Korobeshko Luda

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 8. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altittude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Happy holiday to all - the day of family, love and fidelity! We continue to have the heaviest snowfalls. Today the snow is even stronger than yesterday. And continues to sweep.

For breakfast, to somehow cheer up, I took out  the last pack of coffee. This is a big deficit in Pakistan. We drank in the morning and cheered up. We hope that in a couple of days our trekking group led by Vitya Volodin and Dasha Sivova will come to us and bring us coffee. We are very worried about the friends - since we have such severe snowfalls here, they should now be heavily watered with rain at the crossings, plus the rivers could overflow their banks… But, hopefully, they will be able to get to us.

We were informed today that the Gondogoro La Pass has been closed for about a week. And there are a lot of groups in Concordia waiting for it to be opened. We hope that in a couple of days the snowfall will stop.

Today, after breakfast, our doctor Andrey Selivanov (he is also an instructor-guide) conducted rescue work classes in the mountains with improvised means. Very informative, interesting and useful. We also remembered some of the nodes and beat the situation, what to do in case of loss of equipment when moving along the fixed ropes.

There was a rumor that our tents in Camp 1 were blown away by the wind... Eh, the weather would have been nice sooner. Then we will go up to the upper camps and restore order.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 7. All salams from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today was Groundhog Day. It snowed all night again and continued to fall all day. In the morning after breakfast we sat and composed poems about our base camp. For lunch, our chefs pleased us with pizza and PAKORA, a national Pakistani dish of potatoes, boiled eggs and onions.

After lunch, a quiet hour was arranged. And before dinner, guests came to us - Garrett Madison (the leader of Madison Expedition), two Frenchmen from Broad Peak (one of them has already climbed to almost 8000 on Broad - there are no fixed ropes yet) and our friend, who is now going to K2 with Nims. There is nothing special - very heavy snowfalls - it is impossible to go anywhere. So they go to visit each other.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 6. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

Yesterday we came very tired after going to C1, so we slept without hind legs. Woke up covered with snow, barely dug out. The snow continued until lunch. Then it stopped a little and avalanches began to descend from K2 and Broad Peak. In the half hour that the snow stopped, the most hardened managed to wash in the shower.

In the morning, before breakfast, Kotlyar and I did exercises and brewed the last half-pack of coffee - we have to pamper ourselves with something. We enjoyed a cup of coffee with croissants. Instead of French croissants, we have Pakistani azoki.

Before lunch, we gave interviews on the results of yesterday's release. The RD studio team does not let you relax - they constantly take everything off. Today, even my morning yoga was filmed with a hidden camera. They also plan to take pictures of what each participant does in his free time in his tent. And how Louis (a high-altitude operator) draws pictures at an altitude of 5000.  By the way, Louis is not only an operator, but also a cool climber. He climbed K2 and other 8000. He worked a lot with Carlos Soria as a partner and high-altitude operator.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 4 and 5th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Yesterday we went to acclimatization in ABC. We walked briskly through the icefall 2 hours from Base camp. We ate and went to bed early.

It started snowing immediately in the evening. By midnight, we were specifically swept up. At 3 we woke up, had breakfast and at 4 in the morning went up in a complete blizzard. With each rope, the slope increased. I had to trail - 10-15 cm of fresh snow fell. Small avalanches were coming down the slope. After 8 a.m. we got out to Camp 1 at an altitude of 6100. There are 6-7 tents stuck here with difficulty. The wind increased almost to a hurricane. So we gratefully stumbled into the empty tents that the Sherpas allowed us to enter. We sat for half an hour, drank tea. We discussed the further ascent to Camp 2. To which our Sherpas shouted with one voice that it was extremely dangerous and it was necessary to go down while the force and the weather allowed.

As a result, we were dumped down into the ABC and then into the Base Camp. The snow never stopped. More precisely, it ended only on the approaches to the base. Here a snowman named Genka was waiting for us for lunch, carefully sculpted by our film crew to our delight.

Tomorrow and the day after tomorrow we rest.

