Asia - Page 68

A group of the 7 Summits Club with a guide Ivan Dusharin successfully climbed to the top of Mount Ararat. On the day of the ascent, the weather deteriorated, but all members showed the will and reached the top.

 On the same day all people went down to the city of Dogubayazit, where at the Banquet table celebrateв the successful ascent!

Congratulations! Next in the program they will have a tour of local attractions: the Palace of Isak Pasha, the Ark Museum, Lake Van and Akhtamar Island…

Day 9. September 11th. Today in the base camp of  Manaslu  there was a day of amazing meetings.

In the morning Israfil, the most famous Azerbaijani climber, came to visit us. We reminisce our joint expedition to the North Pole, on Denali, Everest. Then came Don Wargowsky, with whom we were together on Denali (now he leads the expedition the Summit Climb). Then we met Arnold Costner, who was a frequent visitor to our EVEREST BC from the North.

 But the main meeting, of course,  was with the hero of this year - Nims (Nirmal Purja), who completes his INCREDIBLE project of 14 eight-thousanders in 7 months. He has 3 peaks left - Manaslu, Cho-Oyu and Shishapangma. And the biggest problem now is Shisha, as Chinese authorities have closed the mountain for climbing this season. Nims hopes for a positive solution to the issue with the Chinese authorities. If not, for Cho-Oyu he is ready to go from Nepal on a more difficult route. But how to deal with Shisha?

 Nims told so many interesting things about himself and his project. For an hour we sat with Israfil in his tent and listened with open mouths. As a result, we invited him to Moscow and Baku. And Nims even agreed....

 And then he came to visit our camp of the 7 Summits Club, where he again told a lot of interesting things and took pictures with the whole group. He also invited us to visit his camp for Puja.

Manaslu. Days 7-8. September 9-10. The first acclimatization rotation outing at 5700 (to camp 1).

The morning of 9 September began with the Puja - blessing of the camp. At 6 a.m. Lama came from a neighboring expedition and began to read prayers. Our Sherpas built a stupa for the Puja. By 8 a.m. all members of the expedition gathered near the stupa. They brought equipment for the consecration and donations.

We lit a fire, the smoke went towards the mountain, which is considered a good sign. Drank the sacred drink and at the end of the ceremony castув tsamps toward the stupa.

About 10 am we left the Base camp. To 12 hours we reached the Crampons Point. Then we put on our crampons and went out on the glacier. There are many crevasses, but all are well marked. Bridges are reliable. The last 200 meters we were given a little hard: three consecutive steps. By the way, this year we put the first camp 150 meters higher than usual. But this place is more beautiful  and secure. And part of the route to the second camp is clearly visible - a somewhat frightening icefall with some overhanging.

 We went from basу camp to first in 6 hours. The vertical drop is about 1000 m. in the evening we measured oxygen (from 65 to 85) - on average, normal. We ate soup with chicken and rice. The first camp we have quite comfortable - there is a dining tent, sleep two in sleeping tents, and even with mattresses. And we allocated to the doctor a separate tent - for his kilograms of medicines. He had already "saved" two members - bandaged sprained wrist and plastered cracked nail.

We didn't sleep so badly. Although almost all had pain in the head, was saved by diacarb and analgesic (with Pentalgin). There were avalanches in the night, but we were almost used to this sound.

In the morning after breakfast we worked with avalanche sensors. Members quickly found everything that Dr. Larin had hidden. And then we all ran down the valley together. We reached the base camp in less than two hours - we really wanted to go to the bath.

Now we wash, rest, gain strength before the second more difficult rotation.

Greetings from the slopes of Mount Kazbek, from a group with an original name "Gastronomic ecstasy"! What other name could come to mind after the torture of delicious Georgian cuisine. Everyone noticed the signs of lack of appetite after the 5th and one 4th meals.

 From food we are distracted the need somewhere to go or walk. As a rule, from table to table, for a new gastronomic ecstasy. Or rent for equipment, or up to the shelter,  then we have a plan to go higher.

The mountain is difficult to discuss, they did not show due to the thick fogginess and cloudiness. Unlike food.

