Our club's news

The 7 Summits Club Club President Alex Abramov was hardly thinking, how and where he should celebrate his forthcoming 50th anniversary. It was an idea was to go alone from the South Pole to the ocean coast. There were other thoughts. But he accepted a decision, as always, non-trivial: to meet the anniversary at the top of the highest volcano of the World -Ojos del Salado! At an altitude of 6893 meters. And thus, to complete the project 7 Volcanoes. Now Alex went to a "global" expedition, which plans to climb the tallest volcano inAustralia–MountGiluve. If nothing unexpected happens, then on his return only the seventh volcanoOjos del Saladowill be to climb to finish the program.

YOU HAVE THEOPPORTUNITYTO JOIN jubilee expedition of Alexander Abramov!

Alexander Abramov invites everyone to Ojos. The program begins - January 3. Group size is limited.

The program is available here >>>>>>>

/programs/all/region_9/country_231/program_36/

Vladimir Shataev: secrets of the mastery of the legendary climber.

The legendary mountaineer domestic Vladimir Shataev came Received Yoki.ru personally than not a little surprised. It's no joke, our guest this "Snow Leopard". The idea is we must have to go to him at the meeting, armed with a tape recorder and camera. However, Vladimir Nikolayevich, a modest man, democratic, open and "star does not suffer from the disease." Conversely, a lively interest in what is happening and willingly share their experiences, memories and experiences.

Vladimir Nikolayevich, we know that your "mountain" experience includes 46 years of almost continuous practice. And how you came to climbing?

When I was 15 years old, I lived with my aunt in Kislovodsk and every day saw Elbrus. Of course - this spectacle thrilled boyish imagination, I found a partner and we both went to the foot of the mountain. Imagine that we had nothing with him except the blankets. When three years ago, I traveled by car to the places he himself was surprised. It is unclear how we as children were 70 kilometers without equipment. But the fact remains that at the breaking point we reached the glacier, though it nearly killed crossing a river. When we returned back, I'm his friend said that up to 25 years of age must climb Elbrus.

After this incident, I was seriously interested in rock climbing , began to study books. Realizing how difficult and dangerous this sport. By the time I was seriously engaged in athletics came in "Spartacus" and got a ticket to the base in the Caucasus. As a result, in 1922 I already had two climb Elbrus . And then have dragged on, eventually I became an instructor.

As you consider how much of modern Russian youth is interested in climbing?

Judge for yourself in the Soviet Union officially climbing involved 35,000 people. Today, such statistics are not, in my estimation are constantly traveling to the mountains around 5,000 climbers. And - this is a high-level athletes who are on the shoulder 6A level and above. In fact - they are elite.

But, unfortunately, they have about 40 years. That is, those who came to climbing back in the old days. Young people too. The last two or three years, the interest appears to be enhanced. Moreover, that the different committees allocate funds for the development of mountain sport. Therefore znachkisty and dischargers have the opportunity to travel to the mountains.

True, climbing still can not now be called a mass sport. The main problem is that actually stayed bases. Only in the Caucasus remained the camp. For young people had all been available, voucher worth 30 rubles. And now the system is completely destroyed, it is not restored.

However, for example, in Moscow there are about 20 clubs, where you can practice and mountaineering and climbing.

By the way, what is the difference between rock climbing and mountaineering?

Paradoxical. But those who engaged in rock climbing, mostly rocks themselves do not even see. Previously, indeed often the competitions among the climbers, athletes climbed to the natural topography. And now everything is being done in the halls, on the artificial surface.

Climbers imagine this can not. They need the mountains, a real relief, and nature. In addition, climbing expensive, because the necessary equipment. The same backpack, ice pick, crampons, all worth serious money.

p align = "justify"> climbing all over the world called sport climbing. In some countries, like France, it is taught as a separate discipline. Indeed, children like to climb, why not develop and does not pay for the benefit of the child.
Vladimir Nikolaevich, saying that you have conquered all "seventhousanders?

I have a 113 number in the "Snow Leopard" (laughs)
("Snow Leopard" - is official and an extremely rare title in mountaineering. For him the assignment it was necessary to conquer the all seventhousanders the former Soviet Union: Communism peak, Lenin, Victory Korjenevskaya. Then he added another of Khan-Tengri).

And outside the Soviet Union, where were you?

