All news: May 2011

According to Alexander Abramov, the summit of Everest was climbed by seven members of the expedition 7 Summits Club, guides Victor Bobok and Noel Hanna, and seven Sherpas. We were the first in this decisive day, because we started first. Our team reached the summit about 3:30 local time.

Climbers:

Members of the expedition 7 Summits Club:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov  (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Guides:

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

And our beloved friends Sherpas ( 7 persons)

All day it was snowing, but we have no choice. About 170 people are now in the assault camp. We need to leave early to avoid stuck in traffic jams on the Second step. And tomorrow, according to the forecast, the weather will deteriorate in the middle of the day.  Forecasters promised an almost windless night with a weak clouds. So that the exit is scheduled at 7 p.m. local time (in Tibet - 8 p.m.). All 19 people are preparing for a summit push.

Today, in a day, Tibetan climbers have completed the preparation of route, now the rope fixed up along the whole route to the summit. The way is open. Weather still gives hope for a successful ascent. Wind is within allowable in power. On the scheduled day, it should not worsen. The whole team (8 members, 8 Sherpas and 3 guides) are now in a camp at an altitude of 7800 meters. On May 20, in the morning, they will go to the assault camp at 8,300 m. And the same evening, that is, tomorrow, the whole team should go into the assault of Everest. All are doing well. A. Abramov.

Anna Gatta reports: I just got a phone call from Philippe at camp 4, 7700m. Philippe Gatta, Ludovic Chaleat, Cédric Haelen and 3 Sherpas successfully made a camp 4-summit-camp 4 round trip this night/morning in 11 hours (timing to be confirmed, line was bad). Kangchenjunga, 8586m, is bagged!

Alexia and Ben turned around at 8200m and is now walking down towards camp 3 or even camp 2. The are both fine but I think they felt too tired to go on. Gorgan didn’t feel good enough to start the summit push and went down and might even be in base camp already. Conclusion – everyone are ok, that is what counts.

Christian Stangl and a Russian guy also made the summit.

Philippe will stay in camp 4 today to recover from the tough night and tomorrow everyone will be back in base camp.

 All 19 climbers of the 7 Summits Club expedition on Everest are climbing from the North Col (7000 m) to a camp at an altitude of 7500 meters. Summit bid is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May for whole group. At this time, due to weather conditions, most expeditions have shifted final attemts, both in North and South. However, on the north side, the route to the summit has not yet climbed and fixed with ropes. This is alarming. Tibetan climbers from the local mountaineering association should have been updated all ropes along the route.

Expedition leader Alexander Abramov has sent information from the camp ABC. A summit bid for the expedition 7 Summits Club is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May. The Chinese have promised to finalize the route and fix ropes up to the summit on May 20. Tomorrow, May 18, the entire group of 19 people pulled out of ABC to the North Col camp (7000 meters). May, 19 – to the camp at 7500 meters. May, 20 – to the assault camp at altitude of 8300 meters. May, 21 - an attempt to climb the summit. Now all members of the expedition is preparing for exit

Specifically, members:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrey Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

guides of the expedition:

Sergey Larin (51) Tver

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

and 9 Sherpas ....

Alexander Abramov, plans to stay the climb from camp ABC.

The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition continues to wait for completing preparation of route. Under contracts, it had to be done by Tibetans, employees of the local Association of mountaineering. However, their forces are not enough, a lot of snow, wind ... It must be other solutions, they need help by expeditions. However, a potential for this is not so big, every expedition leader takes care of his Sherpas to work with clients. But there is no other exit, you need to sacrifice something for the common cause.

Last week, in two days more than 40 climbers reached the summit of Everest from the south. Including a large number of commercial members. And one of the guides of Alpine Ascent Michael Horst made a significant achievement - he climbed the summits both Everest and Lhotse in a day.

Our other expeditions. Israfil Ashurly in the team of Alexey Bolotov attempted to climb Kanchenjunga. However, our climbers were stopped by strong wind and now they are preparing for the second attempt. Also, the wind did not allowed to climb Shisha Pangma for Donetsk team of climbers led by Sergei Kovalev. They will also prepare for a new assault.

May 15th, 2011 by fishtailair. On the 14th and 15th May, we had done aerial search on Thulagi Peak 7057 m (which is also called Mansiri Himal). The mountain had been scouted in the entire altitude, from the top till the bottom in all the faces. No life could be seen and today 15th we saw a tent at around 6300 m. It was dark green in color, and it was located on the south face. We landed and one of our rescuers jumped out from the helicopter and went inside the tent. There were sleeping bags and some equipment but no human sign. Few pieces of equipment have been taken as a proof of our research to be recognized by the family. When we took off from that place (6300 m) and we found some footprints above the tent, ending in a sharp ridge. We searched a lot below that ridge and above. We also went to other directions starting from other potential climbing routes but nothing could be found. From my climbing experience I’m quite sure that they fell in a crevasse or from that ridge because that place was really dangerous.

May, 11 the expedition of 7 Summits Club went out from the base camp for climbing to the summit of Everest. All members and guides of the team underwent acclimatization, during which climbed to the top Changtse (North Peak of Everest) or to a height of 7500 meters on the classic route. We plan to climb by two groups. The first group is scheduled to leave for summit bid on May 16, the second - on May 17.

Expedition:

The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloyvan (44) Moscow

Roman Grezky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Creenagh Popescu (16) Romania – cancelled due to illness

Group with special permits (without climbing Everest) - their mission is completed:

Valery Rozov (46) Moscow

Denis dips (42) Moscow

Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow

Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangel

Guides of the expedition:

Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow – leader of the expedition

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

Sergey Larin (51) Tver

Nicolay Cherny (72) Moscow

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland