Our club's news - Page 6

Sergei Dudko and Dmitry Krasnov, few days ago, have climbed the highest point in North America - Mount McKinley (Denali). Thus, they have successfully completed the 7 Summits project!

We heartily congratulate the guys on this achievement!

It should be noted that the harsh Alaskan mountains had given the guys a hard time. Almost a week they were forced to wait in Talkeetna for Flight glacier because of the prolonged bad weather. But when they still managed to be on the Kahiltna Glacier, guys rushed up and in record time. For 7 days the literally ran up to the top.

We are waiting for heroes on 7 Summit Club evening of June 26, where we presented them with honorary diplomas. We invite all to listen to their story of the project completion of the 7 Summits.

Left to right: Dmitry Krasnov, Sergei Dudko, Maxut Zhumaev (went solo McKinley) and Vladimir Doronin.

2013 inscribed very dark page in the history of mountaineering: in Pakistan, at the foot of the mountain Nanga Parbat terrorists shot 10 climbers from different countries. Among them three were from Ukraine, from the city of Kharkiv, one of which, Igor Svergun was a close friend of our Club. We honor his memory. In December in Kharkov they published a book about Igor and his friends. Now you can buy it in our Club (Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya street, the house 7, 2nd floor).

It should be noted that it is a charitable project and all funds received from the realization of the project will be transferred to a family of Igor Svergun.

Igor Svergun

(1966-2013)

Master of sports in mountaineering (1989), MS international level (1991), instructor-methodologist of the 3rd category. Igor started climbing in 1984 in section climbing club of the Kharkov Polytechnic Institute. The first ascent was made on the Peak Semenov-Bashi. First instructor – G. Artemenko. Climb in the Himalayas: Lhotse South face - up to the height of 8,200 m, 1990; traverse Manaslu (with V. Pastukh and A. Makarov) - 1991; Everest, South peak - 8790 m, 1992; Dhaulagiri, 8167, 1994; Annapurna (Bonington route), 1996; Shishapangma (in Alpine style), and Ама Dablam and Pumori, 1998; Cho Oyu, 8201 m, 2004; Everest, 8848 meters, NE Ridge, 2005 and 2006 (as a guide of the 7 summits Club). Igor had made in the mountains of 25 routes highest grade difficulty. In 1999, during Ukrainian ascent on Everest Igor participated in the unprecedented transportation of V. Gorbach from the height of 8600 meters. His climbing achievements were awarded with government awards of the USSR and Ukraine.

In August we visited the graves of Kharkiv climbers:

The Club leaders has long been traveling. During this time, Russia received one more winner of the Seven summits. This is Igor Kadochin. Dima Ermakov, as a guide of the group climbing the final peak of The Seven - Mount Vinson, this is promptly informed in the day of climbing. Now we all join in the congratulations! New achievements, new heights!

Banner of Komsomolsk-on-Amur on top of the world. Igor Kadochin picked it up.

Igor Kadochin - Director of LLC Trade house «Sun» in this glorious city. Igor was one of the heroes of the seven summits, you can see on our Chronicles, how cruel tests they were offered: Aconcagua, McKinley, Everest.... All overcame. Hero!

Seven Summits Club, Hello! This Andrey Filkov from the camp Union Glacier, from Antarctica. Today, December 31,  the local time is still 18 hours 48 minutes. Here we come together: the team of climbers from the expedition on Sidley, which has just ended, and the expedition to Vinson, which is still held under the leadership of Dima Ermakov. We are gathered here today to celebrate the New Year, which was going along our great country ... We started to celebrate at 10 am local time, when the New Year has come to the Far East. And we continue, passing the cities of our country Russia.

New Year greetings to all our friends, all our friends! Anyone who has followed our expedition, Thanks a lot ! Best wishes !

Pictures from this season:

A part of workers, guides and friends of the Seven Summits Club held in a festive evening on December 24 at the restaurant Chalet (Kant). It was dedicated to celebrating the New Year. Results of the outgoing year were found to be successful, it was an eventful year and informative.

