Luda Korobeshko - Page 2

The leader of the Denali expedition, group guide Lyudmila Korobeshko sends from Alaska:

 July 2. Greetings to everyone from Alaska from the "Orange Men" group from the Ranger camp at an altitude of 4300m! That's all. Yesterday we made the final decision - today we are descending. Unfortunately, without the summit. The route above 5200 is very dangerous for avalanches. For about two weeks, no one has climbed to the summit. And there is no chance that the route will improve. According to the forecast, strong winds will arrive by evening. So we will try to descend as soon as possible. We are one of the last ones on the Mountain now. There are only 1-2 groups nearby. They are also planning to descend.

It is very sad to leave without the summit...

Two guys in our team planned to close the "7 Summits" project with this Mountain. The rest had one more mountain to climb besides Denali before the project was completed...

The leader of the Denali expedition, the guide Lyudmila Korobeshko sends from Alaska:

 June 30. Greetings from Alaska to everyone from the "Orange Men" group! From the Ranger Camp at an altitude of 4300m. We have been here for two days already. We came here the day before yesterday. Yesterday we went to get supplies. Today we are resting and practicing technical skills.

 The situation on the Mountain is difficult - no one has climbed to the summit for almost two weeks. After the last snowfall, the slopes above 5300 on the "autobahn" have become very avalanche-prone. Over the past three days, about ten groups have turned around and gone down without the summit. We are still waiting and hoping. But even today our first group turned around on this section. Today Abramov's group will descend to us. We will decide what to do next.

The leader of the expedition to Denali, the guide Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Alaska:

 June 28. Greetings to everyone from Alaska from the "Orange Men" group! Today we finally broke free from the snow captivity and moved to the Ranger Camp at an altitude of 4300m. The climb was not easy for us - very heavy backpacks and deep snow. But the main thing is that we reached it!!! We set up camp here. We are resting. Tomorrow we will go for supplies.

The leader of the Denali expedition, super-guide Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Alaska:

June 26. Greetings from Alaska from the "Orange Men" group! From Camp Eleven at 3400m.

Yes, we are still here. Yesterday it started snowing at lunchtime, by evening it had accumulated about 20 cm. At night the snowfall intensified. We had to leave our tents every two hours and dig ourselves out. The neighboring expedition slept all night, and in the morning their tent poles broke under the weight of the snow. Now it is almost evening. The snowfall does not stop. We dig ourselves out every hour. We are sitting in camp, waiting for the weather to improve.

The leader of the expedition to Denali, the guide Lyudmila Korobeshko sends from Alaska:

 June 25. Greetings to everyone from Alaska from the "Orange Men" group. From the Camp Eleven at 3400 m.

 Yesterday we picked up our supplies from below. And today we made a new supply under the Ranger Camp. We switched to a new way of moving - without sleds and snowshoes. Now we walk in crampons and carry all the loads in backpacks. And we also walk with ice axes - we have become real mountaineers! If the weather permits, then tomorrow we will move to the Ranger Camp at 4400.

June 23. Greetings from Alaska to everyone from the "Orange Men" group! Today we climbed to Camp 3 or Camp Eleven, at an altitude of 3400. We woke up to the sounds of snowfall. We hoped that it would stop, but on the contrary, it only got stronger. As a result, we walked under snowfall for all 6 hours. At Eleven, we met our Group #1 with Alex Abramov. They are cheerful and happy. Today, the guys did not go up because of the snowfall. They decided to rest. They helped us a lot with setting up camp in difficult winter conditions.

Tomorrow, the first group will go up to the Rangers Camp. And we have a descent for supplies and a day of rest at Eleven Camp.

Denali expedition leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

The 7 Summits Club guide Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Alaska:

June 22. Alaska Group #2 is in touch. We are still spending the night at Camp 1 at 2500m. Yesterday we went out to make a drop-off. But we had to turn around, because it suddenly turned out that one of the participants urgently needed to return home for personal reasons. But you can't walk alone or even in pairs on the Kahiltna glacier (according to the rules of the local rangers), so we all turned around - we are the team! We returned to the camp and tried to have as much fun as possible. At night, Sergey went down with another team, and we reached the drop-off point early this morning. And we made it to 3000. We were a bit battered by the wind and cold, but now we are already in the camp. Let's sunbathe and relax.

