Asia - Page 85

On Saturday, December 3  a solemn evening of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FMR) took place in the center of Moscow in the Telegraph hall. The action is devoted to summing up year and delivery of awards to the caused a stir athletes. The awarding the prize "Gold Ice Axe of Russia" for the best climb of year was the main event, of course. However evening began, and it was very pleasant, from a celebration of new summiters of Everest. Since 2012 FMR awards them with the special medal.

 The organizers caused on the stage of our heroes of Everest. Members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club: Vlad Moroz, Roman Reutov, Irena Harazova, Igor Demyanenko. And also Masha Gordon, who climed from the South and forgotten in 2012 (when awarded all, since 1982) Vyacheslav Skripko. A bit later the award found one more heroine – Tatyana Yalovchak from Ukraine. She just was late. Awards will also be transferred to two more participants of our expedition: Oleg Pimenov and Vladimir Kotlyar.

We congratulate heroes of Everest!

And also the team of Moscow which won "Golden Ice Axe of Russia" for Thalay Sagar new route

and other winners of this evening.

Photos from Facebook from different authors:

 In September 2016 GRIT&ROCK announced a launch of an annual international FIRST ASCENT EXPEDITION PRIZE to enable female first ascents. The award, the largest of its kind globally, will fund a female-led expedition team up to the amount of GBP5,000. The aims of the annually awarded prize is to promote and encourage female participation in pioneering alpine ascents. The Award is open to individuals and climbing teams with majority female participation and is meant to provide funding for those who need it most.

The application deadline is January 31, 2017. The jury comprising Victor Saunders, Catherine Destivelle, Lydia Bradey and Lise Billon will choose a winning project by March 1, 2017.

To learn more, please download the award document here

or contact us at award@gritandrock.com

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The Alpinist magazine:

Masha Gordon, the founder of Grit & Rock, explains: "During my Explorers Grand Slam record bid [She holds the female speed record—Ed.], I spent over a hundred days in various base camps around the world where I have encountered quite a few budding female alpinists in commercial groups doing normal routes on high altitude peaks," Gordon said. "That contrasted with very few independent women climbers who were part of the teams launching alpine-style ambitious summit bids. That made me wonder about the disconnect. I looked at the history of Piolets d'Or, the Oscars of Alpinism, and discovered that in its twenty-four-year-long history it has been won only twice by women. Fewer women alpinists get sponsored as brand athletes.... As a result, women get less expedition experience and, perhaps, dare less, feeling unqualified. This vicious cycle creates an unintended high-altitude glass ceiling. Our $6,000 First Ascent Expedition Grant was designed to act as a catalyst to encourage more competent female alpinists to launch their first ascent bids."

Gordon said she wasn't sure how much interest there would be when she announced the grant. "Our fear was that we would get few applications," she said. "So far, the queries we've had came from highly competent climbers. So far, so good!"

The selection panel consisting of Lydia Bradey, Catherine Destivelle, Victor Saunders and Lise Billon will award the first prize in February. Bradey was the first woman to summit Everest (8848m) without supplemental oxygen in 1988. Destivelle did an eleven-day solo first ascent on the Petit Dru (3732) in 1991, the Destivelle Route (VI 5.11b A5, 800m), and the following year she became the first woman to complete a solo ascent of the Eiger Nordwand, which she did in winter in 17 hours in 1992, among many other climbing feats. Saunders is still blazing new routes in alpine style at age 66, which he did earlier this month on Sersank Peak (6050m) with Mick Fowler in the Indian Himalaya. Billon is a 2016 Piolet d'Or recipient for the second ascent of Cerro Riso Patron (2550m) in Chile via a new route called Hasta las Webas (AI5+, M5, ED- 1000m), which she climbed with Jerome Sullivan, Diego Simari and Antoine Moineville.

[Photo] Masha Gordon collection

"If we can encourage women to think outside of the box, lead their own expeditions and explore routes in remote parts of the world, it would be a fantastic achievement," Bradey said.

