All news

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Timshel group! We continue our acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. Today we walked to the Refuge of Eleven, held training how to use an ice axe. And they also mastered the climbing in crampons.  The weather was beautiful today, it got warmer, the views are excellent. We continue further.

Successful ascent of Mount Everest as part of the 8000 Club group (head Viktor Volodin) Denis Grachev has completed a program of ascents to the highest peaks of all continents -The Seven Summits. Congratulations! Denis did it "according to Kosciuszko's version." Therefore, we not only congratulate him, but also invite him to join our expedition to the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid next year.

Denis is 50 years old, a Muscovite, a veteran of law enforcement agencies, and professes a lifestyle that is sympathetic to us. That is, adventures of various kinds. Motorcycle, parachute, mountaineering…

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the new group "Timshel" from the Elbrus region! Today we started to acclimatize on the slopes of Mount Cheget. The weather is good, the views are gorgeous, it's cool in May. We continue to walk on…

 On May 10th, about ten days ago, an assault attempt was made on Kangchenjunga. The expedition members followed the ropes group from camp 7300. But from the height of 7800, everyone went down - huge snows, the danger of avalanches, stormy winds. The mountain was never hung with fixed ropes to the top.

On May 18, four Sherpas tried to break through from Camp 2 (6,400) to Camp 3 (7,300), and double-check the ropes that had gone under the snow. They couldn't. Today, the enlarged ropes team tried again - unsuccessfully.

 Sergey Seliverstov and Alina Pekova continue to stay at the base camp at 5500. Alla Mishin was taken out successfully and literally by accident on an insurance sanitary flight. The treatment in Kathmandu went without problems, but it is impossible to return back in a reasonable way: the mountain is too far away, difficult, high and unpopular. There are no passing flights, a separate flight costs $ 6,500 and there has been no weather that will allow it to fly a very long distance, four five thousand passes along the way, for a week. As a result, Alla dropped out of the Kanche team. Sergey and Alina continue to keep fit, making training rotations to 6200, still waiting for the weather window.

All namaste from the Himalayas! Due to the lack of communication, and sometimes even strength, it was not possible to transmit information. So, the 8000 Club group went to Camp 1 on May 12 and, having successfully overcome the Khumbu icefall, reached its goal. On May 13th, we slowly move to Camp 2, the weather is pleasant and hot. On May 14th, the march is simple at first, and then we arrive at Camp 3 on steep ice. What is pleasing is that there are practically no people on the route. May 15th is one of the hardest and longest days, but nevertheless, we reach the South Col. However, not all of us.  Leonid, before the Camp of Route 4 on Lhotse, decides to stop climbing and go down. Everyone else reaches Camp 4 safely on a Saddle. And then it began: a strong wind tearing the tents that day does not even allow us to stick out our noses, let alone go out to storm. On May 16th, in the morning, we sit and hold tents, the wind has played out in earnest. According to the forecast, there should be a lull in the evening, and we decide to start a storm at 21 o'clock. Unfortunately, as often happens, the Hydrometeorological Center slightly failed. The wind is still strong. We don't have the energy, time, and everything else to wait any longer. And we decide to move out into the night. The frosty wind, burning our face and fingers, tries to stop us, but the thirst for victory and the desire to see the whole world from a height of 8848 m pushes the team to the top. And at 7.40 Nepali time on May 17th, Adrian, Denis, Konstantin and Sergey, as well as the Sherpas accompanying them, climbed to the top. Further, the strong wind does not stop and the long but pleasant road down to home, family and friends. Descent to Camp 2 and 1, Base camp, flight to Lukla and Kathmandu. The team's guide is Viktor Volodin.

Alexander Abramov, Expedition Leader, President of the 7 Summits Club: We're all at Base Camp. And we are already waiting for the helicopter in Kathmandu. Everyone is happy. The team is great!

Dmitry Moskalev on Lhotse

The Everest climbers from the 8000 Club team with their leader Viktor Volodin safely descended from Camp 2 through the icefall and arrived at the Base Camp. A solemn meeting was arranged for the heroes here and in the evening they received diplomas on climbing the highest peak in the World. Alex Abramov's team descended from the summit of Mount Everest after successfully climbing to Camp 2 for the night. Dmitry Moskalev came down here from the summit of Lhotse.  We are waiting for everyone at the Base Camp tomorrow!

 This morning we received a message that Alexander Abramov's team climbed the summit of Mount Everest and began the descent. They reached the camp on the South Col.

Dmitry Moskalev reached the summit of Lhotse. He is also on the descent. We are waiting for further information.

