All news: January 2012
Fedor Konyukhov is planning his second ascent of Mt. Everest in May 2012
This year is an anniversary year for the country’s mountaineering: it’s been 30 years since the successful ascent of Mt. Everest by the USSR team (May 1982), and it’s been 20 years since the first Russian expedition to the ...
This year is an anniversary year for the country’s mountaineering: it’s been 30 years since the successful ascent of Mt. Everest by the USSR team (May 1982), and it’s been 20 years since the first Russian expedition to the top of Mt. Everest (May 1992). Fedor Konyukhov was a member of the latter expedition that consisted of four Russian mountain climbers. Paired with Eugeny Vinogradsky (Yekaterinburg), he ascended to the top of the world on May 14th at 13:15 Katmandu time.
Twenty years later, Fedor is planning to repeat the ascent of Mt. Everest, but this time, climbing the North Side, where the climb leaves from Tibet. As a partner for this expedition, Fedor Konyukhov has chosen “7 Summits Club”, the International Alpine Club that specializes in arrangements of all the necessary steps for the ascent of the eight-thousanders. (http://www.7summits.ru/)
Fedor Konyukhov: “I turned 60 last December. It’s a good point in life to stop and reflect on all that has been accomplished in life including reaching the North Pole, Mt. Everest, and sailing around the Cape Horn. It’s been 20 years since my last expedition to the top of Mt. Everest with the “AVTOVAZ” team. I would like to try the ascent one more time and, God willing, to place a small Orthodox cross on top of the summit. (Author’s note: Fedor Konyukhov was ordained as a priest of the Russian Orthodox Church in December of 2010).
Alexandr Abramov is a professional mountaineer and President of the “7 Summits Club”. In the 1990s, he and I were working simultaneously on our goals of achieving The Seven Summits program, which consists of climbing the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. There are many organizations that specialize in this kind of mountaineering, but I would like to work with this Russian company, given the fact that “7 Summits Club” is one of the leaders in this area of expertise. In addition, there will be a large group of us, including a few of my friends, who will stay at the base camp. I want them to see the beauty of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest and to experience the spirituality of that place.”
Alexander Abramov: “Nowadays the process of putting together an expedition to summit Mt. Everest is different than back in 1992. After all, it’s been 20 years, but Mt. Everest remains Mt. Everest and no one can guarantee a successful ascent of the 8850 meters. We will have one guide per five climbers. Each climber is accompanied by a Sherpa. We provide six oxygen tanks of system “Poisk” per person. Our medical person works with us until the North Side. There are four fully established base camps at the 5100m, 5800m, 6400m, and 7000m as well as 2 fully equipped high-altitude camps at the 7800m and 8300m. The expedition will take place between April 10 and June 10, 2012. I am very pleased that Fedor Konyukhov will be a member of our team this year. I’ve known Fedor for 20 years, and I will be happy to help him realize his dream.”
Zermatt Civic Community want to buy Hornli Hut
Zermatt.ch. The Zermatt Civic Community is planning to invest several million francs in the renovation and extension of the existing mountain huts on the Matterhorn. The modernized accommodation is to be opened in 2015 to coincide with the ...
Zermatt.ch. The Zermatt Civic Community is planning to invest several million francs in the renovation and extension of the existing mountain huts on the Matterhorn. The modernized accommodation is to be opened in 2015 to coincide with the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn. It is intended to upgrade the Hornli Hut with space to sleep 120 and a daytime restaurant to meet increased guest requirements and the latest standards of technology.
The current accommodation options on the Matterhorn at 3260 m.a.s.l. consist of two buildings: the Berghaus Matterhorn (Belvedere), from the turn of the 19th century, which is owned by the Zermatt Civic Community, and the Hornli Hut, which was built in 1965 by the Monte Rosa section of the SAC on a leasehold plot belonging to the people of Zermatt. The two buildings are not linked and both are in urgent need of renovation. By 2015, the two buildings are to become one unit that will meet today’s requirements in terms of gastronomy, functionality, energy, sanitary facilities, water supply and wastewater disposal, whereby the water shortage at the foot of the Hornligrat presents a particular challenge. Plans envisage solving this problem in a similar way to the new Monte Rosa Hut; snow would be melted in winter and stored in a tank under today’s SAC hut.
Every year, an average of up to 3500 guests stay overnight on the Matterhorn. Of these, some 400 stay in the Hornli Hut and 3100 in the Berghaus Matterhorn. The narrow dormitories for up to 25 persons and simple sanitary facilities no longer meet today’s requirements. On summer days, up to 140 mountaineers set out on the ascent of the Matterhorn. The Berghaus Matterhorn is also extremely popular with day guests, who have played a large part in the success of the lodge. This results in the modest infrastructure and hut team around host, Kurt Lauber, regularly reaching the limit of what is within the realms of possibility. Fernando Clemenz, Director of Mountain Operations at the Matterhorn Group sums it up: “It is of prime importance to the responsible persons in the civic community and the Matterhorn Group to offer guests suitable facilities and services at this special location, even if the focus is not on a profitable operation because of the short opening period.”
