Very few high and well known mountains have kept through history their ancient names: Olympus, Fujiyama, Vesuvio, Demavend and Elbrus. Mt.Khan Tengri can join this great company. “Ruler of skies”, “Inaccessible for man”: these were the emotions the majestic pyramid gave rise to with ancient people. The peak stands in the eastern part of the Tengri Tag Range of the Tien Shan mountain system. This pyramid has a fantastic charming touch: the ...
Deposit for reservations 1 000 $
Full payment 60 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 60 days!
Professional mountaineering guide:
- group of 1-3 pax – 1 guide
- group of 4-6 pax - 1 guide and 1 guide’s assistant
- group of 7-10 pax - 1 guide and 2 guide’s assistants
• Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent!)
- Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set
• High-altitude food
meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek;
transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
helicopter flight to BC and back;
unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek“;
free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
consultancy service of local guide;
consultancy of doctor;
registration with local Rescue Party;
ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
usage of fixed ropes on the route;
change of air-flight and railway tickets;
frontier zone permit;
Price does not include
The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
Moscow – Bishkek - Karakol – Karkara – North Inylshek Glacier - Summit - Moscow
Why go there?
Very few high and well known mountains have kept through history their ancient names: Olympus, Fujiyama, Vesuvio, Demavend and Elbrus. Mt.Khan Tengri can join this great company. “Ruler of skies”, “Inaccessible for man”: these were the emotions the majestic pyramid gave rise to with ancient people. The peak stands in the eastern part of the Tengri Tag Range of the Tien Shan mountain system. This pyramid has a fantastic charming touch: the rosy-grey colour of its marble façade. The other, historical, touch is that only in 1989 foreign climbers got a chance to see and touch it “alive”.
There are about ten routes of different grades of difficulty to the summit of Khan Tengri. They are divided into two groups: from the South Inylchek Glacier and from the opposite side, the North Inylchek Glacier.
The classic route from the latter is practically avalanche-free. Some other convenient features of this route: up to Chapayev Peak’s shoulder it is visible from BC (so the rescue people can watch the climbers’ progress through their binoculars); VHF radio is very stable on this side; a lot of good acclimatizing options: Kyrlytau (5450m), Bayankol (5791m) and Kazakhstan (5761m) peaks; last but not least: at the start of the climbing season the route is equipped with fixed ropes which help speed and safety.
There is an esthetical side as well: for the background this climb has Khan Tengri’s north wall: 3000m high, made of black and yellow marble.
The route follows a rocky spur and comes to the snow dome of Chapayev Peak, from which the wide snowy West Ridge takes over. It ends at 5900m and another rocky ridge goes on to the summit. Good camping places are at 4500m (Camp 1), 5500m (Camp 2) and 5900m (Camp 3: a comfortable place for tents or snow caves). For tents the West Ridge offers only some rocky shelves at 6400m, so this Camp 4 is not always used by climbers who prefer to start from Camp 3 and spend on the ascent 12-14 hours. In 2006 and earlier some people managed to put in 20-25…
Tips guidelines (important information!)
You entrust your life, health, your time and money to the guides. And the guides take this responsibility for you and for the success of the whole trip. They are doing this 24 hours.
10-20 USD per day is expected as the normal amount of tips for the Guides and the staff of the program. If you liked everything about the trip, please don't forget to thank them. You can give the tips directly to the Main Guide and he will distribute it among the staff.
By air and by land
From Bishkek to Karakol we go in comfortable cars, minivans or buses (depends on group size); from Karakol to Miyda-Adyr BC and back - in less comfortable 4WD vehicles.
From Miyda-Adyr BC to Inylchek BC and back - by helicopter, MI8-MTV
Hotels 2* B&B, double room basis
In camps stationary tents and strong assault ones (for 2-3)
Self-catering in the towns
Full board in BCs (3 meals a day, professional cooks, vegetarian menu available, meals made to order)
In high camps meals are cooked by guides, water is melted snow
Health and medical insurance
Our guide will have a first aid kit. We strongly recommend to bring with your own specific medicines you might need. Besides, we recommend to start taking some vitamin complex 3 weeks before the expedition. A very good idea would be to test and acclimatize yourself, say, on Elbrus (in June).
As in all high mountains weather is quite unpredictable, but July and August are the most favorable months for the ascent.
Food in towns
Food-stuffs for ascent
Tips for local staff
Large expedition bag (optional)
Warm sleeping bag (good for -20°C)
Crampons (we recommend Grivel G12)
Rucksack 80-90 liters
Rucksack 40-60 liters
Harness (Petzl or Black Diamond)
Self belay device
Screwgate karabiners - 3-4 (Petzl, BD or Yatis)
Jumar ascender (Petzl)
Collapsible ski poles
Personal washing implements
Plastic boots (“Everest” by Millet or “Scarpa Vega”)
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore Tex jacket with a large hood
Gore Tex trousers (semi-overalls preferably)
Jacket “Polartec - 100” - 2 items
Warm underwear - 2 sets
Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
Windblock face mask
UV protection glasses (plastic, not glass!)
Ski goggles (preferably)
Accumulators and accessories for your camera(s)