Our Club's friends expeditions

Rustam Nabiyev only by the power of their hands yesterday, October 2, climbed one of the highest peaks in the world - the eight-thousand-meter Manaslu! The 7 Summits Club took helped the expedition and received thanks from its leader.

Lyudmila Korobeshko:  Joann Chechnev, the leader of this expedition, sent these photos and information about the ascent today. Our 7 Summits Club helped the team with oxygen and  with some advises  before the trip. To be honest, when Joann in our office asked about Manaslu, I thought it was a very adventurous idea. In addition to the fact that Rustam does not have both legs, the guys did not have the experience of eight-thousanders. But they did the impossible! I am proud and admire! Well done!

 Joann Chechnev sent us (to Alex Abramov) greetings and thanks from the slopes of Manaslu:

Alexander, good evening! Yesterday we climbed on the top of Manaslu. The whole team, in full force. Everything went well. Thank you for your support! Rustam did an incredible thing!

Reportage on television:

Five years ago, Rustam Nabiyev was a paratrooper and served in the city of Omsk. The roof of his barracks collapsed, more than twenty people died on the spot. Rustam lay under the rubble for seven hours, miraculously survived, but lost both legs.

Todorce Giorgiev, Chairman of the AZOT mountain club from the Macedonian city of Veles, sent us photos from the highest peak of his country, Mount Solunska Glava (2504 m). On it, the author and his companion pose in longsleeves, which they were given by the 7 Summits Club. We sent it them by mail. Our acquaintance took place on the slopes of Ararat and we hope that it will continue in the future.

Our friend, the guide of Central Asian programs of the 7 Summits Club, Andrei Erokhin, provided us with this video for publication. We have the right to be proud of the achievement of a new generation of our climbers. Just deciding on a winter climb on Peak Communism is already a lot.

But the team chose a new, unexpected and beautiful line to climb the plateau. And achieved success worthy of previous generations of our climbers. Well-coordinated teamwork, interaction, endurance and composure are the components of success. New heights to you guys!

The peak of Communism (7495 meters) is the highest peak in the territory of the former USSR, located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs. The summit was discovered in 1928, during the Soviet-German scientific expedition. and until 1962 it bore the name "Stalin's Peak." The first ascent was made by Evgeny Abalakov in 1933. In 1962, the peak was renamed on“Peak  Communism”. After Tajikistan gained independence in 1999, a new name “Ismail Somoni Peak” appeared in honor of the founder of the first (in the 10th century) Tajik state. In February 1986, the first winter ascent was made to the peak: 24 climbers (17 from the USSR national team and 7 from the Uzbek national team) climbed the summit in conditions of severe frost.

Our friends from the  team of  Vasily Yelagin and our friends from the RD Studio led by Valdis Pelsh successfully completed the Antarctic program and returned to the Mainland. Record, unprecedented automobile campaign is successfully completed, we will wait for reports and the main thing – the movie. 

RD Studio: in 1820 the Russian expedition Bellingshausen and Lazarev gave the world the sixth continent. On the eve of the bicentennial of this event, we went to Antarctica to create a documentary about the brightest pages of its history. And at the same time we did something that no one else did: a unique Autonomous auto vehicle run on the ice through the Antarctic Continent! For 38 days we passed 5519 km on all-terrain vehicles "Yemelya" without refueling and replenishment of stocks on the way!

The team of Viktor Simonov arrived at the launch point at the Cape Arctichesky. Everything is fine…

Every day we receive reports on ice conditions and weather conditions. Even in flight, we monitored the situation. It is better to see for yourself. According to forecasts, everything is fine. The ice is thick, the thickness is optimal for movement, and the temperature is -32 degrees ...

 Yesterday afternoon we flew safely from Arkhangelsk to the start. A small change on the island of Novaya Zemlya and on to the road. 7 hours in the sky.

 At the start of the expedition there were many correspondents - follow the reports in the media. In the meantime, a few photos from the fields ...

Andrey Mikhaylenko:  It is the final day. On March 19th,  after one month and two days, the expedition finished in the place of its start.

12520 km were left behind, of which about 1000  by winter roads, 700 km of taiga and river bends on a snowmobile. We did it!

All goals and objectives have been achieved.

 I think it will take time to comprehend the results of the expedition "To Happy people - 2018", add diaries and reflections, go through a mountain of photos, try to made a video.

