Everest 2016

On Saturday, December 3  a solemn evening of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FMR) took place in the center of Moscow in the Telegraph hall. The action is devoted to summing up year and delivery of awards to the caused a stir athletes. The awarding the prize "Gold Ice Axe of Russia" for the best climb of year was the main event, of course. However evening began, and it was very pleasant, from a celebration of new summiters of Everest. Since 2012 FMR awards them with the special medal.

 The organizers caused on the stage of our heroes of Everest. Members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club: Vlad Moroz, Roman Reutov, Irena Harazova, Igor Demyanenko. And also Masha Gordon, who climed from the South and forgotten in 2012 (when awarded all, since 1982) Vyacheslav Skripko. A bit later the award found one more heroine – Tatyana Yalovchak from Ukraine. She just was late. Awards will also be transferred to two more participants of our expedition: Oleg Pimenov and Vladimir Kotlyar.

Dear Friends,

 It’s not a secret that this spring, we organized an expedition to mount Everest from the North side, in conjunction with «7 Summits Club», «RD Studio», «RedFox», «Yandex» and «Toyota». The expedition was stopped in half way, due to an earthquake magnitude of 8 – We were lucky that nobody from our Expedition was hurt. We were forced to evacuate.

Despite this fact, we managed to create a panoramic view of our 19km route, right from Base Camp (5100m) to Advanced Base Camp (6500m).

The Panoramas were published before the release of the film "Everest".

In the autumn of 2015, inspired by the many positive responses from your side, we decided to finish the job and began to organize an expedition in 2016.

May 20, 2016, we managed to reach the summit (8848м) and completed the full route whilst picturing everything in 3D panoramic views from base camp to the summit. May 22, 2016, we returned to base camp uninjured and safe.

Early June 2016 when we returned to Moscow, we started going through all the raw materials and then commenced our work to ensure it was of the highest standard. We created a special interactive page dedicated to the climb. Now, because of our project, everyone will be able to travel our full journey right from base camp (5100m) up until the summit of Everest (8848м). You will be able to pass this scenic mountainous route without exposing yourselves to any danger. 

We wanted to make such beauty more accessible and wanted to share with you this joy and positivity.

And yes – we were the first in the world to do a full 3D panoramic view of route to highest point in World – Everest Summit!

Thanks to all of those who participated in the project. We really appreciated your support. We appreciated your selfless dedication and inspiring enthusiasm.

Special thanks to:

- Anatoly Topol and Konstantin Lysenko from Yandex team – without your enthusiasm and faith, this project would not have taken place

- Olga Bolotova from the team Neq4 – as the most energetic team member of our project

- RD Studio team, and personally to Valdis Pelsh, Kristina Kozlova, Alexander Kubasov, Vladimir Kudinov – for your support in the mountains – with you there was never a boring moment

- expedition team and to Alexander Abramov – for the excellent organization of the expedition and the feeling of tranquility

- Vladimir Kotlyar and Vlad Moroz – for their selfless help during the expedition, faith and dedication

- Max Shakirov, project partner – because you were always never far behind

- colleagues, to team and to management – thank you very much for the opportunity you gave ma and fot believing in me

- parents, relatives and friends – for their support

- and, of course, to the Toyota team – for «Always a better way»

Together we make the world better – thank you.

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"I want to share with you the inspiring beauty of the world we live in."  Roman Reutov

In 2006 Northern Irish adventurer Noel Hanna summited Everest for the first time in his life, one year after suffering retinal haemorrhaging on his first attempt.

Not content with climbing the world’s tallest mountain, after his descent Hanna then cycled down to sea level.

 In the following year the adventurer would complete the same feat on six different peaks; Mt. Vinson, Cartensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, each the tallest mountains on their respective continents.

 Hanna is the first and so far only person to complete this astounding challenge.

 “It was a good challenge so it was,” he chuckles, reflecting on the superhuman effort.

 Ten years after his first successful Everest attempt, the Dromara-based climber has returned to conquer the mountain a further seven times – twice with his wife.

Hanna’s Everest pet-hate is poorly prepared climbers not respecting the mountain.

He wants to share his wisdom for those looking to take on the unforgiving mountain – less the mountain disrespects them back.

 Training on the hills – then climbing another mountain Hanna’s background in running ultra-marathons meant that he was well prepared for taking on Everest. However, he suggests that we don’t all need to be at that fitness level.

