All news: 2011

New message from Dmitry Ermakov:

"Hi all, this is Dmitry Ermakov from the slopes of the solar Lenin Peak. Our expedition continues. Today we had plan ice training. We learned to use it, climb on an ice wall, everything’s fine.

One of yours members felt  a bit badly and descended to the base camp. Now he is under the supervision of doctors. He has all right, goes the amendment, and will be waiting for us.

Tomorrow we go to the camp 2 on 5300м, we are there to spend the night. The ascent will starts  early at 4 am. The status of all of the group's normal. Buy everyone, till next connection".

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

List of groups:

1 Dmitry Ermakov - guide, expedition leader
2 Sergey Arefiev
3 Alexander Krovikov
4 George V. Kuzmin
5 Alexander Nesterenko
6 Constantine V. Ostapkevich
7 Gregory S. Sadykov

We all say congratulations for our group under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. They now begin the descent from the top. After all the complexity of the weather they were able to ascent to the top today!

our group

Call from the summit of Mon Blanc:

Hello, Alexander Abramov calls from the top of the Mont Blanc, there are eight members and three of our guide. We all ascend!

In the morning the weather was very bad. Actually we delay for 3 hours, instead of the 3 am we went out at 6, and it worked, because the weather became better. You should hear, here is people laugh and rejoice.

In the beginning, when we came out from the camp, was a real snowstorm, and every moment there was such impression, that we get down and turn around. In general, we are on top, wind practically are not present, the sun is shining, everyone is happy, call family and friends. Lists of members, who ascent will be a little later. We begin to descent, in fact descent he is rather complicated and dangerous, so it is too early yet to congratulate us. Contact when go down. Good-bye".

Alex, Noel, Lorenzo

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is a list of members, who ascent to the Mont Blanc today:
1. Simonovic Vitaly
2. Dmitriev Andrey
3. Dmitriev Sergey
4. Romanov Vyacheslav
5. Alexey Soloviev
6. Chan-Sang Anatoly
7. Rogalev Peter
8. Vasily Kolesnikov
First guide Abramov Alexander
guides and assistants:Miller and Oleg Paul Milanov.

So, on Thursday 21 July our expedition to Kamchatka with Club 7 Summits and the company Alpari has been completed.

Unfortunately we have no luck with the weather. Almost all the time there were heavy rains.

However, the songs of the Ra in the guitar, Zhora-radio and dirty dances in the performance of Patrick helped us not hang down our head.
A small story in photographs about how it was:

Day of arrival of the group to Kamchatka 13 July turned out to be extremely successful in terms of the weather.

In the first day immediately from the plane the whole group went to Mount "Camel"

On the first hump of Camel mountain

On the second one

feed the local squirrels - evrazhek

Closer to midnight Avachinsky volcano opened, the one which we had to climb a few hours. But already in full fog and rain((

Ascending to the rop of Avacha was not easy

Rafting river "Fast"

All three days of rafting, we went by in mosquito net, even slept and smoking in them.

The first fish. Kiss for luck

Sometimes feed sooo big fish, which stealing for itself in the middle of the river

The body in the case. The body of the fish

Bathing in the hot springs in Paratunka resort

Our constant companion on the road of Kamchatka - russian big car

The ascent of Gorely volcano. An alternative to acid lake in the crater

At the top of the gorely volcano. Down there is the steep slope to the acid lake

After the sea tour on the Pacific bay I want to fly

There is bad weather in Mont Blanc. The snowfall last for a week. Today the group has quite difficult passage from Tet Rus hut (3167 m) on the rocky ridge at the hut Gute (3817m). Here is what says about this Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition:

But, in the weather forecast, tomorrow, 22 of June the weather will ibe better.

Today Dmitry Ermakov, head of the expedition inform us from the Base camp at the Peak of Lenin and left the following message:

"Hi  to all, this is Ermakov. We are in the Base Camp. We all arrived, now have dinner. All according to plan, everyone is happy, and almost everything is wonderful. Have a nice day, untill next connection tommorow!"

