Asia - Page 74

Vladimir Kotlyar,  guide of the 7 Summits Club from the Pamir:

Hello,  friends! Group of the 7 Summits Club under the name of "Colonizers" successfully climbed Lenin peak. Guides - Vladimir Kotlyar and Valery Myasoedov.  We caught a weather window and hit the target. And now we are rushing down to fresh lamb meat, shower and a plane HOME!

Valdis Pelsh's crew joined the Russian climbers' expedition to Everest, in order to climb the highest mountain in the world. The first expedition was interrupted by a series of earthquakes. In 2016 the group returned to the foot of Everest to tell the story of the conquests and to show the whole process of climbing the main peak on planet Earth. GENRE: documentary with elements of reality show DIRECTOR: Kristina Kozlova HOST: Valdis Pelsh Year of release: 2017

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club: We send congratulations  on the international day of mountaineering from the group of Myasoedov and Kotlyar!!! We went down to rest from a height of 6100 to camp 1! The mood is cheerful, we will delay the rest for a couple of days, we will catch a weather window and good luck by the tail…

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Lenin Peak:

 Hello, friends! The team of guides Valery Myasoedov and Vladimir Kotlyar "Jolly Roger" began its active acclimatization. Today we went to a small nameless summit with a height of 4100. We enjoyed the beautiful views and lunch brought with us from Osh…

Long  bad weather did not allow the team of the 7 Summits Club reach the top of the Pamir seventhousander Lenin Peak. But members  got an experience of going into space. These were impressions of the days spent in the assault camp. High mountain showed its brutal power, but it remains the same attractive…

Alexander Tishkov, the 7 Summits Club guide, expedition leader:

Hi!  The day before yesterday we passed the pass Gondogoro-La, 5700 meters high. The pass is difficult. The approach from the Ali camp to the foot took 3 hours.  The weather was not very good - there was light snow. 

By the time we reached the saddle, it was about 5 am. The descent was also steep. We went down on fixed ropes.

We spent the night in the camp Khuspang at an altitude of 4600 meters.

The next day we passed one of the most beautiful passages to the village of Saicho. And today we are in Skardu.

Alexander Tishkov, the 7 Summits Club guide, expedition leader:

The weather was good yesterday.  We were in the base camp K2 - visited the climbers memorial. We talked with the participants of the Japanese expedition, where 8 people reached the top of K2.  And as well we talked with members of the Ukrainian expedition to Gasherbrum. Then the weather got worse. Our group is now in the Concordia camp.  Everyone feels good, everyone is waiting for good weather to take more pictures.

The group the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Olga Rumyantseva and Vladimir Kotlyar resting in camp 1 (4100) before attempting to climb Lenin Peak. And we can admire a variety of photos sent from the Pamirs…

On the eve the group completed acclimatization rotation, spending a night in camp 3 at an altitude of 6100. 10 group members and two guides are now ready to storm the summit.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Kyrgyzstan:

Salute, friends! Our group cheerfully climbed to the first camp to a height of 4400. Stunningly beautiful trek, great weather and the crossing on horseback across the river made for us a gorgeous day…

Photos of Ziabutin Gadjimirzaev

Alexander Tishkov, the 7 Summits Club guide, expedition leader:

Hello, friends! The team of theS7 summits Club came to Islamabad. The capital of Pakistan met us with heat and humidity. Today we met with our accompanying staff and saw simple local attractions. Tomorrow at 3 am we start moving towards the mountains, towards K2…

 I must say that the locals were not very indifferent to the people of Europe - every second wanted a joint photo…

Olga Rumyantseva, the 7 Summits Club guide: we start the season at Lenin peak. Today Vladimir Kotlyar and I fly to Osh. And the next day we meet our first very large group. In total there will be 14 people.

 However, two members of this group, Maxim and Lena decided to fly in advance to better acclimatize. They're already sending us pictures from the base camp and waiting for us.

So far, they like everything, especially how they are fed. They even managed to get up to the peak of Mommies.

Yesterday, a group of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the top of Kazbek. There was a strong wind and generally difficult weather conditions. However, five members of our group were able to overcome all obstacles and reach the top. Many thanks to our Georgian friends, local guides, who did everything for the success of the expedition! 

  The second in this season group of the 7 Summits Club reached the summit of the highest volcano in Asia Mount Damavand (5671 m). The ascent was made in harsh conditions, which are not typical for this time of year.  Instead of fields of flowers and trodden paths, the group had to climb by snow-covered slopes in strong winds under unexpected conditions.

  But they did it!

  In addition to the mountains,  our team tried to plunge, as time allowed, in the color of Iran.  They went up to the TV tower of Tehran, which offers a panorama of the whole city.  They drove to the ancient cave settlement, visited the healing thermal springs at the foot of Damavand.

