7 Summits Club company news

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

In the afternoon we arrived from Namche Bazaar. Looking at the forecast. The weather will be deteriorating since the 18th. We decided to leave immediately. It's 23:00 now. In 2 hours we get up and at 3:00 our team goes climbing.  The plan is as follows: on the 16th, climb to Camp 4 at 7900m and start for the summit at night. On the 17th in the morning we should be at the top.

Wish us luck! The connection will be episodic.

13 camp 1

14 camp 2

15 camp 3

16 camp 4

17 summit and descent to camp 2.

Vladimir Nosov, team member: Hello everyone! There is the summit! Our team has climbed the highest volcano in Africa, Kilimanjaro (5895 m). On May 7, 2022, the team stood on the roof of Africa in full force.

This morning Lakpa Sherpa climbed on the top of Mount Everest and became the first woman to do it for the 10th time!  She simply has no competitors.  Lakpa is our old friend, a participant of several of our expeditions. She is the sister of our sirdar, the representative of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal Mingma Gelu.  However, in expeditions Lakpa always works according to its own program. This is especially true of the current one, in which she is accompanied by a small film crew from the USA. Recently, Lakpa managed to "break through the wall", that is, to get to American sponsors. So now it will be necessary to report.

 By the way, Lakpa plans to climb K2 in the summer to "enter the history of mountaineering," as she claims. And there, I think, it will be necessary to add the "Seven summits". We will wait on Elbrus!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "May bugs Jazira". Today, according to the plan, we had an rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. Yesterday, a new cyclone came to Elbrus, which promises to leave tomorrow evening. Due to the weather conditions, we reached the height of 4400 meters in 4 hours (the top point of the rock ridges), then the plateau begins, which is blown by a strong westerly wind. We decided to go down to the refuge, where a delicious hot lunch was already waiting for us.  Tomorrow we have a rest day, we will recuperate before the assault, which is scheduled for Friday.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

What the Everest 2022 expedition has been doing for the last three days?  While Russia is celebrating May 9, we decided to rest and descended to Namche Bazaar at an altitude of 3600 m. Closer to oxygen. And in order not to get tired, we used helicopters. Upon arrival in Namche, oxygen literally fell on us. At first I slept for 24 hours. And I didn't want to wake up. 

But it's dangerous. I had to get up and go eat. Then there was a bar, billiards, beer....  The usual life of climbers on vacation in Namche Bazaar. Arrival of friends and relatives. Haircut, shaving, sauna and massage. Coffee, croissants, momos and cakes. Then shops, shops, pharmacies, shops. And all this in 2 days. All – we must stop. Tomorrow at 11:00 we fly to BC. The rest is over.

 The forecast changes every day. Today, the first teams of climbers spend the night at the 8000 m assault camp. And at night they go to the assault. According to the forecast, the wind is strong. We think we will be at the summit on May 18 or 19.

Olga Startseva, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Namaste! Big greetings from Nepal to everyone! The VIP trekking group to the Everest BL or "11 Friends of Nepal" has successfully completed the program. All the participants reached the Base Camp, where we were warmly welcomed. We were shown how the mountaineering weekdays of the expedition of the participants of the ascent of Mount Everest pass and treated to a delicious lunch. Most of the group went to the top of Kala Patar and met the dawn with a view of Mount Everest, despite two difficult days of walking and ascetic conditions of accommodation in a lodge in Gorak Shep. As a team, we are proud of the 12-year-old member of our group - Savva Verkhovsky, who successfully completed the entire program and showed perseverance, courage and courage, and also received his first mountain experience at a height of 5643 m.

The whole group returned to Kathmandu by helicopter, admiring the views of summits, glaciers, mountain villages and Himalayan forests along the way.

Now we are resting in Kathmandu, recuperating and warming up in the sun. Part of the team is leaving in the near future, the rest of the participants are visiting the sights of Kathmandu and walking around the city.

Guides: Maria Besogonova and Olga Startseva.

The main part of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club descended by helicopter to Namche Bazaar. The team will rest presumably for 4 days to fully recuperate before attempting to storm Everest.

 Olga Rumyantseva: Whoosh. And we are in Namche Bazaar. The air is thick and warm here. And trees grow.

Andrey Berezin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The new group of the 7 Summits Club began to acclimatize on the slopes of Cheget.  Today we went to the Ai cafe, where we ate delicious hychines with sea buckthorn tea. The route in places passed through snowfields, winter reluctantly gives way from the slopes of the mountains. Tomorrow we are going up to the refuge National Park, where we will prepare for the ascent of Elbrus.  The group's guide is Andrey Berezin.

