Press release of the 7 Summits Club expedition "Everest-Lhotse 2021

In Nepal, a new large expedition organized by the 7 Summits Club started a trekking route to the Everets base camp . Its name is "Everest-Lhotse 2021". For the 17th time, the goal of our expeditions is the highest peak in the world, Mount ... read more

In Nepal, a new large expedition organized by the 7 Summits Club started a trekking route to the Everets base camp . Its name is "Everest-Lhotse 2021". For the 17th time, the goal of our expeditions is the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest (Chomolungma, Sagarmatha), whose height is 8848 meters. For the president of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, this will be the 18th Everest climbing leadership. In terms of the quantity and quality of it , this is an achievement of the world order.

 

 

For the second time in history, the ascent will be made from the Southern, Nepalese side, along the Hillary-Tenzing route. The expedition started on April 11, and the summit assault is scheduled for the twentieth of May. Before that, there will be a cycle of acclimatization rotations, with an ascent on Lobuche Peak (6119m). For the participants of expedition, a comfortable base camp is prepared, providing all the conditions for a full rest. The route will be processed by the combined efforts of the expeditions  up to the summit. During the ascent, all participants and guides will use additional oxygen. Each participant will be assigned two high-altitude guides-porters, experienced Nepalese climbers.

 

 

 

 This year, for the first time, the team of the 7 Summits Club will climb the fourth highest peak in the World, Mount Lhotse (8516m). Acclimatization before the ascent and most of route coincides with the route of the Everest team. The final part is a straight, steep couloir, in which the ropes must be fixed. The head of the group, consisting mainly of climbers on Mount Everest, will be Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 

 

 

 

Team Everest

 

Alexander Abramov - leader, 10 Everest summits;

Artem Rostovtsev - guide, 2 Everest summits;

Sergey Larin - guide, doctor of the expedition, 6 Everest summits.

 

 

Participants:

Danielle Wolfson, Israel;

Ekaterina Kalabukhova;

Albina Kopteva;

Dmitry Livanov;

Anna Permilovskaya;

Vladimir Grigoriev;

Mikhail Gordin;

Eduard Kubatov, Kyrgyzstan;

Sherzod Kuchkarov, Uzbekistan;

Mikhail Mikheev;

Vadim Frolov;

Gergy Shulepov.

 

 

Lhotse Team

 

Lyudmila Korobeshko – team leader;

Vladimir Kotlyar - guide;

Alexey Lonchinsky - guide.

 

 

Participants:

Irina Zisman;

Daniil Briman;

Vasily Kernitsky;

Dmitry Parpiev;

Alexey Safonov;

Igor Smirnov;

Alexander Sobolenko;

Vasily Shakhnovsky.

 

 

 

The team of Nepalese Sherpas - 38 persons, high-altitude guides-porters, base camp staff. Head of Sherpa team Mingma Gelu Sherpa.

 

 

 

Photos of Nikolai Nersesov from the party of the 7 Summits Club dedicated to the departure of the Everest-Lhotse 2021 expedition

We offer you another selection of photos taken during "Everest Pre-Party 2021". The meeting of friends was dedicated to the departure of our big expedition " Everest+Lhotse 2021 " to Nepal. The author is a professional photographer Nikolai ... read more

We offer you another selection of photos taken during "Everest Pre-Party 2021". The meeting of friends was dedicated to the departure of our big expedition " Everest+Lhotse 2021 " to Nepal. The author is a professional photographer Nikolai Nersesov.

 We thank everyone who came to wish the climbers good luck, listen to the performances of our guides and participants of the expeditions and get to know them personally!

Thanks to each of you, the evening turned out to be very emotional!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest from the South for the first time. Video from the Everest-2009 expedition of the 7 Summits Club

About a week remains before the official start of the big expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest and Lhotse. For the second time in history, we will storm the highest peak in the World from the south and for the first time the ... read more

About a week remains before the official start of the big expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest and Lhotse. For the second time in history, we will storm the highest peak in the World from the south and for the first time the fourth-highest eight-thousand-meter peak. The first expedition of the 7 Summmits Club on Mount Everest from Nepal, along the Hillary – Tenzing route, took place in 2009. The team led by Alexander Abramov achieved great success - 12 people climbed to the top: 8 participants and 4 guides. There was no organized, professional video shooting during the expedition. However, something was taken down.

 

 

Video clips from the 7 Summits Club's 2009 Everest expedition. Now it can already be considered as historical.

 

 

Everest 2009. Victory Day at Everest Base Camp. Shooting of Abdulkhalim Olmezov. The holiday is celebrated together by the expedition of the 7 Summits Club, the team of Kazakhstan, Abdulkhalim Olmezov, who was a member of another team, and our Sherpas.

 

 

Everest-2009. Film by mountaineer from Moldova Andrey Karpenko

 

Photos from the party of the 7 Summits Club dedicated to the departure of Everest-Lhotse 2021 expedition

Yesterday, the 7 Summits Club hosted friends at our traditional party in the Sports Marathon Lecture Hall. The meeting was dedicated to the departure of our large expedition on Mount Everest and Lhotse. The hosts of the evening, the leaders ... read more

Yesterday, the 7 Summits Club hosted friends at our traditional party in the Sports Marathon Lecture Hall. The meeting was dedicated to the departure of our large expedition on Mount Everest and Lhotse. The hosts of the evening, the leaders of the company, and they are also the leaders of the expeditions, Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko warmly welcomed the audience. First of all, they told about the expedition and presented the participants of future ascents. Virtually, that is, on the screen, and live of those who were able to attend. The participants, in turn, very briefly shared what they wanted to convey to the public.

 

 

During the evening, the performances of famous climbers and participants of the 7 Summits Club expeditions were held in parallel with the communication in an informal atmosphere. The audience was addressed by: Viktor Volodin (with a story about the Russian eight-thousandth Lhotse Middle), Alexey Lonchinsky (about the Tamserku peak, for which he received the "The Golden Ice Axe"), Vladimir Kotlyar (who wandered a lot in the mountains of Nepal), Natalia Smirnova (about an unforgettable trip to Colombia). We should also note the parting words of cosmonaut and mountaineer Mikhail Kornienko. The Hero of Space handed Alexander Abramov the flag of the Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center for lifting it to the Himalayan peaks.

 

 

At the end, a traditional auction was held, which was fun and gave pleasure not only to the lucky winners.

 Thank you to everyone who attended our party! Thank you to those who wished success to our expedition!

In 10 days, the main part of the expedition will go to Nepal for very serious climbs. Follow our news!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 7 Summits Club congratulates our leader Alexander Abramov on his birthday!

Our Captain led the ship of the 7 Summits Club through the "world flood" of 2020, symbolically landing on the top of Mount Ararat. The storms have not yet subsided, but we believe in the course we are on. Because our leader is high ... read more

Our Captain led the ship of the 7 Summits Club through the "world flood" of 2020, symbolically landing on the top of Mount Ararat. The storms have not yet subsided, but we believe in the course we are on. Because our leader is high experienced pilot, full of energy and enthusiasm, able to draw the right conclusions from the results of their projects and numerous plans.

We wish Alexander long years of leadership in our company, new ideas and achievements, always be surrounded by beautiful people, health and excellent physical shape!

We very much hope that today's day of congratulations will end with a real holiday at a large table, surrounded by a pleasant company of close friends!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2016 the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Filming "High-altitude Gene". Ascent

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Mount Everest in 2016 can be called historic. After all, it was the main shooting of the future film "High-altitude Gene" which will become our monument for many years to come. The ascent was ... read more

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Mount Everest in 2016 can be called historic. After all, it was the main shooting of the future film "High-altitude Gene" which will become our monument for many years to come. The ascent was difficult, the conditions were difficult, and it was all that was required to create a decent plot of the film. And the main thing is that we coped, overcame everything and look like real heroes in the film…

 

 

 

From the chronicle of the expedition

06.05.2016 

The 7 Summits Club Everest Expedition successfully completed  the final acclimatization outing

The  Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came  down to rest in the base camp. Members  who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their  altitude records!

 Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb  to an altitude  of  about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down  in  the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.

 

 

From Press release:

 

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

 

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 

 List of participants:

 

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

 

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 

  Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

09.05.2016

 

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11.05.2016. Summit push was unsuccessful, the most nervous time for the expedition began. Patience and effort for the team!

 

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our impulse to move sharply upward was stopped by snow and the lack of a fixed ropes. But this, in some sense, the audit showed the willingness of absolutely all the participants for the assault at any moment.

We now have probably the most difficult period of the expedition.  First of all psychologically – it is waiting with so many ever-changing introductory. The weather forecast  changes daily (or more accurately, no end of snowfall). Normal and good window is not visible.

 Information from the Chinese changed about when they will finish fixing ropes to the summit. So there are many reasons  to be fidgety. We are encouraged by the fact that no one in our team use it. Everyone understands that patience– it is a  part of successful expedition.

Almost all participants had been ill, stopped to wash (to not get sick again;), everything getting thinner and tanned, we got used to each other.

Today we go to the Middle Camp to 5800. While as on the trip, but we'll see ...

 Yesterday, almost all members of the team went to the Old Monastery Rongbuk ...

 

 

13.05.2016. Alexander Abramov of the tent at the base camp - on the current situation on Everest

 

Lying in the Base Camp in a sleeping bag  it is easier to think than at 7000.

 What's happening? Yes, as usual, the Chinese pulled with a fixed ropes. The Weather is snowing. The route has more than 1 m of snow. Wind is weak. It does not blow away the snow.

 We rest in the lower camps. Yesterday there was a concert of guitar music and singing. Move for cinema. They took as participants go to bed. What else to move?

 At the Base Camp and other camps in the abstract there are several Ukrainian girls, each of whom wants to climb Mount Everest. But they have feeble chance. And girls are slender,  gaunt already by waiting. Our Tanya is full of strength and desire!

 In general, all are alive and healthy. And ready to storm.

