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Our group on Mont Blanc acclimatized today near the Refuge de Gouter. Lenar Khairutdinov and Albert Karimov quite reasonably decided not to undertake the ascent attempt in the absence of visibility. They just walked around the neighborhood a mountain hut that always contributes to a better acclimatization. Tomorrow night our men plan to go on a decisive assault on the White Mountain.

Lyudmila Korobeshko reports: Indonesian Samurai team successfully reached the summit of Mount Elbrus this morning  under our wise leadership. And then, now is the day we celebrate the victory ....

 The Colorado team began preparations for the traverse of Mount Elbrus from south to north through the Western summit. Team is cheerful, has a good appetite. Today they made acclimatization to the Observatory, while showing an excellent physical preparation. All participants live in the Colorado area, so the name had not come up for a long time.

Hi! Here is Vladimir Kotlyar,  a guide of the 7 Summit Club,  climbing program Elbrus with the Positive FM team. Today we went up to the Western peak of  Mount Elbrus by the full team of Positive FM , 11 people. At the moment, we go down on the "oblique shelf" already gone about 5250. So, in principle, to the house a little bit left. Adios!

Good afternoon! It is Ludmila Korobeshko, this time from the village of Terskol. Here we went yesterday to a little rest and ride out the bad weather, which is now on Elbrus -  two or three days. And now - a very strong wind is  at the summit, we can say it is a storm, blizzard. And at night, and lightning flashing, thunder. At this time in Terskol cut off electricity.

In general, the plans we are following: we rise up and try to go at night to climb the summit. In fact, for our Indonesian group  it is the last chance, they already transferred tickets. Because the next night, in tomorrow night, they already have to fly to Moscow.

And now they are together, the whole team, went to the local mosque. Because they are all Muslims, and Friday prayer - this is for the Muslims in general, probably, the most sacred. In general, they are now all pray. I think, in particular, for our successful ascent. Here are our business. And still in the team, we had a small exchange.  As the second guide it will be Alex  Abramov. Well, wish us luck! Bye!

  The team of the 7 Summits Club was halfway on the Hoernli crest. In  the weather like this, you have no chance to climb to the top. The weather does not permit, the mountain will not let.  The group climbed in extreme weather conditions. Strong winds, heavy rainfall, the top is tight veil of clouds.  They could not climb to the top, but 50% of the way was passed, which is also the experience. The route of the Matterhorn is difficult and requires good preparation. The descent and ascent without incident - it is already a success.

The summit is delayed until the next time.

Today, a group of 7 Summits Club came by cable car and on foot from Zermatt to the hut Hoernli. There, they were placed in a new, capitally reconstructed in the past year,  mountain hut. They will spend a disturbing evening and the night. The weather is changeable, but there is no time to wait, you need to go to the assault.

"The mood is good, the weather is not very"

Alexander Abramov. Report of Elbrus Climb blitz program from climbing team under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. July 18th a team of five members arrived in Mineralnye Vody. July 19th we went to the shelter Leaprus. The weather was terrible. It was pouring rain and thunder rumbled. We barely made it to the shelter. After lunch we hired a snow tractor and climbed to the Pastukhov Rocks. At 4600m. There we spend about half-hour to acclimatize, then under the snow and heavy wind began to descend to the Refuge Eleven, where he held a snow-ice training.

 At night, in terrible weather, we went to the snowcat at 5100 m. From there, in terms of visibility up to 10 meters and winds of 40 km \ h and snow, we began to climb. We have put an additional 50 marker stake. Its rescued us on the descent. We walked to the top of 6 hours. Only the skill and experience of guides Andrey Berezin and Sanya Melky allowed us to find the way to the top and walk down the mountain alive.

It was one of the most extreme ascents in my life. But good job of guides guarantee total confidence and safety. At the top we spent 5 minutes (10 beautiful minutes - according to Andrew Berezin). Then there was a long descent into the blizzard. On this day, only about 20 people  managed to reach the summit of Elbrus. Most of people turned down. Now there is bad weather on Elbrus. And all the teams are waiting for improvements. And my team has already flown home today. Here's a blitz program!

