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The whole group of 7 Summits Club today, climbedMont Blancvia the normal route through the Aiguille du Gouter. All 9 members and 3 guides (Victor Bobok, Dennis Saveliev and Alexei Lonchinsky) reached the summit and descended safely to the refuge. Now they are at Tete Rousse, tomorrow they will go down in Chamonix.

At the same time on the opposite slope ofMont Blancterrible catastrophe occurred, one of the worst in the history of mountaineering. On the slope of Mont Maudit, where the route goes "Three Mont Blanc route" an avalanche swept away a large group of climbers. It happened at 5-25 a.m. The exact number of victims will be more refined. Search works underway. At the moment, it found that killed 9 people. They are climbers from Spain, Britain, Germany and Switzerland.

This is Alexander Abramov. Now late in the evening, and a concert in the Elbrus region still continues. Today, our team has climbed to the top of Cheget. It was a very useful walk in the foggy weather. In the evening the participants of the song festival came fromMoscow. Right in the office of the 7 Summits Club, right on the street, we had a concert, and then dancing, and dancing. Now the concert goes on, has already begun the first hour of the night. We are all in excellent mood. Tomorrow we'll go to the Shelter Eleven. And by the way, the bards will climb with us. The concert will continue. Good-bye!

This is Ivan Dusharin from Team Alpari. We’re currently working on Mount McKinley.

I wanted to describe one of our most difficult days of climbing, where we had to make it from 3,200 meters to 4,200 meters – a whole kilometer vertically. We were expecting snow today, so we were pretty excited when we woke up and didn’t see any. Then we started to wonder how we would manage to carry all of our stuff up.

We knew that this would be one of our most difficult climbs, pitting us against a really steep incline. On this part ofDenali, most climbers ditch their sleds and carry their equipment on their shoulders.

Usually this stretch takes a couple of days, but we decided to try to make it all the way in one go. We loaded up two sleds and headed upwards. It wasn’t easy. We had to crawl on all fours, fighting tooth and nail the whole way up. It took us 8 grueling hours to make it to rangers’ camp at 4,200 meters, but we managed to cut a couple of days out of our expedition. Along the way, we passed a number of teams that had started out before we did. I think the only reason we were able to make the climb was that we were well acclimatized to the altitude after Everest.

July 6 team led by Luda Pershina completed their program in Cuzco. July 5 group had an interesting day - we visited Machu Picchu, the sacred city of the Incas, where we spent about 5 hours. Our representatives, Margarita and Olesia, have climbed the Huayna Picchu peak. Then we had lunch in Aguas Calientes and by the train on the narrow gauge went back to Cuzco. In the morning of 6 July Gusakovsky family departed to continue their journey into the jungle. And I studied with Olesia neighborhood of Cuzco. We visited an Indian village, and admired the night streets of the city of the Incas. Now we walk in Lima waiting for the flight home. Hello to everyone! Luba Pershina

Weather just not allowed to do that. We returned to Tbilisi. Everebody feels normal. The weather, unfortunately, is bad again. All, I think, we are pleased with the results, everyone understands that it was impossible to climb in those weather conditions. See you in Moscow ! Hello! Dmitry Ermakov.

It is Alexander Abramov from Elbrus. Yesterday, about 12 o'clock in the afternoon, our team was on top of Mount Elbrus. More exactly in the 10-40 a.m., they tell me. That means even faster. In perfect weather. Climbed to the top: a guide Alexander Abramov, ........... from Morocco, Cecil Seriylav from Belgium, as well as Russian citizens Maksim Loginov and Michael Yarin. The ascent took place in a good mood. In a good pace. No one frostbitten. Everything went down happy. Also, we were able to celebrate this event and to celebrate the birthday of our chef cook, Anna, wife of Danila. That’s all, good bye! Tomorrow the team members fly home.

Russia Today Published: 05 July, 2012, 16:55

The Skyrunning World Series event on Europe’s highest peak, Mount Elbrus, turned into a battle between the extreme sport trendsetters Italy’s Marco de Gasperi and Luis Hernandez of Spain.

­When it comes to sport, human beings can perform wonders at sea level. But, at above two and a half thousand meters, altitude sickness becomes an issue – and a good tip to avoid it is to climb up slowly.