We saw Happy People as beyond the Urals in Siberia, and to the border of the East-West.

And we brought a lot of emotions and impressions into our hearts.

And our communication with Happy People continues!

 The project was implemented with the support of Mikhail Tarkovsky and his Friends, the 7 Summits Club  and others…

The 7 Summits Club welcomes our friends, who organized this unique expedition. We will follow with excitement and great interest the news, the progress of the group to the North Pole.  NORTH POLE 2018 is a joint project of the Expedition center of the Ministry of Defence of the Russian Federation and the Arctic Center of Karelia. The head of the expedition - Victor Simonov.

 The beginning of the route: Cape Arctic archipelago Islands Northern Land. The finish line – the North pole. Straight-line distance - 1300 km. Dates: March 20 - April 20. The movement will be made on the Russian snowmobile Pomor.

EXPEDITION LEADER:

VIKTOR SIMONOV

Traveler, polar Explorer, expedition leader of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation at the North Pole. Expedition experience - more than 25 years, of which more than 12 years on the North Pole. The assets of a large-scale expedition sled dogs together with Fedor Konyukhov in 2013 from the North pole to Canada. More than 4 training programs were conducted for the Ministry of defense at the North pole, the author of a unique educational course for students of the Presidential school for Arctic training, more than 10 expeditions involving young people, including those with disabilities. The head of the Arctic centre in Karelia.

PARTICIPANTS FROM THE MINISTRY OF DEFENCE:

TEMIRKHANOV TEMIRLAN

LOBANOV ANDREI

KALACHEV VLADISLAV

VLADIMIR PISKAREV

Video news

Viktor Simonov: Yes, I am an optimist. There is no place for pessimists in the Arctic at all!

Project site: 

http://northpole2018.ru/

Andrey Yerokhin, a professional mountain guide from Kyrgyzstan and one of the best friends of the 7 Summits Club Anna Rybakova climbed one of the objects of the program of 7 summits Club, which we called "Seven super-mountains". The highest peak of Mount Kenya is called Batian and it has no easy and safe ways. This is a technical climbing, it was not  easy to our friends, what tells Andrey Yerokhin.

The report in Russian,

here see photos…

Valery Rozov has successfully completed the highest BASE jump in South America in his quest to leap from the highest suitable peak on every continent on the planet. The expedition was organized by the 7 Summit Club.

The Russian took five days to climb Huascarán in Peru, which stands 6,768 metres above sea level, often doing much of his ascending during the night in cooler temperatures when the ice congeals.

Climbing the technically difficult and dangerous south summit, known for ice and snow avalanches, he made it to the top safely.

He then took off 50m from the absolute peak, landing at an altitude of 4,800m and having dropped some 2,000m into the valley, freefalling in his wing suit for one-and-a-half minutes.

He officially conjured up the idea of the Seven Summit project in 2015 but is only now just making it public.

Rozov, though, began it, of sorts, in 2009 with a jump from Elbrus in Europe followed by one from Ulvetanna, in Antarctica, the following year.

In 2015, he leapt from Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, and last year took off from the 7,700m high Cho Oyu, Asia’s biggest suitable BASE-jumping peak.

“The idea of the Seven Summits project popped into my head right after my 2015 jump off Mount Kiliminjaro,” he explained. “So, I keep working on my idea to BASE jump from the highest points of all the seven continents. Every jump is, above all, a challenge to me.”

To complete the magnificent seven, Rozov still has BASE jumps to tackle in Australia and North America.

Base jump heights:

2009 — Elbrus / 4,650 m (Europe)

2010 — Ulvetanna / 2,650 m (Antarctica)

2015 — Kilimanjaro / 5,460 m (Africa)

2016 — Cho Oyu / 7,700 m (Asia)

2017 —Huascarán / 6,725 m (South America)

Discover more Valery Rozov content HERE.

Our friendly Club RRC team traveled to the Alps, to train and take part in races on the program SALOMON ZUGSPITZ ULTRATRAIL. http://zugspitz-ultratrail.com/

 It was a representative delegation of 37 participants and 4 trainers, among them were our renowned athletes, guides of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev and Denis Provalov.

 The official video  of  the event

 Artem Rostovtsev:  Strong guys started for 100 km, for the weak  ones organizers offered an option of 60 km, it is - just for me. I was able to get away from the guys who end up 4th and 5th places were taken, they have some problems with the downhill  running, what I took.