The main hero of the year was Olga Rumyantseva, she made the 7 Volcanoes Program solo, on one year and without interrupting the production process. Alexander Abramov counted his 19 climbed summits. Wow! A good year - we decided to make it a tradition . That is, in the future to keep the pace and scope. Health to all ! Peace and prosperity !

The evening party 24.10.2013 was wonderful. Everyone enjoyed it. Guest appearances were excellent. Vitaly Simonovic, Denis Provalov and Valery Rozov spoke with great enthusiasm, showed interesting pictures and videos. At the same time, all had plenty of time for informal communication. We will wait for the next meeting, join us!

Marianna from Tyva: a dance with ice-axe...

We invite all our friends, clubmen, participants of our travelers, everything who wants to get acquainted with our activity. You will be able to see the brightest stars of sports, to have a bite and drink beer in their company. We INVITE! On October 24 at 20-00. Shop Outdoor activities,Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya St. 7.

Main subjects:

EVEREST: jump from Northern Summit of Everest. World record on height exit.

The speaker – Valery Rozov.

 Denis Provalov's world record. The deepest cave and the highest mountain.

Vitaly Simonovich's world record. For two years from the beginner to the finish at once two programs:  7 Summits and 7 Volcanoes.

Traditional leading speaker: Alex Abramov

How to find us

While a majority of members of the Global heroic expedition of the 7 Summits Club was quick to return home , a tireless Vitaly Simonovic continued to perform feats . After climbing to the top of Carstensz Pyramid, he stayed on the "green" continent and climbed the highest peak in mainland Australia, Mount Kosciuszko.

Thus, Vitaly has successfully completed the 7 Summits in two versions : with Carstens Pyramid and Kosciuszko. Interestingly, that he began his march over tops of the world relatively recently - in 2011, with Kilimanjaro. And such a quick result - 7 Summits, for a little more than 2 years .

By the way, Vitali is also close to the completion of Project 7 Volcanoes, it remained only to climb to the two volcanoes: Orizaba and Ojos. Both ascents are scheduled for the next three six months.

So, there is a chance that Vitaly Simonovich will be the fastest man in the world who have completed two programs at once : 7 Summits 7 and Volcanoes. And he can also add the Poles !

And once again we congratulate our members of the Global Expedition Elena Gorelik and Mikhail Turowski , who also successfully completed the 7 Summits program on Version 7 + 1.

The 7 Summits Club Club President Alex Abramov was hardly thinking, how and where he should celebrate his forthcoming 50th anniversary. It was an idea was to go alone from the South Pole to the ocean coast. There were other thoughts. But he accepted a decision, as always, non-trivial: to meet the anniversary at the top of the highest volcano of the World -Ojos del Salado! At an altitude of 6893 meters. And thus, to complete the project 7 Volcanoes. Now Alex went to a "global" expedition, which plans to climb the tallest volcano inAustralia–MountGiluve. If nothing unexpected happens, then on his return only the seventh volcanoOjos del Saladowill be to climb to finish the program.

YOU HAVE THEOPPORTUNITYTO JOIN jubilee expedition of Alexander Abramov!

Alexander Abramov invites everyone to Ojos. The program begins - January 3. Group size is limited.

The program is available here >>>>>>>

/programs/all/region_9/country_231/program_36/

Vladimir Shataev: secrets of the mastery of the legendary climber.

The legendary mountaineer domestic Vladimir Shataev came Received Yoki.ru personally than not a little surprised. It's no joke, our guest this "Snow Leopard". The idea is we must have to go to him at the meeting, armed with a tape recorder and camera. However, Vladimir Nikolayevich, a modest man, democratic, open and "star does not suffer from the disease." Conversely, a lively interest in what is happening and willingly share their experiences, memories and experiences.

Vladimir Nikolayevich, we know that your "mountain" experience includes 46 years of almost continuous practice. And how you came to climbing?