“If you’re a person of regular fitness, running 10ks or half marathons and going to the gym two to three times a week, that’s the base and then it’s just about getting out to the hills and walking with a big rucksack.

“Walking at weekends, maybe a four hour-walk or a five-hour walk in the hills with a backpack on.

“It’s very beneficial if you go to a high mountain before you go to Everest. Somewhere like Aconcagua in South America.”

Noel Hanna and his wife Lynne at the top of Everest (Photo: noelhanna.com)

Training the mind

Hanna suggests that the fitter you are, the more confident you’re going to feel on the mountain.

 “If you’re the weakest on a team, mentally that’s going to bring you down; if you’re one of the fittest on the team, mentally that’s keeping you strong.

“Go at your pace, don’t try and keep up with someone else just because they’re on your team, you have to go at your own body’s pace.”

Hanna’s kit list for Everest expeditions

Equipment for Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp: Duffle bag, sleeping bag, foam pad, gas lamp, gas stove, gas cylinders, personal items for washing, your favourite games, notebook

Technical equipment for ascent: Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12), rucksack 70-80 litres, rucksack 35-40 litres, harness, prussiks, karabiners with screwgate lockers – 3 items, jumar (ascender), telescope ski poles, thermos, rappel device, ice axe, head lamp, photo camera, video camera and assessors, accumulators, personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet: Trekking shoes, boots of “Everest” Millet type, down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls), Gore-tex jacket with wide hood, Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls), windblock jacket, windblock trousers, jacket “Polartec – 100”, warm underwear, personal underwear, Polartec gloves, Thinsulate gloves, Thinsulate mittens, warm woolen socks, balaclava, warm hat, windblock face mask, UV glasses, ski goggles (preferably), gaiters

Hone your ropework in the

Highlands Any technicals skills required to take on Everest can be perfected in the Scottish Highlands, or the Alps, according to Hanna.

“With Everest, there’s a technical side to it, but you don’t need to be super skilled on ropework for Everest.”

 Hanna says it is essential to religiously work on your ropework, be confident in rapelling (abseiling) and jumarring (climbing up a rope).

 Additionally, would-be Everest climbers need to be competent in clipping in and out of ropes, as well as passing anchors.

 “All of that could be done in the Highlands of Scotland or even in a climbing gym, but obviously it’s more beneficial to get in the snow with your crampons on and doing the training that way, or going to the Alps and doing Mont Blanc.”

Don’t rely on the sherpa

All climbers must be capable of doing the climb by themselves and there can be no over-reliance on sherpas.

 “A lot of people will think ‘Oh I’ve got a sherpa, if something happens to me he’s carrying me down’, but if the sherpa feels that his life is at risk he’s going to leave you.”

Tortellini and Coca-Cola

Hanna suggests that a drastic change in diet isn’t necessary for taking on the mountain.

“Some people take protein powders, but I don’t. I just eat normally, I don’t change my diet from home when I’m on the mountain because most good expeditions on the mountain, especially in the North side, get fresh stuff in all the way to base camp.

“We cook food all the way up to 7,000 metres and it’s really only on summit push at 7,700 and 8,300 that you use boil in the bag food, but normally we would have tins of tuna and foil packs of tuna.

“Ideally I like to put on maybe two or three pounds before I go to the mountain.

” Keeping yourself well fed even when your appetite fades is essential, says Hanna.

“A lot of people over 6 -7,000 metres lose their appetite. You need to force yourself to eat. It’s like a car if you don’t put petrol in it, it’s not going to go.”

 The Northern Irishman’s unconventional eating and drinking habits suggests there is room for a few home comforts when tackling the fearsome summit.

“The first year I was climbing there with a good friend of mine from Italy and he had taken tortellini pasta up with us and I had packets of tuna and we just made a lovely meal before we went to summit.

“I’ve always taken a bottle of Coke with me and I remember three years ago going for the summit – I had a small bottle of Coke – stopping to take a drink of it and as soon as I opened the lid it just exploded and 90% of the liquid inside just flew out of it with the pressure.

“I was devastated.” Noel Hanna (Photo: noelhanna.com)

 ‘There is no wall’

Hanna recommends running your own race and ignoring mountain literature that tells you exactly where you will struggle. Undoubtedly having strong mental fortitude is crucial to a successful ascent.