 It is kaif - in the morning to lie in a tent and philosophize. ))

 

 

 

17.05.2016. Alexander Abramov from the ABC camp: nothing strange, usually we climbed Everest from 20 to 25 May

 

The Everest Team of the 7 Summits Club is in the ABC camp at an altitude of 6400 meters. All expedition members are healthy and ready for the ascent. As long as we have to wait. There is nothing strange happens - it happens every year. Chinese (Tibetan) climbers are going to go to complete the processing of the route, the expedition is expected in full combat readiness...

 

18.05.2016. The first group leaves the North Col. The weather is beautiful, everyone feels great!

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from the North Col of Everest. The weather is beautiful, our first team moves up. Today, according to the plan we do clinb to a height of 7600 meters. Tomorrow – on 8300,    and the day after tomorrow, on May 20, should be a summit bid. In our first team: Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Irena Kharazova, Liana Chabdarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz, Roma Reutov  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Eight people.  Everyone feels fine. The weather is beautiful, the prospects - excellent! Bye!

 

19.05.2016. Alexander Abramov from the slopes of Everest: The group begins to climb to the assault camp

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from a height of 7700 meters. Our Sherpas have already left the camp and go up. Our team will start at 11 am up to 8300. Luda Korobeshko and Liana Chabdarova will go .... a little earlier. With them Vladimir Kotlyar will go, our operator. That's the plan. Next message, I hope to send from 8300.  Weather wow, a strong wind blows. That is all, Bye!

 

20.05.2016. Information about summit  of Everest of the first group of the 7 Summits Club

 

Today at 5 a.m. on Nepal Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest. This is her 7th summit (the world record for the women). By 8 a.m., the first group  of  7 Summits Club expedition was standing on top of the world,  as follows:

Alexander Abramov (7th time at the top)

Lyudmila Korobeshko (3rd time at the top)

Alex and Luda - the world's first couple three times  climbed Mount Everest

Vladimir Kotlyar,

Roman Reutov,

Irena Kharazova,

Vlad Moroz,

Oleg Pimenov.

 

Liana Chabdarova was forced to stop climbing on 8500 due to a headache.

 Now all go down in order to reach to the evening camp ABC at 6400 ...

 

 

21.05.2016. Information about climbing Everest by the second group of 7 Summits Club: All at the top!

 

The second group is at the top:

Dennis Provalov and Igor Demyanenko (at 6:20),

Noel Hannah (at 6:45),

Lynn  Hannah,

Janusz Kochanski,

Sergej Larin and Tatiana Yalovchak!

 

Successful descent!

 

 Members of the first group safely descended to ABC camp yesterday and today go to base camp: Liana Chabdarova, Irena Hazarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko will be waiting for the descent of the second group.

 

Roman Reutov stopped at the North Col for making pictures, and now  he  plans to descend to base camp ..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 7 Summits Club wishes you a happy International Mountain Day!

Friends, love the mountains, go to the mountains! The 7 Summits Club is always ready to help you organize your mountain trips. Giving people happiness is our mission. If possible, leave the mountains behind clean! And in general, do ... read more

 Friends, love the mountains, go to the mountains! The 7 Summits Club is always ready to help you organize your mountain trips. Giving people happiness is our mission.

If possible, leave the mountains behind clean! And in general, do everything possible to make the mountains remain (become) the territory of freedom, the territory where you can meet with pristine nature, a place of joyful meeting with friends, a place where you want to return, where you want to bring your children, where everyone will be happy!

 

 

 

020 Theme: Mountain biodiversity

Mountain biodiversity is the theme of this year’s International Mountain Day, so let's celebrate their rich biodiversity, as well as address the threats they face.

Mountains loom large in some of the world’s most spectacular landscapes. Their unique topography, compressed climatic zones and isolation have created the conditions for a wide spectrum of life forms.

Biodiversity encompasses the variety of ecosystems, species and genetic resources, and mountains have many endemic varieties. The differentiated topography in terms of altitude, slope and exposure in mountains offers opportunities to grow a variety of high-value crops, horticulture, livestock and forest species.

For example, mountain pastoralists in Pakistan have a highly treasured livestock genetic resource pool with special traits bred into animals, such as disease resilience, which can help adaption to changing climate. Nearly 70% of mountain land is used for grazing and provides manure that enhances soil fertility. Livestock not only produces food items such as milk, butter and meat, but also valuable by-products, such as some of the most precious yarns, like cashmere wool.

However, climate change, unsustainable farming practices, commercial mining, logging, and poaching all exact a heavy toll on mountain biodiversity. In addition, land use and land cover change, and natural disasters, accelerate biodiversity loss and contribute to creating a fragile environment for mountain communities. Ecosystem degradation, loss of livelihoods and migration in mountains can lead to the abandonment of cultural practices and ancient traditions that have sustained biodiversity for generations.

The sustainable management of mountain biodiversity has been increasingly recognized as a global priority. Sustainable Development Goal 15, target four, is dedicated to the conservation of mountains’ biodiversity in consideration of its global relevance. Biodiversity in all ecosystems is in focus, as the United Nations has declared 2021 to 2030 the UN Decade on Ecosystem Restoration and governments prepare to negotiate the post-2020 global biodiversity framework for adoption this year at the 15th meeting of the Conference of the Parties (COP 15) to the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD).

Celebrate this International Day 2020 with your community and friends preparing an event or joining the conversation on social media using the hashtag #MountainsMatter. Pass on some of the key messages, or share about the biodiversity in the mountains near you, or a photo of your favorite mountain.

 

Mountains

The 7 Summits Club expedition on Mount Everest 2016. Shooting of the film "The High-Altitude Gene. Part 1

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest in 2016 can be called historical. After all, it hosted the main shooting of the future film "The High-Altitude Gene", which will become our presentation for many years to come. The ascent was ... read more

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest in 2016 can be called historical. After all, it hosted the main shooting of the future film "The High-Altitude Gene", which will become our presentation  for many years to come. The ascent was difficult, the conditions were severe, and there was everything that was required to create a decent story for film.

 

 

 

In a time when most Western companies have come to  Everest with  mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with  22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!

 

11th of April. Kathmandu

 

April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

 

 

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 

 

 

List of participants:

 

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

 

  1. Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
  2. Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
  3. Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
  4. Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
  5. Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
  6. Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
  7. Irena Kharazova. Russia.
  8. Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
  9. Lay Kwai Chung. China.
  10. Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

 

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

 

  1. Denis Provalov. Russia.
  2. Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 

 

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

 

  1. Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
  2. Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
  3. Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
  4. Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.

 

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

 

Planned record achievements:

 

Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

 

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

 

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

 

 

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

 

 

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

 

 

Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

 

  1. Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
  2. Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
  3. Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
  4. Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
  5. Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
  6. Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
  7. Elena Abramova. Russia.

 

 A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

 

  1. Christine Kozlova. Russia.
  2. Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
  3. Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.

  

During the expedition the group RD  studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.

 

 The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 

 

The team of the 7 Summits Club was invited to the gala evening, where the Prime Minister of Nepal honored the family of our Sirdar Mingma. They (he and two sisters) have three Guinness Recorda. In addition, Mingma  was eight times on Everest, and he is the first Sherpa on Mount Elbrus.

 

 The head of our expedition Alex Abramov was appointed to the company of champions and honorable citizens, who have made great contribution to the development of Nepal. And he said a good speech. We are proud of!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.

Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.

 

Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

April 16th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

pril 18th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

 

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

 

 

 

 

 

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

April 24th.   Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in  the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.

 

 The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.

 Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.

 In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.

 

April 25th Lyudmila Korobeshko:  the Puja ceremony  was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb  in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC

 

 

 

 

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.

 The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.

 Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.

 After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.

In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.

 

 

Today we have a day of complete rest,  we went down  1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and  dance on the ruins of castles ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 6th. The  Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came  down to rest in the base camp. Members  who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their  altitude records!

 Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb  to an altitude  of  about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down  in  the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.

 

 

From Press release:

 

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

 

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 

 List of participants:

 

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

 

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 

  Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

  

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

 Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2014. Start of the expedition. Acclimatization

The next expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest in 2014 was prepared in normal mode. As always, the leader was Alexander Abramov, and the Sirdar of the Sherpas was Mingma Gelu. Most of the members were from Russia. The company ... read more

 The next expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest in 2014 was prepared in normal mode. As always, the leader was Alexander Abramov, and the Sirdar of the Sherpas was Mingma Gelu. Most of the members were from Russia. The company was large and proved to be a successful combination of representatives of different cultures and ages. It was one of the most friendly teams in the history of our expeditions. The expedition consists of 15 climbers and 4 guides.

 A new Everest expedition on the 7 Summits Club is beginning. Alex came to Nepal with a guide of our Tent Peak expedition Vladimir Kotlyar. They were met by the 7 Summits Adventure director Mingma Gelu...

 

 

Our Everest Sherpas Team in the office of 7 Summits Adventure

 

 

Alex with his tennis coach...

 

The new store Red Fox was opened recently in Kathmandu. And Luda Korobeshko represents a major showcase...

 

 

Alex joined his wife (in fact, she is in Moscow) in the showcase window. Right on seen the royal palace...

 

 

 

Alex and Israfil Ashurly in the store Red Fox in Kathmandu...

 

 

Israfil with Firuz Dadashov (right) goes on Shisha Pangma. All purchases made, and nonsymbolic...

 

 

Sherpas expedition 7 Summits Club are preparing to travel to Everest...

 

 

 

Guides 7 Summits Club Sergei Larin and Dmitry Ermakov fly to Nepal...

 

 

Today - there was the official day of start of the 7 Summits Club expedition to Everest. The main part of members of expeditions arrived in Kathmandu today. Everything is going normally. Expedition is large, probably the second or third largest on both sides of Mount Everest, the biggest on the North side.

 

 

The expedition : 15 climbers and 4 guide.

 

 

And numerous group of Sherpas , led by Mingma Gelu.

 

 

Traditional reception at the Russian Embassy . With us Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashov from Azerbaijan who go on Shishapangma.

 

 

 

 

 

14.04 

Our expedition flew to Lhasa. The trek to Mount Everest begins.

 

  

Alex mer his friend Nima Tsering, the Ministr of Sport of Tibet, Everest summiter.

 

 Entertement in Lhasa.

 

15.04.2014

Almost all team at once...

 

Farewell to Lhasa....

 

 

 

Good morning Xigar!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bit windy....