"Our Foundation's goal is to help raise a generation of brave and confident girls through the power of [the] outdoors," Gordon said. "These girls need role models. This prize is aimed at helping create them."

The 7 Summits Club opened booking  of the group in 2017: Climbing Kazbek (5033 m), Georgia.

Mount Kazbek - one of the most famous peaks of the Caucasus, the height of 5033 meters above sea level. Climbing requires little mountaineering experience. Georgia - a country which surprised by their attitude to the guests. Local guides are real professionals, they will ensure a safe ascent.

 Standard program

 Arrivals every Sunday - the next date of June 11-16.

Price: 480 euros.

 VIP program

 Dates: September 3-9.

The cost of 1190 euros.

  Our group named HOT SIZE under the command of the 7 Summits Club guide Vladimir Kotlyar rapport on completion of the program. Everything was great! All the plans made at 100%! Khumbu Valley, Base camp, Kala Patar and Island Peak...

Vladimir Kotlyar, the guide 7 Summits Club expedition to Island Peak: Hello everyone! Today we stopped in Chhukung. We held classes on movement on fixed ropes, learned to climb up and down.

Irina Zisman:

... Tomorrow we begin the ascent to which we went  8 days … We have behind us the Everest base camp, climbing KalaPatar. And today we look at the whole day to Island Peak - the goal of our journey ...)

Many thanks to Andrey Balta for the wonderful pictures!

Vladimir Kotlyar, the guide of the 7 Summits Club: Early morning, the altitude of 5500 m.  Wind plays with colorful prayer flags, the sun begins to peek out shyly from behind Everest, painting in soft pink snow-capped mountain ranges and peaks. I'm sitting on top of Kala Patar in the nest of the check boxes and backpacks. Frosty morning air is pleasant tingling skin. How is it beautiful!

 The group went to the Kala Patar and  in the base camp. Today we spend the night in Dingboche.

Vladimir Kotlyar, the guide of an expedition of Club of 7 Tops on Island peak:

 Hi, friends! We are in Pheriche! Competitive spirit, excellent weather (very fie). Views are tremendous!!!

Vladimir Kotlyar, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, an expedition on Island peak:

The “Hot Size” group came in the capital of Sherpas of Namche-Bazar. Thanks to the photographer of our team Andrey for tremendous, colourful and atmospheric photos!

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Morning began with a joke and presented a name to our group. Having arrived in Lukla, our men sat down in the territory of Sunny garden loggia, waited for me. We ordered a breakfast and so far made it for us, Andrey went to market disorders, to buy to himself socks.

   Having chosen socks, he asked the grandmother-seller in English: What size? The grandmother smiles, nods and repeats: What size? Andrey repeated: I ask you, what size? The grandmother smiles, nods and repeats: what size, what size. So proceeded until Andrey didn't understand that for the grandmother the question what size sounds as a greeting or a wish of good day. And she just repeats it as a reciprocal wish, smiling and nodding.

  It very much amused us also all day while we were on route from Lukla to Modzho, we cheerfully greeted passersby the phrase of "What size". We went without hurrying, enjoying beauty, as required always stopped to take pictures, told jokes, and nodding each other, said What size and with laughter continued a way. On the way to Modzho we saw snow-white Tamserku in all beauty. I just adore this track! Snow-white peaks, coniferous forests, the turquoise river with white foam of thresholds, deep gorges, suspension bridges, caravans of yaks and the blue deep sky over the head!

   All this begins from the first day of a track at the exit from Lukla and comes to an end with return to this town. By the evening the joke about what size turned into the name of the HOT SIZE group. Such here interesting transformation!

Dear Friends,

 It’s not a secret that this spring, we organized an expedition to mount Everest from the North side, in conjunction with «7 Summits Club», «RD Studio», «RedFox», «Yandex» and «Toyota». The expedition was stopped in half way, due to an earthquake magnitude of 8 – We were lucky that nobody from our Expedition was hurt. We were forced to evacuate.