When I was 15 years old, I lived with my aunt in Kislovodsk and every day saw Elbrus. Of course - this spectacle thrilled boyish imagination, I found a partner and we both went to the foot of the mountain. Imagine that we had nothing with him except the blankets. When three years ago, I traveled by car to the places he himself was surprised. It is unclear how we as children were 70 kilometers without equipment. But the fact remains that at the breaking point we reached the glacier, though it nearly killed crossing a river. When we returned back, I'm his friend said that up to 25 years of age must climb Elbrus.

After this incident, I was seriously interested in rock climbing , began to study books. Realizing how difficult and dangerous this sport. By the time I was seriously engaged in athletics came in "Spartacus" and got a ticket to the base in the Caucasus. As a result, in 1922 I already had two climb Elbrus . And then have dragged on, eventually I became an instructor.

As you consider how much of modern Russian youth is interested in climbing?

Judge for yourself in the Soviet Union officially climbing involved 35,000 people. Today, such statistics are not, in my estimation are constantly traveling to the mountains around 5,000 climbers. And - this is a high-level athletes who are on the shoulder 6A level and above. In fact - they are elite.

But, unfortunately, they have about 40 years. That is, those who came to climbing back in the old days. Young people too. The last two or three years, the interest appears to be enhanced. Moreover, that the different committees allocate funds for the development of mountain sport. Therefore znachkisty and dischargers have the opportunity to travel to the mountains.

True, climbing still can not now be called a mass sport. The main problem is that actually stayed bases. Only in the Caucasus remained the camp. For young people had all been available, voucher worth 30 rubles. And now the system is completely destroyed, it is not restored.

However, for example, in Moscow there are about 20 clubs, where you can practice and mountaineering and climbing.

By the way, what is the difference between rock climbing and mountaineering?

Paradoxical. But those who engaged in rock climbing, mostly rocks themselves do not even see. Previously, indeed often the competitions among the climbers, athletes climbed to the natural topography. And now everything is being done in the halls, on the artificial surface.

Climbers imagine this can not. They need the mountains, a real relief, and nature. In addition, climbing expensive, because the necessary equipment. The same backpack, ice pick, crampons, all worth serious money.

p align = "justify"> climbing all over the world called sport climbing. In some countries, like France, it is taught as a separate discipline. Indeed, children like to climb, why not develop and does not pay for the benefit of the child.
Vladimir Nikolaevich, saying that you have conquered all "seventhousanders?

I have a 113 number in the "Snow Leopard" (laughs)
("Snow Leopard" - is official and an extremely rare title in mountaineering. For him the assignment it was necessary to conquer the all seventhousanders the former Soviet Union: Communism peak, Lenin, Victory Korjenevskaya. Then he added another of Khan-Tengri).

And outside the Soviet Union, where were you?

I was at eight-two.: Shisha Pangma and Everest. Also, I involuntarily participated in the program climb to the highest point of the continents: Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, McKinley in North America, Aconcagua in South America, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Kosciusko in Australia and Vinson in Antarctica. Of these I have left to conquer only Vinson, though hard to get to Antarctica, this requires 30 thousand dollars.

Interestingly, the man leads in the mountains? "What kind of feelings he feels, being on top?

Some special feelings on the top of the conquered rarely feel. Usually not before. Although, if itineraries lighter lucky with the weather and see from the height of all this beauty, it certainly touches the heart. It would be desirable for an hour or half to stay there and watch. This gives a charge of vivacity that his missing almost a year.

Why do people go to the mountains ... all individually. One way to overcome this yourself, others want to demonstrate their power, others seek escape from the routine and bytovuhi that surrounds it. Fourth, for example, in the mountains can guide the groups, but in life to be ordinary clerical and invisible people. In the mountains, it changes, it is the head, depends on him a lot, almost every step. Not by accident earlier among climbers had a lot of physicists, chemists, scientists. People dumb distant from real life. Those who took a mountaineering school, many life situations are more easily overcome. Indeed, in the mountains, they face challenges that require a momentary solution: have the tent set and the food is cooking, and washing, and negotiate with the drivers of cars.

Sounds in the mountains ... What are they?

Silence. Than the quieter the better. I remember one of the most wonderful moments when we go on-Shisha Pangma. I left the base camp along a small mountain stream in which trout splashing and just two o'clock sat in that silence.

