bringing him down now.

Noel summited about 25 minutes ago and is now going down and just a few minutes ago, at the end of our maximum time allowed, Lorenzo arrived at the summit, where our guide Igor Svergun was waiting for him, they will be coming down now and will be taking everybody they meet on the way. More Sherpas have summited as well, names to follow later.

Ronnie Muhl is now at the 2nd step, so we will have to take him down as he is going too slow to go for the summit safely, just as Igor Plushkin. At the moment we are not sure if Kirk summited or not, but so far everybody is safe and in good hands and we will make sure that all members and sherpas come down together. Maybe more later, we will be leaving with team B soon.

Alex Abramov report:

May, 21 the first group of climbers, 20 person (9 members, 2 guides and 9 high-altitude porters) makes an attempt to reach the summit of Everest. Climbers have left camp at height of 8300 meters in midnight. All group used artificial oxygen during the ascent. By 10 a.m. 16 persons have reached the top of Everest. The others 4 climbers have reached heights 8600 - 8700 meters, among them was Igor Plyushkin from Krasnodar. At 10:30 all team, all 20 persons started to descent to the camp 3. At 3 p.m. all team was already down in camp of 8300 meters. The weather was good. Sherpas have prepared tea and climbers had a rest for two hours. Then all team has gone down (still using oxygen) for spending night in the camp 2 at 7800 meters, on more safe altitude. So day May, 21 was finished.

May, 22 in the morning after breakfast at 12 a.m., the team was ready to start for descent from camp of 7800 meters downwards to the North Col (7000 meters). Igor Plyushkin has passed 15 meters from his tent and has felt badly. He has addressed to guides for help, complaining on lack of oxygen and difficulty at breath. Thus he moved with use of oxygen equipment. The increase of submission of oxygen from two to four litres in minute has not helped. Injections have not helped also, struggle for life proceeded one and a half hour. Unfortunately, Igor`s condition thus essentially was not improved. At 13:45 guides were forced to verify death. The body was solved to leave at height of 7800 meters. Guides have photographed it, have closed by sleeping bags and have covered by stones. At 7 p.m. all team was down in advanced base camp ABC, on height of 6400 meters.

Igor Plyushkin, 54 year, was a skilled climber, had climbed all 7000meters summits of the former USSR. (Snow leopard)

I also want to tell about events of May, 21-22 which occured not in area of summit and second camp. May, 21 the second group planned an exit for the North Col. There were 4 Australian climbers, and among them father and son, Richard and Christopher Harris. From the first steps from АВС the son, Chris now 15 years old, has felt badly. He had a collapse, that is sharp pressure drop, and all group has returned to camp. We have taken the appropriate measures: the guy has spent with a mask about one hour, his pressure was normalized. Later the Australian team made decision to try once again.

In the morning May, 22 after first 300 meters, Chris has felt very badly again. After that we have finally made decision to refuse an ascent. In camp ABC we have again carried out medical actions, Chris was filling better. Tomorrow they will go down in base camp. Also in this day when above guides struggled for Igor`s life, Sergey Chistiakov in camp ABC has felt badly. We also have connected the oxygen equipment. When he has felt better, he has on gone downwards, into middle camp. So May, 22 was for us a fatal day. At once several persons were ill. Now, we hope, that Sergey is already out of danger, as well as Chris. Everest expedition is very heavy business and an organism of many people simply does not maintain long loading. Now only Harry Kikstra, Тhomas Weber and strongest of Australians Lincoln Hall continue an ascent.

18:30 Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.

21 – 25th of May good weather kept on the Everest, the wind was very weak. May, 25 in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Тhomas Weber (Germany), guide Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has left camp of 8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen as about 20 superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and three Sherpas has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed about his success on a portable radio set.

At 9:15 Harry Kikstra has informed, that Томас Weber, a climber with weakened sight, has completely lost sight. For this reason, traverse on rocks to the top at height of 8800 meters he considered practically impossible. Having conferred, Тhomas, Harry and two Sherpas have begun descent at 9:30 a.m., only 50 meters from the summit on height. At 10:00 Lincoln Hall has reached on descent a snow triangle, at height of 8800 meters. And at this moment Sherpas have transferred, that Lincoln started to move downwards very bad, coordination was lost. At 10:30 Lincoln has lain on snow and could not go down independently any more. Sherpas have begun rescue works. To the aid we have sent two more Sherpas from camp ABC with oxygen. They should bring additional oxygen, drink etc ….