But this advice is not for the skyrunners, who gathered on the slopes of Europe's highest mountain, in Russia’s Caucasus.

Running in the mountains has been a pastime for thousands of years, but probably very few did it for fun.

Italian Marino Giacometti established skyrunning as a sport in the early 1990s, while his compatriot, forest ranger Marco de Gasperi, is one of its best athletes.

The opening race of this season’s World Series began on the icy slopes of Elbrus, and will end in Spain in November.

Italian de Gasperi was the quickest in the Vertical Kilometer event where athletes run up a height of one thousand meters, with the overall length of the course not exceeding five kilometers.

The 35-year-old beat Luis Hernandez of Spain by a minute, and set a new record in the three thousand meters sector.

However, it was the 35-year-old Spaniard, who claimed revenge, in style, by being the first to touch the peak in the SkyRace.

The runners started from 2,300 meters, aiming to reach the top at a height of 5,642 meters.

It usually takes around nine hours to do it, but Hernandez stopped the clock in less than four hours.

“I used to compete in cross-country skiing and biathlon,” Hernandez said. “As there is little snow in Spain we had to climb high up into the mountains. And I did it quickly. I've always enjoyed the mountains and looking at the scenery. So after quitting biathlon there was no question for me about what to do next.”

Since the first man reached the summit, almost a hundred and fifty years ago, thousands of mountaineers have reached the top. For some, it remains a long-term and tough achievement.

But for those who run above the clouds, it appears to be nothing more than just another challenging, but enjoyable, jog.

July 4, 2012. BERNEWS
Part time Bermuda resident John “JBL” Layfield recently attempted to climb Europe’s highest mountain, with the aim to plant both a WWE and Bermuda flag at the summit.
Mr Layfield, best known as a former WWE professional wrestler, entrepreneur and host of the Fox Business Network’s “Cashin’ In” programme, helped found the charitable Beyond Rugby Bermuda organization to benefit children on the island.

Recently honoured for his work in Bermuda, Mr Layfield’s latest effort is the “Seven Summits Bermuda Challenge” in which the 45-year-old athlete will be attempting to plant a Bermuda flag on the top of the highest peak of every continent in an effort to raise money for kids in Bermuda through the Family Centre.
He started out trying to climb the highest mountain in Europe — Mount Elbrus located in Russia — however had to turn back right before reaching the summit due to weather conditions creating a safety hazard.

Speaking after his recent trip, Mr Layfield said: “I had three goals in trying to climb the highest mountain in Europe, 18,511 feet high Mt Elbrus. I wanted to raise money for the kids I work with daily in Bermuda (Beyond Rugby Bermuda), I wanted to plant a WWE and Bermudian flag on the summit and I wanted to not die. I accomplished two out of the three.

“I’m 45 years old and have had a broken back, four knee surgeries and two herniated discs-so I knew this would not be easy. But, we tell our kids daily that everyone has problems, it’s what you do with what you have that matters. I wasn’t just raising money for the kids; I was doing my best to set an example. We all have mountains to climb, mine ahead of me were just literal.”
Mr Layfield trained for over half a year for Mt Elbrus, and had gotten to where he would do a stair master up to three hours straight. He and his team flew to Moscow, and made their way to the Baksan Valley which is located just north of Georgia and next to Chechnya.

After arriving Mr Layfield saw they took two climbs from base camp and the second to over 15,000 feet to finish their acclimatization. “The second climb was about eight hours and though hurting I made the climbs in good form, I felt great about summit day,” said Mr Layfield.
The actual day arrived, and the team set off in their quest to reach the top of the mountain. ”After climbing for 7 ½ hours we were at the beginning on the “saddle’ between the mountain’s two peaks. I can’t describe the effort these 7-½ hours took to climb,” said Mr Layfield.
“We stopped for lunch and I discovered that my lunch had somehow been squished and ruined. However, we were only about 1,000 feet from the summit-though that 1,000 feet would take 4-5 hours. It looked so close.

