Korobeshko Luda

Brief news from Dhaulagiri.  Our climbing team, led by Sirdar Lakpa Makalu, left the Dhaulagiri base camp (4700m) at about 6.30 am today for the first camp at 5800 for overnight stay and acclimatization. By lunchtime, according to our cook Dendy, the whole group was already in the first camp. The weather is good. Tomorrow, according to the plan, our group should go down to the base camp for rest.

Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Irina Zisman reports: We are healthy. We sleep well, we eat even better, we keep the oxygen level in all possible ways. Today we are getting ready to go out again, we have adjusted the equipment, cats, prepared sausage, cheese, other things and a reasonable amount of toilet paper.

We also did not forget the traditional photo of the entire team, including Sherpas, a Dandy cook with assistants and an electrician (perhaps he has other functions).

 Today's aperitif at 6.30 pm was more restrained than usual: we decided to refrain from raising the already high tone. Then everything is according to plan: SPA treatments with hot towels, a hearty dinner. It started snowing again ... We hope he won't interfere with our plans …

While the head of expedition Luda Korobeshko is recovering in Kathmandu, the team continues to work according to plan and send reports on the work done. Irina Zisman and the Team reports:

 23.04. Today we were preparing for tomorrow's exit to the first camp. Part of the team took a walk in the neighborhood, the rest were saving up resources. But the sunny weather turned to snowfall and after lunch we decided to cancel the exit, because the passage of some sections becomes unsafe.

After a short afternoon rest, everyone traditionally gathered at 6.30 pm for an aperitif with lard to maintain tone, morale and oxygenation. After a video call with the head, the spirit, tone and oxygen increased significantly. Our chef Dendy, as always, indulged in gastronomic delights, after dinner with chicken soup and momo it is difficult to reach the tent, so for now we are sitting in a warm, quiet family circle!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal from the participants of the expedition on Dhaulagiri! Today we spent the first night at a new altitude - 4700 in the Dhaulagiri valley. On beds with sheets and pillows. However, some participants decided that they did not want to relax too much, and put mattresses on the floor for themselves - this is more familiar. 

We have established a good Internet connection in the camp. In the morning, I realized that I was completely ill. I decided to go down to Kathmandu for rest and recovery. I handed out instructions to the team members. Well, they are all experienced - each has 3-5 eight-thousanders. We decided that the first rotation (overnight at C1 at 5800) they would go without me. But under the strict guidance of our most experienced sirdar Lakpa Makalu. Now our Sherpas have installed C1 and made a cast of C2. The fixed ropes are hung up to the assault camp C3.

After breakfast, the participents walked to the beginning of the route - to the crampons point (where the glacier begins and the crampons put on). And after lunch they put me in a helicopter. So I'm already in Kathmandu. I'm trying to recover. And get back in line.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4700! Today we made a long march from 3600 (Italian Base Camp) to the main Base camp at 4700. It took us 7.5 hours. The path is not the easiest - there are many ascents and descents. So we gained about 1,500 meters in total.

The valley leading to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp is absolutely wild. We didn't meet anyone at all on the way. And the terrain is very similar to Tibet. The route to the Middle Camp is moraines, steep cliffs, dust, waterfalls.

Our camp is very comfortable - large single tents with beds. We plan to rest and acclimatize in the base camp for the next two days.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, transmits from Nepal by satellite phone:

 Good afternoon! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Dhaulagiri. Today, April 20th, we are at the Italian base camp at an altitude of 3600, under the Western face of Dhaulagiri. We've been here for three days now. Yesterday, April 18th, we arrived and took a walk. On April 19th, we had a full-fledged acclimatization day. We climbed up the slopes to the Western Wall. We gained 500 meters vertically. And today is like our final day here, at this altitude, in this camp.

Today we decided to take a walk to several beautiful waterfalls, which turned out to be very close to the camp. However, the path to them turned out to be quite difficult. It was necessary to drop about 250 meters down steeply to the river. And then go to her and gain another 300 meters. We didn't reach the waterfalls, but we had a very good walk.

