Myasoedov Valery

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico from the Quetzal group! The final news from us, in which I will try to fit the most striking events that have happened to us over the past 24 hours. So, in order, in the form of a kaleidoscope.

1, When we left our partner Roberto's cozy hostel in Zoapan, we left a significant mark behind us. Quetzal's initiative group organized the decoration of the flag of the 7 Summits Club in the living room, in which dozens of flags of different countries and companies were hung, but ours was not there. Now there is!

2. On the way to Puebla, we managed/were lucky enough to see the real eruption of the Popocatepetl volcano. They write about him everywhere now, even the airport was closed in Puebla.

 3. Puebla itself. Two hours is negligible for such a paradise tourist center. You can wander for hours - the unique churches of the 16th century, the church of Santo Domingo of the Dominican Order, in which the altar and decorations are made of bread, countless streets with many souvenir shops. And, of course, we learned how to drink tequila. Only with sangrita now!

4. From Puebla, we returned to Mexico City, stayed in one of the best hotels in the city of Barcelo, in the Premier Suite. It is worth noting separately that according to the program we had the best hotels and haciendas, you can also write a lot about this. Only 20 minutes for accommodation, and for a festive dinner and an award ceremony. Many kind words and wishes, discussion of plans for future programs. I am glad that I was able to share the joy and emotions of climbing with such a great group!

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico! Details of the successful ascent of the Quetzal group to the summit of the Orizaba volcano. In the afternoon, after a short acclimatization trek, we had time to rest and even sleep. In general, the acclimatization was successful, and our attitude was the most determined. The route from the South is not often used by Orizaba. So, our Mexican guide Julio, who goes to the summit twice a week in the season, was here with us for the first time this season. All the other ascents he had were from the North. The route from the South is mainly an ascent along a loose trail and some sections of large stones. In places, the trail is not obvious, which brought its own difficulties. The last 200 meters is a loose slope, covered with small and medium-sized stones, and a rock hazard. We were the first on the route, so there was no chance that someone would drop rocks on us.

 Going out at midnight at night did not affect our well-being in any way. In my opinion, the difference of 9 hours with Mexico is beneficial here. When it's midnight here, it's 9 a.m. in Moscow. The body does not have time to fully adapt to a different time zone, and it is not necessary to struggle with sleep, as in Kilimanjaro, for example. We are at a good pace, we climbed to the top in 7 hours and 15 minutes. The sun was already shining. We took a bunch of photos and videos. To be honest, we were not even very tired. The descent took only 2.5 hours. But, it should be noted that the pre-summit 200 meters on the descent require special concentration and attention, since the slope is quite steep, 25-30 degrees. After a light snack, we moved to Zoapan, where we were served a delicious lunch with wine, and then to Puebla. Sorry if the report turned out to be boring… But I promise you interesting news from Zoapan later. And a photo report from Puebla, where we have an excursion part of the program today.

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Mexico

Greetings from Mexico from the Quetzal group! Yesterday we went up to the camp at 4,500 m from the South. The journey took a little over two hours, it was not boring and very informative to look at the Mexican countryside. March is the end of the Orizaba season, besides us there are two other small groups in the camp, there is enough space for everyone. Yesterday afternoon we walked to the refuge, such a good-quality building with a small kitchen and bunks for 25 people. The mountain is very close, at hand and does not cause any fears from the outside, nevertheless, with whom we communicated, they say that it was not easy. We take note of this, tune in and believe in our success. Today, at midnight local time, we go out to storm. Wish us good luck!

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico from the Quetzal group! Yesterday we had the third day of the program, climbing La Malinche, 4462 m. Why are we Quetzal? This is in honor of a small unusual bird that is found only in Central American countries and is a symbol in many of them. In Guatemala, for example, the country's currency is called the quetzal. And we also call it the firebird.

 We are leaving our cozy hacienda today, we spent two nights here. The hacienda is an estate with many buildings, in the architectural style of colonial times, in which both owners and employees lived.

And the main event of yesterday - we climbed La Malinche. We gained almost 1400 m in 4.5 hours. Everyone successfully coped, admired the beautiful views, and tired, but satisfied with the stage we had passed, returned to our hacienda. At dinner, the appetite was excellent.

