Everest 2017

The Federation of Mountaineering of Russia on December 2 held an annual gala evening devoted to summing up the results of the year. On it the president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov presented memorable signs "Summiter of  Everest" to the climbers who have climbed the highest point of the World in 2017 ...

Thanks to the organizers of the evening for the excellent opportunity to communicate with good, close in spirit people!

Photos of different authors from facebook:

On 2 December, the Federation of mountaineering of Russia (FMR) holds an annual gala evening devoted to summarizing the year. On it, in particular, the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov will present a commemorative signs "Everest Climber". Climbers who have ascended to the highest point of the planet in 2017 first time, will receive this award. A list is provided below.

Gala evening of FMR will be held on 2 December 2017 in the hall of the Russian auction house (the building of Gostiny Dvor)

Arrival of guests at 18.00…

We invite all friends of 7 summits Club!

A list of reward climbers 2017:

Lyulyaev Cyril (38 years old) 16.05.2017 (Summit)

Dzeitov Mohammed (32) 22.05 2017

Telnov Alexander (39) 22.05.2017

Grushko Igor, Ukraine (42) 22.05.2017

Sadecki George (53) 22.05.2017

Kochanski Janusz, Poland (54) 19.05.2017

Tebiev Valery (46) 22.05.2017

Akkaev Aznaur (44) 22.05.2017

Briman, Daniil (46) 22.05.2017

Kravt Eugene (41) 22.05.2017

Savchenko, Oleg (50) 19.05.2017

 Starikovsky, Andrei  USA/Russia (52) 19.05.2017

Sidyakin Alexander (39) 19.05.2017

In the framework of the gala evening also there  will be held:

-  awarding of the Champions of Russia in the high-altitude and high-altitude-technical classes;

-  awarding  of the Champions among veterans;

- presentation of nominees and  awarding of Steel angel Award  for the best women's climbing of the year;

-  presentation of nominees and awarding of the Golden ice axe of Russia 2017 Award for the best climbing achievement of the year.

An active member of our Club Daniil Briman, Everest climber this year in the team under the leadership of Alex Abramov, made an unusual gift to us and to all climbers. He released a beer called “8848”…

 Beer is made from water from the glaciers of mount Everest (this is unconfirmed). As confirmed by the data: hops is from the USA, malt is from Germany, juniper and Goji berries – from the Altai. Design and production - Russia.

 The first informal tasting will be held tomorrow (Thursday) at the 7 Summits Club on the lecture of Olga Rumyantseva.

And the official tasting - December 2th, at the year meeting of the Russian Mountaineering Federation. Where Alexander Abramov,  8^th times Everest climber, will be presenting the medals to the climbers for Everest 2017.

We invite all mountain lovers!

Premiere of the documentary RD Studio of Valdis Pelsh "Gene of high altitude or How to get to Everest" is showing  by the First channel Russian TV. We saw the two first of three parts. Who could not, please see here:

Today  at midnight please come to the TV-screens to watch the sequel...

On  5 July 2017. Live from 23.55.

Do the rating, comment, praise or scold. This may influence on future joint projects of 7 summits Club and RD Studios.

We continue the publication of photos of the Everest expedition from one of the members, Princeton University Professor Andrei Starikovsky, who was the first of our team reached this year the summit of Mount Everest.

 Third series: Ice training sessions and portraits of expedition members (206 photos)

 https://7vershin.ru/photos/all/section_946/

Here (below) are just a few favorites....

 Second series: base camp, acclimatization outings and the ritual Puja (100 photos)

 https://7vershin.ru/photos/all_1/section_943/

First series: Nepal, Tibet, the road to base camp (202 photos)

 https://7vershin.ru/photos/all_1/section_942/

Alexander Abramov: Congratulations Zhenya with the end of the program "Seven summits"! And the team are leaving Nepal ...

Alex Abramov, a leader of the Everest expedition:

Today, finally, we got to Lhasa and settled in the cool Intercontinental hotel. We need to give people a rest from the expedition life, it was difficult to live under field conditions for 40 days. A little about outcomes. We conducted an expedition in 39 days. This is probably the shortest of the Everest expedition for 10 years. The experiment was a success and showed that it is possible. Just do not economize , let more oxygen.

After all, all problems on the high altitude are from the lack of oxygen.

In our expedition there was records and remarkable achievements. And some of them we pointed out today.

Janusz Kochanski – world record of 126 days on all 7 summits.

Eugene Kravt successfully completed the 7 summits project.

Aznaur Akaev – 3rd Balkar climber who became a summiter of Everest.

Valery Tebiev – the first since 1995 Ossetian mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest.