Today Natalya climbed to the top of Mount Kazbek together with our Georgian guide. But her friend Zakhar had to turn back from the col due to poor health (lack of acclimatization).

Congratulations to Natasha! We wish both of them new mountains!!!

July 20. The group of Indonesian samurais. Here is Lyudmila Korobeshko, all with the same slopes of Elbrus. Yesterday the storm rattled all night. In the morning we tried to go to acclimatize three times, but soaked through, just before reaching the toilet. As a result, we decided to make a day of rest yesterday. Today, we have completed our plans - went for acclimatization to the Pastukhov Rocks. The wind was  terrible and with snowstorm. Tired but satisfied we went down to the shelter. Tomorrow we want to go down to rest in Azau, and the next day to climb the shelter and on the same night to go on climbing.

Bye!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Sergei Larin and a group of older, but cheerful Indonesian Samurais ...

Hello everyone! Here is  Vladimir Kotlyar and the team "Positive FM". Today we are at Leaprus, our shelter with panoramic windows with views of glaciers and mountains. In the afternoon we were acclimated to 4100. We work out with ice ax, jumped, rode on the snow. Wet and happy went back home. Now we celebrate the birthday of Alexander Lipatov, a full-fledged member of our group...

Yesterday, a large and friendly team from Indonesia acclimatized on the slopes of the peak Terskol, led by guides 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergei Larin. They rose to the Observatory and admired the wonderful view from there. The current outing was already on Elbrus itself, its slopes. There, our guides conducted the first training on how to behave on snow and ice slopes, new to many Indonesians as a relief.

On the first day after their arrival, the group entered for the ice training on the glacier Mer de Glace. The weather was beautiful, everything was great. 2-3 serene day may be enough to ensure that the route of the Matterhorn came into a state suitable for climbing. The first attempt of our group to climb the mountain ended far from the top, too much snow on the rocks...

 In the morning it was the rain. We went to the Vyborg Castle, then took to the water. Later afternoon we went on the rocks to Palzevo, where we climbed, trained.

 The day before, we practiced on the rocks in the Monrepo Park

Lyudmila Korobeshko: A large group of Indonesians (15 persons) arrived today at the airport Mineralnye Vody, by the program Elbrus. They brought the heat to + 35. We will  have fun. Guides of group: Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergey Larin.

In general, our 7 Summits Club today has a "mega-check", the route begin at once three large groups.

Photos of the climbing day. On Sunday June 26th a large team of eleven people under the leadership of the 7 Summits Club guide Olga Rumyantseva made a successful ascent to the summit of Stok Kangri in the Indian Himalayas. Assault Day was not easy - all the climb with descent took 19 hours.

 



Но потом начинает светлеть. Постепенно начинаешь просыпаться и вспоминаешь, что Сток Кангри - самая высокая вершина в данном месте. А значит нам все-таки туда, наверх. То есть очень далеко.

























К этому моменту народ уже стало конкретно плющить и горняшить.
Видите, как я внимательно смотрю на солнышко?



Не то чтобы я так уж интересовалась небесным светилом. Скорее уж чтоб рядом валяющихся товарищей не замечать.



Но смотри не смотри и лежи не лежи, до вершины как-то идти надо. Поэтому на привалах все приваливались, но по команде сразу вставали и дисциплинированно как роботы шли наверх.



Крутизна склона увеличивалась, появились небольшие участки льда, и мы связались. В смысле пошли в связках. Для людей, чувствующих себя на горных склонах уверенно такой уж большой необходимости нет. Но это был не наш случай.



Не буду утомлять вас деталями нашего восхождения. Ибо разнообразие их было небольшое.
Мы шли, ползли, лезли. Многим было не очень хорошо. Некоторым откровенно плохо.
Как кадр всплывает картинка: Лена с Кристинкой валяющиеся по обе стороны одного камушка и Тимур мутным взглядом обводя их: "Ни фига себе сходил в отпуск."

После того, как вылезли на гребень стало гораздо красивее и появилось больше шансов куда-нибудь упасть, увлёкшись красотами.