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Mexico:

  Greetings from Mexico! A new team of the 7 Summits Club has arrived in Mexico City on the Seven Volcanoes program and go to Orizaba (5636 m), the highest volcano in North America. First day: arrival of the group and acquaintance with Mexico City, the largest city in Central America. And today, on the second day, we visited the famous pyramids of Teotihuacan. They really look mysterious and keep a lot of secrets. But our guide Natalia gave exhaustive explanations to all our questions. Undoubtedly, one of the wonders of the world and the mysteries of mankind.

After the tour, we had a delicious lunch at the national cuisine restaurant. We tasted pulque, a local drink made from fermented agave juice, and everyone was satisfied. After lunch, we moved to the town of Huamantla, closer to La Malinche Park, where tomorrow we are going to acclimatize to the peak of the same name with a height of 4,500 m. Yes... we are housed in an ancient hacienda, an estate from colonial times, which I will tell you about tomorrow. And about the name of the band, which we have almost decided on.

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Greetings from the Aconcagua Base Camp! We continue to introduce you to the infrastructure of the camp. Last year, as a test, double dormitories with beds and heating were installed at the Plaza de Mulas. The testing was successful, and already this season accommodation in such houses is included in the climbing program. Such a house is assigned to the climber for the entire period of stay at the Base Camp, which is 7 days. Seven whole days of comfort at an altitude of 4350 m!

Valery Myasoedov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Greetings from the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp, which is located near Aconcagua! The 2023-24 season is gaining momentum, and tomorrow the first group will come up here, where they will spend most of the program, like all our other groups. That is why we attach great importance to the comfort and convenience of our participants' stay at the Base Camp. Good nutrition and good sleep are the key to a successful ascent. This season we have exclusive accommodation conditions, a separate dining house where we eat and relax in our free time. Take a look at the video for yourself, what it looks like. Really, it's wonderful! There will be other videos telling about the infrastructure of the Base Camp and high-altitude camps. Follow the news!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

 Greetings from Iran! The Persian Cat group climbed to the top of Damavand yesterday afternoon! After a delicious meal from the delicious Narges, after so many kind wishes and parting words, we could not let anyone down. The weather was favorable: light wind, cloudy, not cold at all. The pace was not fast, but comfortable for all the team members. Thus, we all reached the highest point together, at the same time. Damavand puffed for show, but, in fact, this season he was very sympathetic to us. Almost 100% of the participants from the six groups of the 7 Summits Club reached the summit of the highest volcano in Asia. An excellent indicator!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! The program of the Persian Cat group has reached the finish line.  Tomorrow, early in the morning, we go out to storm the summit of Damavand, the forecast is favorable, we believe in an undoubted success. The day before we went up from the Mosque to the camp at 4200 m, it is the Third Camp, and is the assault one. At the Mosque, as always, we talked with Uncle Hassan. He wished us a successful ascent, and his good wishes always come true. We climbed at a good pace, cloudy weather and a slight wind made our ascent comfortable. For dinner, the "torture" of baked chicken and other yummy things continued, but this is how we do it, sorry… Today there was a short acclimatization outing, and after a chic lunch with a salad bar and baked trout, rest and preparation for tomorrow's ascent.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

 Greetings from Tehran! The new group of the 7 Summits Club has begun to realize its goal, climbing Damavand. The band quickly acquired the name "Persian Cat", which we associate ... no, not with what you thought... look at the map of Iran, does it look like a cat with ears? ... Our dear Mariam told us this on a sightseeing tour. After lunch in a traditional Iranian restaurant, we visited the Golestan Palace. For the guides, this is an ordinary visit, we have seen it all many times, but for our dear participants, it is an immersion in the culture and traditions of Persia during the dynasties of several generations of Shahs. The palace is one of the symbols of the Iranian capital, and only after visiting it, you can say that, undoubtedly, it deserves such an attitude. In the evening, a welcome dinner was held in the Milod Tower, in the restaurant of another symbol of Iran. There was a closer acquaintance with each other in an informal setting. And today the acclimatization part of the program begins, we go up to the alpine hotel Tochal.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

