Korobeshko Luda

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 14-18. July 14-18. The days of rest in the BC Broad Peak quickly passed after our acclimatization rotation. At first, the weather was just disgusting - snow, rain, fog. Yesterday (July 17) the weather improved and many climbers went to the upper camps with the hope of an assault in the coming days.
During the rest, we managed to walk under Pastor Peak in the side gorge, visited BC of K2 a couple of times, met Kotlyar, Nims, Garrett Madison. Israfil and Saulius with the Polish guys went to C2 Broad Peak last night. Today they have to reach C3 and tonight (Monday to Tuesday) - to storm the summit. We are leaving the base tonight, tomorrow July 19 - C2, the day after tomorrow July 20 - C3, July 21 - according to our plan, we are going to storm Broad Peak.

I walked today to BC of K2. It's about an hour up the glacier from our BC Broad Peak. Firstly, the views are amazing. Just as I was approaching the camp, the clouds began to disperse and Chogori appeared in all its glory. Secondly, the K2 camp site itself is very beautiful, there are a lot of Nepalese companies and as a result - a lot of stupas with flags (it can be seen that pujas were held). And thirdly, while I was wandering around the camps, Nims noticed me and invited me to visit. The elitexped camp is really the best here - a whole cozy town of large sleeping tents, several common tents, kitchens, flags and logos of Nims and his company everywhere. Even cups in the dining room with personalized logos.

Like in our camp, everyone is waiting for the weather. In a couple of days, according to the forecast, there will be an improvement. July 19-20-21 are the approximate summit days for K2 and Broad Peak.

Now Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko are on acclimatization rotation on the slopes of Broad Peak.  We bring to your attention photos from trekking to the base camp.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Greetings from Pakistan from Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko! Have you lost us? We were out of touch for 4 days. The satellite failed. And the local connection appeared only on July 7, in Concordia. So, from July 4 to July 7, we moved from Ascole (a village at 3050) to Concordia (a camp at 4500 with a view of K2 and other eight-thousandths). On the way we spent the night in the camps of Jola, Payu, Urdukas. The last two crossings were the longest - 9-10 hours on the Baltoro glacier. But the beauty is indescribable! Tomorrow we plan to make a short trip to the base camp of Broad Peak. Then - rest and acclimatisation rotation on Broad Peak.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Exploration expedition on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Day 3. The third of July. Hurray! The documents are finally ready. In the morning we left Shigar in the direction of Ascole. On the way, we slowed down in almost every village - our driver greeted his friends and proudly showed that he was carrying foreign tourists. Two hours later we stopped to buy chickens. For the first time we saw how live chickens are put on the scales and discuss weight and prices for a long time, and chickens calmly flaunt on the scales. Around lunch, we had a snack with traditional food of the Baltu peoples - rice, lentils, vegetables and meat - essentially the same Nepalese dalbat. In general, the Baltu, Sherpa and Tibetan peoples are very close, languages and traditions are similar.
About two o'clock we stopped, before reaching Ascole a couple of kilometers - the road was washed out here. We had to move things to other Jeeps. We walked a little bit to Ascole - the views are gorgeous! The village is very picturesque, with sharp snow peaks all around.
This is the last major settlement on our way. There will probably be no further communication until the very BC - day 4-5. See you soon! Don't lose us!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan.  Day 1. The first of July. At 4 a.m. we landed in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan, where we were warmly welcomed by one of the brothers Saed - Anwar. A few cups of Pakistani tea (mixed tea with milk and cardamom), a few photos for memory, and we are already flying further to Skardu (2450), a town in Baltistan, from where expeditions to the Karakoram mountains begin.

It's also hot here - about +25-30 (well, at least not +45, as in Islamabad). The road from the airport is blocked by strikers, we are going to detour. Half an hour later we arrive at the Summit Hotel in Skardu, give the documents to the military to obtain permits and fall asleep.

We wake up around 15.00, have a snack with mixed fried rice, which we have loved since Tibet, and go to buy gas and other small things. However, Friday evening is a Muslim day off - many shops close early. Therefore, we just decide to relax and go to the barber shop to clean up. Sasha shaves, I take pictures, five more locals just sit next to each other and talk to the hairdresser and us. The owner of our hotel brought us to the barbershop. On the way, he told me that three years ago in the winter, a Russian expedition to K2 stopped with him (apparently, it was with Artem Brown).

A short walk before going to bed - through the noisy streets of Skardu, very close to the noise of the Indus water ... Tomorrow, if the documents from the military are ready, we will go to Ascole. Or we'll wait here for another day.

P.S. We met Nims on the way to Pakistan. First on the poster, and then in person.  We agreed to meet again in a week under K2 and Broad Peak.

