All news: 2011

The whole group went down to Mendoza, after a hard climb of Aconcagua. Strong winds brought a lot of trouble to our climbers. Six of our climbers were forced to go down faster than expected. They benefited from a rescue helicopter, as they had frostbite. No serious injuries, but for any risk elimination. The group is now preparing to celebrate the birthday of our best, beloved guide Viktor Bobkov. He is 50 years old. We wish him health and new summits !

Reached the summit: Denis Abuev, Igor Barabeshkin, Alexey Boutin, Alexander Viktorov, Igor Kadochin Pavel Laktyushkin, Boris Pavlov, Igor Cherkashin. As well as our guides: Victor Bobock and Olga Rumyantseva, and local woman-guide Mara Bareibo.

Victor Bobok was born in Ukraine in 1961. He has a degree in economics. Victor began mountain climbing in 1978. Master of Sports in mountaineering. In the national team of Russia he has climbed a record route on Everest on the north face in 2004. In 2009, Victor climbed Everest from the south. The first Ukrainian ascended the Seven Summits in 2006. He lives in Moscow and has 6 children.

Call. Short information from Victor Bobok, directly from the summit of Aconcagua. Eight members of the expedition reached the summit: Denis Abuev, Igor Barabeshkin, Alexey Boutin, Alexander Viktorov, Igor Kadochin Pavel Laktyushkin, Boris Pavlov, Igor Cherkashin. As well as our guides: Victor Bobock and Olga Rumyantseva. Plus one local guide, thanks to him ! Weather conditions are very heavy, strong winds, fog and cold. But it was the same all season. The average success rate on Aconcagua at this moment is around 20%. We have - 70% ! We wish to our team a successful descent and waiting forward messages already from lower camps.

Other members of Alexei Vaulin, Nadezhda Goncharuk, Alexander Smirnov and Alexander Savotkina refused to climb for different reasons, but they are okay.

It is the second week of strikes against the rise of gas prices in Punta Arenas and the surrounding areas in southern Chile. All transport routes from the city and in the city are blocked. Barricades. Shops and institutions are closed. Cars and trucks go through the city, continuous signaling, with demonstrators, drumming on pans and basin. Cormorants and penguins huddled on abandoned piers and look with amazement at the crazed city.

 Yesterday, Saturday, 15th of January, we made a second attempt to fly to Antarctica on the Union Glacier. For this purpose it was necessary to walk 25 km through 4 strike cordons. After the passage of the first cordon, our group of 19 people divided into several groups. We were warned that those who will not reach in time - that does not fly. Pensioners went on military equipment (79-year-old former U.S. Senator and former French Prime Minister), the French went by sea. We walked a part of the way between the cordons, then we drove by a passing car, the last segment after the 4 th cordon we went at a luggage truck.

After two hours of waiting in the airport, head of the ALE Company Peter MacDowell announced that a flight is delayed for 3-4 days, due to the breakdown of one of engine. Peter suggested three options: to hang, strangle or shoot himself. Or:

1. Wait for the next departure

2. Move Antarctica for the next season

3. Get their money back.

We chose the first one!

Unfortunately, Michail Karisalov was forced to fly home, ending the expedition, on business reason.

Hello ! I am pleased to greet you from Antarctica. The latest climb was over on January 5, and since then we sit on the Union Glacier camp, expecting our fourth group, which will arrive on the Vinson Massif. And we look forward for Igor Grishkov, which must fly from Punta Arenas to climb Mount Sidley. We, I, Alexander Abramov, who has a birthday today, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri. In the area of Union Glacier is very fun, there are more than 70 people sitting in the camp. Due to the fact that earlier in the week in Chile began rioting and strikes, our team was not able to fly from Punta Arenas. 50 people could not get to the airport. Finally, yesterday, they broke through the barricades, walked 30 km and reached the airport. But it is occurred that a plane engine was broken.

Union Glacier - it's just an ideal place for mountaineering in Antarctica. Around is a set of mountains, which no one has yet climbed. Many climbers make ascents right now.

A lot of interesting people is now in the camp. Every day, everyone gathers in a large tent, where there is a big TV, computers. People regularly give lectures, telling what they know about Antarctica, about the world around us, about the Globe, about global problems. We watch movies, play cards. Perfect weather, no wind, the sun shines. Snow shines around. The temperature outside is minus five - minus twelve, and in tents - plus. We are here for 11-12 days, in principle, we do not complain. We are fed well. So do not worry for us. We are waiting for the next group and still hope. .

