All news: 10 September 2019

On September 4, a group of six people climbed to the top of Mount Breithorn (4164 meters), located on the border of Switzerland and Italy.  A young girl disabled Zlata Varlamova, a wheelchair user  from the age of three was among the climbers. It is her first and (so far) only summit. A small expedition to the Alps is organized by the club "Extreme Velsk", which is headed by our friend, climber on the "Seven summits" Andrei Podolyan. He personally and two of his companions together with Alpine guides prepared a route for Zlata's ascent. She climbed on jumar and a sledge on the fixed ropes.

The club "Extreme Velsk"  and Zlata express their gratitude to the 7 Summits Club and personally guide Maxim Foygel  for help and organization of this event!

Manaslu. Days 7-8. September 9-10. The first acclimatization rotation outing at 5700 (to camp 1).

The morning of 9 September began with the Puja - blessing of the camp. At 6 a.m. Lama came from a neighboring expedition and began to read prayers. Our Sherpas built a stupa for the Puja. By 8 a.m. all members of the expedition gathered near the stupa. They brought equipment for the consecration and donations.

We lit a fire, the smoke went towards the mountain, which is considered a good sign. Drank the sacred drink and at the end of the ceremony castув tsamps toward the stupa.

About 10 am we left the Base camp. To 12 hours we reached the Crampons Point. Then we put on our crampons and went out on the glacier. There are many crevasses, but all are well marked. Bridges are reliable. The last 200 meters we were given a little hard: three consecutive steps. By the way, this year we put the first camp 150 meters higher than usual. But this place is more beautiful  and secure. And part of the route to the second camp is clearly visible - a somewhat frightening icefall with some overhanging.

 We went from basу camp to first in 6 hours. The vertical drop is about 1000 m. in the evening we measured oxygen (from 65 to 85) - on average, normal. We ate soup with chicken and rice. The first camp we have quite comfortable - there is a dining tent, sleep two in sleeping tents, and even with mattresses. And we allocated to the doctor a separate tent - for his kilograms of medicines. He had already "saved" two members - bandaged sprained wrist and plastered cracked nail.

We didn't sleep so badly. Although almost all had pain in the head, was saved by diacarb and analgesic (with Pentalgin). There were avalanches in the night, but we were almost used to this sound.

In the morning after breakfast we worked with avalanche sensors. Members quickly found everything that Dr. Larin had hidden. And then we all ran down the valley together. We reached the base camp in less than two hours - we really wanted to go to the bath.

Now we wash, rest, gain strength before the second more difficult rotation.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the refuge "National Park".   After lunch, they went to snow and ice training classes, where they mastered the technique of self-arresting with an ice axe and movement on fixed ropes. Tomorrow we plan next rotation of the Pastukhov Rocks. Guides:  Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov.