All news: 2016 - Page 4

Svetlana Nuzhum, 7 Summits Club guide, program track to the base camp of Mount Everest:

Namaste! We have come to Tengboche (3870 m). Yesterday, as planned, we went to the "Everest View" hotel and Khumjung. The weather is wonderful, cloudless sky. We enjoy views of Everest and  it lures. The team feels great. Tomorrow we go to Pheriche…

The desire to climb Everest could be understand for almost everybody, that is,  for all normal people. There are a proven way to prepare: to ask the advice of the most important experts. And the best is not just to ask for advice, but go together in the mountains, to gain experience and learn from an experienced comrade necessary knowledge. Next summer we invite you to take part in a unique event - an expedition to Lenin Peak led by the most experienced climber on Everest in Russia, head of the 13 expeditions to the highest peak of the world,  master of sports Alexander Abramov.

The 7 Summits Club president seven times was up at the highest point of Mount Everest. Expedition to Lenin Peak under his guidance specifically planned as a stage of preparation for the ascent to Everest. Do not miss this rare opportunity!

Lenin Peak (Avicenna) - majestic mountain and valuable in itself. It cannot be underestimated, which, however, applies to any mountain. So prepare seriously: Train your body and mind, pick equipment, read literature etc…

Expedition to Lenin Peak under the leadership of Alexander Abramov

PROGRAM (in Russian)

We will also continue the implementation of our standard of climbing to Lenin Peak program under the guidance of our friends, the best guides of the Central Asian republics

PROGRAM (in Russian)

Hello! There is Alexander Abramov, the Pyramid of Carstensz. Yesterday we finally went into these terrible, wet jungle and moved in it until evening in the pouring rain. Torrential rain it is a rain that just breaks through not only jackets or coats, but also tents, where we spend the night. Dirt, of course, to the knee. The guys really did not expect this. And their surprise has no limit. All the time asking how long it will last? Yes, this dirt will continue to the base camp Carstensz Pyramid. Today we could not get the camp 2 and stopped in the intermediate camp.

 In the morning we started with the desire to reach the camp 2, but within an hour we came to a place where they were to pass the bridge.  The bridge appeared crushed, destroyed. And so for about two hours our Papuans made for us a new bridge. They cut down a tree, threw it into the water, pulled the rope. And we walked along the tree through which poured rage whitewater, belayed by  a rope...

Later in the jungle, we just started to climb on tree roots. You walk through the jungle ... in the air, at the height of half a meter. This endless climbing, endless mud, and we were not able to reach the camp 2 ...

 However, the team does not lose good spirits. Everybody is happy.

There are people who like the comfort of their living room – and then there are people who just can't help but break world records, over and over again. Skydiving and BASE-jump legend Valery Rozov definitely falls into the second category.

A new world record for the Russian legend

On October 5, 2016, after a 21-day expedition on the sixth-highest peak in the world – Mount Cho Oyu on the Chinese/Nepalese border – Rozov stood on the edge of his chosen exit spot at 7,700m and leapt into thin air, breaking his own record from 2013 by 500m.

It was my dream and my goal for the last three years.

Valery Rozov

Climbing Cho Oyu is no small accomplishment on its own, let alone BASE jumping from the top of the south-west wall. The expedition itself wasn’t so easy for the group of climbers.

A recent dump of fresh snow and a few days of very bad weather meant the group were unable to reach the exit spot at the first attempt. They had to wait a full week before being able to make another attempt. But once they saw the weather clearing up and allowe a little time for the snow to melt a bit at the exit spot, it was go time.

 Valery Rozov climbing his way up Mount Cho Oyu in the Himalayas

After 90 seconds of pure freefall, Rozov opened his parachute and kept flying for another two minutes before landing safely on the glacier below, at 6,000 meters above sea level.

For the Russian legend, boundaries are made to be pushed and limits are made to be exceeded: nothing seems to be too much of a challenge for him.

