Luda Korobeshko - Page 14

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, a guide of the group from Bolivia:

 Greetings to all from Bolivia from the assault camp at an altitude of 5250, from the Cochabamba group! We got here today on November 29 at 15.00 in Bolivia. The weather is changeable, it was snowing in the morning, but now it has stopped. Tomorrow, November 30, at one o'clock in the morning, we will attack Huayna Potosi. Wish us luck!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, a guide of the group from Bolivia:

 Greetings from Lake Titicaca from the Cochabamba group! Today we had a very beautiful and eventful day: we visited the Museum of RA II and its valiant builders - local Indians who built this and other boats for Thor Heyerdahl. Then we crossed to the Island of the Sun and wandered around it in search of titi (wild cats, thanks to which the lake got its name, pleasing to Russian ears). We didn't find titi, but we saw a stunningly beautiful sunset on the highest point of the Island of the Sun. We tasted local dishes and were most impressed by the huge local corn. We even asked the locals for seeds so that we could try to grow something similar in our homeland.

In our cozy hotel, we were the first foreigners since the beginning of the quarantine. While walking around the island, we met a group of girls (local tourists - not considered) and a single American. So we almost managed to feel like a pioneer.

Tomorrow we will move to the Island of the Moon, where young virgins were sacrificed and where in later times the Bolivian Alcatraz was located.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, guide of the group from Bolivia:

November 25. Greetings from La Paz from Lyudmila Korobeshko and the group "Hasla la vista, Cochabamba"!

Early this morning, the entire group flew to the highest mountain capital of the world. This is Sucre, which few people know about. We arrived from Cochabamba, where we spent two unforgettable hours on the transfer, and this city left a lasting impression in the hearts of the group members. Despite the long flight and a day of rest according to the program, all members expressed a desire to go for a walk. We took a walk along the legendary Condor path ("Mamani" in the ayamara language) and visited the Moon Valley, which got its name from Neil Armstrong.

 The place is really very unusual and beautiful. We almost felt like astronauts. Probably also because there is almost no one else in tourist places besides us - the country opened only a month ago. Not everyone has found out about it yet.

Now we are taking a break from walking on the Lunar terrain, steaming in the bath. Tomorrow we leave for Lake Titicaca. Maybe we will be cosmonauts and discoverers there this season!

Lyudmila Korobeshko from Panama:

Greetings from Panama! This is how our programs in Bolivia start now! From visiting one of the neighboring countries! Here is lots of sun, lots of sea (or rather two, two oceans), a lot of fish (that's how the local Indian language translates the word PANAMA), many birds (including the amazing Quetzal), many butterflies and so much more interesting. Of course, the most famous attraction is the Panama canal, which was conceived by the Spanish king in the 16th century, the French began to build in the 19th, and the Americans finished in the 20th. The canal is currently closed to tourists, but it is open to ships (each of which pays a lot of money for passage, sometimes up to half a million dollars), and you can look at it from the bridge of The two Americas, standing with your left foot on one continent and your right on the other, which is what I did first.

Tomorrow I will continue my journey to Bolivia, where I will meet with a group to climb the beautiful peak - Huayna Potosi!

Leaders of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko made a short trip to Pakistan. The main goal was to get acquainted with the country and the local operator, a partner in the organization of the expedition on K2. Let us remind you, that we are planning two sports expeditions on the second peak of the World, in summer and in winter. As part of a short trip, Alex and Luda made an attempt to climb Mount Khosar Gang (6200m). The summit was not reached due to strong wind and lack of equipment. However, in general, they come back in full delight with the country, people and mountains.

Day 3. Climb from base camp 3800 to camp 1 at 4800.

The night at the Base camp went well. It was a little chilly, maybe near zero. But we threw bottles of hot water in our warm sleeping bags, and the local kids made us thick mattresses.

We woke up around 7 am. The Sun came out only at 8.30, but immediately warmed up sharply. We had a delicious breakfast. Around 10 am, we went upstairs. The climb to the first camp took 4 hours and 1000 m of drop. The views were beautiful again. We walked along the ridge mostly, so the wind saved us from the heat. By 14.00 we came to camp 1 at 4800, had a cup of tea, and even found some Internet.