New construction or renovation: different versions under examination
The initial position is not exactly straightforward and also somewhat out of the ordinary, even for the Matterhorn Group: the modernization of a major building complex in the high mountains requires time. Thus planning at the Matterhorn Group has been pressed ahead with for months, even while decision making is still in progress. The civic community has commissioned Zermatt architect Hans Zurniwen to draw up a pre-project for the renovation and extension of both huts on the Matterhorn. The pre-project will present and examine different versions. The preferred version is to renovate the Berghaus Matterhorn and build a modern extension to replace the Hornli Hut. Another option being considered is to replace the Bergaus Matterhorn with a completely new building or an extension to the western section of the building. Particular attention will be paid to the building services and supply concept during modernisation. Solar panels will be installed for the supply of hot water. There are no plans for an actual heating system; the major part of heating needs will be covered using passive solar radiation. The water supply will be provided via a water reservoir for meltwater, which must have a volume adequate to ensure the supply until September. Wastewater disposal will take place using the proven method of a separate sewer system (solid/liquid) with sewerage system and sewage plant disposal, whereby a small hydropower station will be operated using treated grey water. In addition, a ventilation system is planned for the kitchen and communal room and the installation of a photovoltaic system envisaged on the south facade for the supply of electricity. Initial cost estimates anticipate an investment of approximately 7 million francs for the renovation and extension of both huts.---
Zermatt Civic Community want to buy Hornli Hut
The responsible bodies of the Zermatt Civic Community and the Monte Rosa section of the SAC agree that for operational and economic reasons, it would make sense for the future responsibility for catering operations at the start of the Matterhorn climb to be in one pair of hands. The Zermatt Civic Community now wants to take over the entire building project and buy the Hornli Hut from the Swiss Alpine Club. Preparatory building work can commence in 2012, as soon as the decision is made on the version chosen for the extension and renovation. A possible new-build section would be realized in 2013 and 2014 and completion work carried out in 2015. The smooth running of normal hut operations must be ensured during the building phase, because closing the Hornli Hut would be equivalent to closing the Matterhorn. Environmental associations are included in the key planning phase as well as the SAC and regular discussions are held. All agree that a modern operation will welcome guests in 2015, at the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn.Thrills at Switzerland’s most famous SAC hut
Thrills at Switzerland’s most famous SAC hut
“You never walk alone” – appropriate words published on the Internet by a hiking blogger from England. Anyone hiking from the Schwarzsee lake towards the Hornli Hut is truly never alone, because an increasing number of mountain hikers are now making the ascent as well as climbers. Some people sit equipped with binoculars on the terrace of the Hornli Hut like avid fans. From their ringside seat they watch every step - or false step - of the Matterhorn gladiators and comment on the events.
Hornli Hut guests, day visitors, know that a stay on the terrace is a “live” thriller, mountain panorama and perhaps documentary of a dramatic rescue rolled into one. If poorly prepared climbers are en route, watchers can be witness to a game of Alpine Russian roulette played by the summit hopefuls. Of climbers who enter the wall with poor equipment and scant preparation and then tumble down like rag dolls from the east flank. At worst, the unfortunate climbers belong to the ten per cent of victims who disappear for ever into the glacier.
But up there are also many serious mountaineers, the summit scalers, whose presence has made the Matterhorn world famous since 1865 and continues to do so today. And then there are the charismatic mountain guides, who lead their guests safely up and down the magical “Hore”, the local name for the mountain. Every summer they make their pilgrimage to the Hornli Hut and accept the stresses and strains of a restless, if not sleepless, night in a dormitory with up to 25 people. And if water is in short supply, they’ll also go without brushing their teeth. On sunny, summer days there are so many climbers on the Matterhorn that lack of space on the roped routes results in exchanges of strong language, holdups and accidental rock falls.
In its almost 150 years of mountaineering history, the Matterhorn has claimed well over 500 lives. Four deaths occurred at the start in 1865. After Englishman Edward Whimper’s seven-strong team stood in triumph on the summit, he was acclaimed the victor. However, four people fell to their deaths on the descent and Whimper faced court proceedings. Nevertheless, the Matterhorn has a magical attraction. It is the most photographed mountain in the world. It holds many mountaineers in its grip and won’t let go until they too have stood on the summit.
Information on the first ascent and the torn rope of Whimper’s team: on view in the Matterhorn Museum
Zermatt Museum: The past as an experience
The Zermatt Zermatlantis Museum will be celebrating its fifth anniversary on the 18th December 2011. Over this time, it has become an important pillar of Zermatt’s alpine history and culture, with as many as 1,000 visitors flocking to the underground world of the museum on some days.
The concept of setting up a village with original, old buildings from Zermatt as a showplace for the historical subjects has been extremely successful. For its guests, the museum has developed into an integral feature of the overall experience of Zermatt. Even the locals often come and look around.
Crowds of people
On average, around 40,000 persons visit the museum each year. It can happen that up to 1,000 persons descend the stairs into the underground past of Zermatt on a single day. The successful concept originated from the Steiner museum concept company in Sarnen, who count the Glasi Hergiswil (glass works museum), the Harbour Museum in Hamburg and the Swiss National Museum (Landesmuseum) among their clients.
