7 Summits Club company news

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
There is no Internet here, neither satellite nor mobile. The whole sky is overcast. It's raining. Luda and I spent a night in Camp 2. And today, under the roar of avalanches and the howling of blizzards, we were able to descend to the base camp of Broad Peak. Today is July 13th. Since July 17th, everyone here expects good weather. I have a different opinion. The weather in Pakistan this year is not encouraging. There are still no fixed ropes to the top of Broad Peak. And on K2 in general, ropes were hung only up to camp 3.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov continued acclimatization already on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. The participants and guides first moved by cable car the shelter National Park, then continued their preparations for the ascent. In the afternoon, they held snow and ice classes, where they mastered the skills of self-rarrest with an ice pick and moving in various ways in crampons. Tomorrow everyone goes to the Pastukhov Rocks.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings from the group "All on 215" from the Lenin Peak base camp! Today there was a sunny but extremely windy day! During a walk to the crest of Petrovsky Peak, everyone was blown away! But this did not prevent us from climbing to a height of 4018 meters, admiring the still surviving hanging glaciers and taking beautiful photos. For tomorrow, the Internet does not draw rosy weather, but we will move to the first camp! Soon there will be no normal communication...

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "All on 215"!  We are here and we are happy!  Along the way, we admired marmots carrying their mortal carcasses into their burrows... We saw the northern slope of the mountain, were pleasantly stunned by the views and went to dinner.  We are well placed in comfortable large tents, picked up the missing equipment and smoothly depart... Not what you thought, let's go to rest! It's windy in the camp. Tomorrow, according to the plan, an acclimatization rotation to the crest of Petrovsky Peak at 4000.

Now Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko are on acclimatization rotation on the slopes of Broad Peak.  We bring to your attention photos from trekking to the base camp.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the group "Beautiful"!  Our acclimatization began on the slopes of Cheget. The views are not very good today, the mountains are partially covered, but the weather is good. It's a little colder now, apparently a new cyclone has come to us. And otherwise, everything is fine - we continue the program further.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the city of Osh! Our program of climbing Lenin Peak begins! Today the participants arrived, and before lunch they were recovering from a sleepless night on the plane. We checked our equipment, got acquainted with the peculiarities of the local mentality, and went to the pool! Then there was dinner, we celebrated the meeting! Tomorrow we are scheduled to move to the base camp at an altitude of 3600 meters.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region from the group "Helen and the bears". Today we climbed the Western peak of Elbrus, the highest point of Russia and Europe. We were very lucky with the weather, the ascent took place in clear and calm weather. From the top, we saw views of the entire Main Caucasian Ridge and the surroundings of Elbrus. Now we are already in a hotel in Terskol Village, and we are enjoying the benefits of civilization that are not available in the assault camp.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, from Pakistan:
We came to the base camp of expeditions on Broad Peak. This is already good news. The bad news is that so far not a single person has climbed Broad Peak. Today, Furtenbach's team has already gone home after an summit attempt. It ended a little above Camp 3 due to the large amount of snow and no fixed ropes.
It looks like Lyuda and I came just in time. Everything is just beginning.... By the way, the food here is excellent. And the camp is very comfortable.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Greetings from Pakistan from Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko! Have you lost us? We were out of touch for 4 days. The satellite failed. And the local connection appeared only on July 7, in Concordia. So, from July 4 to July 7, we moved from Ascole (a village at 3050) to Concordia (a camp at 4500 with a view of K2 and other eight-thousandths). On the way we spent the night in the camps of Jola, Payu, Urdukas. The last two crossings were the longest - 9-10 hours on the Baltoro glacier. But the beauty is indescribable! Tomorrow we plan to make a short trip to the base camp of Broad Peak. Then - rest and acclimatisation rotation on Broad Peak.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Alexander Dorojukov, Dmitry Semenov and Eugene Fedyunin reached the Western Peak of Elbrus massif today. The ascent took place in perfect weather conditions. The participants were able to admire the beautiful panorama of the Caucasus Mountains. The state of the route can also be called ideal. Welcome to the Caucasus!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region from the group "Helen and the bears". Today, as planned, we made an acclimatization rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. The weather was pleasant, it was sunny and clear, so we were able to see most of the Main Caucasian Ridge, such Summits as: Dykhtau, Mizhirgi, Shkhara, Ushba, Shtavler. We hope that the same weather will be on the ascent, and we will be able to see Kazbek and other famous Summits of the Caucasus. Tomorrow we plan to rest and prepare for the ascent.