 Greetings from Iran! Yesterday, on August 29, the Children of Arbat group made a successful ascent to the top of Damavand! Dry, clear, but windy weather accompanied us throughout the ascent. And on the approach to the summit and the very summit, the wind intensified even more. The decision to leave early at morning was the right one. In clear weather, there was a magnificent panorama of the valley at the foot of Damavand, breathtaking! Special mention should be made of our participant Natalia, who at the age of 17 walks well up and feels confident on the descent. Now we are already in Tehran, enjoying a rest, a gala dinner and an award ceremony in the evening, and before it a visit to the hammam with a restorative massage. Deserved it!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! The Children of Arbat group has reached the final stage of the Damavand climbing program. We are going to storm early tomorrow morning.  The weather is windy, especially the wind increases by the middle of the day, so we are planning a slightly earlier start than usual. The day before, before climbing from the Mosque to the camp at 4,200 m, we interviewed a local aksakal, the respected Uncle Hassan. He always helps us with the transfer from Larijan to the Mosque in his old jeep, and at 65 he radiates inexhaustible optimism. Then, at a good pace, we went up to the camp and settled in the best "apartments".  Then the culinary masterpieces from our chef Marjon began, which we never stop marveling at: baked chicken, stuffed fish, salad bar... The participants unanimously celebrate the excellent service on the mountain from our partners. After such care and such an organization, tomorrow we have no right to let anyone down.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

 Greetings from Iran! The Children of Arbat group continued the acclimatization program on the third day, because altitude drop and rest are also part of acclimatization, aren't it? In the morning we left the cozy Tochal Hotel and took a cable car down from 3500 m to 1700 m to hot Tehran. Then we headed towards Damavand and on the way stopped for lunch at the Adam and Eve restaurant, which has become everyone's favorite. About what delicious kebabs and kebabs there are, it's already time to write a laudatory ode to one of the local poets. Details in the video. Then there was obtaining permits at the House of the Iranian Mountaineering Federation in Polur, a traditional photo against the background of the Damavand map and a brief introduction to the climbing routes, of which there are as many as 16. The most popular is the route from the south, which we always go. Our day trip to Larijan ended, there was time to plunge into the hot springs, and lie in the hotel for a couple of hours, and in the evening for dinner again kebabs of 5 types. The rested and strengthened, "Children of Arbat" are eager to fight, and tomorrow they will have the opportunity to prove themselves - we climb to the camp at 4200 m.

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! On the second day, the "Children of Arbat" began the acclimatization part of the program. Without fuss and haste, "yavosh-yavosh", as they say here, we went up by cable car to the alpine hotel "Tochal" at an altitude of 3500 m. They passed a mandatory medical examination and settled in. We had lunch with delicious chicken kebab, let's say, as an introduction to the basics of Iranian cuisine, where a wide variety of kebabs prevail. After lunch, we rested, went for a walk to the summit of Tochal. Again, slowly, at a calm pace, we went to the top, spent half an hour there, and slightly tired, but satisfied, returned to the hotel. I think that a hot shower and a soft bed at 3500 m will make our acclimatization even more comfortable. Tomorrow we will move to Larijan, a village with hot springs and authentic kebab.

 "Greetings from the Base Camp in Moskvin's Glade, which is located in distant Tajikistan! We are already warm and safe, and on August 3 we stood at Summit of the Peak of Communism (7495 m) — the highest point of the Soviet Union!

The ascent was not easy: the Base Camp - Summit - Base Camp route takes 8-9 days, but successful acclimatization, competent planning, and most importantly, the weather factor were on our side. It was the right decision to unite with other groups on the day of the assault, snow this year is waist-deep almost all over the route, a small group cannot overcome such an obstacle.

19 people stormed out of Camp 4 under Dushanbe Peak at an altitude of 7000 m. Up to 7400 m we walked all together, and then our group, having passed the most difficult section first, reached the Crest and at 12.40 (local time) were the first to reach Summit!

The panorama from the Roof of the World, as the Pamirs are called, was amazing! Imagine, our 8000 Club flag didn't even need to be stretched, it was almost calm... This doesn't happen very often.