Alexander Dorojukov, s guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! We did it! At 8.50 a.m., the whole team ascended to the top of Mount Elbrus. It was very cold, but there was no wind. This season, mountain views were opened for the first time. All well done, all for orders!

 This morning, the ascent on the summit of Mount Everest was made by members of the 8000 Club group Adrian Ahritculesei (Romania), Denis Grachev, Sergey Mikhalev and Konstantin Simon. Now this group, together with Viktor Volodin, spends the night in Camp 2 at an altitude of 6500. Alex Abramov's group went up to the assault camp and was already supposed to go on the ascent. Dmitry Moskalev also went up to the assault camp. But he has a different aim and a different camp. He must go out to storm the summit of Lhotse. Good luck to everyone!

 Andrey Kravchenko spent some time counting between his projects "Seven Summits" and "Seven Volcanoes". And the score was 4:4. But then the volcanoes made a winning leap. In any case, Andrey turned out to be the winner. After yesterday's ascent of Mount Giluwe, the highest volcano on the Australian continent, as part of the Sun Shine 7 Summits Club group, the Seven Volcanoes program is completed! Andrey will be ranked 46th in the World and 14th in Russia in the list of heroes. We are the leaders! More than 30% are our compatriots. And we plan to increase this percentage. Two groups have already been formed for the upcoming season by the 7 Summits Club!

 Well, we wish Andrey to even the score!  We know that in his plans there are three missing Summits Carstensz, Everest and Denali. If there are no subjective (political) problems, we are sure that he will cope.

Olga Rumyantseva, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

On the last day of the trip to Papua New Guinea, the Sun Shine group visited three villages, where we looked at various outfits and dances of the inhabitants of Papua.

Of course, none of them walk like that now, but they preserve traditions, passing on legends and related dances from generation to generation.

And in the evening, all the climbers on Giluwe received well-deserved awards - diplomas and medals.

News from Everest. Viktor Volodin's group (8000 Club) is going to storm Mount Everest from Camp 4 on the Southern Saddle at 9 p.m. today. The wind, due to which there have been no ascents for three days, is subsiding. As it was predicted. Unfortunately, Leonid decided to end the expedition. He has already safely descended to the base camp.

 Alex Abramov's group (the 7 Summits Club) in full force went up to Camp 3 and is now resting.

This simply does not happen on the Giluve volcano! So that during the two days of approach and ascent we never put on raincoats. On the first day, we reached the base camp by a rapid march through the jungles and swamps. In the evening, we worked out the movement in ropes, simultaneously learning how to knit the necessary knots. And the very next day our group "Sun Shine" fully justified its name. Dressed only in longsleeves, under the sun, we admired the views from the top of the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania!

The ascent was wonderful, everyone worked smoothly, and the ropes did not slow down the progress. We quickly went down to the camp, packed up our things and ran to the bus, which took us, satisfied, to the shower and bed.

The gala evening with the presentation of medals is scheduled for the next day. But now we sincerely congratulate the team from Uzbekistan, the members in our expedition became the first representatives of their country at the summit of Giluwe! And, of course, Andrey Kravchenko, who completed the Seven Volcanoes program!  Hurrah!

Guides Boris Egorov, Olga Rumyantseva and Maria Besogonova.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! We walked on the Pastukhov Rocks today. The weather was cheerful, a blizzard drove us from the bottom of the cliffs. When we left the cable car station, everything was fine. But alas, these are mountains, the weather changes very quickly.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

There's a very strong wind up there today, it's been blowing all night. Our team decided to spend another day at an altitude of 6500m in Camp 2.

Viktor Volodin's team went to Camp 4 on the South Col. I think there is a strong wind there now.

We will go to Camp 3 tomorrow. We are resting today.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! Continuing our acclimatization, today we went up to the Refuge of Eleven, where we conducted snow and ice classes. We rode on the ass, as in childhood, snapped carabiners on a rope. Unfortunately, the weather does not allow us to see all the beauty of the surrounding mountains. But it's good that at least it's not very cold.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 After a good rest, our team went out to storm Mount Everest. Many expeditions to 8000 meters were canceled or ended in failure. We hope that our experience will help us.

 So, our schedule:

May 14 - Camp 2

May 15 - Camp 3

May 16 - South Saddle

May 17 ascent and descent to Camp 2

May 18 descent to the Base Camp

On May 19th, wait for us in Kathmandu.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! Today we started our acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Cheget. The weather is unstable and constantly changing. Sometimes it snows, sometimes it rains, sometimes the sun is shown through the clouds. We went up to the Ai cafe at a height of 2700 m, ate chebureks with different berries. And we went down to the hotel. We're moving on tomorrow.