Alexander Dorozhukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
Greetings from the Iskorka group! Today our cheerful team slowly but surely climbed under the Rocks of Pastukhov. The weather was gorgeous: views, mountains, snow. We had a great walk. Our acclimatization is over, tomorrow is a day of rest and then climb the summit.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region from the group "Helen and the bears". The new group has started a program of acclimatization and preparation for climbing Elbrus. Today, as part of the program, we climbed to the first cable car station on the slopes of Cheget. The weather pleased us today, it was quite warm, the mountain grass is blooming. In the Ai cafe, we rested after climbing, drank mountain tea with hychins, then returned to the hotel, where we rested and had lunch. In the afternoon we visited the rental, where we took the necessary equipment for climbing. Tomorrow we will climb to the refuge National Park, where we will continue to acclimatize to the ascent.

Today two teams of the 7 Summits Club with guides Alexander Dorojukov and Dmitry Semenov climbed the slopes of Elbrus. The groups settled in comfortable cabins of the National Park Refuge. Then, according to the plan, they went to the area 11 of Priyut Eleven (height about 4100m). There, the groups conducted snow and ice training, learned how to use an ice axe, walk in crampons and with a rope. The weather is good, everyone's condition is excellent, they continue to prepare for Elbrus Climb.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
Greetings to all from the Elbrus region from the Iskorka group! Our acclimatization rotation program has begun. Today we went to the Cheget to the Ai cafe. The views are beautiful, the weather was fine. The condition of the participants is excellent, we continue to work.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Exploration expedition on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Day 3. The third of July. Hurray! The documents are finally ready. In the morning we left Shigar in the direction of Ascole. On the way, we slowed down in almost every village - our driver greeted his friends and proudly showed that he was carrying foreign tourists. Two hours later we stopped to buy chickens. For the first time we saw how live chickens are put on the scales and discuss weight and prices for a long time, and chickens calmly flaunt on the scales. Around lunch, we had a snack with traditional food of the Baltu peoples - rice, lentils, vegetables and meat - essentially the same Nepalese dalbat. In general, the Baltu, Sherpa and Tibetan peoples are very close, languages and traditions are similar.
About two o'clock we stopped, before reaching Ascole a couple of kilometers - the road was washed out here. We had to move things to other Jeeps. We walked a little bit to Ascole - the views are gorgeous! The village is very picturesque, with sharp snow peaks all around.
This is the last major settlement on our way. There will probably be no further communication until the very BC - day 4-5. See you soon! Don't lose us!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan.  Day 1. The first of July. At 4 a.m. we landed in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan, where we were warmly welcomed by one of the brothers Saed - Anwar. A few cups of Pakistani tea (mixed tea with milk and cardamom), a few photos for memory, and we are already flying further to Skardu (2450), a town in Baltistan, from where expeditions to the Karakoram mountains begin.

It's also hot here - about +25-30 (well, at least not +45, as in Islamabad). The road from the airport is blocked by strikers, we are going to detour. Half an hour later we arrive at the Summit Hotel in Skardu, give the documents to the military to obtain permits and fall asleep.

We wake up around 15.00, have a snack with mixed fried rice, which we have loved since Tibet, and go to buy gas and other small things. However, Friday evening is a Muslim day off - many shops close early. Therefore, we just decide to relax and go to the barber shop to clean up. Sasha shaves, I take pictures, five more locals just sit next to each other and talk to the hairdresser and us. The owner of our hotel brought us to the barbershop. On the way, he told me that three years ago in the winter, a Russian expedition to K2 stopped with him (apparently, it was with Artem Brown).

A short walk before going to bed - through the noisy streets of Skardu, very close to the noise of the Indus water ... Tomorrow, if the documents from the military are ready, we will go to Ascole. Or we'll wait here for another day.

P.S. We met Nims on the way to Pakistan. First on the poster, and then in person.  We agreed to meet again in a week under K2 and Broad Peak.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "M&M's". Today we climbed the Western peak of Elbrus.  As it has already become a tradition for this season's weather, the forecast did not come true.   By the time we reached the top, clouds covered Elbrus.  On the ascent, I had to take the initiative to improve the trail from the saddle to the top.  On the way back, we were forced to focus on the hangers that marked the trail, as we descended in the "milk". But all these weather difficulties only consolidated our success and confidence in the abilities of our beautiful participants: Marina Sviridova and Marina Muravyeva. We wish them to continue their chosen course. The group's guide is Andrey Berezin.

News of the Mountain Fever project – traveling with local guides.   Guests from Russia, participants of the 7 Summits Club program made a fantastic ascent to Demavend (the highest volcano in Asia from the 7 Volcanoes project). This trip was one of the most wonderful events in their lives! Everything was fine, thanks to the well-coordinated work of the local team. Guide Hossein is a great professional and clever, thanks to his care, the ascent was as comfortable and interesting as possible. Thanks to Maryam, who discovered for guests a lot of the country's culture, introduced them to Tehran and its residents. See you again in the mountains!