Unexpectedly at 12:20, Harry Kikstra has informed that he is with Тhomas and to two Sherpas at a level of the Second step, height of 8700 meters. And that Тhomas has a collapse, Томас has told only: « I have died » and have lost consciousness. At 12:40 the death was verified . Harry has sent one of Sherpas upward to the aid of transportation of Lincoln. Then he has gone downwards with the second Sherpas. From 9:30 till 19:20 , almost 9 hours, four шерпов tried to get Lincoln lower. A crest here is very complicated technically and in condition of Lincoln it was possible to lower him for 9 hours on 300-400 meters on a crest. Sherpas could lower him from the Second step on height of 8700 meters. During descent Lincoln two times talked on a portable radio set to friends. Conversations were addle, there was an obvious loss of orientation in time and space. After 5 p.m. Lincoln has ceased to reply. Movements have got chaotic character. Sherpas continued attempts to move Lincoln along a crest, but at 19:20 the death was verified. The probable reason: brain cerebral edema, pulmonary edema . Now 21:30, Sherpas have gone down from a crest in camp 8300м, they are outside of danger though have got awfully tired. Harry Kikstra is in camp on 7000 m on North Col.

Conclusions: in season of 2006 on Everest the record amount of climbers, under our information - 15 person was lost. Strangely enough, the reason of it became extremely good, windless weather. This unnatural weather for Everest proceeded from May, 10 till May, 25. This weather has allowed a plenty of climbers to reach the summit. In more severe conditions, they, probably, would stop climb at lower heights. The summit became a trap for climbers with the latent problems of health

News about Lincoln Hall.
May, 25 at 19:20 Sherpas have stopped the rescue operation proceeding more of 9 hours at height about 8700 meters. They have verified the fact of death of Lincoln Hall, on the basis of that from 17:00 till 19:20 he did not submit any attributes of life. Five Sherpas, completely exhausted, have gone down in darkness in camp 8300. 

In the morning May, 26 at 7 in the morning, Dan Mazur, which was climbing with group of clients, has informed, he is near Lincoln Hall. Lincoln was motionless, but submitted weak attributes of life. Immediately 13 Sherpas, spending night on North Col (7000 meters) were sent for realization of rescue operations on height of 8700 meters. The same task was put to five Sherpas which stay in camp 8300 . Unfortunately, two of them have lost sight yesterday and required help. Thus, approximately by 11 a.m. three Sherpas with tea, oxygen and medicines have reached Lincoln. After plentiful drink and reception of medicines, Lincoln started to talk, though speech of him was untied and he could not move independently . Not waiting arrival of the basic group, three Sherpas have started to move him on a crest. Now they could move him on 50 meters on a difficult rocky site. Now the second group of eight Sherpas with all necessary came for help. If weather will allow, rescue operations will proceed all night. Thank for the help and support to Dan Mazur, Russell Brice and Jamie MacGinnes.

At ten in the evening on local time Lincoln Hall and Sherpas accompanying him have gone down in camp on North Col (7000м). Yes! Lincoln Hall has passed without assistance the whole snow slope, from 7500 m! In camp on the Saddle doctor Andrey Selivanov met him and led to a dining tent, which is now as a field hospital. As he said, the first problems of Lincoln is an acute psychosis, a disorientation in space, also he shows resistance accompanying and now to the doctor. First of all it will be necessary to calm him. The reason – an acute edema of a brain and hypoxia. The doctor have examined his hands – frostbitten 2-3 degrees. Legs to the moment of communication were not examined yet. On a question on prospects Andrey has told: « We shall overcome ! ». Now Lincoln is in heat, in spacious tent with electric illumination, 10 person are engaged in his service. Descent in АВС is planned for tomorrow`s morning, but not early, when there will be a sun and will become warmer.

Under last message, for today (23:00 local time), Lincoln Hall has fallen asleep in warm tent in camp on North Col. Necessary and possible (in this place) medical aid was rendered to him.

News from 7Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alexander Abramov

May 27 at 12.30 Chinese time rescue team of 10 Sherpa and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov descended from the North Col. They delivered Lincoln Hall to ABC. Lincoln was able to walk on his own. During the whole previous night Lincoln was sleeping on oxygen on the North Col.