Photos by Arno Ter-Saakov

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

 3 July. Salam to all from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gen - 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today we had a puja - the consecration of the base  camp and the expedition. We held a joint puja with our friends from the 8K company. A stupa with decorations stood directly opposite K2, which was almost completely opened at that time. At the end of the ceremony, we were tied with kats - white scarves, and Abramov, as the leader, was solemnly put on a Pakistani hat on his head. And they gave us something that almost all the participants of the expedition dreamed about, something that is not in Pakistan, but we really want it in the mountains and in the heat - consecrated beer!!!

After the puja, the film crew and I went to our kitchen to prepare a festive dinner. Kristina made cod liver salad, Ivan made mayonnaise, and I made borscht. The dinner turned out to be quite festive - we also added puja beer and dried fish brought from Russia to the table.

Tomorrow we go up for a rotation with an overnight stay. According to the plan - overnight in ABC (5300m), and then ascent to C1 (5500m) and above, then descent to the base camp.

Fotos of Arno Ter-Saakov

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 2. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today, the most conscious participants of our expedition did exercises in the morning, and the film crew recorded all this. It should be noted that sometimes operators break into tents early in the morning and take pictures of how the morning of climbers passes at an altitude of 5000 (okay, not quite like that - they usually knock:)

After breakfast, we all went to ice classes - we refreshed the technique of movement on fixed ropes and descents. Even the operators finally decided to get through! Sasha Kubasov has done this before on Everest, but it was Ivan Vasiliev's debut. And he did a great job.

Before the start of classes, the President of the FAR of Moscow Dmitry Moskalev gave a lecture on the correct technique of movement on fixed ropes. Then the practice began.

Everyone climbed so intensely that at the end of the lessons Sergey Bogomolov's crampons broke down. It's good that there are spare ones. By the way, Sergey is very popular here. Participants from other expeditions approach him and ask for a joint photo.  They ask with a gasp: "Are you the same Russian who has one eight-thousander left to 14?". In the evenings, our entire team gathers around Sergei and enjoys listening to his stories about various cases in the mountains from his extensive biography.

The second most popular in BC K2 is our doctor. Participants from other expeditions began to come to him. After all, Andrei Selivanov is the only doctor in the entire base camp. Today, our entire team was happy to eat what grateful patients brought to the doc. We realized that if anything happens, the doc will feed us!

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

 Morning exercise, breakfast at 7 o'clock. And at 8.30 we went to acclimatization in ABC (altitude 5300). The weather has worsened. The icefall took place in a blizzard. But when we came out to ABC, the sun also came out. We were already descending in good weather. There was a pleasant surprise waiting for us at the camp - even a few: first compote, and then pizza and a salad of fresh vegetables. And for a snack - dried roach. Here you begin to appreciate the little things. During the day, avalanches were rumbling coming from Broad Peak.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 30. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 “High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today we finally got enough sleep! Firstly, we slept on beds with blankets. Secondly, breakfast was already at 8.00 and there was no need to pack! After breakfast, we had a shower. And after lunch - an afternoon nap.

Tomorrow we make the first acclimatization rotation - to ABC at 5300 and return to BC.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

 June 29. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today is a significant day - we finally came to the K2 Base Camp!!!

It was snowing and raining all night at Camp Concordia. We also went out in the snow. On the road alternately - then snow, then rain, then a little sun. On the approaches to the BC, the majestic K2 finally emerged from the clouds. However, not for long. But it impressed us very much.

By lunchtime we came to the place of BC. We put on a team uniform, raised the flag and solemnly entered the camp. Here we were joyfully greeted by a team of our Sherpas led by Alex Abramov.We comfortably accommodated in single tents with beds (!). Had lunch. Now we rest. Snowfall is forecast for the next 2-3 days. We will rest and acclimatize at the Base Camp.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Fotos by Arno Ter Saakovs

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 28.  All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  Today we spent the first night on the glacier in the Goro-2 camp at an altitude of 4200. It was cold. But the first time we got enough sleep - breakfast was scheduled as early as 7.30. Woke up, opened the tents and gasped - such beauty around: K1 or Masherbrum, just a little short of 8000 - few people have been to its top; Muztag Tower Summits, ahead of the gorge - the Steep pyramid of Gasherbrum IV, on the edges of the two-horned Mitre and Marble Peak…

The trek to the Concordia camp today was quite simple - we reached it in 5 hours. Here Broad Peak has already opened in all its glory. But K2 is still hiding in the clouds.