Tomorrow, the plan is to move to the camp at 5300 and try to storm the summit on the same night. We are afraid of the strong wind that was forecast. Let's see what happens at the top…

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club from Pakistan:

Greetings from Pakistan, or rather from the capital of Baltistan - Skardu! We were warmly welcomed by the five brothers Said, the Lela Peak company managers.  

 We managed to walk around Skardu, all the people here are very friendly and hospitable. Tomorrow we start climbing Khosar Gang. On the first day, according to the plan, we should reach the base camp at 3800.

Our friend and companion on many 7 Summits Club expeditions Daniil Briman is not just a brewer, but a brewer of the highest category. Suffice it to mention that he is the Chairman of the Council of the Union of Russian Brewers! And he had a very good tradition – to brew a unique special beer dedicated to a specific mountaineering ascent and a specific summit. So the rapid blitz ascent on Elbrus ended with the following scene of taking snow from the top to prepare a new variety of beer:

These are our members! We are proud! Brewer Daniil Briman previously brewed with us and treated us to special beers: Everest, Denali and Mont Blanc.

By the way, the idea of a super-blitz on Elbrus was born in Daniil during our recent friendly expedition on Ararat, in a conversation with Alexander Abramov.

On September 16, a large group of the 7 Summits Club expedition led by Alexander Abramov reached the summit of Mount Ararat. Wonderful climb, great group!

 Farewell photo with Mount Ararat

The author of the video is Lyudmila Korobeshko:

Lyudmila Korobeshko from Turkey:

Today our team "Turkish Gambit" - all 26 people - climbed the summit of Mount Ararat. Now we all went down to the base camp and celebrate our victory.

Lyudmila Korobeshko from Turkey:  Greetings from the slopes of Ararat from the Turkish Gambit team! Our large group (26 people) climbed to acclimatize to the height of 4200. We walked for less than 4 hours from 3300 to 4200, it is good speed! On the way, you can see wonderful views of Little Ararat. We spent 40 minutes in the assault camp on 4200. There we drank tea and ran down to the delicious Turkish soup and Oriental sweets. We're resting now. In a couple of hours, according to the plan, there will be roast lamb and a continuation of yesterday's Banquet. It was the Grand opening of the new camp of the 7 Summits Club on Ararat.

Tomorrow we move with things on 4200 and in the same night we go to storm the summit.

The 7 Summits Club guides Alex Abramov, Serge Avtomonov and Lucy Korobeshko were in touch.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko and guide Sergey Avtonomov completed their mission to set up a base camp for a large group that is coming tomorrow. The Club President Alex Abramov personally checked the readiness of the camp. The weather on Ararat is excellent, we hope for a successful ascent. Tomorrow - group meeting in Van.

25 июля 2020 года в составе большой группы Клуба 7 вершин юная художница Юлия Демина совершила восхождение на вершину Эльбуса по программе «Блиц». Горная тема - одна из ведущих в ее творчестве, что неудивительно, ведь она опытная спортсменка, чемпионка России по горному туризму. Свежие виды на горы Кавказа вдохновили ее на новый цикл работ. Некоторые из них она сделала прямо у убежища перед штурмом вершины. Юлия отдала их своим товарищам по скалолазанию. А теперь она приготовила подарок убежищу «Национальный парк».

Yesterday Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko climbed Mount Kazbek, the Eastern and Western peaks. The entire program took four days from Terskol to Terskol. It is a very picturesque route with elements of via-ferrata and Tyrolean river crossing! We recommend it to everyone! We would like to express our gratitude to our partners Alexander Yakovenko! As well as Alexander Rastorguyev and Nikita Slotin, who accompanied us on the route.

 Oleg Savchenko is an absolutely wonderful person, one of the most important people in the Volgograd region. He is a highly successful businessman and established politician, who worked three terms in the State Duma of the Russian Federation, a Deputy of the regional Duma. In his youth, Oleg was a handball player, an international-class athlete, and became interested in mountaineering only after he turned 50 years old. With the 7 Summits Club  Savchenko made ascents to Everest, where he performed his unique project. With the help of Sherpas, a unique operation was carried out to bury the body of Slovenian Marko Lihteneker, who died in 2005 near the summit.