Zermatlantis is the fusion of the words Zermatt and Atlantis, and is a metaphor for the historically designed museum archipelago. Stories are told of the Horu, and of the little village with its inhabitants, who have now become globally respected tourism protagonists as a result of “first-ascent alpinism”.
“Village square” as the centre
“Now and again, we have noticed that our visitors on the Museum’s village square behave as they would have behaved on a real village square. They talk to each other, sit on the benches near the tree or even take a nap”, says Edy Schmid, the president of the Alpine Museum Zermatt Association. You reach the walk-in buildings from the cobbled village square: the mountain guide’s house, the local pastor’s home, the tiny tea house and the stables with farm animals, including mules, black-necked goats and black-nose sheep. There are also wild animals, however: marmot, chamois and an ibex that is still smelly today.
The drama of the first ascent
The visitors are mostly drawn to mountain guide’s house and to the house in which the first ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper in the year 1865 is shown. The drama of the three survivors (Whymper and father and son Taugwalder, the mountain guides) and the four men who fell (Michel Croz, a mountain guide from Chamonix, and the guests Francis Douglas, Robert Hadow and Charles Hudson) really gets under your skin. In addition to the broken rope, which is draped over a red velvet cushion, you can also see equipment and clothing remnants from the victims, as well as the portraits of the stern-looking participants. In 2007, using a replica of the original rope, it was found that, contrary to the rumours, the rope was not cut for self-survival. The investigation commissioned by the museum proved that the rope could only hold 300 kilograms, and was therefore too thin to save the lives of the four men that fell.
We congratulate the team of Ingush mountaineers climbed Mount Kilimnajaro
On January 25 the team of climbers from Ingushetia has climbed the highest peak in Africa, the first summit on the way to Everest. "Today at 10:30 a.m., our team reached the summit of Kilimanjaro. Here, at 5895 meters, the team took a few ...
On January 25 the team of climbers from Ingushetia has climbed the highest peak in Africa, the first summit on the way to Everest. "Today at 10:30 a.m., our team reached the summit of Kilimanjaro. Here, at 5895 meters, the team took a few shots "- expedition leader Visa Yusupov said by telephone from the top.
"The ascent was not easy. Wind and low temperatures, not to mention the pressure drops, complicated the climb. The last 200 meters were the hardest, but it is sweeter victory "- the coach Sergey Bogomolov added.
Team: Sergey Bogomolov (coach), Vladimir Korenkov (instructor), Aznor Khajiev Musa Hadzhiev, Yusuf Yevkurov, Magomed Aushev, Visan Yusupov (expedition leader), as well as a climber of Ukraine Vadym Nazarenko.
The only woman in the team Leila Abogachieva stayed in the camp Kibo.
The team of climbers from the North Caucasus republic plans to climb Mount Everest with the expedition of 7 Summits Club. They want to raise the flag of Ingushetia on the highest mountain in the world on June 4, the day of the 20th anniversary of the formation of the republic.
Based on materials from the site http://pravitelstvori.ru
The team on the 7 Summit Club office before leaving on the expedition
Courses of Russian Mountain Guides School in Austria ended
Two stages of Courses of Russian Mountain Guides School in Austria ended safely. Permanent snowfalls and wind made it difficult to substantially the practical part of training. But the program has been implemented. As a result of the School ...
Two stages of Courses of Russian Mountain Guides School in Austria ended safely. Permanent snowfalls and wind made it difficult to substantially the practical part of training. But the program has been implemented. As a result of the School for all candidates will be receiving a certificate from the Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) on successful completion of the module on avalanche safety (Level 1). Cadets on the final day went to the lab company's GORE-TEX ®, which has kindly provided the opportunity to see with own eyes to the opportunities and technology, "breathable" fabrics. Oksana Chekulaeva, program manager for Free-ride School on the 7 Summits Club was one of the students. We offer some of her photos.
Elbrus invites athletes and all mountain amateurs
Welcome to Elbrus! Now Prielbrusie region, ie, the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus, is completely open to the public. In early May, the company Red Fox plans to hold a massive competition. Hundreds of athletes, mountain fans will come to ...
Welcome to Elbrus! Now Prielbrusie region, ie, the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus, is completely open to the public. In early May, the company Red Fox plans to hold a massive competition. Hundreds of athletes, mountain fans will come to the mountain slopes of Mount Elbrus, to compete in several types of competitions. Race is included in the international calendar of the International Federation of mountain races (ISF). This is the first start of the World Series. We are waiting for the world leaders.
Elbrus - the highest mountain in Europe, is waiting for you ! Climbing is a unique, with beautiful scenery, and you will remember for a lifetime.
For the first time professionals and amateurs will start separately. Amateurs will start up to the summit, like all previous years, from the shelter of "Barrels" (3800 meters), and professionals - from the Clearing Azau (2350 meters).
Vertical kilometer same as before, will be from the Clearing Azau to shelter "Mir"
We wait your application on the IV International Festival of extreme sports Red Fox Elbrus Race 2012!
