Activities of the 7 Summits Club in Crimea. Cleaning of mountains from garbage in the ranks of volunteers of the Yalta reserve. PHOTOS

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club: We are in the Crimea. We not only climb rocks and walk on mountains. We also became volunteers of the Yalta nature reserve. We were cleaning up garbage around the Nikita Rocks. It was ... read more

 

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

We are in the Crimea. We not only climb rocks and walk on mountains. We also became volunteers of the Yalta nature reserve. We were cleaning up garbage around the Nikita Rocks. It was fun! We collected 13 bags of garbage!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nirmal Purja a guide of the 7 Summits Club! We invite you to visit Antarctica with him on the programs of climbing Mount Vinson and skiing the South Pole!

The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with ... read more

The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with him on mutually beneficial cooperation. We present to You the first joint project:

The program of ascent on the highest peak of Antarctica, Mount Vinson, and a ski trip to the South Pole. 

 

Nims is a cheerful and sociable guy, with a lot of life experience, physically and mentally surprisingly resistant person. Traveling with him will be something special that you can remember and tell all your life.

 

 

Nirmal "Nims" Purja (born 25.07.1983, Myagdi, Nepal) is a Nepalese mountaineer, former Gurkha, soldier of the Special boat service (SBS), an elite special forces unit of the Royal Navy of the United Kingdom. It climbed all fourteen eight-thousandths in a record time of 6 months 6 days in 2019. Awarded the British order of knighthood - The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.

 

Nims in Moscow

 

 

Rock multi-pitch routes of the 7 Summits Club guides in Crimea

Over the past few years, the Crimean guides of the 7 Summits Club have made several original routes intended for members of our training programs. . As a result, we can note that Alexander Marinkevich and his friends, with our help, made a ... read more

Over the past few years, the Crimean guides of the 7 Summits Club have made several original routes intended for members of our training programs. . As a result, we can note that Alexander Marinkevich and his friends, with our help, made a certain contribution to the development of climbing in the Crimea. We offer you an overview of the new routes from the 7 Summits Club.

  Koshka (Cat) rock massive  is located near the village of Simeiz. Simeiz is an ideal place in the Western part of the Crimean mountains in terms of a combination of rock climbing and sea recreation. The rocks here come close to the shore.

 

 

In Soviet times, high-level competitions, including international ones, were held on the Koshka. Later, the period of arrangement of permanent (multi-pitch) routes began. Now there are up to 80 routes on the whole rock massif. The very first routes, if you go from Simeiz, pass along the Eastern face. Here on the positive terrain are the easiest routes available (under the guidance of guides) for novice climbers.

 The route "Kenya" (4-5)  was created by the guides of the 7 Summits Club specifically for preparing amateur climbers for steep wall ascent  on Mount Kenya.

 5 pitches

 

 

Louis-Philippe and the Gornyashka. Routes of the Uch-Kosh gorge.

 

Uch-Kosh is a long valley by the standards of the Southern coast (a gorge), with a length of about 5 kilometers. At the bottom of the river (stream) Bala flows. The gorge goes to the suburb of Yalta Vasilyevka past the sanatorium "Dolossy" and the village of Sovetskoe. Uch-Kosh is one of the closest rocky areas to Yalta, convenient for entrances. From the city center it is no more than 15 kilometers.

 

However, strict water protection regime for a long time limited the mountaineering and climbing development of the area. The guides of the 7 Summits Club were the first to make multi-pitch routes here: "Gornyashka" and "Louis-Philippe". The latter is named after one of the most active members in the Crimean programs of the 7 Summits Club.

 

Louis-Philippe (4-5S+). 9 pitches.

 

 

 

Gornyashka (4-5S). 10 pitches.

 

 

 

 

Lucy (4-5B). Shaan-Kaya.

 

At the word Shaan-Kai, the climbers ' blood begins to rise with adrenaline. I immediately remember the iconic overhanging wall, which could have been stormed by a few people. 250 meters of negative slope, a rare phenomenon on a global scale. For a long time, either trails or routes of extreme complexity led to the top of the rock massive. Until, finally, the guides of the 7 Summits Club did not pay attention to the fact that along the edges of the overhanging wall there are areas where it is quite possible to find beautiful routes. Last year, in 2019, Alexander Marinkevich completed work on two routes at once, one on the Western part of the wall, the other on the Eastern part. They were dedicated to the founders of the 7 Summits Club and were named "Alex" (Abramov) and "Lucy"  (Korobeshko) respectively. The route "Lucy" is a little easier than "Alex" and has already been tested by members of the Mountain school of the 7 Summits Club. We recommend it!

 

 

Shaan-Kaya is a rock remnant or outcrop, a former part of the AI-Petri massif that broke off and slid down the slope. While still leaning. The absolute height of the top is 871 meters. The drop of the overhanging part is 235 meters. The translation is very simple – "Falcon rock", as a viewing point for the brave and strong.

 

11 pitches (4-5B)

 

 

 

Miskhor grottoes (4-6A). AI-Petri.

 

The Miskhor grottoes are an amazing natural formation on the rock wall of the AI-Petri massif (Eastern Face). In principle, it is part of the cave system of the AI-Petri karst plateau. But as a result of the collapse, the cavities usually hidden in the depth were opened up towards the southern coast of Crimea. These cave formations were first explored by the legendary pioneers of Crimean rock climbing and caving in 1960th. Since then, they have been visited for a long time only with a rope descent from above.

 

 

And now we have the route "Mishor grottos" from bottom to top. This was made possible thanks to the work of the team of Crimean guides of the 7 Summitss Club. Alexander Marinkevich, Kirill Gostev, Alexander Noskov, Alexander Rushkovsky and Alexey Yamkova took part in the creation of this masterpiece route.