 

20.04

Easter and puja were in one day - an amazing coincidence

Photos from the base camp of the 7 Summits Club expedition...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23.04

Alex: Because I had a bad cough and to prevent bronchitis, I went down for treatment at 1000 m below the base camp. To breathe "oxygen" and sleep in the warmth of the village of Old Tingri (altitude 4200m) .

There I suddenly met a team of Alpine Club of MAI (Moscow Aviation University), which just drives into the base camp Cho Oyu. They are 6 climbers led by Misha Volkov. The meeting was held at the high and even higher than the high level and ended warm parting. They went on their way, I stayed in my den.

Tomorrow I go up to the base camp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today, our team made the first acclimatization rotation to the Middle Camp, at 5800m. There was strong winds. It was very cold at night, but we survived. Everyone could feel like in the drama on Everest hero, 90 years before, attempts to climb Mallory and Irvine ...

 

Lake near Middle Camp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26.04

Hello! It is Alex Abramov from the Everest expedition, the camp ABC, at 6400 meters. There, of course, real fridge yet. Very cold, wind . Today we went here without acclimatization. Since in the South all the expedition were canceled, now we are the great common hope. Because in the north there are about 100 climbers, of which 19 people – from the team of 7 Summits Club. Now we are the biggest expedition on Everest .. .... Descend to the base camp, then we will see. Tomorrow our Sherpas start to set up a camp on the North Col, at 7000 meters ... Goodbye!

 

29.04

Alex Abramov from BC:

Today, 11 members left in Old Tingri to lick their wounds. And remaining in the base camp 8 members staged bath.

Sergei Larin - aka Doc, senior in the group, departing down. He gives instructions on how to behave in a civilized society and how to protect yourself from bird flu ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost all members of the group Everest climbers from 7 Summits Club took part in the competition. The event was held on the system "each with each" to 3 sets. Games stretched for almost the whole day. Chief judge of competitions was Ivona Zadarnovska-Wingert from Poland (by the friendly nickname "merry Pole").

By the end of the competition day by scoring we identified leaders who again played each other for prizes. As a result, Vladislav Lachkarev from Siberian Irkutsk won first place, second place went to Irishman Derek Mahon, and third place – for charming Muscovite Natalia Matusowa.

Evening at the banquet table, the winner was awarded a prize - a bottle of expensive wine. Vladislav first wanted to retire with this bottle in his tent, but decided to split the prize between all team members. As Vlad said during a toast : "Better to be first in the base camp than on Everest a second ! "

Now, the team members are trained for the next competition - are preparing in billiards.

 

 

 

 

02.05

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from a height of 6400 meters, from advanced base camp. Today the first team (8 people) is here . We had breakfast, now it will be held ice classes. We will train ascending on fixed ropes, because tomorrow is our first team goes to the North Col of Everest in order to spend the night at an altitude of 7000 meters. The second team of 11 people spent the night in the Middle camp , and now rises toward the ABC camp. Tonight should all meet here. All feel fine, acclimatization goes according to plan, that is, sufficiently smooth, soft acclimatization.

Tonight snowed 5-10 sm. Everything is covered in white snow, very beautiful.

Tomorrow Sherpa and Lama will hold the opening of the camp ABC – puja. I will be prayer, etc… A general, all is perfect, the weather is nice, the sun shines. Justafternoonsometimes snows . Andsoallgood. Goodbye!

 

04.05.

Yesterday the first half of our team spent a night at 7 thousand on the Saddle (North Col). The second team left there today. A cold wind blows. But we do not lose heart. Everything else, internet modem is broken. So that do not wait images in the coming days. And in general, all is well. The food is good, the people are nice..... Goodbye!

 

05.05.

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from the Advanced base camp at the height of 6400 meters, on Everest. Our second team descended from the North Col. Their overnight on 7000 was quite good. Unfortunately, we were forced to send down Konstantin Umrilov, he fell ill. Expedition proceeds. Tomorrow the first team again is going to go on the North Col. To spend the night and the next day to try to climb on 7500. After that the second team does the same heroic feat and by May 9th all members and guides have to gather in the base camp. On May 9 we plan a traditional party where we invite usually all base camp. Weather is so-so, again brings down snow. Now we had dinner and very quietly dispersed on our tents. All, good-bye!

 

06.05.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov. I 'm on the ice wall near the exit to the North Col. Beautiful weather, no wind, heat. I want to report that all is well with us. The first team is now climbing to the North Col , in order to go on to a height of 7500 meters, with the purpose of acclimatization. The second team is at an altitude of 6400 meters ... However, there are changes. Kostya Umrilov is down to the base camp. Also our “merry Pole” Ivona Zadarnovska is going now down to the base camp, she has a strong cough. And Vladimir Voronin from Ukraine is also descending , he has a fever. But I hope that after week at base camp, they should get better. The remaining members of the expedition all cheerful, happy, and ready to conquer Everest . It will take approximately 15 to 19 th of May, or it can be from 19 to 23 th May. That'stheinformationwehave. Hi!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10.05

Alex Abramov: Yesterday, the 9th of May the 7 Summits Club provided the party of friendship and acclimatization, devoted to the Victory Day.

It passed in a real warm atmosphere!!!

All members of different expeditions come to us. All, who were in the Base camp. We sang, and ate, danced and played together.

Now our team, all 19 people, went down the valley to rest for 2 nights.  Then we will  return to the base camp and proceed to the main part of our climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2013. The highest ever BASE jump and Summit

Valery Rozov group of 11 people was working in the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Among them, his constant companions for the most extreme expeditions: Alexander Ruchkin, Thomas Senf and Sergey Krasko. The group was acclimated, has ... read more

 Valery Rozov group of 11 people was working in the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Among them, his constant companions for the most extreme expeditions: Alexander Ruchkin, Thomas Senf and Sergey Krasko. The group was acclimated, has prepared the site for a touchdown and a shooting on North Rongbuk glacier. Time was short, and Valery decided to jump at the first opportunity, on May 5 of 2013.

And it was a complete success - the highest ever BASE jump!

  We are proud that this new achievement of the outstanding Russian athlete was made within the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alex Abramov.

 

      

 

Red Bull:

The Russian extreme sports star Valery Rozov has made the highest ever BASE jump after leaping off Mt Everest from an altitude of 7,220m. Rozov made the jump on May 5th after almost two years of planning and training.

The ascent began on the Chinese side on the famous north route. Rozov had selected a spot for his leap at an altitude of 7,220 meters. It took him four days to climb from base camp to the jumping location, assisted by a team of four Sherpas.

At precisely 2:30 p.m. local time on May 5th, with temperatures at -18 Celsius, he jumped. Because the cliff at the top was not very high, the initial moment in the rarified high altitude air was extremely precarious.

Initial moment the most critical

Rozov needed more time than usual in the thin air to transition from freefall to flying. But after that he flew for nearly a full minute at speeds of about 200 km/h down the north face before landing safely on the Rongbuk glacier (5,950m).

  

  

  

Thank you, Red Bull !

Pictures by Denis Provalov

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

  

 

Alex Abramov from Everest base camp: Today, May 8. The whole team  came down to the Base Camp. Today, 14 people - Valery Rozov and his team and a team of climbers on Changtse left for Kathmandu, and then to go home. Now, only 10 climbers on Everest and 4 guides were left in the camp.

Sherpas will continue to set the upper camps. Weather forecast is disappointing, it promises a hurricane for 11-12 and 14-15 of May.

So now we are getting ready to go down to 4200 to rest.

 

 

 

 

Alex Abramov:  After 3 days of rest down in the valley we are back in the base camp. It was  avery important part of expedition, we should  be fit. Many were hurt by a throat, there were other problems with health. Now all it seems in norm, all are ready to climb. The weather forecast promises daily decrease in a wind.

Sherpas are working to equip camp with all necessary. They promise that the first group will be able to go up to the North Col at May 16.

Now we were divided into 2 groups. The first will try to reach the top on May 19, the second – on 20th.

Here is our plan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the world there are many ideas to surprise mankind. Among them, it is possible to carry a record of difference of height of climbing up to mountains and descent down in a cave. Now it isn't known who is a leader in this category. A guide of the 7 Summits Club Denis Provalov is trying to become the first. His plan - 11000 meters was declared few years ago. On Everest he can reach 8848 meters. In the cave – Kruber's - Voronya Denis was already at a depth of 2140 meters. In the sum – 10988 meters. It will be impossible to climb higher than Everest. And it is possible to go down, probably, still more deeply. On 12 meters it is so precisely, because his colleagues already reached 2170 meters (world record).

Today Denis Provalov will start for a climb ofMount Everestfrom the base camp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 17.05.2013

Murad Ashurly: 7700 camp 25000 feet, very windy, now push to camp 8300 (27000 feet) few hours rest and go to summit 29000 feet. Will fight hard wind! I am with David Roeske from NYC here! He is brave man!

 

 

First group: Sergei Shevchenko, Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma.

 

 

18.05.2013

We are at 8300. It is OK. Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma. Wind is very strong. Start at midnight. Sergei Shevchenko went down from 8000 m. At 8100 m a corpse of a Sherpa lies. Probably the accident happened after hard climb on 15th of May...

 

 

 19.05.2013

Alex Abramov called from the summit of Everest

App. at 2:00 a.m. Moscow Time four members  (Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich), guide Alex Abramov and Sherpas has reached the summit !

 

20.05.2013

Today the second group of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. Three members: Sergey Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Vladimir Rychenko. Two guides: Noel Hanna (6th time) and Denis Provalov. At 11-30 Moscow time the group went by the camp 7700 m.

Altogether in this expedition Everest was climbed by seven members and three guides.

 

21.05.2013

 All members of the expedition who climbed the top of the World met at the ABC camp. It was the time for final dinner at Everest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On behalf of the members of the expedition representatives of Kazakhstan Konstantin Morozov and Yaroslav Sabyrbaev  from the company Heydelberg Tsement (Heidelberg Cement) we expressed gratitude to the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and personally for the excellent organization of the expedition and successful ascent of Mount Everest in 2013

 

 

 

 

 27.05.2013.