Despite this fact, we managed to create a panoramic view of our 19km route, right from Base Camp (5100m) to Advanced Base Camp (6500m).

The Panoramas were published before the release of the film "Everest".

In the autumn of 2015, inspired by the many positive responses from your side, we decided to finish the job and began to organize an expedition in 2016.

May 20, 2016, we managed to reach the summit (8848м) and completed the full route whilst picturing everything in 3D panoramic views from base camp to the summit. May 22, 2016, we returned to base camp uninjured and safe.

Early June 2016 when we returned to Moscow, we started going through all the raw materials and then commenced our work to ensure it was of the highest standard. We created a special interactive page dedicated to the climb. Now, because of our project, everyone will be able to travel our full journey right from base camp (5100m) up until the summit of Everest (8848м). You will be able to pass this scenic mountainous route without exposing yourselves to any danger. 

We wanted to make such beauty more accessible and wanted to share with you this joy and positivity.

And yes – we were the first in the world to do a full 3D panoramic view of route to highest point in World – Everest Summit!

Thanks to all of those who participated in the project. We really appreciated your support. We appreciated your selfless dedication and inspiring enthusiasm.

Special thanks to:

- Anatoly Topol and Konstantin Lysenko from Yandex team – without your enthusiasm and faith, this project would not have taken place

- Olga Bolotova from the team Neq4 – as the most energetic team member of our project

- RD Studio team, and personally to Valdis Pelsh, Kristina Kozlova, Alexander Kubasov, Vladimir Kudinov – for your support in the mountains – with you there was never a boring moment

- expedition team and to Alexander Abramov – for the excellent organization of the expedition and the feeling of tranquility

- Vladimir Kotlyar and Vlad Moroz – for their selfless help during the expedition, faith and dedication

- Max Shakirov, project partner – because you were always never far behind

- colleagues, to team and to management – thank you very much for the opportunity you gave ma and fot believing in me

- parents, relatives and friends – for their support

- and, of course, to the Toyota team – for «Always a better way»

Together we make the world better – thank you.

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"I want to share with you the inspiring beauty of the world we live in."  Roman Reutov

Nadezhda Nikitina is back from Nepal, where she made one of  the most famous Nepalese trekking route - "Around Annapurna". Journey under the leadership of our Nepalese guide was organized by 7 Summits Club. On return, a Nadezhda shared with us her impressions and photos. She said that the local guides worked perfectly, that the country is a wonderful and there you have to return again and again

Fully gallery here:

Svetlana Nuzhum, guide of 7 summits Club:

Hello Everyone! The last 3 days we had a communication problem, and we have so much news! The 30th of October we reached Gorak Shep, had a bite and immediately went to the base camp of Everest. The march took about 3 hours there and back. And yesterday morning, the 31st of October, we stood on the summit of Kala Pattar (5550м). Weather, as a fact, throughout  all the track, stood great – no cloud and no wind. The views are super! In general, we are all happy. Today we dropped 1000 meters and get warm in Deboche. Tomorrow we will descend to Namche.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: 

 "Tube" did as he could! Victoria and Alexander Perig reached 6100 m,  Ivan - 5800, Alexander Logachev – the top! He was on the summit in the company of me, Vladimir Kotlyar. All - well done! About Perig couple I want to say that this is their first encounter with the mountains! Before this adventure they did not go any tracks or weekend trips, or climbed the rocks. Therefore, the height of 6,150 meters - more than decent result !!!

October 29^th  a group led by a guide of the 7 Summits Club Vladimir Kotlyar reached the village of Khare. Here, at an altitude of 4950 meters, the team will hold one day, they will relax and adapt to the altitude. The trek was  on a very beautiful places and they could  made excellent photos. The team, which was named "Tube", is ready for the ascent of Mount Mera Peak.