 

 

This is the most beautiful route leads through the Eastern Face of AI-Petri. 20 pitches (from 4 to 6 climbing categories), the length of the wall is about 400 meters. Finish at 990 meters, very close to the Upper station of the AI-Petri cable car. The route is characterized by a rare variety of relief forms. There are also sections of ordinary big-wall climbing, and traverses over huge overhanging, in the caves themselves - the passage of cave chimneys.

 

 

 

 

Who missed Facundo? Who missed Everest? We have something fresh for You

On March 31, the famous Argentine actor and good mountaineer Facundo Arana celebrated his 48th birthday with his family, in self-isolation. And in early May, two parts of a film about his ascent of Mount Everest in 2016 were posted online. ... read more

On March 31, the famous Argentine actor and good mountaineer Facundo Arana celebrated his 48th birthday with his family, in self-isolation. And in early May, two parts of a film about his ascent of Mount Everest in 2016 were posted online. For the 7 Summits Club, that year it was our most filmed expedition. On its results the epochal film "THE HIGH-ALTITUDE GENE " was made by the RD Studio. There, the Argentine got a small role. And there are still pleasant memories of friendly communication in the base camp and during random meetings on the route...

 

 

Part 1.

 

 

 

Part 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 7 Summits Club congratulates Natasha Kartashova, the beautiful Queen of the Crimean rocks!

We are fabulously lucky that in Sunny Crimea we have such a representative, the head of programs of the Climbing school of the 7 Summits Club, as Natasha. An athlete and beauty, an authoritative hostess and administrator we are always ... read more

We are fabulously lucky that in Sunny Crimea we have such a representative, the head of programs of the Climbing school of the 7 Summits Club, as Natasha. An athlete and beauty, an authoritative hostess and administrator – we are always sure that she will do everything right.

Natasha, long, long years to your happiness, peace and stability in life! Always be in great physical shape, do not get sick and do not pay attention to trifles! Happy Birthday!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Russian Adventure Team and 7 Summits Club expedition. Everest spring 2005

 For Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) it is the fourth start on a legendry North Route. With every coming year the expedition service is getting higher. In BC and ABC this year there will be pitched large expedition tents with ... read more

 For Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) it is the fourth start on a legendry North Route. With every coming year the expedition service is getting higher. In BC and ABC this year there will be pitched large expedition tents with email and satellite phone facilities. Strong team of 11 high altitude Sherpas will establish 3 high camps on the route. Two Russian well-known mountaineers Nikolay Cherny and Ivan Dusharin will be acting as guides in this expedition.

 

 

Expedition list (24 members):

Abramov Alexander (Alex ) – leader

Cherni Nikolay (guide)

Dusharin Ivan (guide)

Selivanov Andrey (expedition doctor)

Expedition members from Russia:

Kaymachnikov Sergey

Iakovenko Alexandre

Skaller Grigory,

Ovasapyan Karo,

Lande Vladimir,

Semenov Sergey

Taidakov Yury,

Moskalev Dmitry

 

Expedition members from abroad:

Ulph Robert (UK )

Hanna Noel Richmond (UK)

Stark Lynne Patricia (UK)

Gariano Lorenzo (UK)

Christiana John Thomas (USA)

Wilde James (USA)

Schneider Nathaniel (USA)

Lihteneker Marko (Slovenia)

Mlinar Victor (Slovenia)

Pokhvalin Igor (Ukraine)

Tsokur Dmitry (Ukraine)

Kikstra Harry (Netherlands)

 

Part of the group will work on a shorter programme without summit attempt: their aim is North Col and possibly North Peak (Changse).

 

 

Every year the team of Sherpas is growing stronger. This year it consists solely of Everest summiters. Mingma Gelu Sherpa – one of the strongest Nepalese mountaineers – will act as a sirdar.

 

High Altitude Sherpas list:

  1. Mingma Gelu Sherpa - Sirdar
  2. Pasang Sherpa
  3. Pempa Rinzin Sherpa
  4. Nima Drojee Sherpa
  5. Pasang Tenpa Sherpa
  6. Tenpa Norbu Sherpa
  7. Lhakpa Sherpa
  8. Pemba Tensing Sherpa + 3 more

 

 

10.04.2005

Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu:

 

Hi, friends.

Our expedition reached Tibet and today April 10, moved from Zangmu to Nialam. On the whole everything is OK

An accident took place on the road between Katmandu and Kodari on the way to Tibet border. Because Maoists declared a strike till April 12, they are blocking the roads.

Because of this there was a special escort organized to secure the progress of the expedition to Tibet border.

 

 

The car with Alexander Abramov and Sergey Kaimachnikov lagged behind the rest of the group a bit and was assaulted by Maoists. Maoists were throwing hand-made bombs, one of which got inside the car and exploded. As a result Sergey has his left leg broken, Alexander got a bit shell-shocked. The military troops helped to organize immediate evacuation by helicopter to Katmandu. Sergey was brought to the hospital and operated. Now his condition is normal.

Alexander stayed in Katmandu to help Sergey. In a week Sergey is going to be sent to Moscow, and after this Alexander will catch up with his expedition. At present Nikolay Cherny is acting as the expedition leader. We are expressing our gratitude to Russian Embassy in Katmandu and personally to Russian Consul Vladimir Popov, Royal Mount Travel company and personally to Katya and Igor, who gave us helping hand in need, and to Asian Trekking and Dawa Sherpa.

 

May, 18

 

Alex Abramov by phone from the ABC camp.

 

In the morning.