As soon as he arrived in ABC Lincoln was given new portion of medical care. Brain edaema is practically gone now. He regained adequate perception of reality. Lincoln made a telephone call to his wife Barbara. He told her that he has bad frostbites of his fingers. Barbara answered that she would love him all the same even if he would loose all his fingers. In two days Lincoln is planning to go down to BC and then depart for Katmandu and Australia.

Big thanks to Sherpas of 7 Summits Club and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov, who at risk for their own lives conducted unique rescue operation on Everest. During several last years there was no team able to descend an unmoving body from the altitude of 8800m

KATHMANDU, Nepal, May 29 (UPI) -- Lincoln Hall, the Australian climber who survived a night in the open near the summit of Mount Everest, left base camp Monday in the back of a jeep. He was expected to arrive in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, on Tuesday, and could return to Sydney in a few days after further medical treatment, the Daily Telegraph reported.

Hall collapsed last Thursday as he descended from the summit. His teammates decided he was beyond help, but a U.S. climber found him still alive the next day and his team sent a group up from the North Col to bring him down.

"He does realize he has been very, very lucky, surprisingly lucky," Jamie McGuiness, another climber, told The Daily Telegraph from Everest Base Camp. "He was very close to death, but he wasn`t actually dead and he came around."

Hall was suffering from pneumonia and frostbite and could lose some of his extremities to amputation.

On March 31, the famous Argentine actor and good mountaineer Facundo Arana celebrated his 48th birthday with his family, in self-isolation. And in early May, two parts of a film about his ascent of Mount Everest in 2016 were posted online. For the 7 Summits Club, that year it was our most filmed expedition. On its results the epochal film "THE HIGH-ALTITUDE GENE " was made by the RD Studio. There, the Argentine got a small role. And there are still pleasant memories of friendly communication in the base camp and during random meetings on the route...

Part 1.

Part 2.

 For Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) it is the fourth start on a legendry North Route. With every coming year the expedition service is getting higher. In BC and ABC this year there will be pitched large expedition tents with email and satellite phone facilities. Strong team of 11 high altitude Sherpas will establish 3 high camps on the route. Two Russian well-known mountaineers Nikolay Cherny and Ivan Dusharin will be acting as guides in this expedition.

Expedition list (24 members):

Abramov Alexander (Alex ) – leader

Cherni Nikolay (guide)

Dusharin Ivan (guide)

Selivanov Andrey (expedition doctor)

Expedition members from Russia:

Kaymachnikov Sergey

Iakovenko Alexandre

Skaller Grigory,

Ovasapyan Karo,

Lande Vladimir,

Semenov Sergey

Taidakov Yury,

Moskalev Dmitry

Expedition members from abroad:

Ulph Robert (UK )

Hanna Noel Richmond (UK)

Stark Lynne Patricia (UK)

Gariano Lorenzo (UK)

Christiana John Thomas (USA)

Wilde James (USA)

Schneider Nathaniel (USA)

Lihteneker Marko (Slovenia)

Mlinar Victor (Slovenia)

Pokhvalin Igor (Ukraine)

Tsokur Dmitry (Ukraine)

Kikstra Harry (Netherlands)

Part of the group will work on a shorter programme without summit attempt: their aim is North Col and possibly North Peak (Changse).

Every year the team of Sherpas is growing stronger. This year it consists solely of Everest summiters. Mingma Gelu Sherpa – one of the strongest Nepalese mountaineers – will act as a sirdar.

High Altitude Sherpas list:

1. Mingma Gelu Sherpa - Sirdar
2. Pasang Sherpa
3. Pempa Rinzin Sherpa
4. Nima Drojee Sherpa
5. Pasang Tenpa Sherpa
6. Tenpa Norbu Sherpa
7. Lhakpa Sherpa
8. Pemba Tensing Sherpa + 3 more

10.04.2005

Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu:

Hi, friends.

Our expedition reached Tibet and today April 10, moved from Zangmu to Nialam. On the whole everything is OK

An accident took place on the road between Katmandu and Kodari on the way to Tibet border. Because Maoists declared a strike till April 12, they are blocking the roads.

Because of this there was a special escort organized to secure the progress of the expedition to Tibet border.

The car with Alexander Abramov and Sergey Kaimachnikov lagged behind the rest of the group a bit and was assaulted by Maoists. Maoists were throwing hand-made bombs, one of which got inside the car and exploded. As a result Sergey has his left leg broken, Alexander got a bit shell-shocked. The military troops helped to organize immediate evacuation by helicopter to Katmandu. Sergey was brought to the hospital and operated. Now his condition is normal.