Tomorrow we go to base camp K2.

I want to mention the friends from the RD studio team. They not only keep up with the whole group -  but also manage to shoot on the road, running ahead of the group. And after coming to the camp, when everyone is resting, they work - they shoot interviews.

The head of the expedition to K2 Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Wow, what a day we had today - tin!!!  We got up before 4 am. We had breakfast at 4.30 and left at 5. An hour later we reached the famous Baltoro glacier and started moving along it. From the good - these are stunning views, especially of the Trango Towers. And again Broad Peak flashed in the distance. From not very good - we walked almost 10 hours to the Urdukas camp. It's hot again, but the clouds have already started to come and even a little rain has fallen.

The biggest impression of the day is crossing the river. Barefoot, almost waist-deep in icy water - almost frostbitten our feet. But everyone is alive and well. Although one of the participants received a minor knee injury - a few scratches - Andrey quickly healed.

By the way, our doctor Andrey is in great demand - especially among local guys. Yesterday, a delegation of 15 porters came to him - everyone asked them to be treated. Andrey is kind - he does not refuse anyone.

The walk will be easier tomorrow. We'll rest there.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 25. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition on K2 "High-Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today we got up with the roosters again - at 4.30. We had breakfast at 5 in the morning. And we decided to "cheat" a little - we drove up 5 km by car. The remaining 15 honestly walked. Again in the heat, but the places are beautiful - along the river along the sand at first, then along the rocky paths. We saw Broad Peak and K2 in the distance. By lunchtime we reached the Paiju camp at 3400 in a small green grove - hooray - shade!!   Tomorrow will be the longest part of our trekking.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

 June 24. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! We got up early today - at 4.30, because at 5.30 we already had breakfast, and at 6.00 we went out on the trail to K2! In 3 hours we reached the green oasis - Korofon camp along a wide rocky gorge. They had lunch there. Then we continued on our way to the final goal of our today's transition - the Jola camp (3200).

We found ourselves in the camp at noon - the heat is terrible. So we hide in tents until the evening. And the bravest swim in the mountain river Braldu, near which our camp is located.

Tomorrow we have an even longer trek - about 20km to the Paju camp - it's about 7-8 hours on rocky trails and with crossings over numerous rivers.

The head of the expedition to K2 Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 23. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Hurray! We have finally started moving towards our goal - K2. Early in the morning at 5 a.m. we had breakfast and at 6 a.m. we got on jeeps and moved to Ascole. The road turned out to be difficult and interesting - after an hour the asphalt ran out and the broken primer went. Many times the rivers were forded - in some places it was just dangerous - deep and stormy waters. But our dashing drivers successfully overcame everything. After lunch we arrived in Askole, a village at an altitude of 3050m, settled into tents, had lunch, rested. We are having dinner now and going to bed early, since tomorrow is an early exit. There will be a 7-8 hour walk to the Jola camp.

The head of the expedition to K2 Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov were in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 22. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "Height Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! This morning we went to one of the highest plateaus in the world - the Deosai Plateau. There, at an altitude of 4,300, bears live, stormy rivers flow, snow caps of mountains rise. There we made a couple of acclimatization trips, visited a high-altitude classified military base, tasted pink Baltistan tea. In the evening we returned to our hotel, where we had a hearty dinner, a barbecue with a bonfire and music.

Tomorrow we leave for Ascole very early in the morning! Towards adventure!

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 21. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition on K2! The second day we are in a hot Skardu. In the morning, we packed the trunks, which will leave earlier immediately to the Base Camp. We walked through the market once again and pleased ourselves with vitamins, which we will not see soon now - we bought cherries, mangoes, melons.