You meet a strange? Yeti, for example.

There are also strange, and luck, which then settle in mountaineering folklore. And that's not Bigfoot , or UFOs are not met.

Extreme situations are? After all, the group may consist of climbers to the preparation of various levels ..

Extreme sports in the mountains - it is a natural situation. Any bad weather, storm, already fraught with troubles. Security depends on the manager. Sometimes "gornyashka" (mountain sickness) is such that people have to bear. From lack of oxygen a person can be either a lack of energy, apathy or irritability.We had a case where people just sat down and decided not to go any further, I had to take his backpack and get to follow her footsteps. It is true, then he crossed himself and walked to the summit - 6100

And what more difficult to climb or descend?

Fifty-fifty, although some believe that to go down harder.

What's in your future plans?

Just a few days we will travel to Turkey on Ararat . This will be My sixth ascent of the famous mountain.

On this expedition Yoki.ru tell our readers a later date.

Vladimir Shataev:

Born May 1, 1937

Awarded:
The medal "For Labour Valour - 10/05/1972 city (№ 165197);
The Order of Honour - 01/09/1990 city (№ 1524514);
Medal "Veteran of Labour" - 5/22/1985 city;
Medal "For the glory of Ossetia" - June 1995;
Commander of the Order "Edelweiss", 1 st degree (№ 09);
Anniversary medal "Golden Jubilee of Mount Everest (Nepal).

Began athletics in 1955 - two-Union junior record in the relay 4 ? 800 meters.

Went to the mountains in 1959: the first peak in the Caucasus - Gumachi (3,805 m).
Graduated from high school instructor in 1961 at the climber camp "Dzhantugan"

Currently, public office: President, Union of mountaineers and rock climbers from Russia on Feb. 7, 2000, Executive Secretary of the Mountaineering Federation of Russia with 20 November 1993, Executive Secretary of the Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing on December 1, 1996. Member of the Board of the International Union of climbing Associations (UIAA) - 1997-2000.

On Saturday, a large delegation of 7 Summits Club visited Sablino village nearSt. Petersburg. There is the traditional place of training for ice-climbing techniques. Good pictures convey the seriousness and complexity of the training runs. In the pictures you can see Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Alexey Lonchinsky Paul Laktyushkin, Constantine Vasenko and others .... A traditional festival "Foot of Russia" was held in the suburbs ofMoscow, in Romashkovo. A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev won the race on snowshoes.

The President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov spent several days in the Elbrus region. It was a business trip. In the village of Terskol there is a branch of 7 Summits Club. Here we opened a rental of ski and mountaineering equipment, a service for tourists from Russia and around the world. It was necessary to solve a number of important organizational tasks and to get managerial report. However, when the weather is such wonderful, how can you sit in the office? Therefore, Alex and the Branch Director Anna Dymova took snowshoes and went into the woods. In support of them went dog of Anna. During the two hour walk, they made a couple of dozen good pictures. Snowshoeing is good, and skiing is good too. Slopes in the region are in excellent condition, great for skiing, snow is soft, there no crowd….

Elbrus is waiting for you. The route of ascent on Elbrus is still in the ice condition. But by April, the ice should be reduced. See our programs…

Alexander Abramov has recently returned fromAntarctica. So snow and ice was not scared him. And then there, and God himself commanded.

An old Russian tradition.

After Antarctica craving for cold Epiphany on a fine frosty day.

Alex Abramov and his son Maxim after bathing.

Let's count.

(1) Alexander Abramov with four comrades goes by ski to the South Pole - the program "Last Degree".

(2) According to the plan 10th of January, Vyacheslav Adrov and Vitali Simonovich  start for the program climbing the highest volcano in Antarctica Mount Sidley.

(3) Large group (12 people) began its long journey to the summit of Aconcagua. Guides our Club: Dmitry Ermakov and Denis Saveliev.

(4) Another large group (10 people, guide Artem Rostovtsev) began the program Climb of Kilimanjaro. They will also visit a safari and Zanzibar.