June 20. Alaska. 7 Summits Club group on Denali #2 is in touch. Yesterday we arrived in Talkeetna. On the way we were thinking up a name for the group. There are several options. We are still deciding. At 13:00 we were briefed by rangers and then flew to the Kahiltna Glacier. After landing, we slept a little and at 4:00 a.m. we moved on to Camp 1. By 10 a.m. we arrived at Camp 1 at an altitude of 2500. Along the way, we lost toilet tanks a couple of times. We set up camp, rested and sunbathed (very active sun). The views are beautiful, avalanches constantly come down from neighboring slopes - everything we like.

Head of the Denali expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

June 19. Alaska in touch. Yesterday, June 18, we had a busy day in Anchorage. In the morning, having fortified ourselves with crabs, we checked our gear. Then we went shopping. And in the evening, we won a decisive victory - we got hold of Zhamilya's missing luggage.

Today we are moving to Talkeetna, going to the rangers and after that we will try to fly to the glacier. We have not yet come up with a name for our international group (Russia, Switzerland, Kazakhstan, Romania). But we are working on it.

Leader of the Denali expedition of group #2 of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko.

June 17. Greetings from Alaska to everyone from the second team of the 7 Summits Club on Denali! Today all the participants of the upcoming expedition arrived in Anchorage. We managed to walk along the lake with seaplanes, where our hotel is located, found "fun" shops with what is legal in Alaska and tasted the meat of local crabs. We also visited the Chilkoot Charlie night club, where an exhibition about Russia over the past 150 years is presented.

Tomorrow we have a check of equipment and purchases. The day after tomorrow, according to the plan, we move to Talkeetna and fly out to the glacier.

The leader of the expedition to Denali Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 12 Dhaulagiri

Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Report for the past period.

 May 7 - moved from BC to C1. A little faster than last time - in just 9 hours. The icefall melted, the cracks became wider.

 May 8 - moved from C1 to C2. By evening we learned that the advance group had been walking from C2 to C3 for as long as 12-14 hours... This made us a little... wary. We felt that our plans could change. However, we were told by radio that the plans were in effect and the advance group (the hanging team and the combined group) was ready to go on the assault in a few hours. Around midnight we were woken up and told that plans had changed and the upper group had decided to spend an extra day in the upper camp.

 May 9 - woke up late. Anyway, it was a forced rest day at 6200... Celebrated Victory Day and Igor Smirnov's birthday. Walked up a bit.

 May 10 - early rise and exit at 5 am to C3. The crossing turned out to be really tough - a snow-ice slope with falling snow. By the end - 35-40 degrees. There was nowhere to rest at all. We got there quickly - in about 10 hours. But we were exhausted. The camp is not conducive to rest and recovery at all - a tiny area at an angle of 25-30 degrees. The tents are crooked, it is impossible to walk between them without crampons and self-belay. There are 3-5 people in each tent. Boiling water is a huge problem. By this time, the ropers and climbers from the international team had just started to return from the summit (their journey to the summit took 15-20 hours).

In the end, we decided to leave after 9 p.m. We slept for 2-3 hours (whoever could). And by 10 p.m. we somehow got out of the tents. And immediately a steep snow-ice slope. We passed it in an hour and a half. Then the ridge. And then - an oblique traverse. All the ropes are under snow. Everything needs to be re-tracked and the ropes dug out. Snow above the knee. We walked very slowly. And then the wind picked up. We all hoped that it would die down. But it only got stronger. It was very cold. After 2 hours of fighting the wind and snow, the Sherpas said that it was dangerous to go further in such a wind. And we ourselves realized this. So we decided to turn around.

There were many adventures on the descent, including an avalanche, which miraculously only touched us with the edge. By the evening of the same day we were already at the Base Camp.

May 11 - today. We are already on our way to Kathmandu. We are resting and exchanging impressions in Pokhara. We decided that even if we go to another mountain, we will keep the previous name - "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club".

The leader of the Dhaulagiri expedition, Lyudmila Korobeshko, sends from Nepal:
Hello everyone from Dhaulagiri! The plans have changed. At night, a message came that the advance group was unable to leave C3 for the ascent. They were too tired during the climb from C2 to C3. They climbed for 9-13 hours and the last ones arrived only at 19:00. There is little space for tents. 4-5 people sleep in a tent.
Well, that means we will spend two nights at C2. Our assault is postponed to May 11.
This morning, we congratulated Igor Smirnov on his birthday and each other on Victory Day!

Today, our group passed a not very difficult section from Camp 1 (5800) to Camp 2 (6200). Progress was hampered by a large amount of snow. The advance group of Sherpas and an international company climbed to Camp 3, also known as the assault camp. Again, due to the large amount of snow, it was not quick. They spent about 9-10 hours. How will this affect their attempt at the ascent tomorrow? Four Sherpas led by Makalu Lakpa will be the first to set out tonight. Let's wish them good luck!

