All news - Page 253

15th October, in the evening, in the store room of "Active rest" on Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya it was noisy. More than 150 guests shared with our Club the Day of our birth. The whole evening they had to choose between listening and viewing performances, with one side of the hall. And friendly communication with the other side of the hall. It was difficult to catch both.

We will try to restore a little bit of history to the chronology:

of the evening:

Time - October 15 - Thursday 20.00

Location - Moscow, Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya d.7 (Shop "Active Life") m. Prospect Mira

By leading Russian climbers and direct participants of the events

In the Programme:
- The main guest of the evening - "Mr. Everest"
- Project 7 Volcanoes
- Mountain School of 7 Summits Club
- Climbing Mount Everest in Business

And:
- Crimea is Yours
- Alaska is still Ours
- How to climb the Matterhorn

And:
- Summing up 2015
- Awarding of the winners - climbers
- New projects and new plans to capture the mountains

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov  already from Moscow. As you know, we visited  Matterhorn, but we have not climbed it. Two of the guys who came before us in the Matterhorn - and we do not see them. We hope that they all right. Morning, I saw a helicopter flying around the Matterhorn. We hope that they are OK...
I and Luda, we went down to Zermatt, then we climbed Riffelhorn, then we went down to Chamonix ... Well, basically, what the reason: there is no people, no trails, rocks in the snow, all the ropes in the ice. The main conclusion is that we must climb in the Alps, yes, actually in all the mountains, right in the season.

Hello! Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko from the foot of the Mount of Matterhorn. Now we are, half an hour ago, came to the hut Hёrnli. Chic new hut, and we managed to find a winter bay. It was on the second floor and have to climb the stairs.
Well everything is inside: 20 beds, light, of course, a place for cooking and even a battery that works. The only problem is, there's no blankets. It is specially made to how few people there for the night. We  also did not bring sleeping bags...

Lyudmila Korobeshko: We passed climbing up a few hours on the slopes of the mountains of the Gran Paradiso, sinking almost to the waist in the snow. We realized that we did not get to the top to 12 a.m. at such snow and pace. Tired but hungry, we went back to the flooded showers Chamonix.

Guides: Alex Abramov, Valery Babanov and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Alex Abramov from Chamonix:

Today (5th of October) our team had been training on the glacier Mer de Glace on the slopes of Mont Blanc, near the station Helbronner at 3500m. At first, not all members had enough oxygen. Plus, it seems, before us, very few people went there. Therefore, we trample the snow above the knee. Some of us even fell, and as a result actually fall into a crack. It starts a pulling-out or self-rescue.

The result of today: a conclusion that it is better never to fall into a crevasse! It is not the fact that your partner have the strength and ability to get you out into the daylight.

In the evening, it was a small party of songs with guitar and by the fire!

Everybody is happy. Now we go on a training climb on one of the most famous peaks - Grand Paradiso (4061m) in Italy.

Alexander Abramov: Hello! Today - the first day. Our team arrived in Chamonix for Mountain School training. According to the plan, we will hold classes on the movement of glaciers in ropes, pulling  victims out of cracks,  belay and self-belay  on ice and snow.

This event is a continuation of the Mountain School, which was 2 weeks ago in Crimea

 Our team consists of 5 students and 3 mountain guide - Alexander Abramov,  Lyudmila Korobeshko, Valery Babanov. Today we bought the necessary equipment, looked Valery Rozov and Andrey Volkov jumping off cliffs, first time visited a glacier...

....Overall I had the feeling of a light SPA-trekking. We were walking along the route, grandly, within the framework of the notorious African concept of the "pole – pole". Even for me it was too "pole", even though I am not speed-walker, especially after a 3 year hiatus. I was fed to the slaughter, I had to make an effort not to offend the chef, who was perceived to heart, if his almost elephantine portions are not eaten whole. The expression "Kura Niyama" has come into use ( it means "eat meat").

  A Day of  climbing in general did not violate the SPA concept, I slept on the way to the top, the benefit that the rate was not high, woke up only at the last rocky part, thanks to a team of Scandinavians, our only companions that day. They were very sentimental, some even cried, when he came to the top plate...  Down  it was to 3300 m long and tiring walking, but we did it at last.

 Carnivor and a national park have been a great success.

The positive "no": I did not wait for the arrival of mountain sickness, did not use medical insurance. The negative "not" - have not lost weight ( thanks to the chef))).

But, as they say, Hakuna Matata...

 Thanks all for the nice trip!...

Yesterday we held the grand opening of a new route (multipitch) in the Crimea. It was given the name of Gornyashka (Mountain Sickness or Madness, and the name of our information project). It's 8 climbing pitches, estimated difficulty - 6A.

Our guides Crimean Alexander Marinkevich and Natalia Kartashova prepared this route situated in the valley ofr Uch-Kosh (the first route in this gorge).