 “I went into climbing from endurance sports, like 100 mile runs. Somebody who has never done a marathon before, the first thing they will say to you is ‘when will I hit the wall?’ It’s a myth, it’s somebody else’s wall.

“If you’ve read a book that says you’re not meant to struggle till 7,000 metres and you’re struggling at 6,000 metres, mentally that’s going to affect you.

“I’ve seen people who struggle on their first acclimatization rotation, but once they get that sorted they’re the strongest on summit push. “I always said that 70% of it is in the head.”

 Bring a lucky charm

Making  physical, technical and mental preparations is empirical, but having a lucky charm is also of importance, says Hanna.

“My wife gave me a lucky black cat on a keyring and it’s gone to every mountain with me since 2004.

“I’m not superstitious or anything, but every single mountain that I go on, it’s attached on my rucksack.

“When I’m leaving on an expedition I need to make sure that cat’s with me.”

What does Everest mean to Hanna?

For most who complete the summit, Everest will hold a special place in their heart. For Hanna it was just another mountain – until his German Shepherd Babu passed away last year.

 “Me and my wife have a German Shepherd pup who was ten and a half years old, he passed away 10 months ago. We said if anything ever happened to him we’d take his ashes to the summit of Everest.

“That’s what me and my wife did this year, we took his ashes with us and we sprinkled them a couple metres from the summit and had a wee tearful moment for him.

“When I think of Everest now, I think of my dog’s ashes. Everest is the most thoughtful mountain for me. We don’t have any children so he was the closest thing we had.”

Read more at: https://inews.co.uk/essentials/news/uk/girls-body-image-one-three-believe-not-pretty-enough/

Climbing Mount Everest in the spring of 2016. The 7 Summits Club expedition. Filming of the RD Studio of  the Russian TV 1 Channel led by Valdis Pelsh. Yet the teaser. Total film will be released in autumn 2016.

 Public Speaking Ukrainian Summiter of Everest, expedition member of the 7 Summits Club, Tatiana Yalovchak visited Moscow. She paid tribute to the teachers in mountaineering Sergei Kovalev and Elena Kovaleva, who now live and work in the capital of Russia. Surprising  it took place almost in the form of a dialogue with the audience, which is not often. We can call it a success and a credit to both sides. The audience was curious, and Tanya spoke easily, but at the same time emotionally and honestly.

You are free to listen to excerpts of her speech

Subjectively, we note four points:

(1) Tatiana has been climbing for about 8 years. She went into the mountains as an amateur. It  is her climbing teacher Sergei Kovalev, who suggested the idea - to become the first Ukrainian Everest woman summiter. On his initiative and this meeting took place.  Many Thanks!

(2) From the beginning to the end of the expedition Tanya felt as a child.  It means full service, excellent living conditions and the best provision -  full opportunity to be focused only on their own physical condition. Quality of service 7 Summits Club praised.

(3) From the first to the last minute, Tanya had no doubt of success, never appeared  the idea that you can give up and retreat.

(4) At the urging of Alex Abramov, Tatiana decided not to make the race for the "Ukrainian championship" with another contender - Irina Galay. Tatiana went to the summit climb a day later to  avoid someone's haste. After all this haste would not only prevent the summit ascent, but also lead to more dire consequences. It's  some kind  of a moral victory of Tatiana Yalovchak.

(5) And there are no plans connected with the mountains. Rest, watch football at the European Championship, to get married and give birth...

Happiness to you Tanya! We will be still hoping to meet on a mountain trail.

May 20, 2016 Irene Kharazova raised the Armenian flag on the highest point of the world. Irene - the first Armenian, climbed Everest. In an exclusive interview, she talks about his emotions, about what attitude and preparation are needed to overcome such obstacles as it responds to her mountaineering interest  with the family and many other things.

When did you start one of the most extreme sports - rock climbing?

The desire to conquer the heights appeared at me exactly 5 years ago. I returned from Zanzibar, where she spent the holiday, and the pilot said, "And now, look to the left, it is the legendary Mount Kilimanjaro, the one who wants to afford something to prove conquer it." After arriving to Moscow, I first organized climbing. I liked it and I was involved in the project "7 Summits" - 7, the highest points on 7 continents that need to conquer. Everest – is the sixth....

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

Tatiana Yalovchak climbed Mount Everest in the team of the 7 Summits Club. She reached the summit with one of the symbols of Ukraine – an embroidered towel.