(5) Another large group (12 people + 1 guide) started with a program of  the climb of Kilimanjaro one day earlier, on January 2. This is - a joint project of the Donetsk Vertical-Tour and 7 Summits Club. Most of the participants are from teh city Donetsk, as well as guide Vyacheslav Vyblov.

Just a few small groups of Kilimanjaro travel by programs of basic services:

(6) - January 2, Machame route

(7) - January 3, Marangu route

(8) - from January 7 to Machame Route with Safari and Zanzibar.

For individual applications travel the following members of our Club.

(9) Jamil Manizada met the New Year at the top of the highest mount in Australia (island and contitnent)Mount Kosciuszko

(10) Mary Dyachenko celebrated the New Year in Mexico, climbing Orizaba.

(11) We have a group in Indonesia, on the islands and volcanoes.

(12) Tomorrow, January 6, the Group of 7 Summits Club arrives for trekking to Everest Base Camp.

(13) On January 3th  a group of our Club came in Morocco. The program includes: -climbing the highest peak in North Africa -MountToubkal and excursions to historical places.

(14) Finally, three days later, on January 9th, another group of 7 Summits Club will start to Chile. Program: Climbing the highest volcano of the World Ojos del Salado,  and after that  make Patagonia cruises and tour wineries in Chile.

Total - 14 teams for the New Year and the first half of January. Our personal best record.

It was not like a Congress, it was a real holiday.Holidayof meetings, celebration of gratitude. More than 60 climbers from 10 countries of the former Soviet Union gathered in the lecture hall of thePolytechnicMuseum. UIAA President Fritz Vrejlandt was a guest of honor of the event. All the climbers on Everest were awarded by Commemorative " Mount Everest Climber", specially made for this day. All members of the Congress and the spectators were unanimous gratitude to the organizers.

Fritz Vrejlandt

Mountaineering Federation of Russia and the 7 Summits Club were the organizers of this unforgettable event.

Veteran of mountaineering, Professor Ivan Bogachev spoke about the history of preparation of the first expedition to Everest in theSoviet Union. The decision was made in 1948. Legendary Eugene Abalakov was then the main initiator of the organization of the expedition. After his death, Kirill Kuzmin took the preparation for Everest for himself. In 1959, an expedition was completely ready, but her departure was canceled due to the uprising in Tibet.

Only in 1982, the dream was realized for our climbers. 11 climbers have reached the top of the World by a new, very difficult route. This achievement has had a huge impact on all of us.

Climbers of 1982

In 1990, the new Russian flag was first raised on Everest. President of the Russian mountaineering federation Andrey Volkov was then among climbers.

In 1996, a team fromKrasnoyarskopened a new route (couloir Zakharova) on the northeast side ofMount Everest. In 2004, the national team under the leadership of Viktor Kozlov made a new route on the center of the North Face of Everest.

In the new century, a new life has come to Everest. Alexander Abramov, became a main person inRussiaon Everest. Total Alex participated in 12 expeditions to Everest, 10 of them as a leader. Dozens of climbers thanked him for his help in the realization of their dream.

Alex (on the left) and apart of the 7 Summits Clib Everest summiters

Photos of Danila Kolodin

Summiters from Ukraine (from left): Victor Bobok (3 different routes), Sergey Kovalev,Sergey Bershov, Mstislav Gorbenko, Igor Svergun, Alexey Bokov

Ivan Dusharin (3 times) came direct from Mount Kosciuszko

 (project Alpari - 7 Summits for 300 days)

 Anatoly Ovchinnikov - 85 years

Kazbek Khamitsaev from North Osetia

Kazbek Valiev

Fritz Vrejlandt and Andrey Volkov

Sergey Bershov

Vladimir Shataev

Maxut Zhumaev and Visily Pevtsov

Alexey Ovchinnikov, Sergey Bershov and Anna Arinina (second Russian woman on Everest)

Victor Kozlov

Alltogher

Member of the 7 Summits Club, our good friend Andrey Podolyan climbed Mount Kosciuszko almost simultaneously with the team of "Alpari on top of the world." This was his crowning ascent program 7 Summits. 7 Summits Club congratulates Andrey and wishes new heights! Bravo!