In Kathmandu the gala evening was waiting at Rum Doodle, with awarding diplomas. Then all members went home. As a result of the expedition the summit of Mount Everest was climbed by 10 Europeans and 9 Sherpas. A total of 19 people. And 3 members climbed the North Peak of Everest (Changtse).

We crossed the border. Denis Provalov and Vladimir Rychenko even managed to jump with badges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy International Alpinism Day!

Happy International Alpinism Day! The 7 Summits Club congratulates all mountain lovers on the International Alpinism Day! Let luck always accompany you, friends, in the mountains! We wish you always favorable weather, reliable friends, ... read more

Happy International Alpinism Day!

 The 7 Summits Club congratulates all mountain lovers on the International Alpinism Day! Let luck always accompany you, friends, in the mountains!  We wish you always favorable weather, reliable friends, convenient and light equipment, interesting and unforgettable routes! And join our groups! Stay with the 7 Summits Club!

 

 

 

 

Everest 2013/ Beginning of expedtion, acclimatization

This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in ... read more

26.03.2013.  In two days Alexander Abramov will fly to Nepal to Kathmandu to do on-site preparation for the great expedition of 7 Summits Club on Everest. This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in the preparation of the season.

 

In the expedition of 7 Summits Club 13 members will climb with permits for the summit of Everest, 4 guides will work with them, 7 pax have permits for Changtse, 2 – for North Col (1 guide), 6 persons have the right to go up to camp ABC.

Besides the main ascent, Alexander Abramov plans to re-try a new route: traverse Changtse - Everest.

Generally 7 Summits Club sends toNepalthree large groups: forIslandPeak, for MeruPeakand for the classic trekking to Everest base camp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

01.04.2013. Alex was met by our Nepal chief Mingma (7 Summits Adventure Co) and his friends Nima and Pemba.

 

This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in the preparation of the season.

In the expedition of 7 Summits Club 13 members will climb with permits for the summit of Everest, 4 guides will work with them, 7 pax have permits for Changtse, 2 – for North Col (1 guide), 6 persons have the right to go up to camp ABC.

Besides the main ascent, Alexander Abramov plans to re-try a new route: traverse Changtse - Everest.

 

07.04.2013. On Sunday in Nepal there is a general strike. The strike almost paralyzed the country's life. Maoists so begin preparation for the general elections to the constituent assembly of the country.

Meanwhile, we need to work. In Kathmandu, all expedition guides arrived: Sergei Larin, Denis Provalov and Noel Hanna. Preparation enters on the final stage.

 

 

 

 

  

10.04.2013. In the airport.

for the beginning of a briefing.

 

A speech of Alex.

 

 

 

 

 General  and official photo: 31 members and guides.

 

Dinner in the Royal Palace

 

13.04.2013

Thank you Nepal! We had busy days and wonderful evenings, we had fun in our beloved Kathmandu. But now we are landed in the capital of Tibet, at a new altitude. The journey to Everest begins.

 

 

Photos of Denis Provalov

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15.04.2013. 

One group (main) under leadership of Alex Abramov started from Lhasa. The second group with Noel Hanna (guides and sherpas) goes with a baggage via Nialam and Jangmu.

 

 

 

 

 

100 times! The 7 Summits Club congratulates Alexander Abramov on his hundredth ascent on Elbrus!

100 times! The 7 Summits Club congratulates Alexander Abramov on his hundredth ascent on Elbrus! On July 25, the President of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, climbed to the top of Mount Elbrus for the hundredth time. He carried out ... read more

 On July 25, the President of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, climbed to the top of Mount Elbrus for the hundredth time. He carried out the ascent together with his wife Lyudmila Korobeshko and a group called "4x4", which successfully implemented the program of blitz climb. A hundred or more times on the highest point of Europe and Russia have made by some local guides. But they were all professional guides of Elbrus. Our President can be called that, but it is still not his most important occupation. Alexander can be proud of this achievement! And we are proud with him.

 Our congratulations! We wish you to make the second hundred by your own centenary!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2012. Part 1

2012. April, 10. Tonight most of the 7 Summits Club expedition members took off from rainy Moscow in the direction of Nepal. According to the plan, tomorrow they should be solemnly met at the airport in Kathmandu. And on the 12th April we ... read more

2012. April, 8.  Alexander Abramov from Kathmandu, Expedition Everest - 2012. Today, Sergei Larin was due to arrive, but his flight was detained. He is still in Delhi. Yesterday 20 of our Sherpas had already left to the base camp. They will establish a base camp. And with them went our guide Noelle Hannah. Tomorrow the first members of the expedition began to arrive. This two Americans, Nathan Schneider and Jozeff Pratt ... And the next day all of our expedition arrives. It's about 25 people, all gathered in Kathmandu. The 12th we all fly to Lhasa, and from there to the base camp. Good-bye! We are all well.

 

 

With Valery Babanov

 

 

2012. April, 10.

Tonight most of the 7 Summits Club expedition members took off from rainy Moscow in the direction of Nepal. According to the plan, tomorrow they should be solemnly met at the airport in Kathmandu. And on the 12th April we have tickets to the capital city of Tibet Lhasa. From there it begins the path to the base camp of Mount Everest on motor vehicles. The first group of Sherpas from our expedition had already gone to arrange the base camp.

Guides and members of the expedition:

Permit Everest:

Guides (4):
Expedition leader Alexander Abramov (48), Sergey Bogomolov (61), Noel Hanna (Ireland, 45), guide and doctor Sergei Larin (51).

Members (16):
Visa Yusupov (60), Leila Albogachieva (42), Aznor Khadzhiev (40), Vladimir Korenkov (56), Magomed Aushev (59) Musa Hadziev (57) - a team of Ingushetia.

Ludmila Korobeshko (37), Ivan Dusharin (64), Maxim Shakirov (44) - Team "Alpari on the tops of the world."

Berdychowski Zygmunt Wladyslaw (Poland, 51), Schneider Nathaniel Raymond (U.S. 33), Pratt III Joseph Hyde (U.S. 56)
Igor Kadochin (42), Cyrille Muraviev (40), Fyodor Konyukhov (60), Vladimir Zaitsev (58).

Permit Changse (North Peak of Mount Everest) - 2.
Semen Deyak (50), Sergei Schekoldin (56).

Trekking Permit - 3.
Marian Surunchap (50), Machuca Tomochkanov (37), Maadyr-ool Khovalyg (64) – Tuva Republic Team

 

 

 

 

 

On April 10, after a sleepless night, our team finally landed in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Our layover in Delhi turned into a battle with the representatives from Jet Air, who, after rummaging through our luggage, decided that we were carrying dangerous cargo and told us that they couldn’t take our equipment any further. We told them about our expedition to Everest and explained how important that hardware is to us.

We finally got them to come around, but only after giving them our autographs and a couple of Alpari t-shirts (and showing their managers the site).

When we got into Kathmandu, we were met with a flurry of commotion, rickshaws and rain.

This evening we are going to unwind with a nice dinner. Tomorrow we’ll pack up our things. On April 12, we fly out to Lhasa, Tibet.

-Lyudmila Korobeshko

Five minutes after we got the message from our captain, Maxim called to describe the team’s emotional state. Not everything he told us is suitable for print, so we’ll leave you with a few choice excerpts: “unpleasant”, “over weight”, “couldn’t get any sleep”, “Dusharin has gingivitis”.

We hope a decent meal will help cheer you guys up.

 

 

  

 

 

2012. April, 12. 

Today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club visited the Potala, the former palace of the Dalai Lama. All members were delighted. We note a good attitude, hospitality of Tibetans.Everything in this country seems unusual. Even the World Map they have unusual ....

Alex Abramov and Mingma (Director 7 Summits Adventures) visited the STMA - Tibet Climbers Alliance, which organizes our Everest expedition. We met with the chairman of the STMA Mr. Chang. And the manager, whose name is Tsedron. The meeting was held in a friendly atmosphere.

 

  

 

 

 

 2012. April, 14.

The Everest expedition 7 Summits Club Everest meets the Easter holidays in the heart of Tibet. We spent a day in the city of Shigatse (3900m). It was very successful day. Nice sunny weather favored sightseeing tour, acclimatization, food intake and religious reflection on the eve of Easter. Next stop is Xegar (4200m).

 

 

  

   

 

 2012. April, 16.T oday there was a lot of things "at first"

First, we made the first serious acclimatization climb. Hooray! Shegar Dzong was climbed to the top (4800 m). This mountain name is translated as Fortress Xegar and it is very unusual. At its base there is an ancient Buddhist monastery school gelukpa - Xegar. And on the top we met a stupa and prayer flags. The last few tens of meters to go the top led by a very steep scree slope. And from the top we have a stunning view of the Himalayan mountain range and on ...

Yes, yes - this is the second "first" ... we saw Mount Everest. The majestic pyramid with a huge white flag. Probably a strong wind blows the snow off the slopes.

We hope that to the time of our climb the storm will be over.

Tomorrow we go to the base camp of Everest. That is, tomorrow we'll spend the night in 5100. With headaches of course, what would be a good for acclimatization.

 

 

 

 

 

A trip to Tibet inevitably ends up arriving at the base camp. As the most exciting moment in which we remember the first sight of Everest, from the pass. Here, each participant would like to part with the old life and makes a decisive step into the future.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puja ceremony was held this morning. It was a prayer for the success of the expedition. Wind was blowing to the top - up the hill. So, it is time to go up. Now cooks prepare our traditional borshch (beet-root soap). The first group goes up to an intermediate camp, and tomorrow to the Advance Base Camp at 6400m altitude. Today, Semion Deyak has to come back from Dzhangmu. We sent him down with symptoms of acute mountain sickness. We think it is all good now. Alex Abramov.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2010. Part 2. Summit

Today, May 12th, the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillmans Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 17 of May a weather "window" is expected ... read more

Today, May 12th, the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillman’s Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 – 17 of May a weather "window" is expected and our Sherpas plan to finish supply of goods and equipment to the camp at 8300m. And we (Alex and Mingma) probably go up to the Changtse in this brief moment of calm. Weather forecast promised after 22 May good conditions and we plan to climb the main Peak on these days ...