"I am happy that I brought the rushnyk with me. Our symbol of strength, goodness, beauty and peace And a part of my soul with him. Hope for prosperity and peace in Ukraine"

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ...

…

We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21

15th May we come in midlle camp. Everest was clean

On the morning of the 16th Everest began to smoke.  Getting worse...)

16th of May. In the advanced base camp (ABC) there were classes on the basics of survival. The technical part of the oxygen equipment and work with it

In the palm there is your life. Regulator. Wear near your  heart!

May 17th the familiar path to the saddle of Mount Everest to 7000m. Ahead - a string of Chinese expedition. Ropes on top yet not fixed. All hopes for Chinese

North Col

On the morning of May 18ер the Chinese have moved to the top of ...

We go after (for the Chinese)

Centered under stones  there is our advanced base camp – yellow spots

5 and a half hours, it took  the way to the camp 7,700.  Without oxygen it would  be all 7-8. Someone put in a poor tent

Here I am at home. 7700m. Behind, our goal looms

May 19th morning Sherpas moved to put the last camp. We have further 5 hours of relaxation

I admire climbers  by the window

It blows, however. Abramov said that the weather was perfect. Although sometimes difficult to resist

Traces of the past

That last camp 8300. The summit meets with flags

Everyday life above the clouds. All a bit nervous

The start is scheduled for an hour in the morning on 20 May. We skip ahead only Chinese. They go out at 11 pm. Breakfast

Half an hour later we reached the crest. The first stage of 8564m passed in the night,  not noticed, green shoes covered with snow. IPhone had  made 2 photos of second  step and had cold.

View of the third step, a pyramid and Chinese

Stylish design

Go along the ridge. Abramov said that it is just a walk.

The oxygen plan was to climb with two cylinders, and  one for the descent. One cylinder at maximum flow gives life for 4 hours. Before the third step  we  are changing the first balloon

The third stage and slow Chinese

We have passed the third step, 8710m. In front of the pyramid. With Irena Kharazova

A snowy field in front of the pyramid. With Vladimir Kotlyar and Roman Reutov

I go on the field ...

Fixed or non-fixed ropes

My Sherpa Mingma, he was on Everest 3 times from both sides

On the Everest  better  to climb at night. Pyramid

Sometimes it blows. A bit....

With acrophobia  it will be hard on Everest. Pyramid, 70 meters from the top.

What's the first thing you need to do at the top? Smoke break (Sherpas)

So how it looks. 8830

Group photo. 8848m - with Irena Kharazova

In the background, a group of climbers is coming from Nepal. 8848m

Guides, video operator and my friend makes a proposal to his girlfriend. 8848m - Vladimir Kotlyar

Abramov think, in what direction to go down, Tibet or Nepal. Lyudmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov

Like the portrait. 8848m

No higher point is on the planet. - Vladimir Kotlyar

We rest under the roof - with Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

Everest crest

Fixed rope on the crest

Changze, the northern peak of Everest.7680m

A short rest on the descent.   No sleep here - the greatest risk  not to wake up

Saddle or 4th camp on the horizon

Yet we have to descend from the saddle. To stay alive and healthy, you need to go down to the 4 day go up to 8848 down to 6410m. If the ascent took 6.5 hours, descent – 11! Without food and water - with Vladimir Kotlyar, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

At the bottom of the North Col. By tradition, the climbers on Everest left here poles - Ludmila Korobeshko

Well, 18 hours later I'm in advanced base camp

May 21th - it is  too early to relax to us . There was a run 23 km on the glacier to the base camp. Savings oxygen cylinder on top to be my sail -   with Vlad Moroz

Now the entire team of 7 Summits Club successfully descended from the mountains and now is preparing  packs.

 Tomorrow, on the 25th we leave by cars in Shigatse and the day after (May 26) we plan on the flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu.

And now for an hour to relax and to take stock:

27 people on the top of Mount Everest!

15 members and guides + 12 Sherpas.

Several Russian and World Records! About its - below ...

Decisions on the graphics  were  difficult this year. Weather did not allow to take unequivocal decisions. Always it was snowing and it seemed that the monsoon has arrived. But the state of the route for the ascent was terrific. All the rocky areas and sloping rock slabs were covered with a thick layer of snow and firn. This allowed the speed of movement along the entire route to be the fastest.

And, nevertheless, we note that the long experience of leadership helped us to choose the best two days for climbing. That led to such a great success!