Svetlana Nuzhum, 7 Summits Club guide, program track to the base camp of Mount Everest:

Namaste! We have come to Tengboche (3870 m). Yesterday, as planned, we went to the "Everest View" hotel and Khumjung. The weather is wonderful, cloudless sky. We enjoy views of Everest and  it lures. The team feels great. Tomorrow we go to Pheriche…

The desire to climb Everest could be understand for almost everybody, that is,  for all normal people. There are a proven way to prepare: to ask the advice of the most important experts. And the best is not just to ask for advice, but go together in the mountains, to gain experience and learn from an experienced comrade necessary knowledge. Next summer we invite you to take part in a unique event - an expedition to Lenin Peak led by the most experienced climber on Everest in Russia, head of the 13 expeditions to the highest peak of the world,  master of sports Alexander Abramov.

The 7 Summits Club president seven times was up at the highest point of Mount Everest. Expedition to Lenin Peak under his guidance specifically planned as a stage of preparation for the ascent to Everest. Do not miss this rare opportunity!

Lenin Peak (Avicenna) - majestic mountain and valuable in itself. It cannot be underestimated, which, however, applies to any mountain. So prepare seriously: Train your body and mind, pick equipment, read literature etc…

Expedition to Lenin Peak under the leadership of Alexander Abramov

PROGRAM (in Russian)

We will also continue the implementation of our standard of climbing to Lenin Peak program under the guidance of our friends, the best guides of the Central Asian republics

PROGRAM (in Russian)

There are people who like the comfort of their living room – and then there are people who just can't help but break world records, over and over again. Skydiving and BASE-jump legend Valery Rozov definitely falls into the second category.

A new world record for the Russian legend

On October 5, 2016, after a 21-day expedition on the sixth-highest peak in the world – Mount Cho Oyu on the Chinese/Nepalese border – Rozov stood on the edge of his chosen exit spot at 7,700m and leapt into thin air, breaking his own record from 2013 by 500m.

It was my dream and my goal for the last three years.

Valery Rozov

Climbing Cho Oyu is no small accomplishment on its own, let alone BASE jumping from the top of the south-west wall. The expedition itself wasn’t so easy for the group of climbers.

A recent dump of fresh snow and a few days of very bad weather meant the group were unable to reach the exit spot at the first attempt. They had to wait a full week before being able to make another attempt. But once they saw the weather clearing up and allowe a little time for the snow to melt a bit at the exit spot, it was go time.

 Valery Rozov climbing his way up Mount Cho Oyu in the Himalayas

After 90 seconds of pure freefall, Rozov opened his parachute and kept flying for another two minutes before landing safely on the glacier below, at 6,000 meters above sea level.

For the Russian legend, boundaries are made to be pushed and limits are made to be exceeded: nothing seems to be too much of a challenge for him.

The 51-year-old athlete is no stranger to breaking record with a combination of mountaineering and BASE-jumping. In early May of 2013, he set the previous world record for the highest BASE jump by leaping from an altitude of 7,220m from Changtse in the Everest Massif.

http://www.redbull.com/en/adventure/stories/1331825478086/new-record-highest-base-jump-rozov

Svetlana Nuzhum, a guide of 7 summits Club: Hurray, we in Phading! After a long wait at the airport, in connection with the jam in the airspace Kathmandu, we finally got to Lukla. Despite the delay, we went further in a good mood and pace, and after 3 hours was Phakding. We even went down to the river Dudh-Kosi and some even put legs in the water. Now go to dinner and go to bed – it’s been a long day!

The event will be held on October 13^th  on Thursday, beginning at 20:00. The 7 Summits Club celebrates its birthday and invites you to share the feast of all his friends and those who would like to become a friend. We invite you to our office ul. Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya, 7. Metro Prospekt Mira.

In the evening we will tell about our key expeditions of 2016, we summarize the results of several months of travel and climbing programs. You will find a meal and attention from the owners.