Daniil Briman - made the ascent in sporty style.

Andrei Starikovsky, the first Russian American Professor on Everest.

Other heroes: world women record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, Oleg Savchenko and Alexander Sidyakin have already left home.

Sergei Larin – 6th time on the summit of Everest.

Alexander Abramov – 8 times – a new record for Russia and the CIS.

 Oleg Savchenko, Everest summiter in the team the 7 summits Club, a former Deputy of the Duma of the Russian Federation:

 Yes, we managed, as promised, to preserve fully but  the one body. This is the body of Lihteneker Marko from Slovenia. All dead climbers that are on the slopes, they are in different poses. I was just horrified. I thought when they announced this action, I saw pictures in internet but it was not so impressive. It's a terrible sight to see people who are 20 years, 40 years in that condition, with that expression on his face, with which they died. And we have not much time but did it.

 I am very grateful to the Sherpas who accompanied us, that they agreed to help us. According to their faith, they are forbidden to touch the dead bodies. I went in one group with Alexander Sidyakin, my friend and Deputy of the Russian State Duma. We were accompanied by two Sherpas.

We also managed to cover the "famous" green boots. Everyone knows that at the level of 8 500 meters... (said with heavy breathing - approx. ed.)... Sorry, I now the air is not enough... In 1996 there died one Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, he just lay down to rest and froze to death. His body had frozen into stone. He had a green climbing boots. And all the climbers began to determine the height to talk about the green shoes. This is the mark of 8,500 meters.

 We were able to do some semblance of the grave, covered his body with stones. Now there is no this reference. I think it's better to use gadgets for navigation than dead body.

 Another body of a climber from Ireland we tried to pull out, but were unable. He hangs on the ropes at the altitude 8600 meters. When we have been trying,  I have "flown" the glove, I ended up frostbitten hands. And then it was impossible to continue.

  Most importantly, all of the climbers in base camp have supported our initiative. It is about 600 climbers of all nationalities, from all over the world. From South Africa, India and to North America. Moreover, it was supported by the official Chinese…

 Marko Lihteneker (1959 -2005) was one of the first foreigners who took part in the ascent to Everest in the expedition of the 7 summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. He and his partner Viktor Mlinár positioned itself as an experienced, strong athletes who wanted  to make a quick ascent before to the top goes the main mass of climbers. And not to use the services of Sherpas.

  Marko was a member of the national team of Slovenia for ski-mountaineering and marathon runner, there was no doubt about his physical condition. And his friend Viktor had no doubt that there is something wrong in the fact that his comrade  goes behind. Just Marko all the time had small problems with the oxygen equipment he set up. Mlinár was afraid of frostbite and so I decided to go without delay. Be with them, someone from the Sherpas,  a misfortune most likely could have been avoided. Lihteneker died on the descent from the summit of Mount Everest, a problem with the oxygen equipment apparently played a major role in this. The frozen body of  the Slovenian climber, hung on ropes at a height of 8800 meters, more than 10 years the terror of the rising climbers. And now the body is covered. Hope for a long time. Will check in a year.

May 22 at 4: 30 am Nepal time the second team of the 7 summits Club reached the summit of Everest. These were: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alexander Abramov (his 8th times). Now they have gone down to the base camp. All climbers feel fine. Tomorrow or the day after they are ready to go to Lhasa. And later in Kathmandu, and in Russia.

Once again, congratulations on a successful ascent!

See unique photos:

An hour ago, Alexander Abramov reports, that today, May 22th, at 4: 30 am Nepal time, the team reached the summit of Mount Everest. Have a good descent, guys!

 At 6 am in Moscow all members were already on 8300 and continued the descent.

 The summit was reached by: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alex Abramov (8th times).

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from camp 8300.

 Our entire team at 8300. Already above Cho-Oyu. In General, as this is our 4th outing, everyone is feeling great. All parts of the route: base camp – middle camp, middle camp – ABC, ABC– 7000, 7000 – 7800, 7800 – 8300 we passed exactly  in 3:45. All! I'm scared that we will do tomorrow. Again 3:45 to the summit?

Now the weather at 8300 is windless. And the forecast is the same. It seems, we caught a beautiful night for climbing.

 One thing upset. It looks like tonight or this morning, one climber died five meters below 8300. It is still unknown from which expedition. But he went without oxygen. It seems the dead man is just lying around the trail.

 The route on Everest

https://yandex.ru/everest/

 Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

 Our team Abramov Alex, Briman Daniil, Kravt Eugene, Tebiev Valery, Akkaev  Aznaur – all climbed to 7800. We feel excellent. The weather is a little windy. With us four Sherpas are going up. We already camped in tents, ate, everything is OK. Tomorrow at 10 am we go to 8300.