Red Fox company together with Russian Mountaineering Federation conduct IV International festival Red Fox Elbrus Race on May 6-11, 2012.
The competition will take place on the Elbrus peak, the highest top of the Europe and the most popular Russian mountain region.
You can fill the Application here
The preliminary applications can be sent by e-mail in the attached excel file. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. It’s obligatory to indicate last name, age and discipline of the competitions and qualification.
The preliminary applications are accepted until 20 April 2012 with obligatory confirmation.
11-00-19-00 Registration. Glade Azau.
19-00 Briefing of the Elbrus Vertical Kilometer® (2012 Vertical Kilometer® Series).
9-00 Elbrus Vertical Kilometer® (2012 Vertical Kilometer® Series).
14-00 Inauguration of the Festival.
Awarding ceremony of the winners of the Elbrus Vertical Kilometer®.
19-00 Briefing of the ski-mountaineering personal race.
9-00 Ski-mountaineering personal race.
14-00 Awarding ceremony of the winners of the ski-mountaineering personal race.
19-00 Briefing of the Elbrus Vertical SkyRace® (2012 SkyRace® Series).
7-00 Elbrus Vertical SkyRace® (2012 SkyRace® Series).
19-00 Briefing of the snow-shoes race.
10-30 Snow-shoes race.
15-00 Awarding ceremony of the winners of the Elbrus Vertical SkyRace® and of the snow-shoes race. Closing ceremony of the Festival.
You are welcome!
Summits Expedition: RI mountaineers eye Mount Everest
Niken Prathivi, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta. Indonesian mountaineering group the Nature Lovers Society (Wanadri) is on its way to conquer Mount Everest after successfully reaching Vinson Massif’s peak, 4,897 meters above sea ...
Niken Prathivi, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta. Indonesian mountaineering group the Nature Lovers Society (Wanadri) is on its way to conquer Mount Everest after successfully reaching Vinson Massif’s peak, 4,897 meters above sea level, in Antarctica on Jan. 7.
It was the fifth summit conquered by the team of six, who aim to reach Mount Everest’s peak, 8,850 meters above sea level, in May in order to complete a two-year Seven Summits expedition.
If they scale Mount Everest, they will be the second Indonesian team to reach all seven summits. The Mahitala team, from the Parahyangan Catholic University (Unpar) in Bandung, West Java, was the first to complete the mission.
The expedition is aimed at promoting nature conservation, with the group’s experiences and the lessons learnt during the expedition to be included in a manual for climbers, particularly those from tropical countries like Indonesia, explaining how to scale mountains outside of sub-tropical regions.
“We are now preparing our six mountaineers so they’ll be ready for the final climb in May and April. So far, they’re 75 percent ready in terms of physical condition, but in sponsorship, we’re still only 20 percent ready,” Seven Summits Indonesia director Yoppie Rikson Saragih told The Jakarta Post on Thursday.
The Wanadri team is made up of team head Ardeshir Yaftebbi (28), Nurhuda (22), Martin Rimbawan (25), Fajri Al Luthfi (25), Iwan Irawan (37) and Gina Afriani (23) — who is the only woman in the group.
Yoppie said that his team expected higher participation from state-owned and private companies to support the trip.
“Each mountaineer needs around US$60,000 to be able to reach the Everest peak. So we need strong funding support,” added Yoppie, who is the Wanadri chief, about the iconic mountain located between Nepal and Tibet, China.
The Sports and Youth Ministry, state-owned oil and gas company Pertamina, state-owned liquid petroleum gas company Perusahaan Gas Negara and cellular operator Telkomsel are among the expedition sponsors.
The Seven Summits expedition started with Puncak Jaya (4,884-m), locally known as Ndugu-Ndugu but more widely known as Carstensz Pyramid, in Papua in April 2010.
After scaling Carstensz, the six climbers went on to conquer Kilimanjaro (5,892-m) in Tanzania in July 2010 and then Elbrus (5,642-m) in Russia.
In the attempt to reach the fourth summit, at Aconcagua (6,962-m) in South America, Gina failed to reach the peak due to physical barriers.
“At that time, we kind of miscalculated the difficulty of the trip while having a woman in the group. We should’ve taken more days for acclimatization at a certain height for her. But, we did not do that and Gina failed to continue the trip to the peak. Lesson learned. We will surely share such experiences in the book,” Yoppie said.
The fifth and sixth summits reached were at McKinley (6,194-m) in Alaska and at Vinson Massif.
Yoppie hoped that the results of the expedition, which will be recorded in the manual, would enlighten people about the importance of protecting nature, especially from global warming.
Everest is waiting for Prince Harry
Prince, who is currently a military helicopter officer, is going to take part in an expedition to Everest.Thus, it will continue his cooperation with the Walking with the Wounded. They conduct various activities with the wounded soldiers of ...
Prince, who is currently a military helicopter officer, is going to take part in an expedition to Everest.Thus, it will continue his cooperation with the Walking with the Wounded. They conduct various activities with the wounded soldiers of Great Britain and raise funds for their treatment. This time the target will be set very high, above nowhere - to climb Everest by the team of disabilities. Prince Harry, who should appear at the base camp, will guarantee to collect the necessary interest (and funds) for the expedition.
