All news - Page 227

Day... May 17, 2017
7 Summits Club Everest 2017 Expedition.
Yesterday, Lakpa Sherpa returned to Base Camp after summiting Everest for the 8th time! New World Record for women!
Our second team is starting today from the Base Camp. With summit day set for May 22nd! Yanush Khohansky is in this team. He is going for the record as well - 7 Summits in 129 days.
Our first team spent the night on North Col (7000 m or 23000 ft) and moving today into 7800 m Camp (25600 ft). Summit day is set for May 19.
Weather is great, condition of the rout is great. All team members are eager to go up! Battle up!

May 14. Yay! Hooray For The 7 Summits Club!!!! There is the first ascent on Everest in 2017!

This is the team of the 7 Summits Club:  Nima Dorji Sherpa (9th time on the top) and the Female World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, climbed Mount Everest 8th time!!! According to her story, the weather was terrible. Fixed ropes were inundated with 50 cm of snow and climbers had to pull out  it from under the snow. Near the summit there was a very strong wind and as a result Lhakpa has moderate frostbites on both cheeks.

Our second team under the leadership of Sergei Larin now  is preparing  to summit climb in the camp ABC 6400 m.

The group under the leadership of Alex Abramov  (first team) went from ABC  back  to the Base camp at 5100 m to recover and after 2 days again to start for the summit.

 The weather on Everest is now not good:  waist-deep snow and heavy wind. From the Nepalese side there is no one summit. From our side we have just a team of Sherpas who fixed rope to the top, a small team from India and our heroic deuce, headed by World record holder - Lhakpa Sherpa...

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alex Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 26. May 12.

The expedition  of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

Friends, we go up to the assault of Mount Everest in about an hour.

The first group is under the leadership of Alex Abramov. Daniil Briman, Eugeny Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Valery Tebiev, Janusz Kochanski. Here's the plan: today, May 12^th  - Middle Camp, 5800. Tomorrow, May 13^th  – camp ABC. The next day, 14^th of May – the North Col, 7000. Then May 15^th  - camp 7700. Then, May 16^th  – camp 8300. Then on 17th of May, the summit bid and descent to 6400. The second group under the leadership of Sergei Larin will go after us, a day later. Wish us Luck!

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alexa Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 24. May 10^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning, the Chinese called us to the feast of cleaning debris. There were a lot of journalists. Then all dispersed. And I happily went to the village Tashijong 4200m, to the other members of the expedition. I slept all day, because there is incredibly much oxygen  here .

Day 25. May 11^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning we decided to go back to the Base camp as the weather like getting better. And many of the expedition had moved to the ABC camp. And here we are at the Base camp. First we were reported that today the Sherpas fixed the ropes to the top. Probably tomorrow we will go up to Middle camp.

Alexander Abramov has sent photographs illustrating previous posts. It was the second acclimatization exit, during which the team climbed to the camp on the North Saddle (North Col) and spent a night there. Everything goes according to the plan, and today our team is celebrating the Victory Day in the base camp...

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:  

For All, Nepali Hello! After yesterday's ascent on Mera Peak, today we successfully evacuated by helicopter to Lukla. Most of the team immediately flew to Kathmandu and then home, the program is completed. Others, who think it is not enough, went for a walk towards Namche and beyond. And the one, who loves to run, was lucky to see over both days Everest from two different angles: yesterday – from Mera Peak, today from the view point above Namche Bazaar.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the North Col camp:

Day 21. May 7. The Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning our whole team was ready to quickly run to the North Col for acclimatization. But then from the heaven came the order came to organize Puja. All expeditions have a mortar, but we do not. Therefore, only 9 am for Nepal time we were able to get out of ABC in the direction of the North Col, 7000 metres. The team was in good condition. Sometimes, though, the criticism sounded in the address of the leader: why go fast, why stand, why not stand, why not go… Difficult to satisfy all 12 people. But I think I managed – experience of old-school.

And here we climbed to the Saddle. Immediately it began to snow. Generally, there is snow falls afternoon every day. Now the wind is almost off, but the crazy snow is predicted for all next week. On the North Col at 7000 meters, we have a cook. And large tent with tables and chairs is installed. Thanks to this comfort, members feel more free. There is even a tent as a toilet. In short, we have a full camp. We all sleep surprisingly  good and excellent. In the morning, the Sherpas got coffee in bed. Now we have a long way down to the base camp. And tomorrow is a Holiday on May 9. We want to organize a Super-Party, which has already become traditional.