“Vladimir had gotten concerned by the weather and was warning us we might have to turn back but now he was adamant. He told us, correctly, that if we continued that we would be caught up by what turned out to be a huge storm. I did not want to turn back, at all.
“We were so close and I had worked so hard, to turn back now was something that didn’t even seem realistic. The summit was so close you could almost touch it.

“Chris reluctantly had agreed with Vladimir. Chris is a mountain veteran who hated to give up on the summit, I was climbing for my kids and the thought of turning back was so hard to digest. However, we finally all agreed that we ran the risk of being stuck on the mountain if we continued. And, my third goal of not dying would have been put in jeopardy.

“I just sat there for some time looking at the summit and thinking of the support that the WWE had given me and the greater goal of helping kids that need it. It was one of the saddest moments of my life,” Mr Layfield continued.

“We turned back. Chris and I both were totally out of gas. Climbing down is almost as hard as climbing up; the snow had softened so we sank into the snow on most steps. At one point we sat down and slid down part of the mountain. Vladimir was helping me so much; Chris’ guide Albert was helping him as well. I don’t ever remember being that spent.

“At one point Vladimir had me take off my crampons and harness and we slid roped together down the mountain with Vladimir behind me to help put on the brakes as we got too fast.
“We made it down at 2pm, half a day after we started. The storm was now setting in and Vladimir was right in his warning and advice. There is a good chance that we could have been in dire trouble if we had continued; we could have easily been stuck on the mountain.

“The storm has closed the mountain and so there is no hope of another summit attempt-I will have to return next summer. My lips bled badly this morning (from exposure) as I tried to brush my teeth and my blisters are so bad I can’t wear shoes, but everything I have wrong is temporary and I just had the wildest week of my life and loved every second of it.
“I did get a great pic with the WWE and flag at over 17,000 feet and got a pic with the Bermuda flag for my kids (and to say thanks to the government there for the support they give our program and to our partner The Family Center).

“I have Kilimanjaro scheduled next in September. My feet will be better than and I will have a couple more months of training and the experience of being at altitude. I plan on making the mountain and then it’s to South America and then to Antarctica all by January. I have Mt Everest scheduled for spring of 2014.

“I tell my kids you can only control what you can control and you can’t worry about what you can’t. I can’t control the weather, but the mountain didn’t break me, so I’m getting geared up for round two. I still plan on making the Seven Summits but realize now why only a few hundred people have ever done it, these are world-class mountains.

“Most importantly I have my WWE and Bermudian flag all packed and ready to go to Africa for round two. We are only just beginning,” finished Mr Layfield.

Our group Luda, Ivam and Max were landing in Talkeetna yesterday. We are waiting for them in Moscow !

July, 1 the team "Alpari on top of the world," Ludmila Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin and Maxim Shakirov descended to the base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. Hence a plane will take them to the mainland any time soon. Climbing can be considered as finished, and finished successfully! Our congratulations to all those who climbed up, and everyone who was fan!

Post to Alpari-life.ru:

Hello, this is Maxim Shakirov.

Our expedition completed its work. Today, we are descended from 4200 m to the airport, where we take an airplane and will be carried to Talkitna. When this happens we do not know, but we know that we went down. All are alive, not to say that healthy. Details from Talkitna. And now we congratulate ourselves on the fourth summits from the seven. We crossed the Rubicon of our project and, in general, satisfied and happy.

And I want to say that nine years ago on the night of 2 to 3 July a very good man gone from us, the climber, the legend - Michael Turkevich. If possible, remember him today.

Hello, embrace.

Alpari team.

Mc-Kinley rename. Murkowski Urges Colleagues to Alaskanize Mount McKinley, Talkeetna Ranger Station.

Senator Lisa Murkowski today pushed for support of her bill that would officially restore the nation’s tallest peak, MountMcKinley, to its traditional Interior Alaska Athabascan name: Denali. In a hearing of the Senate Energy and Natural Resources National Parks Subcommittee, she also advocated for her legislation that would rename the Talkeetna Ranger Station after the first man to summitDenali: Walter Harper. More read >>>>>>>

Oi maamme, Suomi, synnyinmaa, soi, sana kultainen!

The first Finn on the Seven Summits is Atte Miettinen . who climbedMt.Mc-Kinley 12.06.1012

http://www.facebook.com/AtteSevenSummits

Premlata misses Mt McKinley....