I was at eight-two.: Shisha Pangma and Everest. Also, I involuntarily participated in the program climb to the highest point of the continents: Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, McKinley in North America, Aconcagua in South America, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Kosciusko in Australia and Vinson in Antarctica. Of these I have left to conquer only Vinson, though hard to get to Antarctica, this requires 30 thousand dollars.

Interestingly, the man leads in the mountains? "What kind of feelings he feels, being on top?

Some special feelings on the top of the conquered rarely feel. Usually not before. Although, if itineraries lighter lucky with the weather and see from the height of all this beauty, it certainly touches the heart. It would be desirable for an hour or half to stay there and watch. This gives a charge of vivacity that his missing almost a year.

Why do people go to the mountains ... all individually. One way to overcome this yourself, others want to demonstrate their power, others seek escape from the routine and bytovuhi that surrounds it. Fourth, for example, in the mountains can guide the groups, but in life to be ordinary clerical and invisible people. In the mountains, it changes, it is the head, depends on him a lot, almost every step. Not by accident earlier among climbers had a lot of physicists, chemists, scientists. People dumb distant from real life. Those who took a mountaineering school, many life situations are more easily overcome. Indeed, in the mountains, they face challenges that require a momentary solution: have the tent set and the food is cooking, and washing, and negotiate with the drivers of cars.

Sounds in the mountains ... What are they?

Silence. Than the quieter the better. I remember one of the most wonderful moments when we go on-Shisha Pangma. I left the base camp along a small mountain stream in which trout splashing and just two o'clock sat in that silence.

You meet a strange? Yeti, for example.

There are also strange, and luck, which then settle in mountaineering folklore. And that's not Bigfoot , or UFOs are not met.

Extreme situations are? After all, the group may consist of climbers to the preparation of various levels ..

Extreme sports in the mountains - it is a natural situation. Any bad weather, storm, already fraught with troubles. Security depends on the manager. Sometimes "gornyashka" (mountain sickness) is such that people have to bear. From lack of oxygen a person can be either a lack of energy, apathy or irritability.We had a case where people just sat down and decided not to go any further, I had to take his backpack and get to follow her footsteps. It is true, then he crossed himself and walked to the summit - 6100

And what more difficult to climb or descend?

Fifty-fifty, although some believe that to go down harder.

What's in your future plans?

Just a few days we will travel to Turkey on Ararat . This will be My sixth ascent of the famous mountain.

On this expedition Yoki.ru tell our readers a later date.

Vladimir Shataev:

Born May 1, 1937

Awarded:
The medal "For Labour Valour - 10/05/1972 city (№ 165197);
The Order of Honour - 01/09/1990 city (№ 1524514);
Medal "Veteran of Labour" - 5/22/1985 city;
Medal "For the glory of Ossetia" - June 1995;
Commander of the Order "Edelweiss", 1 st degree (№ 09);
Anniversary medal "Golden Jubilee of Mount Everest (Nepal).

Began athletics in 1955 - two-Union junior record in the relay 4 ? 800 meters.

Went to the mountains in 1959: the first peak in the Caucasus - Gumachi (3,805 m).
Graduated from high school instructor in 1961 at the climber camp "Dzhantugan"

Currently, public office: President, Union of mountaineers and rock climbers from Russia on Feb. 7, 2000, Executive Secretary of the Mountaineering Federation of Russia with 20 November 1993, Executive Secretary of the Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing on December 1, 1996. Member of the Board of the International Union of climbing Associations (UIAA) - 1997-2000.

On Saturday, a large delegation of 7 Summits Club visited Sablino village nearSt. Petersburg. There is the traditional place of training for ice-climbing techniques. Good pictures convey the seriousness and complexity of the training runs. In the pictures you can see Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Alexey Lonchinsky Paul Laktyushkin, Constantine Vasenko and others .... A traditional festival "Foot of Russia" was held in the suburbs ofMoscow, in Romashkovo. A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev won the race on snowshoes.

The President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov spent several days in the Elbrus region. It was a business trip. In the village of Terskol there is a branch of 7 Summits Club. Here we opened a rental of ski and mountaineering equipment, a service for tourists from Russia and around the world. It was necessary to solve a number of important organizational tasks and to get managerial report. However, when the weather is such wonderful, how can you sit in the office? Therefore, Alex and the Branch Director Anna Dymova took snowshoes and went into the woods. In support of them went dog of Anna. During the two hour walk, they made a couple of dozen good pictures. Snowshoeing is good, and skiing is good too. Slopes in the region are in excellent condition, great for skiing, snow is soft, there no crowd….