Congratulations to Nikolai Stepanenko with the International Tourism Day and Happy Birthday! These events, his friends Misha Turovsky and Vadim Nadvodnyuk noted by an ascent to the summit of Toubkal in Morocco! Everybody is happy!

It was a soccess, we return home with great satisfaction. Three days of hard climbing and hard evening, we are happy!

We climbed rock routes by several groups in differet parts of Crimea. It was great day. Look at happy faces...

Pictures and text by our friend, a guide Andrey Almazov 

Andrey Filkov completed his collection of climbing the highest volcanoes of the world. He made a successful ascent to the highest volcano of Asia Mount Demavend. We heartily congratulate him!

Our great friend, a member of the 7 Summits Club, fellow numerous expeditions, Andrey Filkov reached his next peak. It all started with a crazy idea - to climb Mount Everest a simple, sporty and wealthy man ... and went and went. Andrey - a serious and consistent man, a graduate as a physicist (!), a successful businessman. So he quickly learned how to behave in the mountains. His success is no surprise. Although we are still a bit surprised that Andrey over the years has become a real climber who goes beyond challenging routes program. And just as they say, from climbing motives.

List of Seven Volcanoes

 Orizaba, 02/05/2007

Elbrus, 19/07/2007

Kilimanjaro, 23/10/2007

Ojos del Salado, 02/13/2013

Giluwe, 10/21/2013

Sidley, 12/28/2013

Demavend - 09/20/2015

The Seven volcanoes program is successfully completed by not so many people, six climbers. Except for one, all are ours, from the 7 Summits Club.

What do wish Andrey? New challenges, new horizons to be achieved, a new dream!

Photos from Facebook of our hero:

More than ten participants gathered for this autumn trip on rocks. By the way, we plan to make it as a tradition. Most of the participants - are active members of our club and constantly involved in our expeditions.

The Captain of Club Alex Abramov leads the program personally. Early this morning he flew to Simferopol. Most of the participants were already at that time in the Crimea, they arrived a little earlier. Alex was delayed due to the participation in the demonstration of the film "Everest". Immediately upon arrival, he began his work, immediately went to the rocks with the guys to train, train and train again!

Some pictures from our previos Crimea training sessions:

Director General of the project Snob Marina Gevorgyan participated in the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest in 2015. As is known, the expedition was aborted due to a strong earthquake. Marina hopes to return to Everest next year ....

Those who are trying to become the same height as the mountain, the mountain will prove your strength by many of ways. Especially if you are a woman who dare to embark on this path.

April 25th. Rongbuk Monastery, Everest Base Camp. Earthquake

In the morning a part of our expedition team is starting to the second acclimatization outing, now to the advanced base camp ABC at the altitude of 6400 m. I go with the TV crew of Valdis to visit the old monastery Rongbuk. From here until the destruction of the monastery in 1974, all successful and tragic Everest expedition went up the mountain. Rongbuk now is partially restored, there live some monks. The crew installs the equipment on a small platform at the top of the monastery, prepare shooting. Valdis notes that descends from the slopes of a herd of mountain goats. I'm going with a friend in the prayer room of the monastery. I was offered to go down to the cave. May be it was an animal instinct - I refuse.

Within seconds the ceiling above us begins to shake, the floor out from under his feet. We have run out of the room, a meter away from us is crumbling walls of the monastery. It comes the realization: Earthquake! I have experienced similar, so quickly guided. Female Tibetan women, picked up on the hands of a pretty adult daughter for a few seconds escapes from the height of the monastery. We also run down the track. However, where we have been ten minutes earlier, lies a huge boulder. We have to traverse virtually fly head over heels. Then we were waiting for the film crew. It takes an incredibly long ten minutes. Everyone in the group is alive, everybody went down, even the equipment is not damaged. They continued to shoot. We return to the camp

Most of the expedition had already gone up, there is no communication with them. I call home, managing to talk to my mother before she heard the news of the devastating earthquake in Nepal force of nearly eight points. Alexander (Alex) Abramov goes up the valley for the group. We pray for them and all those who is at this moment up at the narrow paths and glacier. By the end of the day we feel a few new tremors. There is no panic, we read news on internet, one becomes aware of the scale of the disaster. In the evening, Alex reported that the group is together , all are alive. None of the other groups, too, was not injured. The night was without sleep because of the uncertainty and experiences of those at the top. We understand that in this area we are now in the most successful place in tents on the plateau.

Read all in Russian

Night photo of advanced base camp ABC on Everest

No words.... The group of 25 clients and many guides (Alex Abramov as a leader) climbed the peak in harsh conditions...

Alexander Abramov continues to work with a large group of corporate customers under the special program ....