And also with us Savchenko climbed other peaks of the "seven": Vinson, Aconcagua and Carstensz. And so he finished everything on July 25, 2020 in native Elbrus.

Congratulations to Oleg! We wish you new summits, new achievements, good health and luck!

 As you know, the famous Russian traveler and explorer Fyodor Konyukhov became the first Russian to climb the "Seven summits". And he has a long and strong friendship with the 7 Summits Club. In 2012, Fyodor Konyukhov, as part of our expedition led by Alexander Abramov, climbed Everest for the second time. And we haven't lost touch since.

Last year, together with his son Oscar, grandchildren and friends, and under the guidance of a guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Ermakov, Fyodor climbed Mount Kilimanjaro. On our website you can read a report about this ascent. At the same time, the idea was born to continue cooperation and organize the ascent on Elbrus. The expedition to the highest peak of Russia and Europe is scheduled for August 2-9.

In preparation for the ascent to Elbrus, a special batch of equipment was ordered…

Everest 2012

Kilimanjaro 2019

Fyodor Konyukhov visiting the 7 Summits Club

The 7 Summit Club hosted by Fyodor Konyukhov

We are fabulously lucky that in Sunny Crimea we have such a representative, the head of programs of the Climbing school of the 7 Summits Club, as Natasha. An athlete and beauty, an authoritative hostess and administrator – we are always sure that she will do everything right.

Natasha, long, long years to your happiness, peace and stability in life! Always be in great physical shape, do not get sick and do not pay attention to trifles! Happy Birthday!

Looking Back ... some nostalgic feeling of being in Antarctica and summiting Mt Vinson with Alex Abramov and the crazy Russian team:  Vladislav Lachkarev and  Alla Mishina.

The entire trip was freezing cold, white-out, windy ...only the Russians can heck this ... super strong and resilient folks not forgetting their spirits! (not vodka .... but pure alcohol! :))

As crazy as they can be, but I had some wonderful time and learned so many values!

Since I got back from the trip … I wondered why was it so much fun and at the same time, we all became so close and manage to endure that atrocious weather and manage to get to the pinnacle of Antarctica. These were some of my reflections and learnings for this expedition!

Leadership – I have been in many teams, also have run companies and transform a few of them but the Leadership of Alex was the difference. He was motivating, educating, at times a drill Sargent (driving us crazy) and a fun-loving individual! And when he is on the mountain… he is definitely in charge together with Artom (Guide) He truly exhibits it when the situation arises during so many challenges along the way up to the summit, At times he raises his voice, jokes, teaches, etc. and mind u the people who climb with him are all Business owners/ CEO’s (Vlad, Alla, Sergey, Sasha…) We all continue to climb with him because of the same reasons.

There was a particular time I was struggling in the climb and was beginning to have self-doubt, he turned around and told me u are stronger and u know that! I didn’t get it in the beginning, but later I knew he just wanted me to focus on the climb and not noise inside me! He can be fun and crazy at the same time and an example of it was when he bought a Xmas tree and shipped to Union Glacier and placed it outside our tent area so we will not feel left out and will feel festive!

Teamwork – When I first met the team, I felt the odd one out among an entire Russian team, This brown Malaysian guy trying to blend in with these folks who spoke a different language and culturally different! But then as the expedition progressed, I truly felt the comradeship of the team, they looked after each other, supported each other, to the extend when we have meals they will wait for me, not once but every time and not forgetting the alcohol drinking sessions after our meals. So there was once I asked my fellow teammate, Vlad, why are these folks so hospitable, then he replied we are FAMILY! In a family, there will be ups and down but we stick together. I also realized that my tentmate Ella (a super fit grandma) who keeps an eye on my safety and wellbeing! AN example of it was once I wandered out of the tent after dinner and I was out for many hours, and as she got worried, she got hold of Alex and started searching for me!