The 51-year-old athlete is no stranger to breaking record with a combination of mountaineering and BASE-jumping. In early May of 2013, he set the previous world record for the highest BASE jump by leaping from an altitude of 7,220m from Changtse in the Everest Massif.

http://www.redbull.com/en/adventure/stories/1331825478086/new-record-highest-base-jump-rozov

Alexander Tishkov, guide of 7 summits Club:

Today we climb up to mount Toubkal. Weather from the start was not on our side. Strong gusts of wind and overcast. But when we got to the top, suddenly everything opened up and we were able to fully enjoy the panoramic views.

Svetlana Nuzhum, a guide of 7 summits Club: Hurray, we in Phading! After a long wait at the airport, in connection with the jam in the airspace Kathmandu, we finally got to Lukla. Despite the delay, we went further in a good mood and pace, and after 3 hours was Phakding. We even went down to the river Dudh-Kosi and some even put legs in the water. Now go to dinner and go to bed – it’s been a long day!

Alex Abramov:

Group took off from Timaka in Sugapa with a delay of 4 hours. In Sugapa we were waited for the crowd of Papuans with spears and bows. However, they met another plane, but we were impressed.

35 motoriders took us and our cargo and took up on a very bad road. Papuans three times stopped us and demanded money. But the policeman who was with us, decided this issue.

We finally got to Suanggama (2000 m), a village consisting of 5 houses. Three of them belong to the headman  and he posted three of his family. And two plank house built by the guides for the reception of expeditions to Carstensz. The houses of the headman  is a round hut with a grass roof. And dirt floors, as at Masai people in Africa. Our two cottages are two barn of rough-hewn boards.

We sleep on the floor and eat under a canopy of grass overlooking the whole village.

At the end of the day we witnessed an ugly scene. Men beat  one of wives of the headman  (third and youngest), she allegedly cheated on him with a white tourist. I think they even wanted to kill her. The Papuans are clearly threatened to our group. Anxious.

Catherine made a successful ascent on Orizaba together with our guide Israel:

 The summery – the climb up for 8.5 hours!!!! The descent is 3.5.

Almost no other climbers here, that is  plus, of course, incredible. I'm on the glacier already looked at this beauty and I thought – well, where it is? Where is my snowboard?? The snow quality was perfect! I wish snowbording from the top!

 But overall, a great mountain! Beautiful. We really were lucky with the weather. On Friday there was just a hell here...

 It's definitely harder then Kili and Elbrus...

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 summits Club, a guide of the expedition: the 21st October, our team gradually gathered in a heavenly corner of the planet, which is called the island of Bali. This is probably one of the best places on Earth. Before hard work it is always required to relax. Here we rested from the hustle and bustle of Moscow, and before the rainy, ruthless Irian Jaya.

 It is difficult to estimate how many lobsters were killed in the bellies of our climbers. The evening of 22th October was illuminated by our noisy departure to the country of Papuans. Everything was checked, loaded and the plane dragged us to the glorious town of Timika in the South of the island of New Guinea...

On 20^th  October at the climbing gym Skala (Rock) city for the first time there was training session of the Mountain school of the 7 Summits Club. Classes were held under the guidance of coach-instructor Egor Dulnev.

Many thanks for the photos to  Roman Reutov, Everest summiter and professional photographer!

Today, Alexander Abramov went to the Papuans. He is the guide of an expedition to the Pyramid Carstensz and President of the 7 Summits Club.

 Alex started a few days earlier the entire group to thoroughly prepare for this difficult expedition.

And the rest of the participants will arrive at the point of collection - Bali - 21 October. And eating seafood and having been filled with the sun, they will go deep into the island of Papua New Guinea adventures. The team gathered this times numerous - 10 PAX.

Yesterday a group of the 7 Summits Club under the guidance of Alexander Tishkov began the journey through Morocco. First, they go to the Sahara desert. The first day, our visitors were acquainted with the traditional culture of the Moroccans.

 On 13 October there was the traditional evening dedicated to the birthday of the company 7 Summits Club. We are very pleased that every year more and more people come to congratulate us, welcome us and each other, coming to see old friends, learn new, learn, eat, drink, rest after work and so on... We think that the vast majority were satisfied and they reluctantly leave the room. However, the room is small, it is what it is. What to do? Don't know yet.