List of groups:

1 Dmitry Ermakov - guide, expedition leader
2 Sergey Arefiev
3 Alexander Krovikov
4 George V. Kuzmin
5 Alexander Nesterenko
6 Constantine V. Ostapkevich
7 Gregory S. Sadykov

We congratulate the participants of the successful ascent and wish  them good weather on the way to the main goal of the expedition.

Yesterday on our answering machine came a new message about the expedition to the Mont Blanc from Alex Abramov:

"Hello, this is Alex Abramov from the expedition on the Mont Blanc. Before the climbing Mont Blanc we had a acclimatization in Zermatt. Today we went up the cable car to the station Klein Matterhorn (the highest in Europe station of the lift - 3883 m) and almost all the members went to the top of the Breithorn Mountain 4 164 m.

What we were pleased to report, in the composition of climbers was Lidia Vasilievna, 65 years old,

and she is for the first time in life came to the mountains. She is the mother of one of our participant Vitaly and today we all were very happy for her. It was hard, not very good weather, but nevertheless the whole team went to the top.

And now, we moved in Courmayeur, we will stay there and tomorrow we rise to Aiguille du Midi and transfer in Chamonix. Here we have such plans. The day after tomorrow we have assumed a day of rest and preparation to leave already for the ascent of Mont Blanc. Good-bye. Wait for new messages."

Last night we got a message from Luda:

"Here is rain falls from the very morning, but even so we did not change our plans and go under the Mutnovsky volcano, where will locate camp. They say that there is now the snow, a lot of snow, but that's okay will dig a snow cave, apparently. We will try today, as all are full of energy to climb the volcano Gorely, tomorrow at Mutnovsky, and then, day after tomorrow, we will have a free day, if things work out, and we will return to Petropavlovsk and we have already ordered night clubs.

Buy everyone".

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Membership of the expedition:

1. Chetvertakov George
2. Safiullina Kadriya
3. Adele Sachkov
4. Fazlutdinova Galina
5. Santos Queiriga Hugo Miguel
6. Olga Svyatkina
7. Efremov, Jaroslav
8. Tatiana Suvorova
9. Kosilov Ivan
10. Mukhametov Ratmir
11. Sidorov, Pavel
12. Skibitskiy Artur
13. Sergei Shurygin
14. Czerwinski Patryk
15. Guide Korobeshko Ludmila

Today we received a new message about the adventures of our group of 7 Summits Club in Kamchatka. That's what Luda tell us:

Hi everybody!

Today, July 17, our team has completed rafting the river called “Fast”. This trip lasted for three days. We covered about a hundred kilometers and more than ten thresholds. Caught more than two dozen fish. Do not hurt no one bear. Today we moved to the base Paratunka for drying and rest. Tomorrow we leave to Mutnovsky base camp.
We have to climb two more Volcano:  “Gorely” and “Mutnovsky”. There is a small difficulty- all the way to Mutnovsky covered with snow, and cars cannot reach the beginning of the route. That means about 28 extra km in the snow.
But we have nothing to fear!

Expedition:

1. Chetvertakov George
2. Safiullina Kadriya
3. Adele Sackov
4. Fazlutdinova Galina
5. Santos Queiriga Hugo Miguel
6. Olga Svyatkina
7. Efremov, Jaroslav
8. Tatiana Suvorova
9. Kosilov Ivan
10. Mukhametov Ratmir
11. Sidorov, Pavel
12. Skibitskiy Arthur
13. Sergei Shurygin
14. Czerwinski Patryk
15. guide Korobeshko Ludmila

Yesterday, on July 13, all the group climb to the top of the volcano Avachinsky 2741. As said Ludmila, the ascent was not easy, in case of a strong fog to rain and snow at the top.