Following the teams recent success in reaching the summit of Manaslu (8156m), Ed Parker and Expedition Leader Russell Brice have now selected the Walking with the Wounded Mt.Everest Summit and Support Team.
A team of 5 wounded soldiers will attempt to reach Mount Everest in May 2012. The Summit Team will consist of North Pole veterans Martin Hewitt and Jaco Van Gass along with Karl Hinnett, David Wiseman and Francis Atkinson.
We are delighted to announce that we will be organising two expeditions to Base Camp to visit this incredible mountain and to give support to the Wounded summit team. There are limited places on these two-week treks to Base Camp and we would urge anyone who would like to stand up and be counted with a charity trek to Base Camp to let us know as soon as possible.
The provisional dates are April 15th to May 6th and May 2nd to 23rd.
The Base Camp Team will consist of Daniel Majid who will be Head of Expedition Communications, along with Andy Hawkins, Manindra Raiand Chris Gwilt who will each lead the Base Camp Expeditions.
Antarctic Season for the 7 Summits Club is successfully ended. Photos
Dmitry Ermakov sent a message and photos already from Punta Arenas. He and his groupe came back from Antarctica. Dragan Jovovich from Serbia, the Russians Dmitry Kuznetsov and Vladimir Pankratenko with Dmitry successfully completed the Last ...
Dmitry Ermakov sent a message and photos already from Punta Arenas. He and his groupe came back from Antarctica. Dragan Jovovich from Serbia, the Russians Dmitry Kuznetsov and Vladimir Pankratenko with Dmitry successfully completed the Last Degree program. Before that, Dmitry Ermakov went up on Mount Vinson with a large group of 7 Summits Club. Total for season 7 Summits Club had two groups on the Vinson and two in the Last Degree.
Kabardinian Karina Mezova on Mount Kilimanjaro. The Ingush do not want to fall behind
January 10 at 7:45 am Karinn Mezova (young woman, pride of Kabardino-Balkaria republic in the North Caucasus) has climbed the tallest peak of Africa. Congratulations! In May 2011, Karina climbed Everest in the group of the 7 Summits Club. ...
January 10 at 7:45 am Karinn Mezova (young woman, pride of Kabardino-Balkaria republic in the North Caucasus) has climbed the tallest peak of Africa. Congratulations! In May 2011, Karina climbed Everest in the group of the 7 Summits Club. Meanwhile, a new Everest Expedition formed in other North Caucasian republics - Ingushetia. President Yunus-Bek Yevkurov personally spoke at a press conference. He arranged to finance the expedition from special funds. Four Ingush climbers are preparing to participate: Musa Hadziev, Visankirey Yusupov, Leila Albogachieva (woman) and Magomed Aushev. Experienced Himalaya climbers Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Korenkov invited to participate as leaders. Yevkurov also like to see in expedition Abdul-Halim Olmezov from Balkaria, who twice climbed to the summit of Everest.
Next week, the climbers will go to Tanzania to conquer the highest peak in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m). Then the group will travel to South America to Argentina, to climb Mt. Aconcagua (6,960 m). In addition, Yevkurov ordered to organize a mountaineering school in Ingushetia for young people. As you know, it was recently decided to build a great country ski resort in Ingushetia.
BMC about Hans Kammerlander and second highest summits
Italian Hans Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents. In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the ...
Italian Hans Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents.
In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the company of Austrians Robert Miller and Christian Stangl.
Whilst it's not clear when or where the original idea of Second Seven Summits was muted, Jon Kraukauer, discussing the Seven Summits fascination in his best seller, Into Thin Air, notes that climbing the second highest peaks would provide a much greater challenge.
Kammerlander climbed K2 in 2001 but only decided to focus on the Second Seven Summits in 2009. That year he climbed Ojas del Salado in Chile (6,893m) and Kenya (5,199m). In 2010 came 5,959m Logan in the Canadian Yukon and Dych Tau (5,204m) in Russia. In 2011 it was the turn of Puncak Trikora (4,730m), the second highest peak in Australasia.
The second highest in Australasia/Oceania still seems to be a question of debate. Nggu Pulu is often quoted as the second highest summit, but it is more a subsidiary top to Carstensz Pyramid than an independent mountain. However, another school of thought suggests Puncak Mandala, a separate peak, has a higher altitude than Trikora.
Tyree was first climbed in January 1967 by Barry Corbet and John Evans via a committing traverse over Gardiner, during the American expedition that made the first ascent of the continent's highest mountain, Vinson.
The second came in 1989 when Mugs Stump made his now legendary solo ascent of the west face, totally raising the bar in Antarctic mountaineering.
In 1997 French Antoine de Choudens and Antoine Cayrel climbed the east face for the third ascent. This line was repeated not long after by Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe.
While the route Kammerlander and partners took to the summit is currently not known for certain, it is most likely to be via the great ice slope of the east face.
In 2008 and 2009 Stangl, who is also on a quest to complete the Second Seven, had tried Tyree. On the second attempt, via the French Route on the east face, he was within shouting distance of the summit when a single falling rock broke his partner's arm, causing the pair to bail.