Alexander stayed in Katmandu to help Sergey. In a week Sergey is going to be sent to Moscow, and after this Alexander will catch up with his expedition. At present Nikolay Cherny is acting as the expedition leader. We are expressing our gratitude to Russian Embassy in Katmandu and personally to Russian Consul Vladimir Popov, Royal Mount Travel company and personally to Katya and Igor, who gave us helping hand in need, and to Asian Trekking and Dawa Sherpa.

May, 18

Alex Abramov by phone from the ABC camp.

In the morning.

Now all our team is in АВС. Except, Sasha Yakovenko and Nikolay Cherny that have gone down to displace the Middle Camp. Now we have left only one kitchen tent at height of 5800 m and two tents, in which two sleeping bags left. Igor Pohvalin has gone down to the base camp. It considers, that long time to be at height 6500м is harmful to an organism. He has decided to go down for 2-3 nights in base camp. With him, Ivan Dusharin went down, because his back was ill. All others were in camp ABC. Yesterday leaders of other expedition came in our camp. There were representatives of Norwegian expedition, two Indian expeditions, expedition “Monterosa” and for short time David Hamilton from Jagged Globe. All are worried about promised fix ropes that are not arranged yet. Under an agreement with Russell it should be fixed up to top of the Second step. Leaders of these expeditions have offered us to become the fourth expedition which will go in the forefront and will detach Sherpas for fixed ropes.

We have been trying to find Russell Brice which now is in Middle Camp. Also we have decided, that today a meeting at 4 will be held. We want to invite leaders of all expeditions. All are worried about the weather forecast. Forecasts are very different.

Later, after meeting.

Today morning Vladimir Lande has gone up the North Col and started an ascent. Later two Slovene climbers Marko and Victor also have decided to leave on an ascent. On the North Col also there are Andrey Selivanov and Grigory Skaller. But their plans is simply high-altitude acclimatization. Since morning the weather was not the best. But forecasts promise 4 days of quite good conditions. Tomorrow (May, 19) Dyma Moskalev, Sasha Yakovenko, Harry Kikstra and Lorenzo Gariano, also will go upward. Three other expeditions (Norwegian and two Indian) also plan a start of climb. Nevertheless, there are no fix-ropes up to the Second Step yet. Today the meeting which was initiated by those expeditions which want to leave earlier was held. Except for these expeditions, many participants from other expeditions want to begin climb in the near future. And some of them have already left on North Col.

At meeting we discussed a question of termination of an arranging of a route and some financial questions. In a result it was solved, that 4 expeditions which are going to leave today - tomorrow became responsible for final fixing of ropes. It was solved, that the money collected for this purpose will be given to Sherpas which will fix ropes. In result, tomorrow 4 Sherpas will leave on North Col and next day on 8300 m. They plan to fix ropes up to the top of the Second step. Also it is possible, that tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will climb to the North Col. The weather is quite unstable. " A Window" seems unstable, duration of it will take maximum 4 days. And that is not clear, this is “a window” or simply a small decrease of wind.

Today our Sherpas have done big work. Yesterday they have climbed on the Col, then after have spent a night, today they have climbed up to height of 8300 meters. They have brought in the storm camp 40 cylinders of oxygen, sleeping bags, tents. Today they have gone down, very much tired. Nevertheless, one of them has agreed to go with Vladimir Linde on an ascent. Tomorrow at 10 morning, Lande with his individual high-altitude porter will go to camp 2

Our Sherpas are great ! Thank them, thanks to the Sirdar Mingma !

May, 20

Today Slovenes Маrко and Viktor, Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa-partner have climbed in the camp of 8300 m. The weather was quite good and climbers plan tomorrow climb the summit. We carried on with them radio-talking. I have once again explained to them how correctly to distribute time of an ascent, depending on quantity of oxygen. Today Lorenzo Gariano and Harry Kikstra have gone down from North Col. Harry, unfortunately, became ill, there ia a high temperature, and he practically does not have voice. And tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will accompany him downwards, to the base camp. In the camp ABC, we have now quite strong wind, very coldly, clear weather. Our friends from camp 8300 speak that, there are no wind at all. But under the forecast, tomorrow there should be a wind up to 50 kms at one hour. We hope, that the ascent will pass successfully. And everyone can go down safely.