Now all our team is in . Except, Sasha Yakovenko and Nikolay Cherny that have gone down to displace the Middle Camp. Now we have left only one kitchen tent at height of 5800 m and two tents, in which two sleeping bags left. Igor Pohvalin has gone down to the base camp. It considers, that long time to be at height 6500 is harmful to an organism. He has decided to go down for 2-3 nights in base camp. With him, Ivan Dusharin went down, because his back was ill. All others were in camp ABC. Yesterday leaders of other expedition came in our camp. There were representatives of Norwegian expedition, two Indian expeditions, expedition “Monterosa” and for short time David Hamilton from Jagged Globe. All are worried about promised fix ropes that are not arranged yet. Under an agreement with Russell it should be fixed up to top of the Second step. Leaders of these expeditions have offered us to become the fourth expedition which will go in the forefront and will detach Sherpas for fixed ropes.

 

 

We have been trying to find Russell Brice which now is in Middle Camp. Also we have decided, that today a meeting at 4 will be held. We want to invite leaders of all expeditions. All are worried about the weather forecast. Forecasts are very different.

 

Later, after meeting.

 

Today morning Vladimir Lande has gone up the North Col and started an ascent. Later two Slovene climbers Marko and Victor also have decided to leave on an ascent. On the North Col also there are Andrey Selivanov and Grigory Skaller. But their plans is simply high-altitude acclimatization. Since morning the weather was not the best. But forecasts promise 4 days of quite good conditions. Tomorrow (May, 19) Dyma Moskalev, Sasha Yakovenko, Harry Kikstra and Lorenzo Gariano, also will go upward. Three other expeditions (Norwegian and two Indian) also plan a start of climb. Nevertheless, there are no fix-ropes up to the Second Step yet. Today the meeting which was initiated by those expeditions which want to leave earlier was held. Except for these expeditions, many participants from other expeditions want to begin climb in the near future. And some of them have already left on North Col.

 

At meeting we discussed a question of termination of an arranging of a route and some financial questions. In a result it was solved, that 4 expeditions which are going to leave today - tomorrow became responsible for final fixing of ropes. It was solved, that the money collected for this purpose will be given to Sherpas which will fix ropes. In result, tomorrow 4 Sherpas will leave on North Col and next day on 8300 m. They plan to fix ropes up to the top of the Second step. Also it is possible, that tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will climb to the North Col. The weather is quite unstable. " A Window" seems unstable, duration of it will take maximum 4 days. And that is not clear, this is “a window” or simply a small decrease of wind.

 

 

Today our Sherpas have done big work. Yesterday they have climbed on the Col, then after have spent a night, today they have climbed up to height of 8300 meters. They have brought in the storm camp 40 cylinders of oxygen, sleeping bags, tents. Today they have gone down, very much tired. Nevertheless, one of them has agreed to go with Vladimir Linde on an ascent. Tomorrow at 10 morning, Lande with his individual high-altitude porter will go to camp 2

 

Our Sherpas are great ! Thank them, thanks to the Sirdar Mingma !

 

May, 20

Today Slovenes r and Viktor, Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa-partner have climbed in the camp of 8300 m. The weather was quite good and climbers plan tomorrow climb the summit. We carried on with them radio-talking. I have once again explained to them how correctly to distribute time of an ascent, depending on quantity of oxygen. Today Lorenzo Gariano and Harry Kikstra have gone down from North Col. Harry, unfortunately, became ill, there ia a high temperature, and he practically does not have voice. And tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will accompany him downwards, to the base camp. In the camp ABC, we have now quite strong wind, very coldly, clear weather. Our friends from camp 8300 speak that, there are no wind at all. But under the forecast, tomorrow there should be a wind up to 50 kms at one hour. We hope, that the ascent will pass successfully. And everyone can go down safely.

 

 

 

On May, 21

At 12:30 local time members of the international expedition 7 Summits Club Slovenes rko Lihteneker (45) and Viktor Mlinar (38) have successfully ascended to the top of Everest. They were the first this year ! Slovenes climbers successfully used a small window of weather. Now on Everest and in camp ABC the strong wind blows. Possibly, today this window will be closed, presumably till May, 27th. On our information, today about 15 climbers could reach the top. The majority left on an ascent have been forced to return.

 

 

May, 21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit. Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At 14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance to the summit climbers if needed."

 

May 21, 17:00: "Today at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good, Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."

 

May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp 3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The Sherpa can not go up."

 

May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from the South Side."

 

May 22, 14:00: "At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about 20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 Sherpas are now at the North ol, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."

 

May 22, 17.00, Message from expedition: Victor Mliner & Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition Sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This body looks as Marko. Six Sherpas, which climbed together with the members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right hand.

 

 

Today, May, 26, the weather continues to remain bad, the wind at top reaches 30 meters per one second. The nearest three days weather forecasters promise sharp decrease of wind, up to 10 meters per one second. And using this chance, May, 27 the first our group will start and May, 28 the second group will start on climb. Nikolay Cherny leads the First group, in it 8 Members and 7 Sherpas, including Sirdar Mingma. Alexander Abramov heads the second group, in it - 7 Members and 5 Sherpas. Under the plan, three Sherpas from the first group should remain after an ascent in camp of 8300 meters. It will be made for secure of the second group.

 

Group 1: James Wilde, Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.

Group 2: Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert Ulf..

 

 

 

Vladimir Lande, who participated in events May, 21, is already in Moscow. All other Members are in preparation. About half of expeditions which are now in , have the same plan, as our expedition. With an ascent 30 and May, 31. It is not so good. Experience of 2003 when in one day ascended 120 person, shows, that because of queue on the Second Step it is possible not have time to reach the top.