Hurray! There is the summit of Giluwe and the first swallow that flew to Papua New Guinea! After 2 years of pandemic, Papua New Guinea finally opened to tourists in February 2022. And the first participant in the program of our climbing project with local guides  this weekend successfully climbed on the top of the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania - Giluve (4368 m). This mountain is part of the "7 Volcanoes" project. Congratulations to Adrian on the summit! And we invite new people to make this unusual journey to another world.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide, from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico from Lyudmila Korobeshko and the Nahui group. Today we saw amazing Mexico - we visited the main Catholic shrine of all Latin America - the Church of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The place is stunning in beauty and energy. And also visited the most famous pyramids of Mexico - Teotihuacan - pyramids of the Moon and Sun. Although this ancient city has been excavated by only 15%, the scale is amazing. From our guide to the historical places of Mexico - Natalia Pushkareva - we learned a lot of interesting things from the culture and history of Mexico. In the evening, we walked on our own through the dark streets of the center of Mexico City and - voila - we are alive, healthy and satisfied! Tomorrow we are going to the monarchs. What are the assumptions, what is it?

Lyudmila Korobeshko, director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide, from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico from Lyudmila Korobeshko and the Nahui group! Yesterday we spent a hard night at the Orizaba Base Camp - a storm raged all night, the wind shook our tents. In the morning everything was covered with snow. And the snow continued to fall. A little sad, after lunch we went to the assault camp at 4700. The weather has not improved. The strong wind and snow continued. But the forecast promised a weakening of the wind and the end of precipitation after midnight. At one o'clock we woke up to the sounds of heavy snowfall.  We were sad, but we decided not to change our plans. At 2 am we went out to climb.  By 4 a.m., the snowfall had stopped. But not the wind. And the cold was terrible. Nevertheless, at 8 a.m. our team reached the top of the highest volcano in North America.

By lunchtime we were already in Zoapan, and now we are heading to Mexico City to continue the cultural program. Pyramids and butterflies are waiting for us.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide, from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico from Lyudmila Korobeshko and the group "Nahui"! After spending a stormy night in the wonderful Mexican town of Puebla, at 6 am we drove to the foot of La Malinche. By 13.00 we were already standing on the top of the volcano La Malinche (4440m). In the evening we went down and moved to the cozy hacienda of Soltepec next to the best pulqueria in the area (here they prepare pulque - braga from agave). Tomorrow we will move to Piedra Grande - the base camp on Orizaba.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide, from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico from Lyudmila Korobeshko and the team that changed its name! Yesterday we were called "Tacos", but today we were given a sign - in Cholula, an ice cream lady with this name (Tacos) crossed the road and stopped us. We had no choice but to accept the sign from above. And now we are a Nahui group. Today our group made the first ascent in Mexico to the lowest volcano in the world. This is the Koshkamate volcano with a height of 13 meters. We also visited the largest pyramid in the world - Cholula. Tomorrow we are going to climb on La Malinche (4200).

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and group guide, from Mexico:

Greetings from Mexico, from Lyudmila Korobeshko and a new group on Orizaba called "Tacos" (former "Cacas" on Kilimanjaro)! This morning, finally, the whole group came to Mexico City and we immediately went to explore this 36-million city.

In half a day we managed to explore the historical center of Mexico City, visit several churches, visit the largest cathedral in Latin America, found the house of Count Orizaba, visited the sculpture museum of the richest Mexican Carlos Slim, listened to the history of the conquest of Mexico by Cortez, refreshed the details of the struggle for independence, remembered the Mexican revolution, which almost coincided with ours. With some surprise, we recalled that about half of the current territory of the United States once belonged to Mexico. We listened to stories about the blood sacrifices of the Aztecs, learned the recipe for soup made from human flesh (yes, the Aztecs were also cannibals, like our good friends the Papuans).

At sunset, we went boating on the Xochimilco canals to the Mariachi songs.

Tomorrow we leave Mexico City and head to the largest pyramid in the world! Can you guess what it's called?

P.S. Many thanks to our wonderful guide to Mexico City - Natalia Pushkareva!

Alexander Brychkin, participant of the Vinson Massif ascent: The impossible is possible! At the edge of the earth, on the base of Union Glacier Antartica, I met our author - a great mountaineer and a wonderful person, Nirmal Purja, or simply Nims. He led a group with an Arab princess on the Vinson Massif and the South Pole.  We were also at the summit, but we missed each other by just a few days. It was easier for us because we had better weather.

Nims climbed all 14 eight-thousandths in 6 months, which was previously considered categorically impossible.

  From the notes of one of the participants of the Antarctic program of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Brychkin.  Alexander is one of the leading publishers and distributors of books in Russia.  It was only thanks to him that the translation of the book of Nims came out very quickly in our country.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, from Punta Arenas (Chile):

Hello everyone from Antarctica! Yesterday (or rather today) our friendly group  finally escaped from the snow captivity of Antarctica! On the way to the breakthrough - on the Union - we met Nims (he climbed Vinson with our previous group, then went to the South Pole and also got into Antarctic captivity). We had a little photo shoot with him. And after midnight we arrived on the Mainland, in Punta Arenas.  There, the guides awarded all the participants of our group with certificates for climbing and large commemorative medals. Now we already miss Antarctica and our friends  Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexandr Dorojukov, who stayed there to work with the next group.