Knowledgeable – He might not be the fastest or fittest climber I know, but he definitely knows his mountains esp. places where he climbs (Everest 10x, the 7 summits in 7 months and many more). An example of this was when we got to the high camp that evening, a couple of teams just got back after summiting. They were surprised we came in when the weather windows are about to close. And we were told the park rangers will also come by the following day to inform us to go down. Alex just smiled and told us to have a hearty meal and go to bed. A few hours later, he called out to all of us and asked us to get ready in 20 mins. I was puzzled, when I stepped out it was windy (easily 40 -50 km hour) and freezing (probably -30c)!

Without saying more, we all got ready and had our breakfast before heading out. As expected it was cloudy, windy and freezing… we just kept walking and walking … a couple of hours into the climb and when we took a turn, the sun which was hiding behind the mountains rise! Although it was still cloudy it was not so windy and the weather got better as we climbed higher. It was a challenging climb as we got closer … gasping for breath we manage to reach the summit ridge and summited!

When we got back to base camp, the other teams were surprised that we actually climbed and more so to the summit! That’s where I know Alex knows his mountains pretty darn well!

No doubt every mountaineer would have similar stories and teams who love them and great experiences, meanwhile, this was my personal experience something I thought worth sharing!

  We had to cancel our Everest and Lhotse expeditions due to the fact that Nepal officially closed the climbing season in the spring of 2020. But there is an alternative - you can make a virtual climb on Everest.   https://yandex.ru/everest/  Photos were  made during our expeditions on Everest in the spring of 2016.

On January 4, Belgian climber Sofie Lenaerts completed a program to climb the seven highest peaks of seven continents. She did this as part of the 7 Summit Club team. UIAA official site published an interview with the heroine of the season.

UIAA official site:  Sofie Lenaerts – on top of each continent 

Eleven years ago, mountain climbing enthusiast, full-time employee for the Belgian Federal Police and the face of Watch Out, a weekly traffic magazine show on Belgian television, Sofie Lenaerts scaled the highest mountain range in Europe, Mount Elbrus, a dormant volcano in the Caucasus Mountains. Sofie enjoyed the experience but soon sought new challenges.

In the ensuring years followed successful summits in South America, North America and Asia. It slowly dawned on Lenaerts that she was soon halfway to conquering the mythical Seven Summits challenge, the attempt to scale the highest mountain on every continent. So it was at 19:00 on 10 January 2020 after a seven-hour climb and withstanding bitterly cold temperatures and high winds, along with climbing companions Eva Lakiere and Miguel Madrid Lopez, she took the final, emotional step of the 4892 metres up to the peak of Mount Vinson, the highest mountain in Antarctica. With this, Lenaerts made her own piece of history. The Seven Summits challenge has long been an ambition for many mountaineers. In April 1985, American Richard Bass was the first documented person to climb all seven summits. If joining an elite group wasn’t an historic enough achievement, Sofie also became the first woman in Belgium or indeed the entire Benelux to accomplish this feat. She follows in the footsteps of UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt (Netherlands), a fellow Seven Summiter.

The 44-year old is something of a self-confessed adventure junkie, enjoying a myriad of sports including skydiving, kickboxing, motorcycling, scuba diving, skiing, trail running, kite surfing, speleology, high-altitude climbing and paragliding. In 2018, she ran and cycled 270km in 24 hours, from the lowest to the highest point in Flanders, as an ambassador for the Make-A-Wish “30 days without complaining” campaign.  It is a demonstration of the level of physical and mental preparedness and determination that has allowed her to achieve what for most of us would be impossible, with months of preparation having to go into each climb.

Photo credits: https://www.facebook.com/pg/8000unlimited

 

THE UIAA SPOKE TO SOFIE RECENTLY TO DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HER ACHIEVEMENT, HER PASSION FOR MOUNTAINEERING AND IN LINE WITH THE UIAA’S OWN ETHICS ON MOUNTAIN SAFETY, HER BELIEF IN RESPONSIBLE CLIMBING.

When did your interest in climbing, the outdoors and mountaineering begin? And how has it evolved over time?