Alex Abramov

 

Thanks to Alex there was a meeting of generations: 13-year-old Jordan and Nicholay (a legend of Mount Everest, aa  www.jordanromero.com)

 

Changtse, South Ridge

 

Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours, the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although Northern ! "

The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the expedition continues.

 

 

 

 

May, 17. On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.

Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.

First group: guide Noel Hanna, Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry, James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Second group. Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.

Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.

 

 

 

 

May, 20. The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second group remains in the camp ABC. Waiting on Everest, tedious, anxious - it is a heavy need. The main thing is not to get sick, save a form. Wind is expected to become moderate already the next night. However, in the coming days are expected with snowfalls. Would it be a good window for climb?

 

 

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.

Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day.

 

 

 

May, 22.  The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), Unfortunately, there is first loss. For reasons of health, Pole Krzysztof Ginalsky went down, he has very bad cough. This morning 13 - year-old Jordan Romero reached the summit. We are in anxiety about our American friends and are waiting for them on their way down.

 

 

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., before getting dark. It looks as a new word in tactics of Everest climb. According to our calculations, our group should reach the top of Everest in the 4-30 - 5-00 a.m. local time. The second group came to the camp 7700 meters, everything is OK.

First group: guide Noel Hanna (Ireland), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky (all – Russia), Steve Berry (UK) , James Wilde (USA).

 

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

 

         

 

May, 24.  At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

 

 

 

 

May, 26. Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2010. International Everest Expedition of the Seven Summits Club. Part 1

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the ... read more

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…

 

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

List of members

Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)

Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)

Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)

James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)

Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)

Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)

Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)

Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Russia (1970)

Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)

Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)

Steven BERRY, UK (1955)

Guides

Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader

Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide

Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide

Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition

Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor

Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)

Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)

Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)

Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)

Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)

 

 

On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the leader of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and director of Asian Trekking - Dawa Steven Sherpa.

These competitions were designed as a team competition between expeditions. Therefore, the participation fee in the amount of $ 10 per person were paid no Sherpas, but by leaders of expeditions. 11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club and 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from the team of Jamie McGuinness took part in the competitions.

Competitions were held on speed, as pair races without time fixing (elimination system or knock-out system). As a result, 1-st place (as well as 3 and 4) got the Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club, second place went to a Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The winners received prize money provided by the organizers: $ 200 for 1-st place, 100 for second, 50 for 3rd and 50 for 4 th place.

After the competition, all participants ate dalbat and discussed the competition and their results.

Numerous spectators, journalists of the leading Nepali newspapers, legendary climbers were all delighted with this event. President of Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tsering offered to make it as an annual event and hold them between all the expeditions, departing on Everest.

 

Great Sherpa Apa (in green) is going for the 20 th climb the summit of Everest. At this time his mission is to place the ashes of Mt Everest conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary on the summit of the world's tallest mountain

 

April, 8

Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the remaining members team - all 16 people. They landed with a delay of 8 hours, committing an additional landing in India.

In the evening we had a "Familiarization briefing”, goes into a festive dinner. Alexander Abramov showed participants a slide show with their nearest future. Then the team members a little drunk, but happy, had gone to rest in the famous Hotel Yak and Yeti.

April, 9

In the morning we all went to the bus tour of Kathmandu, along with the best guide, whose name was Varvara. That evening there was the distribution of team jackets and shirts. Then we moved to the best restaurant in town named "Kaiser" ...

Tomorrow, April 10, according to the plan we purchase of personal equipment and packing goods. April 11, we must fly to Lhasa.

 

 For two days the team spent in the capital of Nepal. Kathmandu is changing, becoming more and more European city. Many Russian to meet. Team members visited all the main attractions, including the best restaurants.

April 11:  we said goodbye to the hotel and went to the airport.

 

 

During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and family are: “What are the hotels like?” and “What do you guys eat every day?” That said this entry is not about Everest but about the food we are eating and what we will plan to eat.

 The staple of the Nepali and Everest Climb diet is the famous Mo Mo. Mo Mos come in a variety of shapes and flavors and resemble what most people will recognize as a Spring Roll. The are Yak MoMos, Chicken MoMos, Mystery Meat MoMos, and, my favorite, Veg MoMos. MoMos can be steamed or fried. Any which way you have them, MoMos are great and have an even better name.

 The standard Everest breakfast has many variants (the Russians love to use this word), but there some standard building blocks. The building blocks are chapatti / pancakes, eggs, some form of meat, and bread. Sometimes there is porridge. The variety of egg styles changes every day. Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are scrambled, sometimes they are boiled.

 Dinner is also always very good. Fresh meat and vegetables are served every day. Sometimes we have pizza even. All in all from a food perspective we are well taken care of at the main camps. Above the North Col, we will be eating tea crackers, soup, chocolate, and drinking lots of hot tea and water--- as will most other at the high camps.

 Today the group went to Shegar and walked through the new and old parts of the village. We made our way up to the monastery. After a short visit to the monastery, the team proceeded up to the top of the hill. Everyone was in good form and made the top.

 Now we have free time until dinner at 8 and will begin tomorrow at 8 o’clock on the ride to base camp. The truck is filled with all sorts of goodies for base camp, and the team is anxious to get there.

 

Best regards from Shegar,

Jamie (photo in the middle)

On behalf of the 7 Summits Club team

 

The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move up to ABC in a few weeks.

 For some out there, Everest Base Camp is something very hard to comprehend. 5200 meters is higher than Mont Blanc, and the barometric pressure (oxygen level) is about 60% of that where most of us normally reside. Nights at base camp are warm in the group tents, and people think that with all the luxury provided on such an expedition that this is an easy undertaking. The truth is that we must all head back to our tents and sleep in sub zero temperatures for the next 40 days!

 

 The one great thing going for us is that we have Alex and his guides looking out for us. We have a good level of comfort. The food is well prepared and the corners are not cut here. There are two doctors with us and we are all being monitored closely. The program is well structured and the first rule here is all about safety.

 So what is base camp like to live in? Well, currently there are 100 people waiting and acclimatising. There is a LOT of gossip going around. The big talk this year is of the boy who wants to climb Everest. Some think it is a publicity stunt, some who know the family think it is pressure from the parents to pick up where they left off, and some really dont give a damn. In any case this is the story on the north side.

 During our time in base camp, we will go for short walks, eat, read books, watch movies and avoid getting ill. There will be much speculation as to what teams have the best acclimatisation schedule, when the weather window will come, and which team is strongest.

 Our base camp is pretty well up the Rongbuk, just below the morraine dam. This keeps us isolated well from both the fierce Everest wind as well as rumors. It also is a shorter walk up to IBC, which is a great benefit...

 In any case all is well and we are all settling in. I am sure that everyone in the team wants to thanks their friends and family for allowing them the opportunity to pursue this great dream. We are all thinking of you.

 Best regards from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

Jamie (on behalf of the 7 Summits Club Team)

Let’s hydrate the world!

James Wilde
Managing Director & Founder
Global H2OAbout the Foundation

 

 One day members of the expedition visited the monastery of Rongbuk. There our Dr. Igor Pokhvalin performed miracles with the help of simple tablets. And the other team members trained on the sacred rock. So we all deserve a miracle. And in the evening the miracle happened… at the base camp. Huge glowing pylon rose up between the tents. It was a miracle worthy deeds of the Gods. If it had happened a hundred years ago, all of Tibetian fell to the feet of Alexander Abramov. But even now, we feel that respect for our leader among Tibetans have risen.

 

 

 

 

3 May.

 

Alexander Abramov reports from the camp ABC. Our Everest expedition went to the ABC camp. Climbers successfully carried out an acclimatization ascent to the North Col. Guide Sergey Larin with three members Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov and Andrei Perepelkin stayed on an additional night at the North Col. After three nights of rest, we'll go for a second acclimatization ascent, this time to the height of 7700 m. All goes as planned, the weather is normal: with snow almost every day after lunch. And now it's snowing, in spite of the forecast.

 

ABC: when it is a good weather

 

6 May.

In recent days, there was a peak of bad weather. In the morning, on May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. We, four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin, Noel Hanna, after consultation, decided to turn the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises to bad weather and the forecast is justified.

Snow falls in the base camp too. We must wait till end of this attack of monsoon. Thus, the process of acclimatization is complete. We decided to organize rest for the team until May 9 holiday, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.

Climb North summit, we also plan to climb after May 9. We are now 16 climbers and 12 Sherpas. Everybody felt fine.

 

 

10 May.

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.

We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.

The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.

Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.

Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .

People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!

About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.

But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.

Best regards,

Alex Abramov

President of "7 Summits Club"

 

 

Everest 2009. First time from the South, Summit

In total, during the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov 12 people reached the Summit: 8 participants and 4 guides. We warmly congratulate all with this achievement! In the course of our 7 Summits Club Everest 2009 ... read more

May, 15.  We are proud to report that the entire team has successfully reached the summit yesterday shortly past midday! Team pictures were taken on the summit of .... Kala Patthar at 5550m. Since we all were stuck at the Base Camp for several days in a row because of bad weather, all felt that something needed to be accomplished, a short break from the camp had to be taken, and some work must be given to our muscles which got way too used to tent-ridden horisontal positions.

 

 

Hense, we took a 1.5 hr hike to Gorak Shep, the last permanent outpost of "civilization" before the Base Camp, and onto Kala Patthar, a nearby summit offering magnificent panorama of the Khumbu glacier, the Base Camp and the Everest Summit, together with the North Col and the south Col of the mountain. A few minutes after we summited a strong winds from the nearby Pumori "blew" us down to Gorak Shep where we had a little celebratory lunch.

 

 

Now that the weather has stabilized (knock on wood) we are finally bound for the ultimate summit push. Needless to say everybody is psyched and is busy checking the inventory of everything one might need on the mountain. We are scheduled to head up the Ice Fall before dawn tomorrow morning (May 16), with subsequent stops at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the way to the Summit. Provided everything runs smoothly, we will be on the mountain during the next 7-10 days.

 

May,16.

Today Seven Summits Club started summit attempt. Thay plan to climb to Summit of Everest 20 and 21 of May. 8 clients, 4 guides, 11 Sherpas and doctor went to Camp 1. It took 4 hours. The mood and feeling of all are excellent. The weather is good.