Lyudmila Korobeshko opened the evening, on the rights of the Queen

Alexander Abramov (the King) gave the floor to Sergei Larin, who told how the expedition under his leadership ahead of time rose to the top of Cho Oyu.

Igor and Natalia Smirnova, as members of the expedition, added to the report  emotions and own photos...

The most great time were given to Oscar Konyukhov. The Audience listened to his story with open mouths, and after the guests filled up the lecturer with questions. Buying information on a record flight around the world in a balloon, carried out by Fedor Konyukhov paint, all new bright colors.

Leader and trainer of the program "Altitude" Alexander Yakovenko reported about the great success of this project (five peaks per season).

Vladimir N. Shataev presented a certificate "Snow leopard" another hero of our time - Dmitry Moskalev.

 Artem Rostovtsev spoke briefly about the competition on trailrunning in the Crimea. We are very grateful to him for introducing us to running sports activities:

Well, to the delight of many fans and lovers of the Crimea, we saw the first public performance of our Crimean teachers rock climbing Natalia Kartashova. She, of course, was worried. But performed brilliantly. Many, I am sure, listening to her story on the background of the Crimean types on the screen began to change their plans and to embed them in another visit to the Crimea.

The second speech, Oscar Konyukhov was shorter, but no less interest. This time it was about two new projects of his Father Fyodor. As usual, it should be supercandy: rise above all in a hot air balloon (in the stratosphere) and down below all in the Marianas trench.

As usual after a fun lottery where lucky to even those who've never had much luck, alas the time has come to part...

Until next time, friends !

This training session was not conducted in our common place (DDS) and climbing center the Big Wall. It's like to visit different mountains...  the reason for the unscheduled exercise was the visit to Moscow  our wonderful Crimean guide Natasha Kartashova. A great climber, she in a short time the co-working with the 7 Summits Club learned new pedagogical approaches to learning skills on the rocky terrain of people specializing in commercial mountaineering... Thanks, in particular, the presence of two Alexandrs, our President (Abramov) and our Coach (Lastochkin), training became fun and informative.

 So - welcome to the Crimean rocks to the Crimean sea, Crimean nature and Crimean wine!

On October 10^th  there was  the first training session of new season with coach Alexander Lastochkin. Now the trainings will take place every Monday. And every workout will bring something new. For students of the Mountain school every Monday becomes a special day . And this is due to the fact that our coach, two-time champion of Russia on mountaineering, gives very interesting assignments for practicing techniques of climbing. In parallel, he talks about the most exciting and legendary expeditions, in which participated about different cases that occurred in the mountains around the world.

 Alexander is a terrific climber, and his expertise is fascinating. And we provide you with a unique opportunity to communicate with such man.

The event will be held on October 13^th  on Thursday, beginning at 20:00. The 7 Summits Club celebrates its birthday and invites you to share the feast of all his friends and those who would like to become a friend. We invite you to our office ul. Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya, 7. Metro Prospekt Mira.

In the evening we will tell about our key expeditions of 2016, we summarize the results of several months of travel and climbing programs. You will find a meal and attention from the owners.

We present  main guests of the evening:

Oscar Konyukhov, the son and Manager of the greatest Russian traveler, tells about the organization of the expedition Fyodor Konyukhov  "balloon Flight around the world."

The participant of expeditions 7 summits Club, master of sports Alexander Yakovenko will speak about the project team's Vysota. Russian national team on high-altitude mountaineering, which this year closed the project "Snow leopard" five peaks in one summer.

We will also welcome the members of our expedition on Cho-Oyu this year, leader Sergei Larin. They had just come back from the Himalayas and will tell, how was the ascent.

We invited Natalia Kartashov our wonderful guide and instructor on the Crimean rocks. She's in the capital of many friends and we hope that they will not miss the opportunity to see her...

Natasha will tell us about the adventures of a team of 7 summits during the Big autumntrip to the Crimea. In particular, we share the impressions about participation in a unique race Crimea X Run - hard tests, an unforgettable experience!

Come, really looking forward to meeting You!