I was invited to go indoor climbing when I was 24 years old. After that this same person took me rock climbing in the Ardennes (Beez, Freyr, Dave). After that came via Ferrata in the Dolomites (Italy) and rock-climbing small mountains (+3000m) in France and Italy. My first “bigger” mountain was Nevado Pisco, 5752m, in Peru. After that I decided I wanted to climb more peaks like this. I went to Ecuador, Nepal, Colombia, Argentina, Alaska and step by step I started dreaming of crossing the 8000m threshold.

Your quest to scale all Seven Summits was a feat which took place over eleven years. At which stage did you really take on the challenge of climbing them all? Was it something you had in mind when you climbed Elbrus in 2009 or is it something which came to you much later?

In the beginning I didn’t plan to climb the Seven Summits. Elbrus and Aconcagua were just an opportunity and I had chosen to climb Denali as training preparation for an 8000m peak. But when two expeditions to an 8000m peak had failed, I had the opportunity to climb Everest. After that, in 2016 I had succeeded in climbing it, I decided to complete the Seven Summits.

You have mentioned in interviews only taking calculated risks and getting to the top is really only the halfway point. This is a really responsible philosophy, and one the UIAA through its work across mountain safety promotes. In a world where sometimes people want to achieve things at any cost, how important is it to you that you are a responsible climber, who respects the challenge, the mountain and the mountain environment?

I believe that good decision making can only be achieved by true experience. You need years of practice in the mountains where you need to learn step by step where the dangers lie and gradually you will also learn what your physical and mental boundaries are. If you respect the safety rules in mountaineering, you can reduce the risks to accidents and find a healthy balance between wanting to reach the summit but also knowing when it’s time to commence the ascent and return safely. The mountains doesn’t run away and a patient climber has a greater chance to grow old and tell their story, whereas eager bold climbers sometimes die young.

In terms of preparation and planning, how much time typically went into each expedition (in terms of training, route planning, organisation and what were the most challenging parts to organise)?

For a big expedition like a group expedition towards an 8000m peak, it took one year but when I climb together with my husband (Stef Maginelle – himself an expert climber and first Belgian to climb two peaks above 8000m, without oxygen, during the same expedition), it’s between six to eight months. The last expedition we did was without a Sherpa or oxygen so we only needed to organize the basecamp facilities …something these days is very easy to do. The variety of commercialized logistics organizations is wide spread.  As for training, we try to keep in shape the whole year around and one month before departure we start our hypoxic training. Depending on the physical challenge, we adjust the training where needed.

Across the seven expeditions what was technically the most challenging moment, and what emotionally was the most memorable?

The most technical challenge was the Everest North side but not the most beautiful experience, that would be Denali, for I love to climb independently. For Everest and Vinson, I needed to make an exception. The most emotional were Everest and Vinson. Everest because it was my first +8000 m peak and I knew my husband stood on that same point nine years before and Vinson, because it was the last of the Seven Summits. One of the other climbs – not related to the Seven Summits – I learned most from was a solo expedition to the North Side (AD+) of Khan Tengri 7010m in Kazakhstan in 2015 (pictured above). I had to set-up three high camps, using two very small tents. I spent 14 days on the mountain because of continuous bad weather, but made it to the summit even when many other expeditions of male climbers turned back. I had to use fixed ropes from previous expeditions to climb the hardest parts and in a happy coincidence I met three Belgians, two of whom also made the summit. It made for nice company and for me, this climb, is still the most beautiful experience I have ever accomplished.

After a decade long pursuit accomplishing her dream, many people would be forgiven for settling for the quieter life.  An inspiration to climbers in her home country, she will be somewhere new soon chasing her next adventure.  As she says herself, “If you can dream it, you can do it”.

TIMELINE OF SOFIE’S SEVEN SUMMITS

Elbroes (5642 meters), Europe. Climbed in 2009
Aconcagua (6962 meters), South America. Climbed in 2010
Denali (6190 meters), North America. Climbed in 2012
Mount Everest (8848 meters), Asia. Climbed in 2016
Puncak Jaya (4884 meters), Oceania. Climbed in 2017
Kilimanjaro (5895 meters), Africa. Climbed in 2018
Mount Vinson (4892 meters), Antarctica. Climbed in 2020