Having received a message from Abramov from the trek, we rushed to buy umbrellas and shorts to escape from the incredible heat that is now on the trek. In the evening we went to a very interesting place - a Cold Desert. We rode on the dunes in jeeps, and the bravest even flew on moto-paragliders and hang gliders.

Already late in the evening we received information that so far the military has not given us the permit to enter the border zone. Well, we are not discouraged. We have a plan B. And tomorrow we will implement it!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the co-head of the expedition to K2, and Andrey Selivanov, the expedition doctor, are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 20.  Greetings to all from Pakistan - now from Skardu (2300m) from the participants of the expedition to K2! Three more members of our expedition arrived early this morning (Sergey Bogomolov, Dmitry Moskalev and Bartek). And already a full team (16 people) we flew to Skardu.

Just 45 minutes of flight - and we are at an altitude of 2300 (the heat, however, is almost like in Islamabad). While flying, we admired the second highest peak of Pakistan – Nanga Parbat (which is often called the killer mountain).

We settled with the maximum comfort available in Skardu at the Summit Hotel. A visit to the castle was scheduled for the evening… And for good reason - the walk around Skardu and the surrounding area turned out wonderful: we visited the local market with colorful characters and goods; we looked at the local sports complex - the stadium where matches are held for two of the most popular games in Pakistan - polo and cricket. The main event of the day is the acclimatization ascent on the top of Karpocho (ruins of the fortress of Karpocho). From here we had stunning views of Skardu, the bends of the legendary Indus and the distant peaks of Karakorum. At the end of the day, we took a picture at the inscription "I love Skardu". And, indeed, we managed to fall in love with this hospitable town.

Tomorrow is our procurement and preparation day. The day after tomorrow we plan to leave for Ascole, where our track to K2 will begin.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the co-head of the expedition to K2, and Andrey Selivanov, the expedition doctor, are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 19.  Greetings to all from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "The High Altitude Gene"! Today, almost all the members of the expedition and the entire crew of the RD Studio have arrived in Islamabad. As soon as the temperature dropped a little below 40 C, we went on a tour of the capital. We visited the Monument of Pakistan - a huge structure in the form of a flower, symbolizing Pakistan itself with its regions. Then we visited the largest mosque in Pakistan (and one of the largest in the World) - the Faisal Mosque, which simultaneously accommodates more than 300,000 worshippers. And we went up to the Himalayas - to the hills that end the Himalayas in Pakistan. This is the Margalla Ridge.

3 more participants will arrive tomorrow, and we will all go to Skardu together.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 17.  Hello everyone from Pakistan! The advanced troika of the expedition on K2, consisting of the leaders Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko, as well as the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov, flew from Moscow on June 16.

Early in the morning on June 17, we arrived in hot Islamabad. A few hours later, Alexander Abramov went straight to Skardu. From there, he will soon start moving to K2 together with our Sherpa team in order to prepare everything in advance for the arrival of the main team.

Andrey and I stayed in the capital to wait for the arrival of the whole group. We are making purchases, looking for hot spots to add spice to the future film about K2 and Pakistan!

The head of the Makalu expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Yesterday, a solemn celebration of the Makalu climbers took place in the Makalu BC. They were awarded certificates and medals. And then the unofficial part began - with a cake from our chef Dandy and dancing from our Sherpas. By the way, we also solemnly presented the main sirdar and Guinness Book record holder Lakpa Makalu from our 8000 Club with a commemorative medal for Makalu (this year he climbed to this peak 7th times). This morning, part of the group was able to fly to Kathmandu. 5 participants were stuck in Lukla due to bad weather (Simone Moro personally settled everyone in good hotels and promised to take them to Kathmandu tomorrow). One participant, Volodya Belkovich, flew to the Everest BC and plans to climb Lhotse in the coming days. We hope that tomorrow, on May 20, everyone will gather in Kathmandu - both Makalu and Everest teams and celebrate our successful ascents!