Солнце поднималось выше. Час тёк за часом. И становилось ясно, что мы тут не в сказку попали. Хотя виды по сторонам были сказочные.

Но знаете, что лично мне запомнилось больше всего?
Больше всего мне запомнилось отношение участников друг другу.
Давно я такого не видела.
Да, всем было тяжело и плохо. Но все поддерживали друг друга словами и делами, переживали, делились последним глотком чая.






Вот уже вершина совсем близко.
Андрей, снимающий видео:
- Оля, скажи нам, это вершина?
- Нет, Андрей, это такое предвершинное место, где для усталых путников складывают еду и воду.

И панический голос за спиной:
- Что?! Это еще не вершина?!!!

Интересно, войдёт ли это в фильм о нашем восхождении :)



И, как говорится, весь мир на ладони ты счастлив



и нем...
И никому уже не завидуешь.






Но у нас еще хватило сил встретить вторую связку, где были наши героини этого непростого восхождения.



Мы сидели на вершине и каждый думал о чем-то своем. Лично я о том, что ведь надо еще и вниз как-то спуститься.



фотография под названием: тот неловкий момент, когда очень хочется оказаться внизу, но вспоминаешь, что ты тут гид.

Впрочем, что это я. Разве такие фотографии с вершины нужно показывать.
Вот она - неприкрытая радость достижения вершины.



Спуск вниз был не менее эпичен и почти героичен.
Я с ужасом смотрела, как люди на подгибающихся ногах падали практически на ровном месте, а упав барахтались как крабы не в силах встать.



В одном месте пришлось даже верхнюю страховку организовать. Ибо так оно спокойнее было.



А на склоне снег растаял, и мы ползли проваливаясь по грудь.
Вернее, обнаружив, что при попытке сделать шаг, проваливаешься по грудь, мы - два местных гида и я - встали вперед и стали рыть траншею, утрамбовывая снег.

Все это отнимало силы и время, но самое главное мы сделали и нужно было просто доползти как-то вниз.



А у ледника нас встречал наш Вончюк с командой китчен боев. Они принесли чай и забрали у уставших участников рюкзаки.

Это придало сил и скорости.



Еще час-полтора по склонам, где мы шли в темноте. Был седьмой час вечера. Самое время поужинать.






Наши повернувшие назад товарищи ждали нас в лагере, ждали. Потом не выдержали и пошли на встречу и встречали всех на перевале.



Последний взгляд на нашу вершину с перевала перед спуском в лагерь.



Такую красивую и непростую. Но оставившую незабываемые впечатления.

Mount Kilimanjaro is located in the Southern Hemisphere, although very close to the equator. Formally, now there is winter here, although in these places from the summer it is not too different. So - greetings to you from winter from Artem Rostovtsev! He ran with a group of the top and down so fast that the summit picture is only in the form of night ...

Today, a large group led by Andrei Berezin climbed Western peak of Mount Elbrus. Then the main part of the group began to descend to the north and safely came down to the Glade of Emanuel. Alex Byakin and guide Vladimir Kotlyar split from the group on the saddle. They successfully climbed to the Eastern Peak of Elbrus, and caught up with a group already at the bottom, in the meadows of the North slope of Elbrus. That is, they did "Cross of Elbrus" in the full version.

Polish mountaineers led by a guide Sergey Larin climbed independently from the main group. The group consisted of Father - Bartek, Son - Maciek and Mother - Renata. They have successfully reached the Western Peak, and then the guide and climbed the Eastern Peak. Mama Renata (at her home she has three more children) went on their own to the refuge Leaprus where she waited for her husband and son.

As a result, all participants performed their target. We congratulate the climbers!

Hi, Seven Summits! It is Artem Rostovtsev. We are now in the Barafu camp. At the moment we have dawn, we admire them. We have not overslept, woke up on time and  already went to the summit and come down. It was very easy to go. We decided that the slow pace even begin to ruin us in high altitude. Why be here  a lot of time? We decided to watch the sunrise in the Barafu camp. I think it happens so rarely. We went unscathed, healthy, rest a couple of hours and go down. Greetings from Tanzania, from Kilimanjaro! Artem Rostovtsev