 

 

Tomorrow entire team will go to Camp 2.

 

 

 

 

May, 19.

Message from Alexander Abramov. A few hours ago, Abu Elmezov made a successful ascent to the top of Everest, becoming the first Balkars at the top of the world. At this point, he come down, have gone beyond the South summit.

 

 

Seven Summits Club warmly congratulates him on this achievement!

Alexander Abramov and the first group of 7 Summits Club’s expedition located in the South Col (8000m) and has less than 2 hours - 8 pm today (May 19) for Nepal (about 6 pm in Moscow) is planning to go to the summit.

The list of participants of the group:

 

Alexander Abramov (Russia) - head

Bobok Victor (Russia) - a guide

Khutorovsky Vladimir (Russia)

Karpenko, Andrew (Moldova)

Dmitry Nikitin (Russia)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Netherlands)

MARIN Michael James (U.S.)

 

We are waiting for further developments and to keep kids fists!

 

 

 

May, 20.

Today the first team of 7 Summits Club’s expedition successfully reached the summit.

List of summiters:

 

Alex ABRAMOV (Russia) – head

Viktor BOBOK (Russia) – guide

KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)

KARPENKO Andrey (Moldavia)

NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)

MARIN Michael James (USA)

 

KARPENKO Andrey is the first Moldavian reached the Everest summit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May, 21.

This morning the second group of 7 Summits Club in full force reached the Everest summit!

This group was led by legendary Russian climber Nicholay Cherhy.

These are the people who stood at the highest point of the planet:

 

SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)

HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)

HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)

Nikolay Cherny (Russia) - guide

Maksim Bogatirev (Russia) - guide

 

 

 

In total, during the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov 12 people reached the Summit: 8 participants and 4 guides.

 

We warmly congratulate all with this achievement!

 

In the course of our 7 Summits Club Everest 2009 expedition the following records were registered:

 - Andrey Karpenko became the first Moldavian to stand on top of Everest

 - Lynne Hanna and Noel Hanna became the first married couple from Ireland to get to the top of Everest together

 - Patrick Singh became the first Gyuanian born to climb Mount Everest

 - Nickolay Cherny for the second time became the oldest Russian on top of Everest

 

Today both groups are descending to Base Camp (5100m) for a couple of days rest and then will proceed to Lukla and Kathmandu.

 

Everest 2021 begins with Manaslu 2020. The 7 Summits Club invites you to an autumn expedition to the eightthousandth peak

From the point of view of science, from the point of view of practice and common sense, before attempting to climb the highest peak of the World, Everest, you need to get some experience of working at extreme heights. That is, simply put, ... read more

From the point of view of science, from the point of view of practice and common sense, before attempting to climb the highest peak of the World, Everest, you need to get some experience of working at extreme heights. That is, simply put, to test yourself by taking part in an expedition to a lower and simpler eight-thousander. This is not only a test of physical capabilities, but also gaining experience  working in the expedition team, just the practice of staying in conditions "close to combat". If you want to participate in the ascent of Mount Everest in 2021, the 7 Summits Club strongly recommends that you take part in our autumn expedition to the eighth highest peak in the World, Mount Manaslu (8156 m). In it, you will get to know the participants of the future expedition to Everest, guides and our irreplaceable partners Sherpas.

 

 

Program of ascent on Manaslu in the fall of 2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2009. The first expedition of the 7 Summits Club from the South. Approach and acclimatization

By the end of the 2007 Everest expedition, it was clear that the next year would be difficult. The Chinese clearly stated that only one team would go to the top from their side. The one that will carry the Olympic flame. Therefore, there ... read more

By the end of the 2007 Everest expedition, it was clear that the next year would be difficult. The Chinese clearly stated that only one team would go to the top from their side. The one that will carry the Olympic flame. Therefore, there was no other option but to prepare an expedition to Mount Everest from the South. However, closer to the start, it turned out that the Chinese were not limited to closing their side. They convinced the Nepalese that until the Olympic flame reaches the top, no one should be on the route from the South. As a result, it was announced that all work on preparing the route from the Nepalese side will begin after May 10. After learning about this, Alexander Abramov decided to postpone the expedition to the next year.

 Most of the failed 2008 expedition members were determined to go to Everest from the South. In addition, it became known that there was unrest in Tibet. And in General, the trust in Chinese bureaucrats was undermined. So the 2009 expedition was initially prepared from the South.

 

 

 March 20, the advance team of Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition started off for Katmandu. The team consists of: Abramov Alexander (leader), Nikolay Cherny (guide), Maxim Bogatiryov (guide). They arrived in Nepal before the whole group, to prepare everything necessary for the expedition. Then Nicholay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov will go to the Everest Base Camp for arrangement for the arrival of participants.

 

The expedition will take place from 20 March till 10 June 2009.

 

For Alexander Abramov (Captain of the Seven Summits Club and permanent Leader of Seven Summits Club Everest expeditions) it is the seventh Everest expedition. But this expedition is unique in many ways. It is the first time when Seven Summits Club conducts the expedition form the South (from Nepal). Secondly, this year major part of the group consists of the citizens of other countries.

 

The list of participants of the expedition:

 

KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)

CARPENCO Andrey (Moldavia)

NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)

Mr Philippe Burlet (France)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)

MARIN Michael James (USA)

CRELLIN John Anthony (Great Britain)

SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)

HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)

HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)

 

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

 

Guides:

 

Nikolay Cherny (Russia)

Maksim Bogatirev (Russia)

Viktor Bobok (Russia)

 

Doctor and base camp manager:

Avaz Makthalikov

 

***

4 April. Alex Abramov from Kathmandu:

 Yesterday all participants of the expedition came to Kathmandu. There is the list of participants of the expedition:

 

Guides

Russia Abramov Alexander

Russia Bogatyrev Maxim

Russia BOBOK Victor

Russia CHERNYY Nikolay

 

Dr. Uzbekistan Matkhalikov Avazkhon

 

Participants

Russia KHUTOROVSKIY Vladimir

Moldova CARPENCO Andrei

Russia NIKITIN Dmitry

France Mr Philippe Burlet

Dutch RAVENSTIJN Erik

US MARIN Michael James

UK CRELLIN John Anthony

Canada SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine

UK HANNA Lynne

Irish HANNA Noel

 

4 guides + 10 members + 11 Sherpas + 4 cooks and 2 assistants cook

Total 32

 At this moment the whole expedition’s cargo has already arrived at the Everest Base camp. 9 Sherpas and 3 cooks came to the Base camp too. We are working to clear areas in the Khumbu(5100m), and the installation of tents. We have TV and DVD with Karaoke in the Base camp. We will be singing "Katyusha" to drum up all women`s expedition. In connection with the homeland, we have brought and set up satellite modem for the Internet.

 

This is something that is already in the mountains ...

 Yesterday it was a meeting in Kathmandu in Nepal`s Tourism Ministry, where we handed to Permit and introduced to Lisan officer, which should help us to organize the expedition.

 We hope fly to Luklu on April 4. Weather in Luklu is bad, and 2 days did not fly airplanes. A huge queue established of people and goods. We are trying to resolve this problem.

 

 

***

5 April

Yesterday we went to the airport in order to fly to Lukla. We passed the queue other expeditions, draggled our trunks, got into a small plane. After 15 minutes we were asked to go out and wait, because the weather in Lukla became bad. But five minutes later we again went to take off. Weather deteriorated completely, and the plane turned over Lukla, after 20 minutes we were back in Kathmandu. Now we find ourselves at the end of the queue. 

At that time, two guides 7 Summits Club Nikolay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov and Sherpas establish a Base camp. Already they made a dining room, mess-room with TV, karaoke, and Internet and a washhouse. 

Here are some photos sent from Khumbu Glacier.

9 April The team reached Namche Basar by helicopter

 

 

***

13 April

Today all the participants of the Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov arrived to the Base Camp. They had a holiday dinner on this subject. During the lunch Alex Abramov announced the program for the following days. In the next two days, participants will have a rest, check the equipment and training on the ice. And then they will go to the ABC (6400m). 

 

 

***

 15 April.

 

Buddhist puja ceremony this morning officially opened our camp and the blessing was given to the climb, the climbers and climbing gear. Now buddhist prayer flags criss-cross the camp. 

In the afternoon the climbing team made its first incursion to Khumbu Ice Fall. The roundtrip took 3 hours during which the equipment was checked, and tested. We crossed crevasses, two of them with the help of alluminium ladders. Today`s short climb offered spectacular panorama of the basecamp and surrounding peaks.

 

***

 

19 April. The entire team returned to the base camp today after successfull acclimatization trip to Camp 1 at 6000m. 

Crossing Khumbu Icefall was the first serious exercise of the trip. The Icefall is constantly moving, so we had to leave early before the sun started to melt the ice formations, some of which reach the hight of a 5-6 storey building. The reward at the end of the trip was an awesome view of Mt Everest (which can`t be seen from the Base Camp), the Western Cwm, which we will have to cross during the climb, and the peaks of Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, Pumori and Nuptse. We stayed overnight at Camp 1. 

Just prior to heading back down the Icefall at 5:30 am we learned that there was an ice avalanche overnight, so half of our trip down the Fall took place accross the terrain that was changed beyond recognition from the previous day. Here near Mt Everest one is truly confronted face to face with the nature`s awesome might.

 

***

 

22 April. As the days are getting longer and the Sun is becoming warmer we are getting ready to head up for our second acclimatization trip tomorrow. Given earlier sunrise we are planning for a 5 am start up the Icefall. We will spend next two nights in Camp 1 (6000m)and Camp 2 (6400m) before heading back to Base Camp on Saturday. 

Today is the rest day.

 

***

 

27 April.

It is a rest day at the Base Camp after going to Camp 2 - Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Our ABC is located right at the foot of Mt. Everest`s Western wall and overlooks other camps at the location. From ABC one looks straight at Western Cwm - a giant amphitheater made up by the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse wall. From ABC we could also see our future route climbing Lhotse face, crossing the site of Camp 3 (7300m) and continuing across the Yelow band (a distinct layer of light rock crossing the black wall from left to right). The route then crosses Geneva Spur (7600m) and leads onto South Col - a saddle between Everest and Lhotse at roughly 8000m, and the site of our future Camp 4, the summit camp. 