Alex Abramov from camp ABC: Day 20. May 6. The expedition of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

 By the way, I slept on my 5800 fine, which indicates a good acclimatization. Yesterday to the Middle camp I came in 4:50. Today, from Middle camp to ABC - 5:30. A good time, given that it was snowing, and the strong wind on the path. Weather was not the best. But in the camp ABC it is cozy. At 6400 – cozy, unbelievable! But it's true. Excellent food, heaters in the tents.

Today  there was a joyful event,  Janusz (Kochanski) join us, our Pole. He just went from Mount Denali, that climbed in the "off season" in April. And already he is here. He is now doing the program "SevenSummits" a second time, as the first in Poland. He also currently completing  by Everest the program "Seven summits" for 4 months. This must be a new world record for speed. All his predecessors beginning with Mount Vinson in late January, and finally climbed Everest in May and then go on Denali in June. And Janusz decided to go to Denali before Everest. And he has a chance to finish high-speed version of the "Seven summits" already on May 20-21. Here are our recorsmen. As Lhakpa Sherpa, who  goes to Everest with our team for the eighth time. And may set a new world record among women.

 I'm going to sleep... Tomorrow we will exit to the North Col for the purpose of acclimatization. And on May 9th we have planned a festive evening in the base camp where we would like to invite all 14 expeditions.

Day 19. 5th of May. The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest 2017.

 First day of second acclimatization. The report from the height of 5800 meters. We will again rise to 5800, 6500 and then to 7000 meters. I reached Middle camp in 4:50.  On the way I spoke with many leaders of expeditions. 7^th of May there will be a meeting on the organization of the route, securing fixed ropes above 8300 meters and to the top. No one wants to do it. The Chinese took it upon themselves last 5 years. But they are always scolded that they do it late. And they don't want to take responsibility now. I also don't want to. And nobody wants that.

I think it is a simple money question. And the Chinese will do as in previous years, but for more money than usual. I can bet!

Hello from Bolivia! For the past three days we have a lot of things  happened. We climbed to the lower hut on Huayna Potosi, where some members understood what the mountain sickness. Still, the altitude (4800 m) had an effect. But, having overcome all the difficulties, the next day we went to the glacier, where we had ice training. And the next day we went to the upper hut on the 5200. From there, after a short and disturbing sleep, we started the climb. And today our group has climbed to the top. Now we are in La Paz, resting and ready to continue the acquaintance with the country.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the base camp:

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

It was the second and final rest day in BC.

On this day for everyone it was not recommended to wash and itch. So everyone just crowded in the Base camp. Cards, table tennis, billiards, TV, internet, beer, coffee well different conversations.

 The day today off,  and  it is good. Tomorrow, we exit to the Camp ABC (6400m) and then to the North Col. Probably there will be no connection for 4 nights. Please wait for more information on return.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of 7 summits Club:

Hello, 7 Summits! Members of the expedition to Mera Peak today took a walk to the pass Mera La, 5400 m. A break in precipitation was short, only half a day. Continues to pour - we even began to like it. Tomorrow we plan a quality rest before leaving for High camp and the summit.

Alex Abramov reporting from Everest!
Day 17th, May 3, 2017
7 Summits Club Everest Expedition 2017.
Legitimate and well deserved rest day.

We slept like rolled over with asphalt paver)). I didn't ever roll or move. Canceled the Wake Up Tea! And we moved the breakfast onto later. Yeah, and out of nowhere... tibetans has started really loud music in the kitchen at the sunrise, like they missed the nepali music soooo much!

I was rolling over and over for 15 minutes and then went on and let the dogs out.... all of them... saved for 10 days. Music has gotten down. It was the most pleasurable half and hour under the sun.
We got Vobla (Sun dried salted fish) for breakfast! Without bear((. Vobla gave us salt and reminded of Motherland!

After breakfast the Monк came by from Rongbuk monastery and we had Pudzha ceremony, blessing of the Camp..

We have a terrific team! After spending serious time in Lotus poster, we finally covered each other with Dzampa flour))

The whole team went down to each chinese noodles and get the blessings from the Monks and we together with Sergey Larin were left in Base Camp to clean and prepare the shower and the souls.