Not all climbers make wise decisions when they are 700ft from the summit. A 46-year-old homemaker from Jamshedpur did and one Australian, Krish, knows that it saved his life.

Premlata Agarwal, the oldest Indian woman to ever conquer the Everest, fell agonisingly short of scaling Alaska’s Mt McKinley, popularly known as Denali, on June 3 when she was forced to abort her attempt, just an hour from the peak, to help bring down a fellow climber.

More information >>>>>>>>

British climbers Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock have repeated the huge Slovak Direct on Denali, Alaska.

Houseman has just tweeted:

"Slovak Direct DONE! 4 days of nearly constant snow, a 27hr push, 16hr unplanned.. What an amazing route! WOW!"

The route is a huge 3000m (ish) climb on the steep South Face of Denali, and retreat is near impossible after the first 1000m have been climbed.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67229

American climb 2010

Hello !

This is Ludmila Korobeshko from the expedition on Mount McKinley. Literally 20 minutes ago we were still standing at the top. At 5:00 local time, on time in Alaska, we climbed the highest peak in North America - McKinley, 6194 meters. In principle, the weather was relatively good, but there was snow and wind, and it was very cold. But we made it, we're happy ! We still have a fairly long and difficult descent. But we hope that all goes well. Best regards!

Later we received a message that the climbers successfully descended to the high camp.

 7 Summits Club became friends with a bard Arthur Gladyshev, who sang at our parties inMoscowandSt. Petersburg. We fully supported the idea of record-breaking concert at the mountain summit of Elbrus. At one time this idea was suggested by our other good friend Nick Seleznev. He died in an avalanche in April of this year. His blessed memory this show will be dedicated . 7 Summits Club will try to give organizers the best possible care.

 Festival "BARD-ROCK Elbrus" will be held from 10 to 16 July 2012 in the Elbrus region.

This year we plan a concert on teh "Pastukhov Rocks" (4800 meters above sea level). In 2013 - the concert will be held at the Saddle and on one of the peaks of Elbrus (5642 meters west, 5621 - East). It will be applied for in the "Guinness Book of Records" - the highest concert in the world.

Hello, this is Max.

Still, we got to the height of the assault camp - 5300 meters, and tomorrow we plan to summit. Because we can expect for good weather to the next season. Visibility on the route is about a hundred meters. Normally, you can go. A bit snowing, sometimes, but rarely the sun looks. Later, however, the sun goes away quickly. From the latest adventure - we forgot a gas cylinder. There is a burner that runs on gasoline, but it barely heats the water. Such are our adventures.

In general, I want beer now….

From September 10 to October 20, an expedition of 7 Summits Club will be climbing the Mount of Cho Oyu. Minimum number of participants has been collected, the expedition will be guaranteed. But you can still join us. Welcome!

Program of the expedition

Cho Oyu (8201 m) is the sixth highest mountain in the world, located a short distance to the west from Everest in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal along the Tibetan border.

There's no really technical sections and the objective dangers are close to non-existent. Its relatively easy access makes it an attractive climb for someone with limited time, as it can be attempted in roughly 6 weeks round trip. Base Camp is accessible by jeep and it is possible to reachKathmanduin a very long day from Base Camp.

Because of it's ease of access, ABC is often crowded with a large number of expeditions. Just west of Cho Oyu is the Nangpa La, the old trade route between the Khumbu Sherpas and Tibet.

It was the third such peak climbed, and the first climbed by light expedition and in Autumn. The mountain was first climbed on October 19, 1954 via the north-west ridge by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama of an Austrian expedition. Cho Oyu was the fifth 8000 meters peak to be climbed, after Annapurna in June 1950, Mount Everest, Nanga Parbat and K2.

Alpari-life.ru

Hey everyone!

It’s Lyudmila Korobeshko with “Alpari: On Top of the World”, reporting from Mount McKinley. It’s the 25th of June. The weather this morning was as bad as yesterday, maybe even worse.

When we woke up, our tents were almost completely covered with snow. We had to dig ourselves out. When we sat down to have some breakfast, we heard voices outside the tent. Even in this weather, there were some people brave enough to get some climbing in. We thought we might be able to get a little climbing done ourselves. We packed up our things and headed upwards.