On the final day the Crimea graced us with sunny weather. We went to the Squirrel rocks. It turned out that it is very close to the main highway. With the help of our magnificent Crimean guides we received the necessary emotions and specific physical activity, typical for rock climbing. Thank you to everyone who helped us to realize the perfect trip, completed our summer!

Natalia Kartashova, guide of the 7 Summits Club: greetings from the Mountain school of the Crimea! Today we have had a very extreme day. We are all big, cool gang cope with a terrible storm and the rain. We got through it and now safely descend on ropes through Miskhorsky caves. These are great, high sections of 50, 80 meters. Now the guys in a stupor going down in turn: Vadim, Vasya ...  Sasha Abramov heroically takes all. Oksana in here, too, with staring eyes. Now we dive into a scary narrow cave and we will have lunch. So the day was a success... good luck! Bye!

In 2006 Northern Irish adventurer Noel Hanna summited Everest for the first time in his life, one year after suffering retinal haemorrhaging on his first attempt.

Not content with climbing the world’s tallest mountain, after his descent Hanna then cycled down to sea level.

 In the following year the adventurer would complete the same feat on six different peaks; Mt. Vinson, Cartensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, each the tallest mountains on their respective continents.

 Hanna is the first and so far only person to complete this astounding challenge.

 “It was a good challenge so it was,” he chuckles, reflecting on the superhuman effort.

 Ten years after his first successful Everest attempt, the Dromara-based climber has returned to conquer the mountain a further seven times – twice with his wife.

Hanna’s Everest pet-hate is poorly prepared climbers not respecting the mountain.

He wants to share his wisdom for those looking to take on the unforgiving mountain – less the mountain disrespects them back.

 Training on the hills – then climbing another mountain Hanna’s background in running ultra-marathons meant that he was well prepared for taking on Everest. However, he suggests that we don’t all need to be at that fitness level.

“If you’re a person of regular fitness, running 10ks or half marathons and going to the gym two to three times a week, that’s the base and then it’s just about getting out to the hills and walking with a big rucksack.

“Walking at weekends, maybe a four hour-walk or a five-hour walk in the hills with a backpack on.

“It’s very beneficial if you go to a high mountain before you go to Everest. Somewhere like Aconcagua in South America.”

Noel Hanna and his wife Lynne at the top of Everest (Photo: noelhanna.com)

Training the mind

Hanna suggests that the fitter you are, the more confident you’re going to feel on the mountain.

 “If you’re the weakest on a team, mentally that’s going to bring you down; if you’re one of the fittest on the team, mentally that’s keeping you strong.

“Go at your pace, don’t try and keep up with someone else just because they’re on your team, you have to go at your own body’s pace.”

Hanna’s kit list for Everest expeditions

Equipment for Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp: Duffle bag, sleeping bag, foam pad, gas lamp, gas stove, gas cylinders, personal items for washing, your favourite games, notebook

Technical equipment for ascent: Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12), rucksack 70-80 litres, rucksack 35-40 litres, harness, prussiks, karabiners with screwgate lockers – 3 items, jumar (ascender), telescope ski poles, thermos, rappel device, ice axe, head lamp, photo camera, video camera and assessors, accumulators, personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet: Trekking shoes, boots of “Everest” Millet type, down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls), Gore-tex jacket with wide hood, Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls), windblock jacket, windblock trousers, jacket “Polartec – 100”, warm underwear, personal underwear, Polartec gloves, Thinsulate gloves, Thinsulate mittens, warm woolen socks, balaclava, warm hat, windblock face mask, UV glasses, ski goggles (preferably), gaiters

Hone your ropework in the

Highlands Any technicals skills required to take on Everest can be perfected in the Scottish Highlands, or the Alps, according to Hanna.

“With Everest, there’s a technical side to it, but you don’t need to be super skilled on ropework for Everest.”

 Hanna says it is essential to religiously work on your ropework, be confident in rapelling (abseiling) and jumarring (climbing up a rope).

 Additionally, would-be Everest climbers need to be competent in clipping in and out of ropes, as well as passing anchors.