On May, 21

At 12:30 local time members of the international expedition 7 Summits Club Slovenes Маrko Lihteneker (45) and Viktor Mlinar (38) have successfully ascended to the top of Everest. They were the first this year ! Slovenes climbers successfully used a small window of weather. Now on Everest and in camp ABC the strong wind blows. Possibly, today this window will be closed, presumably till May, 27th. On our information, today about 15 climbers could reach the top. The majority left on an ascent have been forced to return.

May, 21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit. Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At 14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance to the summit climbers if needed."

May 21, 17:00: "Today at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good, Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."

May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp 3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The Sherpa can not go up."

May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from the South Side."

May 22, 14:00: "At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about 20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 Sherpas are now at the North Сol, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."

May 22, 17.00, Message from expedition: Victor Mliner & Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition Sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This body looks as Marko. Six Sherpas, which climbed together with the members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right hand.

Today, May, 26, the weather continues to remain bad, the wind at top reaches 30 meters per one second. The nearest three days weather forecasters promise sharp decrease of wind, up to 10 meters per one second. And using this chance, May, 27 the first our group will start and May, 28 the second group will start on climb. Nikolay Cherny leads the First group, in it 8 Members and 7 Sherpas, including Sirdar Mingma. Alexander Abramov heads the second group, in it - 7 Members and 5 Sherpas. Under the plan, three Sherpas from the first group should remain after an ascent in camp of 8300 meters. It will be made for secure of the second group.

Group 1: James Wilde, Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.

Group 2: Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert Ulf..

Vladimir Lande, who participated in events May, 21, is already in Moscow. All other Members are in preparation. About half of expeditions which are now in АВС, have the same plan, as our expedition. With an ascent 30 and May, 31. It is not so good. Experience of 2003 when in one day ascended 120 person, shows, that because of queue on the Second Step it is possible not have time to reach the top.

It is now hearing handbells. That Yaks approach for evacuation of one of expeditions. Expeditions have already started to go down from camp AВС. I think, that the nearest three days some more expeditions will be removed and will leave home.

Norwegian expedition, and also a part of expedition Monterosa climbed North Col today with the purpose of an ascent right at the beginning of good weather (May, 29) .

Long stay at height 6500м, certainly, provided a bad effect on conditions of members. Already the second week of expectation of weather practically comes to an end. It is certainly hard for an organism. I hope, that we could overcome physical strengths, and moral - strong-willed spirit help us to win. We could reach the summit and go down alive and healthy.

How many climbers are on northern side of the Everest ? Russell Brice has told, that he has collected on fixing ropes 17 thousand dollars. It means that 170 persons have handed over on 100 dollars. And approximately 150-170 climbing Sherpas are here. So it is possible to assume, that for 2 days on the slopes of Everest there will be from 200 up to 300 climbers. It will be a chaos on May, 30-31. Plus hundreds climbers from the South. These days on the highest point it will be no free places! The queue in area of the top can be formed simply to be photographed.

Today, May, 30, seven Members and six high-altitude porters (Sherpas) from the 7 Summits Club expedition successful climbed the summit of Mount Everest. The first, about 7 mornings, has risen Karo Ovasapian, in half an hour - Alexander Jakovenko, behind him - Nikolay Cherny. Then Igor Pohvalin from Crimea. Jury Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller have risen a bit later. Six Sherpas (Pasang Tenzing, Mingma Forche, Pemba Tensing Samte, Mingma Gelu, Pasang Temba Geldjin, Pemba Renjin) have reached the top with their members, led by Sirdar Mingma (for him it is 4th ascent).

We would like to note Nikolay Cherny success, first time trying to make an ascent during the first Soviet Everest expedition in 1982. We congratulate him!

We are proud to be his partners and we note, that the success was held in our expedition. Now on the high slopes of Everest the weather has deteriorated, but to this moment all participants of an ascent have gone down in camp at height of 8300 meters. The majority of them will spend the night there. Only Каrо together with his individual Sherpa has decided to go down in АВС. Tomorrow the second group will climb from 7700 m up to 8300 meters. As well as it was planned, in it there will be 12 persons.

May, 31

Alexander Abramov from the camp 3 at height of 8300 meters.

