All news: 2019

 The first public performance of the Nepalese climber Nirmal Purji (easier, Nims) after the completion of his epic project Project Possible (14 eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days) took place in Moscow. The hero of this season came to Russia at the invitation of the 7 Summits Club. About 250 people came to listen to Nims's performance in the lecture hall of the Sport Marathon Travelers Club. The performance of the Nepalese was not long and detailed, he has no right to show part of his materials, because of obligations to sponsors. However, our audience remained completely satisfied. In particular, the fact that Nims devoted a lot of time to joint photographs and signing autographs. He withstood the whole rather big queue and this procedure took about an hour.

   The 7 Summits Club in the person of its President Alexander Abramov handed Nims "Golden Ice ax", so we evaluate his achievement ...

What was Nims talking about?

Nothing is impossible! The main thing in the project was precisely this idea! Show that it is possible. Nims sacrificed his pension,  laid his own house. And normal sponsorship appeared only after the completion of the first, most difficult part of the project.

 But at the same time, he wanted to show that Nepalese can be considered  as leaders in high altitude mountaineering. They consider themselves underrated.

Nims paid special attention to the fact that during the project, his team held four rescue actions. Critically, this could affect success. Especially at the very beginning, when the schedule was broken due to the rescue action at Annapurna.

The most difficult was, of course, Kanchenjunga. It was only the fourth day after the descent from Dhaulagiri. Fatigue was incredible. However, when on the descent, Nims's group found three climbers who were unable to move independently, they were assisted. And of the 40 climbers who were in the nearest camp, no one took part in the action.

Nims also climbed with  supplemental oxygen because there can be different situations on the ascent and often other climbers have to be helped. What would be impossible without additional oxygen.

Before K2 he was worried more than usual. After all, no one was able to get to the top before them. Even very strong teams. Under the mountain there were about a hundred climbers. When they arrived at the base camp, everyone turned to Nims with a question about their plans. He answered - today we drink (alcohol) and no plans. And in the morning his team took the storm of the most formidable mountain.

By the way, during the 16-year service in the elite unit of the English army (the Gurkhas are considered by many to be “the best warriors in the world”) Nims did not drink alcohol at all. But now he believes that it can even be useful in the mountains.

On Pakistan's eight-thousanders, the Nims team had difficulties associated with the work of local porters. Nepalis simply did not like the pace of their movement. Therefore, they carried goods under Broad Peak and Gasherbrum independently.

Nims plans to issue book,  ti finish a film, work in his company Elite Himalayan Adventures, make a new route to Cho Oyu, perhaps for new records ...

And! Collaborate with  the 7 Summits Club and work with our groups. And not only in Nepal!

From an interview with Forbes magazine:

I am not really afraid of anything. But there is an old saying: If someone says, “I’m not afraid of dying,” they must either be a Ghurka or they must be lying. I am a Ghurka (laughs)!

Reinhold Messner, the man of the era who first climbed the eight-thousanders: “Nims, I can see in your eyes - it comes from your soul, from your heart - I think you can do this project.”

 Now we made sure that Messner was right. Nims is a very honest, decent, pure in his goals, strong person in every way, and at the same time he is adequately thinking. We are friends now!

The hero of the year Nirmal Purja (Nims) is coming to Russia! On December 7, he will perform in front of audience of the 7 Summit Club at 15:00. And then later (from 19:00), he will visit the Annual solemn evening of the Russian Mountaineering Federation. On December 8, he is waited in St. Petersburg.

Evgeny Vdovin met the onset of the calendar winter on the rocks of Crimea. On Sunday, he completed the basic course of rock climbing in the Crimea! Together with the guides of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny climbed two long multi-pitches routes, received a lot of technical skills. And that’s in just three days!

Alexander Abramov is an extra-class climber who has been on the summit of Everest 10 times. Perhaps he is the main in Russia and one of the world's leading experts on high-altitude mountain expeditions. Alex told why people go to the mountains and why they die there. And also, how much does it cost to climb to the highest peak of the planet, and at what height the line between a man and a woman is blurred.

Fully - in Russian

For six months in the office - how do you keep your form?