There was no limit to the delight and emotions of our Anastasia Panfilova!  She managed to make both peaks this season: the Peak of Korzhenevskaya and the Peak of Communism. The photos turned out great, for the first time I decided to number them so that our friends of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club could appreciate the beauty of each moment"

Guide Valery Myasoedov

 At the Peak of Communism on August 3

 Selfies on top

 The Passage of the Summit Ridge. Requires maximum concentration

 Descent from the Summit Ridge. The most dangerous place

 The beginning of the descent from the peak, 7495 m

 Exit to the Ridge, 7400 m

 Assault camp under the Peak of Dushanbe, 7000 m

 At the Base Camp, a few minutes after returning. Happy climbers

 Peak of Communism from the crest of Korzhenevskaya Peak

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan:

Greetings from Tajikistan! Sorry for the long forced silence, there was a problem with the Internet in a remote mountainous area on Moskvin's Glade. It's time to call our group "In search of Wi-Fi". During this time, we completed the acclimatization program and on July 22 we climbed the Peak of Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m. Acclimatization went according to plan, the day of the assault was chosen correctly, almost the entire group successfully reached the top. Unfortunately, one participant felt unwell in the third camp at 6300 m and nobly refused the assault, saying that he would not prevent the main group from reaching the top. The first half of the day delighted us with fantastic landscapes at the Peak of Communism and the entire ridge route of Korzhenevskaya Peak. And in the afternoon, on the contrary, it was covered with clouds, which made it easier for us to descend. The team showed indomitable character and willpower. Together with six other climbers, we were practically the first commercial group of this season on the summit that day. Before us, only a team of guides and Aksai Travel porters came to the top. As communication improves, there will also be a video as a separate block. In the meantime, we are happy and enjoying our rest at the Base Camp.

Super-Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan:

Greetings from Tajikistan! The first group in the history of the 8000 Club gathered in Dushanbe to pave the way to one of the most popular summits of the Soviet Union, Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m and Peak Communism, 7495 m, now called Ismoil Somoni Peak. The city greeted us with an unbearable heat of +39, even the Tehran heat seemed cooler. In this program, the helicopter drop-off to Moskvin's Glade, to the Base Camp for both Summits, occurs several times a season, with enviable irregularity.  Therefore, we can say that we were lucky, right now, at night, we are heading to the village of Jirgital, located 200 km from Dushanbe, and early in the morning we fly to the Base Camp.

A welcome dinner was held at the Iranian cuisine restaurant (again an association with Tehran!), next to the hotel. Delicious, satisfying and in huge quantities, we took the uneaten with us to lunch boxes, it will come in handy on the road! We also managed to congratulate our dear Olga, the manager of Aksai Travel, on her birthday. The next report, I hope, will be written already from the Base Camp on Moskvin's Glade, 4200 m.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tanzania:

With the first rays of the sun at the top - it becomes a tradition of our groups on Kilimanjaro. Today, the group "How to get to the library" almost in full went to the summit. Unfortunately, one participant got off due to indisposition at 5500 m. The weather did us a favor for the first three rainy days - it was dry and cold, the trail was in perfect condition. We ascended at a good pace and also descended to the Kosovo camp also at a good pace. Now we are already at the Millennium Camp.  Tomorrow there will be a descent to the Umbva gate and the ceremonial part of the program.

Valery Myasoedov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Tanzania: The fourth day.  Crossing to the Karanga camp and passing the Barranco Wall. The wall looks like a serious obstacle from the outside, but our Tanzanian guides know every pebble on the trail, so climbing the wall did not cause problems. But he created many opportunities for beautiful photos. By the way, in the morning, the main guide Victor introduced us to the entire escort team - guides, kitchen workers, porters, 43 people! There were traditional songs and dances and a lot of emotions. The day turned out just great, the first day without rain, even the poncho was not taken out. We came to Karanga for lunch, there was time to relax before dinner and play Perudo. I do not know a single person who would not be captured by the game, our group is no exception. The mountain is already very close, in the morning, when the clouds are below us, it can be seen in the palm of your hand. Today, the climb to the Kosovo assault camp at 4800 m.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tanzania:

May 3. The third day of the program is the longest move.  Very important in terms of acclimatization with a stop at the Lava Tower, 4600 m, where they prepared a great lunch for us. The weather again presented a test, it was quite comfortable to get to the Lava Tower, it rained heavily on the descent to Barranco camp, which did not stop until the camp itself. The optimism and attitude of the group is admirable. Today, the passage to the Karanga camp, with the passage of the Barranco wall, is short in time, so there will be more time for rest and recovery in the Karanga camp.