Well… We made it into “Camp Eleven” at 11,000 feet (about 3,600 meters). We’re sitting in camp now, trying to decide what we should do tomorrow. Outside, it looks like the snow isn’t going to let up any time soon.

Alpari-life.ru. Hi ! This is Ludmila Korobeshko from an expedition to Mount McKinley, the project "Alpari on the tops of the world." We are now at an altitude of 3200 meters, just below the camp "11". Today we came here at 1 a.m.. We planned to reach the next camp, but, unfortunately, the weather brought about changes: started very strong snowstorm, visibility is almost zero. Very heavy snowfall, we unearth every 3-4 hours and struggling with torches, that refuse to work.

We have a brave spirit, but, of course, we would like to see the bad weather was over as quickly as possible.

Qobin Completes Seven Summits Seven Continents Expedition

SEPANG, June 21 (Bernama) -- National mountaineer, Muhammad Muqharabbin Mokhtharuddin or Qobin managed to complete the last mission of the Seven Summits Seven Continents Seven Values Expedition by conquering Mount Elbrus, Europe's highest mountain, on June 13.

Following the feat, the 30-year-old has joined the rank of 400 mountaineers worldwide who have completed the Seven Summits Seven Continents expedition so far.

Speaking to reporters on his arrival at the Kuala Lumpur International Airport here Thursday, he said the success was a special gift to Prime Minister Datuk Seri Najib Tun Razak and Malaysians who provided great support for his endeavour.

Qobin started his quest at the world's tallest mountain, Mount Everest (Asian Continent) in 2004 and summitted five other peaks between 2010 and 2012.

He began with Kilimanjaro (African continent) in 2010 and went on to Kosciousko (Australasia), Aconcagua, Argentina (South American continent), Vinson Massif (Antartica) and completed Mc Kinley, Alaska on the North American continent last year.

In October 2012 two helicopters fallen on the slopes of Elbrus had been successfully removed. Vladimir Horev, Test Pilot Enterprise "Rostvertol" led this unique operation. At the same time it was established seven world records at once!

Military ... Mi-8 helicopter crashed in the northern slope of Mount Elbrus July 27, 2010 during a training landing .. Fortunately, there were no casualties, but the machine was left lying on its side, at an altitude of 4820 meters above sea level. . The decision to evacuate the helicopter was taken at government level, which was confirmed in the form of the order of Commander of the Air Force. The operation began in 2010. But then it became clear that the helicopter must first be disassembled into several parts.

In the summer of 2011 two more accidents involving helicopters have taken place on the northern slope of Mount Elbrus. First, a little private "Robinson" made an unsuccessful landing. Then, the KA-27, who unsuccessfully tried to remove the "Robinson".

In October 2011 a large powerful helicopter MI-26 took off fallen MI-8 rom the cliffs Lenz. And later KA-27 was removed from 3500 meters in the western part of Elbrus. The operation was very difficult and risky, but well over.

Fully material can be found in Russian

http://olenalex.livejournal.com/95833.html

Vladimir Horev

Hey everyone!
Today we’re writing to you from Anchorage. That’s right. We’re already in Alaska! We landed just a couple of hours ago. Ivan and I have already had the chance to experience Alaska’s breathtaking beauty a number of times, but this will be Maxim’s first time.
Even though we landed at 1 AM local time (it’s the middle of the day back home in Moscow, 11 time zones away), we were still able to see Alaska’s majestic fjords, snow-capped mountains and pristine lakes as our plane descended. We’re at about the 62nd parallel here, so the sun is out around the clock these days.

We’ve already settled into our hotel. We really need to get some sleep after nearly 24 hours in the air. It will take some time for our bodies to adjust. It’s still the middle of the day in Moscow.
Tomorrow (or maybe it’s more accurate to say today, as it’s already 3 AM) we’re going to stock up on groceries and equipment. In the evening, we’ll fly out to Talkeetna, our last stop before the Kahiltna Glacier.
Everything’s been going great so far!
Lyudmila Korobeshko, Team Alpari

alpari-life.ru

Photos from Los-Angeles