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from Kazakhstan, from the mountain camp Tuyuk-Su. Today our team with guides, in the amount of 25 people, made a successful ascent to the peak of Chimbulak. The climb was not as simple as we thought. We walked in ropes, wearing helmets on a quite ruined ridge. The height of the peak is about 3500 meters. All members did it, although for some it was quite hard. Today we spend the night in Tuyuk-Su and at night we go out on the ascent to the peak of Molodejny (Youth), which will take us probably hours 12. After that we will go down in Alma-Ata. All are doing well. Also today we had a lecture about a command formation...

Listen to audio message:

Photos by Alexander Abramov and Andrey Almazov

The film is based on real events on the Everest expedition in 1996. About this tragedy has been written a lot. I think almost all person related to mountaineering read a book of Krakauer or Bukreev, partially representing the two different points of view. And it was interesting how it will be present the events of those long years.

In Russia as for whole World, the official premiere is scheduled for September 24.

Now, there were screenings for the press, private screenings for experts in climbing ...
So yesterday evening there was an event organized by the Mountaineering Federation of Russia special for climbers before the premiere of the film, and the presentation of a new book by Ivan Dusharin "Stalkers of highlands."

Ivan Dusharin as always been smart, cheerful and happy, signed autographs and took pictures.
We barely managed to distract him for a photo session.
And here we are - mountain guides related to Everest, if not direct, then to commercial mountaineering. Four of the seven – many times climbed Mount Everest. While we were with Dennis, and Artem not spoiled the statistics, we counted 11 Everest climbs for four.

And now about the film ...

Heavy film. It's not entertaining humorous "Vertical Limit", not the usual Hollywood action.

Yes, there were certainly hacks. Not going to climb to eight thousand for half an hour. For half an hour that only for shoes lace does. Yes, there are some inaccuracies in gear and clothing. But the general that does not change the main.

In the film, there is no good and bad persons, there are no heroes and villains. There are the organizers of commercial climbing Everest, guides, Sherpas, the clients and the mountain, which does not care about all these human ambitions.

The film does not answer the question "Why". Rather, as the options are three different answers from the participants of expeditions: because there is a project of the 7 Summits, and it remained as the last; because at home it's not nice, but here is a happiness; because one realizing his dream you could inspire children in a small town ...

I think all this is nothing and explains nothing.

The film simply shows how it all happens. The streets of Kathmandu, mountain slopes, narrow hanging bridges - we have all seen it, the way it is. It shows how Buddhist flags fluttering in the wind; How is the snow; as people move jumars along the rope barely moving the legs. How to crawl to the top; how guides sign his own death warrant, choosing between what they must do and the desire to bring the person to the top. How does a man become a rag doll, unable to take a step; those who were at the bottom, understand everything, but can not do anything; and how, in the end, to die: at one point making a wrong move or slow freezing ...

It shows all the way as it is.

The company 7 Summits Club, where I work - one of the few in the world that has for decades organized annually commercial ascents of Everest.
Over the years I have seen a lot of things. People who have never been in the mountains, in two or three years carried out their dream to climb Everest. Adventurers who have asked to take them on an expedition without any experience. And this annual tension in the two days of climbing: how is it? did it? no? went down? what is the prognosis?

And there were those who died during the climb. And those who were miraculously saved. And the guides who did everything that people were on the top. And the same situation when climbing continued despite the fact that all the possible time limits have been exhausted.

This film is about us. About what all this could turn. Yes, normal companies are now much more seriously organize the expedition. More guides, sherpas, enough oxygen, fixed ropes. But the man - only a small dot on the mountain ... It is only here, on the plain, all of us - the universe. And there, on Everest - a speck of dust. The wind blew, and there was no man ...

Of course, it will be interesting to know opinions of people that are far from the mountains, after watching this movie.
On the evening there were mostly mountaineers. And if in the beginning, everyone was cheerful and animated, after watching they left the hall in silence and a bit depressed.

And I ... I had a strong desire for the next call, "Hello, I want to go to Everest" answer: "What? You are crazy? Do not go there ..."

Alex Abramov: Today guides of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov and Anastasia Kuznetsova and project participant Natalia Matusowa, arrived in the city of Alma-Ata ... We do not even know how much we have friends in Almaty ... they are much more than we expected . .... I have been not here about 30 years. Everything had changed, but the mountains remain the same. ..

First, we went to the ski resort Chimbulak with our friend Maksut Zhumayev. This place became about the level of good European resort.

Then we need to say a big thank to Yaroslav Sabyrbaev who met us, showed the city, fed dinner ...

In the evening, we were the center of attention at the pre-premiere of the film Everest. We were together with the leading climbers of the country. Among them, our friends on the expedition in 2007 Maksut Zhumayev and Vasily Pivtsov.

Tomorrow a group of corporate clients arrives from Moscow and we will begin our work in the mountains.