Igor Grishkov came in this Chilean city the first from this group. He should go with Alex Abramov to the highest volcanoes of the Antarctic continent, Mount Sidley. Then he, with Andrei Belov (a pilot of IL-76), met the rest of the group, going on Mount Vinson. This is Michael Karisalov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Nikolai Stepanenko, Mikhail Turovsky.. In this group, all members are experienced hikers and climbers, so they are easy to learn in this southern city, visited penguins, well, the best local restaurants. As long as everything goes according to plan and perhaps a few hours later they were already fly to Antarctica.

Alex Abramov with Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri rest on the base camp of Union Glacier. In warm and comfortable conditions, they are preparing for a new challenge, flight to the enigmatic volcano Sidley. Alex Abramov have a lot of talking with the guides from other companies. So Abramov is discussed with Vern Tejas a new idea: to sail to Antarctica on a yacht, then to ascend the Erebus and then go by ski to the South Pole. Cool idea !

Maxim Bogatyrev remains at the base camp of Vinson, protets tents and waits for an arrival of friends. .

HIGH RISK: Lonnie Dupre cites historic climbers as inspiration. January 7th, 2011-- Polar explorer Lonnie Dupre departed today for the Kahiltna Glacier located at the base of Denali, aka Mount McKinley, in Alaska. Dupre is attempting the first solo January ascent of Denali.

By adn.com. A Minnesota man known for his polar adventures got an extra day Wednesday to think about -- and fatten up for -- his quest to become the first person to make a solo ascent of Mount McKinley in the dead of winter.

A storm delayed Lonnie Dupre's plans to leave Talkeetna for the mountain. He said in a telephone interview that he'd use the time to shovel in more calories to fuel his body for a trek that is likely to last three or four weeks.

If the delay also fueled his anxiety over the high-risk climb, he wasn't letting on.

"It's good to have a little bit of nervousness going into it, because you always have that going into a project that's on the edge," Dupre, 49, said. "But once you get there and kind of get in tune with your environment, then you begin relaxing.

"... I'm not even thinking about the summit, actually. I'm just thinking about getting out there and doing some winter camping and moving my little legs in the right direction."

Dupre hopes to go where few men and no women have gone before: to the top of 20,320-foot McKinley in the winter.

To make things more interesting, he plans to go alone and in January -- something that only a few others have tried, none of them successfully.

Of the 16 people who have stood atop McKinley between the winter solstice and the spring equinox, only four made the trip alone, and the body of the first -- Japan's Naomi Uemura, who died on his descent -- remains somewhere on the mountain.

Only one team has reached the summit in January, when 5 1/2 hours is it for daylight -- Russians Artur Testov and Vladimir Ananich on Jan. 16, 1998. On March 8 of that same year, Japan's Masatoshi Kuriaki reached the summit to become the fourth man to make a solo winter ascent.

No one has successfully climbed North America's tallest peak in the winter since then, though there have been several attempts.

"We always seem to have anywhere from one to four or five people each winter," said Missy Smothers of the Denali Park Service. "It's exciting, but we always hold our breath."

And for good reason.

There are no rangers and no base camp operations on McKinley during the winter, when whiteouts, howling winds and deep snow make travel more treacherous than usual. Of the 16 who have summited in the winter, two died on their way down. Another four died on their way up, including a member of the expedition that put Dave Johnston, Art Davidson and Ray Genet on the summit in March 1967, marking the first winter ascent of the mountain.

Dupre, who lives in Grand Marais, Minn., knew about some of Denali's winter history when he decided this summer, shortly after his first McKinley climb, to make a solo winter attempt.

"Actually, Naomi Uemura was an inspiration to me years ago because he was first a polar explorer," Dupre said. "I knew about his death on Mount McKinley back in 1984, and it's always been on mind -- Naomi and that mountain -- since 1984."

Dupre worked as a commercial fisherman in Bristol Bay from 1983 to 1986, a period during which he spent the winter of 1985 by himself in the Brooks Range.

"That started everything rolling," he said. "I've been running around the Arctic and polar regions now for 25 years."

Dupre's resume is an impressive one. In 2006, he and Eric Larsen of Grand Marais traveled 600 miles from Canada to the North Pole, pulling and paddling canoes over shifting sea ice. In 2001 he and John Hoelscher of Australia became the first people to circumnavigate Greenland, dogsledding and kayaking the 6,517 miles in three stages. In the winter of 1991-92, he and Malcolm Vance of Shishmaref mushed 3,000 miles from Prudhoe Bay to Churchill, Manitoba. And in 1989, he was a member of the Bering Bridge Expedition that mushed and skied 1,000 miles along the Siberian and Alaska coasts.

"I love winter," Dupre said.

He knows how to travel, camp and survive in temperatures that plummet well below zero.

But he isn't a mountain climber.

"I did a little training prior to June and then came to Denali," Dupre said. "We had some basics of mountaineering, and we just decided to be cautious and take our time and we were successful. We made it to the summit in 13 days.