It was windy at times during the trip, but overall everybody made it fine through this acclimatization trip and through spending a night at Camp 1 and another at ABC. Our time of crossing Khumbu Ice Fall was significantly better - about half of the time it took us the first time around. Today we learned that high winds raked Western Cwm and some of the tents at ABC got flattened by it, so the camp has to be partially reconstructed in the coming days. 

We plan our next climb after several days` rest, probably towards the second half of the week of April 27.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

ABC






















28 April.

A couple of days ago the entire group bid farewell to Phillipe Bourlet, who left the climb for his native Grenoble, France. For further climbs two sub-groups were formed:

Team One: Andrei, Vladimir, Dmitry, Michael and Eric

Team Two: Lynn, Noel, Patric and John.

Team One is heading up the Ice Fall tomorrow, April 29, for the final acclimatization trip that will go through C1 and ABC to Camp 3 (7300m) and on to Geneva Spur (7800m). Team two will take the same route one day later. Both teams will attempt the entire route without use of supplemental oxygen. 

The wind has died overnight and it is a beautiful sunny and hot day at the Base Camp. Reports from ABC are that all the supplimentary hardware and other material has been brought up to the camp. Thus, the fly-away kitchen tent, toilet tent (with the barrell?), and collapsed dining tent and member tents should all be restored by the time Team One reaches ABC on April 30. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.

 

8 May. 

While most participants of Everest expeditions rest and gain strength in the woods, Seven Summits Club`s guides and other members of the expedition did not lose time for nothing.

Base Camp






















RAVENSTIJN Erik























MARIN Michael James





























Seven Summits Club`s guide Nikolay Chernyi masters technological innovation









 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 9, Seven Summits Club expedition celebrated Victory Day in the Base camp of Everest. Preparations for the festive evening took the entire day. Club Guides Max Bogatyryov and Viktor Bobok set generator and karaoke. Sherpas prepared food and drink. 

But suddenly the holiday was threatened. And the Seven Summit Club’s expedition almost lost its leader. In anticipation of the celebration of the Victory Day, Alexander Abramov came round the base camp, inviting guests from other expeditions. On the road from the Alpine Ascents BC to Seven Summits Club’s BC Alex fell into the crevasse filled with water. Only the cap remained dry. He tried to communicate with his guides on the radio, but radio got wet and did not work. "It is insulting to die at the base camp" - thought Alex and with great difficulty got out of the crack. He squeezed out thermal underwear and puff. Abramov had to drink 200 grams of vodka, and drink after 100 grams of whiskey to the end that didn’t get ill. 

Just an hour later started festive evening devoted to the Victory Day. The evening was held at a high level. There were many distinguished guests: guides of Russell Bruise, Karri Kobler, Dawa Stiven and his customers, Kazakh expedition lead by Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky, Boris Korshunov and Abu Elmezov. 

This evening completed a week of rest. Seven Summits Club expedition on Everest entered to the final stage. In the coming days, participants will be on the ascent.

Max and generator
























Set karaoke






























Alex Abramov and Viktor Bobok






























Party

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everest 2007. The 7 Summits Club Expedition. Part 1.

A new expedition to Everest from the 7 Summits-Club under the leadership of Alex Abramov started March, 21. This year our team will be include 17 climbers, the head, four guides and a doctor. 23 persons alltogher. Approximately as much ... read more

A new expedition to Everest from the 7 Summits-Club  under the leadership of Alex Abramov started March, 21. This year our team will be include 17 climbers, the head, four guides and a doctor. 23 persons alltogher. Approximately as much will be the attendants, including group of high-altitude porters led by our favourite sirdar Mingma.

  The main group takes off March, 28. This time a way of expedition in the base camp will pass through Lhasa, capital of Tibet where participants of expedition will be delivered by plane from Katmandu. This variant is more expensive, but saves forces and allows to avoid possible troubles on road. Plus to everything, all members dream to visit the capital of Tibet.

 The route of an ascent - classic, system of an arrangement and maintenance of camps will be similar last year`s. The current information will be transferred by the satellite phone, in particular to the Risk.ru site.

 The most part of members sets as the purpose to climb Mount Everest, but there are persons which have limited itself to rise on North Col. Maxim Shakirov will carry an Olympic flag of the city of Sochi (Olympic Games 2014) to the summit. And in same time the Chinese climbers will work on the slopes. They prepare for realization in 2008 of relay race of Olympic fire. So two flags can meet in the area of summit.

 

The list of participants of expeditiont:

 - John Delaney, Ireland

- Maxim Shakirov, Russia

- Israfil Ashurly, Russia - Azerbaijan

- Andrey Zajtsev, Russia

- Andrey Ivanov, Russia

- Sergey Dashkevich, Russia

- Sergey Batura, Russia

- Hannah Shields, British

- William Hazelton Tyler III, USA

- Curt Myers, USA

- Dirk Feige, German

- Armenak Tigranian, Russia

- Dmitry Zjuz`, Ukraine

- Armen Rshtuni, Russia

- Bruce Matthews, New Zealand

- Rafael Nagapetianz, Russia

- Alexander Kibalko, Russia

 

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

 

Guides:

- Sergey Kofanov, Russia

- Alexander Bichenko, Russia

- Sergey Larin, Russia

- Lyudmila Korobeshko, Russia

 

Doctor and base camp manager:

Andrey Selivanov.

 

 

 

 

 

 

April, 4. 

Yesterday, April, 3 we have left hospitable Nepal and in one and a half hour we have landed at the airport of Lhasa. Height 3600, we have felt it at once. On words of Hanna, which was here 14 years ago, the capital of Tibet has transformed beyond recognition. Lhasa now is modern City with wide prospectuses, supermarkets… But if to deviate in lateral narrow streets - as at once you get in completely other world. Here there are old Tibetan small houses painted in five colors with flat roofs, monks and Tibetians in national clothes, in each second court yard- Temple or Buddhist stupas.

Today, since morning we have visited the main relic of Tibet - Potala, a palace of Dalai Lama with its 13 floors and 999 rooms. On the top floor one Chinese woman has felt very badly. The doctor by a trade of Hanna Shields has come to the aid and has rescued her. The altitude is felt, in every room of our hotel there are artificial oxygen. 

At this time Alexander Abramov bought yoghurts, beers, milk and - the most important - a tennis table for base camp!!

In the evening we have gone to the Tibetan restaurant with evening show. Show was pleasant unexpectedness: on a stage in dance and with songs was the Tibetan rural life is reproduced in details. Even yaks were on a stage. All this - under monotonous fight of drums. And toward the end all people were united in joint dance around of tables. 

While we enjoyed the Tibetan delicacies, Abramov battled at office China Mobile. Local agents very badly understand English, but all necessary SIM-cards for base camp were bought. lex has won!

Tomorrow we leave in Shigatse (3900). And therefrom we shall go in Shigar. Under the plan to the evening April,8 should reach the base camp. 

Korobeshko Lyudmila from Lhasa, Tibet.

 

 

 

 

Yesterday, April, 8 the main group (14 person + Lyudmila Korobeshko) has arrived to the Base Camp at height 5200 m. We were met by Sergey Kofanov, Alexander Bichenko, Andrey Selivanov, which here already about one week here. They had time to prepare all camp with the maximal comfort for our arrival. Here was also Alexander Abramov, he has arrived in BC day prior to us that to be convinced of readiness of camp.

 In the evening we have sat behind dinner in honour of the official beginning of a sports stage of expedition. Before it we had time to put a special tent ("sports hall") with a tennis table inside and even have carried out some matches.

 The first night on 5200 m was disturbing. The guide Sergey Kofanov unexpectedly fall severely ill. Early in the morning, doctor Andrey Selivanov has gone together with Sergey on a jeep in Xegatse, to the regional hospital. There is a suspicion on appendicitis though it is possible, that this simply strong food poisoning. His friend Armen Rshtuni accompany them. If it will be necessary he will stay with Sergey, and doctor Andrey Selivanov should return in BC. Today in the morning April, 9 Armenak Tigranian has left our expedition. To regret, he has fallen a victim to mountain illness. Anything dangerous. Soon he should arrive to Moscow healthy, though tired.

 Other members of expedition feel like more or less normally: today since morning we have taken a walk down to Old Rongbuk. The day after tomorrow we leave up to 5800 m - Intermediate Camp - and there we spend a night. Then we shall go downwards and after rest we shall go on 6400 m – to .

 

From Bruce (www.7summits.com)

 …We arrived at Base Camp yesterday at around lunch time...lunch consisted of mushroom soup, grilled chicken and cold slaw and fruit salad. There are always cases of Coke, Sprite and Beer available as well as pringle chips, biscuits fruit juices and naan bread. Supper was much the same in that it was a three course meal. Most members of the expedition who have done other climbs are amazed at the fare and accommodation etc. Unfortunately, our pool tabe met it`s demise on one of the passes and is now shattered. However, the ping pong table is set up in its own tent next to the entertainment tent which has two tv`s, games, dart board etc!

 Base Camp has been described by some as bleak...and then by those returning to recover from higher, as paradise! The camp is situated at the end of the Central Rongbuk glacier and runs North from that point. Everest is behind you and the camp slopes downhill. As it is a morain, it is like being on a large dried river bed with mostly stones and sand and very few big rocks. If you can visualize standing up at 7Summits-Club camp, up against the high end of a rocky glacier, the base camp runs down the west boundary for approx 1/3 kilometers and narrows a bit at the bottom. The North boundary and South boundary are roughly 500 meters each and the east boundary about 1 kilometer. It is large abd there are presently 13 different expeditions. I walked the boundary yesterday and that was 3 kilometers and took an hour...this indicates how slowly one needs to move her to adapt….

 From Bill (www.7summits.com)

 Me and a guy named Arman climbed up the back side of the monastery up to about 4100m for good excercise. But I was glad to move on from there yesterday to here. the hotel was the same as I remember. Cold at night. On the way Alex bought a pool table for basecamp, A POOL TABLE!! I think that is a first for Everest But it broke on the trip. But good try. The road took us over a 5200m pass, where we stopped for a few minutes and took in the sights. We did get to see Everest off in the distance at a point on the road, and she was looking formidable.