Elbrus is waiting for you. The route of ascent on Elbrus is still in the ice condition. But by April, the ice should be reduced. See our programs…

Alexander Abramov has recently returned fromAntarctica. So snow and ice was not scared him. And then there, and God himself commanded.

An old Russian tradition.

After Antarctica craving for cold Epiphany on a fine frosty day.

Alex Abramov and his son Maxim after bathing.

Let's count.

(1) Alexander Abramov with four comrades goes by ski to the South Pole - the program "Last Degree".

(2) According to the plan 10th of January, Vyacheslav Adrov and Vitali Simonovich  start for the program climbing the highest volcano in Antarctica Mount Sidley.

(3) Large group (12 people) began its long journey to the summit of Aconcagua. Guides our Club: Dmitry Ermakov and Denis Saveliev.

(4) Another large group (10 people, guide Artem Rostovtsev) began the program Climb of Kilimanjaro. They will also visit a safari and Zanzibar.

(5) Another large group (12 people + 1 guide) started with a program of  the climb of Kilimanjaro one day earlier, on January 2. This is - a joint project of the Donetsk Vertical-Tour and 7 Summits Club. Most of the participants are from teh city Donetsk, as well as guide Vyacheslav Vyblov.

Just a few small groups of Kilimanjaro travel by programs of basic services:

(6) - January 2, Machame route

(7) - January 3, Marangu route

(8) - from January 7 to Machame Route with Safari and Zanzibar.

For individual applications travel the following members of our Club.

(9) Jamil Manizada met the New Year at the top of the highest mount in Australia (island and contitnent)Mount Kosciuszko

(10) Mary Dyachenko celebrated the New Year in Mexico, climbing Orizaba.

(11) We have a group in Indonesia, on the islands and volcanoes.

(12) Tomorrow, January 6, the Group of 7 Summits Club arrives for trekking to Everest Base Camp.

(13) On January 3th  a group of our Club came in Morocco. The program includes: -climbing the highest peak in North Africa -MountToubkal and excursions to historical places.

(14) Finally, three days later, on January 9th, another group of 7 Summits Club will start to Chile. Program: Climbing the highest volcano of the World Ojos del Salado,  and after that  make Patagonia cruises and tour wineries in Chile.

Total - 14 teams for the New Year and the first half of January. Our personal best record.

It was not like a Congress, it was a real holiday.Holidayof meetings, celebration of gratitude. More than 60 climbers from 10 countries of the former Soviet Union gathered in the lecture hall of thePolytechnicMuseum. UIAA President Fritz Vrejlandt was a guest of honor of the event. All the climbers on Everest were awarded by Commemorative " Mount Everest Climber", specially made for this day. All members of the Congress and the spectators were unanimous gratitude to the organizers.

Fritz Vrejlandt

Mountaineering Federation of Russia and the 7 Summits Club were the organizers of this unforgettable event.

Veteran of mountaineering, Professor Ivan Bogachev spoke about the history of preparation of the first expedition to Everest in theSoviet Union. The decision was made in 1948. Legendary Eugene Abalakov was then the main initiator of the organization of the expedition. After his death, Kirill Kuzmin took the preparation for Everest for himself. In 1959, an expedition was completely ready, but her departure was canceled due to the uprising in Tibet.

Only in 1982, the dream was realized for our climbers. 11 climbers have reached the top of the World by a new, very difficult route. This achievement has had a huge impact on all of us.

Climbers of 1982

In 1990, the new Russian flag was first raised on Everest. President of the Russian mountaineering federation Andrey Volkov was then among climbers.

In 1996, a team fromKrasnoyarskopened a new route (couloir Zakharova) on the northeast side ofMount Everest. In 2004, the national team under the leadership of Viktor Kozlov made a new route on the center of the North Face of Everest.

In the new century, a new life has come to Everest. Alexander Abramov, became a main person inRussiaon Everest. Total Alex participated in 12 expeditions to Everest, 10 of them as a leader. Dozens of climbers thanked him for his help in the realization of their dream.