We present  main guests of the evening:

Oscar Konyukhov, the son and Manager of the greatest Russian traveler, tells about the organization of the expedition Fyodor Konyukhov  "balloon Flight around the world."

The participant of expeditions 7 summits Club, master of sports Alexander Yakovenko will speak about the project team's Vysota. Russian national team on high-altitude mountaineering, which this year closed the project "Snow leopard" five peaks in one summer.

We will also welcome the members of our expedition on Cho-Oyu this year, leader Sergei Larin. They had just come back from the Himalayas and will tell, how was the ascent.

We invited Natalia Kartashov our wonderful guide and instructor on the Crimean rocks. She's in the capital of many friends and we hope that they will not miss the opportunity to see her...

Natasha will tell us about the adventures of a team of 7 summits during the Big autumntrip to the Crimea. In particular, we share the impressions about participation in a unique race Crimea X Run - hard tests, an unforgettable experience!

Come, really looking forward to meeting You!

In 2006 Northern Irish adventurer Noel Hanna summited Everest for the first time in his life, one year after suffering retinal haemorrhaging on his first attempt.

Not content with climbing the world’s tallest mountain, after his descent Hanna then cycled down to sea level.

 In the following year the adventurer would complete the same feat on six different peaks; Mt. Vinson, Cartensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, each the tallest mountains on their respective continents.

 Hanna is the first and so far only person to complete this astounding challenge.

 “It was a good challenge so it was,” he chuckles, reflecting on the superhuman effort.

 Ten years after his first successful Everest attempt, the Dromara-based climber has returned to conquer the mountain a further seven times – twice with his wife.

Hanna’s Everest pet-hate is poorly prepared climbers not respecting the mountain.

He wants to share his wisdom for those looking to take on the unforgiving mountain – less the mountain disrespects them back.

 Training on the hills – then climbing another mountain Hanna’s background in running ultra-marathons meant that he was well prepared for taking on Everest. However, he suggests that we don’t all need to be at that fitness level.

“If you’re a person of regular fitness, running 10ks or half marathons and going to the gym two to three times a week, that’s the base and then it’s just about getting out to the hills and walking with a big rucksack.

“Walking at weekends, maybe a four hour-walk or a five-hour walk in the hills with a backpack on.

“It’s very beneficial if you go to a high mountain before you go to Everest. Somewhere like Aconcagua in South America.”

Noel Hanna and his wife Lynne at the top of Everest (Photo: noelhanna.com)

Training the mind

Hanna suggests that the fitter you are, the more confident you’re going to feel on the mountain.

 “If you’re the weakest on a team, mentally that’s going to bring you down; if you’re one of the fittest on the team, mentally that’s keeping you strong.

“Go at your pace, don’t try and keep up with someone else just because they’re on your team, you have to go at your own body’s pace.”

Hanna’s kit list for Everest expeditions

Equipment for Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp: Duffle bag, sleeping bag, foam pad, gas lamp, gas stove, gas cylinders, personal items for washing, your favourite games, notebook

Technical equipment for ascent: Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12), rucksack 70-80 litres, rucksack 35-40 litres, harness, prussiks, karabiners with screwgate lockers – 3 items, jumar (ascender), telescope ski poles, thermos, rappel device, ice axe, head lamp, photo camera, video camera and assessors, accumulators, personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet: Trekking shoes, boots of “Everest” Millet type, down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls), Gore-tex jacket with wide hood, Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls), windblock jacket, windblock trousers, jacket “Polartec – 100”, warm underwear, personal underwear, Polartec gloves, Thinsulate gloves, Thinsulate mittens, warm woolen socks, balaclava, warm hat, windblock face mask, UV glasses, ski goggles (preferably), gaiters

Hone your ropework in the

Highlands Any technicals skills required to take on Everest can be perfected in the Scottish Highlands, or the Alps, according to Hanna.

“With Everest, there’s a technical side to it, but you don’t need to be super skilled on ropework for Everest.”

