Asia - Page 69

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Aloha, friends! A team of climbers to the Peak of Lenin named "Zaalaysky literary-musical club, named after Lenin" completed their expedition! The 25th of July, we successfully summited, descended safely, alive and healthy! The mountain continues to please with great weather and views! We leave the base camp and return to our native land! Goodbye majestic Peak, goodbye mighty glaciers, goodbye transparent frosty sky and burning mountain sun!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Hello 7 Summits! We reached the summit of Lenin Peak! But it is early to congratulate us, for now we are on descent from the summit to camp 3.

Hi, the 7 Summits Club! The team "Zaalaysky literary and musical club named after Lenin" returned for the rest to the First camp (4200). We spent two nights at an altitude of 5200, with acclimatization rotation at 6100. Two members, unfortunately, decided to leave us, for health reasons. The rest of the team is in combat readiness, with well acclimatization. We have to wait for the best fine day to try to climb the summit.

Aloha, friends! Today the group "Zaalay literary music club named after Lenin" made the first acclimatization rotation to a height of 4200. The day gave us great weather and stunning views of the surrounding magical landscape! Our eyes absorbed the beauty, causing the heart to beat faster. After acclimatization walk, the team of guides took up a new sport for them - SUP surfing on the Alpine lake.

Greeting  from the group, climbing  Lenin Peak! Day one: we arrived in the city of Osh, which met us with a warm embrace. We checked our equipment and went for a walk to the Suleiman Mountain. After a walk we went to the restaurant "Raisins" - our cult place. There we celebrated the beginning of our expedition and two birthdays of Sergey Motorkin and Vladimir Kotlyar. The group has already proved to be a close-knit, friendly and cheerful team, and everything is just beginning ...

Artem Rostovtsev, the 7 Summits Club guide:  Georgia. Kazbek. Meteorological station. 3600m. We have a plan and we stick to it. And the weather adapts to us. Today we moved from the refuge Altihut3014 to the Kazbek meteo-station. It was not enough. And after lunch we went up another 300 meters to the chapel. The extra walk was only a pleasure. Tomorrow we will walk to the glaciers, work out, deal with the equipment, so that no technical issues remain. And the next day, when we plan to reach the top, everything will pass smoothly.

A new group starting to climb Mount Kazbek under leadership of Artem Rostovtsev. Team alreary reached a new refuge Altihut3014. Everything is OK, the refuge is excellent and almost empty.

Salom az Tehran!

On June 15, at 11.30, “Teheran-19” team stood at the top of Demavand. We got it  in exactly 7 hours, as planned. Weather us favored,  this was the best morning over the past 3-4 days. In the upper third, we froze a little from the strong wind, but got the stored down jackets, and the problem was solved. Cloud whirl near the top turned out to be emissions of sulfur dioxide, it makes an impression! ... Well, that West wind will carry the greater part of the accumulations to the side…

 And the top!...

We chose the option to go down by  snowy slopes, using stashed crampons. It's faster and safer!

On the same day we ran to the bottom, to the mosque, and from there - to Polur at 2200 m. It was hard, but we really wanted to be down.

We spent a night in Polur, and in the morning we received traditional congratulations and certificates from the Federation of mountaineering of Iran.

And famous photos of red poppies!

Salom az Damavand! Yesterday, a group of "Tehran -19 "at 11.30 am local time climbed to the top of Mont Demavend! We're happy! Details - upon our return to Tehran.

Mahior - a local guide 

Anna

Denis

Martin

Valery

Guide Valery Myasoedov from Iran.

Today, on June 11, “Tehran-19” group climbed Tochal peak with a height of 4000 m within the framework of the acclimatization program for Demavend.

The day before we went up to the shelter along a picturesque path along the Darband river. The rise was simple, three hours do not even have time to enjoy the views.

And the most important view was waiting upstairs, on the terrace of the shelter, from where, from a height of 2800 m, you can see the whole huge 13 million Tehran, playing with all the lights in the dark.

Our guide Mahior never ceases to surprise us with his care. Everything here is worked out to the last detail, not a minute of delay, cook delicious, constantly join the exquisite Iranian cuisine.