 

It is now hearing handbells. That Yaks approach for evacuation of one of expeditions. Expeditions have already started to go down from camp A. I think, that the nearest three days some more expeditions will be removed and will leave home.

 

Norwegian expedition, and also a part of expedition Monterosa climbed North Col today with the purpose of an ascent right at the beginning of good weather (May, 29) .

Long stay at height 6500, certainly, provided a bad effect on conditions of members. Already the second week of expectation of weather practically comes to an end. It is certainly hard for an organism. I hope, that we could overcome physical strengths, and moral - strong-willed spirit help us to win. We could reach the summit and go down alive and healthy.

 

 

How many climbers are on northern side of the Everest ? Russell Brice has told, that he has collected on fixing ropes 17 thousand dollars. It means that 170 persons have handed over on 100 dollars. And approximately 150-170 climbing Sherpas are here. So it is possible to assume, that for 2 days on the slopes of Everest there will be from 200 up to 300 climbers. It will be a chaos on May, 30-31. Plus hundreds climbers from the South. These days on the highest point it will be no free places! The queue in area of the top can be formed simply to be photographed.

 

 

Today, May, 30, seven Members and six high-altitude porters (Sherpas) from the 7 Summits Club expedition successful climbed the summit of Mount Everest. The first, about 7 mornings, has risen Karo Ovasapian, in half an hour - Alexander Jakovenko, behind him - Nikolay Cherny. Then Igor Pohvalin from Crimea. Jury Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller have risen a bit later. Six Sherpas (Pasang Tenzing, Mingma Forche, Pemba Tensing Samte, Mingma Gelu, Pasang Temba Geldjin, Pemba Renjin) have reached the top with their members, led by Sirdar Mingma (for him it is 4th ascent).

 

 

We would like to note Nikolay Cherny success, first time trying to make an ascent during the first Soviet Everest expedition in 1982. We congratulate him!

 

 

 

We are proud to be his partners and we note, that the success was held in our expedition. Now on the high slopes of Everest the weather has deteriorated, but to this moment all participants of an ascent have gone down in camp at height of 8300 meters. The majority of them will spend the night there. Only r together with his individual Sherpa has decided to go down in . Tomorrow the second group will climb from 7700 m up to 8300 meters. As well as it was planned, in it there will be 12 persons.

 

May, 31

Alexander Abramov from the camp 3 at height of 8300 meters.

Now all have climbed in camp, except for Robert Ulph and his personal porter, that turned back. Now here are 10 persons: 6 Members and 4 Sherpas. In one tent Abramov and Moskalev, we sit, we breathe oxygen. In other tents: Lorenzo, Harry with individual guides, then John and Natan, also with the Sherpas. Weather does not please, strong wind … .Snow, a storm. Whether to leave, or to sit, or to go down.

 

The first group goes down very slowly. Only Yakovenko, and probably, doctor Igor Pohvalin had reached camp . And other six person are still on mountain. Uncle Kolja on North Col. And Yura Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller, they will spend the night in camp on 7700 m. r and James are already in the base camp.

 

 

June, 1.

 

Today there was awful night. We the big company, 10 persons, spent the night on 8300 m. The tent jumped and skipped under a pressure of a wind. I on a portable radio set transferred the information in other tents that we do not leave, neither at one o`clock, nor per three …..

Today, when we began to count oxygen, appeared, that for night we have spent 10 cylinders. Everyone were adjusted to go downwards as on everyone remained on 2 cylinders, that it is not enough. To give guys chance we have made the strong-willed decision. I, as already been at top, Nathan and his Sherpa go downwards. Yesterday Nathan has received small frost-bitten of fingers. As we have found out, this day there was only one climbing group, it seems, Brazilians. They have reached the Second step and were forced to come back. On 8300 m there was our good friend Lhapka Sherpa planning the fifth ascention. However she also has not left.

 

We started downwards, leaving necessary amount of oxygen to the four (Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Harry Kikstra and John Christiana). They are going to make an attempt tomorrow. I, Nathan and his Sherpa, have started to go downwards at 10 a.m..

 

Weather forecast for tomorrow: the same as for today. But now, to the evening, clouds have dispersed. We have agreed, that if the weather will be bad, guys go downwards since morning. Robert Ulf, which else hoped to join summiters, has turned downwards. Alexander Abramov, Nathaniel Schneider and his Sherpa stay in now.

 

 Today, June, 2, at 8:45 local time, Dmitry Moskalev has informed, that he stands at the top of the world. Sherpa Mingma Norbu has climbed the summit of Everest with him. On a distance about one hour from it, Harry Kikstra from Holland, an American John Christiana and two Sherpas Renji and Lacha. Lorenzo Gariano is also near to top. Such information - on 9 o`clock in the morning local time. The weather is clear, but a strong wind blows. Nevertheless, today many sportsmen from different expeditions have reached the top. We shall wait for descent of our comrades and on it to finish expedition.

 

Later: 17:30 local time.

 

Dmitry Moskalev has climbed the top at 8:30. On descent he has met John Christiana and his Sherpa Renji. They have risen on top about one o`clock in the afternoon. Later he has met Harry Kikstra and his Sherpa Lakcha, they also continued climb. Till now we have no information, whether Harry have reached the summit. There was no radio communication with them during whole day, though all members and Sherpas are supplied radio stations. At one o`clock Lorenzo Gariano came on communication. He has informed, that he is in camp of 7700 m. During an ascent, on the Second step, he (as he said) « has lost eyesight ». We do not know precisely, what it means. In any case, Lorenzo has managed independently gone down in camp 2 on 7700 meters. Probably, he has just frozen eyes, because of a strong wind. We have sent Sherpa Nima which has quickly climbed in camp of 7700 m. Now they begin descent downwards, they promise to go down up to camp ABC. Now Sherpa Mingma Norbu which we have left of 8300 m in camp to wait for the two climbers Harry and Lakcha, has informed, that sees them at height 8500. Whether has had been Harry on top whether not, we do not know. We hope for the best, also we hope, that they will have time to go down in camp 3 up to darkness. Unfortunately, in camp 3 there is only one cylinder of oxygen. It will be heavy night for three persons. It will be their third night at this height.