 My form is my work tool. Any guide should be a priori stronger than any of his clients, only in this case it makes sense to pay him. Stronger both theoretically - to know more about the mountains, to have more experience, both morally and physically.

 Therefore, I do everything for my work. So, today I came to the office only at 13:30 - in the morning I ran, did exercises. I believe that every person is obliged to devote at least an hour, and this is 4% of the day, to physical training outdoor.

 Now I am 56, many have surrendered by this age, are hunched over. And I’ve been climbing for 38 years and don’t drink any pills.

Has your occupation made you rich? Do you have half a million rubles a month on your personal account?

I don’t know how much I earn per month, but this amount, the price of a used car, doesn’t scare me. I know that Gazprom top managers also have 3 million a month, but how happy are they at their offices at the meetings?

Whether I became rich or not is a difficult question, but the fact that I have a very interesting life is for sure. For me, every trip to the mountains is a bright spot burned in the brain with a laser. And sitting in the city is such a gray strip. I will never remember what I did on Friday of such and such a date, such and such a year. But if you ask me, remember, in the year 2012 you were on Everest? Remember, on May 3 we were there with the same person? I can recover all day in my head and tell you.

But the rest ... Yes, in order to live, you need to earn some chips, this is 100%, but this is just not so interesting.

Friends and fans of the 7 Summits Club! Alex+Lucy project is completed! These are two beautiful routes that lead along the Western and Eastern ridges of the South Face to the summit of Shaan-Kaya! We invite Alex, Lucy and all-all-all to climb it! Crimean guides of the 7 Summits Club.

Ludmila Korobeshko, Director of 7 Peaks Club and group guide:

Hello from Papua! Perhaps this is the last one. Tomorrow we're flying home, and today we were having a blast in Papua. We visited mudmen, hulimen, skeletonmen. With each of these tribes we sang and danced. Then we participated in the preparation of a special dish "Mumu" - thus, we were given a great honor.

 We also shot with bows and spears, visited the mausoleum with skulls, and met the family of the chief of the village of Paya, whose members appeared to us in a very naked form. Probably, it is also a sign of great respect for us...

 In General, we leave this hospitable country with a lot of pleasant impressions and photos. We promised local to return on their festivals. They invited us very much.

The mudmen

Have hulimen (or wigmen - that is, people in wigs)

At skeletonmen

In the village of Paya

Introduction to the family of the chief of the village of Paya

Ludmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide:

Greetings from Papua from a group called “Mudman on Giluwe-2”! 

Today we climbed to the top of Mount Giluwe and immediately went down without spending the night in the camp.

It seems that Ivan Stepanov, 16 years old, became the youngest Russian on Giluwe.

Ludmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide:

Greetings from Papua from a group called “Mudman on Giluwe-2”! We begin our ascent of Giluwe volcano. We want to make an express version, that is, to climb with only one overnight stop.

Ludmila Korobeshko, director of the 7 Summits Club, a group guide:

Hello from Papua New Guinea! Today is the final day of the program. In the morning we went to see the birds, which, alas, because of the rain did not want to show up. Then we walked through the forest with orchids. And then the Central event of the day happened – we visited the village of Paia. There we were given a solemn reception-baked pig, danced and sang.

All greetings from the group "Shaggy Yaks"!   Today we have completed trekking "Around Annapurna"! In the morning we walked around the local attractions  of Muktinath, a sacred place for three religions: Buddhism, Hinduism and Zoroastrianism. And then we moved to Jomson, for rest.  Everything is OK!

Guide Alexander Dorojukov.

Greetings from Papua New Guinea from “the intrepid conquerors” of Giluwe!  Today we had a cultural day. First we visited mudmen (clay people with pots on their heads). First they tried to intimidate us, then we did it of them. Then we danced in Panka Village with hoolimen. In the end we stopped at the local market, bought betel nuts and tried them. That was awesome! Still under the impression...

Nepalese climber, the new world record holder in the speed of ascents to all 14 eight-thousandths of the planet Nirmal Purja (Nims) accepted the invitation of the 7 Summits Club to come to Russia!

So - Miracles do come true!