I watched the future winners of the first rise, then they disappeared into the woods. But I stood on the podium with these heroes.

Denis Provalov took a very honorable 8th place in the shorter race (about 40 km).

Generally  the Club RRC worthy of respect! All run, all suffered, all were happy!

Tatiana Kornilova returned from Malaysia where she climbed Mount Kinabalu (4095m), the path to which runs through the jungle of Borneo. Kinabalu - has the highest peak in South East Asia and in the island.

 Tatyana shared her photos

September 17th, 2015 at the cinema Moscow park "Krasnaya Presnya" will be held a special screening of the film Russia Today «Three and Kilimanjaro." The film tells the story of young people with disabilities, who are trying to do something that sometimes can not afford many perfectly healthy people - to conquer the highest African peak, moving on prostheses.

Pokhil'ko Sasha, Sasha Shulchev and Vanya Gorbatenko with volunteers of charities had five days to climb to an altitude of almost 6000 meters. To learn how they managed to do it, and to hear about all of the guys you could on September 17 at 19:00 at the Summer Cinema Park Krasnaya Presnya. Entrance to the show is free. After viewing it will be a meeting with authors and characters of the film.

Authors of the film: Artem Vorobey and Alexander Avilov.

In June, 2014, Alex D'Jamoos and Sasha Pohilko climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro on prosthetic legs. With 11 companions, representing four charities the team made the the six-day journey to the summit of Africa's tallest mountain. D'Jamoos and Pohilko received their prosthetic legs through the "I Want to Walk" program, which helps orphaned children get life-changing prostheses and make their first steps towards independent life. The trip was organized by Happy Families International Center to bring attention to people in need and challenge the conception of what it means to have a "disability".

Trailer

Full film

http://www.rt.com/news/191316-orphans-kilimanjaro-disabled-charity/

Terrifying, inspirational: RT documents

disabled orphans’ Kilimanjaro climb

Three former orphans with severe disabilities attempt to make the grueling ascent to Africa’s highest peak to help Russian orphanages, in a new RT documentary.

“We’re trying to prove the disabled can do something healthy people consider impossible,” said Aleksandr Pokhilko, a Moscow art student who has staged four exhibitions, despite being born with no hands, as well as no legs.

The three men who took on Kilimanjaro met when they were still teenagers in an orphanage near Moscow, after being given up by their parents as babies due to their severe medical conditions.

“Many kids brought up in orphanages lack willpower to receive a decent education and find a proper work. They grew up seeing the world as if through a small window. When they leave the orphanage, it’s as if they’ve come from another planet,” said Pokhilko.

The three men went their own separate ways as adults, with one, Ivan Gorbatenko, reuniting with his parents, and another Alex D'Jamoos, now a student at Texas University, after being adopted by an American family.

For them, it was not just a chance to do good, but also to renew bonds.

But as the men began the four-day 26 mile ascent to the Uhuru Peak, located 5,895 meters above sea level, reality refused to co-operate with the storybook narrative.

Within hours D'Jamoos, who has no legs and severely restricted hands, realized that it was too slippery to use his prosthetics. He simply bandaged his feet, and put boxing gloves over his fingers, using them to slowly hop up treacherous terrain. When he encountered rocks, he was forced to simply crawl.

Ivan Gorbatenko, who suffers from severe scoliosis, a curvature of the spine, developed a fever, and was diagnosed with bronchitis by the team doctor. He had to be driven to a hospital from Horombo Camp, 3720 meters above sea level, before being discharged.

“Of course, I am gutted. But if I had the chance to do this again, I would say no,” a dejected Gorbatenko told the RT crew.

For Pokhilko, the end to the journey also threatened heartbreak. At Gilman’s Point, less than 200 meters short of the summit, the local guides told him that they would not risk his health by ascending with him.

“I could almost see the finish line, but I was spent, and thought I might collapse right here on the mountain,” said Pokhilko.

But together with D’Jamoos, he managed to reach the top, though even though both admitted that they were “glad it was all over.”

“I did it for our friends who weren’t able to come to the end. I promised I would, and I did! I dedicate my ascent to all those who are insecure and look for their place in the world. All I can say is, have faith in yourselves!” said D’Jamoos.

The men raised thousands for charities on both sides of the Atlantic and after what for two of them was the second attempt to scale Kilimanjaro, and will now face new challenges. While, Pokhilko plans to pursue his ambitions as an artist, D’Jamoos, who has been a prominent activist for orphans’ causes, will carry on campaigning for disabled rights and opportunities in Russia.