 Tomorrow we head up to base camp, to settle in and start the actual expedition. this year there are over 30 teams on the north side alone, including a huge Chinese team of 120 summit permits. We all are worried that we will get trapped behind some of these other expeditions and have to turn back because they are too slow. But only time will tell.

 

April, 18 2007 Everest BC from the North, 5200.

 Yesterday we have gone down from (Advanced Base Camp), 6400. Upwards up to Intermediate camp we went on the average 4 hours, up to Advanced - 4,5 hours. In the evening April, 16 after arrival in we have left under a wall of North Col. Sherpas have already fixed cords, we saw group of 4 person on the wall. In the same evening Maxud Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov called on us. They plan go up to the North Col or is even higher in the first exit.

 Next day April, 17 all of us have gone down in base camp to beer, to voblas, to a bath and club where it is possible to look films and to work in internet.

 In the morning April, 18 Armen Rshtuni and Bruce Matthews have left our expedition. Both on family circumstances, not having finished their program "Ascent on North Col".

 Since morning guide Sergey Larin with his mini-team Rafael Nagapetianz and Alexander Kibalko (the well-known skater) have left on the first acclimatization exit. In some hours after them guide Sergey Kofanov has gone upwards. He should finish installation - medical tent, to complete electrification. Then he will help ours Sherpas in upholding our interests on North Col and in high-altitude camps. Our Sherpas one week ago have noted by tags places for our tents in all camps above 6400. But young Sherpas from other expeditions have ignored our tags. It will be necessary to find mutual understanding.

 For all others today was a day of rest – take a bath, play tennis etc. And we drive on a motorcycle which Alex Abramov has hired for the period of expedition.

 The day after tomorrow - we leave upward. We plan to reach the Saddle and to spend a night on 7000.

 

April, 30 2007 From Base Camp Everest from the North, 5200.

 

Now at 11 a.m. over China. Now we wait with excitement of a radio communication with xut Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov. Yesterday April, 29 in 10 p.m. they have left from 7900 on the summit of Everest. They go without oxygen, without using fix-ropes. For last 3 weeks together we have become close friends, and guys became practically a part of our collective.

 Now the most part of our team goes down on rest from . April, 28 we All have left on the final stage of acclimatization from on North Col (7050). But before of steep part Ludmila Korobeshko and Andrey Zajtsev were forced to turn back on a state of health. This very day we have gone down on 5800. By the way, here in the Middle Camp we have met the interesting Austrian who is going to go solo without oxygen on Hornbein couloir.

 Other group under A.Abramova`s management, with S.Kofanov and A.Bichenko has successfully reached the North Col. After night there, they has left on acclimatization up to 7700 m. At this time Maxud and Vasia have gone on 7900 to establish assault camp. About 7 p.m. they have informed by radio and confirmed the intentions in 10 p.m. to leave on storm. Today in the morning our Sherpas saw small lamps above 8300.

 All day April, 29 I, Andrey Zajtsev and Sergey Larin sat at a portable radio set. We listened, as Sasha Abramov drove all up to the mark of 7700 meters. They have reached it almost all and this very day they have gone down in . Today we are waiting for all in , 5200. Now under the plan we will have a week of rest before deciding attempt.

 

 

Seems like the first Everest summit this season has just taken place! One our ago, at 6 p.m. Chinese time, Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have called on the radio from the summit of Everest ! The two climbers launched a summit push from 7,900m last night at 10 p.m. They have topped-out with no supplementary O2 or Sherpa support.

Maxut and Vassily had already launched a summit push last week, which was twarted by bad weather conditions at the North Col. By Friday they were back in ABC — but not for long. 

he Kazakhs reached the summit at approximately the same time HiMex`s Sherpas fixed ropes on the upper sections of the route. Maxut and Vassily are currently descending, hoping to go down as low as possible and stop by nightfall. "At the worst case, they will sleep at 8,300m.
The weather conditions are currently good, with no strong wind. 

 

Bill Tyler: back from NC and first 2007 summits on Everest (brief variant)

 

The trek up to ABC sucked as usual, and I was glad that my times improved dramatically. SO I felt that maybe there is something to training before a trip. We spent 3 days at ABC, 1 due to weather. I felt fine the whole time, with little headaches and short of breath to really make life interesting. It took a few days for mr to sleep longer than 3 hours. We got snow and wind, but I was fine. Warm as heck to say the least. 

The north col is quite steep. Talking with the sherpas and other who have been there last year indicate that it is much steeper than previous years. Nice thing is that is makes it a short distance to go. But it is steep! up to 95degrees in several places. I got on the lines and it took me about 5.5 hours. It was a struggle. Basically you pull yourself up a step, then rest, the do it again, all the while dealing with the wind, snow, and other climbers. There are a lot this year. It just seemed to go on forever. 

I was really glad to finally make the top and see tents. The whole of the tent site is on top of a serac, which someday is going to come crashing down. Lets pray not this year! Again I had no issues with altitude, just a dehydration headache… 

So after the first time at the Col, we spent 2 days resting in ABC. Played a lot of chess and tried to sleep as much as I could!

So I left off after the first time up the north Col. Just as a point of reference, The north col is a bridge between the main mass of Everest, and the North summit of the mountain, called Changste (I will make sure that is the right name for that part of the mountain). This "bridge" allows the climbers to set up a camp to continue to climb. The flank of Everest has no place to camp really, although it has been climbed before. 

After the night at the north col, we dropped down the 400m face by rappelling and walking using the ropes fixed in place. It took 30 mins to go down the face that took 5.5hrs the day before. Sleeping at 7000m really means that you try to find a comfortable spot and then relax enough to let the min drift. There is no deep sleeping. Maybe for some, but no one I know! Sherpas maybe. 

The next three days we spent just resting at ABC. I mean resting. Lay in the tent, look at the roof, roll over and stare at the walls. Eat as much as you can, although there really is no appetite at this altitude either (6400m). If you move and forget that you are this high, You spent a few minutes gasping to regain control. I got pretty good at moving slowly. Ever time I got out of my tent though, I would gasp away. 

So generally the days pass pretty fast, even though we did no do much at all. But I sure could not wait until the next trip up the ropes. I am really glad that the team decided to get all of the acclimatization done at once, instead of retuning to BC and then going back to the north col over that long approach. I hate that! 

So after the three days, up to the north col we went again. I must admit the second time was easier. Maybe because of the mind games, but it was not so bad. I beat my time a little and felt pretty good. But, I got the cough!!! Nothing like last year, where I was coughing up lung chunks, but nonetheless I got the high altitude cough. That night, we mashed down the floor to give us a smoother surface, which helped. One of the reasons that I slept so bad the previous time was because the floor was so bad the three of us ended up with sore backs and spooning on top of each other the whole night. No one could move or turn without disrupting the other two. 

Again I did not sleep a wink. The coughing and thin air just make the night one long trial or endurance.

Up in the morning to head up the long snow ramp to 7500m. at this point, one is actually on the mountain. I felt strong, but a real problem cropped up. 

We started out in our down suits, and the heat was so bad I felt like I was in a hot sauna. No wind, which is very unusual. The down suits are to help us with the wind, but there has got to be some wind!!! I was sweating my brains out, which is exactly what I do not want. I prefer to move as cold as I can stand it, to keep fluids from sweating out. 

The problem that I have is my feet were frozen. I have the best boots money can buy for this sort of thing, but my feet were like lumps of ice. I stopped after about an hour to tell the guides about it and I felt I should go down. I felt strong and had no altitude issues, but I did not want to lose anything. I waited for about 45 mins for Alex to come by. We talked about it and actually called a doctor (we have a new doctor now) and discussed it by radio. At first he thought it was due to a bad heart, but after the talk decided it was due to cold boots. So Alex got me up and moving higher. 

I moved to 7250m and felt really good. I knew that I could have caught up with the team struggling ahead of me. I actually was only one rope length away from the last team members I was moving so fast. But my feet were lumps of ice. I stopped and noticed that one of the team was on his way down. So I waited and Curt came down due to stomach problems. At this point, I told Alex I was going down. I had no issue with it because it was to prevent any damage to my feet. I felt good about going further because I was physically feeling strong, but I needed to figure out what was going on with my feet. 

So we two headed down to the north col, taking out time. Once we got there, we then packed up and headed down to ABC. The ropes were no problem, and we got down to ABC in 1.5hrs. So we were doing well. My feet started to warm up once we got to crampon point, about 6500m. So I am wondering if maybe there is an altitude issue with my feet. 

My personal no oxygen high point is 7250m, I think it is ok. Next time I am even near there, I will be on ox and it wont matter.

 

Today we have celebrated Day of the Victory. 12 participants of travel on motobikes (a route Lhasa - Katmandu) have risen to us in the base camp. They arrived yesterday in Rongbuk, and today came to us to dinner. Dmitry Rysin and Igor Kulishov (heads of expedition) told us about their adventures on road from Lhasa. Some accidents have taken place, basically because of collision with animals. Anybody from bikers has not suffered seriously. They were forced to leave their motorcycles in Rongbuk - any type of transport, except for horses and special jeeps could go through the Chinese check-point .

 

A festive lunch was perfect, with toasts for the Victory, for Mountain, for "mad people" (i.e. people such as climbers and motorcyclists), all team was photographed at finish. Then guys have left to Rongbuk camp.

 

For the evening dinner we have called for Russell, Jamie, Ronnie Muhl - the member of our last year`s expedition from South Africa. Russell has brought a message that this day 17 Chinese have reached the Everest summit. Though the strong wind complicated an ascent. Ronnie, Jamie and Mr. Chvan (the owner of company " run-trek ") came a bit later. There were again toasts for the Victory, songs about war and peace. And when it darkened, we have arranged fireworks in honour of a holiday.

 

May, 10 - day of rest and preparation. May, 11 all team goes upward. First in , then - as soon as weather will allow - upward by two groups. Today after breakfast, doctor Sergey Larin has made medical survey of all participants who have come back from rest. All is normal, everyone can go on an ascent.