Summiters of May 20:

Abramov  Alexander (7 times)

Korobeshko Lyudmila (3 times) woman,

Kharazova Irena woman,

Moroz Vladislav,

Reutov Roman,

Pimenov Oleg,

Kotlyar Vladimir (all – Russia),

and a woman Lakpa Sherpa, USA - Nepal (7th time at the top of Mount Everest)

plus 7 Sherpas.

Summiters on May 21:

Hannah Noel (8 times),

Hannah Lynn (2 times), woman both – Northern  Ireland,

Sergey Larin (5 times),

Provalov Denis (2 times),

Demyanenko Igor (Russia),

Kochanski Janusz (Poland),

Yalovchak Tatiana, woman (Ukraine),

Plus 5 Sherpas.

We have once again proved that the 7 Summits Club team was not only the biggest and well secured on the North side of Everest, but also the most experienced and most successful. 15 of the 16 members of the expedition reached the summit. One participant climbed up only to 8500 m, for health reasons.

And most importantly, that all are alive and healthy, cheerful and happy, and all remained friends.

The leader  of the 14th expedition on Everest  of the 7 Summits Club

Alexander Abramov

Record achievements of the expedition:

** Lhakpa Sherpa - the first woman of the 7th seven times ascended Mount Everest.

Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko - the first married couple, three times to climb Mount Everest.

Noel and Lynn Hannah - the first married couple to climb Everest by two routes.

Ludmila Korobeshko – new record of Russia and Europe in the number of ascents on Mount Everest among women.

Alexander Abramov - the first Russian in the 7th time to climb Mount Everest.

May 20th, 2016, 8 a.m.  Nepal time. The Flag of the 1st Russian women's Everest expedition raised above the highest peak of the planet.

Two climber of our women's team were able to climb to the top - Ludmila Korobeshko and Irena Kharazova. Liana Chabdarova is not reached about 300 m vertically.

The last days before the assault she was on analgesics, overcoming back pain. On the night of the assault, it became clear that if the whole team will go at the pace of Liana, the successful achievement of the summit can be jeopardized. Liana was able to take a courageous decision not to delay the group and turn back from the ridge.

On the day of a successful assault on the top of May 20, all participants descended in the evening into the advanced base camp ABC at 6400.

May 21th the second group of 7 Summits Club climbed to the top - under the direction of Sergei Larin and Noel Hanna. Today, May 22th, after almost some rest all members descended to the base camp at 5200  (some people are still on the way and will come in an hour or two).

All members feel well. Tomorrow, May 23th – for celebration. May 24th, we hope to go in the direction of Lhasa and 26 May  to fly to Kathmandu.

Space. We are at 8700 m, passed the third stage.

It is about an hour before the top.

The yellow-blue trousers - it is Irena Kharazova. She clearly knew that the Cosmos begins after the Second Step (a key part of the route) - here every man  is for himself, no one can save ...

Only after passing the SecondStep and approaching the Third, she accidentally discovered with horror that is already more than an hour in space, cruel and merciless ...

 The only thing she begged her Sherpa - in the event of her death, he did not leave her body there, among other bodies. So he will found the opportunity to bring the Sherpa team and to pull down her body.

Thank God - she is now healthy and very happy sitting in BC and enjoying life :)

As promised, we  took at the top of Everest a small icon, which we gave Fedor Konyukhov, blessing our expedition in Moscow before leaving. More Fedor said that he will continue to pray for us. I think, also thanks to his prayers, we all went well.

By the way!

Luda became  the record holder of Europe in the number of climbing Mount Everest!

She is also the only woman in the world twice to finish the program "Seven Summits".

 And with Alexander Abramov - the first three times the couple ascended Mount Everest!

The second group is at the top:

Dennis Provalov and Igor Demyanenko (at 6:20),

Noel Hannah (at 6:45),

Lynn  Hannah,

Janusz Kochanski,

Sergej Larin and Tatiana Yalovchak!

Successful descent!

 Members of the first group safely descended to ABC camp yesterday and today go to base camp: Liana Chabdarova, Irena Hazarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko will be waiting for the descent of the second group.

Roman Reutov stopped at the North Col for making pictures, and now  he  plans to descend to base camp ...