Kammerlander has climbed 13 of the 8,000ers, but is quoted as saying he has no intention of returning to Manaslu, in order to complete the collection, because he lost friends there early in his climbing career.
Stangl's aim is now to climb the Triple Seven Summits: the first, second and third highest mountains on each continent.
Alpari begins the conquest of the seven great mountains of the world
International brand Alpari begins a conquest of the seven tallest peaks of continents. Project starts in February with a climb of Aconcagua (6,960 m) in the Argentine Andes. Further Alpari plan to climb on Africa's highest point Mount ...
International brand Alpari begins a conquest of the seven tallest peaks of continents. Project starts in February with a climb of Aconcagua (6,960 m) in the Argentine Andes. Further Alpari plan to climb on Africa's highest point Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m), Everest (8848 m), Mount McKinley (6194 m) in Alaska, Elbrus (5642 m), the highest peak in the Australian continent Kosciusko (2,228 m) and the highest mountain in Antarctica - Vinson (5140 m).
Alpari team intends to set a collective world record and to climb all the peaks in a calendar year or even less. Thus, the company seeks, above all, to draw attention to the development of mountaineering in Russia. "Climbing - this is the highest achievement of spirit; record ascent - a symbol of commitment to an absolute success - director of corporate communications Valery Tarasov said. – We understood climbing spirit. Alpari is a right leader in the Forex market, there are no such vertices, which we will not submit ".
In the history of Alpari we had already a few climbs. In 2010, company's employees planted a flag of Alpari on Mount Kilimanjaro, we climbed alpine peaks, Breithorn and Mont Blanc."It's a good tradition – be all together to climb the mountain, overcoming difficulties, cold and difficult conditions. We still can do it!" - The chairman of the Supervisory Board of Alpari Andrey Dashin said. Alpari plans to expand the horizons of their presence - and now on the highest peaks of all seven continents. After climbing, on each of peaks will be officially put up the special flag of "Alpari on top of the world."
The official partners of the project "Alpari on top of the world" will be the "7 Summits Club ", the Federation of Russian Mountaineering, a popular sports media web site www.risk.ru, as well as several manufacturers of specialized clothing and equipment for mountaineers.
Today we successfully reached the South Pole
7 Summits, hello! Dmitry Ermakov, from Antarctica, from the South Pole. Today we successfully reached the South Pole. And today, we visited the Amundsen-Scott Polar station. All team members are satisfied and happy. Tomorrow we will stay ...
7 Summits, hello! Dmitry Ermakov, from Antarctica, from the South Pole. Today we successfully reached the South Pole. And today, we visited the Amundsen-Scott Polar station. All team members are satisfied and happy. Tomorrow we will stay for the 100th anniversary of the conquest of the Pole by Robert Scott. The day after tomorrow we fly to the Union Glacier and on .... All is well, the mood is perfect...
We congratulate our Polish friends with a record of the Seven Summits!
Małgorzata Pierz-Pękala and her son Daniel Misera became the first pair of “mother + son” successfully completed Seven Summits. December 27 they reached the summit Kosciuszko, as is well known named after the national ...
Małgorzata Pierz-Pękala and her son Daniel Misera became the first pair of “mother + son” successfully completed Seven Summits. December 27 they reached the summit Kosciuszko, as is well known named after the national hero of Poland. In 2010, they climbed Mount Everest in the expedition 7 Summits Club. And early last year as members of our team, they went to the highest point in Antarctica. Their permanent place of residence - the main Polish mountain resort of Zakopane. Here Malgorzata and Daniel often climbed and went to the mountains, and then their favorite guide Peter Konopka suggested to go to Mont Blanc. Thus began their epic Seven Summits.
Seven Summits our Polish friends:
June 2002 - Mont Blanc (4810 m)
June 2005 - Kilimandżaro (5895 m)
January 2006 - Aconcagua (6960 m)
August 2008 - Elbrus (5642 m)
June 2009 - McKinley (6195 m)
May 2010 - Mount Everest (8850 m)
January 2011 - Mt. Vinson (4892 m)
December 2011 - Piramida Carstensza (4884 m)
December 2011 - Góra Kościuszki (2230 m)
Ingushetia And The Caspian Coast Are Added To The North Caucasus Tourism Cluster
Russian Government decided to expand the North Caucasus tourism cluster. The resolution ¹ 1195 "On special economic zones in the North Caucasus Federal District", dated 29 December 2011, was published on the site of Russian Government. In ...
Russian Government decided to expand the North Caucasus tourism cluster. The resolution ¹ 1195 "On special economic zones in the North Caucasus Federal District", dated 29 December 2011, was published on the site of Russian Government.
In particular, Russian Government decided to create a special economic zone for tourism and recreation in the areas of Dzheyrahsky and Sunzha districts of the Republic of Ingushetia. The Ministry of Economic Development of Russia will sign on behalf of Russian Government an agreement with the Government of the Republic of Ingushetia and with the administrations of Dzheyrahsky and Sunzha districts of Ingushetia.