Now all have climbed in camp, except for Robert Ulph and his personal porter, that turned back. Now here are 10 persons: 6 Members and 4 Sherpas. In one tent Abramov and Moskalev, we sit, we breathe oxygen. In other tents: Lorenzo, Harry with individual guides, then John and Natan, also with the Sherpas. Weather does not please, strong wind … .Snow, a storm. Whether to leave, or to sit, or to go down.

The first group goes down very slowly. Only Yakovenko, and probably, doctor Igor Pohvalin had reached camp АВС. And other six person are still on mountain. Uncle Kolja on North Col. And Yura Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller, they will spend the night in camp on 7700 m. Каrо and James are already in the base camp.

June, 1.

Today there was awful night. We the big company, 10 persons, spent the night on 8300 m. The tent jumped and skipped under a pressure of a wind. I on a portable radio set transferred the information in other tents that we do not leave, neither at one o`clock, nor per three …..

Today, when we began to count oxygen, appeared, that for night we have spent 10 cylinders. Everyone were adjusted to go downwards as on everyone remained on 2 cylinders, that it is not enough. To give guys chance we have made the strong-willed decision. I, as already been at top, Nathan and his Sherpa go downwards. Yesterday Nathan has received small frost-bitten of fingers. As we have found out, this day there was only one climbing group, it seems, Brazilians. They have reached the Second step and were forced to come back. On 8300 m there was our good friend Lhapka Sherpa planning the fifth ascention. However she also has not left.

We started downwards, leaving necessary amount of oxygen to the four (Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Harry Kikstra and John Christiana). They are going to make an attempt tomorrow. I, Nathan and his Sherpa, have started to go downwards at 10 a.m..

Weather forecast for tomorrow: the same as for today. But now, to the evening, clouds have dispersed. We have agreed, that if the weather will be bad, guys go downwards since morning. Robert Ulf, which else hoped to join summiters, has turned downwards. Alexander Abramov, Nathaniel Schneider and his Sherpa stay in АВС now.

 Today, June, 2, at 8:45 local time, Dmitry Moskalev has informed, that he stands at the top of the world. Sherpa Mingma Norbu has climbed the summit of Everest with him. On a distance about one hour from it, Harry Kikstra from Holland, an American John Christiana and two Sherpas Renji and Laкcha. Lorenzo Gariano is also near to top. Such information - on 9 o`clock in the morning local time. The weather is clear, but a strong wind blows. Nevertheless, today many sportsmen from different expeditions have reached the top. We shall wait for descent of our comrades and on it to finish expedition.

Later: 17:30 local time.

Dmitry Moskalev has climbed the top at 8:30. On descent he has met John Christiana and his Sherpa Renji. They have risen on top about one o`clock in the afternoon. Later he has met Harry Kikstra and his Sherpa Lakcha, they also continued climb. Till now we have no information, whether Harry have reached the summit. There was no radio communication with them during whole day, though all members and Sherpas are supplied radio stations. At one o`clock Lorenzo Gariano came on communication. He has informed, that he is in camp of 7700 m. During an ascent, on the Second step, he (as he said) « has lost eyesight ». We do not know precisely, what it means. In any case, Lorenzo has managed independently gone down in camp 2 on 7700 meters. Probably, he has just frozen eyes, because of a strong wind. We have sent Sherpa Nima which has quickly climbed in camp of 7700 m. Now they begin descent downwards, they promise to go down up to camp ABC. Now Sherpa Mingma Norbu which we have left of 8300 m in camp to wait for the two climbers Harry and Lakcha, has informed, that sees them at height 8500м. Whether has had been Harry on top whether not, we do not know. We hope for the best, also we hope, that they will have time to go down in camp 3 up to darkness. Unfortunately, in camp 3 there is only one cylinder of oxygen. It will be heavy night for three persons. It will be their third night at this height.

June, 3

Small problems were with the phone, now all is normal. On 19 Chinese time a situation is following. Dmitry Moskalev has gone down in АВС, with Sherpa Mingma Norbu. John Christiana and Harry Kikstra are now on descent, approximately at 7500 meters. They continue to go downwards, with support of Renji and Lakcha. On the eve, Harry has reached the summit about 2 p.m.. Descent was very difficult: they have reached camp 3 only after 10 p.m., in darkness.

Dyma Moskalev now eats rice and is going to go down in base camp. For tomorrow`s morning, on 7, the jeep to Katmandu is ordered. Today in morning Lorenzo Gariano, Nathaniel Schneider and Robert Ulf have left from АВС to the base camp.