"... As I was traveling up the mountain, I started thinking maybe I should make an attempt to do Denali in the winter."

Along the way, Dupre met Vern Tejas, who in March 1988 became the first person to make a successful solo winter ascent of McKinley. Uemura made it to the top of Denali on his solo trip in February 1984, but because he died on his way down, his is not considered a "successful" ascent.

"I visited with Vern quite a bit on Denali last spring," Dupre said. "I picked his brain a little about snow caves and about the route."

Back in Minnesota after his climb, Dupre started planning a return trip to McKinley. He contacted Tejas and Testov, who may be Denali's most experienced winter climber, having made four attempts and succeeding once. Last March, Testov and partner Christine Feret spent 12 days trapped in a snow cave at 10,000 feet before turning back.

"We threw a bunch of information back and forth, and I think I've got a good game plan," Dupre said.

Dupre said he chose to climb in January not so much because he could make history with the first solo ascent in the dead of winter but because he thinks he might get better weather than if he waited until February or March, when there is more daylight.

"I've done a lot of travel in the winter, and the dark part doesn't bother me," he said. "When I did a little research, I learned there's a little less precipitation in January, which means less snow, which means better visibility."

He'll pull a sled packed with 175 pounds of gear and supplies up the popular West Buttress route. He said he has enough food and fuel to last 38 days, though he's hopeful he won't be on the mountain that long.

"My first goal is the 7,800 (foot) mark, which is before you start climbing up the glacier," Dupre said.

After that, his plan includes stops at 9,700 feet, 11,200 feet, 13,500 feet, 14,200 feet, 17,200 feet, "and then the summit," he said.

Mount McKinley winter ascents

A climb is considered a winter ascent if the summit day falls between the Dec. 21 winter solstice and the March 21 spring equinox. Though numerous winter attempts have been made, only 16 climbers have made it to the summit. Six have died in the attempt, including three Japanese climbers who died on the West Buttress somewhere between 16,000 and 18,200 feet on Feb. 22, 1989.

Nine expeditions have put men atop McKinley in the winter:

• Feb. 28, 1967 -- Americans Dave Johnston, Art Davidson and Ray Genet, West Buttress route. Team member Jacques Batkin of France died on the ascent.

• March 7, 1982 -- England's Roger Mear and American Mike Young, Cassin Ridge.

• March 11, 1983 -- American Charlie Sassara and Robert Frank, West Rib. Frank died on the descent.

• Feb. 12, 1984 -- Japan's Naomi Uemura, West Buttress. Uemura vanished on the descent between 16,000 and 18,200 feet. First solo ascent.

• March 7, 1988 -- American Vern Tejas, West Buttress. First successful solo ascent.

• Feb. 20, 1989 -- Austrians Steinmassle Helmut, Helmut Mittermyer and Laserer Walder, West Buttress.

• March 11, 1989 -- American Dave Staeheli, West Rib.

• Jan. 16, 1998 -- Russians Artur Testov and Vladimir Ananich, West Buttress. First ascent in dead of winter.

• March 8, 1998 -- Japan's Masatoshi Kuriaki, West Buttress.

Source: Denali National Park

Our story began with a casual conversation. Ken Huff was telling a friend about the time he climbed Mount Kilimanjaro a few years ago. It was, Huff told his friend, "an absolutely phenomenal experience."

Well, ya think? Kilimanjaro rises 19,341 feet above Tanzania. It is the highest mountain on the continent of Africa; climbers who reach its peak can look down on the clouds.

That experience alone can put any number of things into perspective, including the relative importance of "fame" — in this case, the 11 years Huff spent in the National Football League as a guard for the Baltimore Colts and Washington Redskins.

"You feel so insignificant. You're so high up. You see the majestic view, the sun coming up over the sea of clouds," Huff said. "You realize you really are on top of the world. We're put on this planet — this huge, wonderful planet — and we're just passers-by."

Huff's friend wondered if he'd ever again want to tackle the mountain. He thought about it a moment, then answered, "Yes, if we did it for a reason instead of just doing it."

Grand ideas are born from such moments. Huff, indeed, is going back to Kilimanjaro in February and he'll take several companions along for the climb, among them former Buffalo Bills and Hall of Fame guard Joe DeLamielleure, 59, and a gentleman named Tommy Rieman.

Rieman is a sergeant in the U.S. Army and was awarded the Silver Star after he was shot twice and sustained 11 shrapnel wounds during a battle in Iraq. He also helped set up a perimeter during the battle so medics could safely evacuate other wounded.

Rieman spoke at the Hall of Fame dinner when the Super Bowl was in Tampa two years ago. DeLamielleure was in the crowd that day and the two have been friends since.

