South America - Page 11

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Peru:
Greetings from the Alpaca group! If there are places in the world where there is no Internet, then we are traveling through them these three days. Today we spent the night in a valley near Lake Ausangate, in tents at an altitude of 4650 m. And in the early morning our way lay through the Palomani pass with a height of 5200. The weather pleases us, but after lunch it turn on the water (rain). Next, our way lies to the base camp of Maria Peak.

Alexander Dorojukov, Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Buenos dias from the Sandia alegre band! Yesterday we had a day of rest, relaxing in our comfortable base camp. Today, according to the plan, we climbed to Plaza Canada (altitude 5000m). The weather has improved, there is practically no wind, we had a great walk today.

A ski trip to the South Pole has just ended and here are 2 new teams now in Antarctica. The Vinson Mountain team will climb the highest peak in Antarctica. This is the key to the Seven Summits project. The ascent will be led by guides Artyom Rostovtsev and Tomasz Kobelski from Poland. There are 6 participants and 2 guides in the group. And the team went to Sidley Volcano, the highest volcano in Antarctica . This is the key to the Seven Volcanoes project. The team consists of 8 participants led by Lyudmila Korobeshko and American guide Larry Holmgren. In total, 8 people have conquered the "Seven volcanoes" in Russia at the moment. 6 more people will be added in case of luck after the expedition to Sidley Volcano. Good luck!
Alex Abramov from Aconcagua Base Camp, where this year the 7 Summits Club has six groups from the beginning of December to the end of February. We are the best!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

The night from January 31 to January 1, 2024, the team of Alex Abramov and Mingma Gelu Sherpa spent at the Nido de Condores Camp. At an altitude of 5,600 meters. Probably the highest in the world this New Year! The camp is great. We have a large tent with a kitchen-dining room. Tables, chairs, dishes. Even a large stove with a 20-liter cylinder. And this is at the height of the summit of Mount Elbrus. It's a pleasure to be there. We went down quickly.
Now we have a rest day down at the Plaza de Mulas camp, we sleep until we stop. Tomorrow, January 3rd, we have an assault exit according to the plan. We want to be on top of Aconcagua on the 5th. There is a strong wind, but on the night of the 4th to the 5th, the wind should be slightly weaker. 60-70 km per hour. Let's see what kind of Aconcagua-24 is…

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Argentina:

Greetings from Patagonia! We have great news, we have climbed our summit! And this is the first mountain in Patagonia for Alexey. We had a great adventure.
The first day was a very beautiful trekking of 13 km to the base camp. Overnight in a tent on a small area between the rocks and exit at dawn. We went under the wall along the glacier and began the ascent itself. Moreover, Alexey was in the lead for the first half of the route, confidently moving along the cliff and reliably belayed. Here you need to do everything yourself, the rock is clean, not prepared, use special equipment (camalots). And we were calm for the leader, the training was not in vain.

That's just before the very top, we ran into a local rope that was slower, but there was no way to overtake them. We were roasting in the sun for 40 minutes, and did not wait for their descent.
As a result, 14 hours from camp to camp. It may not be fast, but it is safe and calm.
We decided to spend New Year's Eve down in the village and practically ran down, and the change of the year caught us 4 kilometers from the finish line on the shore of Lake Capri.
Now we are resting, waiting for the weather window for the main ascent.
Happy New Year to all!
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Dorojukov, reports from Argentina:
Buenos dias from the Sandia alegre band! We reached the Plaza de Mulas today. A good place to celebrate the New Year. In 8 hours we came here and celebrated the New Year in Moscow. We are working further. The guides are Dmitry Semenov and Alexander Dorojukov.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Peru:
First of all, Happy New Year to everyone! We wish you health and adventures, without which there is no health! News from the Alpaca group. Everything is going according to plan. We moved to Machu Picchu, spent the night and started early in the morning to places still unexplored by people. I recommend definitely visiting them!

The president of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, and our main Nepalese partner Mingma Sherpa, moved from Confluencia Camp to Plaza de Mulas base camp on December 29. There they were met by our company's guide Valery Myasoedov, who showed them the camp's structure.
Alexander Abramov : We have the best base camp on Aconcagua. The best conditions. See for yourself! Now we are going out for acclimatization to spend the night at the Nido de Condores camp (condor's nest). We'll shoot and send a video of the upper camp there. You will be surprised. There is a large dining room, tables, chairs under the clouds. While everyone else is cooking, squatting in small tents, our participants are drinking coffee and playing board games at tables and chairs at the height of the top of Mount Elbrus. The best camps on Aconcagua are at the 7 Summits Club.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Buenos dias from the Sandia alegre team! First of all, our cheerful group wishes everyone a Happy New Year! We wish you all good health and a peaceful sky! We are continuing our acclimatization program according to plan. Today we went to the Plaza de Francia in good weather with beautiful views. A light breeze was blowing, moving the stones. But this did not stop us, the views are gorgeous, we walk confidently and steadily. Tomorrow we move on to celebrate the New Year at Plaza de Mulas.
The guides are Dmitry Semenov and Alexander Dorojukov.

Alexander Dorojukov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Buenos dias from the band Sandía alegre! Today we reached the Confluencia camp. We walked slowly with beautiful views. For the first time, Aconcagua was opened to the team members, we can say the first meeting with the mountain. Everyone is cheerful, we are working according to the program, with beauty on the way. The guides are Dmitry Semenov and Alexander Dorojukov.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Peru:
Hello everyone! After long flights Moscow — Doha - Sao Paulo - Lima - Cusco, we got to a good hotel and slowly acclimatize to the city of Cusco at an altitude of 3,300 meters. The band members walked around the beautiful town and saw the local sights. The weather is hot, but it started to rain a little in the evening. Today we leave for Via Ferrata. Wait for the photo and video report, guide Viktor Volodin.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Greetings from Patagonia! We climbed another multi-pitch as a training. It turned out to be a good workout, the weather was cool and windy. We climbed slowly, documented every step, and Alexey's fall was caught on camera. It looks scary, but this is a normal working moment on the route! We had four days of climbing training and are resting today.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, and our main Nepalese partner Mingma Sherpa are walking to the Aconcagua base Camp. The plans is to climb to the summit of Aconcagua in 10 days. Today they are spending the night in a comfortable Confluencia camp.

Alexander Abramov:
"Now we are in the Confluencia camp. We ate very tasty and well. We have a great dining room, great food. And there's a gorgeous sunset behind me. There are always beautiful sunsets on Aconcagua."
"At the Confluence camp, we met our friend, the Japanese guide Hiro. With a group of Japanese. We are friends."

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Buenos días from the team Sandía alegre! Today we moved to Puente del Inco, the first camp of our expedition before entering the Aconcagua National Park. We settled into comfortable houses, took a walk to see the Inca Bridge. Then we will have a delicious dinner and rest. The guides are Dmitry Semenov and Alexander Dorojukov.

Andrey Berezin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Buenos Dias! We haven't been in touch for several days. So, in order.
The end of December in Aconcagua is still the beginning of the season, and the weather is not stable yet, with strong winds. According to the forecast, there will be a strong wind on the planned day of the ascent, and we decided to move the assault to a spare day.

We climbed the Nido de Condores. We have a tent camp there, with a comfortable dining room. We spent the night. The wind constantly shook the tents. In the morning, closer to lunch, we went up to the camp Berlin. This is a cozy camp, where there was no one except our tents. Plus, the rock was blocking us from the west wind. We settled in tents.

By four in the morning, the wind began to subside. They went out to the summit bid. We reached the traverse in 3 hours, then there was a section with a strong wind. Fortunately, the wind is at your back, and not for long. Then the climb to the Cave began along the sypukha. We took a deep breath in the Cave, ate and moved to the top. Three more hours on rocks and snow, and here is the summit, where surprisingly it was almost calm. Memorable photos and videos, mutual congratulations. Then we descend to our camp Berlin. Dinner, overnight and descent to the Plaza de Mulas. Where we had a festive lunch and the awarding of medals to all participants. The guides of the Brain Storm group are Andrey Berezin, Sergey Avtomonov and Valery Myasoedov.

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Patagonia:
Hello everyone! Today is a sunny day in Patagonia again and we decided to entertain ourselves with bouldering (rock climbing) in a very beautiful, magical forest. We found special mattresses for belay, bought pies, cooked a mate and spent several hours on the rocks. When you are in the process of climbing like this, it may seem that you are lying on the mattress more than you are moving. But in fact, the body gets very tired of the extreme movements that have to be performed in order to make such micro-ascents. And this is a wonderful finger training and ninja climbing skills.

And, of course, the incredible views of our destination - Mount Fitzroy!

This area around the town of El Chalten is famous for its climbing stones. Of course, there is classical rock climbing here, but first of all it is a bouldering area where all local climbers come for the summer, and in February an international festival is even held.
In the evening, we continued our endless conversations about the weather and made plans. And for tomorrow we decided to look at our condition: arrange a light trekking the next day or climb the wall again. In any case, we will not be bored and we will spend our time usefully. Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Boris Egorov transmits from Argentina:
Greetings from Argentina! Our unique program in Patagonia has finally begun. Yesterday we stopped at the small tourist village of El Chalten at the foot of the mountains, and today we have already conducted the first warm-up training on the rocks, climbed many simple routes. It is very sunny, but the famous Patagonian wind does not let us relax. We squint at the light and crunch the sand on our teeth. Tomorrow we will work out the joint-work in the multipitches.
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Andrey Berezin, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Buenos Dias from the slopes of Aconcagua! The Brain Storm group spent the night at Nido de Condores, at an altitude of 5500m, as part of acclimatization. Our camp is located on a flat area closed from the wind, consists of a dining room and several tents for climbing participants.

In the morning, we climbed to an altitude of 5800m to consolidate acclimatization, after which we went down to the base camp to rest. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.

Andrey Berezin, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

 Buenos Dias from the slopes of Aconcagua! Today we have a rest day before going to Nido de Condores (we will spend the night there). We spent the day usefully.  First, we took care of the equipment: we fitted the crampons to the shoes. Then we visited the gallery of the artist Miguel Dauro, looked at his work. In the evening, we passed the medical check necessary before going to altitude. We're going to spend the night at Nido de Condores tomorrow. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.

Andrey Berezin, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Buenos Dias from the slopes of Aconcagua!  The band "Brain Storm" continues to explore new heights. Today we had an acclimatization rotation to Plaza Canada, the height is 5060 meters. We climbed at a good pace and spent about an hour at this altitude. After that, we went down to the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Tomorrow we are resting, preparing for an acclimatization trip with an overnight stay at Nido de Condores.  The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.