 

 

June, 3

 

Small problems were with the phone, now all is normal. On 19 Chinese time a situation is following. Dmitry Moskalev has gone down in , with Sherpa Mingma Norbu. John Christiana and Harry Kikstra are now on descent, approximately at 7500 meters. They continue to go downwards, with support of Renji and Lakcha. On the eve, Harry has reached the summit about 2 p.m.. Descent was very difficult: they have reached camp 3 only after 10 p.m., in darkness.

 

 

Dyma Moskalev now eats rice and is going to go down in base camp. For tomorrow`s morning, on 7, the jeep to Katmandu is ordered. Today in morning Lorenzo Gariano, Nathaniel Schneider and Robert Ulf have left from to the base camp.

 

So it is possible to sum up, by results of expedition: 22 persons have climbed on top, from them 12 Members and 10 Sherpas. Unfortunately, one of climbers, r Lihteneker, was lost on descent.

 

 

 

Climbers in quarantine: Running up Mount Elbrus, home climbing wall and other photos of the project ‪#‎

For marathon-runner Alexei Likharev, being stuck in self-isolation doesnt mean sitting on his couch all day. In April, he used the fire escape stairs in his nine-story apartment building to run up the equivalent height of Mount Elbrus ... read more

For marathon-runner Alexei Likharev, being stuck in self-isolation doesn’t mean sitting on his couch all day. In April, he used the fire escape stairs in his nine-story apartment building to run up the equivalent height of Mount Elbrus (5,642 m!), the highest mountain in Europe. To do that, he went up and down, from the first to ninth floor, 280 times which took him a total of 9 hours and 34 minutes, not including lunch breaks.

 

 

“The hardest thing for me in isolation is to come to terms with the absence of physical activity and suppress my thirst for adventure - and I’m not going to do that,” he admits in the video documenting his achievement.

  

Dmitry Popov (member of the Russian national team, Voronezh) on the home climbing wall.

 

 

 

 

And just photos #‎

 

 

 

On the 30th anniversary of the historical expedition Everest Peace Climb

It was a Grand idea Everest Peace Climb, by mountaineers of three great powers - the United States, the USSR and China. The idea, and the entire project, belonged to famous American climbers Jim Whittaker and Warren Thompson. During ... read more

It was a Grand idea — Everest Peace Climb, by mountaineers of three great powers - the United States, the USSR and China. The idea, and the entire project, belonged to famous American climbers Jim Whittaker and Warren Thompson. During 1987-1988, the stubborn organizers tirelessly negotiated with Moscow and Beijing and achieved the almost impossible - in such a short time for our countries (in just 2 years!) they managed to get the consent and all the necessary permits and visas of the three parties to conduct a joint expedition. In the States, they were supported by such world-famous people as Senator Edward Kennedy, Ted Turner and many others. The organizing Committee under the leadership of Jim managed to attract more than 60 sponsors and take almost all the expenses of the expedition on themselves, and they amounted to more than one million dollars. (From Mstislav Gorbenko's book)

 

 

 

The film about the joint expedition of three countries (USA, USSR and China) on Everest in 1990 begins in a surprisingly beautiful way. It is called Three Flags over Everest. Author: Laszlo Pal. The text is read by Robert Redford. And, it seems that Paul McCartney specifically wrote the song (although this is not true). What a time it was, what hopes!

 

 

The " Everest Peace Climb " was timed to coincide with two events in 1990: the Goodwill Games in Seattle and the 20th anniversary of Earth Day. The highest peak of the world as a sporting object was to draw the world's attention on global environmental problems and to demonstrate to the world that the mutual trust and cooperation between Nations can "take" any height, and not in the mountaineering sense of the word. (From Mstislav Gorbenko's book)

 

 

Mstislav Gorbenko us asked to post information about a possible anniversary meeting of the heroes of the historical expedition:

 

 

In 1990, in May 7, 8 and 10, a unique ascent  on Mount Everest from the North along the North-East ridge was made. 20 members of the Everest Peace Climb international expedition, climbers from three countries-the USA, the USSR and China reached the summit.

 

I was lucky to represent Ukraine in this expedition. On May 8, I spent more than one hour alone on top of the world. In those ancient times, there were absolutely adequate climbing rules – 1 route – 1 expedition, i.e. only our expedition worked on the route. Each member had the opportunity to work first, participate in the drop-offs and reach the top. We worked, as always, independently without Sherpas, without the use of oxygen (up to 8,300 m) and even cleared the mountain of debris.

 

Details of this expedition can be found on the Internet in my first book, the Ascent Of Peace on Everest.

 

Today I remembered this most interesting and important event in mountaineering for me because many climbers of this expedition  wanted to gather to celebrate the 30th anniversary at a meeting in Ljubljana, new home of my team-mate Andrey Tselishchev. The world quarantine confused all our plans, but I suggested to my friends Vladimir Shataev, Eric Ilinsky, Sasha Tokarev, Andrey Tselishchev, Viktor Volodin, Laverne Woods, Ed Visturs, and Ian Wade not to worry and to postpone this meeting, as well as the Olympics, to 2021!