In addition, at the suggestion of Ministry of Economic Development of Russia is decided to increase the area of previously established under the RF Government Resolution ¹ 833 from October 14, 2010 tourist-recreational special economic zones.
In particular, the special economic zone in the Republic of Dagestan, previously bounded by Hunzah area, will be expanded by Derbent, Karabudakhkent, Kaiakent and Magaramkentsky areas.
SEZ in the Karachai-Cherkess Republic, which was bounded by Zelenchukskaya area, will include Urupskiy area.
SEZ in Kabardino-Balkaria Republic, located on the territory of Cherek, Elbrus and Chegem areas will complement the land of another area - Zolsky.
The Ministry of Economic Development of Russia will sign on behalf of the Government of the Russian Federation appropriate supplemental agreements amending the previously concluded agreements on the establishment of tourist-recreational special economic zones with the highest executive authorities of Russian regions and executive and administrative bodies of municipalities.
*** The formation of special economic zones for tourism and recreation in the south of Russia goes under the control of OJSC "Northern Caucasus Resorts” in accordance with Government Resolution ¹ 833, dated October 14, 2010 "About creation of the tourism cluster in the North Caucasus Federal District, Krasnodar Territory and the Republic of Adygea". The document envisaged the creation of six tourist-recreational special economic zones in southern Russia for the construction in 2011 - 2020 years of the five new world-class ski resorts - Lagonaki (Krasnodar territory and the Republic of Adygea), Arkhyz (Karachaevo-Cherkessia), Elbrus-Bezengi (Kabardino-Balkaria), Mamison (Republic of North Ossetia - Alania) and Matlas (Republic of Dagestan).
Victor’s group returned with a victory
Everything went fine and finished fine. The Group of Victor Bobok in full force arrived from Antarctica to Punta Arenas on the day before the plan. On January 12, in the morning Sasha Abramov and Luda Korobeshko met them at the airport and ...
Everything went fine and finished fine. The Group of Victor Bobok in full force arrived from Antarctica to Punta Arenas on the day before the plan. On January 12, in the morning Sasha Abramov and Luda Korobeshko met them at the airport and taken to the hotel. Then we all noted the successful ascent of Vinson Massif by a friendly dinner at the bar of Magellan. Igor Cherkashin already flew home. Others members fly today. Sergei Dudko and Dmitry Krasnov, early in the morning flew to Rio de Janeiro. Victor Bobok will fly to Mendoza, to work with a new group on Aconcagua.
Special thanks to Jamila, for culinary pleasing during the trip !
Our team: Alexander Viktorov, Igor Demyanenko, Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Jamila Murtazin, Igor Cherkashin. Three of our Chinese friend, who judging by the pictures quite fit into the group: Ko Kan Fai, Liu Wai Ming Haston, Tsang Chi Sing John.
Oksana Chekulaeva about the second day of the Russian Mountain Guides School in Austria
January 9, we all met in the small town of Bludence. As our Canadian teachers told, the road up to the hut where we planned to stop, is closed because of snowfalls. After a long search, we found shelter in Schrunz and the next morning went ...
January 9, we all met in the small town of Bludence. As our Canadian teachers told, the road up to the hut where we planned to stop, is closed because of snowfalls. After a long search, we found shelter in Schrunz and the next morning went by car to the top of the valley.
First by gondola, then with a minibus, which took us through a beautiful tunnel, drifts on the side of the roof car - and here we are finally in place. Yesterday, the 10th of January, right after breakfast, lectures began, lasted until late evening. We have more than one teacher, we have 3 and each has something to tell us! Today there were small workshops to find in avalanche probes and meteorological observations.
Tomorrow is scheduled first outing in the mountains.
Information about RMGS
From 10 to January 25, 2012 two more modules of the School of Mountain Guides of Russia will be provided for the first part of candidates. Students will listen two courses - Avalanche and Ski training. The school will take place in the mountains of Austria.
In the summer of 2011 in the mountain base "Bezengi", students of the School graduated its first course – rock- climbing (for mountaineering guides) and the initial climbing training (for ski guide).
Education in the school is based on the International Standard IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV. Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) supervises our country national school. It is important to note that the Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) is also actively collaborating with the Russian School and they provides us with a large number of educational materials and equipment.
Training takes place in two main specialization - Mountaineering and Ski Guides.
Winter training teachers of speakers from Canada and Austria:
- Marc Piche - Technical Director of ACMG, IFMGA mountain guide
- Keith Reid - President of ACMG, IFMGA mountain guide
- Mark Klassen - Professor CAA, a mountain guide IFMGA
The group of Tania Stukalova climbed Kilimanjaro
Hello! This is Tatiana Stukalova from Tanzania. Yesterday, January 9, the entire group climbed to the highest point of the African continent, Mount Kilimanjaro. It is occurred at 6.30 - 7.00 am. Now we are down in the hotel. All are doing ...
Hello! This is Tatiana Stukalova from Tanzania. Yesterday, January 9, the entire group climbed to the highest point of the African continent, Mount Kilimanjaro. It is occurred at 6.30 - 7.00 am. Now we are down in the hotel. All are doing well, all healthy and ready for the upcoming safari. Thank you!