In the morning we went to the top of Tochal, on the road talking with many Iranian tourists, for whom climbing Tochal is  an usual walk.  We climbed at a good pace for 4.5 hours, which shows the serious attitude of the group for climbing Demavend.

Our Russian flag was popular. Friendly Iranians lined up to take pictures with our flag.

In the evening we were invited to dinner by our guide. And ended the evening with a brief visit to the mosque.

Thank you Mahior and Negin for a wonderful evening! Tomorrow begins the most important part of the program, we move to the town of Polur near Demavend and begin preparations for the ascent.

Video from Everest by Alex Abramov

Members of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club  relax in a luxury hotel in Lhasa. Tomorrow morning, at 9-20 they are waiting for a plane to Chengdu and then home. 

Goodbye Tibet, goodbye Everest!

 Only after descent and a short rest the heroes of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club were able to share photos taken on the mountain.

Our leader, captain and head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov est successfully coped with all the tasks. He climbed to the highest peak of the world for the 10th time! A few climbers in the world can boast of such an achievement. This is a record for Russia, the CIS and all of continental Europe. Only a couple of English guides and couple of their colleges from USA  have more  Everest summits. We do not take Sherpas into account, they have their own statistics.

How Everest is given – just look at this photo…

Alexander Abramov continues his epic program "Seven peaks in seven months". Ahead -  Elbrus and Denali!

Chronicle

24-05-2004. Alexander Abramov (1-e summit)

20-05-2007. Alexander Abramov (2nd summit) 

20-05-2009. Alexander Abramov, from the South (3rd summit) 

19-05-2012. Alexander Abramov (4th summit) 

19-05-2013. Alexander Abramov (5th summit)

26-05-2014. Abramov Alexander (6th summit)

20-05-2016. Alexander Abramov (7th summit)

22-05-2017. Alexander Abramov (8th summit)

17-05-2018. Alexander Abramov (9th summit)

23-05-2019. Alexander Abramov (10th summit).

In total, 11 members of the 7 Summits Club team and two guides Alexander Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev reached the top of Mount Everest. With them, the highest point was reached by 15 Sherpas as high-altitude porters and guides.  So we have 28 PAX  made the ascent.

 May 23 at the top of Everest stood:

Alexander Abramov (for the 10th time),

Irina Zisman,

Dmitry Ghinkulov,

Arno Ter-Saakov (Latvia),

Andrew Polyakov,

Ivan Pominov, 

Bartolomiej Paczoski (Poland).

May 24 at the top of Everest stood:

Artem Rostovtsev,

Igor Smirnov,

Ludmila Tolstokorova,

Vadim Vokryachko (Azerbaijan) ,

Mircea Baciu (Moldova),

Eugene Staroselsky (Cyprus).

According to the information received: The first group of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alex Abramov in the morning continued the descent and is now approaching the North Col. Artem Rostovtsev's group (second) successfully reached the top of Everest and started the descent.

According to the information available to date, the group took the route around 1 am. About 7-8 am in Nepal time they were halfway (passed the Second step). Go slowly. Hard traffic. Strong wind.  At 10:30 the whole group stood at the top. Now the team is on the descent.

 Heroes of the day: Alexander Abramov, Irina Zisman, Dima Ghinkulov, Arno Ter-Saakov, Andrey Polyakov, Ivan Pominov, Bartholomey Paczoski. And our Sherpa friends.

A group of Tibetan climbers who hang and fix ropes now is  on the snow triangle. It's 8700M. So they have to finish line to the top by afternoon and reach  the summit!

Today we continue our ascent to 8300 m. And in the evening, almost at night, probably at 9 PM we will go to the summit bid.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from Everest.  Now the first team is staying for the night at 7700. All members came to the camp for 4.5-5 hours.  Everything is OK..  But here is too many people. At least 150 people are going to the summit at the same time…

Our second team  with Artem Rostovtsev climbed to the North Col…

 Wind is strong. We're coming to 8300 tomorrow. But there are still no fixed ropes to the top .

Alexander Abramov from Everest. The height of 7000 meters. North col. Today we climbed  from ABC, for 3-4 hours.  We used oxygen, now the team sleeps in tents. Tomorrow's - 7700. And through day – 8300 and immediately  the summit bid, start at night. The whole team feels great. The weather forecast for the 23rd and 24th is good.  I hope we will succeed.