Rest day in not complete without relaxing drinks. The whole team relaxed completely by the end of the day. It's understandable, and it's a necessity, when you are deprived of heat, O2, and overloaded with various irritations... Complete article about that is here http://7summitsclub.com/
Later on the snowfall came down onto Base Camp. Surprise)) The one thing that really makes the difference is our coffeemaker, which unconditionally makes Cappuccinos and Lattes))

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

 Group POZITIV FM climbed on Island Peak!!!! Six of the seven members. Elena was slightly ill so stayed to wait for us down the valley.

Maria Kirienko, member of the group:

2 may 2017, 13:30, Island Peak, 6189 meters above the sea level. Thank you very much to our SUPER guide Vladimir Kotlyar for amazing support!!!

Ivan Pominov, member of the group:

It's a beautiful mountain, a magnificent trek. More than 100 km through the mountains. Great team Positive FM. And incredible guide and friend Vladimir Kotlyar.

 Friends, it was very cool! Thanks to The 7 Summits Club. And most importantly – thanks to the Mountain that allowed!

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from camp ABC: Day 16. May 2.

Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest – 2017.

It rumbled all the night. All members slept poorly:  because the first night sleeping without oxygen or because the wind was really strong. Snow flew into tents, the frost was falling from the roof. It was impossible to sleep. Dream was sticky ...

This morning I woke up and saw the camp covered with snow. Snow flags on the clear summit of Everest complements the landscape. Today, no one will  go up, was the first thought.

And then the Chinese started: 35 clients and 45 Sherpas. The picture is not for the faint of heart. Some Chinese go so slow that doing about one step per 30 seconds. And then stand, breathe. You know what's even more amazing... they will reach the top.

And today we will run down. To warmth and to shower, to the food that is digested. To warm tent and more with the fact that in everyday life you are not considered luxury items.

The first stage of our Oxygen Acclimatization is completed. 6 nights, three of which we  slept with artificial oxygen, rising to a height of ABC – 6400 meters. I want to say that after this test the whole team feels healthy. Nobody coughs and complains about the respiratory system. It is very unusual for Himalayan expeditions. So we will consider the first stage of the expedition successful. Now we have three legitimate days and nights to rest in the base camp.

Alexander Dorozhukov, guide of the 7 summits Club: a group of the 7 Summits Club made acclimatization  outing to the area of the Shelter Eleven. The weather was good. The team is in order.

 Andrey Berezin, guide of  the 7 summits Club: Hello Everyone! Today, a group called Diacarb moved to a Shelter at an altitude of 3900 meters. Where we made acclimatization outing to the altitude of 4200, which was carried out snow training. Weather in output current was changed several times from sunny to severe, with snowfalls...

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from camp ABC: Day 16. May 2. Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest – 2017.

 Morning in the camp ABC was beautiful, the wind is not strong, the sun. All night we were breathing artificial oxygen. All of the participants feel great! Cheerful and fun. All  are ready for new challenges. Celebrate  May Day  by best acclimatization! In the morning, the Sherpas brought tea and coffee in the tent. It was very useful, you can lie still for half an hour, take a nap in a solar-powered tent. 7:30 – Breakfast. 9:00 exit to acclimatize. We reached Crampon point in 55 minutes. The altitude of 6,500 meters. Our team looked much fresher other teams who came up here without  sleeping oxygen.

 Just as we descended to ABC, started  a blizzard, that had filled the whole camp with snow. But we have a good basic tent. No one from the others expedition. So we quietly played cards, having dinner-supper. We talked about life and discussed the plans, in warmth and comfort. All trails were filled with snow. But, thank God, we have planned for tomorrow only the descent to base camp. In warmth and comfort. To the shower in which we are not bathed from the time of departure from Kathmandu. It was necessary to avoid getting sick with pneumonia on high altitude.

 All, once again, happy May Day!

Olga Rumyantseva, guide of 7 summits Club: Today our group left La Paz. We went on the Lake Titicaca island of the Sun. On the way we stopped at a Museum built on the site where Thor Heyerdahl with local people built the boat RA2. And on the outskirts of La Paz we saw Huayna Potosi in the distance – it is our goal!

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of 7 summits Club.

 Namaste 7 Summits! Here is a group Mera Peak. We finally got to multimedia communication area. The expedition goes according to plan, came to the town of Khote, where we dried. Pours and pours on us more than it must be accjrding the program, really abundant.  But  we even saw our target – Mera Peak, in the interval of clear sky. From the unusual: we sang the hymn of Russia to the Italian. In his opinion, our national anthem is the most solemn...