So it is possible to sum up, by results of expedition: 22 persons have climbed on top, from them 12 Members and 10 Sherpas. Unfortunately, one of climbers, Маrко Lihteneker, was lost on descent.

It was a Grand idea — Everest Peace Climb, by mountaineers of three great powers - the United States, the USSR and China. The idea, and the entire project, belonged to famous American climbers Jim Whittaker and Warren Thompson. During 1987-1988, the stubborn organizers tirelessly negotiated with Moscow and Beijing and achieved the almost impossible - in such a short time for our countries (in just 2 years!) they managed to get the consent and all the necessary permits and visas of the three parties to conduct a joint expedition. In the States, they were supported by such world-famous people as Senator Edward Kennedy, Ted Turner and many others. The organizing Committee under the leadership of Jim managed to attract more than 60 sponsors and take almost all the expenses of the expedition on themselves, and they amounted to more than one million dollars. (From Mstislav Gorbenko's book)

The film about the joint expedition of three countries (USA, USSR and China) on Everest in 1990 begins in a surprisingly beautiful way. It is called Three Flags over Everest. Author: Laszlo Pal. The text is read by Robert Redford. And, it seems that Paul McCartney specifically wrote the song (although this is not true). What a time it was, what hopes!

The " Everest Peace Climb " was timed to coincide with two events in 1990: the Goodwill Games in Seattle and the 20th anniversary of Earth Day. The highest peak of the world as a sporting object was to draw the world's attention on global environmental problems and to demonstrate to the world that the mutual trust and cooperation between Nations can "take" any height, and not in the mountaineering sense of the word. (From Mstislav Gorbenko's book)

Mstislav Gorbenko us asked to post information about a possible anniversary meeting of the heroes of the historical expedition:

In 1990, in May 7, 8 and 10, a unique ascent  on Mount Everest from the North along the North-East ridge was made. 20 members of the Everest Peace Climb international expedition, climbers from three countries-the USA, the USSR and China reached the summit.

I was lucky to represent Ukraine in this expedition. On May 8, I spent more than one hour alone on top of the world. In those ancient times, there were absolutely adequate climbing rules – 1 route – 1 expedition, i.e. only our expedition worked on the route. Each member had the opportunity to work first, participate in the drop-offs and reach the top. We worked, as always, independently without Sherpas, without the use of oxygen (up to 8,300 m) and even cleared the mountain of debris.

Details of this expedition can be found on the Internet in my first book, the Ascent Of Peace on Everest.

Today I remembered this most interesting and important event in mountaineering for me because many climbers of this expedition  wanted to gather to celebrate the 30th anniversary at a meeting in Ljubljana, new home of my team-mate Andrey Tselishchev. The world quarantine confused all our plans, but I suggested to my friends Vladimir Shataev, Eric Ilinsky, Sasha Tokarev, Andrey Tselishchev, Viktor Volodin, Laverne Woods, Ed Visturs, and Ian Wade not to worry and to postpone this meeting, as well as the Olympics, to 2021!

Each of us, of course, had much more difficult climbs.  But our joint training in the mountains at numerous training camps in different mountain areas of the World and two months under Everest made us great Friends.

Unfortunately, we will not have with us climbers on Everest Grigory Lunyakov, Sergey Arsentiev, Katia Ivanova, Anatoly Moshnikov, who died in the mountains. Dr. Edik Lipen is not with us either…

I received a letter from the leader of our expedition, the first American climber on Everest, Jim Whittaker, as always with humor : "thank You for inviting me to the meeting – this is a good idea, but I am almost a hundred years old (91), and I can only be with you in my thoughts and at a distance."

I hope that in these may days, Chinese climbers will reach the top of Mount Everest on the route of pioneers from the North after 60 years. We wish them good luck! It is possible that our Tibetan climbers on mount Everest in 1990 will participate there, but I have lost contact with them.

See you in 2021!

The premiere of the film was supposed to take place in Moscow cinemas in April. Today's situation has changed all plans, the screening was held in an online format on April 20 at 13:00 Moscow time.

The expedition to Nanga Parbat took place in the summer of 2019 and became the third stage of the project “Freeride in the death zone”. At this stage, the first Italian Snow Leopard Carlalberto Chimenti joined the Russian deuce. The team climbed the Diamir Wall on July 3, 2019. Skiing down from 8080 m. Based on the results of the expedition, the feature film "Death Zone of Nanga Parbat" was shot. For the first time, the team used quadrocopters for filming. The drone was shot above 8000 meters. The film has already become a winner and entered the short lists of several foreign and Russian film festivals. The film is presented at the 23rd Moscow International Film Festival of Mountain and Adventure Films “Vertical”.