Guide Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the group "Namaste Shalom Aleikum", going on the program "Trekking to the Everest Base Camp"! We went to the Everest base camp today. We met our Everest team, which is preparing to climb to the roof of the World.

 Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region.  Today, the first group the 7 Summits Club of this season climbed the Western peak of Elbrus. Snow on the slopes in places was above the knees.  According to the forecast, heavy clouds were expected in the first half of the day, but the forecast did not come true and views of the surrounding area opened from the top.  Guides of the Berezin&Semenov.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the group "Touching Everest"! It is all over, almost, except for a small nuance – the participants are waiting for a helicopter to fly to Kathmandu. And the helicopter is waiting for good weather, and the weather is not promised today. Yesterday we descended from the second high-altitude camp to the base camp without much difficulty. The burning sun and accumulated fatigue made it a little difficult to enjoy a walk along the majestic. And today all people are already at a low start towards big cities. Except for the guide, who goes up again at night.

The main team of the 7 Summits Everest-22 Club climbed to Camp-1. The second acclimatization rotation has begun.

Olga Rumyantseva: Today we got up at two o'clock in the morning and again climbed into the first camp through the Khumbu icefall. Well, what? We did it. But for a while there was such a terrible heat that everyone swam. Therefore, the second icefall cross turned out to be physically not easier, but even more difficult. Tomorrow we will go to the second camp.

Some photos from Mingma Gelu

Three groups of the 7 Summits Club have already ascended to the village of Deboche. Two of them are guided by the guides of the 7 Summits Club. Olga Startseva and Maria Besogonova work with VIP group. Aleksandr Dorojukov heads the Namaste Shalom Aleikum group. And the fastest is the group that was assembled by the summiter of Mount Everest last year, Eduard Kubatov from Kyrgyzstan. It included his friends from Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.

 Andrey Berezin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of Elbrus!  “Kaliningrad-Kamchatka” Group continues acclimatization on Elbrus. Today, according to the plan, we had an ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks.  May Elbrus is harsh, and the weather was unfavorable, so we did not reach the goal, but only up to an altitude of 4400 meters. There, to consolidate high-altitude acclimatization, we spent about an hour drinking tea, eating sweets, taking pictures and baiting stories.  Tomorrow we have a day of rest and preparation for the ascent.  Guides Berezin & Semenov.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the group "Touching Everest"! We touched Everest very well today. It was both cold and hot. The team admitted that it was not easy, but very informative. We got a great experience for future ascents. Tried additional oxygen. All the participants have already gone down to the camp-2, tomorrow morning we are going down to the base camp.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Over the past two days, the group "Touching Everest" has climbed from the base camp to the second high-altitude camp at an altitude of 6400m. Everyone passed the baptism of the Khumbu icefall steadfastly, they were almost not afraid. The move from the first high-altitude camp to the second was planned with the support of additional oxygen, but the group decided to test themselves and pass it without doping. We coped perfectly, although in the first part of the route strong gusts of wind were a little disturbing. Tonight, the participants will have the opportunity to restore their strength with oxygen before tomorrow's decisive exit to 7100 m.

Andrey Berezin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region.  The first of new season group of the 7 Summits Club has started active acclimatization on the slopes of Cheget.  Today we went up to the Ai cafe. Snow gradually melts from the slopes of Cheget, but in places the trail passes through snowfields.  In the afternoon we visited the rental, where we got the necessary equipment.  Now we are preparing for tomorrow's exit.  Tomorrow we will move to the shelter National Park, altitude 3900 m. There we will continue acclimatization and preparation for the ascent.

Olga Rumyantseva works as a mountain guide in 7 Summits Club. However, in this expedition she is just a participant. After the first acclimatization rotation, she sent a large report, available in Russian. And 46 photos have been added to the report – a complete description of the Khumbu icefall in its current state.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the Namaste Shalom Aleikum group going to the Everest Base Camp! Today we had an anxious day. We were waiting for the weather for the flight to Lukla. we were worried and worried, and in the end we flew out. Then, according to the program, we moved to the village of Phaking. Along the way, we had to meet well-known suspension bridges and, of course, beautiful views.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, leader of the Everest expedition, from Nepal:

Late yesterday, until 12 o'clock at night, our team was returning from camp 2 6400m to the Base Camp. Therefore, it was not possible to congratulate on May 1 and send a report. All well done, everyone got to the place. It was snowing all day and even photos were difficult to take. Today, May 2, we wash, sleep, go for a massage. We eat the best mutton in BC from our Chef. By the way, a Russian guy named Sergey woke me up in the morning. He bought my book "The Height-Altitude Gene". And he brought it to the Base Camp, asked me to sign it. Such are our events.

We are resting until May 5th. Early on May 5, into battle again, with the aim of climbing to Camp 7300m.