 

Each of us, of course, had much more difficult climbs.  But our joint training in the mountains at numerous training camps in different mountain areas of the World and two months under Everest made us great Friends.

 

Unfortunately, we will not have with us climbers on Everest Grigory Lunyakov, Sergey Arsentiev, Katia Ivanova, Anatoly Moshnikov, who died in the mountains. Dr. Edik Lipen is not with us either…

 

I received a letter from the leader of our expedition, the first American climber on Everest, Jim Whittaker, as always with humor : "thank You for inviting me to the meeting – this is a good idea, but I am almost a hundred years old (91), and I can only be with you in my thoughts and at a distance."

 

I hope that in these may days, Chinese climbers will reach the top of Mount Everest on the route of pioneers from the North after 60 years. We wish them good luck! It is possible that our Tibetan climbers on mount Everest in 1990 will participate there, but I have lost contact with them.

 

See you in 2021!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Video on the topic "Climbers in quarantine". We are in different places but we are together!

Friends of the 7 Summits Club made a video in support of our challenge Climbers in Quarantine - #climbersinquarantine. read more

 

Friends of the 7 Summits  Club made a video in support of our challenge “Climbers in Quarantine” - #climbersinquarantine.

 

 

 

More photos of our challenge

 

 

 

 

 

 

We are in different places but we are together! The guides of the 7 Summits Club keep their spirits and fitness in the self isolation mode

The quarantine mode found the guides of the 7 Summits Club in different places. Some of us are away from home, some of us have to spend time in cities. This is a time for training, for understanding many things, for creativity, ... read more

The quarantine mode found the guides of the 7 Summits Club in different places. Some of us are away from home, some of us have to spend time in cities. This is a time for training, for understanding many things, for creativity, finally.

 

 

Our main guides-athletes are ready to demonstrate their high fitness. The best place for this is at the dacha. Get out of Moscow!

 

Boris Yegorov, as expected, is ready for any space overload!

 

 

Artem Rostovtsev relax at home.

 

Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko are in Crimea, where they have the opportunity to train in nature.

 

 

 

Vladimir Kotlyar left for one of the most severe regions of the world – Kolyma just before the quarantine. I decided to stay there for a long time.

 

Alexander Dorozhukov is preparing to use his new car.

 

 

Dmitry Ermakov: "Snow leopard" needs a full meal, and always in the fresh air.

 

 

Luba Pershina in Mexico started (and with pleasure!) cook Mexican food. She wants to treat you. And also, reads scientific literature on the culture of Mexico, to know even more and tell you a lot of interesting things when you arrive…

 

 

 

R. J. Nagarajan. Expedition to Antarctica & Mt Vinson story

Looking Back ... some nostalgic feeling of being in Antarctica and summiting Mt Vinson with Alex Abramov and the crazy Russian team: Vladislav Lachkarev and Alla Mishina. The entire trip was freezing cold, white-out, windy ...only the ... read more

Looking Back ... some nostalgic feeling of being in Antarctica and summiting Mt Vinson with Alex Abramov and the crazy Russian team:  Vladislav Lachkarev and  Alla Mishina.

The entire trip was freezing cold, white-out, windy ...only the Russians can heck this ... super strong and resilient folks not forgetting their spirits! (not vodka .... but pure alcohol! :))

As crazy as they can be, but I had some wonderful time and learned so many values!

Since I got back from the trip … I wondered why was it so much fun and at the same time, we all became so close and manage to endure that atrocious weather and manage to get to the pinnacle of Antarctica. These were some of my reflections and learnings for this expedition!

 

 

Leadership – I have been in many teams, also have run companies and transform a few of them but the Leadership of Alex was the difference. He was motivating, educating, at times a drill Sargent (driving us crazy) and a fun-loving individual! And when he is on the mountain… he is definitely in charge together with Artom (Guide) He truly exhibits it when the situation arises during so many challenges along the way up to the summit, At times he raises his voice, jokes, teaches, etc. and mind u the people who climb with him are all Business owners/ CEO’s (Vlad, Alla, Sergey, Sasha…) We all continue to climb with him because of the same reasons.

There was a particular time I was struggling in the climb and was beginning to have self-doubt, he turned around and told me u are stronger and u know that! I didn’t get it in the beginning, but later I knew he just wanted me to focus on the climb and not noise inside me! He can be fun and crazy at the same time and an example of it was when he bought a Xmas tree and shipped to Union Glacier and placed it outside our tent area so we will not feel left out and will feel festive!

Teamwork – When I first met the team, I felt the odd one out among an entire Russian team, This brown Malaysian guy trying to blend in with these folks who spoke a different language and culturally different! But then as the expedition progressed, I truly felt the comradeship of the team, they looked after each other, supported each other, to the extend when we have meals they will wait for me, not once but every time and not forgetting the alcohol drinking sessions after our meals. So there was once I asked my fellow teammate, Vlad, why are these folks so hospitable, then he replied we are FAMILY! In a family, there will be ups and down but we stick together. I also realized that my tentmate Ella (a super fit grandma) who keeps an eye on my safety and wellbeing! AN example of it was once I wandered out of the tent after dinner and I was out for many hours, and as she got worried, she got hold of Alex and started searching for me!

 

 

Knowledgeable – He might not be the fastest or fittest climber I know, but he definitely knows his mountains esp. places where he climbs (Everest 10x, the 7 summits in 7 months and many more). An example of this was when we got to the high camp that evening, a couple of teams just got back after summiting. They were surprised we came in when the weather windows are about to close. And we were told the park rangers will also come by the following day to inform us to go down. Alex just smiled and told us to have a hearty meal and go to bed. A few hours later, he called out to all of us and asked us to get ready in 20 mins. I was puzzled, when I stepped out it was windy (easily 40 -50 km hour) and freezing (probably -30c)!