Our friend, the guide of Central Asian programs of the 7 Summits Club, Andrei Erokhin, provided us with this video for publication. We have the right to be proud of the achievement of a new generation of our climbers. Just deciding on a winter climb on Peak Communism is already a lot.

But the team chose a new, unexpected and beautiful line to climb the plateau. And achieved success worthy of previous generations of our climbers. Well-coordinated teamwork, interaction, endurance and composure are the components of success. New heights to you guys!

The peak of Communism (7495 meters) is the highest peak in the territory of the former USSR, located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs. The summit was discovered in 1928, during the Soviet-German scientific expedition. and until 1962 it bore the name "Stalin's Peak." The first ascent was made by Evgeny Abalakov in 1933. In 1962, the peak was renamed on“Peak  Communism”. After Tajikistan gained independence in 1999, a new name “Ismail Somoni Peak” appeared in honor of the founder of the first (in the 10th century) Tajik state. In February 1986, the first winter ascent was made to the peak: 24 climbers (17 from the USSR national team and 7 from the Uzbek national team) climbed the summit in conditions of severe frost.

This year will be a record for virtual ascents to Mount Everest. Alas, the Big Mountain is closed to us. It’s good that there is no quarantine on the Internet. Here is an opportunity to return to the spring of 2019. Return and relive the excitement, tension and delight of the decisive days of the assault on Everest. The amazing girl Dolores Al Shellah was part of another expedition, but to a large extent joined the team of the 7 Summits  Club.

 In general, we are not strangers to her. Firstly, she is Serbian by mother. Secondly, in 2018, she ascended Mount Elbrus as part of the 7 Summit Club group.

 Dolores was always close to the members and guides of our expedition during the expedition on Everest. This can be seen in the frames of a highly professional film prepared by National Geographic Abu Dhabi. Actually the reason for this publication was the release of this film:

And a few more words about Dolores

This is she with dad and mom. Dad is a citizen of Jordan, mom is from Serbia.

Dolores grew up and was brought up in two cultures at once. The main place of residence is Amman, the capital of Jordan. Dolores spent all the summer months with her grandmother in Serbia. While studying for a year, she traveled to the United States. Dolores graduated from Petra University in Jordan with a degree in business administration. From childhood, she was a versatile athlete: athletics, swimming, equestrian sport. Then – rock climbing, mountaineering and traveling. After working a little in business, Dolores decided to become an adventure professional. And while she succeeds. In 2018, she signed a contract with the mighty Sustainable City organizations from Dubai and received the status of Ambassador Brand. That's where the money comes from for expeditions and trips. We hope that everything in the world will return to normal and we will meet with that charming girl more than once. In Antarctica, at the North Pole, near Aconcagua, Carstensz or elsewhere.

  We had to cancel our Everest and Lhotse expeditions due to the fact that Nepal officially closed the climbing season in the spring of 2020. But there is an alternative - you can make a virtual climb on Everest.   https://yandex.ru/everest/  Photos were  made during our expeditions on Everest in the spring of 2016.

Malaysian Tillai Muthu Nagarajan found his recipe for happiness. At the age of 50, he decided to leave the office and begin to lead a sporting lifestyle. Running, swimming, kayaking,  climbing mountains. The Seven Summits program became his motivation, became his goal for the coming years. Now Rajan has climbed six of the seven highest peaks from the program. He climbed two of them with the 7 Summit Club groups. This is Denali and Vinson. Ahead is Everest, which the Malaysian will also climb with our team under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. Read article

He left a successful career to scale mountains and

he's never been happier

The7 Summits Club continues to collaborate with RD Studio. A new film will be shot on the Southern slopes of the Greatest Mountain. The Everest expedition from the Nepalese side will be led personally by Alex Abramov. Along the Hillary-Tenzing route, he will try to set a world record, climb 8848 meters without supplement oxygen at the age of 56!

The climb will be carried out in cooperation with a team whose goal will be to climb the neighboring eight-thousander Lhotse. There is time to join any of the expeditions. Although the deadlines are already running out ...

The decision was made at a business breakfast