"At the top we look over fumaroles, breathe gases and inspired flew down to the hot sauna and beer. All together ascent and descent took about 11 hours. Today we have a rest, drying things and go to the recreation center of Paratunka. Tomorrow starts rafting down the Bystraya river."

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Chetvertakov George
2. Safiullina Kadriya
3. Adele Sachkov
4. Fazlutdinova Galina
5. Santos Queiriga Hugo Miguel
6. Olga Svyatkina
7. Efremov, Jaroslav
8. Tatiana Suvorova
9. Kosilov Ivan
10. Mukhametov Ratmir
11. Sidorov, Pavel
12. Skibitskiy Artur
13. Sergei Shurygin
14. Czerwinski Patryk
15. Guide Korobeshko Ludmila

It is started  new expedition  of 7 Summits Club and the Company "Alpari" on Kamchatka.

The group departs on Monday. In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky group meets  with guide of 7 Summits Club- Ludmila Korobeshko.

From the airport the group immediately goes under the Avachinsky volcano.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Membership of the expedition:

1. Chetvertakov George
2. Safiullina Kadriya
3. Adele Sachkov
4. Fazlutdinova Galina
5. Santos Queiriga Hugo Miguel
6. Olga Svyatkina
7. Efremov, Jaroslav
8. Tatiana Suvorova
9. Kosilov Ivan
10. Mukhametov Ratmir
11. Sidorov, Pavel
12. Skibitskiy Artur
13. Sergei Shurygin
14. Czerwinski Patryk
15. Guide Korobeshko Ludmila

According to Alexander Abramov, the summit of Everest was climbed by seven members of the expedition 7 Summits Club, guides Victor Bobok and Noel Hanna, and seven Sherpas. We were the first in this decisive day, because we started first. Our team reached the summit about 3:30 local time.

Climbers:

Members of the expedition 7 Summits Club:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov  (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Guides:

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

And our beloved friends Sherpas ( 7 persons)

All day it was snowing, but we have no choice. About 170 people are now in the assault camp. We need to leave early to avoid stuck in traffic jams on the Second step. And tomorrow, according to the forecast, the weather will deteriorate in the middle of the day.  Forecasters promised an almost windless night with a weak clouds. So that the exit is scheduled at 7 p.m. local time (in Tibet - 8 p.m.). All 19 people are preparing for a summit push.

Today, in a day, Tibetan climbers have completed the preparation of route, now the rope fixed up along the whole route to the summit. The way is open. Weather still gives hope for a successful ascent. Wind is within allowable in power. On the scheduled day, it should not worsen. The whole team (8 members, 8 Sherpas and 3 guides) are now in a camp at an altitude of 7800 meters. On May 20, in the morning, they will go to the assault camp at 8,300 m. And the same evening, that is, tomorrow, the whole team should go into the assault of Everest. All are doing well. A. Abramov.

Anna Gatta reports: I just got a phone call from Philippe at camp 4, 7700m. Philippe Gatta, Ludovic Chaleat, Cédric Haelen and 3 Sherpas successfully made a camp 4-summit-camp 4 round trip this night/morning in 11 hours (timing to be confirmed, line was bad). Kangchenjunga, 8586m, is bagged!

Alexia and Ben turned around at 8200m and is now walking down towards camp 3 or even camp 2. The are both fine but I think they felt too tired to go on. Gorgan didn’t feel good enough to start the summit push and went down and might even be in base camp already. Conclusion – everyone are ok, that is what counts.

Christian Stangl and a Russian guy also made the summit.

Philippe will stay in camp 4 today to recover from the tough night and tomorrow everyone will be back in base camp.

 All 19 climbers of the 7 Summits Club expedition on Everest are climbing from the North Col (7000 m) to a camp at an altitude of 7500 meters. Summit bid is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May for whole group. At this time, due to weather conditions, most expeditions have shifted final attemts, both in North and South. However, on the north side, the route to the summit has not yet climbed and fixed with ropes. This is alarming. Tibetan climbers from the local mountaineering association should have been updated all ropes along the route.