 During the autumn expedition on Manaslu (8156m), the members of the 7 Summits Club group headed by Ludmila Korobeshko met Nims, who was completing his unique program of climbing the eight-thousandth peaks.   We have established good friendly relations and invited the Nepalese to visit Russia at the end of his program.  Soon climbing to the top of Shisha Pangma Nims issued a new phenomenal record, passing all 14 eight-thousandths less than 7 months.   Suffice it to say that the previous achievement he beat by more than seven years!  

And recently, on behalf of the 7 Summits Club, we sent him an official invitation to come to Russia.  Nims agreed, and with the support of the Russian Embassy in Nepal, he got a visa.

  December 7^th  the 7 Summits Club  participates in the organization in Moscow a gala evening of the Russian mountaineering Federation, dedicated to the summing up of the year.  During this event, the Golden ice Axe of Russia ceremony will be held – an award for the best mountaineering achievement of the year.  And there will also be a presentation of the "Everest Climber" honours to climbers who have reached the world's highest peak for the first time this year.

It is planned that Nims will speak to Russian climbers with a story about his unique record project and his future plans. The speech in Moscow will be his first public appearance outside Nepal!  Do not miss this historic event!

We will also organize two more performances of Nims at our friends:

 December 7^th in Moscow in the lecture Hall of the Club of Travelers of the Sport Marathon;

December 8^th in St. Petersburg in the RedFox trade center.

During our expedition to Papua several records were set:

1) The Firsts Estonians who have climbed Mount Giluwe - Vambola and Lisette Sipelgas (father and daughter).

2) First Crimean on Giluwe became great Igor Pokhvalin.

3) Ruslan Sadykov became the First from Bashkiria on Giluwe.

Hello from the group of Shaggy Yaks!  Trekking "Around Annapurna". Again we had an early start, thia time – for the highest pass on our route - Torong La( 5416 meters).  We were waiting by morning magical views, beauty as in a fairy tale, and, of course, a heavy long climb. At the pass we drank tea, admired the beauty and then there was the same long descent. We went down to the village of Mukhtinath. In General, this hardest day of the trek we went well.

Guide Alexander Dorojukov.

Ludmila Korobeshko: Yesterday morning, the 7 Summits Club team climbed to the top of Australia's and Oceania's highest volcano, Mount Giluwe.  The summit was made by all members of the expedition and a group of local Papuans.  They are kind and very nice people. And they are not cannibals. Papuans went with us to the top, sang songs by the fire, mixed mud – so, they had a great time in the campaign on Giluve!

Tomorrow our cultural program begins - a visit to the local tribes.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, group guide and Director of 7 Summits Club:

Hello from Papua! Our group is finally gathered together.  Ruslan, yet, remained without baggage, but we found for him lacking gear. And we already plan to start to the way to the bottom of Giluwe through the jungle and swamps!

Guide Alexander Dorojukov  from Nepal:

  All greetings from groups "Shaggy Yaks", going trekking "Around Annapurna"!  Today we visited the beautiful lake Tilicho. Early morning rise, a steep slope leading up to the lakeside. Beautiful mountain scenery. That to speak, please look photos! We go further…

Andrey Berezin, the group guide from Nepal:

Our Trekking to Mardi Himal base camp program is completed. Our colorful trek ran from subtropics to Alpine meadows. After that, we arrived in the beautiful resort town of Pokhara, where we waited for its indescribable atmosphere…

 Ludmila Korobeshko, a guide of the group:

All greetings from Papua New Guinea from Ludmila Korobeshko!  Our expedition to Mount Giluwe will officially begin tomorrow. Yesterday and today I with local men prepared everything for arrival of group - checked tents and sleeping bags, visited  shops. We even managed to buy a little bit of alcohol, which is practically banned in Papua. In ordinary shops it is not sold - only in special bins behind double lattices with guards.

Between Raphael and Morgan

Purchase of live meat

Trying to break into the Bank

All greetings from a group Shaggy Yaks, trekking " Around Annapurna”.  We moved to the village of Upper Manang. The weather smiles on us. Beautiful views opened on different sites:  Annapurna-2, Annapurna, Pisang, Manaslu and many others. Today we have a day of rest, we walked to the observation point, which offers beautiful views. The condition of the group is excellent. Hello everyone!

Guide Alexander Dorojukov.