A message from Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, from Antarctica:

In short, everything is fine.  Yesterday we successfully climbed to the top of the Vinson Massif. And today we went down to the base camp. Everything is fine. We are sitting, waiting for the weather, when we will be taken to the Union Glacier. We are resting. Now we will only have rest days. 

The expedition is almost completed, its main part has already been completed: everyone has climbed the summit. Now we are just resting at the base camp, celebrating a successful ascent.

Happy New Year to everyone!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, director of the company: Hello everyone from Antarctica! Now we are in the High Camp. Just recently, the last participants came here. We went up in three groups. Someone faster, someone slower. The fastest – in 6 hours, the slowest - in 10 hours. The group, of course, is large and the forces are very unequal. Nevertheless, tomorrow, January 3rd, we want to storm the whole team and hope for a successful ascent. Moreover, the weather is still good. We are a little worried, because not everyone was given last trek easily. Nevertheless, we are planning an assault by the whole team tomorrow. Wish us good luck!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, guide of the 7 Peaks Club, director of the company, from Antarctica: Hello everyone from Antarctica! Lyudmila Korobeshko speaks. Now we are, as yesterday, in the Low Camp. Today we had a rest day. We had a good rest, ate, and had training sessions. And now we go to bed early. We want to move to High Camp tomorrow. And the day after tomorrow we plan to storm the summit. It will be on January 3rd. So far, the weather forecast is good. We hope in this good forecast and go to the top. Everyone feels well, they send greetings to their relatives and friends! The super-guides of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko, Alexander Dorojukov and Vladimir Kotlyar were in touch.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, director of the company, from Antarctica:

Hello everyone from Antarctica! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko from Low Camp. First of all, happy New Year 2022! Today, our friendly team of 15 people made a heroic transition from Base Camp to Low Camp, to a height of almost 2000 meters. In general, it was not easy, because we had to carry a lot of cargo. In general, the march took about eight hours. And we celebrated the New Year in Russia somewhere along the way.  But the Chilean New Year has already been celebrated directly at the camp, where a good party was held. We joined up with groups of other expeditions that came here, some yesterday, some today. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we have a rest day. Our guides, Sasha Dorojukov and Volodya Kotlyar plan to bring all our necessary equipment to the High Camp. And if all this works out, then the day after tomorrow, on January 2, we want to move completely to the High Camp and try the next day, on the 3rd, to storm the summit.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, director of the company, from Antarctica: Good afternoon! Hello everyone from Antarctica! Our group "Vinson-4" or  "7 Nations Army", a very multinational team, flew to Antarctica and immediately we were transferred to the base camp at 2200. Here we have set up our camp, now we are sorting things out, had dinner.   It's almost twelve o'clock at night, and in general, we'll be going to bed slowly. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will make a depot. And, probably, the day after tomorrow we will move to the Low Camp. All participants feel well. However, part of our expedition in the form of three Nepalese Sherpas has not joined us yet, because they are still going Last Degree. Otherwise, everything is fine. The super-guides of the 7 Summits Club Volodya Kotlyar, who cut himself yesterday (we didn't recognize him directly), Alexander Dorojukov and Lyudmila Korobeshko are in touch. Everyone, Happy New Year!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, director of the company, from Punta Arenas (Chile):

Greetings to all from the edge of the world from Punta Arenas! We decided to call ourselves "7 nations army" - we counted representatives of so many countries in our group. Although Sherpas will still join us in Antarctica… Today we have finally gathered in full force. We bought everything we needed. Three times we got caught in the rain, two times we were almost blown away by a hurricane and miraculously did not get burned – that is, we learned all the charms of the changeable weather of Punta Arenas. 

We're putting all our stuff on the plane tomorrow. And the day after tomorrow we hope to fly to Antarctica, where Volodya Kotlyar should be waiting for us. He came to the South Pole with a group today.

Happy New Year to everyone!

The guides of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorozhukov and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Ludmila Korobeshko, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, director of the company, from Punta Arenas (Chile):

Greetings to all from the edge of the world, from Punta Arenas! Our group on Vinson (the 4th in a row in the Antarctic season) almost got together. Two more participants are due to arrive tonight. Yesterday we crossed paths with a group of Vinson-2 (PingVinson), who, due to the delay, flew out of Antarctica only the day before yesterday. We had a friendly dinner at the guide house, which we rented for the season in Punta Arenas. Lena Abramova has prepared a magical dinner for us! This was more than welcome, as all restaurants were closed due to the holidays. We listened to the stories of the members “PingVinson” about the horrors that befell them - low temperatures up to -50, winds and bad weather ... Decided to dress warmly and take more warming drinks.

Today we have already passed the first Antarctic antigen tests - everyone is healthy and cheerful. Tomorrow there will be a check of equipment, additional purchase of the necessary. The day after tomorrow we check in our luggage and hope to fly to Antarctica on December 29.