 In the base camp staff and friends prepare to meet the heroes, the team of Sergey Larin  shall be back tonight.

 Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

Hi! From the North Col at 7,000 m. Today, our group climbed up the Saddle, with a plan to climb the summit at 22th May. Today Andrei Starikovsky at 6:00 am climbed up to the top of Everest. Later the rest of the first team headed by Sergei Larin (Alexander Sidyakin and Oleg Savchenko plus Sherpas) reached the summit. It happened around 12:00. Now, at 16:00, the whole team went down to the camp 8300...

See route on

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

Day 32. May 18. The Expedition of the  7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Today, the team of Alexander Abramov moved to camp ABC at 6400m. Hence it is a hand... the foot of the mountain

Today the group under the management of Sergey Larin moved from camp 7800 to camp 8300. On the ridge today there was a heavy wind. But as usual,  in the evening the wind abates. We hope that tonight our friends could start to a summit bid. My team tomorrow plans to move from the camp at 6400 to the North Col where we will wait for the descent of the team of Sergey Larin from the summit. They are OK now,  physical conditions are excellent, in a group there is 6 Sherpas on three participants and one guide. And a lot of oxygen.

The route on

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alex Abramov from Tibet.

Day 31. May 17. Expedition the 7 Summits Club “Everest 2017”.

Today, our well-rested team (3 days we were recovering at the base camp) again came from the base camp towards the summit. The plan: to climb to the top on May 22th. We are now on the 5800 camp. Tomorrow – ABC. Now our second team, Sergey Larin with three members is in the camp at 7800 meters. Tomorrow they go to 8300 and  next night – assault.

Day... May 17, 2017
7 Summits Club Everest 2017 Expedition.
Yesterday, Lakpa Sherpa returned to Base Camp after summiting Everest for the 8th time! New World Record for women!
Our second team is starting today from the Base Camp. With summit day set for May 22nd! Yanush Khohansky is in this team. He is going for the record as well - 7 Summits in 129 days.
Our first team spent the night on North Col (7000 m or 23000 ft) and moving today into 7800 m Camp (25600 ft). Summit day is set for May 19.
Weather is great, condition of the rout is great. All team members are eager to go up! Battle up!

May 14. Yay! Hooray For The 7 Summits Club!!!! There is the first ascent on Everest in 2017!

This is the team of the 7 Summits Club:  Nima Dorji Sherpa (9th time on the top) and the Female World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, climbed Mount Everest 8th time!!! According to her story, the weather was terrible. Fixed ropes were inundated with 50 cm of snow and climbers had to pull out  it from under the snow. Near the summit there was a very strong wind and as a result Lhakpa has moderate frostbites on both cheeks.

Our second team under the leadership of Sergei Larin now  is preparing  to summit climb in the camp ABC 6400 m.

The group under the leadership of Alex Abramov  (first team) went from ABC  back  to the Base camp at 5100 m to recover and after 2 days again to start for the summit.

 The weather on Everest is now not good:  waist-deep snow and heavy wind. From the Nepalese side there is no one summit. From our side we have just a team of Sherpas who fixed rope to the top, a small team from India and our heroic deuce, headed by World record holder - Lhakpa Sherpa...

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alex Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 26. May 12.

The expedition  of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

Friends, we go up to the assault of Mount Everest in about an hour.

The first group is under the leadership of Alex Abramov. Daniil Briman, Eugeny Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Valery Tebiev, Janusz Kochanski. Here's the plan: today, May 12^th  - Middle Camp, 5800. Tomorrow, May 13^th  – camp ABC. The next day, 14^th of May – the North Col, 7000. Then May 15^th  - camp 7700. Then, May 16^th  – camp 8300. Then on 17th of May, the summit bid and descent to 6400. The second group under the leadership of Sergei Larin will go after us, a day later. Wish us Luck!

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alexa Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 24. May 10^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning, the Chinese called us to the feast of cleaning debris. There were a lot of journalists. Then all dispersed. And I happily went to the village Tashijong 4200m, to the other members of the expedition. I slept all day, because there is incredibly much oxygen  here .

Day 25. May 11^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning we decided to go back to the Base camp as the weather like getting better. And many of the expedition had moved to the ABC camp. And here we are at the Base camp. First we were reported that today the Sherpas fixed the ropes to the top. Probably tomorrow we will go up to Middle camp.

Alexander Abramov has sent photographs illustrating previous posts. It was the second acclimatization exit, during which the team climbed to the camp on the North Saddle (North Col) and spent a night there. Everything goes according to the plan, and today our team is celebrating the Victory Day in the base camp...