Alex (on the left) and apart of the 7 Summits Clib Everest summiters

Photos of Danila Kolodin

Summiters from Ukraine (from left): Victor Bobok (3 different routes), Sergey Kovalev,Sergey Bershov, Mstislav Gorbenko, Igor Svergun, Alexey Bokov

Ivan Dusharin (3 times) came direct from Mount Kosciuszko

 (project Alpari - 7 Summits for 300 days)

 Anatoly Ovchinnikov - 85 years

Kazbek Khamitsaev from North Osetia

Kazbek Valiev

Fritz Vrejlandt and Andrey Volkov

Sergey Bershov

Vladimir Shataev

Maxut Zhumaev and Visily Pevtsov

Alexey Ovchinnikov, Sergey Bershov and Anna Arinina (second Russian woman on Everest)

Victor Kozlov

Alltogher

Member of the 7 Summits Club, our good friend Andrey Podolyan climbed Mount Kosciuszko almost simultaneously with the team of "Alpari on top of the world." This was his crowning ascent program 7 Summits. 7 Summits Club congratulates Andrey and wishes new heights! Bravo!

Seven Summits of Andrey Podolyan:

Kilimanjaro, September 5, 2009

Aconcagua, February 11, 2010

Elbrus, August 1, 2010

Vinson, 23 December 2010

Everest, May 20, 2011

McKinley, July 5, 2012

Kosciuszko, 05 November 2012.

Everest 2011 www.vidgeversa.ru

And also:

Communism Peak, August 18, 2012

KorjenevskayaPeak, August 10, 2012

Andrey Podolyanu 40. He lives in Velsk,Arkhangels kregion. He was born and grew up in this area in the north of Russia. Andrey is one of the most successful businessmen in the area. He paid much attention to charity, built a church, built sport hill and did a lot of other good things. Andrey was a paratrooper in the Army, he is fond of hot-air balloons. Andrey now has the biggest balloon in Russia.

Employees trip of 7 Summits Club in Velsk, to visit Andrey Podolyanu. Photography.

https://7vershin.ru/news/all/item_2438/

Alex Abramov, Alexandr Ruchkin, Dmitry Ermakov, Dmitry Golovtchenko and others

As usual at the end of September, the 7 Summits Club celebrates the birthday of the company. On this occasion, we invite guests and cover the tables.

Alexander Abramov made a short report on the summer season. Lyudmila Korobeshko described the course of the program "Alpari on top of the world." The main guest of the evening, Alexander Ruchkin twice went to the scene to show the most exciting footage of his legendary climbs. Alexey Kabanov told about the ascent of theMatterhornwith Denis Savelyev and Roman Gretzky. Arthur Gladyshev with guitar suited song interludes. And of course, of particular interest to the audience called the first report of the climbing team ofMoscow. They climbed a new route on one and the most beautiful and remote mountains of the world -MuztaghTower.

Vladimir Shataev was presented to a guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Ermakov an icon Snow Leopard. And also gave a rare book, published minimum circulation – about the first oxygen-free ascent of Everest.

Traditional evening meetings of friends 7 Summits Club will be on 27th of September. It will be focused on the end of the summer season and our birthday. The legendary Russian climber Alexander Ruchkin will act as the chief guest. And for the first time, theMoscow team members will present a new route to the summit of Muztagh Tower. Guides of our Club spent the summer on the mountain routes of the world and they have stories to tell. We will also present our future plans.

As usual in September the 7 Summits Club celebrates another birthday. So we will lay the table and, as usual, you will be a raffle prizes and gifts.

September 27, next Thursday, at 20.00 in the store "Aktivny Otdykh" (Bask) at m.Prospekt World ul.B.Pereyaslavskaya, 7

Alexander Ruchkin

Muztagh Tower and the Moscow Team

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club, finished 25th in the competition Ultra-Tour du Mont Blanc. Start was August 31, finish - September 1. Artem was the first runner fromRussiawho took part in this prestigious competition. His time was 13 hours, 41 minutes.

Frenchman Francois d’Haene was the overall winner of the 103km race, with a time of 10 hrs 31mins 30 secs, 31 minutes ahead of Swede Jonas Buud, withUSathlete Michael Foote third with a time of 11 hrs 19 mins 0 secs.

Lizzy Hawker (GB) crossed the finishing line atChamonixin 12hrs 32mins 13secs to take the women’s title early this morning in the tenth running of the event.