 We're having lunch now. The weather is not bad. However, clouds are coming up now. And tomorrow, according to the plan, we will trek to our base camp, directly under our route from the North. That is, tomorrow we have to walk 6-8 hours and about 12 kilometers. Everyone feels good. Nadezhda is flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow. And our six will continue their adventures and climb Dhaulagiri. At the moment, we are informed that the fixing ropes ends in the second camp. And even they were made to the third camp. But apparently there were snowfalls and they were a little bit swept up. We're supposed to be at Base Camp tomorrow night. Perhaps there will be more information. And we hope that tomorrow we will be able to connect the Internet. See you tomorrow!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal by satellite phone:

  Hello everyone from Dhaulagiri! So, our team arrived at the Italian Base camp under the Western Face of Dhaulagiri yesterday, April 18. Everything is fine! We flew in by helicopter and set up camp here. And we even managed to take a walk yesterday to acclimatize a little higher. The height is almost 3700 meters. Everyone feels good. The night went well too.  In the evening, of course, we celebrated our arrival under a new mountain for us. And now it's a nice sunny morning. The entire Western Face is visible.

According to the plan, we will spend two more nights here. We will acclimatize today, tomorrow, and the day after tomorrow we are going to move to the main base camp. It's more than a kilometer higher. We will go around the mountain a little bit and approach from the north and our route will run completely from the north side of Dhaulagiri. Well, it's very beautiful, very wild. There are no villages here, the nearest village is two days' journey down. That is, everything is fine, hello everyone! All participants feel great.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

  Namaste!  Now from Pokhara from the Dhaulagiri group of the 7 Summits Club. 25 minutes of summer and we are already drinking morning coffee at the Pokhara Hotel on the shore of Lake Fewa. While flying on the right side, we saw our beautiful Manaslu (we climbed in the fall of 2019), waved to her, remembered the work of the High-Altitude Laboratory…

We decided to wait out the daytime heat at +34 at the hotel. Here we met Vladimir Gonchar and other persons from Annapurna. I was impressed by the stories about the storming of Annapurna.

In the late afternoon, we took boats and sailed to the other side of Lake Fewa. There we went up to the Peace Stupa on the top of the nearest hill. The views are amazing. A place with a very strong energy! Energized before a long expedition 😊

On the way back, we were greeted on the shore with torches and dancing. It turned out to be a local Aarati ceremony (as in Pashupati). We had dinner and decided to go to bed early. Enjoy the final night in civilization. After all, tomorrow morning we are already moving by heli into the Italian Base Camp at 3600m.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Today was our final day in Kathmandu. We walked through the Tamel, issued permits for Dhaulagiri, attended the amazing evening Aarati ceremony in Pashupatinath and did the most important action that traditionally brings success to our team - walked three times around the largest stupa of Buddhanath.

In the evening we sat at the Hard Rock Cafe, where we finally met with our sirdar and a great friend, Lakpa Makalu. He has just successfully climbed Makalu (last Thursday) and supervised the installation of fixed ropes. He arrived in Kathmandu today. And tomorrow, early in the morning, he flies with us to Pokhara and then to Dhaulagiri.

We will try to keep in touch.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

All namaste from Kathmandu from the Dhaulagiri group! Today, all participants of the expedition to Dhaulagiri gathered in the capital of Nepal. Each participant of our expedition has already visited Kathmandu several times and managed to climb several eight-thousand meters. Everyone has 3-5 8000+ vertices behind their backs. Having more experience, we all had a good rest from the flights today and went to our favorite Mezze in the evening. Then Nims (with whom we have repeatedly crossed paths on different 8000) invited us to a nearby Penthouse bar, where we tasted a set of "14 eight-thousanders" and tried to find our own Dhaulagiri.  A serious mountain 😊

Tomorrow we get permits, perform the most important ritual for good luck (try to guess which one) and visit Pashupatinath at sunset.

A few days remain before the start of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Dhaulagiri - 8167m, the seventh highest peak in the World. The expedition participants are some of the most experienced Russian high-altitude climbers.

⠀Leader: Lyudmila Korobeshko - Director of the 7 Summits Club, implemented the Seven Summits project three times, visited the poles twice, climbed Mount Everest three times, as well as Cho-Oyu, Manaslu, Makalu and K2. She completed the Seven Volcanoes project and became the first Russian woman to complete the 7+7 project (7 Summits + 7 volcanoes).

⠀Irina Zisman. She completed the Seven Summits project, climbing Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, and Ama-Dablam.

⠀Vladimir Belkovich. Completed the Seven Summits project, summiter of Mount Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Manaslu, Lenin Peak, Ama-Dablam.