Without saying more, we all got ready and had our breakfast before heading out. As expected it was cloudy, windy and freezing… we just kept walking and walking … a couple of hours into the climb and when we took a turn, the sun which was hiding behind the mountains rise! Although it was still cloudy it was not so windy and the weather got better as we climbed higher. It was a challenging climb as we got closer … gasping for breath we manage to reach the summit ridge and summited!

 

 

When we got back to base camp, the other teams were surprised that we actually climbed and more so to the summit! That’s where I know Alex knows his mountains pretty darn well!

No doubt every mountaineer would have similar stories and teams who love them and great experiences, meanwhile, this was my personal experience something I thought worth sharing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once again about the Grand Canyon of Crimea. VIDEO about the tour of the 7 Summits Club guides

The Grand Canyon of Crimea is a beautiful natural site, a fracture of the earth's crust. It impresses with its dizzy steep walls, blue bathtubs for swimming with ice water! The depth of the canyon exceeds 300 m, the length is 3.5 km, the ... read more

The Grand Canyon of Crimea is a beautiful natural site, a fracture of the earth's crust. It impresses with its dizzy steep walls, blue bathtubs for swimming with ice water!

 

 

 The depth of the canyon exceeds 300 m, the length is 3.5 km, the width in some places does not exceed 3 meters. Hiking in the canyon takes a whole day and remains forever in the memory of the traveler.

 

 

 

Premiere of the film of Vitaly Lazo on the Internet. "The death zone of Nang Parbat"

The premiere of the film was supposed to take place in Moscow cinemas in April. Today's situation has changed all plans, the screening was held in an online format on April 20 at 13:00 Moscow time. The expedition to Nanga Parbat took place ... read more

The premiere of the film was supposed to take place in Moscow cinemas in April. Today's situation has changed all plans, the screening was held in an online format on April 20 at 13:00 Moscow time.

 

 

The expedition to Nanga Parbat took place in the summer of 2019 and became the third stage of the project “Freeride in the death zone”. At this stage, the first Italian Snow Leopard Carlalberto Chimenti joined the Russian deuce. The team climbed the Diamir Wall on July 3, 2019. Skiing down from 8080 m. Based on the results of the expedition, the feature film "Death Zone of Nanga Parbat" was shot. For the first time, the team used quadrocopters for filming. The drone was shot above 8000 meters. The film has already become a winner and entered the short lists of several foreign and Russian film festivals. The film is presented at the 23rd Moscow International Film Festival of Mountain and Adventure Films “Vertical”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alexander Abramov and a company of guides of the 7 Summits Club continues to inspect the Crimean rocks. The turn of the famous Morcheka came

Alexander Abramov visits places of "his military glory" in the Crimea! Mount Morcheka is the most difficult climbing face of the Crimea! 30 years ago, Alex climbed the face very quickly, in 3.5 hours. It was at mountaineering competitions ... read more

 

Alexander Abramov visits places of "his military glory" in the Crimea! Mount Morcheka is the most difficult climbing face of the Crimea! 30 years ago, Alex climbed the face very quickly, in 3.5 hours. It was at mountaineering competitions and his partner was Valery Rozov!

And here is the camping place of experienced climbers near Morcheka! Alex Abramov reads reports on climbing in a local  book.

A little more time and we will decide to climb on the face of Morcheka ourselves!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Video about the winter climb on Communism Peak. New route, great achievement! There is something to be proud of!

Our friend, the guide of Central Asian programs of the 7 Summits Club, Andrei Erokhin, provided us with this video for publication. We have the right to be proud of the achievement of a new generation of our climbers. Just deciding on a ... read more

Our friend, the guide of Central Asian programs of the 7 Summits Club, Andrei Erokhin, provided us with this video for publication. We have the right to be proud of the achievement of a new generation of our climbers. Just deciding on a winter climb on Peak Communism is already a lot.

 

 

But the team chose a new, unexpected and beautiful line to climb the plateau. And achieved success worthy of previous generations of our climbers. Well-coordinated teamwork, interaction, endurance and composure are the components of success. New heights to you guys!

 

 

The peak of Communism (7495 meters) is the highest peak in the territory of the former USSR, located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs. The summit was discovered in 1928, during the Soviet-German scientific expedition. and until 1962 it bore the name "Stalin's Peak." The first ascent was made by Evgeny Abalakov in 1933. In 1962, the peak was renamed on“Peak  Communism”. After Tajikistan gained independence in 1999, a new name “Ismail Somoni Peak” appeared in honor of the founder of the first (in the 10th century) Tajik state. In February 1986, the first winter ascent was made to the peak: 24 climbers (17 from the USSR national team and 7 from the Uzbek national team) climbed the summit in conditions of severe frost.

 

 

 

Film about climbing Mount Everest from our friend, a member of the 7 Summits Club Dolores Al Shellah

This year will be a record for virtual ascents to Mount Everest. Alas, the Big Mountain is closed to us. Its good that there is no quarantine on the Internet. Here is an opportunity to return to the spring of 2019. Return and relive the ... read more

This year will be a record for virtual ascents to Mount Everest. Alas, the Big Mountain is closed to us. It’s good that there is no quarantine on the Internet. Here is an opportunity to return to the spring of 2019. Return and relive the excitement, tension and delight of the decisive days of the assault on Everest. The amazing girl Dolores Al Shellah was part of another expedition, but to a large extent joined the team of the 7 Summits  Club.