She came in 16th overall in a race shortened and switched to a different course because of severe weather conditions. Lizzy Hawker finished 45 minutes ahead of second-place Francesca Canepa.

This year’s Ultra-Tour du Mont Blanc took place wholly inFrance.

Difficult weather conditions high on some of the Alpine passes forced organisers to alter the route to avoid some areas, meaning runners will not pass throughItalyandSwitzerlandas in previous years.

The course has been shortened as a result to 100km, and the new route will entail about 6,000m of ascent.

Organisers said conditions on the Col du Bonhomme, Col de la Seigne and Grand Col Ferret were too difficult to run the race over.

The concert began July 13 at 13 p.m. on the Rocks Pastukhova, at an altitude of 4800 meters or a little higher .. With great difficulty the parties have raised 60 kilograms of equipment, two snowcat brought up the audience, among whom were members of the group of 7 Summits Club. The concert was, as they say, "with a bang!" In an atmosphere of general euphoria. Weather contributed to the successful performances. One and a half hours bards sang it together, one by one. Eugene Kruten shot everything on camera, so we'll wait for the video. Arthur Gladyshev , the main engine of the event, sends gratitude to Alexander Abramov and all 7 Summits Club for the help.

The following year, the concert will take place at the top ofMount Elbrus.

 7 Summits Club became friends with a bard Arthur Gladyshev, who sang at our parties inMoscowandSt. Petersburg. We fully supported the idea of record-breaking concert at the mountain summit of Elbrus. At one time this idea was suggested by our other good friend Nick Seleznev. He died in an avalanche in April of this year. His blessed memory this show will be dedicated . 7 Summits Club will try to give organizers the best possible care.

 Festival "BARD-ROCK Elbrus" will be held from 10 to 16 July 2012 in the Elbrus region.

This year we plan a concert on teh "Pastukhov Rocks" (4800 meters above sea level). In 2013 - the concert will be held at the Saddle and on one of the peaks of Elbrus (5642 meters west, 5621 - East). It will be applied for in the "Guinness Book of Records" - the highest concert in the world.

May 17, 2012 Mikhail Turovsky climbed the summit of MountMcKinley . This was his final climb in the program 7 summits . Our congratulations to Michail, who was in our team last year, climbing Everest and Vinson. It should be noted that Michail climbed solo and in a rather difficult weather conditions. It was only the fifth ascent of the season on Mount McKinley.

Summit photo

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev took the high fifth place (80 participants) in the today competition Red Fox Elbrus Race - "Vertical Kilometer". In front of - only world leaders and two Russians. We consider this as a success. Come on, Artem, on! Good luck in the race to Elbrus.

Women.
1. Larissa Sobaleva (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky) 0:56:51
2. Jeanne Vokueva (St. Petersburg) 0:57:00
3. Aleksandra Dzik (Poland) 1:03:26
4. Elena Bolkhovitinov (Penza) 1:06:45
5. Nadezhda Korolyatina (Krasnoyarsk) 1:14:25

Men.

1. Marco De Gasperi (Italy) 0:44:39
2. Luis Alberto Hernando Alzaga (Spain) 0:45:47
3. Alexander Bolkhovitin (Penza) 0:51:25
4. Vitaly Shkel (Samara) 0:52:14
5. Artem Rostovtsev (Korolev) 0:54:51

 Winter season on Elbrus smoothly into spring and summer’s

Winter leaves Elbrus. No full satisfaction, but it was not disappointed. Sometimes it was not enough snow. Sometimes it was felt that not everyone decided to come. Again, the terrible tragedy of climbers on Elbrus ... But there was a lot of good. There are a lot changes for the better. And in the safety order, and in lifts. Our favorite hotel Povorot was worked almost "at five". And we look forward with optimism of the summer. However, it is spring. And we are waiting for the May holidays, waiting for the competition Elbrus Race of the Red Fox. It is always a big event. And this year it will record number of participents.

Latest news:
Completed a series of festivals in the Elbrus region. Management has prepared the region this year, a lot of pleasant surprises for the tourists. From 25 to 31 March it was held contest for ethnic artAltyn Square with the participation of teams fromRussia and CIS countries. On March 31 the baton took Elbrus Festival 2012, sponsored by the well-known musicians from Moscow and St. Petersburg: Michael Bashakov, Yuri Garin, Michael Kalinkin, Arthur Gladyshev, Dmitry Yurkov, the band "Kings of the Kitchen." Did the weather. Sunny days were followed by heavy snowfalls, so that skiers have an excellent opportunity for the free ride on the Cheget, and to be ridden on groomed slopes of Elbrus. And in the evening all gathered at the "Povorot."

