The team of the 7 Summits Club and Club 8000 decided to curtail the expedition. Dhaulagiri has remained impregnable this season
The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:
May 11th. Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Yesterday, half of the camp went down. It was a fairly large Indian expedition (about 10 participants and the same number of Sherpas). They spent a month and a half on the mountain and after another unsuccessful attempt to hang the ropes (on May 8-9, the national team tried to do this, but only reached 7,400), they decided to curtail the expedition.
As a result, our team of 6 people remained at Dhaulagiri, and another international team of 7 people.
As of yesterday morning, the input data was as follows
In fact, there are no fixed ropes. Those that the team re-(!) hung up to 7,400 a day ago are already under the snow. It needs to be re-hung, and from C1 - there are many cracks opened.
The condition of the site from C2 to C3 is very avalanche-prone.
The ropes are all used up, we need to bring new ones from Kathmandu.
And the main thing is the weather. Snowfall is expected daily for the next 8-9 days…
After weighing all this, we decided to wind down. The members of the international team said they were waiting for our decision (they have almost no Sherpas for making the route). And they were very happy when they found out that we were winding down. They said that everything was correct. By the way, there are very interesting characters in the national team. Anna Tybor from Poland, who planned to ski down from the top of Dhaulagiri. Arjun is a Hindu who became the youngest climber to descend Lhotse and Everest in 2010. He is making a 14X8000 project. He says that he has agreed on the possibility of entering Pakistan, and this is the main problem for Hindus. He hopes to become the first Indian to climb all 14 eight-tiers. Aiden is a climber from Turkey who has climbed 10 out of 14. This is his third time on Dhaulagiri. And some more interesting characters. We've become friends here.
After making a difficult decision, we had a farewell dinner.
We've been waiting for a helicopter to fly to Pokhara all morning. By 13.00 he almost reached us, then everything was covered with clouds and heavy snow began to fall.
We hope to leave tomorrow morning now… Some participants have ideas to try to rush to Kangchenjunga and Lhotse. But first we need to get to Kathmandu.