In mid-June, the highest peak of North America Mount McKinley (Denali) was conquered by the Russians group composed of: Sergei Dmitriev, Irena Kharazova, Eugene Kravt and Alexander Utvenko. Today, Eugene sent us a selection of photos from the expedition. Mt.McKinley - it's really very, very beautiful place.

Thanks!

We once again congratulate the climbers!

Well done, definitely!

A Russian Sports team of members of our Club has just returned to civilization after a successful ascent to the highest peak of North America Mount McKinley (Denali). That means, that happy climbers Sergey Dmitriev, Irena Kharazova, Eugene Kraft and Alexander Utvenko arrived by small plane in Talkeetna. And Sergey has sent us a picture from the summit.

We warmly congratulate the heroes!
And by this ascent Sergey Dmitriev successfully completed the program Seven Summits! So double hurray for him!

Today Ludmila Korobeshko flew to Alaska. And tomorrow they have to meet in Anchorage. Ludmila go to the Mount McKinley (Denali) with a group of nine climbers.

Sergey Dmitriev (city of Samara 45 years) has already worked as a guide 7 Summits Club. It was in Antarctica.

On Everest 2014

Matterhorn

With a son on running event in Poland (with 7 Summit Club)

The 7 Summits Club

On April, 10th eleven mountaineers will start their expedition to the top of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8848 m). Professional guides will accompany the group, because most of the participants will climb the highest peak on Earth for the first time. Climbing fans will have a unique opportunity to watch the ascent which will form the basis of a documentary with a working title of “The gene of altitude, or how to summit Everest”.

Vlad Moroz on the summit of Ama Dablam with Mt. Everest behind (L)

TV producer Valdis Pelsh will join the expedition to lead a team of photographers to capture the trials of climbing the Northeast Ridge route to the top of Everest from the early stages of preparation near the base of the mountain, ascending to base camp, acclimatization at the various camps along the route through the final push to the top. The film will tell the story of the team’s conquest of Everest and any related rescue activity.

Modern technology will allow a complete video record of the climb. Each climber will have an action camera, so no interesting event will remain behind the scenes. Three cameramen, two of which are professional mountaineers, will focus on recording the climb. With a dedicated video team the expedition promises to deliver many unique shots, both beautiful and emotional, since each mountaineer will face several physical and psychological trials.

Expedition team members:

Alexander Abramov – mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the 7 Summits Club, expedition leader

Ivan Dusharin – mountaineer, Master of Sport, International Class, Snow Leopard title holder, vice-president of the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Vladislav Moroz – mountaineer, Master of Sport, director of the Red Fox company

Denis Provalov – speleologist and mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the Moscow Federation of Sporting Speleology. In 2013 he set a World record for altitude differential of 10,998 m, between climbing to the top of a mountain and then descending to an underground cave.

This expedition is organized with support of the 7 Summits Club and RD Studio.
Red Fox and Zamberlan are equipment partners of this Everest Expedition

We have already written about this wonderful book and noted that the author did exactly what he wanted. Well, the presentation was held in form, which, of course, was also pleasing to him. In the form of a meeting of friends!

Once again pay tribute to the author and his assistants: the book, in the form of the album, is 100% successful. This happen not often.

So, the presentation was held on Saturday 4 April at the Museum of Senkewich...

First of all there were author’s fellows from a trek to the South pole, just friends, also active members of the 7 summits Club: Dmitry Moskalev, Vladimir Lande and Yuri Taidakov. Andrey Belov represented the heroic crew of Il-76 linking the Antarctic base with the mainland.

In addition, Luba and Victor Nikolaevs were here, that all the well-known authorities in the field of mountaineering. And other nice and lovely people. The atmosphere was relaxed and informal, helped by the cozy atmosphere of the Museum and high quality alcohol.

There is no doubt that no one has to regret that visited the presentation. There was much that is so appreciated by the participants of the polar travel - human communication, not in extreme conditions. Everyone heard what they wanted to hear and could get autograph of the author on own copy.

In the spotlight was also the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov. He was being very busy with preparation a new Everest expedition, but managed to find the strength to make a short speech. Again, thanks to the alcohol, it proved to be relatively successful.

The 7 Summits Club also represented a world 7 summits record holder Lyudmila Korobeshko (Director of the Company) and professional polar Explorer, our manager Anastasia Kuznetsova.