----------

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12s/wfeature-elbrus

Elbrus
Casey O'Malley Posted on: April 6, 2012

[Photo] Mt. Elbrus courtesy of Mountain Madness/Savejko Photo.
It has been over one year since Mount Elbrus (5642m), Europe's member of the seven summits, was targeted in a terrorist attack. On February 18, 2011, two unidentified men stopped a van carrying five Moscow tourists to the Elbrus area—the men opened fire on the passengers after claiming to be plainclothes policemen. Three of the passengers died; two were hospitalized. Later that day, a bomb damaged a support tower for a cable car that travels up the side of Mount Elbrus. Thirty of the forty-five cars were damaged, but no people suffered injuries. The next morning, Russian officials diffused three improvised bombs containing 70kg of TNT, all found in a single car parked in the parking lot of a hotel at the base of the mountain.

The attacks happened just two weeks after Russian Federation President Dmitriy Medvedev unveiled a $15 billion plan to establish five ski resorts in the war-torn Caucasus Mountains, which guard the border between Russia and Georgia. Additionally, development for the 2014 Winter Olympics, slated to take place in Sochi, Russia, is in full swing less that 250km to the west.

In response to the February 2011 attacks, President Medvedev launched a fierce anti-terrorist campaign in the Caucasus. Military strikes canvassed the valleys. Regional governor Alexander Khloponin ordered a halt on tourist entry or exit to the area, claiming that the government needed to "clean up the territory" and only then "explain and show to everyone that it is safe in the Caucasus." A strong military presence covered the area and non-residents were not allowed to pass certain checkpoints. The Baksan Valley, which surrounds the southern aspect of Elbrus was closed off to all visitors.

The majority of Mount Elbrus's thousands of yearly visitors use local guides. The most popular southern route is often completed in as little as seven days, with chair lifts and snow cats carrying climbers sometimes as high as 4600m, depending on snow conditions. There are three successive chairlifts that constitute the beginning of this route: it was the second of the three, between stations Stary Krugozor and Mir, that was bombed. This moderate and popular route—the bread and butter of local companies' Elbrus tours—was unreachable all of 2011 because of the Baksan Valley closure.

In a typical seasons, routes from the north and west are far less travelled. These routes are more challenging and take more time to complete. They lack the permanent facilities, like the barrel huts and the "world's nastiest outhouse" (so dubbed by Outside magazine in 1993), that are encountered along the southern route.

The southern route remained closed for the entire 2011 season, leaving climbers to try the more technically demanding and less frequented northern and western routes. Military checkpoints sprouted along access roads to base camp on the northern side of Elbrus, enforcing inconsistent access rules. "Checkpoints on the north side were pretty much for show," writes Gleb Myasnikov, a guide who lives in the area. "One could go around the closed area on basic roads and it was not even a violation." Some companies directed their groups on a 90km detour around checkpoints. Sometimes with a cash payment officers would allow groups to pass by the checkpoints.

By August 2011, the northern route was officially opened and military checkpoints disbanded. The southern route was declared open on October 28, 2011. Though federal and local government promises no more lengthy access closures, many companies advise flexibility in route choice since the situation may change unpredictably. "This is the Caucasus, something is always happening," writes Myasnikov, whose company has not planned any short seven-day trips for the 2012 season. Instead they have opted for longer trips which give groups the flexibility to choose either the south or north route depending on access conditions.

The social climate of the Caucasus was rocked politically and economically by these measures. "The area is still dangerous may be even more than before...due to the year-long economic blockade, the local people became more desperate and chance of being robbed or killed for the reason of robbery is very obvious," writes Alex Trubachev, a guide based in Moscow whose company has halted their Elbrus tours. "Locals have lost everything—two seasons of nothing," agrees Myasnikov.

The region is not a stranger to conflict. Ethnic, religious and political tension dominate the history of the Causcasus; six separate wars have plagued the area since 1988. Elbrus itself has been a platform for political messages many times before.