 Igor Smirnov. He has 6 Summits from 7 of the Seven Summits project, summiter of Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, Shisha-Pangma, Makalu, Ama-Dablam.

 Vasily Kernitsky. Climber of Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, Korzhenevskaya peak, Communism peak, Lenin peak.

 Yuri Lukyanov. 6 Summits out of 7 of the Seven Summits project, Snow Leopard, summiter of Manaslu and Makalu.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Tanzania:

 March 13th. Greetings from Africa! This morning, our Space Team climbed on the summit of Kilimanjaro - Uhuru Peak! It was not easy - the wind and cold, but the views from the top and the fact that we managed to overcome themselves paid off all the difficulties.

At the top, we opened a bottle of champagne and photographed Klim's book (we also did not forget to take pictures of ourselves). Already in the Kosovo camp, we were hit by hail, but this did not overshadow the joy of victory.

Now we have gone down to the Millennium. We wash off and eat off. We're going back to civilization tomorrow.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club from Tanzania:

Greetings from Africa!  From Barranco camp at 3900m on the slopes of Kilimanjaro from the Space Group! Yesterday we made the trek to the Shira Cave camp. On the way, we met two species of African mice, a dozen brazen white-necked ravens and many endemic plants. An evening of song and dance was held in the camp before dinner. Our Tanzanian team sang to us in Swahili, and we answered them with Katusha. Everyone was satisfied.

We had dinner with borscht with garlic and all sorts of pickles, went to bed early, because the next day there was a long walk ahead.

The morning of March 10 greeted us with a stunning sunrise and fragrant Ethiopian coffee (thoughtfully purchased at the transfer in Addis Ababa). We started at about 9 a.m. in parallel with our friends, the "26 Baku commissars" (a large group of Kenyan climbers).

After 3 hours of climbing, a tea point was set up. An hour later we had lunch near the Lava Tower at 4600.

After lunch, we started to descend towards the camp. The rain scared us at first, but it stopped quickly. On the way, we arranged a photo shoot with incredibly beautiful thickets of senecia. We went down to Barranco's camp almost at 6 pm. Tomorrow we will storm the Barranco Wall. Getting ready - sharpening ice axes, checking platforms (joke). In fact, we are taking a shower (partially) and plan to drink some white at dinner.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, а guide of the 7 Summits Club from Tanzania:

Greetings from Africa! From the Machame camp at 3000m on the slopes of Kilimanjaro from the Space Group!  Yesterday we started our ascent of Kilimanjaro. During the first day, we reached the Machame camp at an altitude of 3000. On the way, we got soaked through under a tropical downpour. But by sunset, the downpour had stopped. So we had a chance to admire both the sunset and the stars. Today we go further, at 3900, to the Shira camp.

 Sergey Vasiliev climbed the summit of the highest volcano in South America, Ojos del Salado, and thus completed the Seven Volcanoes program. The ascent took place with the help of a local guide and took place at an accelerated pace, after acclimatization in time on a successful expedition to Sidley in Antarctica. And thus, another our compatriot, a representative of the 7 Summits Club, was added to the company of climbers to all the highest volcanoes of all continents.

We cordially congratulate Sergey on the implementation of the Seven Volcanoes program and look forward to visiting us!

After successfully climbing Sidley in Antarctica, Sergey Vasiliev went to Chile to climb Ojos del Salado and complete the Seven Volcanoes program. He has an individual program with a local guide. In the process of acclimatization, Sergey climbed one of the volcanoes in the region.

 Sergey Vasiliev from Chile: Hello everyone! Today I ascended Pedras Negras Paradas 5950 m as an acclimatization. It turned out to be a volcano! 1000 m of drop! We found a jar in a cairn, signed up. There were 10 people before us in 1985!

On January 4, the team of the 7 Summits Club climbed the highest volcano in Antarctica, Mount Sidley (4265m). The assault exit from the camp (2900) to the camp (2900) took about 13 hours. Four people completed the Seven Volcanoes project with this ascent. Now the list of Russians who climbed all seven volcanoes has grown from 8 to 12 people. There are 43 people in the World, Russia is much ahead of everyone!