Day plan trips was done, we reached the refuge at 3000+. Left to eat again.

And legalize the new name of the group - "Rosary" – see our girls below…

Lyudmila Korobeshko a guide of the expedition:

Day 5. September 7. Manaslu expedition 7 summits Club.

Today we had a day of rest. We spent it at a new altitude - at the Manaslu Base camp at 4700. The bravest part of the expedition - womens - staged bath day. The sun came out before lunch for a moment. And we had time to admire the slopes of Manaslu. But after 12 it started raining, which did not stop until evening. All day long there were avalanches converging to the left and right of our camp.

Tomorrow we are planning an ice training sessions. Day after tomorrow – rotation  in Camp 1 on 5700.

So far, all members feel good.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

 On 4 September the expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu arrived in the village of Samagaon and started to acclimatization. The flight from Kathmandu to Samagaon was not easy. The pilots bravely found their way through the fog and low clouds.

After lunch, the team went for a walk to lake Birendra, where the Manaslu glaciers flow. Beautiful place. On the way we visited a Buddhist monastery, where we asked a local monk to play us on a shell, which he did with pleasure.

At the lake we took some pictures with the symbolism of the 7 Summits Club on the background of waterfalls.

Guides: Sergey Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko:

 September 5. This morning we woke up in Samagaon to the shouts of the muleteers. About 100 drivers and mules came to the yard of our loggia. It is a neighboring expedition started supply base camps…

After breakfast we came to the acclimatization rotation to the monastery in the neighboring side gorge. We gained about 500 m on the most beautiful deserted gorge. By 4 PM we went down to the loggia, cooking potatoes, dreaming of…

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and guide of the expedition, from Kathmandu:

Hello from Kathmandu!  All day today the members of our expedition arrived in Kathmandu. At last we are all assembled. Tomorrow the team flies to Samagaon, on the 3800. There will stay for 3 nights with radial outing in the next valley and then move towards the base camp Manaslu.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Hello from Kathmandu!  From guides of the Manaslu expedition - Sergey Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko. Yesterday we arrived in the capital of Nepal. We met with the Director of our office in Kathmandu Mingma and the staff. Today we have already received a permit. So our expedition is officially approved. Tomorrow 6 climbers  arrive.   And 4th of September, we hope to fly to Samagaon at 3800, where we begin to start our acclimatization. Wish us luck!

The premiere of the fourth series of the film "The Man who always wanted more" was held today on YouTube channel RD Studio.   This is the story of climbing Mount Everest  by Vasily Shakhnovsky as part of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov.

 RD Studio: Hundreds of hours of grueling training, thousands of meters of climbing up, 3 very difficult peaks behind, and all this in order to make your name in the book of stories of climbing the highest mountain in the World. Vasily Shakhnovsky was 60 years old. And he's going to Everest!

The 7 Summits Club is a growing and creative company. We are always open to new ideas and always ready to open new projects. Today we are announcing our project of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders. Our groups will try to deploy the club's flags on all the highest mountains of the world. In the near future we plan expeditions to Manaslu, Everest from the South and North, Lhotse, Makalu, in the summer of 2020 to Gasherbrum-2 and even K2.

Plans of climbing the eight-thousanders by expeditions the 7 summits Club. 2019 -2020

September 2019

 Manaslu (8156), Nepal. The tour-leaders Sergei Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April – May 2020

Lhotse (8516m) + Everest (8848m) from the South - leader Vladimir Kotlyar.

Makalu (8462m, Nepal) – leader Artem Rostovtsev.

Everest (8848m, Tibet) from the North - leader Alexander Abramov.

July 2020

Gasherbrum II (8035m, Pakistan)

K2 (8611m, Pakistan)

September 2020

Cho-Oyu – leader Sergey Larin.

Our expeditions are served by our well-trained team of Sherpas, proven high-altitude guides and well-trained in the provision of camping services. With the ideal organization of expeditions, members have a great chance to achieve success, to reach the summit. Climb all 14 eight-thousand - no longer a fantastic dream, but it can be quite a real goal.