 Hanna says it is essential to religiously work on your ropework, be confident in rapelling (abseiling) and jumarring (climbing up a rope).

 Additionally, would-be Everest climbers need to be competent in clipping in and out of ropes, as well as passing anchors.

 “All of that could be done in the Highlands of Scotland or even in a climbing gym, but obviously it’s more beneficial to get in the snow with your crampons on and doing the training that way, or going to the Alps and doing Mont Blanc.”

Don’t rely on the sherpa

All climbers must be capable of doing the climb by themselves and there can be no over-reliance on sherpas.

 “A lot of people will think ‘Oh I’ve got a sherpa, if something happens to me he’s carrying me down’, but if the sherpa feels that his life is at risk he’s going to leave you.”

Tortellini and Coca-Cola

Hanna suggests that a drastic change in diet isn’t necessary for taking on the mountain.

“Some people take protein powders, but I don’t. I just eat normally, I don’t change my diet from home when I’m on the mountain because most good expeditions on the mountain, especially in the North side, get fresh stuff in all the way to base camp.

“We cook food all the way up to 7,000 metres and it’s really only on summit push at 7,700 and 8,300 that you use boil in the bag food, but normally we would have tins of tuna and foil packs of tuna.

“Ideally I like to put on maybe two or three pounds before I go to the mountain.

” Keeping yourself well fed even when your appetite fades is essential, says Hanna.

“A lot of people over 6 -7,000 metres lose their appetite. You need to force yourself to eat. It’s like a car if you don’t put petrol in it, it’s not going to go.”

 The Northern Irishman’s unconventional eating and drinking habits suggests there is room for a few home comforts when tackling the fearsome summit.

“The first year I was climbing there with a good friend of mine from Italy and he had taken tortellini pasta up with us and I had packets of tuna and we just made a lovely meal before we went to summit.

“I’ve always taken a bottle of Coke with me and I remember three years ago going for the summit – I had a small bottle of Coke – stopping to take a drink of it and as soon as I opened the lid it just exploded and 90% of the liquid inside just flew out of it with the pressure.

“I was devastated.” Noel Hanna (Photo: noelhanna.com)

 ‘There is no wall’

Hanna recommends running your own race and ignoring mountain literature that tells you exactly where you will struggle. Undoubtedly having strong mental fortitude is crucial to a successful ascent.

 “I went into climbing from endurance sports, like 100 mile runs. Somebody who has never done a marathon before, the first thing they will say to you is ‘when will I hit the wall?’ It’s a myth, it’s somebody else’s wall.

“If you’ve read a book that says you’re not meant to struggle till 7,000 metres and you’re struggling at 6,000 metres, mentally that’s going to affect you.

“I’ve seen people who struggle on their first acclimatization rotation, but once they get that sorted they’re the strongest on summit push. “I always said that 70% of it is in the head.”

 Bring a lucky charm

Making  physical, technical and mental preparations is empirical, but having a lucky charm is also of importance, says Hanna.

“My wife gave me a lucky black cat on a keyring and it’s gone to every mountain with me since 2004.

“I’m not superstitious or anything, but every single mountain that I go on, it’s attached on my rucksack.

“When I’m leaving on an expedition I need to make sure that cat’s with me.”

What does Everest mean to Hanna?

For most who complete the summit, Everest will hold a special place in their heart. For Hanna it was just another mountain – until his German Shepherd Babu passed away last year.

 “Me and my wife have a German Shepherd pup who was ten and a half years old, he passed away 10 months ago. We said if anything ever happened to him we’d take his ashes to the summit of Everest.

“That’s what me and my wife did this year, we took his ashes with us and we sprinkled them a couple metres from the summit and had a wee tearful moment for him.

“When I think of Everest now, I think of my dog’s ashes. Everest is the most thoughtful mountain for me. We don’t have any children so he was the closest thing we had.”

Read more at: https://inews.co.uk/essentials/news/uk/girls-body-image-one-three-believe-not-pretty-enough/