7 SuperMountains

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Greetings from Patagonia! It's sad to report some news, but I have to. Our weather "window" collapsed and only a "window pane" remained. It happened on the eve of the exit, when the last preparations had already been made and we were ready to go to the approach to the mount of Fitzroy. We had to make plans on the go. And instead of Fitzroy, they decided to climb a small one-day wall. Still, here, on the edge of the world, you can't lose even such small opportunities. And we did the right thing! We climbed classic route on Aguja Guillaumet. Kilometers along trails and unpleasant drifts, snow and ice under the mountain and in front of the very top, but then 15 ropes of very pleasant climbing on granite of medium difficulty. We acted safely and fairly quickly. It's nice to be a well-coordinated team and enjoy climbing. Plus one steep wall passed, a little more experience and now, as Alexey said: "Fitzroy is surrounded and he has no chance left." We will try to make the ascent next time.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Argentina:

Greetings from Patagonia! We have great news, we have climbed our summit! And this is the first mountain in Patagonia for Alexey. We had a great adventure.
The first day was a very beautiful trekking of 13 km to the base camp. Overnight in a tent on a small area between the rocks and exit at dawn. We went under the wall along the glacier and began the ascent itself. Moreover, Alexey was in the lead for the first half of the route, confidently moving along the cliff and reliably belayed. Here you need to do everything yourself, the rock is clean, not prepared, use special equipment (camalots). And we were calm for the leader, the training was not in vain.

That's just before the very top, we ran into a local rope that was slower, but there was no way to overtake them. We were roasting in the sun for 40 minutes, and did not wait for their descent.
As a result, 14 hours from camp to camp. It may not be fast, but it is safe and calm.
We decided to spend New Year's Eve down in the village and practically ran down, and the change of the year caught us 4 kilometers from the finish line on the shore of Lake Capri.
Now we are resting, waiting for the weather window for the main ascent.
Happy New Year to all!
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Greetings from Patagonia! We climbed another multi-pitch as a training. It turned out to be a good workout, the weather was cool and windy. We climbed slowly, documented every step, and Alexey's fall was caught on camera. It looks scary, but this is a normal working moment on the route! We had four days of climbing training and are resting today.

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Patagonia:
Hello everyone! Today is a sunny day in Patagonia again and we decided to entertain ourselves with bouldering (rock climbing) in a very beautiful, magical forest. We found special mattresses for belay, bought pies, cooked a mate and spent several hours on the rocks. When you are in the process of climbing like this, it may seem that you are lying on the mattress more than you are moving. But in fact, the body gets very tired of the extreme movements that have to be performed in order to make such micro-ascents. And this is a wonderful finger training and ninja climbing skills.

And, of course, the incredible views of our destination - Mount Fitzroy!

This area around the town of El Chalten is famous for its climbing stones. Of course, there is classical rock climbing here, but first of all it is a bouldering area where all local climbers come for the summer, and in February an international festival is even held.
In the evening, we continued our endless conversations about the weather and made plans. And for tomorrow we decided to look at our condition: arrange a light trekking the next day or climb the wall again. In any case, we will not be bored and we will spend our time usefully. Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Boris Egorov transmits from Argentina:
Greetings from Argentina! Our unique program in Patagonia has finally begun. Yesterday we stopped at the small tourist village of El Chalten at the foot of the mountains, and today we have already conducted the first warm-up training on the rocks, climbed many simple routes. It is very sunny, but the famous Patagonian wind does not let us relax. We squint at the light and crunch the sand on our teeth. Tomorrow we will work out the joint-work in the multipitches.
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

At one time, the 7 Summits Club identified the "Seven Super-Mountains" in the World.  Seven unique climbing sites on seven continents.  Alpamayo is one of such objects, a mountain of amazing beauty. The 7 Summits Club has repeatedly arranged ascents on this wonderful peak. And we are ready to repeat this experience with new climbers.

In May, a group of the 7 Summits Club  held a mountaineering trip in the mountainous areas of the United States. Under the guidance of Alexander Lastochkin and Boris Egorov, the participants completed all training and climbing plans, and even more.  They learned a new special technique of rock climbing through the cracks, visited two mountain areas in Utah and Wyoming. As a result, the team climbed three towers: Fisher Tower, Castleton Tower and Devils Tower. 

Member of the trip Eugene Lesnitsky prepared a film about the adventures on the rocks of the United States in his traditional style:

Boris Yegorov from USA: Hello, dears! Here are guides Lastochkin and Yegorov from America. Our adventures ended. We have fulfilled the whole plan of training and climbing, and even more. We trained our team members in new special climbing cracks techniques and visited two mountain areas in Utah and Wyoming. The team climbed three towers: Fisher Tower, Castleton Tower and Devils Tower. Everyone is very happy and returned home in a positive mood. Until next time!

Finally - some photos from the final day. We have specially allocated it for the filming of scenes for the future film.

Hello! There are guides Lastochkin and Egorov from America. Today we climbed Devil's Tower! It was an incredible climbing, wonderful views from the route. But the most interesting thing is that, despite the difficulty of the route, one of the members was always in the lead. And I with Alexander, we only belayed and admired the scenery. Everything turned out on time and very positive!

The team with guides Alexander Lastochkin and Boris Egorov is now in Wyoming. Today, climbers conducted the first training on the rocks of the Devil's tower.  It is an incredible basalt mountain that appeared as if from nowhere in the middle of the plains. Now we have to learn to climb the multifaceted columns of the mountain. For a new type of rocks need a new technique and the right equipment…

Boris Yegorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from USA:

Hello, dears!  Today we made the final ascent in Utah. We climbed the Castleton Tower, it's symbol of the region. Very beautiful freestanding rock tower, among other things, she is often glimpsed in American westerns. Climbing was quite interesting, a lot of different caliber cracks and chimneys. And very cool feeling on the top, 360 degree view! Tomorrow is our last day in Moab, and the plan is to go rafting on the Colorado river.

Hello dears! There are guides Lastochkin and Yegorov from the United States. We and  guys climbed hard route to the Fisher tower. We were surrounded by alien landscapes. We had a special plan for this ascent: we changed roles with members. They were in the lead on the climb, and there, by the way, climbing 6b with our belay points (friends, bookmarks, etc.), and on the descent they were also leaders. Everything turned out just fine! All coped on 5 points. In addition to difficult climbing, a separate adventure was the exit to the top, not difficult physically, but very difficult psychologically. Here it is necessary to control yourself really well and they coped with this task.

Hello, 7 Summits! Guides Lastochkin and Yegorov report from the States. Today we spent the second day on the rocks. Our friends climbed already quite difficult and long  routes, 5.10 category. That's just it can not be compared with our usual scale for determining the difficulty of climbing. Crack 5.10 - this is not 6A as we are used to, but simply a completely different phenomenon on the rocks. For two days we had been rubbing the skin on the back of the palms, and there was a slight fatigue. Tomorrow we plan an active day of rest, we will go to trekking to look at the famous Sandstone arches.

 On March 19th, 2019, a group of 7 Summits Club, guide Boris Yegorov and three  members, climbed the second highest summit of the Kenya massif, Nelion peak, with a height of 5188 meters. To the highest point, the peak of Batian (5199m), it was decided not to go, not to get to the "cold overnight".  Simply, there was not enough day time.  Now the group safely descended to the foot of the summit and Boris Yegorov sent a large selection of photos from the ascent. 

Super-Guide of  the 7 Summits Club Boris Yegorov by satellite phone from Africa:

Hello, Seven Summits! This is guide Boris Yegorov from Kenya, Africa. Today we climbed to the peak of Nelion... To the top of Batian we lacked a little bit of time (we expect details)…

 Super-Guide of the  7 Summits Club  Boris Yegorov  via satellite phone from Equatorial Africa:

 Hello, Seven  Summits! This is guide Boris Egorov from Kenya. Today, we,  without hurry, but at the same time quickly enough, went to the point of Lenana – this is the third highest peak in the Kenya massif. We passed the route in two and a half hours, which, in пeneral, is not bad. And we went down to  our assault camp - Austrian hut. And then suddenly a cloud with snow covered us. Snow fell, the mountain turned white.  So we turned relaxed and decided to have a rest tomorrow.  We have  for a rest one more day in a stock. And while, we plan to storm the day after tomorrow. All, of course, slightly upset. But…

Boris Yegorov, guide of 7 Summits Club from Kenya:

Good evening! Today I had a difficult day in Africa. Basically it went like this:

…  waiting for the participants of the expedition, and ended with the following…

We gathered in a very remarkable restaurant where you can taste the meat of wild animals.

 I liked the team gathered to climb Batian Peak (Kenya massif). Old friends were happy to meet.  Today we have a rest, and tomorrow in plans  there is moving to the National Park and small passes on jungle: 9 kilometers and 600 meters of a climb.

Tomorrow the program of ascent to Batian peak (5199 m) will begin.  This program is part of the project of our Club "7 Super Mountains"!  This project includes programs of climbing the iconic mountains from different continents (Matterhorn, Alpamayo etc…).

 Program guide Boris Yegorov is already in Kenya! He successfully passed acclimatization, climbing to the top of  Point Lenana (4985 m), the third highest peak of the Kenya massif. He has now returned to Nairobi to meet the participants of the programme tomorrow.

  Irena Kharazova, famous for her diaries from the expedition to Everest and became the brightest heroine of the film "Gene of Heights", returns with a new project.  After successfully completing the project "Seven Summits" and giving birth the child, as promised in the film,  Irena for some time disappeared from our field of vision. But now she appeared again and comes out with a new bright project – "Seven Super Mounts". Six months ago Irena made a successful ascent to the most beautiful peak of the world - Alpamayo in Peru.

  And now she goes to Kenya to make a difficult technical ascent to the most difficult peak of Africa - Kenya 5200 (peaks Nelion and Batian). Date of trip March 14-21. You can also join a support group and make a simpler ascent in the Kenya massif - to the top of Lenana 4895 at a special price.

On May 8, Alexey Sivkov and Evgeny Lesnitsky, long-time friends of the 7  Summits Club, under the guidance of two instructors, successfully completed an incredible ascent to El Capitan by famous route "Nose".  

The climb took 3 days, including 2 nights on the wall and one night on the top of El Capitan.