This is Drambuie – a leading drink of polar explorers, Irina Klimova has taught us that wisdom with humor…

All expedition and presentation photos can be viewed in the large gallery of Jubilee expedition. All 226 pictures, which 46 are from the presentation, and are placed at the end.

http://www.7vershin.ru/photos/all/section_282/

Just a few days ago, a tireless traveler and scout of new volcanoes Vyacheslav Adrov made a successful ascent to the highest point of the Philippines - Mount Apo (2954m). Vyacheslav - a permanent member of expeditions of the 7 Summits Club. And that our Club have inspired him for theme of volcanoes.

Climbing through the jungle took two days. Then Vyacheslav went to meet whale sharks. Looking forward to what it will end ...

5 HIGHEST PEAKS 5 CONTINENTS – it is a new book with great pictures about Tuvan mountaineers climbing the highest peaks in Europe, Africa, the two Americas and Australia. The book contains chapters about the Moscow Club "7 Summits", Russian Expedition Everest 2012, about Fedor Konyukhov, Sagarmatha - Everest – Qomolungma about "diamond" anniversary of Mount Everest, on the unprecedented tragedy of Mount Everest in 2014. Also the author describes herein meeting members of the team with Vladimir Shataev, Arthur Testov, Sergey Bogomolov, Sergei Larin and other famous climbers of Russia; meeting with Sergei Samoilov, Sergei Kovalev, Ryszard Pavlovsky, Sherpa Mingma, Andrew Lock, Reinhold Messner. The Author of the book - Maadyr Khovalyg, he is not only the team leader, but also a leading Tuvan writer. And it was written on look like a climber and writer simultaneously . A team member Marianne Kyrgys translated book from Tuvan to Russian ..

We will be waiting for the book in Moscow!

Andrey Filkov sent us a message fromAustralia. On the day of his birth, he has successfully climbed to the top of Mount Kosciuszko, the highest in mainland Australia. Thus Andreн fulfilled the norm of the Seven Summits according to Kosciusko (Bass version). Active members of the 7 Summits Club Vladimir Doronin and Alexander Morozov were his partners in the ascent. Earlier, they both climbed the volcano Giluve.

http://7summits-club.com/members_of_club/all/member_1518/

Valery Rozov will act on the party of the 7 Summits Club, which will take place on October 24. He will tell about a record jump from slopes of Everest.

Interview on Red Bull site

I Knew I Would Live, Says Valery Rozov

By Josh Sampiero on 5 June 2013 in Features

Back from his epic jump off Everest, we catch up with the legendary Russian for the inside story.

Valery Rozov may have not jumped from the edge of space like Felix Baumgartner – but his BASE jump from Mt Everest was every bit as epic. Baumgartner also didn't have to worry about crashing into rocks straight after jumping...

When I landed, I was so tired. I felt sick. I didn't even really realize what had happened or what I did until we got back to base camp and began to relax. Then it started to sink in.

The hardest part is having to decide. Jump or don't jump. Is the air jumpable? Is it safe? The decision is definitely the hardest part.

I trained really hard. You have to get there and still be in shape to jump. It's a lot of physical work. I did a lot of technical work, too — because of the short drop and thin air — it's a very technical jump. It's so short, you really need to catch speed quickly.

We made a new suit. I wanted to have the flattest jump possible in such thin air. It's so short, and your body needs to catch the air and the speed. So we took the high-end model suit that I usually wear, and made modifications that would help with that. It took three or four seconds to get to the speed I needed to fly. That's when I knew I would live.

I look for spots like this. That's more of the challenge than the biggest mountain — finding the next new spot. Since my childhood I was a climber. Climbing is still my passion. I'm always interested to do something new.

The main summit of Everest is quite flat and therefore not possible to jump from. You'd need to build a ramp or something. We made the jump from the North Peak of Everest. I'm sure I set a new level for BASE jumpers.

I definitely used oxygen. It wasn't a climbing expedition. We used oxygen for a short time before the jump. I wanted to make a good decision about the safety – and more importantly, we needed to hurry to take advantage of weather, and acclimatization wasn't finished.

Climbers don't like wind. Wind is also not good for me. I don't like wind at all!

It's always very good to see your family and kids. That's the best part about coming home. And as for what's next? Summer in the Alps. And I've got a few ideas for next year, too.