Today on June 11th at 10 am, in terrible weather visibility 20-30 m, snow and strong wind, Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko climbed to the top of the highest volcano in Asia - Damavand 5671m.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko:

Damavand surprise us. Personally, I was counting on a simple trekking along a rocky path (as everyone who was there in the summer told) in single-layer shoes and light jackets. The result: we put crampons in a shelter on 4200, walked all the way through the deep snow, in some places falling almost to the waist, our hands were freezing even in warm gloves, we almost had frozen noses. The visibility was 5-10 meters. It's good that we had a local guide - Hamid. Without him, we would have lost. And even with him a couple of times we almost decided to turn. The only thing that stopped us was that the forecast for the next day which  was even worse. But going down by fresh snow was convenient and fast:))) Conclusion – there is no warm mountains. It is better always take a stock of warm clothes! And crampons!

The race for the volcanoes! Now Luda Korobeshko went to Iran to climb the Demavent. Luda wants to finish the project of 7 volcanoes and become the first woman to make  7 Summits plus 7 volcanoes programs.  Climber on 7 + 7 Alexander Abramov  (and her husband) will help her!

The team of our Sherpas returned from Tibet to Kathmandu. Now they have to work on storing and preserving the equipment. Meanwhile, on May 29, Nepal celebrated the Day of Mount Everest. On this day, the heroes of the season were honored. And first of all, the record-holders for the number of ascents to the highest mountain of the World. That is, the honors went to Lhakpa Sherpa, member of  expedition of the 7 Summits Club And our syrdar, her brother, Mingma Gelu Sherpa, shot everything on his device.

Having climbed Mount Everest Vasily Shakhnovsky completed the program "Seven Summits", that is, the program of ascents to the highest peaks of all continents ... "All previous expeditions compared to this are now perceived as easy walks."

 In 2018, 100% of participants and expedition guides of the 7 Summits Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. In all, there are 59 people: 26 climbers (20 members and 6 guides) and 33 Sherpas.

Vasily Shakhnovsky:

First, I want to thank everyone who has been involved and helped me over the past year. Without your help, I would not be able to implement this project. Secondly, it was really hard and at some moments scary. All previous expeditions compared to this are now perceived as easy walks. Thirdly, I was once again convinced that people in the mountains are becoming different. From them flies off all the husks. Well, in the fourth.  I do not regret that I got involved in this story, although I did not foresee all the difficulties. Something like that. There are first orderly thoughts. Maybe after some time something smart will come to my mind. That is all.  Yes, I'll post the pictures now.

 Vasily Shakhnovsky is a former billionaire, 23rd on Forbes list in Russia and president of oil giant company Yukos. Before that, he was the closest associate of the mayor of Moscow and a member of Yeltsin's headquarters in the 1996 elections. Now Vasily Shakhnovsky lives in Swiss. With the 7 Summits Club  he climbed all seven summits and visited  two poles.

   In 2018, 100% of members and guides of the expedition of the 7 Summit Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. It is 59 PAX: 26 mountain climbers, 20  members (19 Russians and 1 Polish),  6 Russian guides and 33 Sherpas.

No one was injured or frostbite. This is the result of fifteen years of experience in organizing expeditions on Everest and other eight-thousanders by the 7 Summit Club, Alexander Abramov, his team of guides and Sherpas.

Our record achievements

Lhakpa Sherpa  is 9 times at the top, a world achievement among women.

National achievements

Alexander Abramov - 9th ascent.

Dmitry Tertychnyy is 17 years old, the youngest Russian.

Ksenia Samarina is 26 years old, the youngest Russian woman.

Alexander and  Dmitry Tertychnyy, and first family ascent of father + son in Russia.

Two married couples on top of Everest in one day (possibly a world achievement):

Igor Demyanenko - Jamilya Murtazina

Airat Yunusov - Zemfira Yunusova.

The re-ascent

Maxim Shakirov - 3rd time

Karina Mezova, Dmitry Ermakov, Vladimir Kotlyar, Andrey Mariev and Igor Demyanenko - the 2nd time.

 Alexander Abramov, expedition leader, President of the 7 Summits Club:

   In 2018, 100% of members and guides of the expedition of the 7 Summit Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. It is 59 PAX: 26 mountain climbers, 20  members (19 Russians and 1 Polish),  6 Russian guides and 33 Sherpas.

No one was injured or frostbite. This is the result of fifteen years of experience in organizing expeditions on Everest and other eight-thousanders by the 7 Summit Club, Alexander Abramov, his team of guides and Sherpas.

Our record achievements

Lhakpa Sherpa  is 9 times at the top, a world achievement among women.

National achievements

Alexander Abramov - 9th ascent.

Dmitry Tertychnyy is 17 years old, the youngest Russian.

Ksenia Samarina is 26 years old, the youngest Russian woman.

Alexander and  Dmitry Tertychnyy, and first family ascent of father + son in Russia.

Two married couples on top of Everest in one day (possibly a world achievement):

Igor Demyanenko - Jamilya Murtazina

Airat Yunusov - Zemfira Yunusova.

The re-ascent

Maxim Shakirov - 3rd time

Karina Mezova, Dmitry Ermakov, Vladimir Kotlyar,  Andrey Mariev and Igor Demyanenko - the 2nd time.

And also

In the  Base camp (5100): - the highest professional massage, the highest yoga training, the highest bar .

The largest team who ascended from Tibet in 2018:  26 climbers and 33 Sherpas (59 people).

The program "Seven summits"  was  completed by four men: Alexander and Dmitry Tertychnyy, Jamilya Murtazina and Alexey Balakin.