The 8000 Club team, led by Lyudmila Korobeshko, successfully climbed to Camp 1 (5800m) on the slopes of Dhaulagiri. As planned. The Sherpa group that is supposed to finish the route is in Camp 2 (6200 m) together with the international team of climbers. Tomorrow, according to the plan, four Nepalese led by Makalu Lakpa will climb to Camp 3 and go to finish the route at night. So far, the rope has only been fixed to 8000 meters. The summit for the international group is scheduled for May 9. For ours - for May 10. The main thing is that the weather does not interfere with the implementation of these plans.

May 6, Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Today we had a day of preparation for the assault exit. Tomorrow, May 7, we leave Dhaulagiri Base Camp for C1. Then according to the plan: May 8 - transition to C2. May 9 - transition to C3. May 10 – Summit Assault and descent to C2. May 11 - return to BC.

The international team has already left today. They will go a day ahead of us.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 5, Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! We are still at Dhaulagiri Base Camp. The exit is slightly postponed due to weather conditions.

We started the morning, as always, with exercise. Today, the legendary Pakistani climber Sajit Sadpara, son of Ali Sadpara, joined us. He is doing the 14x8000 project without O2.

After breakfast, we held oxygen classes and distributed the Sherpas. The exit is scheduled for May 7. And the assault on the summit, accordingly, is on May 10. So tomorrow is another day of rest and preparation.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 3, Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club! We are resting again. And it looks like for a long time. Forecasts show snowfalls in the coming days… To raise morale, we decided to organize a flash mob demonstrating our expedition gear.

In the evening, we held a teleconference with Yura Lukyanov (he is already in the hotel in Kathmandu, he was discharged from the hospital). Our immediate plans are to stay at the Base Camp on May 4 and 5. Possibly, we will leave on May 6 if the weather improves.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Photos from the Sherpa team. Photographed in the area of Camp 3.

May 2 Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Today we had a rest day in the Dhaulagiri Base Camp. We had a bath day, washed and did laundry. And the female part of the expedition also organized spa treatments, with masks and creams.

By lunchtime, a helicopter arrived with a new member of the international expedition. He brought us a parcel from Yury Lukyanov with kazy, red caviar, chocolate and other goodies.

That night, from May 1 to 2, the team of rope-riggers attempted to storm the summit. They reached 8000 (lost time by climbing false couloirs several times) and after almost 20 hours of storming, they turned around.

In the evening, we checked the forecasts - unfortunately, there will be snowfalls in the coming days. So we will sit in the BC and wait for the weather to improve.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 1st to Dhaulagiri. Happy holiday to everyone and namaste from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group! Today we returned to the Base Camp after two high-altitude overnight stays. Unfortunately, one of the participants - Yura Lukyanov - was forced to end the expedition due to health reasons. Now he is in the hospital in Kathmandu, recovering.

On the first day we reached Camp 1 (5700m) in 10 hours, gaining more than 1000 m vertically. It was a tough climb - many steep ropes on rocks and ice, cracks...The next day we moved to Camp 2 (6200m). This climb was much easier - only 500 m of difference and easy snow terrain.

This morning we celebrated May 1st with a friendly line in Camp 2 and cheerfully ran down. True, we almost got lost in the fog, which began just when we were approaching the icefall. But everything worked out, we found the way. Everyone went down to the camp alive and well.

Now we are resting.

We are planning an assault exit no earlier than May 4-5. Now the ropes are fixed to Camp 3. But tomorrow the first attempt to storm the summit by the team of Sherpas fixing the route and two members of the international team (a Pakistani and a Taiwanese are spending the night today in Camp 3 without oxygen) is possible.

Head of the expedition to Dhaulagiri Lyudmila Korobeshko.

According to reports from Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club"! On April 29, the weather improved a little, and we went on the first acclimatization rotation. at 5.20 from the camp. One of our participants felt unwell and with the help of the Sherpas returned to the base camp. The rest continued their journey and reached Camp 1 in 10.5 hours.

On April 30, the group successfully ascended from Camp 1 to Camp 2. All the participants who ascended feel well. The weather is also good. We spend the night here today - at an altitude of 6200. Tomorrow we descend to Base Camp.

** The leader of the Lakpa Makalu Sherpa team reports that he hopes to reach the summit by May 1 and fix the ropes on most of the route.

The list of the route preparers: Taraman Tamang, Pem Dorchi Sherpa, Phurba Kusang Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Chhumbi Sherpa, leader of Lakpa (Makalu) Sherpa.