The Seven Volcanoes program has been completed: Nikolai Tomchak, Oleg Pipkov, Evgeny Fedorov and the expedition leader Lyudmila Korobeshko. The rest of the ascent participants are 1-2 Summits away from the completion of the Seven Volcanoes program. This is the first Kazakhstani to reach the top of Sidley, Yuri Lukyanov. As well as Sergey Vasiliev, Igor Rebelsky, Andrey Kravchenko and Vladimir Solovyov – all Russians.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide and director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Punta Arenas (Chile):

 January 12. Greetings to all from Punta Arenas from the DDT group (Drink Dream Team) - aka "Empanadas", aka "expedition to Sidley".

Late yesterday evening on January 11, after a one-day delay, we flew from Antarctica to the Mainland - more precisely, to Punta Arenas.

A solemn awarding ceremony was held with diplomas and medals. Each participant of our expedition was awarded two diplomas (for Sidley and for the South Pole) and two medals (a small silver one with Sidley's image and a large one for Antarctic programs).  That's why we celebrated the end of the expedition on a double scale. Joyfully.

Most of the group left today for home. The other part went traveling. Nikolai is going to have a long trip to Patagonia. Sergey and Andrey plan to explore some remote corners of Chile - Easter Island and Pedro de Atacama, and then go to the highest volcano in the world - Ojos Del Salado. We will wait for news from them.

So the adventure continues!

 Portraits of the participants of the Sidley expedition:

Evgeny Fedorov. 7 volcanoes completed the project by climbing Sidley. Now he's staying in Antarctica - he's going with our next group to climb Vinson. Plans to close 7 Summits.

Andrey Kravchenko. Sidley became the fifth volcano out of seven. He goes to Ojos del Salado with our group since January 19th. Plans to close the 7 Volcanoes project. And 7 Summits in the future

Nikolai Tomchak. Sidley completed the 7 Volcanoes project. The best shots from our expedition belong to him.

Igor Rebelsky. Sidley became his 6th volcano. He plans to complete the project of 7 Volcanoes within a year. Ojos remained.

Sergey Vasiliev. Sidley became his 6th volcano. He is currently flying to Ojos and hopes to close 7 Volcanoes. According to the results of the expedition to Sidley, he promises to release Sidley beer.  He introduced the tradition of releasing beer at the end of each expedition to the next volcano. We are waiting for "Sidley"!

Oleg Pipkov. After Sidley he closed the 7 Volcanoes project. We are waiting to see what else he will surprise us with!

Yuri Lukyanov became the first representative of Kazakhstan in Sidley. Before that, with the Last Degree Program he reached the South Pole. He plans to close the 7 Volcanoes project this year. His project also includes to finish 7 Summits (6 out of 7) and 14 eight-thousandthers. In the spring he comes with us to Dhaulagiri.

Vladimir Solovyov is the soul of our team, as well as the heart and engine. He was at the origins of the 7 volcanoes project for part of the current team (he assembled the team on Kilimanjaro 3 years ago). And three years later, part of that team successfully completed the 7 Volcanoes project, and some are still in the process of completion.

 We are waiting for the return of the 7 Summits Club group from Antarctica, which climbed the summit of the highest mountain on the continent. Among the climbers who have visited the top of the Vinson Massif, there is one representative of Chinese Hong Kong, whom we call Bob. His full name is Tsang Long Kit. With our help, this brave young man became the record holder of his native Hong Kong and the whole of China – he became the youngest climber to climb all the highest peaks of all continents. "Seven Peaks" at the age of 20, great job! Good luck, many successes with your life and new heights!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide and director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Antarctica:

January 10th. Greetings from Antarctica, Camp Union Glacier, from the group "Empanadas or Chilean pies" expedition to Sidley!

We are still on Union Glacier at 79 degrees South latitude in Antarctica. Yesterday, January 9th, we had a busy day - both our groups and the whole camp celebrated the birthday of the guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev. In the afternoon we organized a picnic with a walk to the Drake Icefall. Along the way, we were lucky to see the Il-76 take off with a team of our friends, Russian pilots. Then we wandered through the blue labyrinths of the icefall for about an hour, took pictures and at the end arranged a buffet in honor of Artyom. 

In the evening, dinner was already celebrated globally with toasts, cake and special Antarctic cocktails from Chilean chef Patricio, who has already worked with us twice on Everest. The evening ended with a music lovers club - everyone shared their favorite romantic song.

Today, January 10th, according to the plan, we were supposed to fly to Punta Arenas. But the weather turned bad. Moreover, it even snowed - an extremely rare phenomenon in Antarctica (after all, this is the largest desert on our planet).

We really hope to fly tomorrow…