In 1929 the burgeoning Soviet government founded an official mountaineering section of their tourism bureau, and Elbrus became the star of their programs. Over the next decades, the government sponsored mountaineering camps (alp'lageri) and training programs in all of the Soviet Union's mountain ranges to give citizens access to the mountains and training to reach their summits. The Elbrus region hosted the first alp'lageri, built in 1929, and many Soviet citizens visited each year to begin their training as climbers. With its moderate, non-technical climbs to the summit, it was reasonable for beginners to reach the summit after a brief training period—and its summit was the tallest on the continent. With every successful climb of Elbrus, Soviet citizens were standing on the top the Europe, and it was the Soviet government that made their ascents possible. The government portrayed each successful climb as a testament to the opportunities and enrichment that were offered to its citizens.

What is seen as contemporary Russian mountaineering style—large groups and siege-style climbing—is rooted in the curriculum of these structured Soviet mountaineering camps. The Soviet program focused on getting as many people involved in the sport as possible to manifest the government's Communist ideals. This meant that not only did many people visit the mountaineering camps each summer, but many people would participate in group climbs as well. For example, a 1935 climb of Elbrus saw 638 farmers reach the summit of Elbrus in a literal display of the heights that the lowly proletariat could reach with the support of their new government.

Massive group climbs became the staple on Elbrus, with a record being set in 1960 when an enormous party of 1,395 people ascended the mountain in honor of Vladimir Lenin's 90th birthday. The party placed a bust of Lenin on the summit (now only a concrete base remains).

During World War II, Elbrus invited international political statements. The German Gebirgsjaeger Unit, an elite mountaineering military division, left a Nazi flag on the summit in the summer of 1942. No battles occurred on the slopes of the mountain, and anecdotes report that Hitler was furious with the unit for wasting their time on such a stunt. But the lure of a flag on the highest mountain in Europe was unavoidable. After German forces left the area in January 1943, the Soviet army's first action in the Caucasus was to send a military group to the summit of the mountain to replace the swastika flag with the Soviet Union's hammer-and-sickle banner.

But these historical demonstrations on Elbrus were not violent. And that's what changed in the February 2011 attacks on Elbrus. "2011 was the first time that tourists and climbers became victims," writes Myasnikov. "Understand—Elbrus is a ski resort, not a war zone...but there are rebels in the Caucasus and to them, this is just their business. Nothing personal. And that may never change."

We can say about a great success, even about a record that was set yesterday at a traditional evening of 7 Summits Club. Only registered users we had 70 persons. But there were those who came later, were not calculated. So the total number of visitors at the event was about 200! Fedor Konyukhov plans were amazing. Until 2020, all is planed like this: "I come from a six-month campaign from the Arctic, and I am already waiting with a boat to cross Atlantic. I come from three month hike on camels, and I am already waiting for a solo submarine to reach America from Black Sea. "Great !”

All performances of our guides were extremely successful. It seems that most of the visitors appreciated it. Many did not want to go home, even after midnight. Well, we will wait for a new meeting. Hopefully, we can organize it in early summer, after returning from Everest.

The picture of Fedor Konyukhov was sold for 90,000 rubles (3000 dollars)

Dmitry Yermakov Antarctica 2011-12

Ludmila Korobeshko - Two summits from the program "Alpari - 7 summits for 300 days"

Climb with us

Traditional meeting of friends of 7 Summits Club will be held March 15 at 20:00. The place is the same: store "Activny Otdykh" on the Great Pereiaslav Street, Building 7. We will tell you about our achievements over the past few months. Let's try to highlight the most interesting and significant record of our many trips. We also formally introduce our expedition to Everest and wish the participants good luck.

But the main event will be the performance on the evening of the great Russian traveler Fyodor Konyukhov, who takes part of our expedition to the highest peak in the world.

Two stages of Courses of Russian Mountain Guides School in Austria ended safely. Permanent snowfalls and wind made it difficult to substantially the practical part of training. But the program has been implemented. As a result of the School for all candidates will be receiving a certificate from the Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) on successful completion of the module on avalanche safety (Level 1). Cadets on the final day went to the lab company's GORE-TEX ®, which has kindly provided the opportunity to see with own eyes to the opportunities and technology, "breathable" fabrics. Oksana Chekulaeva, program manager for Free-ride School on the 7 Summits Club was one of the students. We offer some of her photos.