 

 

 In general, we are not strangers to her. Firstly, she is Serbian by mother. Secondly, in 2018, she ascended Mount Elbrus as part of the 7 Summit Club group.

 

 

 

 Dolores was always close to the members and guides of our expedition during the expedition on Everest. This can be seen in the frames of a highly professional film prepared by National Geographic Abu Dhabi. Actually the reason for this publication was the release of this film:

 

 

And a few more words about Dolores

 

This is she with dad and mom. Dad is a citizen of Jordan, mom is from Serbia.

 

 

 

Dolores grew up and was brought up in two cultures at once. The main place of residence is Amman, the capital of Jordan. Dolores spent all the summer months with her grandmother in Serbia. While studying for a year, she traveled to the United States. Dolores graduated from Petra University in Jordan with a degree in business administration. From childhood, she was a versatile athlete: athletics, swimming, equestrian sport. Then – rock climbing, mountaineering and traveling. After working a little in business, Dolores decided to become an adventure professional. And while she succeeds. In 2018, she signed a contract with the mighty Sustainable City organizations from Dubai and received the status of Ambassador Brand. That's where the money comes from for expeditions and trips. We hope that everything in the world will return to normal and we will meet with that charming girl more than once. In Antarctica, at the North Pole, near Aconcagua, Carstensz or elsewhere.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Summits Club establishes a new project "Seven Summits of Russia"

7 Summits of Russia is a unique project of the 7 Summits Club, which includes our highest mountains and volcanoes. We will not stay at home while the borders are closed, we came up with an alternative "import-substituting" project. read more

“7 Summits of Russia” is a unique project of the 7 Summits Club, which includes our highest mountains and volcanoes. We will not stay at home while the borders are closed, we came up with an alternative "import-substituting" project.

 

 

Elbrus -> Elbrus from the South (5642m) - the highest peak in Europe and Russia.

 

Everest -> Elbrus from the North (5621m) - the highest peak in Europe and Russia.

 

Aconcagua -> Kazbek from the North (5033m) - one of the highest peaks of the Caucasus.

 

Kilimanjaro -> Klyuchevskaya Sopka (4750m) - the highest volcano on the Kamchatka Peninsula.

 

Denali -> Belukha (4506m) - the highest peak of the Russian Altai.

 

 

Vinson -> Pobeda (3003m) - the highest peak of Yakutia.

 

Carstensz -> Ai-Petri (1234m) - the most beautiful peak of Crimea.

 

 

Seven summits - forever! You can’t stop us. We will find the "seven summits" in Moscow and Moscow region, if necessary.

 

 

 

 

Message of the President of the 7 Summits Club of 7 Summits: without panic, we are preparing for new travels and preparing new routes!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club: Let's not lose heart, and not think that life is over. The panic will end, and life goes on. Love and take care of your loved ones, friends, partners and customers. Russia has ... read more

 

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

Let's not lose heart, and not think that life is over.

The panic will end, and life goes on.

Love and take care of your loved ones, friends, partners and customers.

 

 

Russia has experienced many shocks. This is one of them.

Not the first and not the last. You have to be strong and look at everything calmly.

Close the borders -  will open.

People get sick - get well.

By and large, this is panic. World panic.

 

My mountain life is full of shocks. And it taught me to stay calm in any, absolutely any situation. Moreover - find the pros in any cons.

As you know, “minus to minus gives plus”.

 

We love ourselves and love the mountains. The mountains give us energy and an unforgettable experience. Mountains harden us, strengthen our body and psyche, mountains teach us to live and be friends, to help a friend. Mountains test people and human relationships for strength. "Mountaineering is the courage of a nation."

 

It will take 2-3 months and everything will work out. We will go to the mountains again. The mountains stood for millions of years and still stand.

 

The 7 Summits Club is preparing for the summer, for the fall. And even in the spring we are not going to lose heart.

 

Now the mountains of Russia are open to us.

Crimea, Caucasus, Altai, Sayans, Kamchatka and many more areas. We have a perspective. Let's live on! Let's live!

 

All spring we will climb the Crimean rocks.

All summer we will climb the Caucasus, Elbrus, Kazbek from the Russian side. Altai - Belukha. Sayans. Kamchatka volcanoes.

We have many mountains in Russia.

Let's discover Russia!

 

Nepal is closed. It is time for virtual climbing Everest

  We had to cancel our Everest and Lhotse expeditions due to the fact that Nepal officially closed the climbing season in the spring of 2020. But there is an alternative - you can make a virtual climb on Everest. ... read more

  We had to cancel our Everest and Lhotse expeditions due to the fact that Nepal officially closed the climbing season in the spring of 2020. But there is an alternative - you can make a virtual climb on Everest.   https://yandex.ru/everest/  Photos were  made during our expeditions on Everest in the spring of 2016.

 

 

The expedition diary of the 7 Summits Club group on Kilimanjaro from Artyom Rostovtsev. Climbing to the top of Kilimanjaro on the night of March 9

Artyom Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello from our team, while still from the mountain! Now we are heading down. Today, despite daily rainfall, in fine weather we climbed to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. Everything is ... read more

Artyom Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello from our team, while still from the mountain! Now we are heading down. Today, despite daily rainfall, in fine weather  we climbed to the summit  of Mount Kilimanjaro. Everything is according to plan - we met dawn on the border of the crater. With our local friends at the top, we recorded congratulations on March 8, and hurried down. Now we again come to life in the rain at Camp Millennium (3800m). Tomorrow we go down completely.

 

 

 

 

And of course, congratulations on the holiday of spring for our lovely ladies from the top of Kilimanjaro from our local team! Enjoy it!