Seven Summits of Andrey Podolyan:

Kilimanjaro, September 5, 2009

Aconcagua, February 11, 2010

Elbrus, August 1, 2010

Vinson, 23 December 2010

Everest, May 20, 2011

McKinley, July 5, 2012

Kosciuszko, 05 November 2012.

Everest 2011 www.vidgeversa.ru

And also:

Communism Peak, August 18, 2012

KorjenevskayaPeak, August 10, 2012

Andrey Podolyanu 40. He lives in Velsk,Arkhangels kregion. He was born and grew up in this area in the north of Russia. Andrey is one of the most successful businessmen in the area. He paid much attention to charity, built a church, built sport hill and did a lot of other good things. Andrey was a paratrooper in the Army, he is fond of hot-air balloons. Andrey now has the biggest balloon in Russia.

Employees trip of 7 Summits Club in Velsk, to visit Andrey Podolyanu. Photography.

https://7vershin.ru/news/all/item_2438/

Alex Abramov, Alexandr Ruchkin, Dmitry Ermakov, Dmitry Golovtchenko and others

As usual at the end of September, the 7 Summits Club celebrates the birthday of the company. On this occasion, we invite guests and cover the tables.

Alexander Abramov made a short report on the summer season. Lyudmila Korobeshko described the course of the program "Alpari on top of the world." The main guest of the evening, Alexander Ruchkin twice went to the scene to show the most exciting footage of his legendary climbs. Alexey Kabanov told about the ascent of theMatterhornwith Denis Savelyev and Roman Gretzky. Arthur Gladyshev with guitar suited song interludes. And of course, of particular interest to the audience called the first report of the climbing team ofMoscow. They climbed a new route on one and the most beautiful and remote mountains of the world -MuztaghTower.

Vladimir Shataev was presented to a guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Ermakov an icon Snow Leopard. And also gave a rare book, published minimum circulation – about the first oxygen-free ascent of Everest.

Traditional evening meetings of friends 7 Summits Club will be on 27th of September. It will be focused on the end of the summer season and our birthday. The legendary Russian climber Alexander Ruchkin will act as the chief guest. And for the first time, theMoscow team members will present a new route to the summit of Muztagh Tower. Guides of our Club spent the summer on the mountain routes of the world and they have stories to tell. We will also present our future plans.

As usual in September the 7 Summits Club celebrates another birthday. So we will lay the table and, as usual, you will be a raffle prizes and gifts.

September 27, next Thursday, at 20.00 in the store "Aktivny Otdykh" (Bask) at m.Prospekt World ul.B.Pereyaslavskaya, 7

Alexander Ruchkin

Muztagh Tower and the Moscow Team

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club, finished 25th in the competition Ultra-Tour du Mont Blanc. Start was August 31, finish - September 1. Artem was the first runner fromRussiawho took part in this prestigious competition. His time was 13 hours, 41 minutes.

Frenchman Francois d’Haene was the overall winner of the 103km race, with a time of 10 hrs 31mins 30 secs, 31 minutes ahead of Swede Jonas Buud, withUSathlete Michael Foote third with a time of 11 hrs 19 mins 0 secs.

Lizzy Hawker (GB) crossed the finishing line atChamonixin 12hrs 32mins 13secs to take the women’s title early this morning in the tenth running of the event.

She came in 16th overall in a race shortened and switched to a different course because of severe weather conditions. Lizzy Hawker finished 45 minutes ahead of second-place Francesca Canepa.

This year’s Ultra-Tour du Mont Blanc took place wholly inFrance.

Difficult weather conditions high on some of the Alpine passes forced organisers to alter the route to avoid some areas, meaning runners will not pass throughItalyandSwitzerlandas in previous years.

The course has been shortened as a result to 100km, and the new route will entail about 6,000m of ascent.

Organisers said conditions on the Col du Bonhomme, Col de la Seigne and Grand Col Ferret were too difficult to run the race over.