"Joe's always up for something crazy," Rieman said.

That's certifiable. Recently, DeLamielleure and a couple of college roommates rode bikes about 2,000 miles from Michigan to Mexico for a good cause. It was the first time he had done something like that. Who's going to back down from a mountain now?

"He called me up and said, 'I want you for this,' and I'm like, 'OK,' " Rieman said. "Neither of us has climbed before, but if you can achieve the summit you can do anything. That's the message we're trying to send."

As if surviving two bullets and 11 pieces of shrapnel while saving several fellow soldiers isn't message enough.

"Sometimes when I get introduced, they call me a hero. Hero, my butt," DeLamielleure said. "I'm an entertainer. I'm an offensive guard who played football. Tommy guards our country. Hearing his story got me very motivated."

That's how it works. One step leads to the next one, and now the reason Huff needed to climb Kilimanjaro again has been realized. He and his fellow hikers will raise money to benefit Wounded Warriors, a private operation that provides help to severely injured soldiers.

"I don't think God put me in the Hall of Fame just because I played football," DeLamielleure said. "We can do a lot of good with our notoriety."

If you can think of a better gift in this season of giving, it must be really special.

"Just because someone is wounded, life isn't over," Huff said. "There is still a lot they can do. I played golf about a month ago with a triple-amputee — lost both of his legs and one arm. He has three artificial limbs and he's a single-digit handicapper, and I'm lucky to break 100."

Huff, 57, and friends are counting on the publicity from this climb to spur donations for the cause. They've set up a website — bootsandcleatsonthesummit.com — to provide additional info about the project as well, of course, as a place to contribute money.

There are many Wounded Warrior chapters, including one in Clearwater. You may have seen them at such events as the Gasparilla Distance Classic. They are amazing people, both those who give and those who receive.

That takes us back to the mountain, which serves as both a metaphor for this story and real-life challenge. Kilimanjaro can be tamed, but not without a fight. An estimated one-third of those who try to scale it fall short. Recently, Martina Navratilova abandoned her quest to get to the top when one of her lungs collapsed in the thin air.

"It's the most physically demanding thing I've ever done, all (NFL) training camps included. It's all because of the lack of oxygen and altitude," Huff said.

"The last mile you hike, they wake you up at midnight and you start hiking at 1 a.m. because there's more oxygen in the air at that time. You arrive at the summit at sunrise, above the clouds. It's hard to describe what that is like. You are literally on top of the world."

That's where we came in. Someone asked Ken Huff if he'd climb Kilimanjaro again and he answered yes. All he needed was a reason, and now he has one.

"I just like doing stuff," he said.

It's a lot more than just that.

"People take for granted the freedoms we have," DeLamielleure said. "We have to remember the sacrifice these guys have made for us. We have to help them."

By JOE HENDERSON | The Tampa Tribune  Published: December 24, 2010

January 6, Alexander Abramov, passed the information from the base Union Glacier .. The Polish part of the group had already flown to the mainland. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri are resting on the base. They are waiting for a new group, which is scheduled to be flown the 10 th of January and ready to fly to the area of the volcano Sedley. Maxim Bogatyrev stayed at the base camp of Vinson.

By the way, we congratulate Maxim Bogatyrev with a completion of the project Seven Summits! We wish him to replenish his collection of summits, climb its for second and third time, reach Carstensz, and the Poles!

Actually, it is the entire message. We are very pleased and we congratulate our guides Alexander Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev. And the team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all – Poland), Crina “Coco” Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimeri (Italy).

We hope that all arrive safely at the Union Glacier Base, and then their ways will separate. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri will fly to the other side of Antarctica, to climb the highest volcano of the continent Mount Sidley. Maxim Bogatyrev will our next group on Vinson and the Polish team will fly home.

Good luck!

Hello!

It is Alex Abramov, from Antarctica. Beautiful weather. December, 31 has been changed to January 1, 2011 ... Yesterday we flew to the base camp of Mount Vinson ... Rangers from ALE company gave us a super holiday party. They laid a table just on the snow, out of tents. Can you imagine: the New Year party, which takes place in the sun, among the white snows of Antarctica, among the mountains. View of the Vinson, the weather is pretty ... Vern Tejas played harmonica. All danced who could, we drank champagne, bottles of 6-7, then throw the whiskey in the pot. Here are a few teams: Alpine Ascents, Adventure Consultants, International Mountain Guides ... In general, all Americans, and only we – not Americans. We have a team of Polish, Russian, Romanian and one Italian. Well, in general, international team, mostly talking in Russian, English, Polish, Romanian and Italian .. In general, all are very happy. And tomorrow we're going to move to High Camp. Well, in general, we have fun here ...

Super.

Goodbye!

Photos from 20056 expedition