 “All of that could be done in the Highlands of Scotland or even in a climbing gym, but obviously it’s more beneficial to get in the snow with your crampons on and doing the training that way, or going to the Alps and doing Mont Blanc.”

Don’t rely on the sherpa

All climbers must be capable of doing the climb by themselves and there can be no over-reliance on sherpas.

 “A lot of people will think ‘Oh I’ve got a sherpa, if something happens to me he’s carrying me down’, but if the sherpa feels that his life is at risk he’s going to leave you.”

Tortellini and Coca-Cola

Hanna suggests that a drastic change in diet isn’t necessary for taking on the mountain.

“Some people take protein powders, but I don’t. I just eat normally, I don’t change my diet from home when I’m on the mountain because most good expeditions on the mountain, especially in the North side, get fresh stuff in all the way to base camp.

“We cook food all the way up to 7,000 metres and it’s really only on summit push at 7,700 and 8,300 that you use boil in the bag food, but normally we would have tins of tuna and foil packs of tuna.

“Ideally I like to put on maybe two or three pounds before I go to the mountain.

” Keeping yourself well fed even when your appetite fades is essential, says Hanna.

“A lot of people over 6 -7,000 metres lose their appetite. You need to force yourself to eat. It’s like a car if you don’t put petrol in it, it’s not going to go.”

 The Northern Irishman’s unconventional eating and drinking habits suggests there is room for a few home comforts when tackling the fearsome summit.

“The first year I was climbing there with a good friend of mine from Italy and he had taken tortellini pasta up with us and I had packets of tuna and we just made a lovely meal before we went to summit.

“I’ve always taken a bottle of Coke with me and I remember three years ago going for the summit – I had a small bottle of Coke – stopping to take a drink of it and as soon as I opened the lid it just exploded and 90% of the liquid inside just flew out of it with the pressure.

“I was devastated.” Noel Hanna (Photo: noelhanna.com)

 ‘There is no wall’

Hanna recommends running your own race and ignoring mountain literature that tells you exactly where you will struggle. Undoubtedly having strong mental fortitude is crucial to a successful ascent.

 “I went into climbing from endurance sports, like 100 mile runs. Somebody who has never done a marathon before, the first thing they will say to you is ‘when will I hit the wall?’ It’s a myth, it’s somebody else’s wall.

“If you’ve read a book that says you’re not meant to struggle till 7,000 metres and you’re struggling at 6,000 metres, mentally that’s going to affect you.

“I’ve seen people who struggle on their first acclimatization rotation, but once they get that sorted they’re the strongest on summit push. “I always said that 70% of it is in the head.”

 Bring a lucky charm

Making  physical, technical and mental preparations is empirical, but having a lucky charm is also of importance, says Hanna.

“My wife gave me a lucky black cat on a keyring and it’s gone to every mountain with me since 2004.

“I’m not superstitious or anything, but every single mountain that I go on, it’s attached on my rucksack.

“When I’m leaving on an expedition I need to make sure that cat’s with me.”

What does Everest mean to Hanna?

For most who complete the summit, Everest will hold a special place in their heart. For Hanna it was just another mountain – until his German Shepherd Babu passed away last year.

 “Me and my wife have a German Shepherd pup who was ten and a half years old, he passed away 10 months ago. We said if anything ever happened to him we’d take his ashes to the summit of Everest.

“That’s what me and my wife did this year, we took his ashes with us and we sprinkled them a couple metres from the summit and had a wee tearful moment for him.

“When I think of Everest now, I think of my dog’s ashes. Everest is the most thoughtful mountain for me. We don’t have any children so he was the closest thing we had.”

Read more at: https://inews.co.uk/essentials/news/uk/girls-body-image-one-three-believe-not-pretty-enough/

Today is the anniversary of the Vasily Kernicky, Muscovite, climbers on Everest, Cho-Oyu, our 7thousanders peaks. The 7 Summits Club congratulates him with a birthday and wishes strong health, happiness, luck and new achievements! We hope to meet the 13th October at a gala evening in our office! Vasily is now returning with friends from the expedition to the sixth highest peak in the world Cho Oyu. This beautiful mountain is a great gift for the celebrant!