Up-to-date information from the main news agencies: the Nepalese authorities are considering options for tightening requirements for climbers on Everest. Including the planned threefold increase in the cost of permits. But until that happens we offer the best price in the area.   44900 dollars, that is, about two times lower than usual! This expedition to Everest from the South will take place in the spring of 2020. The expedition will be led by Vladimir Kotlyar, who has twice climbed to the summit and has extensive experience as a guide in expeditions.

The route is a legend, it is very different from the ascent from the North. Starting from the approaches by the Khumbu valley, then following through the legendary icefall (for several years without accidents, you only need to carefully choosing  a route), through the South Col, South Summit and Hillary Step. By the way, at the top there is a chance to meet the climbers of the 7 Summits Club, which will climb from the North.

And as an added plus, we offer a bonus (free) climb to thesummit of Lhotse, the fourth highest peak in the world. Additional payment for the permit will not be necessary.  Recently, such double ascents in one exit above the Khumbu icefall have become not uncommon. So go ahead!

News from Max Shakirov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club. Today the group called "2+7" reached the top of Mount Ararat (5137m). All members but one who reached a height of 4800m. Congratulations!

 Guide the 7 Summits Club Maxim Shakirov: Our team is called"2+7". On August 16, we saw our goal - Mount Ararat. The walk from 2200 meters to the first camp (3 250m) took us exactly 5 hours.

The health of the members was normal…

 The name of the team was confirmed today, August 17: Two members did not come out today for acclimatization due to poor health. The remaining 7 people climbed to a height of 3900 meters and returned to 1 camp at 3200.

On the way we met a group from Serbia, with which the famous fighter-boxer Fedor Emelyanenko goes to Ararat. A barefoot colorful character in the photo – that is a priest from Serbia.

Fedor is second from the right

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Ermakov:

Today at 6: 30 in the morning, the whole group stood on the top of Ararat. The weather is wonderful, everything is fine. Now we have already gone down to camp 4100. Here we rest a little and go lower. Today we want to go down to the city and spend the night in a hotel. In general, all is well, all members are healthy and feel well.

RD Studio presented yesterday the second part of the documentary from 4 parts "The Man who always wanted more".

 This is the story of a man who on the eve of his 60th birthday decided to climb Everest. But before climbing the highest mountain of the planet, he will climb three peaks in different parts of the world: Kazbek, Manaslu and Ohos del Salado. 

1 hero.

4 mountains.

4 films.

Film 2. "A man who has always wanted more. Manaslu"

Vasily Shakhnovsky was able to climb Kazbek. There will be a jump to 3 kilometers up. Mount Manaslu - the eight-thousand meter peaks of Nepal, one of the 14 eight-thousanders of the world. Unusually beautiful and avalanche dangerous.  The way to the top is blocked by numerous cracks and snow cornices. But the main danger is height. Never before Vasily was not above 8000.

Part 1. Kazbek

Other films RD Studio

7 Summits, hello! This is a guide Dmitry Ermakov from the slopes of Ararat. Today we started from our hotel and saw Mount Ararat for the first time! We reached the end of the road and walked towards our first camp. The road was pleasant and not tense. Warm and good!  After 4 hours peaceful road we reached camp 3350 м. Here even we were met by watermelons and grapes. Not a hike, but pure joy! And dinner is waiting ahead! Tomorrow we go higher!

The first of the four parts of the film "The Man who always wanted more" is available on YouTube channel RD Studio.   Vasily Shakhnovsky climbs Mount Kazbek together with friends and guides of the 7 Summits Club:

The premiere of the second part will be held on Sunday, August 11 at 16-00. This time the expedition set out to conquer Mount Manaslu, one of the most beautiful and dangerous mountains of Nepal.

Aloha, friends and family! Here is a group of the 7 Summits Club, going to Khan Tengri under the leadership of Vladimir Kotlyar. We're OK! Today we held ice classes, remembered the technique of movement on the ice in crampons and with ice axes, worked out the movement on glaciers and work with jumars on fixed ropes. Tomorrow we go to the big mountains for acclimatization. There will be no Internet, so only satellite communication.