All news: 2016

The Everest Team of the 7 Summits Club is in the ABC camp at an altitude of 6400 meters. All expedition members are healthy and ready for the ascent. As long as we have to wait. There is nothing strange happens - it happens every year. Chinese (Tibetan) climbers are going to go to complete the processing of the route, the expedition is expected in full combat readiness

Listen to audio message:

Julia and Olga were in the mountains of the High Atlas from 10 to 13 May and met the birthday of Olga Zaichenko on top of Mount Toubkal. Congratulations to Olga a happy birthday and a successful ascent! They did it so even though it was not easy!

May 15^th on the first group going up:

- Women's Russian team (Irena Kharazova,  Liana Chabdarova and Lyudmila Korobeshko);

- Vlad Moroz;

- Oleg Pimenov;

- Roman Reutov;

- Vladimir Kotlyar;

- Alexander Abramov.

For  the summit bid in a window on May 20-21

May 16^th  the second group starts:

- Noel Hanna;

- Hannah Lynn;

- Janusz Kochanski;

- Tatiana Yalovchak;

- Igor Demyanenko;

- Sergej Larin;

- Denis Provalov.

For the summit bid in a window on May 21-22

With the second  group, but only to the North Col:

- Jamila Murtazina;

- Maxim Shakirov;

- Przemysław Simeon (Noel Group videooperator)

- Zbignew Wolny  (Noel Group videooperator)

- Alexander Kubasov (RD studio videooperator).

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Lying in the Base Camp in a sleeping bag  it is easier to think than at 7000.

What's happening? Yes, as usual, the Chinese pulled with a fixed ropes. The Weather is snowing. The route has more than 1 m of snow. Wind is weak. It does not blow away the snow.

We rest in the lower camps. Yesterday there was a concert of guitar music and singing. Moveв for cinema. They took as participants go to bed. What else to move?

At the Base Camp and other camps in the abstract there are several Ukrainian girls, each of whom wants to climb Mount Everest. But they have feeble chance. And girls are slender,  gaunt already by waiting. Our Tanya is full of strength and desire!

In general, all are alive and healthy. And ready to storm.

It is kaif - in the morning to lie in a tent and philosophize. ))

A group of 5 people for holidays in May (1-7 May 2016), climbed to the top, and then they decided together to go on a safari.

Participants: Maxim Novikov, Andrei Zakharov, Bondar Denis, Kuznetsov Denis, Balakin Alex.

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our impulse to move sharply upward was stopped by snow and the lack of a fixed ropes. But this, in some sense, the audit showed the willingness of absolutely all the participants for the assault at any moment.

We now have probably the most difficult period of the expedition.  First of all psychologically – it is waiting with so many ever-changing introductory. The weather forecast  changes daily (or more accurately, no end of snowfall). Normal and good window is not visible.

 Information from the Chinese changed about when they will finish fixing ropes to the summit. So there are many reasons  to be fidgety. We are encouraged by the fact that no one in our team use it. Everyone understands that patience– it is a  part of successful expedition.

Almost all participants had been ill, stopped to wash (to not get sick again;), everything getting thinner and tanned, we got used to each other.

Today we go to the Middle Camp to 5800. While as on the trip, but we'll see ...

 Yesterday, almost all members of the team went to the Old Monastery Rongbuk ...

Olga Rumyantseva: Our team climbed Mera peak. Weather we did not indulge. We had to wait and use all reserve days. And after that, we were able to come up only at the second attempt. All participants, except Christina, climbed to the top. Christina decided to wait for us in the assault camp. Now all people, fun and health, go down to Lukla ...

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9^th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Mountain school program "Climbing in Arkhyz" (Northern Caucasus)  successfully completed. We had a rocky and snow training, committed  training climbings. There was also celebrated birth day of Natalja Tschjonowa. Gourmets tasted and compared hychins of  local chefs. And at the end of the holiday, there were a snowy morning and rainy day. Mountains are sad that we are leaving them again!

 The  Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came  down to rest in the base camp. Members  who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their  altitude records!

 Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb  to an altitude  of  about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down  in  the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Hello! It is  Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club. Yesterday we had a day of summit bid. But the weather, unfortunately, had not given the possibility to carry out our plans. We got a lot of fun, new experiences in the mountains. But without the summit. Hello!

We have just received a message from Tanzania that today our group (five people) was  at the highest peak in Africa - Kilimanjaro! Our congratulations ! We hope that in everything will be fine at a descent.

Hello! It is Andrey Berezin from Terskol. Today is the day was rich in emotions, experiences and adventures. Today we had everything: new cracks on the glacier, stones whistling from the eastern peak of the head. And the snow in faces, and the clouds that were under feet. The team fought to the end and the guys have reached the maximum height to which they sought today. Maximum we had - 5300 meters, the height of the Saddle of Elbrus. Now, all alive and well, and most importantly - happy, are sitting in the hotel "Povorot". They share experiences with each other. We also note the solemn presentation of certificates. Thanks to all! Andrey Berezin

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.

 The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.

 Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.

 After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.

In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.

Today we have a day of complete rest,  we went down  1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and  dance on the ruins of castles ...

Lyudmila Korobeshko:  the Puja ceremony  was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb  in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC

Not so long ago Vasily Shakhnovsky with Alexander Abramov  visited  the South Pole. And now he and his family  were already at the North Pole - in the group of Olga Rumyantseva as a guide ... Congratulations! And thanks for providing photos for publication ...

Within three days the Mountain  School  of  the 7 Summits Club worked in the Crimea. According to the program, participants were first  at training sessions on the rocks. Then they made two multipich climbing route, and on the last day they visited a cave called Stavri-kaya. The organizers, they also guides the 7 Summits Club Alexander Malinkevich and Natalia Kartashova, as well as  members of the group  were very pleased with the work done. Guests of the Crimea are already dreaming to come back to this wonderful land,  in the beautiful mountains, to the marvelous Black Sea.

April 24^th.   Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in  the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.

 The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.

 Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.

 In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.

Today, April 24, we have rest day, as well as bath day.

Tomorrow, April 25th we plan for the 4 days  go up: Night at 5800 and two nights in 6400 on the ABC camp.

Together with the participants of the first Russian women's expedition to Everest, we (the team of autoexpedition Toyota - Eveerst) reached the base camp! Here we spend the day, and then start of climbing program. I'll go to the North Col of Everest (7020 meters), three members - to the top.

 Before the base camp we stayed at the Rongbuk Monastery, which is located at an altitude of 4980 meters. It is the highest mountain monastery in the world and an important place of pilgrimage for the Sherpas.

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.