Group members: Gregory Anashkin, Tatiana Arefieva, Nadezhda Voskresenskaya, Jury Zimin, Tatiana Lepina, Dmitry Mokhnachev, George Podbutsky, Nicholas Podbutsky. Guide 7 Summits Club – Tatiana Stukalova.
We are growing, nine groups of 7 Summits Club was at the same time on the routes at the beginning of year
Eight teams are in regular contact by satellite telephone. It is not always the connection is secure,but this is the first such experience. The ninth group, completing the trek in Nepal, has been inconstant communication with our Nepali ...
Eight teams are in regular contact by satellite telephone. It is not always the connection is secure,but this is the first such experience. The ninth group, completing the trek in Nepal, has been inconstant communication with our Nepali representation. Thus, the following groups continue their campaigns. Dmitry Ermakov program Last Degree, to ski to the South Pole. Artem Rostovtsev -Trekking in Patagonia. Sergei Kofanov - adventure tour of Australia and New Zealand. Olga Rumyantseva - on Aconcagua. Tatiana Stukalova - Mount Kilimanjaro. The following groups are on finish. Victor Bobok with the group raised on Vinson. Marina Nemirova, who ascended on the summit of Fansipan. Oksana Chekulaeva with a group of freeriders alter the dislocation in the Alps.
McKinley climber retreats, ending 2nd try at winter ascent (AND)
Minnesotan spends week hunkered down before quitting. For the second straight winter, Minnesota adventurer Lonnie Dupre is calling it quits on Mount McKinley after spending a week in a tiny snow cave while waiting for a break in the weather ...
Minnesotan spends week hunkered down before quitting.
For the second straight winter, Minnesota adventurer Lonnie Dupre is calling it quits on Mount McKinley after spending a week in a tiny snow cave while waiting for a break in the weather that never materialized.
Dupre, 50, spent seven days and six nights at 14,200 feet in his second effort to become the first person to make a solo January ascent of the 20,320-foot mountain.
Battling wind gusts that nearly reached 100 mph, according to his website, Dupre began his descent Friday, leaving behind the snow cave in which he spent a week hoping for the wind to subside and visibility to clear enough for him to continue moving up.
"I was forced to make the decision to descend after receiving word that there was another week of the daunting weather around the corner. You just can't climb being blown off your feet," Dupre said in a report from project coordinator Stevie Anna Plummer.
Last January, Dupre made it to 17,200 feet before visibility became an issue and forced him to hunker down for seven days. By the time he got a break in the weather, his body was so weak from spending so much time at high altitude that instead of resuming his ascent, he headed down the mountain.
This time, he holed up at a lower altitude and remained strong and healthy throughout a wind-swept week, Plummer said.
Dupre's climb began Dec. 22 when he was dropped off at the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Glacier base camp -- which is deserted during the winter -- with enough food and fuel to last a month.
On Friday, Dupre endured a long day during which he descended from 14,200 feet to 11,200 amid howling winds. The wind became ferocious on Thursday, with gusts of 97 mph reported by NOAA Aviation, according to Plummer.
"On his descent (Friday), Lonnie managed to get around Windy Corner without being blown off his feet by using both ice axes and crampons to dig in as the gusts would hit him," Plummer reported. "He then proceeded down Squirrel Hill, an icy slope at 12,000 feet, in the dark. The gusts were up to 80 mph and blew Lonnie off his feet, but was able to self arrest.
"He then had to down-climb the remaining three-quarters of Squirrel Hill backwards daggering with both ice axes and using crampons to prevent being blown off his feet again."
Before making the decision to descend, Dupre's time at 14,200 feet was spent mostly inside the snow cave he built, which Plummer said measured four feet by four feet, with occasional ventures outside to secure gear and check on the exterior of the snow cave.
"At about 1:30 a.m. (Friday), Lonnie spent an entire hour in the heavy winds outside securing gear and making sure the snow cave was not being effected by the extreme winds. The winds were so strong that the snow was literally being picked up and thrown into Lonnie's face, almost suffocating him," Plummer reported.
Few people have succeeded summiting Denali during the winter -- alone or in groups -- and only once has the mountain been climbed in the dead of winter in January, when daylight is scarce and weather is sometimes lethally brutal.
A team of two Russians made a January ascent in 1998 and only 14 others have stood atop North America's highest peak in the winter, a stretch defined by the National Park Service as running from the Dec. 21 winter solstice to the March 21 spring equinox.
By BETH BRAGG
Anchorage Daily News
Published: January 8th, 2012 07:43 PM
The group went on the route for the Last Degree program
7 Summits, hello! This is Dmitry Ermakov from Antarctica. Today is the first day of our journey on the program Last Degree. After three days of waiting, the plane took us to the 89 degrees mark. Today we went about four kilometers. Now we ...
7 Summits, hello! This is Dmitry Ermakov from Antarctica. Today is the first day of our journey on the program Last Degree. After three days of waiting, the plane took us to the 89 degrees mark. Today we went about four kilometers. Now we are eating, getting ready for bed. Everything is okay, all right. Members feel good. In general, everything goes according to the plan. By !