Today at 5 a.m. on Nepal Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest. This is her 7th summit (the world record for the women). By 8 a.m., the first group  of  7 Summits Club expedition was standing on top of the world,  as follows:

Alexander Abramov (7th time at the top)

Lyudmila Korobeshko (3rd time at the top)

Alex and Luda - the world's first couple three times  climbed Mount Everest

Vladimir Kotlyar,

Roman Reutov,

Irena Kharazova,

Vlad Moroz,

Oleg Pimenov.

Liana Chabdarova was forced to stop climbing on 8500 due to a headache.

 Now all go down in order to reach to the evening camp ABC at 6400 ...

 Follow the progress of the second group on-line !!!

From Press release The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from a height of 7700 meters. Our Sherpas have already left the camp and go up. Our team will start at 11 am up to 8300. Luda Korobeshko and Liana Chabdarova will go .... a little earlier. With them Vladimir Kotlyar will go, our operator. That's the plan. Next message, I hope to send from 8300.  Weather wow, a strong wind blows. That is all, Bye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov. We pertly went to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters. The Weather is perfect. The team is in almost perfect condition. All participants seek for the summit. Tomorrow we go up to the camp at  8300 meters.

 Bye!

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from the North Col of Everest. The weather is beautiful, our first team moves up. Today, according to the plan we do clinb to a height of 7600 meters. Tomorrow – on 8300,    and the day after tomorrow, on May 20, should be a summit bid. In our first team: Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Irena Kharazova, Liana Chabdarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz, Roma Reutov  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Eight people.  Everyone feels fine. The weather is beautiful, the prospects - excellent! Bye!

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Lhakpa Sherpa – 7th summit, world woman record.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

  https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

The Everest Team of the 7 Summits Club is in the ABC camp at an altitude of 6400 meters. All expedition members are healthy and ready for the ascent. As long as we have to wait. There is nothing strange happens - it happens every year. Chinese (Tibetan) climbers are going to go to complete the processing of the route, the expedition is expected in full combat readiness

Listen to audio message:

May 15^th on the first group going up:

- Women's Russian team (Irena Kharazova,  Liana Chabdarova and Lyudmila Korobeshko);

- Vlad Moroz;

- Oleg Pimenov;

- Roman Reutov;

- Vladimir Kotlyar;

- Alexander Abramov.

For  the summit bid in a window on May 20-21

May 16^th  the second group starts:

- Noel Hanna;

- Hannah Lynn;

- Janusz Kochanski;

- Tatiana Yalovchak;

- Igor Demyanenko;

- Sergej Larin;

- Denis Provalov.

For the summit bid in a window on May 21-22

With the second  group, but only to the North Col:

- Jamila Murtazina;

- Maxim Shakirov;

- Przemysław Simeon (Noel Group videooperator)

- Zbignew Wolny  (Noel Group videooperator)

- Alexander Kubasov (RD studio videooperator).

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Lying in the Base Camp in a sleeping bag  it is easier to think than at 7000.

What's happening? Yes, as usual, the Chinese pulled with a fixed ropes. The Weather is snowing. The route has more than 1 m of snow. Wind is weak. It does not blow away the snow.

We rest in the lower camps. Yesterday there was a concert of guitar music and singing. Moveв for cinema. They took as participants go to bed. What else to move?

At the Base Camp and other camps in the abstract there are several Ukrainian girls, each of whom wants to climb Mount Everest. But they have feeble chance. And girls are slender,  gaunt already by waiting. Our Tanya is full of strength and desire!

In general, all are alive and healthy. And ready to storm.

It is kaif - in the morning to lie in a tent and philosophize. ))

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our impulse to move sharply upward was stopped by snow and the lack of a fixed ropes. But this, in some sense, the audit showed the willingness of absolutely all the participants for the assault at any moment.

We now have probably the most difficult period of the expedition.  First of all psychologically – it is waiting with so many ever-changing introductory. The weather forecast  changes daily (or more accurately, no end of snowfall). Normal and good window is not visible.

 Information from the Chinese changed about when they will finish fixing ropes to the summit. So there are many reasons  to be fidgety. We are encouraged by the fact that no one in our team use it. Everyone understands that patience– it is a  part of successful expedition.

Almost all participants had been ill, stopped to wash (to not get sick again;), everything getting thinner and tanned, we got used to each other.

Today we go to the Middle Camp to 5800. While as on the trip, but we'll see ...

 Yesterday, almost all members of the team went to the Old Monastery Rongbuk ...

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9^th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.